US541079A - Coat-pad - Google Patents

Description

- (No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

S. DREYER.

GOAT PAD. No. 541,079. Patented June 18, 1895.

' m: noams Pm do. muroumou WASHINGTON. o. c.

2 Sheetp-Sheet -2.

S. DREYER.

GOAT PAD. v

Patnted June 18,- 1895.

UNITED ST TES PATENT Opt cs.

SAMUEL DREYER'OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

COAT-PAD.

EilECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 541,079, dated Tune 18, 1895.

Application filed December 18,1894- Serial No. 532,178. (No model.) I

ready to be applied to the coa'tby securing the edges of the pad to the seams of the coat, the pad being so constructed as to assume a rounded or concave form to give body to the coat and prevent the coat from losing its shape. I

It has been the custom heretofore in the manufacture of coats to provide a layer of padding in the coat at the shoulder, the padding being secured to the coat at the shoulder seam and at the sleeve seain, and hanging loosely between the faceot' the coat and the lining. The padding as thus formed has no body and consequently does not give form to the coat and soon becomes wrinkled and out of shape and causes'the coat to present an unsightly appearance.

It is the object of my invention to provide a pad as an article of manufacture to be supplied to the trade as such, the pad being adapted to be readily applied to the coat, and possessing a decided body or assumed form so that the pad will maintain its shape, and possessing a certain springiness, and for this purpose I form the padso that it possesses a rounded or concave form to fit the body of the wearer. To secure this rounded form I make the pad of a backing cut to the proper shape so that the edges thereof may be sewed into the seams of the coat,. and upon this backing is placed a layer of soft material, as felt, which is secured: to the backing in such a manner that the felt is caused to buckle along vertical lines to impart a concave or rounded form to the pad as a whole. The best manner which I have found of producing this buckling is to secure orsew the padding and the backing together by vertical rows of zigzag stitches, the thread being sunk into the surface of soft padding of felt causing it to buckle along vertical lines, the pad as a whole thus assuming a rounded orconcave form. The zig-zag rows of thread also serve to secure the padding and backing together at all points of the surface, a certain elasticity or springiness being thus imparted to the pad that causes it to maintain its rounded form. It is desirable to provide an extra thickness of padding at the portion that rests upon and just in front of the shoulder and for this purpose I provide between the backing aud the layer of padding a layer of wadding, as cotton, the layer varying in thickness, increasing from the collar toward the tip of the shoulder; the wadding, backing and paddingbeing secured together by the vertical rows of zigzag threads. Upon the padding I provide a back shoulder strip adapted to extend under the arm and up the back, the end thereof being secured to the upper edge of the pad proper. The back shoulder strip thus assists in maintaining the pad in its rounded or concave form while serving as a padding and giving body to the coat about the sleeve.

I employ a machine in securing the padding and backing together, the presser foot of the machine being preferably adjusted to press against the Work with considerable more force than usual, say about thirtypounds, the padding and backing being passed through the machine with the padding uppermost, thus being engaged by the presser foot which assists in causing the buckling of the padding, the machine maintaining the thread at a uniform tension, whereby it is caused to sink into the soft surface of the padding and to maintain the samein its buckled or rounded position. 7

, In manufacturing the pads, they are made of various sizes and numbered to correspond with the size of the coat with which they are to be used so that the tailor in applying the pad to the coat has only to sew the edges of the hacking into the seams of the coat no fitting or cutting being necessitated.

I will describe my invention with reference to the accompanying drawings, in whichinvention before being placed on the coat.

Fig. 2 is a view illustrating the pad as it appears in the coat. Fig. 3 isa sectional view on line 3 3, Fig. 2. Fig. 4 is a view of a pad designed for a short-roll stifi-front coat. Fig. 5 is a view on line 5 5, Fig. 4. Fig. 6 is a rear View of a portion of the pad.

Like letters refer tolike'partsthroug'hout the several figures.

The pad shown in Fig. 1 is designed for a, coat having a long roll, the backing abeing out to the general shape of the front and side of the coat, which is in the present instance a cutaway coat. Upon the backing a is placed the padding 1) of felt, orsimiIarmaterialJthe felt being secured to the backing by rowsof zigzag diagonal loopstitches c, the threadbeing maintained taut duringthesewing operation whereby the thread is caused to sinkinto thesurt'aceof the soft felt causing the samev to buckle'aud impart a concave form to the, The rows of zigzagtstitches; run in parallel columnsfromthetop to the bottom of the padding :thus causing=the felt.

completed pad.

to bucklealong parallel lines :and ;giving .a gradual roundedform to the pad. Ifind that best results can be :obtained by-sewing the felt to the padding by machine, amachine'being used that will produce thezigzagstitches, as, by machine, the thread may be maintained tant to cause the sameltosink into .theafelt. lt is practi cally impossible byhandtmmaintain such a tension uponthe thread "asrtorproduce the proper bending of ithe pad. The ithreads c, as shown more clearlyin Fig.6,ruu diagonal to thethreads of which thelbacking is woven, the diagonal threads thusstrengthening the backing and preventing the pulling of the pad out of shape. :In Fig.3 the pad is shown in section, the bucklinsgof the felt, due

to the threads, being illustrated.

At the shoulder waddingolzisprovideihbeing interposed between the backing wand the padding 1), the wadding beingitapered in. thickness, gradually increasing fromthe col-l lar toward the tip of the shoulder,.the lower edge of the waddingibeing indicated by the dotted line d. ding of felt isprovided aback shoulderstrip or extended portion 1) adapted tosextendunder the arm, its edge being sewed to the up-- per edge of that partofthe pad lying between At the rear edge of I thepad-v the front of the coat may easily roll back as faras the edge of the padding 1).

In Fig. 4 I have illustrated a pad designed for a short roll coat, the padding 1) being extended to the front edge of the backing a, whereby the front edge of the coat is rendered m-oreor less stiE, and the upper edge or lapel portion of the front of the coat is alone capable of being softly rolled. In order to provide the coat at the same time with a stiff front, a layer of fiber cloth e, or similar stiff material, maybe interposed between the padding 1) and the backing a, as illustrated in Fig.5. This additional layer of stiff material lends a certain inflexibility to the front of the coat that maintains it stiff and preventsits rolling.

ln accordance with my invention, the pads may bemade in sizes ready to be applied diirectly to the coat, whereas heretofore it has been necessary to cut-the pad and fashion the lsamewat the time of making the coat.

I have described my invention in connection with pads designed for cutaway coats but the pads are equally applicable to other styles of coats, as likewise to ladies cloaks, :and other articlesof wearing apparel.

Having described my invention, what I .claim'as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. As ainew article of manufacture, a coat padcomprising a stiff backing,- a layer of soft padding mounted upon said backing, and vertical rows of zig-zag stitches securing the pad ding to the backing the thread being sunk .into the surface of the soft padding to cause a buckling of the same, whereby the completed pad is caused to assume a rounded or concave form, substantiallyas described.

2. Asa new article of manufacture, a coat pad comprisingastilf backing, a soft padding mounted upon said backing and provided with a back shoulder strip adapted to be se cured by its ends to the upper edge of the pad, wadding interposed between the backing and the padding at the upper end increasing in thickness from the collar toward the shoulder tip, and vertical rows of zigzag stitches securing the backing, padding and wadding together, the thread being sunk into the surface of the softpadding to cause a buckling of thesame, whereby the completed pad is .caused to assume a rounded or concave form, while the back shoulder strip assists in maintaining the pad in its concave form, substantially as described.

In witness whereof I hereunto subscribe my name thisl lth day of December, A. D. 189i.

SAMUEL DREYER.

-Witnesses:

DE WITT O. TANNER, MARTIN 13. (JOHN.

Images