US595171A - hawes - Google Patents

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US595171A
US595171A US595171DA US595171A US 595171 A US595171 A US 595171A US 595171D A US595171D A US 595171DA US 595171 A US595171 A US 595171A
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buttonhole
carrier
work
buttonholes
needles
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B3/00Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing
    • D05B3/06Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing for sewing buttonholes

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Description

(No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet 1. H. E. HAWES.
MULTIPLE BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.
No. 595,171. Patented Deo.7,1897.
/lVVE/Vf? ATTORNEY.
Illllll/ (No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet; 2.
H. E. HAWBS. MULTIPLE BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE. 170.595,171. Patented 1360.7, 1897.
(No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet 3.
I-I. E. IIAWES. MULTIPLE BUTTONIIGLB SEWING MACHINE. No. 595,171. Patented Deo.7,1897.
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(No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet 4. H. E. HAWES. MULTIPLE BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.
110.595,171. Patented Deo. 7,1897.
Il IIlH WITNESSES: /5 www@ @LMA/f7@ A TTOHNEY.
(No Model.)
6 Sheets-Sheet 5.
H. E. HAWBS.
MULTIPLE EUIToNEoLE SEWING MACHINE.
Patented D MMIII ATTORNEY.
Il-E (No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet 6. II. E. IIAWES.
MULTIPLE BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.
Patented Beef-7,1897.
u m l MMM.
ATTORNEY.
UNTTnn STATES PATENT Ormea.
HERBERT E. I'IAIVES, OF BROOKLYN, NEV YORK, ASSIGNOR TO COLBY & OO., OF SAME PLACE.
WlULTIPLE-'BUTTONHOLE-SEWING MACHINE.
SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 595,171, dated December 7, 1897. Application filed January 11, 1897. Serial No. 618,804. (No inodeLl To @ZZ when?, it may concern.-
Be it known that I, HERBERT E. HAWES, a citizen of the United States, residing in Brooklyn, in the county of Kings and State of New York, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Multiple Buttonhole Sewing Machines, of which the following is a speciiication.
rlhis invention relates for the most part to multiple-buttonhole-sewing machines of the kind exampled in Letters Patent No. 363,678, granted to William Randel May 24, 1887, and No. 411,058, granted to Thomas E. Colby November 18, 1890, in which a plurality of buttonhole sewing mechanisms are combined and operated in unison for sewing a number of buttonholes simultaneously in a piece of fabric requiring such number of buttonholesas, for eXample, buttonhole-waistbands for boys trousers, cuffs, collars, (he.
The particular objects of my invention are to provide a multiple-buttonhole machine of this class in which the even and simultaneous descent and elevation of the several sewingneedles will be positively insured, as well as the harmonious operation of the thread-takeup devices and shuttles, and to provide for readily adjusting the several needles and buttonhole work-clamps with respect to each other, so as to sewbuttonholes at different distances apart. I attain these and other ends by various novel 'features of construction and combinations of parts, and in order that my invention may be fully ascertained I shall first describe in. detail the mode in which I carry the invention into practice and then point out its various features in the claims.
Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings, forming part of this specification, in which like parts are designated by the same letters in all the figures.
Figure 1 is an end elevation of a multiplebuttonhole machine embodying my invention. Fig. 2 is an elevation of the opposite end of the same. Fig. 3 is a partial front elevation of the same, partly in section. Fig. 4f is a partial plan view of the same. Fig. 5 is a sectional plan view on' the line 5 5, Fig. Fig. 6 is a sectional plan View on the line 6 6, Fig. 8. Fig. 7 is a sectional plan view on the line 7 7, Fig. S. Fig. S is a sectional view on the line 8 8, Fig. 4. Fig. 9 is a scctional view on the line 9 9, Fig. 3.
A designates the frame of the machine illustrated which I designed for sewing and cutting eight buttonholes abreast of each other in Waistbands for boys trousers at any of the distances apart usually required for the va rious sizes of waistbands on the market, the spaces between the third and fourth buttonholes being usually made greater than those between the remaining buttonholes.
I prefer to construct the frame A with end standards B B', betweenl which I arrange the (in this example of myinvention) eight buttonhole stitching and cutting mechanisms, and which standards I rigidly connect by horizontal bed members O and longitudinal bars D.
In bearings E2 at the upper ends of the end standards B B', I prefer to mount a longitudinal driving-shaft E, carrying a drivingpulley E', and on said driving-shaft I iin at appropriate distances apart a number of thread-take-up cams F, corresponding to the number of (in this instance eight) buttonholes to -be stitched at one time. IVith the respective take-up cams F, I engage threadtake-up levers F', which I pivot to the upper longitudinal bar D of the frame A, so that eight threads will be evenly and simultaneously taken up for the eight buttonhole-sewing mechanisms.
G designates the sewing-needles, which in this instance are eight in number.
In order that the needles G maybe evenly and simultaneously depressed and elevated in harmony with the operation of the threadtake-up devices above described and may be adjusted to work the buttonholes with various spacings, I mount said needles in a horizontal line in holders H, having' each, by preference, an L-slot H' to iit and slide lengthwise on an L-rail H2, formed on a multiple needle-carrier I. The needle-carrier I extends transversely across the entire machine and is arranged to be reciprocated vertically in guides I', iixed on the end standards B B of the frame. Thus the various needle-holders Il may be adj usted with the needles any required distances apart on the carrier-rail H2, and may be secured in such adjustment by set-screws IIS, which I provide in said needle-holders, While the several needles Will be reciprocated With the carrier I in exact unison.
To actuate the reciprocating needle-carrier I by the driving-shaft E, I prefer to connect both ends of the needle-carrier outside the end standards B B' pivotally With rods J, the upper ends of which are strapped to eccentrics J', fixed on the driving-shaft E, so that the several needles G Will be accurately deeach revolution of the driving-shaft.
Beneath each needle G, I erect on the bed members C a longitudinal box K, in Which I prefer to mount in bearings K a shuttle-shaft K2, carrying in this instance an oscillating shuttle K3v of ordinary description to coperate with its respective needle G in forming the stitches, the top of each box K forming the Work-plate K4 for the respective stitchforming mechanism.
To actuate the several shuttles K3 in perfect unison with the needles G, I prefer to form each shuttle-shaft K2 with a crank K5, which I engage in a Well-known manner With the slotted end K6 of a rocking lever K7. I actuate the several rocking levers K7 simultaneously by connecting them pivotally With links KS, the upper'ends of all of which are connected pivotally with a vertically-reciprocating horizontal cross-headv L, which I. mount to Work vertically in guides L', fixed on the end standards B B'.
In order that the shuttles K3 and Workplates K4 may be adj usted transversely to.correspond with the adjustment of the needles before described, I mount the several shuttie-boxes K to slide transversely With the shuttle-shaft bearings on guide-rails A', fixed on the frame A, and I connect the several shuttle-actuating links K8 to headed pivotstuds K2, Which are mounted adjustably in a T-slot K10, running lengthwise of the crosshead L, and may be Iixedin the desired adj ustment by Washers Kuvand binding-n uts K12, so that the shuttle-actuatin g links K8 may be adjusted to correspond Withthe adjustment of the shuttle-shafts K2 and boxes K.
I effect the operation of the vertically-reciprocating shuttle-actuating cross-head L and oscillating shuttles K3 in unison. With the needles G by pivotally connecting both ends.
of the cross-head L outside the standardsB B With bearing-boxes L2, playing in guides L3 on the rear ends of beam-levers L4, which are mounted medially on pivots L5 on the end standards BJB' and the front ends of Which have guides L6, in which play boxes L7, connectedl by pivots with the vertically-reciprocating needle-carrier I, so that the several shuttles will b e oscillatedin exact and proper unison with the reciprocation of the needlecarrier I and needles G.
M designate the several Work-clamps, of which I naturally in this illustration of my invention provide eight and which are all,
actuated simultaneously and in unison by means of a multiple Work-clamp carrier having a buttonhole feed motion generally, as in the aforesaid prior patents to lVm. Randel, No. 363,678, and Thomas E. Colby, No. 441,058; but I prefer to attach the Work-clamps M adjustably to the transverse bar M' of the Workclamp carrier by dovetailing the bar h and fitting it to corresponding slots in the Work- Y clamps M, the outer Walls of said slots being pressed and elevated in a horizontal line With formed by separate clamping-plates M2,Which are secured in place by screws M2,- so that the Work-clamps can be readily adjusted transversely, but along the carrier-bar M', to correspond with the described adjustments of the needles and shuttles, and can be as readily fixed in such adjustment. I also prefer to form the arms M4 of the presser-feet of the Work-clamps M with segmental bearings M5, which I pivot on and mount to slide along` the head of a rail M6, extending along and fixed on the carrier-bar M', so-that when the Workclamps M are adjusted along the bar M', as before described, the presser-feet Will like- Wise be adjusted along the rail MG. I further prefer to provide springs M7, tending -to raise the presser-feet and to effect the even and simultaneous depression Yof the presser-feet by means of a cam-bar M11, extending along and pivoted to the carrier-bar 1W 'and adapted to coperate with a cam extension MS of each v.presser-foot arm, said cam-bar being provided,
as illustrated in the aforesaid patent to T. E. Colby, No. 441,058, With an operating-arm M9 and treadle, (not shown,) which I employ for clamping all the presser-feet simultaneously, and also With a spring M10 for returningv the l cam-bar, and thus allowing the presser-feet to be unclamped by their respective springs lV 7.
Toimpart an even and simultaneous buttonhole feed motionl to the several Work- -clamps M, I secure the carrier-bar M' at its ends to upright but depending arms N, fixed to a horizontal guide-plate N',Which, together with the bar M', constitutes a Work clamp `carrier substantially like -that described in `the aforesaid patent to T. E. Colby, No. 441,058. Theguide-plate N' is provided With longitudinal dovetail guides, in Which Works a second horizontal guide plate N2, having transverse guides, in which works a third rguide-plate N3, mounted. to Work on fixed 'guides N5, extending transversely along the frame A, substantially as described in said patent toT. E. Colby, although in said patent the Word transversely is usedto mean vlengthwise of the buttonholes to be stitched,
While in this specification it means trans- Vversely of the buttonholes, and, conversely,
the Word longitudinally.7 As described in `said patent to T. E. Colby, I impart to the guide-plate N a reciprocating feeding motion lengthwise of the buttonholes, to the guide-plate N2 a reciprocating-motion transversely to the buttonholes at the ends ofL the buttonholes, and tothe guide plate N3 a IOO IIO
IZOl
transverscly-vibratory motion to make the individual stitches at the sides of the buttonholes.
To give the longitudinally-reciprocating motion to the guideplate N', I prefer to iin on the driving-shaft E a cain-wheel O, having a cam C10, with which I engage a twoarnied cam-following lever O', pivoted to the frame and connected by a rod C2 with an elbow-lever O3, which is pivoted to the frame and is connected by a rod C'1 with a pawl O5, which thus intermittently engages and rotates a ratchet-wheel OG, mounted to rotate on the upper guide-plate N3. rlhe ratchetwheel O, substantially as shown and described in said patent to T. E. Colby, through a short shaft O7, heart-cam O8, and camfollowers C, attached to the guide plate N, gives the desired longitudinal reciprocatory feeding motion to the guide-plate N', and hence to the several work-clamps in harmony with the operation of the driving-shaft and the needles.
To give the transversely-reciprocating motion to the work-clamp carrier at the ends of the buttonholes, I prefer to mount on the short shaft O7, driven by the ratchet-wheel C, as in said patent to T. E. Colby, a cam P, which engages cam-followers P on a bar P2, connected to the guide-plate N2, so that said guide-plate N2, and with it the guideplate N, mounted thereon, will receive the desired reciproca-tory motion in harmony with the operation of the needles, and therefore the several work-clamps be simultaneously reciprocated transversely at the ends of the buttonholes to shift the stitching from one side to the other of the buttonholes.
To impart the required transversely-vibratory motion to the several work-clamps to form the individual stitches at the sides of the buttonholes, I prefer to form the camwheel O on the driving-shaft E with a camgroove Q, substantially as described in said patent to T. E. Colby, and engage with said cam Q a two-armed cam-following lever Q', pivoted to the frame and connected by a rod (g2 with the upper guide-plate N3, so that said guide-plate N3, and with it the guide-plates N2 and N and the several work-clamps, will be rapidly vibrated transversely in harmony with the operation of the needles and the individual stitches thus formed at the sides of the buttonholes.
I may also provide for automatically stopping the m ultipleb uttonhole-stitchin g mechanism thus described on the completion of the buttonholes by means of any approved form of stop-motion-as, for instance, the wellknown lVheeler d: "Wilson stop-m otion, which is operated bya tripper on the ratchet-wheel of the buttonhole feed mechanism.
I effect the even and simultaneous cutting of the several buttonholes, when stitched as described in this example of my invention, by hand, as follows: On each of the several work-plates K", I iii; ears R, between which I pivot a cutter-carrying lever R', holding a detachable buttonhole-cutter R2, which is arranged to cooperate with a correspondinglyslotted cutting-anvil R3, set in the Worloplate and projecting upward through the opening in the lower clamp-plate R4 to the level of the cloth plane, so as to cut the respective buttonhole evenly and squarely between the parallel lines of buttonhole-stitching and complete the buttonhole. For actuating each cutter with the required force and precision I prefer to use a toggle-lever consisting of a toggle-link R5, pivoted to the cutter-lever R', and a toggle-arm R6, pivoted to the togglelink R5 and fixed to a rock-shaft R7, mounted on bearings on the work-plate K4, and I eX- tend said rock-shaft across all the work-plates and provide it with an operating-arm R9 and treadle, (which is not and need not be illus trated,) so that a single operator can by said treadle cut all the stitched buttonholes simultaneously and with the requisite force and accuracy.
I make no claim in this particular application to the multiple-buttonhole-cutting mechanism herein shown and described, as the features of invention therein are claimed by me in another application for patent, executed by me March 5, 1897, and iiled in the Patent Office July 29, 1897, Serial No. 646,318.
I claim as my inventionl. In a multiple-buttonholesewing machine, the combination, with a plurality of shuttles, a plurality of buttonholc workclamps, and a buttonhole feed mechanism operating the several work-clamps, of a plurality of needles, a vertically-reciprocating needle-carrier carrying the several needles, guides for the needle-carrier, a driving-shaft, actuating connections between the drivingshaft and the needle-carrier, a vertically-ie ciprocating cross-head, guides therefor, actuating connections between the cross-head and the several shuttles to operate the shuttles simultaneously, and actuating connections between the driving-shaft, the cross-head and the buttonhole fee'd mechanism.
2. In a multiple-buttonhole-sewing ma chine, the combination, with a plurality of shuttles and their shafts, a plurality of buttonhole work-clamps and a buttonhole feed mechanism operating the several workclamps, of a plurality of needles, a verticallyreciprocating needle-carrier carrying the several needles, guides for the needle-carrier, a driving-shaft, actuating connections between the driving-shaft, the needle-carrier and the buttonhole feed mechanism, a vertically-reciprocating cross-head, guides therefor, actuating connections between the cross-head and the shuttle-shafts, and beam-levers connecting the needle-carrier and the cross-head.
3. In a multiple-buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination, with a plurality of stitch-forming mechanisms, and a buttonhole feed mechanism comprisinga reciprocating and transversely-vibrating guide-plate, of a IOO IIO
LVI
anism, and means for operating the several needles, Work-clamps, and cross-head in unison, of actuating connections between the cross-head and the shuttle-shafts including a link for each shuttle-shaft and means for adj usting` the said links along the cross-head'.
In testimony whereof I have hereunto set 2o my hand the 20th day of April, 1896.
HERBERT E. I-IAWEs. l
In presence of C. I-I. COLBY, GEORGE E. ROGERS.
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