US613471A

US613471A - Sewing-machine

Info

Publication number: US613471A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1898-11-01
Anticipated expiration: 1915-11-01

Description

No. 613,471. Patented Nov. l, |898. F. H. RICHARDS.

\ SEWING MACHINE. (Application led Sept. 5, 1896. Renewed Apu 13, 1898.)

(No Model.)

4 Sheets- Sheet l.

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No. 613,47l. Patented Nin/.1, |898. F. H. RICHARDS.

SEWING MACHINE.

(Application led Sept. 5, 1896. Renewed Apr. 13, 1898..' (No Model.) 4 Sheets-Sheet 2.

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TN: Norms PETERS no. menu muo.4 WASHINGTON. o. c.

No. 6|3,47|. Patented Nov. l, 189s.

F. H. RICHARDS. SEWING MACHINE.

('Apialcation led Sept, 5, 1898. Renewed Apr. 18, 189B.) (No Model.) 4 Sheets-Sheet 3.

THE Nonms PETERS no.. Mmc-Uma., WASHINGTON. n. cv

Patented Nov. l, 1898.

F. H. RICHARDS. l SEWING MACHINE. (Application #led Se-ptv, 1896. Renew-ed Apr. 13, 189B.)

4 Sheets-Sheet 4.

(No Model.)

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. duce a double seam from separate and indei UNITED STATES PATENT 'mcn FRACIS H. RICHARDS, OF HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT;

SEWING-MACHINE SPECIFICATION'forming part of Letters Patent No. 613,471, dated November 1, 189. Application led September 5, 1896. Renewed April 13, 1898. Serial No. 677,521. (No model.)

To afl-Z whom t may concern:

Be it known that I, FRANCIS H. RICHARDS, a citizen of the United States, residing at Hartford, in theV county of Hartford and State of Connecticut, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines, of which the following is a specilication.

This invention relates to sewing-machines, the object thereof being to provide-a machine having improved mechanism operable to propendent threads ,by means of an improved stitch.

vide an improved sewing-machine in which the stitch-forming mechanism will comprise a plurality of alternately-acting needle mechanisms operative at each side, respectively, of 'a looper mechanism.

A further object of the invention is to construct a sewing-machine provided with an improved rotatable looper having a plurality of oppositely-disposed loop-takers, all working in the same direction and one or more continuously with each needle of a plurality of needle mechanisms.

A further object of the invention is to provide an improved rotatable looper having a plurality of oppositely-disposed alternatelyoperative loop-takers, all workin g in the same direction and cooperating with apair of alternately-operable needles, whereby a loop formed by one needle from one thread will be engaged by the looper and carried entirely around the same to permit a loop formed by the other needle from a separate and independent thread to be carried through the same to thereby form a stitch in which the alternating loopsof the two rows of stitches will extend one through the other and thus form a double seam having the alternating stitches or loops thereof made of different threads, and whereby the fabric will have on one of its sides two relatively remote rows of parallel single stitches and on its opposite side a series of diagonally or obliquely disposed double stitches forming loops extending crosswise of the two rows of parallel stitches, the bight of each loop engaging its companion loop intermediate of its ends.

yA further object of the invention is to provide an improved loop-take-up mechanism cooperative with a series of alternately-oper'- ative needles and a rotatable looper.

In the drawings accompanying and formving part of this specification, Figure l is a plan view of one construction of this improved machine, parts of the bed-plate being broken away. Fig. 2 is a front view thereof, partly broken away and showin g parts in section. Fig. 3 is an end view of the machine, looking toward the right of Fig. 2. Fig. 4 is also an end View of the machine, looking toward the left of Fig. 2. Fig. 5 is a top View of the throat-plate and bed-plate broken out A further object of the invention is to prov for the purpose of more clearly illustrating the feed mechanism. Fig. 6 is a transverse sectional view taken in line ad, Fig. 2. Fig. 7 is a horizontal sectional view taken in line b b, Fig. 2, and shows one means of connecting the needle-bars and their actuating-levers. Fig. 8 is an end View, on an enlargedscale, of the looper and feed mechanism, looking -toward the right of Fig. 2.V Fig. 9 is a view of the same, looking toward the right of Fig. S. Fig. 10 is likewise a view of the same, looking toward the left of Fig. 8. Fig. l1 is a detail of one of the looper-actuating members'or bars. Fig. 12 is an end view thereof. Figs. 13 to 2l, inclusive, are a series of detail views illustrating the various positions of the needles and looper andthe manner of forming-this improved seam and stitch. Fig. 22 is a view of a piece of work, showing the upper side with this improved double seam and stitch. Fig. 23 is an under side View of the same, and Fig. 24 is a transverse sectional view of the looper detached.

Similar characters designate like parts in all the figures of the drawings.

As a preface to a description of this improved sewing-machine it will be understood that while it is shown adapted to form a'chainstitch it may also be used, if desired, to form a lock chain-stitch by employing a rotatable looper adapted to carry a bobbin, and it will also be understood that the supporting parts and minor details of mechanism of this improved machine may be widely varied without departing from the scope of this invention.

This improved sewing-machine comprises in a general way needle mechanism (designated generally by A) embodying a plurality of alternately-operable needles, looper mech- IOO anism (designated in a general way by B) embodying a plurality of oppositely-disposed loop-takers, all operative in the same direction, and which needle mechanism and looper mechanism combined constitute stitch-forming mechanism (designated in a general way by C) having or embodying means for actuating the same, feed mechanism (designated in a general way by D) likewise having o1' embodying suitable means for actuating and adjusting the same, and loop-take-up mechanism, (designated in a general way by E.)

The framework of the machine, which may be of any suitable construction adapted for the purpose, is herein shown, however, in its preferred form, comprising a horizontal bedplate 2, having a pair of downwardly-extending brackets 3 and 4, one of which, as 3, is preferably in the nature of a chambered casing for supporting the mechanisms hereinafter set forth, a removable throat-piece 5 at one end thereof, an upright support 6 at the opposite end thereof, and a horizontal support 7, joined thereto, said supports forming the arm 10 of the machine, which is preferably shown as a skeleton arm, having at the outer end thereof a machine-head 11, disposed in vertical alinement with the throatplate 5.

The needle mechanism A, which forms a part of the stitch-formin g mechanism C, in its preferred construction herein shown and described, comprises a pair of needle bars or carriers as and y, each adapted to receive a needle, as .fr and y, which may be secured thereto in any suitable way, such as by clamping devices or set-screws 12, and which needle bars or carriers are mounted for reciprocation in suitable bearings in the machine-head 11 in any desired way, herein shown, however, disposed one in front of the other and therefore side by side. The needle-bars are preferably provided at their upper ends with thread-takeup devices, herein shown as downwardly-extending

arms

13 and 14, having thread-receiving eyes or

loops

15 and 16 at their free ends, and which thread-takeup devices may, if desired, constitute a part of the loop-take-up mechanism E, hereinafter described. As one means for operating these needle-bars and thereby reciprocating the needles alternately, which means may form, if desired, a part of the needle mechanism and therefore preferably a part of the stitch-forming mechanism, each needle-bar is connected with a cam member by means of suitable actuating levers. This cam member has a single annular camgroove 21, so formed that it will accomplish the desired reeiprocatory movements of the needles and permit one needle to be at the highest point in its stroke while the other needle is at the lowest point thereof, whereby both needles have the same speed during their ascending movements as in their descending movements, thus resulting in a perfectly even stroke of each needle at all times, and which cam 20 is mounted on a driving-shaft 22, journaled at one end in the bracket 4. The shaft 22 preferably constitutes the means for impartingmotion to the feed and looper mechanism hereinafter set forth, and is therefore journaled in its opposite end in the casingbracket 3, and herein shown adapted to receive motion `from the usual driving-pulley 23 and hand-wheel 24, disposed ou the outer end of said shaft 22.

Each of the actuating-

levers

25 and 26 consists 4of a pair of arms, as 27 and 28 and 29 and 30, respectively, and one lever is disposed at each side of the machine-arm and pivotally secured in position by pivot devices, such as screws 31, extending through hubs 25' and 26', respectively, of said levers and entering threaded apertures in the arm. The lower end of each

lever

28 and 30 is provided with an antifriction roll or bearing 32, operative in thecam-groove 21, one at each side of the cam, and the outer end of each

arm

27 and 29 is pivotally secured to the needle-bars and y', for which purpose the machine-head is shown open at each side thereof.

In order that each needle-bar will have the same equal stroke and also be prevented from torsional movement,the needle-bars are shown ixedlysecured byclampingscrews orpinsto guide-blocks 33,workin gin the m achine-head, and each of which guide-blocks has a bearin gface 34 in engagement with an inner wall of said head 11, whereby torsional movement thereof is prevented. These blocks are provided with crank-

arms

35 and 36, to which the ends of the actuating-levers are pivotally secured by means of pivotal devices or screws 39, extending through suitable slots in the ends of said levers, and which pivotal devices 39 thereby form journals for said levers and are adapted to prevent lateral movement thereof. These crank-

arms

35 and 36 are so disposed relatively to each other by having each project inwardly from the bearing-faces 34 of said guide-blocks that the axes of the journals 39 are in alinement with each other, thus securing an equal stroke of the needles by the use of one cam only having one camgroove.

In the structure shown the arms 2S and 30 project through suitable slots 28' and 30 of the bed-plate 2, the walls of which tend to hold the antifriction-rolls 32 in engagement with the cam-groove.

Mounted within the machine-head in any desired way is the usual presser-foot or fabricclamp. In the preferred form, however, herein shown the head has a pair of extensions or brackets and 46, bored for the reception of the presser-foot bar 47, which is provided with a collar 48, adj ustably secured thereon and between which and an adjusting-nut 49, carried by a threaded end of said bar, is disposed aspiral spring for giving the required pressure to the foot. By means of this nut 49 the tension of the spring can be regulated. The presser-foot bar 47 is shown provided IOO IIO

with a transversely-extending pin 5l, adapted to'be engaged by the usual lifting-lever 52, pivotally secured to the bracket 46 and provided with a cam-face 53 for engaging said pin, whereby the presser-foot can be raised and lowered.

In order to prevent torsional movement of the presser-foot, one of the brackets, as 46, is shown provided with a slot 54, in which Works a cross-pin 55, fiXedly secured to the presserfoot bar 47, whereby the presser-foot is held from turning,as above set forth. The presserfoot 56, which may be secured to the bar 47 in any well-known way, is preferably somewhat wider, however, than the usual presserfoot of single-needle machines and in its preferred form is provided with a pair of parallel slots, one for the passage of each of the two needles.

The looper mechanism B, in its preferred construction shown, comprises a dish-shaped member 60, having adjacent to its periphery a plurality of loop-takers, preferably in the nature of hooks 6l, for engaging the loops of the needle-threads and may be supported below the throat-plate 5 in any desired manner for rotary movement. In the construction shown, however, this looper is peripherally supported for rotary movement intermediate of the needles, and for this purpose the casing-bracket 3, which bracket has a cylindrical chamber 59, extending from end to end thereof, having the upper part of its wall cut away, Fig. 8, to permit a clear unobstructed space at the upper part of the shuttle contiguous'to the throat-plate is shown having its entire outer segmental end formed with an inclined or beveled edge 63, thereby forming one member of a race or track for the looper. Removably secured to the end of this casing by suitable fastening devices, such as screws 64, is a partly-circular plate 65, likewise having an inclined or beveled inner edge 66, thereby constituting the other member of a race or track, and whereby when it is in position on the casing a race or track 66', substantially V-shaped in cross-section, is formed for the peripheral track of the looper, which is likewise of wedge or V shape in cross-section, whereby it will accurately fit into its race for rotary movement therein. This track 66 eX- tends sufficiently far around in circular direction to properly support the looper throughout its rotary movement and prevent lateral movement thereof.

Thelooper is provided, as above stated, with a plurality or series of loop-takers 6l for engaging the needle-threads of the needles, and which in the preferred form shown comprise hooks formed in the periphery thereof, and which'plurality or series of hooks comprehends in this construction a pair of hooks, as m and n, disposed one at each side of the peripheral line of the looper, whereby they will be oppositely disposed relatively to each other and also disposed so that" they will act in alternation with each .otherthat is to say, the hook at one side of the peripheral line of the looper will act with the needle operating at that side, and then the hook at the opposite side thereof will act with the other needle of the pair of needles. In the present construction these loop-takers or hooks m and n are shown diametrically opposite to each other, whereby they are also oppositely disposed relatively to the diameter of said looper and are formed by recesses or spaces 67 and 68, extending transversely through the looper, adjacent to the track portion thereof, said hooks having their loop-engaging faces or points extending in opposite directions-that is to say, the hook m', formed by one recess, as 67, will have its loop-engaging face or point adjacent to one side of the peripheral line of the looper, while its companion hook, as fn', formed by a similar recess, as 68, will have is loop-engaging face or point adjacent to the opposite side of the peripheral line of said looper, whereby the loop-engaging faces or points of said pair of hooks extend in alternately-opposite directions relatively to the peripheral line of the looper, both, however, projecting in the same circumferential direction, so that when the looper is in position with one needle operating on one side of said looper and the other at the opposite side thereof it will be seen that one hook will operate continuously with one needle of the pair, while the other hook will operate continuously with the other needle, both hooks, however, working in the same direction.

In order that the 'loop taken by one hook and drawn out around the looper will not have one of its side threads caught by the opposite hook when in position to take a loop, Fig. 14, the looper is shown provided, on each side thereof, adjacent to each hook-

formative recess

67 and 68, with a projection 70, preferably conically shaped, with a curved or rounded surface. Each of these projections is so formed that the largest part thereof projects outwardly in the same direction as its adjacent hook, whereby that side of a drawn-out loop nearest the other hook will be spread apart and be held away from the same while it is carrying a new loop through such drawnout loop, Fig. l5. Owing to the conical formation and curved surface of these projections the loop will slide over thesame with ease and rapidity in the rotary movement of the looper.

It will be understood that if it is desired to form a lock chain-stitch a `looper or shuttle adapted to receive a bobbin may be used, as hereinbefore set forth. As one means for imparting rotary movement to said looper and which means may, if desired,`form a part of the looper mechanism, and therefore preferably a part of the stitch-forming mechanism, said looper is shown provided with a series of four transversely-extending apertures forming driver-

sockets

7l, 72, 73, and 74, disposed equidistantly apart and which may or may IOO IIO

IIS

not extend entirely through the same, according tothe width and form of looper used, and which sockets are adapted to receive the drivers hereinafter set forth.

The bracket 3, as hereinbefore stated, is shown as a casing having a cylindrical chamber 59, whereby it is adapted to support parts of the feed and looper actuating means hereinafter set forth. The driving-shaft 22 is shown having a relatively large end journaled in the chamber of this casing for rotary movement, and which end is provided Witha series of longitudinal substantially T-shaped slots or grooves 76, Fig. G, for the reception of a series of sliding drivers or driving members or bars 77, corresponding in number with the driver-sockets of the looper, and hence shown as four in number. These drivers or driving members 77 are constructed to conform tothe shape of the slots, and hence comprise, substantially, T-shaped members or bars adapted to slide in such slots, and each of which is provided at its end with a driverpin 7 8, adapted to work in the driver-sockets, to thereby impart rotary movement to the looper on the rotation of the shaft carrying such driving members. As a means for sliding these drivers into and out of engagement with the driver-sockets of the looper to thereby permit the passage of the loops at the proper time while being drawn out around said looper each sliding bar is shown provided with a transversely-extendin g stud or pin 7 9,adapted to work in a cam-groove SO, formed in the interior wall of the casing 3, and which groove is so shaped and the driver-sockets so disposed relatively thereto that all of the driverpins 78 will at no time bein engagement with the driver-sockets of the looper, and whereby in the present construction the pins will engage and disengage their respective driversockets adjacent to the horizontal axis of the looper, whereby they remain in engagement therewith while said looper is being actuated through the lower half of its track, whereby the drawing out of the loops around the looper will not be impeded, as the threads of such loops in being drawn out and taken up will pass between the ends of the drivers and the looper while such drivers are out of their driver-sockets in a manner that will be readily understood without further description thereof. It will be obvious, however, that the cam-groove can be so disposed that the drivers will be caused to engage and disengage their driver-sockets at any desired point.

The feed mechanism D in this improved construction of sewing-machine comprises in a general way a series of levers, actuatingcams, and springs, and in the preferred form thereof herein shown and described the casing-bracket 3 is shown longitudinally bored at one side of its chamber 59 for the reception of a rock-shaft S5, which is journaled at one end therein and at its opposite end in a bracket 86, secured to the bed-plate of the machine.

Fixedly secured on the outer end of the' shaft for rocking movement therewith is a crank-arm S7, extending upwardly at one side of the casing-chamber, the outer wall of which is recessed for this purpose.

Pivotally secured to the upper end of the crank-arm S7 isahorizontally-extending feed lever or bar S8, having a series of serrations or feed-dogs 89, preferably formed integral therewith, although it is understood that such feed-dogs might be formed on a plate and removably or otherwise secured to said bar, if desired. This bar extends below the usual throat-opening of the throat-plate 5 and above the rotatable looper, to thereby permit the feed-dogs to be in their proper positions at the throat-opening thereof, the under side of said bar being semicircularly recessed to permit the close proximity of the looper to the feed-dogs. This feed-dog lever is provided with a slot for the passage of the needles. The outer or free end of this feed-bar is held in position to permit the same to always feed the fabric at the proper time, and for this purpose the casing is longitudinally bored, at that side thereof opposite to the rock-shaft 85, to form a journalbearing 91 for the reception of a second roekshaft 92. The outer end of this rock-shaft is provided with an outwardly-extendin g crankarm 93, working in a recess of the casing and terminating in a bifurcated member or bracket 94 for the reception of the free end of said feed-bar SS and in which it slides on the actuation of the rock-shaft 85, said feed-bar being held against displacement by a suitable spring, such as a flat spring 95, herein shown fixedly secured to the under side of the throat-plate, whereby its free end rests on the upper side of the feed-bar and by means of which said bar will not only be held against displacement, as above set forth, but will always be returned into inoperative position in readiness for the next feed after it has been moved upward to feed the fabric by the means hereinafter set forth.

In order to actuate the feed-bar and thereby its dogs, to secure thereto the required movement in an elliptical path or obtain what is usually termed a four-way feed for the fabric or work, suitable cam mechanism is preferably provided and herein shown cal'- ried on the driving-shaft 22. For this purpose the rock-shaft S5 is provided with an arm 96, secured thereto and carrying an antifriction roll or bearing 97 at its free end in position to be engaged by a pair of camengaging faces 99, carried by a cam member 100, mounted on said shaft 22 for rotation therewith, and which cam-faces 99 will engage said roll 97 and force the same downward, Fig. S, and thus throw the feed-bar and its dogs forward to feed the work, the return or backward movement thereof being accomplished by means of a suitable spring, herein shown as a spiral spring l0l,mounted on the rock-shaft S5 and having one end there- IOO IIO

of fixedly secured to the casing 3 and its opposite end in engagement with the shaft, whereby the feed-dogs will always be returned into position for the next feed after the disengagement of the cam-faces 99 with the roll 97. In order, however, to properly clamp the feed-dogs against the fabric, so that the same can feed the work on the operation of the rock-shaft 85 and feed-bar 88, a second cam 102 is mounted on the shaft 22 for rotation therewith and is likewise provided with two cam-faces 103, adapted to engage an antifriction roll or bearing 104C, carried on the end of an arm 105, secured to the rock-shaft 92, whereby the feed-dogs will be moved upward against the tension of the ilat spring .95, to thereby clamp the work, said spring 95 returning the same downward by its action on the feed-bar after the disengagement of the cam-faces 103 with the roll 104 in a manner that will be readily understood without further description thereof.

It will be understood that the dispositions of the cam-faces 99 and 103 are such that the feed-dogs are preferably first moved upward to clamp the work and then forward to feed the same, although it is obvious that such actions might be practically` simultaneous. From the foregoing it will be seen that both cams are provided with the samek number of cam-faces and that the cam-faces on each cam correspond with the number of needles,where by there will be one feed for each needle after the same leaves the fabric and before the other needle enters the same, andhence while both needles are out of the work.

In order to adjust the feed-dogs to thereby regulate the feed of the same, an adjusting device is disposed in position to engage the crank-arm 87, Aand is herein shown comprising an adjustable screw 105', vcarried ,-by a bracket 106, and which adjusting device 'is provided with a lock-nut. 107', whereby the screw can be locked against movement. The inner end of this adjusting device engages the crank-arm 87, and which arm is held in engagement therewith by the action of the spring 101, whereby on manipulating the screw the length of throw of the feed-dogs will be regulated.

From the foregoing it will be seen that on the rotation of the driving-shaft 22 the transversely-extending pins 7 9 of the sliding bars 77, acting in the groove 80 of the casing,will tend to move said bars inward and outward to engage the driver-sockets of the looper, and thus rotate the same simultaneouslywith the rotation of such driving-shaft and simultaneously with the reciprocation of the needlebars. At the same time the

cammembers

100 and 102, mounted on the driving-shaft, will rotate therewith to bring their cam-faces 99 and 103 into engagement with the antifriction-rolls of the crank-arms of the

rockshafts

85 and 92, and thus feed the work at the proper time.

Each, needle-thread is carried by a

separate spool

205 and 206, the spool-spindles thereof, 107 and 108, being carried on the machinearm 10 in the usual manner.

As a means for guiding the threads from the spools a guide device, herein shown in the nature of a bar 109, having a pair of eyes at one end thereof, through which the threads run, is disposed on the arm 10 adjacent to said spools. A similar guide device 110, having a pair of eyes at its outer end, is likewise disposed adjacent to the machine-head.

Suitable tension devices are provided for the threads, and in the present construction thereof they are shown disposed at one side of the arm 10, and each preferably comprises a pair of non-rotatable clamping members or

disks

112 and 112 and 113 and 113', respectively, disposed side by side and secured for lateral adjustment on the end of a spindle 114 by a nut 115, a tension-spring 116 being interposed between thel inner disk or member ,113 and a plate 117, carried by said spindle.

An additional tension or guide device may be secured adjacent to the lower end of each ,needle-bar and y' and also adjacent to the lower end of the machine-head, if desired; but in the present construction only a pair of guide eyes or

loops

118 and 119 are shown in position at the points indicated for guiding the threads, and which eyes or loops may be formed as spirals or in any other desired way. It will be understood that in practice other tension means and guide devices may be substituted for those herein shown and described, if desired. It will also be further understood that in practice other suitable means might be used for rotating the looper and for actuating the needles and that other feed mechanism might also be used, if desired.

In the operation of this improved sewingmachine, in order to form the particular character of stitch herein set forth, motion having been imparted to the driving-pulley from any suitable source of power,.the needle -g/ will be caused to descend at one side of the looper, carrying with it one of the threads, as s, through the fabric, which on the inauguration of the upward movement of the needle forms a loop which will be taken by one of the hooks, as n', at one side of the looper and carried completely around the same for the purpose of having a loop from the opposite needle carried therethrough, said looper moving in the direction of the arrow. After the loop has been taken by the looper and carried partly around, however, and its needle has ascended above the fabric and while the opposite needle is descending the feed of the work takes place. When the hook fn. has carried the loop substantially one-half way around the looper, Figs. 13, 14, and 15, the opposite needle w has completely descended and commenced its return movement, thereby forming a second loop from the thread t, which is taken by the loop-taker m' at the opposite side of thelooper, both as regards the periph- IZO eral line thereof and also the diameter of the same, as heretofore set forth, and carried through the first loop, Figs. 1G, 17, and 18, and when such second loop has been carried partly around the looper the feed again takes place, and when carried one-half way around, Figs. 19, 20, and 21, the first loop has been drawn out of its loop-taker and taken up close to the under side of the fabric in the manner hereinafter set forth, while the needle y has again completely descended and commenced its return, thereby forming the third loop of the series of stitches.

From the above it will be seen that there will be olle feed for each needle substantially immediately after a hook of the looper has engaged the loop of that needle and while one needle is ascending and the otherdescending, both, however, being out of the work, and it will also be seen that the same needle coacts with the same loop-taker at one side of the looper throughout the entire operation of the machine; that the pair of hooks act in alternation with each other, both working in the same direction; that the hook at one side of the looper is rotated in the present construction half-way around the same before the opposite hook engages a loop, and that each loop-taker engages a loop at each complete rotation of said looper. By this improved stitch-forming mechanism a double seam is formed in which the alternating diagonally-disposed loops of the stitches are made of different threadsthat is to say, all of the diagonally-extending loops of one row of stitches are made of one thread, while all the loops of the opposite row of stitches are made of another thread, such loops, however, alternating with each other, whereby a chain-stitch is formed in which each loop of the series of loops will extend through a companion loop, or, in other words, in which the alternating loops of the two rows of stitches will extend one through the other, whereby the fabric has on one or the upper side thereof two relatively remote rows of parallel single stitches and on its opposite side a series of diagonally or obliquely disposed double stitches forming loops extending crosswise of the two rows of parallel stitches, the bight of each loop engaging its companion loop substantially midway of its length, whereby the tension of the threads is equalized throughout.

In that class of sewing-machines having only a single needle and a rotatable looper the first or preceding loop is drawn up close to the under side of the fabric by the action of the looper in drawing out the second or succeeding loop of the series of stitches, as the loops are formed of one continuous thread; but in this improved machine, as each row of stitches is composed of a different thread, it is necessary that some suitable loop-take-up mechanism be provided for drawing up the loop formed by one needle and drawn out by the looper while the opposite needle is forming its loop and having the same drawn out by said looper, and while other means might be used in practice for this purpose in place of that herein shown the present construction of loop-take-up mechanism is, however, adapted to accomplish the purpose satisfactorily. In order, therefore, to take up the loops, the thread of one needle is preferably in operative engagement with the needle-bar of its companion needle, whereby the threads will be crossed intermediate their points of engagement with such bars and the eyes of the needles-that is to say, one thread, as s, of the spool 20G passes through the eye 16 of the thread-take-up device 14 of the needlebar Qc and is then led to the eye of the opposite needle y, while the thread from the other spool 205 passes through the eye 15 of the thread-take-up device 13 of the opposite needle-bar y and is then led to the eye of the needle whereby the loop formed by one needle will be partially drawn up on the ascent of its companion needle, the complete drawing up of such loop not being obtained, however, by the needle-bars in the present construction of machine owing to the fact that each loop when drawn completely out around the looper has a thread at each side thereof, and hence the entire length of the loop is equal to nearly twice the diameter of the looper, whereby in order to completely draw up this length of thread by the needlebars it would be necessary to have said bars move upward a distance substantially equal to the entire length of suclr thread minus that portion thereof necessary to form the stitch and which would be more or less disadvantageous in many ways. In order, therefore, to overcome this requirement and permit the needle to have a comparatively short stroke, such as shown in the present construction, which is sufficient, for instance, to draw up a length of thread equal to about one-half of a completelydrawn out loop, suitable means is provided to assist the needle-bars in obtaining this result, and which means is operable to also draw up a length of thread substantially equal to one-half of a completely-drawn-out loop minus that part thereof necessary to form the stitch, whereby when coacting with the needle-bar it will form loop-take-up mechanism sufficient to completely draw up a loop in the propermanner. This means in the present construction lthereof consists of spring mechanism operable by the action of the looper in drawing out the loops, and which mechanism is herein shown preferably comprising a pair of relatively light spring members or bars 125 and 126, one for each thread, and each of which is provided with an eye or

loop

127 and 128, respectively, at its outer end. These bars are carried on a spindle 129, adjustably secured at any desired place on the machine-arm 10 by means of a set-screw 130 or other suitable device, and have their inner ends 125' and 126 secured to and coiled on said spindle preferably with right and left hand turns, whereby IOO IIO

on the adjustment of the spindle, the outer end of which is provided with a slot for this purpose, the tension of both spring-bars will be simultaneously increased or decreased equally. In order to regulate the positions of said bars, suitable means is provided, preferably comprising a downwardly-eXtendin g arm 131, disposed on the spindle intermediate the spring-coils and adjustable likewise by means of a set-screw 132 or other suitable device, whereby it can be adj usted to correspond with the positions of the spring-bars. This arm is provided atits lower end with a crosspin 133, onwhich the spring members or bars 125 and 126 rest, whereby their downward movements are limited.

In threading the needles of the present construction of machine one thread, as s, is drawn from its spool 206 through one of the guideeyes of the guide-bar 109, thence between one pair of tension-disks,l as 112 and 112', thence through one of the guide-eyes of the other guide-bar 110, thence through the eye 128 of the spring-bar 126, thence through the eye of the thread take-up 14 of the needle-bar au', and thence to the eye of the opposite needle y, while the other thread, as t, is drawn from its spool 205 through the adjacent eyes of the guide-bars 109 and 110, passing intermediate the other tension-disks 113 and 113, thence through the eye 127 of the other spring-bar 125, thence through the eye of the other thread take-up 13 of the needle-bar y', and thence to the eye of the needle x, whereby in the operation of the machine it will be seen that as the needle descends to form a loop from its thread t for the looper it carries with it by means of its thread-take-up device 14 the thread s, running from the needle y, which, for instance, has already formed its loop and which loop is being drawn out around the looper, Figs. 2 and 14, such drawing out of the loop being accomplished while the needle-bar carrying said thread s of said loop, is descending. As the entire downward stroke of the needle w, however, is only equal to about one-h alf of a com pletely-drawn-out loo p,therefore without the use of the spring-

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125 and 126 there would only be sucient thread to permit the loop to be carried substantially one-quarter way around the'looper on the complete downward stroke ofv the needle unless additional thread sufficient to form the other half of such drawn-out loop is draw-n from the spool, in which case the greater part of the thread so drawn therefrom would notbe again taken up, as the upward stroke of the needle would only be suflicient to take up the same length of thread that is drawn out by the looper in the downward movement of said needle. Therefore during a'portion of the downward stroke of the needle 0o to form its. loop for the looper the spring-bar 126 coacts 'therewith by the rotative movement of said looper and is drawn up sufficiently far, 2, to permit the looper to nearly completely draw out the loop of said threadsin order to carryit around the same, and when said loop is nearly completely drawn out or nearly half-way around the looper the spring-bar 126 will be substantially equal in tension tothe main tension device, and hence the further movement of the looper in completely drawing out the loop draws sufiicient thread from the spool to form the length of stitch without further actuating the spring-bar upward. When this loop of the needle y is thus half-way around the looper, a second loop has been received by the looper from the needle Figs. 14 and 15, said needle continuing to move upward, Figs. 17 and 18, and thus partially drawing up the previouslyformed or iirst loop of said needleyand which is now being carried from its drawn-out position bythe looper toward its starting-point, the spring 126 simultaneously acting with such needle-bar :1c and returning toward its normal position, whereby the loop is completely drawn up on the under side of the fabric, as the combined movement of the needle-bar on its ascent and the return movement of the spring is substantially equal to the entire length of the thread of a completely-drawn-out loop minus that portion thereof which is necessary to form the stitch. As the action of the opposite needle-bar is similar to that just described, it will thus be seen from the foregoing that a descending needle-bar carries by means of its threadtake-up device that particular thread which is being formed into a loop for the looper and drawn out by said looper, and that when the needle is on its return movement and ascending the looper has completely drawn out the loop of the opposite needle and carried it half-way around or into the prop'er position to be drawn up, and that the spring-bars coact therewith on the downward movement of the needles to permit the looper to properly draw out the loop and on the upward movement thereof to take up such loop. The double seam formed by this improved stitch, while adapted for various kinds of work, is particularly so for knitted wear-such as undershirts, drawers, &c.--in which a comparatively loose seam is preferred.

Having described my-invention, I claim-- 1. ln a sewing-machine, the combination, with a looper provided with loop-takersoppositcly disposed with relation to the peripheral line thereof and all operative in the same direction, of means for actuating said looper; needle-bars carrying needles, one operative on each side of the looper; and means for actuating said needle-bars.

2. In a sewing-machine, the combination, with a rotary looper having hooks oppositely disposed relatively tothe periphery thereof, of a pair of vertically-reciprocatory alternately-operable needle-bars carrying needles disposed in position to operate at each side, respectively, of said looper; and means for actuating said looper and needle-bars..

.3. In a sewing-machine, the combination,

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with a rotary looper having a pair of looptakers oppositely disposed with relation to the periphery thereof and both operative in the same direction; of a pair of needle-bars carrying needles, one operative on each side of said looper; and actuating means for said looper and for said needle-bars.

-L In a sewing-machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism comprisinga looper havinga loop-taker located at each side thereof, said loop-takers working in the same direction; alternately-operable needle-bars carrying needles cooperating with the looper at each side of said looper; and means for actuating said looper and said needle-bars.

5. The combination of feed mechanism for a sewing-1n achine, comprising a driving-shaft carrying a pair of cams each of which has a pair of cam-faces; a pair of rock-shafts, one in operative engagement with the cam-faces of each of said cams; a feed-bar pivotally secured at one end to one of said rock-shafts and provided with a serrated surface and having its opposite end in engagement with the other rock-shaft; a spring carried by one of said rock-shafts; and a spring in operative engagement with the feed-bar, said springs being operable to release the feed-bar from the fabric and return the same into position for the next feed.

G. In a sewing-machine, lthe combination of a looper having a pair of loop-takers oppositely disposed with relation to the peripheral line of said looper and one being located at each side thereof and both operative in the same direction; needle mechanism operative on each side of the looper; feed mechanism; and means for actuating said looper7 needle, and feed mechanisms.

7. Ina sewing-machine, the combination of framework; a peripherally-supported looper having a pair of hooks one hook disposed at each side of the peripheral line thereof and said hooks being operative in alternation with each other, and each having its loop-en gagin g portion or point projecting in the same circumferential direction, whereby they are both operative in the same direction; needle mechanism feed mechanism operative on each side of the looper; and means for actuating said looper, needle, and feed mechanisms.

S. In a sewing-machine, the combination, with framework, of a driving-shaft journaled therein; a rotary looper having a pair of hooks one operative on each side thereof and both operative in the same direction; means carried by said driving-shaft, for actuating the looper; needle mechanism comprising a pair of alternately-operable needle-bars, one operative on each side of the looper; a cam mounted on the driving-shaft; a pair of oscillatory levers connecting said cam; and needle-bars; feed mechanism; and means also carried by the driving-shaft, for actuating the feedv mechanism.

0. In a sewing-machine, the combination of framework; a driving-shaft journaled for rotation therein; a rotatable looper having a pair of hooks oppositely disposed relatively to the peripheral line thereof and both operative in the same direction; means carried by said driving-shaft, for actuating said looper; needle mechanism comprising a pair of altermately-operable needle-bars one operative on each side of the looper; a 4cam mounted on said driving-shaf t a pairof oscillatory levers connecting said cam and needle-bars, for reciprocating the same; feed mechanism; and means also carried by said drivin g-shaf t, for actuating said feed mechanism.

lO. A looper' for a sewing-machine, comprising a circular member having a pair of diametricallyoppositely disposed loop-takers one disposed at each side of the peripheral line thereof, and both of said loop-takers having their loop-engaging faces extending in the same circumferential direction,whereby when in operation they will work in the same direction to engage loops of different needlethreads.

ll. A looper for a sewing-machine, comprising a circular member having a pair of loop-takers oppositely disposed relatively to the peripheral line thereof, and a conieallyshaped projection at each side of said looper adjacent to each loop-taker and adapted to enlarge a loop on its passage around said looper.

12. In a sewing-machine, the combination of framework embodying a chambered casing having a cam-groove on its interior; a looper supported for rotation and having driversockets; a rotatable member journaled in said casing and having T-shaped slots; and looper-drivers sliding in said slots and each comprising a sliding T-shaped bar adapted to engage the driver-sockets of the looper and having a transversely-extending stud working in said cam-groove, whereby on the operation of said rotatable member the drivers will be operated into position to engage the sockets of the looper to rotate the same.

13. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a rotatable looper; a pair of alternatelyoperable needle-bars carrying needles; looptake-up mechanism comprising a threadtake-up device carried by each needle-bar and each adapted to carry the thread of the opposite needle, whereby the loop formed by one needle and drawn out by the looper will be partially drawn up by its companion needle-bar; spring mechanism operable to assist in taking up the loops; and actuating means for said looper and needles.

1i. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a rotatable looper; a pair of alternatelyoperable needle-bars carrying needles; looptake up mechanism comprising a threadtake-up device carried by each needle-bar and each adapted to carry the thread of the opposite needle, whereby the loop formed by one needle and drawn out by the looper will be partially drawn up by its companion needle-bar; a pair of spring members, one

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operable with each needle-bar to assist in taking up the drawn-out loops; and actuating means for said looper andneedles.

15. Loop-take-up' mechanism for a sewingmachine, embodying as a part thereof an adj ustable spindle; a pair of independently-acting spring members having their inner ends secured to and coiled on said spindle and provided with thread-loops at their outer ends; and an arm adjustable on said spindle and having a cross-pin at its lowervend for limiting the downward movement of said bars.

16. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a rotatable looper; a pair of alternatelyoperable needle-bars carrying needles and having thread-take-up devices each adapted to carry the thread of the 4opposite needle; means operable on the actuation of said needle-bars to assist the thread-take-up devices in taking up the loops drawn out by said looper; and means for actuating said looper and needle-bars.

17. In a sewing-machine, the combination with a rotatable looper having a pair of looptakers oppositely disposed relatively to the peripheral line thereof and both operative in the same direction; a pair of alternately-operable needle-bars carrying needles and each operative with one of said loop-takers and at one side of said looper; means for actuating said looper and needle-bars; and loop-takeup mechanism comprising a thread-take-up device carried by each needle-bar and each adapted to carry the thread of the opposite needle; and means coacting with said needlebar take-up devices, whereby the loops drawn out by the looper will be drawn up close to the under side of the fabric to thereby form the stitch.

FRANCIS H. RICHARDS.

Witnesses:

FRED. J. DOLE, HENRY BissELL.