US757542A - Hat-trimming machine. - Google Patents

Description

No. 757,542. PATBNTED APR. 19, 1904,

' P. G. GRAW.

HAT TRIMMING MACHINE.

Y APPLIGATION Hun AUG. 1o, 190s. No MODEL. n a sums-sum -1.

PATBNTBD KBB; '19,11904." i

No. 757,542. L

i F.U. GRAW, HAT TRIMMING MACHINE.

APPLIQATIoN FILED AUG, 1n, 1903.

' a SHEETS-SHEET 2.

N0 MDDBL.

' l NESSES. i lwf'faNToR,4 ffm. Q Wn W TH: foams persas co, momuwu, wmamu'rnm u, c.

PATENTE) APR, "19j-1904..

Armlehnen Hmm mfg. 1o. 1903.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

N0 MODEL WITNESSES.

1HE 'mams Farms co. mom-Lnmmwnsammcu, u. c,

Patented April 19, 1904.

PATENT OFrIcE.V

FRANKG. GRAW, OF SOUTH NORWALK, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF TO IVILLIAM N. GRAW,

N'EGTIGUT.

OF SOUTH NORWALK, GON- HAT-TRIMMING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming. part of Letters Patent No. 757,542, dated April 19, 1904. Application iled August 10, 1903. 'Serial No. 168,979. (No model.)

To all vwhom. it may concern:

Be it known that I, FRANK G. GRAW, a citizen of the United States, residing at South Norwalk, county Yof Fairfield, State of Gonnecticut, have invented a new and useful Hat-V Trimming Machine, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to certain improve.- ments in `machines for performing the operation variously 'known as trimmingg paring, or "planing the brims of curled hats It is one' of the objects ofthis invention to produce an automatic machine for this'purpose that will perform the operation while the hatsare still upon the matrices or blocks upon which they are curled, as in my former patent,`No. 707,392, dated Augustl), 1902.

A further object of the invention is to. produce a machine of the character described that shall be self-adjusting to heights of curl and sizes'of hat, shall be provided with a simple and convenient adjustment for determining the widths of curls, so called-that is, the width of the curl at the sides of the brimand with another equally simple adjustment for determining the styles of the curlsf so called-that is, the widths of the curls at the four quarters of the brim. Y

Afurther object of the invention is to simplify, cheapen, andto generally improve the construction and mode of operation of the entire machine.

i/Vith these and other objects in view the invention consists in certain constructions and in certain parts, improvements, and combinations, which will be hereinafter described and then specifically pointed out in the claims hereunto appended.

In the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification, Figure 1 in an elevation of the machine complete, the cutter being shown as operating at one side of a 'brim ter shown as operating at one end of a brim; I Fig. 3, a plan view, the hat-holder and hat be- -tached; and Fig. 8 comprises botha sectional elevation and a sectional plan view, the'latter being on the line 8 8 of the former, illustrating a form of cutter-carrier in which the cutter is carried by aspringinstead of beingrig-A vidly secured to the carrier.

10 denotes the framework as a whole, which may be of the ordinary or any preferred construction.

Power is applied to drive the machine by Vmeans of a belt (not shown) passing over a belt-pulley 11, running loose on a shaft 12, journaled in the framework and carrying a bevel-pinion 13, an eccentric disk 14, and a crank 15.` .The belt-pulley is connected to and disconnected from the shaft by means of a clutch 16. operated by means of a lever 17 in the present instance a bell-crank lever,

pivoted, as at 18, to a bracket 19, the freev end of which rests upon a treadle or foot-lever 20, the parts being shown as arranged so that by placing the `foot on the treadle and` pressing the front end 'down the clutch-lever is operated to connect the belt-pulley with the i shaft.

. 211denotes acurled hat on the matrix 22, on which it has been curled, which is secured to a carrying-shaft 23 by means of ani eXpansion-holder 24, which may be of any ordinary or preferred construction. TheY lower end of the carrying-shaft is provided with a bevel gear-wheel 25, which meshes with` bevel-pinion 13 and is journaledin a bearing 26 on the framework. Above the bearing is a universal joint 27 to permit the necessary movement of the upper end of the shaftY which carries the hats while being operated on. The upper bearing of the carrying-shaft is in a block 28, which is adapted to slide freely in a slot 29 in the framework. The brim of a hat While being operated upon is retained in engagement with'a bearing-rod 30, presently to be described, and which is rigidly but adjustably secured to the framework by means of fa spring 31, which bears against an oval plate 32, carried by shaft 23. The peripheral configuration of this plate corresponds substan- .tially With the ordinary oval of a hat-brim,

'- rigidly secured to a rock-shaft33, which is journaled in the framework and is provided with an arm 34, which extends'conveniently contiguous to the framework and is provided at its'free end with'a locking-button 35, which is adapted to engage a lug 75 on the framework to lock the shaft 'and the spring in the operative position.V In' removing a hat from the ca-rrying-shaft or placing a hat thereon lthe locking-button is oscillated to disengage the arm and-rock-shaft and permit the spring to swing .backward out of theway without pressure on the oval plate. As soon as a new hat has been secured .to the vcarrying-shaft vit is moved into position to be operated upon. Arm 34 is swung downward, as in Fig. 1, and is locked there by turning the locking-button into engagement with the lug, the spring a'cting to press the outer edge of the brim against the bearing-rod.

36 denotes the cutter-carrier; 37, the 'cutterarm, which is rigidly secured thereto, and 38 the cutter, which in Figs. 1, 2, and 3 is shown as rigidly secured tothe cutter-arm, as by a set-screw 39. In Fig. 8 I have illustrated a modification in which theJ cutter is secured in the-same manner to a block 40, which is rigidly secured to the arms 41 of a spring 42, which is itselfv pivoted, as at 76, to the rear end of the 'cutter-arm, the Atension of the spring being adjusted by a set-screw 77. In both forms the cutter-arm is provided with a slot 43, through which bearing-rod 30 passes freely. The cutter-carrier -is itself` carried by a` cross-head 44, adapted to reciprocatein a slot 45 in the top of the-framework. -The cutter carrier'in the present instance is shown as a round rod, although its shape is immaterial so far as the principleofthe in- Vention is concerned and 'is adapted'to reciprocate in a vertical openii1g46 in the crosshead. The cutter-arm reciprocates in a vertical slot 47 in the cross-head which leads'into the opening. When not invuse orwhen removing a trimmed hat and placing another in positionto be operated upon, thecutter-carrier is lifted up, so that the cutter-arm is free from slot 47 and also from the bearing-rod,

which normally passes through slot 43in the cutter-arm, afterl which the cutter-carrier is given a quarter-turn, more or less, backward, so that the cutter-arm will rest upon the top of vthe cross-head, as in dotted lines in Fig. 3, and vbe wholly out of the way. As soon as another' hat has been placed on the expansionholder in position to be operated upon the cutter-carrier is swung around. so that the cutter-arm will registery with slot' 47 and is thenallowed to'drop down to place, as in Figs. 1 and 2. It will -be noted that in use the eutter-arm rests upon the top of the curl and rises and falls freely in accordance with the riseand fall of the curl, it being wholly immaterial so far as the operation of the machine is concerned whether the curls are high, low, or medium, and changes may be made from one tothe other withoutmaking any changesA whatever in the adjustment of the machine. vIt will be noted, furthermore, that in use the outer edge of the curl is retained constantly in engagement with the bearingrod, it being therefore wholly immaterial so far as the operation of the machine is concerned whether the hats are large or small or of medium size or how often changes are made in the sizesv of the hats being operated upon, as no changes whatever are required in the adjustment of the machine. The path traveledby the cutter when the machine is in operation whereby both the width and the style of the curls is determined is regulated in the manner I willnow explain. Y j

48 denotes an operating-lever-in form an angle-lever-one end of which is pivoted to the'cros's-head, as at 49. The other end of the operating-lever is adapted to slide. freely through a block 50, which is itself pivoted to the upper end of a slide'51, adapted to reciprocate in A guides 52 on -the framework. This slide is operated'by means of a link 53, one end of which is pivoted to crank 15 and the other to the slide,'as at 54. @An important feature of this operating-lever is that it is provided with a variable or shifting fulcrum--in the present instance a block 55- through which the lever slides freely and which is pivoted to a slide 56, adapted toreciprocate in a guide 57 on the framework. I have shown the block' as pivoted, as at 60, between arms .58, extending from the slide, although it will of course be understood that the special details of construction and arrangement are not of the essence-of the invention. 61 denotes an adjustable eccentric-rod, the the upper end of which is pivoted tov slide 56. This eccentric-rodis shown as made telescopic, one part sliding within the other, and as locked in position after adjustment by a set-screw 62 in a collar 63 at the upper end of the tubular portion of the rod. Attached toA the lower end of the eccentric-rod is an ec 'centric-strap 64, which incloses eccentric disk IOO as lying in agroove 65 in the periphery of the disk.

The adjustment for different widths of curls-that is, width of curls at the sides of `the brims-is effected by means of the setscrew 62. This adjustment is made when the crank is up, as in Fig. V1, as at that time the hat is in position for the cutter to operate upon the side of the curl. When the parts are in this position, set-screw 62 is loosened and slide 56 is moved up or down, as may be required, the operating-lever sliding freely at all times through blocks 50 and 55 and one part of the eccentric-rod sliding within the other. If the eccentric-rod is shortened and slide 56 moved downward, the fulcrum of the operating-lever will be' lowered, thereby increasing the throw of the cross-head, and a wider curl will result, as the cutter will be moved farther toward the left as seen in Fig. 1 at the sides of the curl. If the eccentricrod is lengthened,the fulcrum of the operatinglever is raised, thereby decreasing the throw of the cross-head, and arnarrower curl will result. For convenience in making this ad- Y justment where thewidth of. curl required is known I provide a scale 73 on the top of the framework (see Fig. 3) and a corresponding point 7 t on the cross-head. The scale may in! practice be graduated to sixteenths of an inch.

quired, until the cutter is in position to trimv to the desired width of curl at' the sides of the brim without regard to the scale. Therule is, in brief, to shorten the eccentric-rod, there-l by increasing the throw of the cross-head when wider curls are required, and to lengthen the eccentric-rod, thereby decreasing the throw of the cross-head when narrower curls are required, the adjustment being always made when the crank is up.'

The operation of the eccentric disk isa vitally-im portant part of the present invention, as its adjustment varies the position of the i fulcrum of the operating-lever and determines what I have termed the style ofthe curlthat is, the width of theicurl at the four quarters as distinguished from its width at the sides. In order to avoid the possibility of confusion, I will again explain that the term width as applied to the curl of a hat-brim in this specication means the width of the curl at the sides of the brim, and the term style as applied to the curl of a hat-brim has reference to the width of the curl at the quarters of the brim. A with a central transverse slot 66, which re- The disk is shown as providedceivesY the attenedportion 67 of a hub 68," which -is rigidly secured to shaft 12. Upon the face of the disk I provide a scale 69, which .may for convenience be a double scale and maybe graduated, for example, from 1 to 7o 20, each numeral corresponding Vto an arbitrary style of curl. For example, the nu- 4merel 10 maycorrespond to a medium style of curl-that is, a curl of medium widthas, for example, three-eighths of an inch at the 7 5 quarters. Thenumerals -above 10 in the arrangement of scale illustrated correspond to varying styles of curls all having relatively wide or full quarters, the style having the extreme widest quarters of all being designated 8c bythe numeral 20. The'numerals below 10 in the arrangementV of'scale illustrated correspond to different arbitrary styles of curls each of which is of less than medium width at the quarters, thestyle having the extreme 8 5 understood from the above that the eccentricity'of disklt relative to shaft 12 determines the variationof the fulcrum of the operating-lever, and consequently the style of l the curl. To produce what is termed a medium, style-that is, curls having avmedium roc width at the quarters-no variation of the fulcrum of the operating-lever is required, and consequently no eccentricity whatever of the disk, said disk being set concentric with the shaft, to effect which adjustment the nut is fc5 loosened and the disk moved in either direction on the shaft until points 71 register with the numeral 10 in the scale. The changes in style may be made in just as small fractions j of an' inch as may be necessary to meet the 11o requirements of the trade, it being understood that each numeral in the scale corresponds to an arbitrarily-fixed style of curl. If the desired style calls for relatively narrow quarters, thenut is loosened, and if the crank is down, as in Fig. 2, the disk is moved up until points 71 register with the numerals in the scale representing the desired Ystyle of curl. If wider orfuller quarters are desired,

the disk is moved in the oppositeA direction-v r zo that is, down if the crank is down. It is Wholly unnecessary, however, lto vplace the crank in any` special position for the purpose of making this adjustment, With the arrangement of scale illustrated in the'drawings if I2 wider or fuller quarters are required the disk is moved in the direction of the crank. If narrower quarters are required, it is moved in the opposite direction. Pinion 13 and gearwheel 25 bear the relation to each other of one 13.0

The end of part 9o the style of the curl. As already stated, when the disk is .set concentrically on the yshaft there will be no variation ofthe fulcrum of the operating-lever, and the curl will be trimmed with medium quarters without regard to the width-of the curl... Suppose now that without change in the width of the curl fuller quarters lare desired. .The operator loosens nut 72 and moves the eccentric disk in the direction of the crank so that points 71 register with numerals in the scale above 10. Themechanical effect of setting disk 14 eccentricallyon the shaft is to cause a variation in the fulcrum of the operati ng-lever-- that is,1 a movement of said fulcrumin each direction during each rotation of the shaft. When the eccentric .disk is .set to lproduce fuller quarters,` slide 56, upon which the operating-lever is fulcrumecLmoves upward with the .crank and slide 51, which actuates the operating-lever. This adjustment is effective at the quarters of theP curl only, for the, reason thatwhile the fulcrum of the operating-lever is at the same position as beforeat the sides of the curl owing to the adjustment of. the eccentric disk the variable fulcrum will. be lower than before at the quarters and will consequently increase the throw of the crosshead while each of the quartersfis being operated upon by the cutter. In Fig. 1 Ihave illustrated the opposite adjustment-of the eccenthan medium quarters. `With this adjustment slide 56 will move downward whilethe crank and slidel are moving upward, theresult being that at the,- quarters the ,variable fulcrum of thev operating-lever will be higher than before, and consequently the throw of the `cross-head will be lessened when the quarters are .being operated upon., In Fig. 2 I have illustrated a position of the parts when the end of a curl is being. trimmed. This position is ordinarily the same, the, brim being trimmed to a one-sixteenth curl at, the ends. Should a wider curl, however, be required at the ends. which is unusual, it can be obtained by moving bearing-rod 30A toward theright as seen in Fig. 2. To do this, the operator simply loosens the nut 78, by-.which it is locked in place, adjusts the bearing-rod as required, and tightensup the nut again.` It should be noted that thegoperating-lever is so shaped that at the instant either end of a curl. is being trimmed :the portion, of said lever at Which "claim-- l the fulcrum is located will lie parallel with slide 56 and the cross-head will lie at its normal, position. l

The operation of the machine as a Whole has already beenso fully described as to hardly require further explanation. In placing hats onvthe machine or removing them therefrom the cutter-carrier is lifted and the cutter-arm and cutter turned .backward out of the way and locking-button 35 is turned backward to 4release arm .34- and the spring which bears against the oval plate. The operator then yloosens the expansion-holderand removes the matrix andtrimrned hat, from the machine.

vAnother matrix with an untrimmed-hat thereon may then be attached tothe carrying- -shaft by means of the expansion-holder. Sup- Iposing of course that the two adjustments for width and style of brimhave been made, the operator simply drops thecutter-carrier to place, turnsthe locking-button into position to cause spring 31 to bear against theoval plate, and Vthen places hisv foot on the treadle, which causesthe clutch to connect the driving-pulley with shaft 12.

jHaving .thus described my invention, ,I

,. l.1. In--a machine ofthe character described the combination with means fory rotating a 'curled hat and means for retaining the-.hat in position to be operated upon, of a verticallymovable cutter-arm adapted to rest upon the .top of the curl, and. means forautomatically moving thehat-- laterally toward and fromthe icutter.

vthe hat laterally toward and'from the cutter. tricdisk-that is, an adjustment to trimless 3.' In a machine .of the character described the combinationwith a matrix andra shaft by lwhich it is carried, .ofa cutter, a verticallymovable cutter-arm by which it is carried and which is adaptedv to restupon the. top of .the

-curl vof a hat on the matrix'and a ybearing-rod which is engaged by the outer edge'of .the

brim of. -a hat on the matrix.

4. In a machine of the character. described the combination with a matrix and a shaft by ,the combination withga matrix, .ashaft by which it is carried and an oval plate secured to said shaft with its long diameter at right angles to the long diameter of the matrix, of a cutter, an arm` by which itis carried and `which is adapted to rest upon the top of the IOO IOS

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curl of a hat on the matrix,V a` bearing-rod and the combination with a matrix, a shaft by which it is carried and an oval plate secured to said shaft. with its long diameter at right angles to the long diameter of the matrix, of a cutter, an arm by which it is carried and which v is adapted to rest upon the top of a curl of a hat on the matrix, a bearing-rod, a spring engaging the oval plate, a rock-shaft by which it iscarried and means for locking the rockshaft with the spring in operative position, whereby the pressure of the edge of a `hatbrim on the bearing-rod is equalized 'and the action of the spring may be entirely relieved. 7 In a machine of the character described the combination with a matrix, a shaft by which it is carried and a cutter, 'of an adjustable bearing-rod and means for retaining the edge of the brim of a hat on the matrix in engagement with said bearing-rod.

8. In a machine of the character described l the combination with a matrix and ashaft by which it is carried, of averticallymovable cutter-carrier having an arm to which the cutter is attached and which is adapted to rest on the brim of a hat on the matrix, means for automatically moving thehat laterally relatively to the cutter, and a reciprocating cross-head which carries the cutter-carrier.

9. In a machine of the character described the combination with a/rotating hat-holder and means foi` retaininga hat thereon in position to be operated upon, of a reciprocating crosshead, a cutter anda carrier therefor which is vertically movable in the cross head, and means for automatically moving the hat laterally relatively to the cutter.

10. In a machine of the character described ing a slot 29 and a block adapted to move in said slot, of a matrix, a universally-jointed shaft by which it is carried, said shaft being journaled in the block and carrying an oval plate at right angles to the matrix, a bearing-rod and a spring engaging the oval platel whereby the edge of the brim of a hat on` the matrix 'is retained in engagement with the bearing-rod.

- 12. In a machine of the character described the combination with a matrix and a shaft by which. it isp carried, of a bearing-rod, means for retaining the edge of the brim of a hat on the matrix in engagement with the bearingl rod, a cutter, a cutter-arm therefor which is provided with a slot throughwhich the bearing-rod passes and a vertically-movable cutterc arrierto which the cutter-arm is secured.

13. In amachine of the character described the combination with a matrix and a shaft by which 1t is carried, of a bearing-rod, means for matrix in engagement with "the bearing-rod, a cutter, a cutter-arm therefor which' is provided with a slot through which the bearingrod passes, a cutter-carrier to which the cutterarm is secured and a cross-head having an openf ing and slot to receive the cutter-carrier and cutter-arm, so that the cutter-carrier maybe lifted and the cutter-arm raised above.- the bearing-rod and allowedto rest on the top of the cross-head to retain the cutter out of operative position. n

14. 'In a machine of the character described the combination with a hat-holder and means for retaining a hat thereon in position to be operated upon, of a reciprocating cross-head, a vertically-movable cutter carried thereby, means `for'automatically moving the hat latretaining the. edge of the brim of a hat on the y erally relatively to the cutter, and means forA adjusting the throw of the cross-head when the sides of abrim are in position-to be operated upon, whereby the width of the curl is determined. ,y

15. Ina machine of the character described the combination witha hat-holder and means j for retaining a hat thereon in position to be l operated upon, cfa reciprocating 'cross-head,

a vertically-movable cutter carried thereby,

'means' for automatically moving the hat laterally relatively tothe cutter, and means for ,adjusting the throw of the cross-head when the quarters of a brim areV in position to be operated upon,` whereby the style of the curl f is determined.

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16. In a machine of the character described the combination with a hat-holder and a cutter, of a cross-head, an operating angle-lever pivoted thereto, a slide 56 on which the operating-lever has its fulcrum, said fulcrum shifting as the slide moves up and down, and a slide 51 with which the opposite end of the operating-lever has Va sliding connection.

17; In a machine ofthecharacter described the combination with a hat-holder and a cutter, of a cross-head, anloperating angle-lever pivoted thereto, a slide 56 with which the operating-lever has sliding connection, said sliding connection serving as' the fulcru'm of the lever, a slide 51 anda block pivotedto said IIO ing connection, a rotating disk, a strap in'- closing said disk andan' adjustable rod connectingsaid strap with slide 56 whereby said slidemay be raised or lowered thereby varying the fulcrum of the operating-lever, changing the throw of the cross-head and determining the width of the curl of a hat-brim at the sides.

19. In a machine of the character described the combination with a hat-holder and a cutter, of a cross-head,l an operating-lever pivoted thereto, a slide 56 on which the operatinglever has its fulcrum, said fulcrum varying with the vmovement of the slide, a slide 51 with which the opposite end of the lever has sliding connection, a rotating disk, means for adjusting said disk eccentrically and a strap and .rod connecting 'said Vdisk with' slide 56,

- whereby said slide may be raised or lowered thereby varying the fulcrum of the operatinglever at the periods of time when the quarters of a hat-brim are in position to be acted onv by the cutter. 1

20. In a machine of the character described the combination with a hat-holder and a cutter, of a cross-head, an operating-lever pivoted thereto, slides 51 and 56 with which the operating-lever has sliding connection, said slide 56 serving as the fulcrum of the lever and said fulcrum shifting with the movements of the slide and means for adjusting said slide without shifting of the fulcrum'when it is desired to change the width of a curl at the sides without change at the quarters.

21. In a machine of the character described the combination with a hat-holder and a cutter, of a cross-head, an operating-lever pivot-- ed thereto, slides 51 and 56 with which the operating-lever has sliding connection, said slide 56 serving as a fulcrum for the lever and said fulcrum shifting with the movements of the slide and means for adjusting the movements of the slide, whereby the fulcrum of the operating-lever is shifted and the throw of the cross-head regulated when the quarters of va hat-brim are in position to be operated upon. 22. In a machine ofthe character, described the combination with a hat-holder and a cutter, of a cross-head. an operating-lever pivoted thereto, slides 51 and 56 with which the operating-lever has sliding connection, said slide 56 serving as a fulcrum for the lever and said fulcrum shifting with themovements of the slide, shaft 12, a disk on said shaft, means for adjusting said disk eccentrically thereto in either direction and a strap and rod connecting said disk with slide 56, whereby said slide may be caused to move either'with or in reverse to slide 51 thereby varying the position of the fulcrnm, substantially as shown, for the purpose specified.

23. In a machine of the character described the combination with a hat-holder and a cut-l ter, of a cross-head, an operating-lever pivoted thereto, slides 51 and 56 with which the oplocking'the disk at any desired eccentricity to the shaft and a strap and rodconnecting the disk with slide 56 whereby the fulcrum of the operating-lever may be varied to change the throw ofv the 'cross-head in accordance with the sca-le on the disk.

24. In a machine of the character described the combination withv framework having a scale 7 3, a hat-holder and a cutter, of a crosshead having a point adapted to register with the scaleto Idetermine width of curl, an operating-lever pivoted to the cross-head, slides 51 and 56 with which the operating-lever has sliding connection', said slide' 56 serving as a variable fulcrum for the 'operating-lever and means for adjusting the throw of slide 56 and consequently'of the cross-head in accordance with thescale.

25. In a machine of the character described the combination with a hat-holder and a reciprocating cross-head, of a cutter, a'cutterlarm to which it is secured, a cutter-carrier vertically movable ,in the cross-head to which the cutter-arm is secured, and means for automatically moving the hat laterally relatively to the cutter.

26. In a machine of the character described the combination with a hat-holder and a reciprocating cross-head, of a cutter, a spring by which it is carried, a cutter-arm to which the spring is attached and a cutter-carrier vertically movable in the cross-head to which the cutter-arm is secured.

27. In a machine of the character described` the'combination with a hat-holder, a reciprocating cross-head and a bearing-rod, of a cutter, a spring by which it is carried, a cutter-arm to which the spring is attached, said cutter-arm and spring being slotted to permit the bearing-rod to pass therethrough and a cutter-carrier vertically movable in the cross-head to which the cutter-arm is secured.

28. In a machine of the character described the combination with a hat-holder and a cutter,

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of a cross-head, an operating angle-lever pivoted thereto, slides 51 and 56, blocks pivoted to said 'slides through which the operating-lever 'slides freely, said slide 56 serving as a variable fulcrum Jfor the lever, a shaft, a disk eccentrically adjustable thereon and a strap and rod connecting said disk with slide 56, the parts being so combined and arranged that when the eccentric is adjusted in one direction said slides will move upward simultaneously and when the disk is adj usted in the opposite direction slide 56,. which is the fulcrum of the operating-lever, will move downward when slide 51 is moving upward.

thereto, slides l and 56 with which the op-V erating-lever has sliding connection, said slide 56 serving as a variable fulcrum for the lever, a shaft having a crank by which slide 5l is operated and a disk eccentrically adjustable thereon and connections by which slide 56 is operated, the parts being so combined and arranged that when the disk is adjusted in the direction of the crank, the slides will move upward together thereby varying the fulcrum of the operating-lever and the throw of the cross-head to produce fuller quarters, and when the disk is adjusted in they opposite direction slide 56 will move downward as slide 51 moves upward thereby varying the fulcrum of the operating-lever and the throw of the cross-head to produce narrower quarters.

30. In a machine of the character described the combination with a hat-holder and a cutter, of a cross-head, an operating-lever pivoted thereto, slides 5l and 56 with which the operating-lever has sliding connection, said slide 56 serving as a variable fulcrum for the lever, a shaft, a disk carried thereby, means for adjusting said disk on the shaft and a strap and adjustable rod connecting said disk with slide 56, adjustment of said disk on theshaft acting to vary the fulcrum of the operating-lever in use and consequently the throw of the cross-head, whereby the quarters of a curl may be made fuller or narrower without change of Width at the sides and adjustment or' the connecting-rod acting to raise or lower the fulcrum of the operating-lever but with# out variation in use whereby the' sides of a curl may be made Wider or narrower without change at the quarters.

31. In a machine of the character described the combination with a hat-holder and a cutter,

oi' a cross-head, an operating-lever pivoted Y thereto, slides 51 and 56 with which the operating-lever has sliding connection, said slide 56 serving as a variable ulcrum for the lever, ashaft having a crank and connection by which slide 51 is operated and a disk eccentrically adjustable thereon anda strap andadjustable connecting-rod by which slide 56 is operated, whereby the fulcrum of the operating-lever may be adjusted to produce a curl having wider or narrower sides or wider or narrower quarters or both sides and quarters may be varied simultaneously.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature inpr'esence of two witnesses.

y .FRA-NKY C. GRAW.

Witnesses:

A. M; WoosTER, S. W. ATHERTON.

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