US649870A

US649870A - Buttonhole sewing and cutting machine.

Info

Publication number: US649870A
Application number: US64085797A
Authority: US
Inventors: James T Hogan
Original assignee: National Machine Co Inc
Current assignee: National Machine Co Inc
Priority date: 1897-06-15
Filing date: 1897-06-15
Publication date: 1900-05-15
Anticipated expiration: 1917-05-15

Description

No. 649,37). Patented May I5, |900.,

J. T. HUGAN. BuTToNHoLE SEWING AND' CUTTING MACHINE.

(Application led June 15, 1897.) (No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet l.

"WSU wz IRB) Q3 X k ,m i [E x 5/ cl f |I Q, w w WITNESSES: #w iNvENToR No. 649,870. Patented Nay I5, 1900. J. T. HOGAN.

BUTTNHOLE SEWING AND CUTTING NIAGHINE.

(Application led June 15, 1897.)

(No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet 2.

euuuuun-lulnunnn m L m,... um

WITNESSES: v INVENTOR j M ATTORNEY No. 649,870. Patented May- I5, |900. J. T. HGAN.

BUTTDNHOLE SEWING AND CUTTING MACHINE.

(Application filed. June 15, 1897.)

(No Model.)

lN-VENTOR WITNESSES:

BY a-0 7m ATTORNEY no., wAsHmoToN o c No. 649,870. Patented May I5, |900.

J. T. HUGAN. BUT'TONHULE SEWING AND CUTTNG. MACHINE.

(Application filed June 15, 1897.)

6 Sheets-Sheet 4,

(N0 Model.)

INVENTOR we Nonms paens oo. now-Uma., wnsmwmcm, n4 c,

No. 649,870. Patented May I5, |900. J. T. HUGAN.

BUTTUNHOLE SEWING AND CUTTING MACHINE.

(Application led June 15, 1897.) (No Mudelr.)

6 Sheets-Sheet 5.

7M ATTORNEY Patented May l5, l90. J. T. HBGAN'.

BUTTONHDLE SEWING AND CUTTING MACHINE.

(Application led June 16, 1897.)

-(Nu Model.)

6 Sheets-Sheet 6,

Nv NAN @5% .III

WITNESSES:

1H: mams varias on. PHOTO-uwmwAsmNm-on, u4 c.

wirr. Srafrns erich..

PATENT JAMES T. HOGAN, OF JERSEY CITY, NEV JERSEY, ASSIGNOR TO llllF NATIONAL lllAOl'llNF. COMPANY, OF TROY, NEV YORK.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING AND CUTTING MACHINE.

srnerrrcacrtolv forming part of Letters Patent No. 649,976, dated May 15, 1900. tppiimitn fina June 15,1897. serial No. 640357. (No model.)

.To LZZ whom 71mg/ concern.-

Be it known that I, JAMES T. llooAN, of Jersey City, in the county of Hudson and State of New Jersey, have invented a certain new and useful Improvement in Buttonhole- Machines, of which the following is a specilication.

I will describe a machine embodying my improvement and then point ont the novel features in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure l is a front view of a machine embodying' my improvement. Fig. 2 is a top View of the same, certain parts having been broken away. Fig. 3 is an end view of the arm of the machine, showing the needle-bar-supporting mechanism, the cover being removed for the purpose of exposing such mechanism. Fig. 4 is a horizontal section at the plane of the dotted line 4 4, Fig. 3. Fig. 5 isa top View of certain parts. Fig. 6 is another top View of certain parts. Fig. G is an inverted plan or bottom view of a bar and appurtenances represented in Fig. 6. Fig. 7 is an inverted plan of certain portions of the machine beneath the bedplate, this view being upon a larger scale. Fig. 8 is a longitudinal vertical section taken through the axial line of the feed-wheel. Fig. 9 is a transverse vertical section taken through the axial line of the feed-wheel. Fig. 10 is a top view of a cani. Fig. l1 is a bottom view ot`.a feed-levercomprised in the machine. Fig. l2 is a transverse section of the said lever. Fig. 13 is a view of the rear side of the lower end of the cutter-bar and of the rear edge of the cutter. Fig. it is a side View of these parts.

Similar letters of reference designate corresponding parts in all figures.

A designates the bed of the sewingma chine.

B designates the arm, having the main shaft C arranged horizontally in its upper portion. Aiixed to this shaft is a disk O', having on that side which is toward the arm of the machine a protnberance consisting', as here shown, of a circumferentially-inclined surface c, which cooperates with a stop D. This stop is shown as supported by a three-arm lever d d2 cl3, which is fnlcrumed by a pin or screw d* to a bracket d5, which may be attached to the bed A and arm B of the machine. Mounted loosely upon the main shaft beyond the disk O is a belt-pulley E, and this has frictional engagement with the adjacent side of the disk OQ a washer of friction-generating material, such as paper, being preforably interposed. Such a washer may be inserted in a recess formed in the side of the disk C.

The arm d2 of the lever d' d2 d3 bears against the side of the belt-pulley E and serves to press it toward the disk C. This arm of the lever is preferably provided for this purpose with an adjustable pin or screw d opposite the center of the belt-pulley E. It will be seen that when the lever is oscillated in one direction by power applied to its arm cl3 it will move the belt-pulley toward the disk C and the stop D away from the disk O', but that when it is moved in the reverse direction the pressure of the belt-pulley against the disk O will be relaxed and the stop D will be moved to a position to stop the disk O.

The arm cl3 of the lever is pivotally connected by a pin or screw d7 with a rod d8, litted to bearings formed integral with the bed A and arranged to slide lengthwise of the bed along the under side of the same. Between one of these bearings and a collar d, which is aliixed to the rod cls, a helical spring d10 is coiled around the rod. This spring acts in a direction to oscillate the lever in such direction as to apply the stop to the disk O and relax the pressure of the pulley E upon said disk.

A lever d, fulcrumed to a pin (7.12, that is supported by a bracket d, fastened to the bed A of the machine, is connected by a chain tted to an eye d1'l with a treadle that is :intended to be actuated by the operator to depress the lever. Normally a spring d15 will oscillate this lever upwardly. The lever d is a bell-crank lever. It has an upright arm that is provided with apin di, which engages with a lslot or notch in a collar dl?, fastened to the rod d8. By depressing the lever d the rod (Z8 will be moved longitudinally against the force of the spring d10, and thus the lever will be oscillated in such direction that its stop will be removed from the disk C' and the belt-pulley E will be pressed against said disk to cause the operation of the machine.

The lever d is not held by the trcadle in the position to which it is adjusted, but is left free, so that the parts may be reversed in their action automatically. When the 1ever d is depressed, it is, however, locked in position by means of a lever dlg, that engages With a notch in a finger d1, extending from a collar d20, which is affixed to the rod ds. The lever C118 is fulcrumed to a pin or screw C121, passing through the bed4 A of the machine. A spring Z22 acts to oscillate the lever d18 into a position to engage with the finger dlg when permitted so to do by a cam C123, Whose operation will hereinafter be more fully described. It is a cam that -is carried rotarily around to its operating position once for each buttonhole that is cut and stitched. It has an inclined forward end that coacts with a correspond'ingly-inclined end of the lever d, and it is by the coaction of these inclined surfaces that the said lever is oscillatedv in the contrarydirection to that in which it is moved by the spring e122. Whenever the cam da oscillates the leverds, it disengages it from the nger dm, thereby allowing the spring d to' move the rod d8 in the proper direction to relax the pressure of the belt-pulley E against the disk O and to apply the stop to said' disk.

When the treadle which is employed to depress the lever d is released after having depressed the lever, the spring CX will raise the lever to its normal position, and thereby it will bring a iin ger or roll C124 into con tact with the end portion of a finger e125, extending from a collar dis, that is fastened to-the rod d8. The` finger or roll 124 will remain in contact with the end portion of the finger tizi until i the cam d23 disengages the lever dls from the finger d of the rod d8, thereby allowing the rod to be moved by the spring d10. When this happens, the spring d15 raises the lever d still farther, and thereby shifts the finger or roll dit to one side of the finger d2 of the rod da to later come in contact with it, as hereinafter pointed out, thereby lookin g. the rod el8` against an'y'outward movement, or, in

' other words, against any movement in the direction contrary to that in which the spring d1 is capable of movingit. While the rod d8 is locked by the finger or roll d2 against any outward movement, the incline c of the disk C will come opposite to the stop which is affixed tothe arm d of the lever D and will crowd against said stop until the latter positively arrests its movement.

The lever C118 may be disengaged from the finger du by a hand-lever dim, which is `fulcrumed by a pin d2? to a bracket (128, extending downwardly from the bed A of the machine. The lower arm of this lever e126 crosses the lever dlg, and its upper arm extends above the bed.

F designates a cutter-bar supported in the end of the arm B, so that it may reciprocate vertically and also oscillate about its axis. Itis shown as having a cutter f of a length adapting it to'cut an entire buttonhole at one stroke. In this example of myimprovement the cutter operates at about the time the stitching begins; but this timing is notessential to my invention.

It will be seen, Fig. 3, that ,the arm B has in its outer end a chamber b and that the cutter-bar extends through this chamber, being supported by a bearin formed in the bot tom of the chamber and by a bearing formed in a collarf, fitted in the top of the chamber. A spline or feather f2 engages the cutter-har with the collar f', so that by oscillating the collar an oscillatory movement Will be imparted to the cutter-bar in addition to its reciprocatory movement. The purpose of the oscillatory movementis to oscillate the cutter into and out of a position in line with Vthe buttonhole to be formed and also for the purpose of engaging and disengaging the cutterbar and the-part which is to reciprocate it. In the present instance the reciprdcation of the cutter-bar is effected by the needle-bar G, the latter having afxed to it for this purpose a collar g, provided in one side with a notch into which may be swung a toe or fin` ger f3, that extends from a collar f4, affixed to the cutter-bar. As here shown, the collar f4 of the cutter-bar is provided with a stopd shoulder f5, which will contact with a portion of the collar g of the needle-bar to arrest the cutter-bar in its oscillatory movement as soon as it comes into the position in which it should operate to cut a buttonhole. When the cutter-bar has been elevated to its highest position and oscillated out of engagement with the needle-bar, a pin f6, extending radially from the cutter-bar, will be carried over a support f7, and thus the cutter-bar will be maintained in an elevated position until it has to operate again. Then it will be oscillated so that its pin]c6 will leave the support]c7 and the cutter will assume an operative position. Besides this, the cutter-bar Will be properly IOO IIO

engaged with the needle-bar. The collarf is provided with a pin f8, which is attached to a rod f9. The rod f9 is oscillated vertically by a lever f 10. Itis permitted to engage with a lever f, that is aflixed to one end of a rock'- shaft I, that is journaled in the arm B of the machine and driven by a cam that is mounted upon a screw-stud t', the said cam being geared to the main shaft C. At the proper time the lever f 1 throws it out of engagement with the lever fn. As all this mechanismfor operating the cutter is old and well known, I have not attempted to illustrate it, nor shall l describe it in detail.

The leverf 10 projects downwardly through the bed A ot the machine for the purpose of coacting with a leverfls. A spring f19 holds itin contact with the leverfls. Arotary cam fm operates the lever fis, and hence the leverflo.

While the cutter may be mounted upon the cutter-bar in any desired manner so far as.

the operation of other parts of the machine are concerned, I prefer to mount it inv the manner illustrated. It will be seen, Figs. 13 and 14, that a collar f12 is fitted to the lower end of the cutter-bar and secured there by means of a screwfl. As the cutter-bar is cylindrical and the hole in the collar f1L is also cylindrical, it is possible to adjust the collar rotarily upon the cutter-bar by suitably manipulating the screw fis. The collar f12 has one flat side f andis iiat on the bottom. An L-shaped piece flis fitted to the flat side f14 of the collar and to the bottom of the colf12 and is secured thereto by means of a screw f1, passing through the upright portion of the L-shaped piece fl and into the flat side f1" of the collar f 12. The upright portion of the L-shaped piece fl has a horizontal slot f 17, through which the screw fw passes. Hence the L-shaped piece may be shifted horizontally. As the flat side f14 of the collar f12 is at the rear of the collar f1?, it is possible to shift the L-shaped piece in the direction of the length of the arm B of the machine, which will be transversely to the length of a buttonhole. As the cutter is fastened to the L-shaped piece fk", the adjustment of the L- shaped piece in the manner just explained will effect the shifting of the cutter, so that it may be made to cut a bnttonhole upon the descent of the needle while making either an edge-stitch or a depth-stitch. As the cutter is provided with horizontal slots through which pass screws that fasten it to the L- shaped piecej'l, it may be independently adjusted endwise. These possibilities of adj ustment are advantageous, because when the cutting is done substantially in advance of the stitching, or, in other words, at the beginning of the stitching, it is desirable that the cutter should operate during the descent of the needle for making a depth-stitch, whereas if the cutter is to operate after the substantial completion of the stitching it will be more desirable to have it descend during the descent of the needle for making an edgestitch.

Later on I shall describe means whereby the cutter may be timed to operate at the beginning or at the end of the stitching operation.

The needle-bar G works through the chamber Z), formed at the end of the arm B and reciprocates through openings formed in the top and bottom ol' such chamber and made of such size as not to interfere with the necessary movements of the needle bar. It is mounted in a well-known manner to recipro` cate vertically, and it may be combined in any suitable manner with the main shaft, so as to be reciprocated thereby. The needle-bar G is not supported directly by the arm Il of the sewing-machine, but in a yoke or frame G, which reciprocates in the direction of the length of the arm B, so that the needle will be carried first on one side and then on the other side of a given line to produce edgestitches along the center line of a buttonhole and depthwstitches at one side thereof. It

'will be seen, Fig. 3, that the yoke or frame G has a bearing g at its lower extremity and a bearing g2 at it upper extremity and that the needle-bar is supported in both of these bearings in such manner that it may reciprocate vertically through them. The yoke or frame G is mainly of rectangular form, it being composed of two vertical portions g3 g4, connected near their ends by horizontal portions g5 Q6, the bearings g' g2 being formed integral with these horizontal portions g5 gs. The vcrtical portion g3 has vertical trunnion-bearings at its upper and lower ends in the end of the arm of the machine, so that the entire yoke or frame may oscillate horizontally. The vertical portion g'i is provided with an arm Q7, that is at its outer extremity connected pivotally by a pin or screw gS with one end of a horizontal reciprocating rod gf. By means of this rod the yoke or frame G is oscillated horizontally, and thus it is made to carry the needle-bar to and fro, or, in other words, to give it the jogging movement necessary for the production of stitches. The mechanism for operating this rod gl I will describe presently.

The needle-bar is reci procated vertically by means of a disk c', which is affixed to that end of the main shaft C which terminates near the needle-bar G. Upon this disk is a wristpin c2, and such wrist-pin coacts with a collar gw, which is afxed to the needle-bar G. The disk c is constructed to constitute a cam for operatinga take-up lever H; but as this forms no part of my present invention I will make no further mention of it.

The rod gf is connected with a stud g, that extends from a block tilted in a slideway gli, formed in a lever gli, which is rigidly affixed to the front end of the shaft I, so that when said shaft is oscillated by the cam before mentioned it will oscillate this lever Q13 and the latter will reciprocate the rod gf. Obviously by shifting the position of the stud g11 along the lever g1, so that it will be nearer to or farther from the fulcrum-shaft I, the ainplitude of the reciprocation of the rod g will be varied. For shifting the stud g length wise of the lever gli; I employ in the present example of my invention a lever Q14, that is fulcrumed to a pin or screw Q15, fastened to the arm B of the machine. The free end of this lever is longitudinally slotted or forked to embrace the stud gu. Intermediate of the ends of the lever ou it is pivotally connected by a pin g1 to a rod g, A helical spring g1S surrounds this rod between the bed A and a collar gli), that is fastened' by a set-screw to the rod gu. By means of this spring the rod gw, and hence the lever y and the stud g, will be moved upward whenever there is no counteractin g force.

The lower end of the rod gli is pivotally connected by a screw y?" with a cam-lever gm. This lever g21 is fulcrumed to a pin or screw g2g, supported in a bracket g2, extending downwardly from the bed A. I ntcrmediate IOO IIO

4.. eligen/" of its ends the lever Q21 is provided with a laterally-extending toe or finger Q24,that bears upon a cam Q25. The toe or nger Q24 is fastened to the lever Q21 by screws Q26, that pass through slots Q27, extending lengthwise of the lever, so as to afford provision for adjusting the toe or finger toward either end of the lever. Thus provision is afforded for adjusting to a nicety the movement imparted to the stud Q11 lengthwise of the lever Q15. It also affords provision for timing the shifting of the stud Q11 along the lever Q12, because by shifting such toe or finger in one direction or the other along the lever Q21 the cam will operate upon it either sooner or later.

The cam Q25 is a rim-cam, or, in other words, a cam formed on the under side of an annular or rim-like part.

Any suitable shuttle mechanism may be employed. In the present instance a shuttle is fitted into a race S', which is fastened to a bracket S, that is secured to the under side of the bed A. A shuttle-driver s' propels the shuttle and is comprised in a lever that is oscillated by means of a rod s2, which derives motion from a wrist-pin S5, extending from a disk s4, affixed to an upright shaft S, geared to the main shaft C. As here shown, the cam Q25 is formed integral with the disk, having slots Q28, which are concentric with the center or axis of the cam. Through these slots pass screws Q29, that engage with the under side of the feed-wheel J. The slots Q28 afford provision for adjusting the cam Q25 relatively to the feed-wheel. The feed-wheel is affixed to a cam K, which is the cam which'produces the progressive feeding movement lengthwise of a buttonhole. It will be seen that this cam K is a groovecam. Integral with the cam K is a cam L, which may be termed a changecam, because it changes the position of the fabric in which the buttonhole is being stitched, so that the stitches will occur in different relations to the center line of a buttonhole. To be more explicit, this cam will cause the stitches to be arranged in rows for the sides of a buttonhole and in groups for the ends of a buttonhole to constitute barring. As in this form of machine the fabric in which the buttonhole to be worked is held in a clamp M, the cams K L operate upon this work-clamp. The means whereby they are enabled to fulfil their functions will be described later on. Between the piece comprising the cams K L and the feed-wheel J a gear-wheel O is arranged. The feed-wheel J ,the gear-wheel Othe piece comprising the cams K L, and the piece comprising the cam Q25 are all provided at or near the center with a hole, so that they may be fitted upon astud N, that is fastened to a bed-plate A', fitted in bearings a 0,2, extending downwardly from the under side of the bed A of the machine, the direction of the sliding movement of the bed-plate A' being lengthwise of the arm B of the machine. The extremity of this stud N is screw-threaded and fitted with a nut n.

A pin inserted in a hole 7c, :formed in a piece comprising the cams K L and also fitted in similar holes in the feed-wheel J and gearwheel O, locks the said part comprising the cams K L, the gear-wheel O, and the feedwheel J together, so that they will turn in unison. Owing to the slots Q28 and screws Q22, which secure the cam Q25 to the feed-wheel, this cam Q25 may be adjusted rotarily not only with reference to the feed-wheel, but to the cams K L. Intermediate of the disk from which the cam Q25 extends and the nut n a friction device n' surrounds the stud N. It may consist of a disk of metal and a number of disks of leather or like material arranged intermediate of said disk of metal and the disk with which the cam Q25 is formed.

The cam Q25 makes one complete rotation for each buttonhole. It has two flat surfaces 1 2 and two intermediate notches 3 4, which are diametrically opposite each other. While the two rows of side stitches are being formed the toe or finger Q24 will be in contact with the portions 1 2 of the cam Q25. During the formation of the barring-stitches at the ends of the two rows of side stitches the toe or linger Q24 will rise in the notches 3 4. It will seen that the rear faces or sides of these notches are inclined. As in this way the rod Q17 will be made to shift the stud Q11 farther from the fulcrum-shaft I, the amplitude of the jogging movement of the needle-bar G will be increased, and consequently the barringstitches will be longer than the side stitches. They will be made gradually shorter-that is, each one succeeding another will be shorter for the last few stitches because of the inclined rear faces of the notches 3 4. This variation in the length of the barring-stitches is advantageous, because it will result in staying the end of ya buttonhole better than if the stitches were all of the same length. Not only do the shorter stitches stay the material where the longer stitches could not stay it, but the shorter stitches .also tie down the longer stitches.

The feed-wheel J may be of any suitable form. I have shown it as being operated by means of a pawl j, pivoted to a lever j', which IOO is `mounted. upon a hub j2, with which the feed-wheel is provided. A spring 7'2 holds the pawl in engagement with the ratchetteeth on the periphery of the feed-wheel. A pawl j4, pivoted to a stud Q5, extending from the bed-plate Af and impelled against the periphery of the feed-wheel by means of a spring j, prevents backlash of the feedwheel. The lever 7" is provided with a longitudinal slot ji, and with this slotted portion is connected a rod js, the means for making the connection being represented as a screw passing through the end of the rod js through the slotj7 of the lever j and having a head on one side of the lever j and a nut applied to it at the other side. The rod ja is IZO and a nut, with a lever 31, the said lever being longitudinally slotted where the screw jg passes through it. By the longitudinal slotting of the levers j jm provision is afforded for adjustments which will vary the throw of the pawl j. Thus stitches maybe ooarser or finer or, in other words, farther apart or nearer together. The lever jl() is fulcrumed to a screw-stud j, that is fastened to the bed A of the machine. Beyond this fulcrum the lever is bifurcated and operates a cam affixed to the shaft S, and from this cam is derived the motion which is transmitted to the feed-pawl j.

The gear-wheel O engages with a pinion O, affixed to a shaft supported in a bearing carried by the bed-plate A and extending through a slot in th'e bed A of the machine. At the upper end this shaft is provided with a handpiece o, whereby the pinion O/, and

consequently the gear-wheel O and the feedwheel J and the cams K L, may be turned by hand.

M designates a work-clamp, the particular features of which are claimed in the application filed by me on November 9, 1899, Serial No. 7 36,365, this clamp comprisinga bar 'mto which is hinged alever m1", which lever at its free end supports the shank portion of the top plate of the work-clamp.

The bar m13 is fastened by screws m17 to a bar m18. Preferably the bar m13 will be provided with longitudinal slots m1 where the screws m" pass through it, as thus convenient provision for adjusting the cloth-clamp relatively to the needle and cutter is aorded.

The bar m13, Figs. 6 and 6X, has on the side which is the nearer to the cloth-clamp aprojectionm20,whose sides are shown as converging; but this feature of construction is not material. On the upper side of the projection m20 are two ribs m21, between which the bar m13 fits. They serve as steadiments, so as to prevent any oscillation of the bar m13 independently of the bar m13. Extending transversely of the bar mls is a slot or notch This extends through that side of the bar which is the farther from the work-clamp. The bar m13 is provided with a longitudinal slot m25, which is in line with the slot or notch m22, and in the slot m23 of the bar m13 is fastened a stud m24. As shown, it may be clamped in position by means of a nut applied to a screw with which it is provided. Owing to the fact that this stud is fastened through a longitudinal slot in the bar m13 andthe bar m18 is provided with a coincident slot or notch m22, the stud m24 may be adjusted lengthwise of the bar m13 and may protrude downwardly through thc bar m13. On the under side of the bar m18 are pairs of ribs m25, forming slideways fitting blocks m26, tted loosely upon studs m27, which are screwed into a bar 111.23. This bar ym23 is fitted in a slideway in the upper side of the bed-plate A. To afford a long bearing for the bar m28, the bed-plate is provided with latcrally-extending arms a3 cl.

The bar m28 is provided with a stud m2,

which extends downwardly through a slot mm in the bed-plate A into the groove of the cam K. The bar mS therefore derives motion from the cam K in directions transverse to the length of the arm B of the machine or, in other words, in the direction of the length of the opening in the work-clamp and lengthwise of a buttonhole produced. This motion is what is generally called the feed motion progressively lengthwise of abuttonhole.

It will be seen that the feed-cam K has dwells Zo k2. These, Fig. 10, consist of portions concentric With the axis of the cam. They allow the cam to rotate during the formation of barring-stitches without producing any feed of the work-clamp.

The lower end of the stud m2* is provided with an antifriction-roller m30, that fits in a longitudinal slot m51, formed in a lever m, which is fulcrumed by a pin or screw m33 to the bed-plate A'. The slot m31 is necessary to allow adjustments of the stud m24 lengthwise of the bar nl andf transversely of the bar m13.

From the under side of the lever m3" extend jaws m3", which embrace a roller m95, mounted upon a stud m3, that extends upwardly from the feed-bar m28. By this means the feed-bar ym28 serves to oscillate the lever m32. The lever-m32 transmits motion through the stud m24 to the bar m18, and consequently to the work-clamp, in the direction of the length of a buttonhole. It will be seen,there fore, that the feed-cam does not directly impart motion to the work-clamp in the direction for feeding, but imparts motion directly to the feed-bar m28 in the feeding direction, and the latter imparts the feeding movement to the work-clamp through the lever m32 and the bar m18, carrying the bar m13, to which the work-clamp is attached. One advantage of this is the opportunity afforded, for adjustments to suit different sizes of buttonholes simply by shifting the stud m2 nearer to or farther from the fulcruin of the lever m32.

The change-cam L cooperates with a roller Z, mounted upon a stud Z', affixed to the bearing a2 of the bed-plate A. As the changecam L is mounted upon this bed-plate and the roller Z is mounted upon a stationary part of the machine, it follows that the cam will derive a bodily movement from its coaction with the roller and that such movement will be imparted tothe bed-plate. Helical springs Z2, attached at one end to the arms a3 c4 of the bed-plate A and at the other end to appurtenances of the bed A of the machine, tend to draw the bed-plate A so as to move the change-cam toward the roller Z. The projections of the cam will of course effecta movement in the contrary direction. The changecam is composed of a number of concentric portions Z3 Z4 Z5, there being two short circumferential portions Z4 of the same radius and two long circumferential portions Z3 Z5 of radii diiferent from each other and different from IOO IIO

Y of theother row of side stitches.

the radius of the portions Z4. The long` cireumferential portion Z3 will prevent any movement of the work-clamp transversely to the length of a buttonhole While one -row of side stitches is being formed, and the long circumferential portion Z5 will perform the same ofiice for the work-clamp during the formation The other Y circumferential portions hold the clamp against jogging during the formation of the barring-stitches. The shoulders or offsets intermediate of the two short circumferential portions-Zt and the long circumferential portions Z3 Z5 serve to shift the work-clamp prior toand after the completion of two sets of barring-stitches which are formed at the ends of a" buttonhole, the obvious purpose of thus shifting the work-clamp being to secure the proper disposition of the two rows of side stitches with reference to the center line of the buttonhole and to secure the disposition of the barring-stitches equally across the center line of the buttonhole on both sides.

It will -be seen that the dwells k' 7a2 of the feed-cam K, which suspend the feeding of the work-clamp, are operative at the time that the shortcircumferential portions Z4 of the changecam hold the Work-clamp in position for the barring-stitches and that while the dwells k 7a2 of the feed-cam are fulfilling their function andthe short circumferential portions Z4 of the change-cam are maintaining the proper position of the work-clamp for the barringcreasing the amplitude of the jogging movement of the needle.

, The stop-cam CZ23 is so positioned that it will immediately after the formation of the second set of barring-stitches oscillate the lever dlg,

L so that it will release the rod d8 and permit the spring d10 to operate. As soon as the rod is moved by the spring the arm d2 is moved away from the disk C and the arm d moved toward the disk C to have vthe pad D in the path of the incline or protuberance c, so that as the protuberance engages with the pad a cam-like action by the incline on the pad occurs, which forces the finger CZ25 of the rod d8 into engagement with the antifriction-,rollen which is brought into position by the spring dw. This roller will prevent any movement of the rod in the releasing direction and locks it, so that the rotation of the disk C will be stopped. This operation occurs if the incline or protuberance has not reached the pad when the machine is stopped. Should, however, the protuberance c be in front of the pad CZ when the rod isreleased by the lever d, the action above described will not immediately occur, and the disk will continue to rotate, thus carrying the protuberance past the pad. As soon, however, as the incline has passed the pad the spring d10 will move the rod farther in the locking direction to bringthe pad directly in the path of the protuberance, so that when they engage again the cam-like action above described takes place to stop the machine. n

In the illustrated organization the stitching of a buttonhole will begin with the formation of one row of side stitches, then one set of barring-stitches'will be form ed, next the other row of side stitches will be made, and finally the second set of barring stitches will be formed. As the buttonhole is to be cut in the illustrated organization substantially -at the beginning of the stitching, the cam f2U is positioned so that it will effect Athe descent of the cutter just after the rst few stitches in the first row of sid-e stitches shallhave been made. I do not intend to be limited to the timing mentioned.

It will be seen that the cams dfz are mounted upon the circumference of the cam (125. Preferably they will be secured by screws passing through` slots, which will permit of the adjustment of the cams F3 f2 ci rcumferentially of the cam Q25.

What I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-- l. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a work-carryin g clamp, a needle and concomitant parts forstitchin g work held in the workclamp, means for producing jogging movements of the needle of different amplitudes;

.and a feed-cam for producing a longitudinal movement of the work-clamp, said feed-cam having dwells at opposite points for suspending the longitudinal movement of the workclamp while the amplitude of the jogging movementof the needle is increased, substantially as described.

2. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a needle and concomitant parts, means for automatically producing a jogging movement of different amplitudes in the needle, a workcarrying clamp, a feed-cam for producing a longitudinal movement ofthe said clamp, said cam having dwells for suspending longitudinal motion at certain times, and a changecam for shifting the work-clamp transverselyto change the position of stitches relatively to the middle line of the work-clamp to secure the disposition of stitches equally across said line, substantially as described.

3. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with sewing mechanism and a work-clamp, of means for producing a feed lengthwise of a buttonhole, means for producing a relative jogging movement between the needle and work-clamp to form side stitches and a relative jogging movement of greater amplitude between the needle and workclamp to form barring-stitches, means to suspend the lengthwise feed of the work-clamp at about the time barring-stitches are to be formed, and a change-cam for shifting the work-clamp transversely, when the lengthwise feed is suspended, to secure the disposition of barring-stitches equally across the center line of the buttonhole and to securethe proper disposition of the side stitches, substantially as described.

4. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a needle and concomitant parts, means for producing automatically a jogging movement of different amplitudes in the needle, a heartshaped feed-cam having` concentric arcs at its smallest and largest radii for sus-pending longitudinal motion at certain times, and a change-cam composed of two short concentric arcs of equal radii and two long intermediate arcs having radii different from each other, and both different from the radii of the shorter arcs, the said two cams being so positioned with relation to each other as that the short arcs of the change-cam will operate at about the time the concentric arcs of the feed-cam are operating, substantially as described.

5. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a needle and concomitant parts, a cam for jogging the needle and varying the amplitude of its jogging movement, a Work-carrying clamp, a feed-cam for moving the same in the direction of its length, and a change-cam for moving the clamp transversely to vary the position of Ithe stitches with reference to its middle longitudinal line, the said cams being so constructed and positioned relatively to each other as that the short arcs of the change-cam will operate at about the time that the changecam will shift the clamp and cause stitches to be made across its longitudinal middle line, the feed-cam will suspend the longitudinal movement of the work-clamp, and the cam for jogging the needle will change the amplitude of the jogging movement, substantially as described.

6. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a needle and concomitant parts, a cam for jogging the needle, another cam for varying the amplitude of its jogging movement, a cutter, and a cutter-controller adjustably connected to the last said cam, substantially as described.

7. In a sewing-machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism and feeding mechanism, of a protuberance affixed to the driving-shaft, a stop extending adjacent to and adapted to engage said protubcrance, a

spring-actuated rod connected to said stop, a projection on said rod, a lever engaging said rod to move the stop ont of operative position, a second lever to engage said rod to hold the latter when moved by said first-named lever, means actuated by the feeding mechanism to release said second lever from engagement with said rod at the end of the stitching operation, and a finger on the first-named lever adapted to engage with said projection for locking the stop so that the said protuberance will engage with the stop as the protuberancc is rotated, substantially as described.

8. In a sewingmachine the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of mec-hanism for suspendingthe operation of the stitchforming mechanism at a predetermined period comprising a disk affixed to the drivingshaft of the machine and having a protuberance upon one face, a stop extending adjacent to said disk, and means, comprising a rod having a finger and a spring-actuated lever having means adapted to engage with said iinger, for locking the stop so that the protuberance on the disk Will engage With it as the disk is rotated, substantially as described.

9. In a sewing-machine the combination with stitch-forming mechanism of mechanism forsuspending the operation of the stitchforming mechanism at a predetermined period comprising a driving-shaft, a disk moving with said shaft and having a protuberancc upon one face, a stop adjacent to said face, means, comprising a spring-actuated reciprocating rod that has a projection, for operating said stop, and a spring-actuated lever, said lever being located to have a part move in the rear of said projection when the rod carrying the latter moves the stop to finally engage with the protuberance, thereby preventing the protuberance moving the stop, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence ol' two subscribing witnesses.

JAMES T. HOGAN. lVitnesses:

ERNEST lIoPKINsoN, S. II. DILLoNr.