US710612A - Shoe-sewing machine. - Google Patents

Description

N0. 7|0,6|2. Patented Det. 7, |902.`

E. P. RICHARDSON. s'HoE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application led June '21, 1900. Renewed Jui. 20, 1902.)

7 Shee-ts-Sheat l.

(lo Model.)

THE Nams Perses co., Frama-wma, wAsnmvGYoN. D. cv

SHOE SEWING MACHINE;

(Appl'zation led June 21., 1900. Renewed Jan. 20, 1902.)

(No Model.) 7 Sheets-Sheet 2.

4TN: Hemus 'persas wncrroLrHo.. wAsNgmmm. n. c.

H0. 7|0,6|2. Patented Oct. 7, |902.

E. P. RICHARDSON.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE,

(Application filed June 21, 1900. v Renewed Jan. 20, 1902,)

'am mmm 7 sheets-sheet s.

@ lidi/ENTE@ 1HE Nonms PEYEHS nu, PHcraLnHoJvwAsHmsroN, u, c.

Nn. 7|u,6|2. Patented ont. 7, |902. E. P. mcHAnnsoN.

s'HoE sewms MACHINE.

(Applextion led June 21, 1900. Renewed Jan'. 20,l 1902.)

(un maar.) `1 sheen-sheet 4. I

m: Nonmycrnm cov. Pnomumo.. wwpmon, p. c.

Patented Oct. 7, [902.

7 Sheets-Sheet 5.

(No Model.)

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L N m 0H SC DA DnMA A HM Cm RE DMS EH S W. 6 m 7 nm N (Application filed June 21, 1900. Renewed Jan. 20, 1902.)

.7 Sheets-Sheet 6.

(No Model.)

UNTTnn STAT-ns PATENT OFFICE.

EVERETT P. RICHARDSON, OF LAWRENCE, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF TO JOHN H. RICHARDSON, TRUSTEE, OF LAVRENCE,

MASSACHUSETTS.

SHOE-SEWING MACHINE.

srncrrrcn'rrcn ferm'mg pel-t ef Letters Patent Ne. 710,612, dated october '7, 1902. Application led June 2l, 1900, Renewed January 20, 1902. Serial No. 90,475. (No inodel.)

l'b c/,ZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that 1, Evnnn'rr P. RICHARD- SON, of Lawrence, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Shoe-Sewing Machines, of which the following is a specification. l

This invention has relation to machines for sewing solesto the uppers of boots and shoes, being more particularly related to that class known as McKay sewing machines, in which the needle penetrates the sole and enters the interior of the shoe and a horn is introduced into the shoe to support the latter and to carry the complemental sewing mechanism which coperates with the needle in forming the stitches.

The object to be attained by the invention is the provisionof improved mechanism-for automatically varying the length of the loops of the stitches in accordance with the variation in thickness of the work-ft'. e., the layers of material constituting the sole, the edges of the upper, and the insole. In the machines of this class as heretofore constructed the mechanism has not only been large, and therefore occupied considerable space, but the movements thereof havebeen such as to jar or vibrate the whole machine. Consequently a further object of the invention is the improvement and simplification of machines of the class referred to in numerous respects for rendering them more compact, permitting the easy running thereof, and enhancing the efciency thereof.

The manner in which I achieve the objects specified and in what the inventionconsists will be hereinafter fully set forth, it being sufficient for all general purposes to here state that the invention consists of a sewing-ma chine possessing certain features or characteristics of construction' and arrangement of parts as illustrated upon the accompanying drawings, described in the following specification, and particularized in the appended claims. I desire to have it understood, however, that I am in no Wise limited to the particular mechanism which I have seen fit to illustrate and describe, although said mechanism is the best embodiment of the inven vand 3.

A tion now knownto me, for itwill be apparent to those skilled in the art that the said mechanism may be Varied in numerous Ways without departing from the spirit and scope 'of the said invention.

Referring to the said drawings, Figure 1 represents in side elevation a machine embodying the invention. Fig. 2 represents a side elevation of the upper portion of the machine, which is mounted orsecured to the head. Fig. 3 is a view of the same through the other side. Fig. at represents a front end elevation of the mechanism shown in Figs. 2 Fig. 5 represents another View of the same with the parts in different positions. Fig. 6 is a perspective view of the front end of the machine. Figs. 7' and S show the operation of the mechanism for varying the position of the variable fulcrum for the needlebar. Fig. 9 shows the sleeve or collar on the needle-bar. Figs. 10 and 11 represent a portion ofthe mechanism utilized for the automatic locking of the presser-foot. Fig. 12 represents a rear elevation of the upper portion of the machine, some of the parts being in section. Figs. 13, 14, and 15 illustrate a portion ofthe mechanism for starting and stopping the machine. Fig. 16 represents an enlarged section on the line 19 19 of Fig. 1. Fig. 17 represents an enlarged lsection on the line 2l) 20 of Fig. 1. Fig. 1S shows in section lthe friction device which engages the needlebar.

Referring to the drawings, 1 indicates a standard having a suitable base 2, the upper portion of the standard being'bent rearwardly and then forwardly and dattened to receive the base-plate 3 of ahead which is bolted or otherwise secured-thereon. In the front of the standard provision isl made for the reception ofa rotatable horn 4, in which'is mounted the usualflooper mechanism and other devices ordinarily supported therein. I shall not attempt to describefthe mechanism adjacent the horn more than tostateY that the driven parts are operated from a shaft 5, eX-

tending through the standard, as clearlyA plate 3 and the uprights 6 and 7, in which IOC there is journaled the power or needle-driving shaft 8, said shaft projecting rearwardly 'to receive the loosely-mounted pul1ey'9.

Power is transmitted to said pulley by a belt 10, passing around a pulley 12, rigidly secured to a shaft 13, journaled in arms 14 15, rising vertically from a bracket 16, secured to the base 2 of the standard. Clutching mechanisms are inserted between the pulley 9 and the shaft 8 and the pulley 12 and the shaft 13, and I shall lirst describe the clutching mechanism on the shaft 13.

Referring more particularly to Figs. 1 and 16, it will be noted that the shaft 13 is longitudinally movable in the bearings afforded by the arms 14 and 15 and that the pulley 12 is rigidly secured by a screw to the shaft. Loosely mounted on the shaft are two beltpulleys 16 17, to which power is transmitted from a shaft 18 by belts 19 2O and belt-pulleys 21 22 on said shaft 18. The two belts 19 20 travel in the same direction; but the beltpulley 21 is much larger in diameter than that indicated at 22, so that when the pulley 16 is clutched to the shaft 13 the latter is rotated at much higher speed than when the pulley 17 is clutched thereto. To the outer faces of the pulleys 16 and 17 there are secured dish-shaped friction members 23 24, respectively, withwhich friction members 25 26 may be engaged, according to the location of the shaft 13. The operative portions of the friction members 25 26 are shod with suitable friction material, and said members are rigidly secured to the shaft, so that by moving the shaft to the right in Fig. 16 the friction member 25 will be engaged with the member 23, and if moved in the other direction the friction member 26 will be engaged with the member 24. The friction members may be constructed in other ways, if desired, although for ordinary purposesI find the form illustrated and described to be suitable.

Between the friction members 25 and 23 I provide a comparatively strong spring 27, the ends of which bear against the member 25 and the middle portion of which bears against the member 23. This spring tends to hold the members 26 and 24 in frictional engagement, and in order to overcome the tension of the spring for engaging the members 25 and 23 there is provided a bell-crank lever 28, fulcrumed on a stud 29, projecting from the arm 14. On its upwardly-projecting end the bell-crank is equipped with a stud on which is journaled a frusto-conical idler 290,

adapted to be moved into engagement with the beveled face of a ring 30, secured upon the hub of the pulley 12 to move said pulley and the shaft 13 longitudinally of the axis of said shaft. The bell-crank lever is normally held in an inoperative position by a spring 31, (see Fig. 17;) but it may be thrown into operative position by foot-operated devices, including a foot-lever or treadle 32, a rod 33, and a clip 34, adjustably secured to said rod by a set-screw 35. The treadle 32 is fulcrumed upon a stud 36, projecting from the arm 15. The treadle may be depressed to a considerable extent without swinging the bell-crank 28 far enough to frictionally engage the fast-moving pulley with the shaft 13, since the rod and lever are utilized for the purpose of starting the machine, as will be described. I provide relatively fast and slow moving pulleys, so that I may secure a variable speed in sewing. Hence when sewing around the toe or heel the sewing mechanism will be actuated slowly, and while sewing along the shank or side I may throw the high-speed pulley into engagement with the shaft 18, so as to cause the rapid actuation of the sewing mechanism at such time.

The two pulleys 16 and 17 rotate at different predetermined speeds, whereby the sewing mechanism is likewise actuated at dilTerent speeds, according to the portion of the shoe being stitched. This I regard as an important feature of the invention, since it enables the operator to note to a certainty the speed at which the mechanism is operating, thereby permitting him to guide the shoe accordingly, whether sewing at the toe or along the sides. It likewise permits the operator to change the speed of the machine instantly from slow to fast, and vice versa, during a single stitch with a knowledge of the speed to be thus instantly attained without considering the movement or inertia of the-moving parts or waiting for the speed to change gradually, as where the ordinary speed mechanism is employed.

The rod 33 is pivoted at its lower end (see Fig. 17) to the treadle 32 by a. bolt 361, and at its upper end it is formed with a head 37, as shown in Figs. 3, 13, and 14, which is utilized in the starting and stopping mechanism, which I shall now proceed to describe.

On the shaft 8 and adjacent the pulley 9 is rigidly secured a disk 38, to which a pawl 39 is fulcrumed by a stud 40. (See Fig. 12.) The pawl overhangs a ratchet-wheel 41, rigidly connected with the pulley 9, and therefore loosely revoluble about the shaft 8. The pawl 39 is adapted to be drawn normally into engagement with the ratchet by a spring 42, having one end connectedv to the end of the pawl and the other end attached to a screw 43. The other end of the pawl is projected a short distance beyond the periphery of the disk 38, whereby it is adapted to be engaged by a pin 44, projecting from a stud 45 in the end of an elbow-lever 46, fulcrumed on a pin 47, projecting from a lug 48 on the standard 1. One arm of the elbow-lever projects upwardly and the other forwardly at right angles thereto, being provided with a notched clip 49, with which the head 37 may be engaged. The said head 37 is provided with two shoulders which are separated, so that when the treadle 32 is operated the elbow-lever is likewise actuated; but there is a certain amount of lost motion between the head 37 and the clip 49. This lost motion IOO IIO

permits the treadle to be depressed to throw in or out the fast-speed pulley without releasing the elbow-lever, as will be explained. A spring 50 (see Fig. 3) is utilized to hold the pin 44 normally in the path of the end of the pawl 39. As long as the treadle is undepressed the pin 44 remains in engagement with the end of the pawl and holds it free from the ratchet 4l, whereby the pulley 9 rotates without causing the rotation of the shaft 8. vWhen the treadle is depressed, the pin 44 is moved axially of the shaft 8 to release the pawl and permit it to engage the ratchet 4l. The elbow-lever 46 is adapted to be held in an inoperative position by a locking-pawl 5l, pivoted upon a stud 52, and drawn into engagement with the clip 49 when the latter is depressed by a spring 53. Said pawl is provided with a pin 54, with which a cam edge 55 on the head 37 engages when the rod rises and releases the pawl from the clip 49 to permit the pin 44 to return to its operative position under the impulse of the spring 50. In addition to the pin 44 the elbow-lever carries a spring-tensioned stop adapted to stop the rotation of the shaft 8. Said stop is indicated at 56, and it has a downwardly-projecting spring-arm 57, which tapers toward its end. The said end is held between two pins 5S, extendinginto the upwardly-projecting arm of the elbow-lever 46. Said stop 56 when the said elbow-lever is in operative position extends into the path of a stop on a disk 59, said stop being formed by cutting away said disk, so as to leave a shoulder 58X. (See Fig. l5.) When the shoulder 58 engages the stop 56, the jar and the reaction are both taken up by the spring-arm 57. XVith this description it will be seen that at the instant the pulley 9 is unclutched on the shaft 8 the said shaft is stopped from rotation and that said shaft will be stopped after each rotation unless the foot-treadle be depressed.

The separation of the shoulders on the head 37 permits the head to rise while the lever is locked by the pawl 5l until the latter is thrown out by the pin 54, and hence the elbow is released very rapidly, and it quickly snaps into position in time to stop the machine at the completion of the stitch.

I propose to now describe the presser-foot, which is automatically adjusted according to the thickness of the work, and the mechanism for automatically locking said presser-foot after it has been adjusted. Said presser-foot is indicated at 60 and is located above the end of the horn 4 and a little to one side of the axis of rotation thereof. Said presserfoot is adjustably secured to a verticallymovable bar 6l, which has a downwardly and laterally projecting finger 62. The presserfoot is pivoted upon a stud 63 and is adapted to be held at any desired adjustment by a set-screw 64. (SeeFigsZ and 4,) The bar 6l projects vertically upward, and it is mounted in guides, being provided at its upper end with a slot 65, through which a screw-pin 66 passes into a bracket 67, boltedat the top of the upright 6. The lower end of said bar is guided by a danged plate 68, affixed to the side of the base-plate. An adjusting-screw 69 (see 1fig. 4) is passed downwardly through the top end of the bar 6l, and its end rests upon the pin 66 when the presser-foot is in its lowermost position. Near the bed-plate the bar 61 is formed with a shoulder 70, and to the side of the bar above the shoulder there is secured a clip 7l, having a shoulder confronting that at 70. Between the shoulders there is a space afforded for the reception of a pin 72,103 means of which the presserfoot may be raised or lowered or locked in position, as the case may be. The said pin 72 projects forwardly from an arm 73, which is rigidly secured to a shaft 74, journaled in bearings afforded by the uprights of the head. There is a spring 75 coiled around the shaft 74, with one end secured toacollar76, afxed to the shaft by a set-screw 77, and with the other end resting against the top of the bedplate 3, and said spring normally holds the presser-foot downward, so as to rest upon the sole of the shoe on the horn. Said spring, however, is not so strong but that it permits the presser-foot to rise and fall according to the thickness of the work as the latter is fed along, so as to always rest upon the top of the sole. The arm 73, from which the pin 72 projects, has a projection 7S in the path of a lever 79, centrally fulcrumed upon a stud 8O and having' its rear end connected by a rod Sl to a treadle S2, fulcrumed upon the stud IOO 36, which projects through the upright l5 at the base of the machine. Nhen the operative depresses the said treadle 82, the presserfoot is raised to permit the insertion of the shoe upon the horn.

The mechanism for automatically locking the presser-foot after the feeding of the shoe comprises au arm S3, the hub 84 of which is rigidly secured to the shaft 74. On its end the arm has a segmental extension 85, as shown in Figs. 5 and l0. Loosely mounted on the shaft 74 is a lever having two arms 86 S7, the latter being substantially parallel to the bed-plate and being held down bya spring SS, coiled around a piu S9, passed loosely through the arm into the bed-plate. The end of the arm 86 forms one jaw of a clamp, the other jaw being the end of a resilient or spring lever 90, fulcrumed upon a screwpin 91, passed therethrough into a boss 92 on the arm 86. The segmental extension S5 of the arm 83 passes between the two jaws and is adapted to be clamped thereby when the lower end of the lever 90 is moved toward the back end of the machine.

To cause the operation of the clamp, there is a cam O3 rigidly secured upon the shaft 8. Said cam has a cam-rim 94 and also a cam 95 with a single depression 96. The cam-rim 94 has also a single depression, as shown in Figs. 10 and lll. A lever 97 is fulcru med upon a IIO stud 98, passed into a bracket 99 on the bed-v plate, (see Fig. 11,) and it projects at an inclination across the baseplate,bein g equipped on its end with a roller 100, resting against the cam-rim 94. Passed through the arm 86 is a pin 101, which rests against the side of the lever 97, and the other end of the pin is formed with a reduced end projecting through an aperture v102 in the lever 90 and with a shoulder which bears against the inner face of said lever. The cam-rim normally holds the clamp in its operative position, and the lever 83 is released only for an instant, immediately after the feeding of the work, to permit the presser-foot to rise or fall wi th the surface of the sole as the thickness varies, after which it is again immediately locked. The lever 86 has a roll 103, resting against the cam 95, whereby the arm or lever 86 is rocked to permit the feeding of the work. The lever 86 is rocked by the cam, after the clamp engages the segmental extension 85, for lifting the presser-foot to permit the feeding of the work, which takes place again subsequently. The parts of the machine are so timed that the roll 100 enters the depression in the cam-rim 94 just as the end of the lever 39 comes to a pointI where it may be engaged by the pin 44,as sh own in Fig.10,where upon the machine is stopped and the operative may rock the part or arm 73 by means of a treadle 82 to raise the presser foot. Through the arm 87 there is passed an adjusting-screw 500, which bears against the bedplate, which may be locked in position by the nut 501. This screw regulates the operation or movement of the lever 86, since it adjusts the roll 103 toward or from the cam 95, and thereby determines the length of contact between the last-mentioned parts. Consequently it varies the extent to which the presser-bar is lifted during the feeding of the work. According to this description l provide a member which is positively connected to the presser-foot and which may beclamped to hold the presser-foot against movement. The illustrated embodiment of the invention shows the member as consisting of two parts 73 and S3, connected by a rock-shaft, the longer one of which is in the nature of an arm of a lever. The parts 73 and 83 constitute, as it were, the short and long arms, respectively, of a bell-crank lever, the rock-shaft thus being a fulcrum or pivot. The short arm is connected to the presser-foot, and the long arm is adapted to be engaged near its end by the spring friction clamping mechanism. The diiference in length between the two arms is an important factor in determining the force necessary to lock the presser-foot against movement.

That part of the sewing mechanism which is mounted upon the head and which I denominate the upper sewing mechanism comprises a needle, its actuating mechanism, and a cast-oif. The needle is shown at 105, and it is clamped in the lower end of a vera corresponding extent.

tically-reciprocatory needle-bar 106 by a clamp 107. The bar reciprocates vertically in guides mounted in the bracket 67 and in an extension of the bed-plate 3. The extent to which the needle-bar is moved upwardly depends upon the thickness of the work, for the length of the loop is varied automatically by mechanism which shall be described. On the end of the shaft 8 is mounted a crank-piu or pitman 109, which is connected by a link 110 with a lever 111, fulcrumed upon a collar 112, rigidly secured to the needle-bar. The lever being thus pivotally connected to the collar 112 permits a certainamount of lost motion between the pitman and the needlebar. The collar 112 is provided with two separate lugs 113 114, and when the link 110 descends the lever 111 swings down freely until it encounters the lug 113 without eecting a downward movement of the needle-bar. The continued movement of the link, however, after the lever 111 strikes the lug 113 causes the downward movement of the needle-bar, and it will here be noted that the needle-bar always moves downward to eX- actly the same point. The upward movement, however, is varied by means of the following devices: Fulcrumed upon a stud 115, passed through the upright 6, is a lever 116, having its end 117 projected forward into the path of the end of the lever 111. The lever 116 is fulcrumed between its ends, and its shorter arm 118 projects downward and rests against a hardened stop-bar 119, adjustably secured by screws 120 121 tot-he lever 73, previously described. Aspring 122 is attached to the shorter arm 118 and to the upright 6, so that said arm is always held against the end of the stop-bar 119. The lever 73 is adjusted automatically according to the thickness of the work by the presser-foot, as previously described, and hence the lever 116 is likewise adjusted about its fulcrum in accordance with the variations in the work. The end 117 performs the function of a variable fulcrum for 'the lever 111 on the upstroke of the needlebar. The initial upward movement of the needle-bar may be caused by the lever 111 engaging the lug114; but as soon as the end of the said lever comes into contact with the stud 117 the fulcrum-point is immediately changed and the needle-bar moves still farther upward with a rapid movement. The degree of upward movement of the needle-bar varies inversely with the height of the fulcrum 117 from the base-plate 3, as will be readily understood, the arrangement of the levers 73 and 116 being such that as the lever 73 is raised the end 117 of the lever 116 is lowered By this construction and arrangement of parts the up-anddown stroke of the needle-.bar is intermittent and not continuous-that is to say, the said bar rests for a certain time at each end of its stroke. A piece of friction material 600 is inserted between the upper end of the bar and the arm 67 to offer a slight resistance to IOO IIO

the movement of the said bar, whereby it will remain stationary at the end of its movement, as described. An adjustable screwpin 1G01 may be used to increase the pressure of the friction material against the handlebar. (See Fig. 1S.)

The cast-off is indicated at 123, and it is secured upon the end of a narrow bar 124, slidably secured in a groove in the needlebar 10G. At its upper end it projects from the slot, as shown at 125, and is connected by a spring 126 with the collar 112. There is another collar 127 around the needle-bar between the projecting end 125 and the top of the collar 112. Said collar is provided with an upwardly-extending arm 126, which passes between the bracket G7 and friction material 129, held against the arm by a clip 130. The needle-bar has secured to it a stud 1311 a short distance from the collar 112, so that the cast-olf has a certain amount of lost movement at each reciprocation of the needle-bar. The cast-off performs the ordinary function accomplished by such devices, and it is properly timed, as will be subsequently described.

The feeding mechanism comprises a point 131, secured in an arm 134, connected by a stud 132 with the lower end of a bar 133. The arm and point are free to swing upwardly on the reverse lateral movement of the bar, but are held against so doing during the forward movement by a pin 135 engaging a shoulder at the lower extremity of said bar 133. The bar has an up-and-down as well asan oscillatory movement. At its upper end there is a stud 136 passing through a slot 137 in the presser foot bar, said stud being equipped on its end with a roll 13S. There is another stud 139 above it, on which there is a roll 14:0, said stud 139 being secured to the presser-foot bar.

The operation of the machine is as follows: The operative having placed a shoe upon the horn after raising the presser-foot by means of the treadle, as described, the presser-foot descends upon the work, the feeding-point also engaging the latter. The point and the presser-foot remain stationary while the needle descends, and the looper (not shown, but placed in the horn) carries the thread around it, the cast-olf mechanism following the needle until it strikes the work, whereupon said cast-oif stops and the needle penetrates the work to receive the loop. As the needle rises it slides by the cast-off until the barb of the needle is covered, and then the cast-off rises with the needle-bar. Just as the needle starts to lift, the presser-foot is raised slightly, and as the needle leaves the work the feeding-point moves forward. By the time the needle has reached its highest point the feeding-point has reached the limit of its travel. The presser-foot is let down by the cam and is released by the locking mechanism to permit it to adjust itself to the thickness of the work, said presser-foot adjusting itself at every stroke of the needle, as previously described. The movement of the presser-foot causes the adjustment of the movable fulcrum previously described, thus arranging for the length of the upward travel of the needle f or the next loop. Immediately after Ithe presser-foot is positioned itis clamped to form an abutment for the work and to hold the fulcrum rigidly against movement. The feeding-point is lifted out of the work and is drawn back to its first position, the needle now being atits highest point, with the loop held in the barb by the cast-off. Vhen the needle descends, the loop is held by the cast-od and the next stitch is drawn up through it. The stop mechanism, as previously described, is so arranged that the machine stops after one rotation of the shaft 8 unless the clutch is held out of operation by the treadle. The cam 95 holds the presserfoot raised slightly during the feeding operation to prevent its dragging on the work.

It will be seen that I have provided a compact and easyrunning machine. The needledriving shafts extend longitudinally of the bed and in parallelism with the various rockshafts which cause or govern the action of the other operative parts of the mechanism.

The movable fulcrum, with which the needle-bar is engaged or connected only during the upstroke thereof, and the greater part of the controlling mechanism therefor are located between the needle-bar driving-shaft and between the needle-bar and the upright on the bed. The adjustable parts have means for positively adjusting them to predetermined position, and the whole machine is neater, more compact, and more efficient than those heretofore constructed. By the employment of friction clamping mechanism I am enabled to lock the presser-foot at the exact position to which it has been adjusted by the work without any lost motion. Consequently I am able to adjust the variable fulcrum with the greatest accuracy for the length of the loop, a thing that has been impossible when positive mechanism, such as a pawl-and-ratchet, has been used for locking the presser-foot after its adjustment by the work. This I regard as an important feature of the invention, for I believe that I am the first to have employed friction clamping mechanism for the purpose specified. In connection with the clamping mechanism it will be observed that the lever 83, which has the segmental extension, is much longer than the arm 73, and hence I secure a greater leverage in clamping the presser-foot and attain a more accu rate clamping of the latter.

I do not herein claim specifically the stop mechanism northe clutch mechanism, nor do I herein claim the automatic presser-foot mechanism, perse, it being set forth and claimed in my copending application, Serial No. 57,400, filed April 25,1901. So faras I am aware, however, I am the first to have provided a machine in which the work-engaging parts-to IOO TIO

wit, the needle mechanism in the present embodiment of the invention-may be driven at either of two predetermined speeds at will or in which a stop mechanism is combined with a clutch mechanism and a manually-operated device whereby the machine must be started at the low speed and must be reduced in speed from fast to slow before the stop-motion can be actuated. The treadle which governs the stop-motion is connected to the clutch mechanism, and, as will be remembered, the machine can be started only at the slow speed, since the lifting of the first-mentioned part throws in the slow-speed pulley before the stop-motion is released.

Having thus explained the nature of the invention and described a way of constructing and using the same, although without attempting to set forth all of the forms in which it may be made or all of the modes of its use, I declare that what I claim isl. In a sewing-machine, a presser-foot, and sewing mechanism including a driving-shaft, a needle-bar, and means connected to and carried and supported by said needle-bar and controlled by said presser-foot for eifecting a variable movement of the needle-bar.

2. In a sewing-machine, a presser-foot, a needle-bar, a needle-bar driving mechanism having an unvarying path of motion, and a member supported upon the needle-bar and connecting the latter with the needle -bar driving mechanism, said member being controlled by said presser-foot for eecting a variable movement of said needle-bar.

3. In a sewing-machine, a presser-foot, a needle-bar, a needle-bar driving mechanism including a crank having an nnvarying path of motion, and a member mounted pivotally upon said bar and connected loosely to said crank, and controlled at its free end by said presser-foot to cause a variable movement of the needle-bar.

4. In a sewing machine, a needle, and means controlled by the thickness of the work for imparting a differential movement to the needle, said means including a member having an arm, and a friction-clamp to engage said arm.

5. In a sewing-machine, a needle, a needlebar, a driving-shaft, a lever supported upon the needle-bar and connected to said shaft, and an automatically-variable fulcrum adapted to be engaged intermittently by said lever to cause a differential movement of the needle.

6. In a sewing-machine, a needle, a needlebar, driving mechanism connected to the needle-bar, and means independent of the driving mechanism for causing the movement of the needle-bar to vary in length from a uniform lower terminal of movement.

7. In a sewing-machine, a needle, a needlebar, driving mechanism for actuating the needle-bar, and mechanism operating mediately upon said needle-bar at or :near the end of the upstroke of the needle-bar to increase the said upstroke.

8. In a sewing-machine, a needle, a needlebar, a lever pivoted to the needle-bar, driving meansV connected to said lever, and an independent fulcrum for said lever located to be engaged by said lever on the upstroke of the needle-bar.

9. In a sewing-machine, a needle, a needlebar, a lever pivoted to and carried by said needle-bar, an automatically-adj usted fulcrum having an intermittent operative engagement with said lever, and driving means connected to said lever.

10. In asewing-machine, a needle, a needlebar, a lever pivoted at one end to the needlebar and projected laterally therefrom, stops on said needle-bar above and below said lever, and means for engaging said lever alternately with said stops to cause the reciprocation of the needle-bar.

ll. In asewing-machine, aneedle, a needlebar, a lever pivoted at one end to the needlebar, and projected laterally therefrom, a variable fulcrum with which the free end of said lever may be engaged, and means connected with said lever between its ends for moving it.

12. In a sewing-machine, a needle, a needlebar, a lever pivoted at one end to the needlebar and projecting laterally therefrom, a variable fulcrum with which the free end of said lever may be engaged, means connected with said lever between its ends for moving it, and mechanism for automatically adjusting the position of said fulcrum.

13. In a sewing-machine, a needle, a needlebar, a lever pivoted at one end to the needlebar, and projected laterally therefrom` a projection on the needle-bar below and in operative relation to said lever, an automatically-adj usted fulcrum above the free end of said lever, a driving-shaft, a crank-pin on said shaft, and a link connecting the crankpin with the lever between the ends thereof.

14. In a sewing-machine, a needle, a needlebar having a member, and automatic mechanism including a variable fulcrum adapted to be intermittently engaged by the member on the needle-bar, controlled by the thickness of the work for imparting a dierential movement to said needle-bar to vary the length of the loop, said mechanism moving said needle-bar to the same point at each downstroke thereof.

l5. In a sewing-machine, a needle, a needlebar, a presser-foot automatically adjusted in accordance with the thickness of the work, mechanism for driving the needle-bar, including a lever pivoted upon the needle-bar, and having a free end, and a member connected to the presser-foot, and adapted to engage the needle-bar lever and edect a differential movement of the needle-bar.

16. A sewing-machine havinga power-shaft, a needle-bar, operative connections between the power-shaft and the needle-bar, for imparting a uniform reciprocation to said needle-bar and mechanism independent of and supplemental to said operative connections roo for causinga greater upward movement of the needle-bar.

i7. Asewing-machinehavingapower-shaft, a needle-bar located above the work, operative connections between the power-shaft and the needle-bar, including a crank and pitman, and means for causing a differential movement of the needle-bar including a work-controlled variable fulcrnm, and friction clamping mechanism for holding the fulcrum in position after adjustment.

18. A shoe-sewing machine comprising a needle-bar', a power-shaft, connections between the said bar and shaft, a work-adjusted variable fulcrum independent of the connection between said bar and shaft, for causing a movement of variable length of the needlebar, a clamp for locking the fulcrnm, and a cam on said shaft for controlling the said clamp.

19. Ashoe-sewing machinehavinga needlebar driving-shaft, a crank thereon, a reciprocatory needle-bar, a lever pivoted at one end on the needle-bar and connected to the crank, and means whereby said lever has a variable lost motion with respect to said needle-bar.

20. Ashoe-sewing machine having a powershaft, with a crank on the end thereof, a needle-bar, a lever pivoted to the needle-bar, a pitman-rod connecting the lever with the crank, and stops for permitting lost motion between said lever and the needle-bar.

2l. Ashoe-sewingmachinehaving a powershaft with a crank on the end thereof, a needie-bar operating above the work,con nections between the said crank and the said needlebar, and mechanism operating intermittently on said connections to impart a movement of variable length to the needle-bar.

22. Ashoe-sewingmachinehavingapresserfoot mechanism, a power-shaft, a needle-bar operating above the work, a connecting -rod between the said power-shaft and the needlebar, and traveling in a fixed path, and means between the connecting rod and the needle-bar and operated intermittently by the presser-foot mechanism for causing the connecting-rod to impart a movement of variable length to the needle-bar.

23. Ashoe-sewing machine having a powershaft extending in a direction from front to rear of the machine, a pitman ony the front end of the said shaft, a needle-bar located above the work in front of the pitman, connections between the needle-bar and the pitman, and means governing said connections whereby a movement of variable length is imparted to the needle-bar.

24. A shoe-sewing machine havinga powershaft, a needle-bar, mechanism for driving the needle-bar, and means controlling the needle-bar only on its upstroke for causing an automatic variation in the said upstroke, said means being entirely independent of the mechanism for driving the needle-bar.

25. A shoe-sewing machine comprising a shaft, a needle-bar, a connecting-rod between the shaft and the needle-bar, a lever pivoted to the said rod and to the needle-bar, and a variable fulcrum in the path of the said lever.

2G. Asewing-machinecomprisinga needlebar, a power-shaft, connections between the needle-bar and the power-shaft including a lever pivoted to and carried by the needlebar and having a free end, a variable fulcrum inthe path of the said lever, and an automatically-adjustable member having an arm for adjusting the said fulcrum.

27. A shoe-sewing machine comprisinga needle-barlocated above the work, complemental sewing mechanism, a power-shaft, connections between the said bar and shaft, variable means for causing a differential movement of the needle-bar, a friction-clamp for locking said means and power-operated mechanism for opening and closing the said clamp.

28. A sewingmachine having stitching mechanism, two driving mechanisms rotating at different predetermined speeds, means for connecting either of said mechanisms with the stitching mechanism, and a manuallyoperable treadle for actuating said means whereby the speed of the machine may be varied on different parts of the work.

29. A sewing-machine having a drivingshaft adapted to stop at a fixed point in its rotation, means for stopping said shaft at said fixed point, stitching mechanism connected to and operated by said shaft, two driving mechanisms rotating at different predetermined speeds for driving said shaft, and manually-controlled devices for connecting either of said driving mechanisms with said shaft and for causing the actuation of the stopping means.

30. A sewingmachine having stitching mechanism, two driving mechanisms rotating at different predetermined speeds, and controllable means for connecting either of said mechanisms with said stitching mechanism at will, whereby said stitching mechanism may be driven instantly at either of two different predetermined speeds, combined with a stop mechanism adapted to stop the stitch mechanism at the end of each stitch.

3l. A sewing-machine having stitching mechanism, two driving mechanisms rotating at different predetermined speeds, and controllable means for connecting either of said mechanisms'with said stitching mechanism at will, whereby said stitching mechanism may be driven instantly at either of two different predetermined speeds, combined with a manually-controlled stop mechanism adapted to stop the stitching mechanism at lthe end of each stitch or after the completion of a group of stitches.

32. A sewing-machine having stitching mechanism, two driving mechanisms rotating at differentpredetermined speeds, controlling devices for the driving mechanisms, a stop mechanism adapted to stop the stitching mechanism at the completion of any stitch,

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and a manually-operated lever having operative connections with the controlling devices and with the stop mechanism.

33. A sewingT machine having stitching mechanism, two driving mechanisms rotating at different predetermined speeds, a stop mechanism and mechanism whereby the stop mechanism is operable only when the slowerdriving mechanism is operative.

34. A sewing machine having,r stitching mechanism, automatic presser-foot mechanism, lnwo driving mechnisms adapted to operate the stitching mechanism at either of two predetermined speeds, and a stop mechanism adapted to stop the 'st-itching mechanism at; the end cfa stitch with Jhe needle raised and with the presser-foot on the work.

EVERETT P. RICHARDSON.

Vitnesses:

J. H. RICHARDSON, JOHN R. H. WARD.

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