US49803A - Improvement in sewing-machines - Google Patents

Improvement in sewing-machines Download PDF

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US49803A
US49803A US49803DA US49803A US 49803 A US49803 A US 49803A US 49803D A US49803D A US 49803DA US 49803 A US49803 A US 49803A
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looper
needle
thread
cloth
loop
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B1/00General types of sewing apparatus or machines without mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both
    • D05B1/08General types of sewing apparatus or machines without mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making multi-thread seams
    • D05B1/18Seams for protecting or securing edges
    • D05B1/20Overedge seams

Definitions

  • Fig. 2 is an inverted plan of the bed-plate and parts attached thereto.
  • Fig. 3 is an elevation of the machine at the side where the looper operates, and
  • Fig. 4 is an elevation of the-machine on the opposite side, showing the device for moving the needle-arm and needle.
  • My invention relates to mechanism for producing a double-looped or button-hole stitch, one loop being taken from the needle while it is below the cloth, over a looping-instrument that itselt'carries the second thread, and, crossin g the path of the needle, rises above the cloth, so that the needle, on its descent,.takes a loop from said looper.
  • the looper retiring below the cloth, drops the first lo'opof needle-thread, which, by the movementof theneedle and takeup, draws up around th ejsecon d or lower th read, and then the looper goes forward and takes a looper of needle-thread, and the sewing-proceeds as before.
  • a is the frame-work of the machine, carrying the main shaft 1), rotated by a band to the pulley c, or by any other suitable device.
  • the crank d may be provided for shaped slot, h, operated upon by a crank-pin orroller, 1, on a disk, 2, at the end of the main the machine by hand or for finishing to its surface.
  • the shape of" the heart-cam slot h is" such that'the needle moves rapidly when out of the cloth and remains in the cloth a longer period-in order that the looper may have time for its movement, and the roller 1, passing below the point in the heart-slot, gives a mo' mentary riseto the needle to form a loop.
  • Thea-rm k from the frame 0 extends over the bed I of the machine, 'asusual, and has at its'end an ordinary pressure-foot, n, that is kept down by a spring within the end of the arm. Said foot, however, is capable of being raised until its guide-key comes to a horizontal slot, 3, in the said arm, that allows of its being, with the presser n, turned into the position shown inFig. 1, out of the way of the needle and looper, when the button-hole is beingput into its position on the bed, and'theu turned back again to hold down the cloth. while being sewed.
  • q isthe spool of needlethread, and 1' any usual friction apparatus, applied to the thread to give the necessary tension.v
  • the needlethread is shown in blue lines, while the lower thread is shown in red lines passing away from the spool 8 through the eye 7, thence around the friction or tension plates t, through an eye, 8, on the spring take-up, to the guide-hook 9, and thence to the looper o.
  • the looper o is formed in the arc of a circle,.and is attached to theend of an arm that projects from the shaft u, set in bearings 10 11 depending from J the under side of the bedfl.
  • This shaft is diagonal to the bed and at an inclination, also, A spring, 12, around this shaft u tends to rotate the shaft so as to keep the end of the looper projected through a hole pro-' vided for it in the bed'adjacent to and joining with the needi'eopening.
  • a pinion, 13 takinginto teeth on the segmentavibratiug'on a fulcrum, 15, auda roller, 16, on
  • said segment is operated upon by a cam, 20, on the main shaft b.
  • Theshape of this cam is such that the motions required are given to the looper by the rotation of its' shaft a through the segment 'v and pinion 13, the spring 12 keeping theroller16 to thecam to at all times, except when the work is being entered or withdrawn, when an arm, at, upon. the segment 12 is employed to draw that for-. ward and draw down the looper, in which po-' sition the parts may be held by a shoulder on the arm as acting as a button to hold the segment forward when said arm :10 is given a partial turn to'cause the shoulder to button over a catch upon the penden-tbearing 10.
  • a guide-hook, y is provided above the bed land adjacent to the opening for the looper, which hook, projecting through the buttonhole in the cloth, holds it open sufficiently for the looper to pass up without touching, the side of saidbutton hole opposite to that-on which the sewing .is,.-being performed.
  • the looper o hasameye near its back end, through,
  • the sewing is performed as follows: The nee dle t perforates the cloth.
  • the looper 0 draws. back as the needle descends and assumes the position shown in the detached. Fig. ,5, the lower thread passing from the hook 9 up to the looper, and thence to thecloth.
  • the looper then goes forward (the spring take-up 8 keeping the thread tight) and the looper takes a loop of needle-thread, as seen in Fig. 3, and crossing the path of the needle, as seen in Fig. 1; carries its own thread through the buttonhole, (or at the edge of the fabric,) the needle in the meanwhile rising and quickly vdescending', while the looper pauses, so that the needletakes a loop of thread from thelooper.
  • the looper is then moved suddenly backwardand down under the table, dropping its previous loop of needle-thread, which is drawn up by the take-up and the further descentof the needle, the looper also drawing back, its thread being around the hook 9, which also assists to cause the previous stitch to v be drawn up tightly.
  • the needle then rises slightly, forming a loop of thread; the looper flies forward through that loop; the needle rises, dropping itsprevious loop of lower or second thread around its ownthread, and so on, concatenating the loops of the two threads, so as to form a strongand handsome button-hole that presents onthe upper side stitching with the loops of lower thread around the thread passing into the perforations, and the loops of lower thread passing over the edgesof the fabric and interlacing near the lower edge with the loop of the needle-thread coming out. from the under side of the perforations in said fabric.
  • the lower thread being aroundthe hook 9, the

Description

3 Sheets-Sheet 1.
-J.-N.T ARBOX. SEWING MACHINE.
Patented Sept. 5, 1865.
3 SheetsSheej; 2.
J. N. TARBVOX. SEWING MACHINE.
Patented Sept. 5, 1865.
7&227:
3 SheetsSheet 3.
'J. N. TARBOX. SEWING MAGBINE.
7/; wzcsses 42 44/ 4% UNITE STATES PATENT OFFICE.
JOHN N. TARBOX, or BUFFALO, NEW YonK.
IMPROVEM ENT IN SEWING-MACHINES.
Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 49,803, dated September 5, 1865.
T0 all'whom it may concern:
Be it known that 1, JOHN N. TARBOX, of Buffalo, in the county of Erie and State of New York, have invented, made, and applied to use a certain new and useful Improvement in Sewing-Machines adapted to Making Button Holes, &c.; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description fication, wherein- Figure 1 is a front elevationof my machine.
Fig. 2 is an inverted plan of the bed-plate and parts attached thereto. Fig. 3 is an elevation of the machine at the side where the looper operates, and Fig. 4 is an elevation of the-machine on the opposite side, showing the device for moving the needle-arm and needle.
My invention relates to mechanism for producing a double-looped or button-hole stitch, one loop being taken from the needle while it is below the cloth, over a looping-instrument that itselt'carries the second thread, and, crossin g the path of the needle, rises above the cloth, so that the needle, on its descent,.takes a loop from said looper. The looper, retiring below the cloth, drops the first lo'opof needle-thread, which, by the movementof theneedle and takeup, draws up around th ejsecon d or lower th read, and then the looper goes forward and takes a looper of needle-thread, and the sewing-proceeds as before. These concatenations are effected principally by a looper that is on the arm of a rock-shaft, placed diagonally to the feeding device and at an inclination to the bed of the machine, so that the looper moves n the arc of a circle the plane of which crosses the needle, the looper entering the loop of needle-thread on one side of the needle; thence rising, passes with its point on the other side of the needle to give off a loop of its own I thread, as aforesaid.
In the drawings, a is the frame-work of the machine, carrying the main shaft 1), rotated by a band to the pulley c, or by any other suitable device. The crank d may be provided for shaped slot, h, operated upon by a crank-pin orroller, 1, on a disk, 2, at the end of the main the machine by hand or for finishing to its surface.
shaft 1). The shape of" the heart-cam slot h is" such that'the needle moves rapidly when out of the cloth and remains in the cloth a longer period-in order that the looper may have time for its movement, and the roller 1, passing below the point in the heart-slot, gives a mo' mentary riseto the needle to form a loop.
Thea-rm k from the frame 0 extends over the bed I of the machine, 'asusual, and has at its'end an ordinary pressure-foot, n, that is kept down by a spring within the end of the arm. Said foot, however, is capable of being raised until its guide-key comes to a horizontal slot, 3, in the said arm, that allows of its being, with the presser n, turned into the position shown inFig. 1, out of the way of the needle and looper, when the button-hole is beingput into its position on the bed, and'theu turned back again to hold down the cloth. while being sewed.
I find it necessary to keep the tension of the needle-thread suflicient to properly pull up the loops in sewing and to keep. the thread out of the way in perforating the cloth. Therefore I employ a positiv'etake-up, consisting of the bent lever m on the fulcrum 4, one arm of which has an eye, 5, through which the needle-thread passes, and the other arm terminates with a roller, 6, that is operated on by the cam 12 upon the shaft b. This cam p is shaped, asshown, to keep up the slack of the needle-thread at all times,-except when a loop is being formed and taken by the looper.
q isthe spool of needlethread, and 1' any usual friction apparatus, applied to the thread to give the necessary tension.v The needlethread is shown in blue lines, while the lower thread is shown in red lines passing away from the spool 8 through the eye 7, thence around the friction or tension plates t, through an eye, 8, on the spring take-up, to the guide-hook 9, and thence to the looper o. The looper o is formed in the arc of a circle,.and is attached to theend of an arm that projects from the shaft u, set in bearings 10 11 depending from J the under side of the bedfl. This shaft is diagonal to the bed and at an inclination, also, A spring, 12, around this shaft u tends to rotate the shaft so as to keep the end of the looper projected through a hole pro-' vided for it in the bed'adjacent to and joining with the needi'eopening. At the other end of the shaft u is a pinion, 13, takinginto teeth on the segmentavibratiug'on a fulcrum, 15, auda roller, 16, on
said segment is operated upon by a cam, 20, on the main shaft b. Theshape of this camis such that the motions required are given to the looper by the rotation of its' shaft a through the segment 'v and pinion 13, the spring 12 keeping theroller16 to thecam to at all times, except when the work is being entered or withdrawn, when an arm, at, upon. the segment 12 is employed to draw that for-. ward and draw down the looper, in which po-' sition the parts may be held by a shoulder on the arm as acting as a button to hold the segment forward when said arm :10 is given a partial turn to'cause the shoulder to button over a catch upon the penden-tbearing 10.
A guide-hook, y, is provided above the bed land adjacent to the opening for the looper, which hook, projecting through the buttonhole in the cloth, holds it open sufficiently for the looper to pass up without touching, the side of saidbutton hole opposite to that-on which the sewing .is,.-being performed. The looper o hasameye near its back end, through,
- which the thread passes into agroovc extending toward the eye in the point.
The sewing is performed as follows: The nee dle t perforates the cloth. The looper 0 draws. back as the needle descends and assumes the position shown in the detached. Fig. ,5, the lower thread passing from the hook 9 up to the looper, and thence to thecloth. The looper then goes forward (the spring take-up 8 keeping the thread tight) and the looper takes a loop of needle-thread, as seen in Fig. 3, and crossing the path of the needle, as seen in Fig. 1; carries its own thread through the buttonhole, (or at the edge of the fabric,) the needle in the meanwhile rising and quickly vdescending', while the looper pauses, so that the needletakes a loop of thread from thelooper. The looper is then moved suddenly backwardand down under the table, dropping its previous loop of needle-thread, which is drawn up by the take-up and the further descentof the needle, the looper also drawing back, its thread being around the hook 9, whichalso assists to cause the previous stitch to v be drawn up tightly. The needle then rises slightly, forming a loop of thread; the looper flies forward through that loop; the needle rises, dropping itsprevious loop of lower or second thread around its ownthread, and so on, concatenating the loops of the two threads, so as to form a strongand handsome button-hole that presents onthe upper side stitching with the loops of lower thread around the thread passing into the perforations, and the loops of lower thread passing over the edgesof the fabric and interlacing near the lower edge with the loop of the needle-thread coming out. from the under side of the perforations in said fabric. The lower thread being aroundthe hook 9, the
thread is drawn most tightly to pull more. i 1 threadoff the spool when thelooper is backin 'vious stitch is pulled up when the perforatingneedle is at its lowest point. This draws the loops together near the lower edge of the fabric; but if the lower thread does not pass around thishookil, andthere is no change of tension, the loops will be pulled up when the looper is above the fabric, and the interlacing of the What-I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is- I t 1. The combination of the following devices:
first, a looperformed as an arc of a circle, with and segment acted on by a cam for giving looper, and having a loop of thread taken from itself below the cloth, substantially as specitied. V v 1 '2. The comb strument acting from below the cloth iuthev pointed needle,
button-hole over the point of the looper, as specified. 3. The eye-pointed needle, curved looper, and swinging pressure-foot, fitted and acting as aforesaid, in combination with the hook-y for holding the button-hole open where the looper ascends, as-specified.
4. The hook 9, in combine 0, for the purposes and as specified.
die acting above the cloth andfaloopiug-instrument passing up from below the. cloth-and delivering its, loop of thread over the needle in the manner specified, the cam p, lever m,
thread, as specified.
dle t and looper 0, operating substantially as specified, the heart-shaped slot h and crankpin 1, or equivalent mechanism, for communi- J. n. 'TARBOX'.
Witnesses CHAS. E. SMITH,
JAMES E. SERRELL, J r. v
the position shown in Fig. 5.; hence the preloops will be nearer thetop edge of the cloth.
an eye near the endand a groove extending along the side-and edge-thereof to an eye near the back end; second, an arm at the end of i a rockrshaft placed/diagonally to the bedof the machine and to the feed; third, a pinion.
. motion to the looper and carrying its point and eye from below the cloth up over. the-edge and, fourth, an eye-pointed needle acti'n g fromabove the cloth and taking a loop'-f roiu the ination-of an eye-pointed needle I acting from above the cloth and a looping-imarc of a circle at an inclination to the eye as specified, with a pressure foot acting to keep the cloth to the bed, bnt p o of being swungaside for passing the i tion with thelooper:
'5. In combination with an eye-pointed neerv and eye 5, to take up the slack of the needle- 4 6. In combination with the eye-pointed nee-- eating the movement specified to the needle, j so that the same will pause while in the cloth-
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