US566858A - gammons - Google Patents

Description

4 Sheets-Sheet 1.

(No Model.)

-W. P. GAMMONS, Jr. MAGHINE FOR SEWING SWEAT BANDS INTO HATS.

Patented Sept. 1-, 1896.

(No Mom. 4 Sheets-Sheet 2. W. P. GAMMONS, Jr. MAGHINE FOR SEWING SWEAT BANDS INTO HATS.

.No. 566,858. Patentedfiept. 1, 1896.

(No Model.) 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 W. P. GAMMONS,J1*.

MACHINE FQR SEWING SWEAT BANDS INTO HATS. .No. 566,858. Patented Sept. 1, 18%

. 4 Sheets-Sheet 4v W. P. GAMMONS, Jr. MACHINE FOR SEWING SWEAT BANDS INTO HATS.

om A 0 7 N h (No Model.)

Patented Sept 1, 1896 Fqr 7 UNITED STATES PATENT rricn.

YVELCOME P. GAMMONS, JR, OF NEYV YORK, N. Y.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 566,858, dated September 1, 1896.

%erial No. 541,538. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that LWELooME P. GAMMONS, Jr., a citizen of the United States, residing at New York city, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Machines for Sewing Sweat-Bands into Hats; and I do declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

My invention relates to improvements in machines for sewing sweat-bands into hats; and it has for one of its objects to provide such a sewing-machine embodying a construction which in several features is an improvement upon the construction of machine disclosed in my Letters Patent No. 519,038, of May 1, 1894.

Another object of the invention is to provide a guide for the folded edge of a hat, the sweat-band, and the reed and reed-cloth adapted to be adjusted to permit of a ready interposition of the sweat-band and reed and reed-cloth and also adapted to press the sweat-band and reed-cloth against the folded edge of the hat,- so as to hold them in proper position with respect to the same to receive the stitches and enable said stitches in one operation to connect the sweat-band and reed cloth together and to the hat.

Other objects and advantages of the invention will be fully understood from the following description and claims when taken in connection with the annexed drawings, in which-- Figure 1 is a perspective view illustrating my improved machine with the hatholder omitted. Fig. 2 is an elevation of one side of the same with the hat-holder and a portion of its support in section. Fig. 3 is an inverted plan view of the machine with parts broken away and the hat-holder omitted. Fig. 4 is an enlarged vertical section taken in the plane indicated by the line 2: z of Fig. 3. Fig. 5 is a detail horizontal section taken in the plane indicated by the line A A of Fig. 4. Fig. 6 is an enlarged vertical section illustrating a portion of the vertically-movable frame which carries the stitch-forming mechanism, a portion of the drive-shaft, and the cam on the drive-shaft, which engages a log on the frame and is adapted to transmit vertical reciprocatory movement to the same. Fig. 7 is a detail section taken in the plane indicated by the line 3 y of Fig. 6. Fig. 8 is an enlarged perspective view of the guide for the sweat-band, the reed and reed-cloth, and the folded edge of the hat. Fig. 9 is an inverted plan view of the guide, and Fig. 10 is an enlarged transverse section taken in the plane indicated by the line on or of Fig. 8.

In the said drawings similar letters designate corresponding parts in all the several views.

A indicates the base of the machine; B, the overhanging, fixed arm, and O the driveshaft, which is journaled in the arm B, as shown. This drive-shaft C is provided with a disk D, having a peripheral cam-groove a, which engages the lug b, carried at the upper end of a lever E, as shown. The said lever E has its lower end extended through the base A of the machine and loosely connected to one end of the horizontal lever F, which is provided with a slot 0 for the adj ustable connection of the pitm an G. This pitman is connected at its forward end to a lever H, which carries a spring-pressed pawl I, engagin g with the ratchet-wheel J, fixed on the shaft cl of the pinion e, (see Fig. 4,) and the said pinion e meshes with the gear-wheel f on the shaft 9 of the horizontallydisposed feedwheel K, which feed-wheel is designed to be moved a slight distance through the medium of the mechanism just described to feed the materials while the vertically-slidable frame isin its upper position, and at the beginning of the outward stroke of the needle, so that the needle will take through the sweat-band, reed-cloth, and the folded edge of the hat to form the next stitch at the proper distance from the first stitch or passage of the needle through the sweat-band, reed-cloth, and hat. The feed-wheel K is provided with a depending peripheral flange K which is toothed, as shown. This flange K enables the wheel Kto thoroughly cover the gear-wheels e f, so as to exclude dust and dirt therefrom and prevent the materials, thread, 650., from being caught in said gear-wheels.

ICO

L indicates the clamping-wheel, carried by a lever L, which is fulcrumed upon the base A and is designed to be moved by the camlever M, so as to carrythe wheel L away from the feed-wheel K to permit of the interposition of materials between the same, the said clamping-wheel L normally pressing toward the feed-wheel K, or the materials between the two, by virtue of the spring-lever j, (see Fig. 3,) which is fulcrumed at It and bears at one end against a stud Z, depending from the lever L, and is engaged, at its opposite end by a screw L through the medium of which the pressure against the lever L, and consequently that of the wheel L,against the wheel K, may be increased or diminished as desired. It will be noted that the spring-lever 3' simply bears against and is not connected to the fulcrum 7o, stud Z, or screw L and it will therefore be appreciated that said spring-lever may be readily placed in position without the aid of any implement, and that it may be readily removed when desired by simply turning the screw L outwardly a sufficient distance, and it will further be appreciated that by reason of the peculiar construction just mentioned a flat piece of spring metal having no holes or indentations may be employed as the spring-lever j.

Mounted in suitable ways in the face of the overhanging or fixed arm B is the vertically-slidable frame N, which is provided on its inner side with a pin carrying an antifriction-roller, designed to move in the camgroove m of the wheel or disk P upon the f irward end of the drive-shaft 0, whereby it will be seen that at each rotation of the said r/haft the frame N and its appurtenances will be lowered and raised, such movement of the frame being properly timed with respect to the movements of the other parts, as will be psesently pointed out.

J ournaled in brackets n, extending forwardly from the movable frame N, is a rockshaft 1), upon one end of which is fixed the swinging arm Q of the reciprocatory needle R.

Fixed at a suitable point upon the driveshaft 0 is a beveled gear-wheel g, which meshes with the pinion 9" upon a short shaft which extends through the Wall of the arm B and carries a disk 3 at its outer end, to which is connected one end of a pitm an t, which pitman is connected at its forward end toa crankarm S, fixed upon the end of the shaft 19 opposite to that to which the arm Q is connected, whereby it will be seen that when the driveshaft is rotated the needle R will be reciprocated. The crank-arm S is provided at its upper end with an approximately T-shaped head T, in which is formed a cam-slot M, designed to impart a vertical reciprocatory movement to a rack-bar U, which rack-bar meshes with a pinion o upon one end of the shaft to of the loop-taker V, which shaft is 1 bar U is given an upward movement and through the medium of the pinion on the looptaker shaft gives said shaft a slight rocking motion, so as to vibrate the loop-taker and raise its point to a plane above the path of the needle. Upon the down ward stroke of the rack-bar U and during the receding stroke of the needle the loop-taker will rock inwardly to take the thread bight or loop from the needle, and upon the succeeding upper stroke of the rack-bar the loop-taker will rock outwardly or in a reverse direction into its position above the path of the needle ready to rock inward to shed its first loop and take another loop from the needle, as will be here inafter more clearly pointed out. The mechanism thus far described is so timed that when the vertically-slidable'frame-N is moving up or down the lug of the rack-bar U is at the forward end of the cam-slot u of the crank-arm S, which is shaped as shown, by reason of which the crank-arm S will have an ineffective or lost motion and the rack-bar U and needlearm Q will be held stationary with respect to the slidable frame N during the greater part of the upward and downward movements of said frame. Although the rack-bar U and the loop-taker V, together with the needle-arm Q, do not move materially during the movements of the frame N, yet when said frame is in its lower position the said parts will be thrown into action and the needle will take through the materials (which are supported and guided as presently described) and the looptaker will take a loop from the needle; and after the slidable frame has attained its upper position the needle and loop-taker will again be thrown into action and the needle will pass over the material, and the loop-taker will shed its first loop and take another loop from the needle and will draw it through the first loop or the loop that it has just shed; or, in other words, a stitch will be formed while the frame N is in its lower position and another stitch will be formed when the said frame is in its upper position, the first stitch being through the materials and the next stitch over the same.

In order to properly support the hat when the same is clamped between the wheel L and the feed-wheel K, I have provided the hanger WV,which is suitably connected to the forward end of the base A, as better shown in Fig. 2 of the drawings. This hanger is provided with a vertical slot a, and in said slot is arranged the vertically-movable support A, which is provided with a threaded socket b for the reception of the adjustingscrew 0, which takes loosely through the lower end d of the hanger and is provided above and below said lower 'end with means adapted to hold it against endwise movement, so as to enable it when turned to raise or lower the support A, for a purpose presently described. The support A has suitable lugs 6 upon its upper side for the connection of the lever B, and the said lever, which has the rotary platform C at its forward end to support the hat-holder D, has its rear and lower end arranged upon a spring E, whereby it will be seen that when a hat is properly arranged in the holder D and the support A is properly adjusted the folded edge of the said hat will be yieldingly pressed upwardly in the guide (presently described) and will therefore be moved and held by the feed and clamping wheel in a proper position to receive the stitches.

Suitably connected to and extending upwardly from the base A of the machine, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings, are brackets F, which have slots in their vertical portions f, and also have their outer horizon tal port-ions g notched, as illustrated. These brackets F are designed for the connection of the body G of the guide H, and such connection is effected by the screws h on the upper side of the body, which take into the notches in the portions g of the brackets, and the screws '6, which take through the slots in the portions f of the brackets and into the body G, and it will therefore be seen that the body may be readily connected to and disconnected from the brackets when desired. The said body G of the material-guide is provided in its under side with a groove or way I, (see Figs. 9 and 10,) which is designed to receive and guide the folded edge of the hat, and is therefore curved slightly to conform to the curvature of the hat-holder D, and is provided adjacentto its forward wall m with a comparatively deep channel n to receive the edge of the hat on the holder 1), as illustrated in Fig. 10. The forward wall m of the groove 1 is broken away at a considerable distance from the notch or opening J through which the needle passes, in order to enable the lever K, in which the sweatband and reed and reed-cloth ways or grooves L M are formed, to extend into the said notch or opening J, so as to properly guide the sweat-band and reed-cloth with respect to the folded edge of the hat.

The way or groove M of the lever, which is designed, as stated, to guide the reed and reed-cloth, is deeper than the way or groove L for the sweat-band, as shown in Fig. 10, in order to hold the reed and the cloth surrounding the same above the upper edge of the sweat-band, so that they may be connected to the hat in such positions, and the walls r s of the said ways or grooves are shorter than the outer wall '15 of the groove L in order to enable the lever, which is pivotally connected to the guide-body G, and has its rear end pressed outwardly by the spring N, to press the reed-cloth and sweatband against the folded edge of the hat, so as to securely hold the same in proper position with respect to each other while they are being stitched together. The lever K is fur thermore advantageous inasmuch as by pressing its rear end toward the guide-body its forward end or portion, in which the grooves L H are formed, may be moved away from the guide-body, so as to permit of a ready interposition of the sweat-band and the reed and reed-cloth in said grooves.

As better shown in Fig. 9 of the drawings, an additional guide for the reed and reedcloth is formed at the forward end of the lever K by the wall 25 and a short wall a in order to hold the reed and reed-cloth in proper position at the point where the cloth is stitched to the sweat-band and the folded edge of the hat.

In using my improved machine the crown of the hat to be sewed is placed in the holder D, and its brim is bent over the edge of the same. The support A is then raised by manipulating the screw 0, so as to enable the spring E to yieldingly press and hold the folded edge of the hat in the way or groove 1 of the guide. The rear end of the lever K is then {pressed toward the guide-body, when the sweat-band and the reed and reedcloth maybe readilyinterposed in the grooves or ways L M, and when the lever is released they will be firmly pressed by the action of the spring N, so as to securely hold them in proper position with respect to the folded edge of the hat. When the materials have been properly placed in the guide, as before stated, the cam-lever M is manipulated, so as to enable the lever-springj, by acting on the lever L, to press the clamping-wheel L against the feed-wheel K, when the machine is ready to be operated, as before described.

When my improved machine is used to sew sweat-bands into hats without connecting a reed and reed-cloth thereto, a guide embodying my invention, but having only one groove or way in the lever K, should be employed.

Having described my invention, what I claim is 1. A guide for hat'sewing machines comprising a body provided with a way for receiving and guiding the folded edge of a hat, a lever fulcrumed at an intermediate point of its length on the body and having a way in its forward portion for receiving and guiding a sweat-band; said way extending in the direction of the length of the lever, and a spring interposed between the body and the rear portion of the lever, substantially as specified.

2. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a material-guide, a hanger, a movable support adjustably connected with the hanger so that it may be fixed at various distances from the guide, a lever fulcrumed on said support, a spring backing said lever, a rotary platform mounted on the lever, and a hat-holder mounted on said platform, substantially as specified.

3. A guide for hat-sewing machines comprising a body having a way in its under side for receiving and guiding the folded edge of a hat, and a, lever fulornmed at an intermeand the rear portion of said lever, substandiate point in its length upon the front side tially as specified. 10 of the body and having a, way in the under In testimony whereof I affix my signature side of its forward portion for receiving and in presence of two Witnesses.

5 guiding a sweat-band and also having a, Way WELCOME P. GAMMONS, JR.

in the under side of its forward portion for 'Witnesses: receiving and guiding a reed and reed-cloth, LOUIS LEWINSOHN,

and a spring interposed between the body BRUNO W. PORTZSCH.

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