US392264A

US392264A - Boot or shoe

Info

Publication number: US392264A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1888-11-06
Anticipated expiration: 1905-11-06

Description

(No Model.) v

. J. W. FRENCH.

I BOOT 0R SHOE.

39 ,26 Patented Nov. 6, 1888.

N. Psvsn. mww-um w, Washington, In.

UNITE STATES tries.

PATENT BOOT OR SHOE.

$PEClFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 392,264, dated November 6, 1888.

Application filed May 22, 1888. Serial No. 274,034. (No midel.)

. .To all whom it may concern:

' on the drawings representing like parts.

This invention-has for its object an improved construction of shoe, whereby the same may be cheaply lasted without the employment of tacks in the ball of the inner sole. In accordance with my invention a lastingsole narrower than the bottom of the last at i theball thereof is employed instead and to take the place of the usual inner sole, the said lasting-sole having its edges immediately along the ball of the foot and between the toe portion, and the shank reduced in width and provided with a lip which points toward the center line of the sole, the said sole thus presenting along the ball abutting edges which fall within the sidelines ofthe bottom of the last, and against which the upper is drawn by stitches, the narrow portion of the lasting-sole having a groove, lip, or channel inside its abutting edges. When connecting the upper to the lasting-sole, the needle of any usual turn-shoe or welt-shoe sewingmachine will be made to enter the channel or under the lip of the lasting-sole, the point of the needle emerging from the abutting edges and entering the upper, so that when the needle is drawn back to finish the stitch the thread will draw the upper over the bottom of the last directly against the said abutting edge, thus connecting the upper with the lasting-sole at the abutting edge rather than with the outer side of the said sole. In this way the upper is drawn and strained over the bottom of the last, and thereafter (the last having been with drawn and the outer sole applied to the lasted shoe in usual manner) that portion of the upper lying between the abutting edge of the lastingsole and the edge of the last serves to receive the fastenings employed to unite the upper and outer sole, the said fastenings not entering the lasting-sole where it is reduced in width or between the portion thereof where the upperwas stitched to it, as described.

My invention therefore consists, essentially,

channel or groove.

in a bootor shoe consisting of an upper and lasting-sole cut and reduced in width along the ball portion thereof between the toe and shank portions, and having alip and an abutting edgelocated within the line of the bottom of the last in the direction of its width, the said upper being drawn against and stitched to the said abutting edges along only the ball of the shoe, and an outer sole united to the upper by a line of fastenings which pass through and through the outer sole, the upper, and the inner sole about the toe of the shoe and along the shank thereof, the said fastenings employed to secure the outer sole in place passing through the upper and not through the lasting-sole along the ball of the shoe, substantially as described.

Figurel in side elevation represents a shoe embodying my invention; Fig. 2, a section in the dotted line m,- Fig. 3, an under side view of the shoe, the upper along one side of the shoe being shown as lasted and trim med,while at the opposite side of the shoe the upper is in position to be stitched to the lasting-sole, a part of the upper being broken out to show the edge of the lasting-sole lying inside the edge of the last; Fig. 3, a section in the line as. Fig. 4 shows the lasting-sole by itself; Fig. 5, a section in the line 0c,with a piece of the upper in place, the figure showing the needle in place and part of the last.

The upper a is and may be of and material.

The lasting-sole b will preferably be a piece of leather reduced in width at and along the ball of the sole between the toe portion and shank portion, the lastingsole herein shown having an inturned lip, 0, under which is a The lip b is herein represented as formed upon the lasting-sole by slitting the latter from its opposite edge crosswise and transversely at four points, two at each side of the lastingsole, between the toe portion 1) and shank portion b", the portion of the sole between the parts where it is cut being bent over upon the face of the said sole, thus usual shape leaving an inturned lip.

The point of the needle employed to unite the upper to the lasting-sole emerges from the upper and enters the lasting-sole at the abutting edge I) thereof-the edge left by reducing the width of the sole along the ball portion the point of the needle coming out through the said sole under the lip or flap b, so that when the needle is drawn back to its starting-point to finish the stitch the thread entering the upper and sole will act to draw the upper close to the said edge b, or about the upper against the said edge at a point within the edge of the last, the upper being drawn and strained over the last. As the upper is drawn up and secured to the edges 7), rather than drawn over and secured to the top of the sole, as has hcre tofore been done in welted work, I shall donominate the edge If as the abutting edge.

In practice, the lasting-sole having been applied to the bottom 01' the last, the upper is drawn,by pinchers or otherwise,up to and over the edge of the last at the toe and through the shank and heel, when it may be temporarily secured or caught in usual manner by tacks or nails 2, and then the upper is stitched to the abutting edge of the lasting-sole by a line of stitches. (Shown at 3, Figs. 2 and 3'2) For the work I may employ any sewing-machine commonly used to stitch the upper to the inner sole in welted work, or to stitch the upper to the outer sole for turned work, the stitch being either a chain or two-threaded stitch, as may be desired.

In Fig. 3 the upper side or half of the shoe is shown as stitched and the lip and edge of the upper trimmed off from the center of the toe to the shank; but along the other side of the shoe the upper is shown as yet held by the tacks 2 in the last in position to be stitched.

The upper having been stitched to the abutting edge of the lasting sole, the nails 2 are withdrawn, the edge of the upper and the edge of the lip b projecting beyond the line of stitching are cut oil" nearly down to the said stitching, an outer sole, 0, is applied to the shoe, the last is withdrawn, and the shoe is applied to the horn of a machine of usual construction for uniting the sole and upper, and a line of l'astenings, t, preferably stitches, is put into the outer sole and upper outside the junction of the upper with the lasting sole, as shown in Fig. 2; but the said stitches 4 pass through and through the lasting-sole in the direction of its thickness both around the toe and through the shank, as in usual so-called McKay work. In this way nails or tacks are not left in the ball of the shoe, nor is the chain of stitches uniting the upper and lasting sole exposed at the inner side of the shoe. The cap will be nailed to the toe portion of the lasting-sole in usual manner.

A sock-sole will be applied in usual manner to the completed shoe,and the heel part of the shoe and upper may be put together in any usual manner.

1 do not broadly claim an inner sole having its edge cut away about the ball of the shoe,so that the stitching uniting the inner sole and upper will run off the inner sole to thus make a flexible sole; but I am not aware that a sole of the shape referred to has ever been pro vided with a lip, as b, to which the upper has been united for the purpose of lasting the shoe, as herein described.

I claim The herein-described shoe, it consisting of an upper and lasting sole cut and reduced in width along the ball portion thereof between the toe and shank portion,and having a lip,b, and an abutting edge, I)", located within the edge of the line of the last in the direction of its width, the said upper being drawn against and stitched to the said abutting edges 0' along only the ball of the shoe, and an outer sole united to the upper by a line of fastenings which pass through and through the outer sole, the upper and inner sole about the toe of the shoe and along the shank thereof, the said fastenings employed to secure the outer sole in place passing through the upper and not through the lasting solc along the ball of the shoe, all substantially as described.

In testimony whereofI have signed my name tothisspecilication in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

Witnesses:

G. \V. (jlunoom', J. (l. Sums.