US3821055A - Fabric pattern construction method - Google Patents

Fabric pattern construction method Download PDF

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Publication number
US3821055A
US3821055A US00211720A US21172071A US3821055A US 3821055 A US3821055 A US 3821055A US 00211720 A US00211720 A US 00211720A US 21172071 A US21172071 A US 21172071A US 3821055 A US3821055 A US 3821055A
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Prior art keywords
adhesive
pattern
fabric
percent
weight
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US00211720A
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C Fairbanks
R Leinen
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3M Co
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Minnesota Mining and Manufacturing Co
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    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09JADHESIVES; NON-MECHANICAL ASPECTS OF ADHESIVE PROCESSES IN GENERAL; ADHESIVE PROCESSES NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE; USE OF MATERIALS AS ADHESIVES
    • C09J5/00Adhesive processes in general; Adhesive processes not provided for elsewhere, e.g. relating to primers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10STECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10S430/00Radiation imagery chemistry: process, composition, or product thereof
    • Y10S430/152Making camera copy, e.g. mechanical negative
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T156/00Adhesive bonding and miscellaneous chemical manufacture
    • Y10T156/11Methods of delaminating, per se; i.e., separating at bonding face
    • Y10T156/1111Using solvent during delaminating [e.g., water dissolving adhesive at bonding face during delamination, etc.]
    • Y10T156/1116Using specified organic delamination solvent
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T428/00Stock material or miscellaneous articles
    • Y10T428/249921Web or sheet containing structurally defined element or component
    • Y10T428/249953Composite having voids in a component [e.g., porous, cellular, etc.]
    • Y10T428/249962Void-containing component has a continuous matrix of fibers only [e.g., porous paper, etc.]
    • Y10T428/249963And a force disintegratable component [e.g., stencil sheet, etc.]
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T428/00Stock material or miscellaneous articles
    • Y10T428/249921Web or sheet containing structurally defined element or component
    • Y10T428/249953Composite having voids in a component [e.g., porous, cellular, etc.]
    • Y10T428/249982With component specified as adhesive or bonding agent
    • Y10T428/249985Composition of adhesive or bonding component specified
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T428/00Stock material or miscellaneous articles
    • Y10T428/31504Composite [nonstructural laminate]
    • Y10T428/31855Of addition polymer from unsaturated monomers
    • Y10T428/31935Ester, halide or nitrile of addition polymer

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a method for construction with fabrics, and the like comprising temporarily securing fabric pieces by means of an aerosol spray of a normally tacky pressure-sensitive adhesive composition comprising a dispersion of an adhesive in a propellant at autogenous pressure, the dispersion having a particularly low penetration value and the adhesive having initial and subsequent peel resistances within defined, and relatively low, ranges.
  • Patterns for garments and the like generally consist of a number of individual pieces of tissuelike paper representing the different components of a garment or article. These pattern pieces also carry various printed details and directions for constructing the garment.
  • the fabric or other material to be used
  • the pieces of the pattern are then carefully positioned on the fabric with attention to the weave, shape and size of the material.
  • the pattern pieces are secured to the fabric using straight pins, or garment makers pins, prior to cutting and marking the fabric.
  • the pinning procedure has a number of disadvantages. Not only is it time consuming but the fabric with the pattern pinned to it is not convenient or pleasant to handle.
  • the paper of which the pattern is made is generally weak and easily torn and at the same time is crisp and stiff (thus resisting conformance to the soft nature of fabrics).
  • the pattern tends to slip on the fabric during pinning and bulges and wrinkles often occur (particularly when the newer stretchable fabrics are utilized). Due to such bulging and wrinkling it is frequently necessary to repin parts of the pattern to make them lie flat and smooth on the fabric, and this can result in a change in the position of the pattern relative to the fabric and additional unwanted holes in the fabric.
  • the pattern is askew after the final pinning and, while not noticeable at the time, a
  • misfit or poor hang of the finished garment may be the pattern by folding over the pattern and pinning the fold or by cutting the pattern and inserting additional paper (by pinning the inserted paper to the edges of the cut pattern). These operations are awkward and require considerable skill and patience. Tearing of the pattern is likely and handling is disagreeable due for example to the possibility of pin pricks in the fingers.
  • US. Pat. No. 2,41 1,328 discloses a method of making a garment using a pattern having a pressuresensitive or gum type (water activatible) adhesive applied to portions of the backside of the pattern (in spots or lines). Such patterns are intended to be adhered to the fabric for cutting and marking and then removed without tearing the pattern, thus allowing for reuse until exhaustion of the adhesive (or until the adhesive becomes blocked with lint, dust or the like).
  • a pressuresensitive or gum type water activatible
  • US. Pat. No. 2,657,159 discloses a method of making a garment using a pattern having marginal outlines of adhesive on the backside thereof.
  • the pattern is placed over the fabric and the adhesive is activated (e.g. by means of a hot iron) at which time it transfers to the fabric.
  • the pattern is then removed leaving sticky adhesive lines on the fabric.
  • the fabric is cut outside the adhesive lines and the various pieces of fabric are pressed together along these lines to hold them for sewing. It appears that this pattern would be suitable for a single use only.
  • US. Pat. No. 2,756,434 concerns a method of making garments using patterns covered over the backside with a thermoplastic heat-scalable resin.
  • the pattern is temporarily bonded to fabric by means of a hand iron (which causes the adhesive to soften and become waxlike).
  • the pattern thus adhered to the fabric is left in place during cutting and sewing operations and thereafter stripped from the fabric.
  • nonnally tacky in the foregoing it is meant that the adhesive is sticky to the touch at temperatures approximating room temperature.
  • pressuresensitive is meant that the adhesive is capable of forming a sheet to sheet bond after a brief set up time by applying finger tip pressure to press the sheets together.
  • the most common use of the present method is the temporary adhesion together of a garment pattern and the garment fabric (generally a woven, knit, etc. textile fabric).
  • the aerosol spray of the adhesive is applied to the back of any conventional dressmakers pattern from an aerosol can.
  • Coating weights of from about 0.2 to about 7 grams per square meter (about 0.02 to 0.7 grams per square foot) of adhesive are applied these and the other coating weights herein are on a dry basis, i.e., after evaporation of volatiles).
  • Less adhesive produces a coating with insufficient adhesion and more produces a coating that is bulky, causing pattern pieces to be messy, unpleasant to touch and difficult to handle.
  • Preferred coating weights are from 0.5 to grams per square meter (about 0.05 to 0.5 grams per square foot) and preferred penetration values are in the range of about 0 to percent.
  • the pattern can be temporarily affixed to fabric for cutting and marking operations then removed and, if desired, stored for reuse.
  • the adhesive having a penetration value in the indicated range, does not strike through to the front side of the pattern (which is commonly ofa light-weight tissue-like paper) and the pattern can be easily readjusted any number of times on the fabric without tearing the pattern, since the degree oftack is relatively light.
  • the adhesive does not transfer to the fabric to any detectable degree. If it is desired to reuse the pattern after storage it can be unfolded (separation occurring between the adhesive surfaces or between an adhesive surface and a paper surface or both, depending upon the manner in which it was folded) and the pattern reused as before. If the adhesive surface should become exhausted or blocked, as by lint or dust, the backsides of the pattern pieces can be resprayed with the adhesive thereby renewing the adhesive surface.
  • adhesives having initial T-peel resistance and T-pecl resistance after days in the ranges previously defined are possible only with adhesives having initial T-peel resistance and T-pecl resistance after days in the ranges previously defined.
  • adhesives having initial values below 4 grams per inch of width provide insufficient adhesion to hold the pattern (or fabric or other items) on the fabric while cutting. marking or sewing.
  • An initial T-peel resistance above the specified value of 50 grams per inch of width would make it difficult or impossible to unfold a stored pattern which had been previously coated with adhesive without tearing or destroying it.
  • the T-peel resistance not advance above that specified so that the pattern can be stored with the adhesive face in contact with another adhesive face or with a paper (uncoated) face and subsequently unfolded without destruction of the pattern.
  • T-peel resistance should not build up above the specified range upon storage is that the pattern will in some cases be affixed to the fabric and left for a number of days or weeks in that position (after which it must be removed cleanly and without damage to the pattern).
  • An additional important application of the method of the invention involves the fabrication of lined garments.
  • this has involved the construction of two separate portions, the lining and the outer garment, and their subsequent joining.
  • Fabrication of the lining often has required the use of the same pattern used for the outer garment and a consequent duplication of many of the problems normally encountered in using patterns.
  • the insertion of the lining into the outer garment is itself tedious and the positioning of the two prior to sewing is quite difficult.
  • pins are used to hold the lining in place prior to sewing, the proper placement of the pins requires a high degree of skill. Utilizing the adhesive compositions described herein, however, the fabrication of two separate garment portions may be completely avoided.
  • the method of the present invention can also be used for the mounting of trim, lace, rickrack, zippers, bias tapes and findings.
  • trim, lace, rickrack, zippers, bias tapes and findings can be sprayed on the back with the adhesive and pressed (with finger pressure) onto the basic fabric of the garment and thereby held in place until sewed.
  • darts, seams and hems can be held temporarily (until sewed) by the adhesives.
  • the use of pins in all phases of the garment assembly can be completely obviated.
  • the fact that the invention provides a new more convenient method for all temporary holding operations in garment constructions renders it particularly valuable.
  • spots of adhesives may be sprayed at strategic positions if desired.
  • small amounts of the adhesive may remain on the finished garment. in such cases, the adhesive may remain in place, particularly if completely covered, or be removed during washing or drycleaning to avoid any undesirable feel to the fabric or the promotion of soiling in such areas.
  • Adhesive compositions which have been found to be suitable for use in the present invention are dispersions of essentially solvent-insoluble adhesives, such as crosslinked elastomeric polymers (homopolymers and copolymers, i.e., polymers of two or more comonomers) or elastomeric copolymer microspheres, in non-polar solvents.
  • essentially solvent-insoluble adhesives such as crosslinked elastomeric polymers (homopolymers and copolymers, i.e., polymers of two or more comonomers) or elastomeric copolymer microspheres, in non-polar solvents.
  • Crosslinked elastomeric polymers that can be used include homopolymers or copolymers of elastomer producing monomers with a small amount of a crosslinking agent.
  • elastomer producing monomers include olefins such as isobutylene, butadiene-l,3,2- methylbutylene-l ,3,2-3-dimethylbutadienel ,3,2- chlorobutadiene-l,3,etc; mixtures of such olefins with aryl olefins such as styrene, o-,m-, or p-methylstyrene, p-(t-butyl)styrene (e.g. see U.S. Pat. No.
  • acrylic acid esters and monomers copolymerizable therewith such as mixtures of acrylic or methacrylic acid esters of n-butanol, l-methylpcntanol, l-heptanol, iso-octanol, n-docanol, dodecanol, and the like with copolymerizable monomers such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, acrylamide, N-
  • alkylsubstituted acrylamide, acrylonitrile, methacrylamide, methacrylonitrile, and the like is also useful. Also useful is crosslinked natural rubber.
  • Crosslinking agents that may be used include polyfunctional vinyl compounds such as, for example, divinyl benzene, diallyl phthalate, methylene bisacrylamide, l,4-butanediol diacrylate, ethylene diacrylate, diethylene glycol diacrylate, glyceryl triacrylate, and the like.
  • the amount of crosslinking agent employed may vary widely, a suitable range being from about 0.05 percent to about 0.5 percent based on the combined weight of monomers employed.
  • a preferred class of crosslinked elastomeric copolymers for use in the present invention are the sprayable acrylate-adhesive compositions disclosed and claimed in US. Pat. 3,578,622 issued May ll, 1971 to Brown and Kremer, which are copolymers of an acrylic acid ester (which term includes alkyl substituted acrylic acid esters such as methacrylic acid esters) and at least one monomer eopolymerizable therewith. Preferably these contain at least about 50 percent by weight of the acrylic acid ester, said acrylate polymer being crosslinked while in emulsion and having an insolubility factor (as defined in US. 3,578,622) of from about 0.5 to 0.97.
  • Suitable elastomeric copolymer microspheres can be more completely defined as infusible, non-polar organic liquid dispersible, non-polar organic liquidinsoluble, inherently tacky, elastomeric copolymer microspheres consisting essentially of about 90 percent to about 99.5 percent by weight of at least one alkyl acrylate ester and about to about 0.5 percent by weight of at least one monomer selected from the group consisting ofsubstantially oil-insoluble, water-soluble ionic monomers and maleic anhydride.
  • microspheres are prepared by an aqueous suspension polymerization technique utilizing anionic emulsifiers in an amount greater than the critical micelle concentration and a freeradical polymerization catalyst, such as benzoyl peroxide, in a concentration of about 0.15 to 0.6 percent in the absence of protective colloids, finely divided inorganic solids, or the like.
  • anionic emulsifiers in an amount greater than the critical micelle concentration and a freeradical polymerization catalyst, such as benzoyl peroxide, in a concentration of about 0.15 to 0.6 percent in the absence of protective colloids, finely divided inorganic solids, or the like.
  • the alkyl acrylate ester monomer portion of the copolymer microspheres may comprise one ester monomer or a mixture of two or more.
  • ester monomers such as iso-octyl acrylate, 4-methyl-2-pentyl acrylate, 2- methylbutyl acrylate, sec-butyl acrylate, and the like.
  • the water-soluble, substantially oil-insoluble monomer portion of the copolymer microspheres may comprise maleic anhydride alone, an ionic monomer alone, a mixture of two or more ionic monomers, or a mixture of maleic anhydride with one or more ionic monomers.
  • Suitable ionic monomers include sodium methacrylate.
  • ammonium acrylate sodium acrylate, trimethylamine p-vinyl benzimide, 4,4,9-trimethyl-4- azonia-7-oxo-8-oxa-dec-9-enel -sulphonate, N,N- dimethyl-N-(B-methacryloxyethyl)ammonium propionate betaine, trimethylamine methacrylimide, 1,1- dimethyll (2,3-clihydroxypropyl )amine methacrylimide, etc.
  • the copolymer microspheres are small in size, having diameters in the range of about 1 to about 250 microns, the diameter of the majority of the spheres falling in the range of about 5 to about 150 microns.
  • the spheres are normally tacky and elastomeric, are insoluble in organic solvents, and form suspensions in all common solvents except highly polar solvents such as water, methanol, and ethanol.
  • the aqueous suspension of copolymer microspheres is stable to agglomeration or coagulation under room temperature conditions.
  • the copolymer suspension may have non-volatile solids contents from aboutlO to about 50 percent by weight.
  • the aqueous dispersion may be coagulated with methanol, saturated salt solutions, or the like, followed by washing and drying. These dried polymer spheres, with sufficient agitation, can be readily suspended in a variety of common organic solvents in the manner hereinafter described.
  • the adhesive compositions suitable for use in the method of the invention are prepared by dispersing the essentially solvent-insoluble tacky pressure-sensitive adhesive in a non-polar solvent. This is generally done by steeping the adhesive in the solvent for a sufficient period of time, usually 3 to 24 hours to allow the adhesive to swell and then subjecting the swollen polymer in the solvent to shear conditions until a smooth dispersion is obtained.
  • Typical useful solvents are ethyl acetate, tetrahydrofuran, heptane, 2--butanone and other ketones, 1,1,l-trichloroethane and other chlorinated hydrocarbons, benzene, cyclohexane, esters, isopropanol, and higher alcohols.
  • Tackifying resin may conveniently be added during the steeping operation.
  • Typical examples of tackifier resins that may be employed include polyterpenes, wood rosins, hydrogenated rosin, coumarone-indene resins, stabilized ester resins, and terpene phenolics.
  • the amount of resin that may be used may vary greatly; from O to 200 parts by weight of resin per parts of solvent-insoluble tacky pressure-sensitive adhesive.
  • the tackifying resin is selected on the basis of solubility or compatibility with the solvent employed.
  • other additives in addition to tackifiers that may be added include viscosity stabilizers, an tioxidants, and pigments, generally in minor amounts.
  • Aerosol sprays are prepared by introducing suitable adhesive compositions, as previously described, and an aerosol propellant into an aerosol container.
  • Aerosol propellants suitable in the practice of this invention are the conventional pressure-liquifiable, normally gaseous propellants such as propane, isobutane, commercial fluorochlorohydrocarbons such as Freons, vinyl chloride, dimethyl ether and blends of the foregoing. Gaseous propellants such as carbon dioxide and nitrous oxide may also be employed.
  • the propellant is usually present in liquefied form and is dissolved in the carrier liquid.
  • the propellant should be of a type which will not interact with the packaged adhesive in such a manner that the adhesive properties will be adversely affected.
  • the liquefied propellant becomes part of the solvent system in the container and exhibits a solvating effect on the materials dissolved and suspended in the liquid in the container.
  • the aerosol container preferably is of the type in which the propellant is in liquefied form and mixed with the adhesive composition.
  • the propellant vaporizes substantially instantaneously, thereby breaking up the stream into airborne particles of the desired size.
  • the pressures used generally range between 25 and 80 p.s.i.g., the latter limit being imposed for reasons of safety during shipment and storage. About 45 p.s.i.g. pressure in the container is generally preferred.
  • Typical atomization (line) pressures are on the order of 2090 p.s.i.g.; typical fluid (pot) pressures are -30 p.s.i.g.
  • the penetration value expressed as the percent of adhesive in an adhesive dispersion to pass through a piece of pattern paper, is determined as follows:
  • Dispersions of adhesive candidates are prepared in appropriate liquid; e.g., toluene, trichloroethylene, etc., to contain about 4 to 7 percent adhesive solids and the solids concentration (Sc) determined accurately according to the following equation:
  • W is the initial weight of the dispersion in a sample and W is the weight of the solids remaining after the sample has been heated for 24 hours at 100 C. to remove volatiles. About 3 grams of the dispersion are then placed in a small container and the container and its contents weighed. This weight is designated A,.
  • a 4 X 4 inch 10.1 X 10.1 cm) square ofdressmakers pattern paper having a basis weight of about 14-15 grams/m a thickness of about ll .5 mils and a porosity of about 79 seconds per 100 cc of air when measured on a Gurley-Hill SPS Tester according to TAPPl test D 460-m49 on 24 layers of paper, is used.
  • the paper is placed over and in contact with 2 previously dried and weighed squares of blotter paper. Suitable blotter paper squares are 4 inches (10.1 cm) on a side and have an average thickness of about 0.5 mm and an average weight of the order of 0.3 kg/m*, previously dried for 24 hours at about 100 C. and weighed.
  • the combined weight of the 2 dry blotter paper squares is designated as B,.
  • B The combined weight of the 2 dry blotter paper squares.
  • the test dispersion is poured from the container and the container and residual dispersion contained therein are again weighed.
  • This weight is designated A
  • the solution or suspension is allowed to soak into the assembly until no liquid is obvious on the pattern paper.
  • the pattern paper is removed from the assembly, the wet blotter assembly is dried for 24 hours at 100 C. in a circulating air oven, and the dried blotter assembly is weighed. This weight is designated B The penetration value.
  • T-peel resistance is determined by ASTM Standard Method Designation D1876-69, the separation being between two adhesive layers coated on dressmakers pattern paper (of the type defined in the Example 1
  • a pressure-sensitive microsphere adhesive was prepared as follows: A 500 ml. indented 3-neck flask fitted with a stirrer was charged with ml. of deoxygenated distilled water, 48.5 g. iso-octyl acrylate, 1.5 g. ammonium acrylate, 1.0 g. ammonium lauryl sulfate (commercially available from Alcola Chemical Company under the trade designation Sipex A) and 0.15 g. benzoyl peroxide.
  • the mixture was heated to 65 C., maintained at this temperature for 20 hours with rapid stirring (about 550 rpm), cooled to 20 C., and filtered through cheesecloth to provide a suspension of tacky microspheres on the order of 10 to microns in diameter.
  • the microspheres were coagulated and washed with methanol and suspended in 250 g. of hexane.
  • a garment pattern (on paper having a basis weight of 14-15 grams/m a thickness of l-1.5 mils and a porosity of 7-9 seconds per 100 cc of air when measured on a Gurley-Hill SPS Tester according to TAPPI test D- 460-m49 on 24 layers of paper) was coated with the foregoing pressure-sensitive microsphere adhesive at a level of 2.4 grams per square meter using an aerosol spray container containing 31.2 grams of a 16 percent by weight dispersion of the microsphere adhesive in hexane, 59 grams of isobutane and 9.3 grams of propane.
  • the pattern was adhered to cottom poplin, Dacron tricot, acetate sheath lining, 100 percent heavy wool fabric, a whipped cream 100 percent Dacron fabric and a bonded knit fabric. For each fabric the bonding of the pattern to the fabric was sufficient to permit easy cutting and handling of the pattern/fabric composite. The pattern was easily removed from the fabric with no detectible transfer of adhesive from the pattern to the fabric. There was no detectible change in the adhesiveness of the pattern after removal from each fabric. The
  • the pattern was folded onto itself in such a manner that there was adhesive to adhesive contact and adhesive to uncoated paper contact.
  • the pattern could be easily unfolded with no tearing or damage to the pattern.
  • the unfolded pattern was again applied to a number of fabrics with the same results described above.
  • the pattern was folded on itself and allowed to remain folded for four days, unfolded, and again adhered to the fabrics listed above with the same results.
  • copolymers similar to the foregoing but wherein the amount of the acrylic acid component ranges from about 3 to 12 percent by weight, based on the combined monomer weights, are also suitable for use in the methods hereof.
  • Example 2 A pattern (McCalls No. 9629), was coated with the Example 3 Example 1 was repeated at a coating level of 1.0 grams per square meter. Samples were found to have a T-peel resistance of 20 grams per inch of width.
  • Example 4 Example 1 was repeated at a coating level of 0.5 grams per square meter. Samples were found to have a T-peel resistance of 10 grams per inch of width. After storage for 30 days samples were found to have essentially the same T-peel resistance.
  • Example 5 A paper pattern having a thickness of 1.2 mils, a basis weight of 14.4 g./m and a porosity of 7.6 seconds/ 100 cc of air through 24 layers of paper (as determined on a Gurley Hill SPS Tester in accordance with TAPPl test D460-m49) was coated with a crosslinked elastomeric copolymer adhesive (prepared as hereinbelow described in accordance with the disclosures of US. Pat. No. 3,578,622) at a level of 2.0 grams per square meter using an aerosol spray containing 30 grams of a 12 percent by weight dispersion of the adhesive in hexane, 62 grams of isobutane and 9.8 grams of propane.
  • a crosslinked elastomeric copolymer adhesive prepared as hereinbelow described in accordance with the disclosures of US. Pat. No. 3,578,622
  • the pattern adheres to cotton poplin, Dacron tricot, acetate sheath lining, wool and other fabric sufficiently to permit easy cutting and handling.
  • the adhesive on the pattern was found to have a penetration value of 34 percent. Samples of adhesive coated pattern, folded adhesive surface to adhesive surface and stored, were found to be easily unfolded after 6 months of storage.
  • the crosslinked elastomeric copolymer adhesive is prepared as follows: A 1000 ml. indented three-neck flask fitted with a mechanical stirrer, a condenser, and provisions for the maintenance of a nitrogen atmosphere in the flask is charged with 300 ml. ofdeoxygenated distilled water, 9.5 g. acrylic acid, 180.5 g. isoocytyl acrylate, 0.4 g. ethylene diacrylate, 0.3 g. t-dodecyl mercaptan, and 13.6 g. of a surface active agent (available commercially from the Rohm and Haas Company of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. under the trade designation Triton X200).
  • a surface active agent available commercially from the Rohm and Haas Company of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. under the trade designation Triton X200.
  • the steps of l. applying to a first sheet surface at a coating weight of from about 0.2 to 7 grams per square meter, based on adhesive solids, an aerosol spray of a normally tacky pressure-sensitive adhesive composition comprising adispersion of an adhesive in a propellant at autogenous pressure, the dispersion having a penetration value of from 0 to about 40 percent and the adhesive having an initial T-peel resistance of 4 to 50 grams per inch of width and a T-peel resistance of not more than 50 grams per inch of width after storage for 30 days at 25 C.
  • a method of constructing garments comprising the steps of l. applying to a garment pattern at a coating weight of fromabout 0.2 to 7 grams per square meter, based on'adhesive solids, an aerosol spray of a normally tacky pressure-sensitive adhesive composition comprising a dispersion of an adhesive in a propellant at autogenous pressure, the dispersion having a penetration value of'from 0 to about 40 percent and the adhesive having an initial T-peel resistance of 4 to 50 grams per inch of width and a T-peel resistance of not more than 50 grams per inch of width after storage for 30 days at 25 C.,
  • a method of constructing garments comprising the steps of 1. applying to a garment lining fabric at a coating weight of from about 0.2 to 7 grams per square meter, based on adhesive solids, an aerosol spray of a normally tacky pressure-sensitive adhesive composition comprising a dispersion of an adhesive in a propellant at autogenous pressure, the dispersion having a penetration value of from 0 to about 40 percent and the adhesive having an initial T-peel resistance of 4 to 50 grams per-inch of width and a T-peel resistance of not more than 50 grams per inch of width after storage for 30 days at 25 C.,
  • a method according to claim 1 wherein the adhesive is an elastomeric copolymer microsphere adhesive.
  • the adhesive is a copolymer of isooctylacrylate and from about 3 to about 12 percent by weight based on the combined monomer weights of ammonium acrylate.
  • the adhesive is a crosslinked elastomeric acrylate polymer of at least about 50 percent by weight of an acrylic acid ester, said acrylate polymer being crosslinked while in emulsion and having an insolubility factor of from about 0.5 to about 0.97.
  • a method according to claim 9 wherein the adhesive is a copolymer of isooctyl acrylate and acrylic acid.

Abstract

A method for construction with fabrics, and the like comprising temporarily securing fabric pieces by means of an aerosol spray of a normally tacky pressure-sensitive adhesive composition comprising a dispersion of an adhesive in a propellant at autogenous pressure, the dispersion having a particularly low penetration value and the adhesive having initial and subsequent peel resistances within defined, and relatively low, ranges.

Description

United States Patent 1191 Fairbanks et a1.
FABRIC PATTERN CONSTRUCTION METHOD Inventors: Charles W. Fairbanks, Saint Paul;
Roger W. Leinen, Woodbury, both of Minn.
Minnesota Mining and Manufacturing Company, St., Minn.
Filed: Dec. 23, 1971 Appl. No.: 211,720
Assignee:
US. Cl 156/309, 33/12, 117/104 R, 117/122 P, 117/122 PA, 156/307, 156/332, 156/344, 161/231, 161/232, 161/DIG. 5
Int. Cl....... C09j 5/00, B32b 31/12, A41h 3/00 Field of Search 33/12; ll7/68.5, 104 R, 117/122 PA, 122 P; 156/307, 309, 332, 247, 248, 344; 161/231, 232; 252/316 References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 11/1946 1 MacNab 33/12 [111 3,821,055 June 28, 1974 2,795,047 6/1957 Berlin 33/12 3,092,250 6/1963 Knutson et al 206/59 3,219,476 1l/1965 Robbins 117/100 3,249,457 5/1966 Lynch 117/25 3,371,071 2/1968 Brooks et a1. 260/78.5 3,560,319 2/1971 Kuhlman 161/89 Primary Examiner-Charles E. Van Horn Assistant Examiner-Robert A. Dawson Attorney, Agent, or Firm-Kinney, Alexander, Sell, Stedlt & DeLal-lunt [57] ABSTRACT 10 Claims, N0 Drawings 1 FABRIC PATTERN CONSTRUCTION METHOD This invention relates to a method for construction with fabrics, and the like comprising temporarily securing fabric pieces by means of an aerosol spray of a normally tacky pressure-sensitive adhesive composition comprising a dispersion of an adhesive in a propellant at autogenous pressure, the dispersion having a particularly low penetration value and the adhesive having initial and subsequent peel resistances within defined, and relatively low, ranges.
Although the method is useful in all fabric constructions (including upholstery, drapery, and other applications) the most common is garment construction, which will be used herein for purposes of discussion and illustration. Patterns for garments and the like generally consist of a number of individual pieces of tissuelike paper representing the different components of a garment or article. These pattern pieces also carry various printed details and directions for constructing the garment. in constructing a garment, the fabric (or other material to be used) is first laid on a flat working surface and the pieces of the pattern are then carefully positioned on the fabric with attention to the weave, shape and size of the material. Commonly, the pattern pieces are secured to the fabric using straight pins, or garment makers pins, prior to cutting and marking the fabric.
The pinning procedure, however, has a number of disadvantages. Not only is it time consuming but the fabric with the pattern pinned to it is not convenient or pleasant to handle. The paper of which the pattern is made is generally weak and easily torn and at the same time is crisp and stiff (thus resisting conformance to the soft nature of fabrics). As a result, the pattern tends to slip on the fabric during pinning and bulges and wrinkles often occur (particularly when the newer stretchable fabrics are utilized). Due to such bulging and wrinkling it is frequently necessary to repin parts of the pattern to make them lie flat and smooth on the fabric, and this can result in a change in the position of the pattern relative to the fabric and additional unwanted holes in the fabric. Sometimes the pattern is askew after the final pinning and, while not noticeable at the time, a
misfit or poor hang" of the finished garment may be the pattern by folding over the pattern and pinning the fold or by cutting the pattern and inserting additional paper (by pinning the inserted paper to the edges of the cut pattern). These operations are awkward and require considerable skill and patience. Tearing of the pattern is likely and handling is disagreeable due for example to the possibility of pin pricks in the fingers.
Various alternatives to the use of pins have been suggested to avoid the above mentioned difficulties, including, the use of adhesives to secure the pattern to the fabric. The following are examplary:
US. Pat. No. 2,41 1,328 discloses a method of making a garment using a pattern having a pressuresensitive or gum type (water activatible) adhesive applied to portions of the backside of the pattern (in spots or lines). Such patterns are intended to be adhered to the fabric for cutting and marking and then removed without tearing the pattern, thus allowing for reuse until exhaustion of the adhesive (or until the adhesive becomes blocked with lint, dust or the like).
US. Pat. No. 2,657,159 discloses a method of making a garment using a pattern having marginal outlines of adhesive on the backside thereof. The pattern is placed over the fabric and the adhesive is activated (e.g. by means of a hot iron) at which time it transfers to the fabric. The pattern is then removed leaving sticky adhesive lines on the fabric. The fabric is cut outside the adhesive lines and the various pieces of fabric are pressed together along these lines to hold them for sewing. It appears that this pattern would be suitable for a single use only.
US. Pat. No. 2,756,434 concerns a method of making garments using patterns covered over the backside with a thermoplastic heat-scalable resin. The pattern is temporarily bonded to fabric by means of a hand iron (which causes the adhesive to soften and become waxlike). The pattern thus adhered to the fabric is left in place during cutting and sewing operations and thereafter stripped from the fabric.
Although the method of making garments and the like using adhesives to secure patterns to fabrics is quite old in the art (all of the previously mentioned patents have been issued for 15 years or more) the use of pins for affixing patterns to fabric during cutting and marking is still almost universal. This indicates that the difficulty and expense involved in the use of adhesives with dressmakers patterns as previously suggested have been greater than those involved in the conventional pinning method. Indeed, this is believed to be true. Thus pattern manufacture and packaging costs would be multiplied with the application of adhesives to the backside thereof. The application of adhesive bearing patterns as previously suggested would, at least in most cases, involve the additional difficulty of adhesive activation (such as by application of heat or water) and the patterns would have limited reuse life (being useable only once or at most two or three times until exhaustion or blocking of the adhesive). These and other difficulties are obviated by the present invention, which, in its broadest aspect, includes the steps in the construction with fabrics of:
l. applying to a first sheet surface at a coating weight of from about 0.2 to 7 grams per square meter, based on adhesive solids, an aerosol spray of a normally tacky, pressure-sensitive adhesive composition comprising a dispersion of an adhesive in a propellant at autogenous pressure, the dispersion having a penetration value of from O to about 40 percent and the adhesive having an initial T-peel resistance of 4 to 50 grams per inch of width and a T-peel resistance of not more than 50 grams per inch of width after storage for 30 days at 25 C. (all as defined hereinafter),
2. positioning and temporarily adhering the first sheet surface on a second sheet surface, and
3. carrying out construction steps thereon.
By nonnally tacky in the foregoing it is meant that the adhesive is sticky to the touch at temperatures approximating room temperature. By pressuresensitive" is meant that the adhesive is capable of forming a sheet to sheet bond after a brief set up time by applying finger tip pressure to press the sheets together.
The most common use of the present method is the temporary adhesion together of a garment pattern and the garment fabric (generally a woven, knit, etc. textile fabric). In this use the aerosol spray of the adhesive is applied to the back of any conventional dressmakers pattern from an aerosol can. Coating weights of from about 0.2 to about 7 grams per square meter (about 0.02 to 0.7 grams per square foot) of adhesive are applied these and the other coating weights herein are on a dry basis, i.e., after evaporation of volatiles). Less adhesive produces a coating with insufficient adhesion and more produces a coating that is bulky, causing pattern pieces to be messy, unpleasant to touch and difficult to handle. Preferred coating weights are from 0.5 to grams per square meter (about 0.05 to 0.5 grams per square foot) and preferred penetration values are in the range of about 0 to percent.
After spraying, the pattern can be temporarily affixed to fabric for cutting and marking operations then removed and, if desired, stored for reuse. The adhesive, having a penetration value in the indicated range, does not strike through to the front side of the pattern (which is commonly ofa light-weight tissue-like paper) and the pattern can be easily readjusted any number of times on the fabric without tearing the pattern, since the degree oftack is relatively light. The adhesive does not transfer to the fabric to any detectable degree. If it is desired to reuse the pattern after storage it can be unfolded (separation occurring between the adhesive surfaces or between an adhesive surface and a paper surface or both, depending upon the manner in which it was folded) and the pattern reused as before. If the adhesive surface should become exhausted or blocked, as by lint or dust, the backsides of the pattern pieces can be resprayed with the adhesive thereby renewing the adhesive surface.
The foregoing features are possible only with adhesives having initial T-peel resistance and T-pecl resistance after days in the ranges previously defined. Thus, adhesives having initial values below 4 grams per inch of width provide insufficient adhesion to hold the pattern (or fabric or other items) on the fabric while cutting. marking or sewing. An initial T-peel resistance above the specified value of 50 grams per inch of width, on the other hand, would make it difficult or impossible to unfold a stored pattern which had been previously coated with adhesive without tearing or destroying it. Also, it is necessary that the T-peel resistance not advance above that specified so that the pattern can be stored with the adhesive face in contact with another adhesive face or with a paper (uncoated) face and subsequently unfolded without destruction of the pattern. Another reason that the T-peel resistance should not build up above the specified range upon storage is that the pattern will in some cases be affixed to the fabric and left for a number of days or weeks in that position (after which it must be removed cleanly and without damage to the pattern).
An additional important application of the method of the invention involves the fabrication of lined garments. Conventionally this has involved the construction of two separate portions, the lining and the outer garment, and their subsequent joining. Fabrication of the lining often has required the use of the same pattern used for the outer garment and a consequent duplication of many of the problems normally encountered in using patterns. The insertion of the lining into the outer garment is itself tedious and the positioning of the two prior to sewing is quite difficult. When pins are used to hold the lining in place prior to sewing, the proper placement of the pins requires a high degree of skill. Utilizing the adhesive compositions described herein, however, the fabrication of two separate garment portions may be completely avoided. This is done by applying the adhesive composition to one surface of the lining fabric, positioning the outer fabric on the adhesive coated surface of the lining, and positioning the garment pattern with its adhesive coated surface on the outer fabric in a temporary laminate in accordance with the method of the present invention. The laminate is then cut along the line of the pattern, the pattern removed, and the laminate of the lining and outer fabric assembled and sewed as one unit. Thus, the insertion of the lining into the outer garment is avoided.
The method of the present invention can also be used for the mounting of trim, lace, rickrack, zippers, bias tapes and findings. Thus they can be sprayed on the back with the adhesive and pressed (with finger pressure) onto the basic fabric of the garment and thereby held in place until sewed. Furthermore, darts, seams and hems can be held temporarily (until sewed) by the adhesives. Thus, by means of the present invention, the use of pins in all phases of the garment assembly can be completely obviated. The fact that the invention provides a new more convenient method for all temporary holding operations in garment constructions renders it particularly valuable.
it is not necessary that the entire back surface of the pattern be covered in every case and this will be a matter of choice at the time of use. Thus, spots of adhesives may be sprayed at strategic positions if desired.
In some applications of the invention (e.g. in the situations involving adhesion of fabric to fabric) small amounts of the adhesive may remain on the finished garment. in such cases, the adhesive may remain in place, particularly if completely covered, or be removed during washing or drycleaning to avoid any undesirable feel to the fabric or the promotion of soiling in such areas.
Adhesive compositions which have been found to be suitable for use in the present invention are dispersions of essentially solvent-insoluble adhesives, such as crosslinked elastomeric polymers (homopolymers and copolymers, i.e., polymers of two or more comonomers) or elastomeric copolymer microspheres, in non-polar solvents.
Crosslinked elastomeric polymers that can be used include homopolymers or copolymers of elastomer producing monomers with a small amount of a crosslinking agent. Such elastomer producing monomers include olefins such as isobutylene, butadiene-l,3,2- methylbutylene-l ,3,2-3-dimethylbutadienel ,3,2- chlorobutadiene-l,3,etc; mixtures of such olefins with aryl olefins such as styrene, o-,m-, or p-methylstyrene, p-(t-butyl)styrene (e.g. see U.S. Pat. No. 3,400,095) and mixtures of acrylic acid esters and monomers copolymerizable therewith such as mixtures of acrylic or methacrylic acid esters of n-butanol, l-methylpcntanol, l-heptanol, iso-octanol, n-docanol, dodecanol, and the like with copolymerizable monomers such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, acrylamide, N-
alkylsubstituted acrylamide, acrylonitrile, methacrylamide, methacrylonitrile, and the like. Also useful is crosslinked natural rubber.
Crosslinking agents that may be used include polyfunctional vinyl compounds such as, for example, divinyl benzene, diallyl phthalate, methylene bisacrylamide, l,4-butanediol diacrylate, ethylene diacrylate, diethylene glycol diacrylate, glyceryl triacrylate, and the like. The amount of crosslinking agent employed may vary widely, a suitable range being from about 0.05 percent to about 0.5 percent based on the combined weight of monomers employed.
A preferred class of crosslinked elastomeric copolymers for use in the present invention are the sprayable acrylate-adhesive compositions disclosed and claimed in US. Pat. 3,578,622 issued May ll, 1971 to Brown and Kremer, which are copolymers of an acrylic acid ester (which term includes alkyl substituted acrylic acid esters such as methacrylic acid esters) and at least one monomer eopolymerizable therewith. Preferably these contain at least about 50 percent by weight of the acrylic acid ester, said acrylate polymer being crosslinked while in emulsion and having an insolubility factor (as defined in US. 3,578,622) of from about 0.5 to 0.97.
Suitable elastomeric copolymer microspheres can be more completely defined as infusible, non-polar organic liquid dispersible, non-polar organic liquidinsoluble, inherently tacky, elastomeric copolymer microspheres consisting essentially of about 90 percent to about 99.5 percent by weight of at least one alkyl acrylate ester and about to about 0.5 percent by weight of at least one monomer selected from the group consisting ofsubstantially oil-insoluble, water-soluble ionic monomers and maleic anhydride. These microspheres are prepared by an aqueous suspension polymerization technique utilizing anionic emulsifiers in an amount greater than the critical micelle concentration and a freeradical polymerization catalyst, such as benzoyl peroxide, in a concentration of about 0.15 to 0.6 percent in the absence of protective colloids, finely divided inorganic solids, or the like. i
The alkyl acrylate ester monomer portion of the copolymer microspheres may comprise one ester monomer or a mixture of two or more. ester monomers such as iso-octyl acrylate, 4-methyl-2-pentyl acrylate, 2- methylbutyl acrylate, sec-butyl acrylate, and the like. Similarly, the water-soluble, substantially oil-insoluble monomer portion of the copolymer microspheres may comprise maleic anhydride alone, an ionic monomer alone, a mixture of two or more ionic monomers, or a mixture of maleic anhydride with one or more ionic monomers. Suitable ionic monomers include sodium methacrylate. ammonium acrylate, sodium acrylate, trimethylamine p-vinyl benzimide, 4,4,9-trimethyl-4- azonia-7-oxo-8-oxa-dec-9-enel -sulphonate, N,N- dimethyl-N-(B-methacryloxyethyl)ammonium propionate betaine, trimethylamine methacrylimide, 1,1- dimethyll (2,3-clihydroxypropyl )amine methacrylimide, etc.
The copolymer microspheres are small in size, having diameters in the range of about 1 to about 250 microns, the diameter of the majority of the spheres falling in the range of about 5 to about 150 microns. The spheres are normally tacky and elastomeric, are insoluble in organic solvents, and form suspensions in all common solvents except highly polar solvents such as water, methanol, and ethanol.
Following polymerization, the aqueous suspension of copolymer microspheres is stable to agglomeration or coagulation under room temperature conditions. The copolymer suspension may have non-volatile solids contents from aboutlO to about 50 percent by weight. The aqueous dispersion may be coagulated with methanol, saturated salt solutions, or the like, followed by washing and drying. These dried polymer spheres, with sufficient agitation, can be readily suspended in a variety of common organic solvents in the manner hereinafter described.
The adhesive compositions suitable for use in the method of the invention are prepared by dispersing the essentially solvent-insoluble tacky pressure-sensitive adhesive in a non-polar solvent. This is generally done by steeping the adhesive in the solvent for a sufficient period of time, usually 3 to 24 hours to allow the adhesive to swell and then subjecting the swollen polymer in the solvent to shear conditions until a smooth dispersion is obtained. Typical useful solvents are ethyl acetate, tetrahydrofuran, heptane, 2--butanone and other ketones, 1,1,l-trichloroethane and other chlorinated hydrocarbons, benzene, cyclohexane, esters, isopropanol, and higher alcohols.
Tackifying resin may conveniently be added during the steeping operation. Typical examples of tackifier resins that may be employed include polyterpenes, wood rosins, hydrogenated rosin, coumarone-indene resins, stabilized ester resins, and terpene phenolics. Reference is made to US. Pat. No. 3,239,478 (Harlan) for tackifying resins suitable in the practice of this invention. The amount of resin that may be used may vary greatly; from O to 200 parts by weight of resin per parts of solvent-insoluble tacky pressure-sensitive adhesive. The tackifying resin is selected on the basis of solubility or compatibility with the solvent employed. Optionally, other additives in addition to tackifiers that may be added include viscosity stabilizers, an tioxidants, and pigments, generally in minor amounts.
The aerosol sprays are prepared by introducing suitable adhesive compositions, as previously described, and an aerosol propellant into an aerosol container. Aerosol propellants suitable in the practice of this invention are the conventional pressure-liquifiable, normally gaseous propellants such as propane, isobutane, commercial fluorochlorohydrocarbons such as Freons, vinyl chloride, dimethyl ether and blends of the foregoing. Gaseous propellants such as carbon dioxide and nitrous oxide may also be employed. In the container, the propellant is usually present in liquefied form and is dissolved in the carrier liquid. The propellant should be of a type which will not interact with the packaged adhesive in such a manner that the adhesive properties will be adversely affected. The liquefied propellant becomes part of the solvent system in the container and exhibits a solvating effect on the materials dissolved and suspended in the liquid in the container.
Various types of conventional aerosol containers can be used in practicing the invention. Conventional tinplated cans will generally suffice, but if the adhesive composition contains ingredients reactive with the metal of the containers, the same should be coated on their inner surfaces with a stable polymeric coating such as polyvinyl chloride or an epoxy polymer in order to minimize any deleterious interaction between the adhesive composition and the container.
The aerosol container preferably is of the type in which the propellant is in liquefied form and mixed with the adhesive composition. As the stream of adhesive and liquefied propellant is dispensed from the orifice in the nozzle of the aerosol container, the propellant vaporizes substantially instantaneously, thereby breaking up the stream into airborne particles of the desired size. The pressures used generally range between 25 and 80 p.s.i.g., the latter limit being imposed for reasons of safety during shipment and storage. About 45 p.s.i.g. pressure in the container is generally preferred.
Conventional spray equipment may be employed, selecting the air cap, fluid tip assemblies, and spray conditions to optimize the quality of the spray. Typical atomization (line) pressures are on the order of 2090 p.s.i.g.; typical fluid (pot) pressures are -30 p.s.i.g.
The penetration value, expressed as the percent of adhesive in an adhesive dispersion to pass through a piece of pattern paper, is determined as follows:
Dispersions of adhesive candidates are prepared in appropriate liquid; e.g., toluene, trichloroethylene, etc., to contain about 4 to 7 percent adhesive solids and the solids concentration (Sc) determined accurately according to the following equation:
wherein W, is the initial weight of the dispersion in a sample and W is the weight of the solids remaining after the sample has been heated for 24 hours at 100 C. to remove volatiles. About 3 grams of the dispersion are then placed in a small container and the container and its contents weighed. This weight is designated A,.
A 4 X 4 inch 10.1 X 10.1 cm) square ofdressmakers pattern paper, having a basis weight of about 14-15 grams/m a thickness of about ll .5 mils and a porosity of about 79 seconds per 100 cc of air when measured on a Gurley-Hill SPS Tester according to TAPPl test D 460-m49 on 24 layers of paper, is used. The paper is placed over and in contact with 2 previously dried and weighed squares of blotter paper. Suitable blotter paper squares are 4 inches (10.1 cm) on a side and have an average thickness of about 0.5 mm and an average weight of the order of 0.3 kg/m*, previously dried for 24 hours at about 100 C. and weighed. The combined weight of the 2 dry blotter paper squares is designated as B,. Onto the middle of this assembly, the test dispersion is poured from the container and the container and residual dispersion contained therein are again weighed. This weight is designated A The solution or suspension is allowed to soak into the assembly until no liquid is obvious on the pattern paper. The pattern paper is removed from the assembly, the wet blotter assembly is dried for 24 hours at 100 C. in a circulating air oven, and the dried blotter assembly is weighed. This weight is designated B The penetration value. V,,, in percent is calculated using the expression The initial T-peel resistance is determined by ASTM Standard Method Designation D1876-69, the separation being between two adhesive layers coated on dressmakers pattern paper (of the type defined in the Example 1 A pressure-sensitive microsphere adhesive was prepared as follows: A 500 ml. indented 3-neck flask fitted with a stirrer was charged with ml. of deoxygenated distilled water, 48.5 g. iso-octyl acrylate, 1.5 g. ammonium acrylate, 1.0 g. ammonium lauryl sulfate (commercially available from Alcola Chemical Company under the trade designation Sipex A) and 0.15 g. benzoyl peroxide. The mixture was heated to 65 C., maintained at this temperature for 20 hours with rapid stirring (about 550 rpm), cooled to 20 C., and filtered through cheesecloth to provide a suspension of tacky microspheres on the order of 10 to microns in diameter. The microspheres were coagulated and washed with methanol and suspended in 250 g. of hexane.
A garment pattern (on paper having a basis weight of 14-15 grams/m a thickness of l-1.5 mils and a porosity of 7-9 seconds per 100 cc of air when measured on a Gurley-Hill SPS Tester according to TAPPI test D- 460-m49 on 24 layers of paper) was coated with the foregoing pressure-sensitive microsphere adhesive at a level of 2.4 grams per square meter using an aerosol spray container containing 31.2 grams of a 16 percent by weight dispersion of the microsphere adhesive in hexane, 59 grams of isobutane and 9.3 grams of propane.
The pattern was adhered to cottom poplin, Dacron tricot, acetate sheath lining, 100 percent heavy wool fabric, a whipped cream 100 percent Dacron fabric and a bonded knit fabric. For each fabric the bonding of the pattern to the fabric was sufficient to permit easy cutting and handling of the pattern/fabric composite. The pattern was easily removed from the fabric with no detectible transfer of adhesive from the pattern to the fabric. There was no detectible change in the adhesiveness of the pattern after removal from each fabric. The
pattern was folded onto itself in such a manner that there was adhesive to adhesive contact and adhesive to uncoated paper contact. The pattern could be easily unfolded with no tearing or damage to the pattern. The unfolded pattern was again applied to a number of fabrics with the same results described above. The pattern was folded on itself and allowed to remain folded for four days, unfolded, and again adhered to the fabrics listed above with the same results.
Samples of the foregoing coated pattern when pressed on cotton fabric were found to have a T-peel resistance of l 1 grams per inch of width, the adhesive on the pattern was found to have a penetration value of zero. The pattern was folded adhesive surface to ad hesive surface and stored for six months. It was easily unfolded at the end of that time.
Other copolymers similar to the foregoing but wherein the amount of the acrylic acid component ranges from about 3 to 12 percent by weight, based on the combined monomer weights, are also suitable for use in the methods hereof.
Example 2 A pattern (McCalls No. 9629), was coated with the Example 3 Example 1 was repeated at a coating level of 1.0 grams per square meter. Samples were found to have a T-peel resistance of 20 grams per inch of width.
Example 4 Example 1 was repeated at a coating level of 0.5 grams per square meter. Samples were found to have a T-peel resistance of 10 grams per inch of width. After storage for 30 days samples were found to have essentially the same T-peel resistance.
Example 5 A paper pattern having a thickness of 1.2 mils, a basis weight of 14.4 g./m and a porosity of 7.6 seconds/ 100 cc of air through 24 layers of paper (as determined on a Gurley Hill SPS Tester in accordance with TAPPl test D460-m49) was coated with a crosslinked elastomeric copolymer adhesive (prepared as hereinbelow described in accordance with the disclosures of US. Pat. No. 3,578,622) at a level of 2.0 grams per square meter using an aerosol spray containing 30 grams of a 12 percent by weight dispersion of the adhesive in hexane, 62 grams of isobutane and 9.8 grams of propane.
The pattern adheres to cotton poplin, Dacron tricot, acetate sheath lining, wool and other fabric sufficiently to permit easy cutting and handling. The adhesive on the pattern was found to have a penetration value of 34 percent. Samples of adhesive coated pattern, folded adhesive surface to adhesive surface and stored, were found to be easily unfolded after 6 months of storage.
The crosslinked elastomeric copolymer adhesive is prepared as follows: A 1000 ml. indented three-neck flask fitted with a mechanical stirrer, a condenser, and provisions for the maintenance of a nitrogen atmosphere in the flask is charged with 300 ml. ofdeoxygenated distilled water, 9.5 g. acrylic acid, 180.5 g. isoocytyl acrylate, 0.4 g. ethylene diacrylate, 0.3 g. t-dodecyl mercaptan, and 13.6 g. of a surface active agent (available commercially from the Rohm and Haas Company of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. under the trade designation Triton X200). A stream of nitrogen is introduced and the contents of the flask are stirred and heated to reflux. There are then added 0.13 g. sodium bisulfite and 0.4 g. potassium persulfate. The polymerization reaction proceeds vigorously. After the reaction subsides. heating is continued for about 10 minutes, the temperature cooled to 90, the mixture filtered through cheesecloth and dried. The polymer obtained (about 190 g.) is allowed to swell overnight in hexane (about 500 ml.). Then, there is added 190 g. S1010 resin (a polyterpene tackifying resin available from Hercules Powder Co.), 190 g. Arochlor 6062" (a chlorinated polyphenyl tackifying resin available from Monsanto Chemicals Co.) and 2500 ml. of hexane. The mixture We claim:
1. In construction with fabrics, the steps of l. applying to a first sheet surface at a coating weight of from about 0.2 to 7 grams per square meter, based on adhesive solids, an aerosol spray of a normally tacky pressure-sensitive adhesive composition comprising adispersion of an adhesive in a propellant at autogenous pressure, the dispersion having a penetration value of from 0 to about 40 percent and the adhesive having an initial T-peel resistance of 4 to 50 grams per inch of width and a T-peel resistance of not more than 50 grams per inch of width after storage for 30 days at 25 C.,
2. positioning and temporarily adhering the first sheet surface to a second sheet surface, and
3. carrying out construction steps thereon. V
2. The method of claim 1 in which the aerosol coat ing weight. based on adhesive solids, is about 0.5 to 5 grams and the penetration value of the dispersion is from 0 to about 15 percent.
3. A method of constructing garments comprising the steps of l. applying to a garment pattern at a coating weight of fromabout 0.2 to 7 grams per square meter, based on'adhesive solids, an aerosol spray of a normally tacky pressure-sensitive adhesive composition comprising a dispersion of an adhesive in a propellant at autogenous pressure, the dispersion having a penetration value of'from 0 to about 40 percent and the adhesive having an initial T-peel resistance of 4 to 50 grams per inch of width and a T-peel resistance of not more than 50 grams per inch of width after storage for 30 days at 25 C.,
2. positioning and temporarily adhering the pattern to fabric,
3. carrying out garment construction steps, and
4. removing the pattern intact from the fabric.
4. The method of claim 3 in which the aerosol coating weight, based on adhesive solids, is about 0.5 to 5 grams and the penetration value of the dispersion is from 0 to about 15 percent.
5. A method of constructing garments comprising the steps of 1. applying to a garment lining fabric at a coating weight of from about 0.2 to 7 grams per square meter, based on adhesive solids, an aerosol spray of a normally tacky pressure-sensitive adhesive composition comprising a dispersion of an adhesive in a propellant at autogenous pressure, the dispersion having a penetration value of from 0 to about 40 percent and the adhesive having an initial T-peel resistance of 4 to 50 grams per-inch of width and a T-peel resistance of not more than 50 grams per inch of width after storage for 30 days at 25 C.,
2. positioning and temporarily adhering an outer fabric to the adhesive coated surface of the lining fabme,
3. applying to a garment pattern at a coating weight of from about 0.2 to 7 grams per square meter, based on adhesive solids, an aerosol spray as defined in step 1) hereof,
1 l 4. positioning and temporarily adhering the pattern to the second side of the outer fabric, and 5. carrying out garment construction steps thereon.
6. A method according to claim 1 wherein the adhesive is an elastomeric copolymer microsphere adhesive.
mers and maleic anhydride.
8. A method according to claim 7 wherein the adhesive is a copolymer of isooctylacrylate and from about 3 to about 12 percent by weight based on the combined monomer weights of ammonium acrylate.
9. A method according to claim 1 wherein the adhesive is a crosslinked elastomeric acrylate polymer of at least about 50 percent by weight of an acrylic acid ester, said acrylate polymer being crosslinked while in emulsion and having an insolubility factor of from about 0.5 to about 0.97.
10. A method according to claim 9 wherein the adhesive is a copolymer of isooctyl acrylate and acrylic acid.

Claims (18)

  1. 2. positioning and temporarily adhering an outer fabric to the adhesive coated surface of the lining fabric,
  2. 2. positioning and temporarily adhering the pattern to fabric,
  3. 2. The method of claim 1 in which the aerosol coating weight, based on adhesive solids, is about 0.5 to 5 grams and the penetration value of the dispersion is from 0 to about 15 percent.
  4. 2. positioning and temporarily adhering the first sheet surface to a second sheet surface, and
  5. 3. carrying out garment construction steps, and
  6. 3. carrying out construction steps thereon.
  7. 3. A method of constructing garments comprising the steps of
  8. 3. applying to a garment pattern at a coating weight of from about 0.2 to 7 grams per square meter, based on adhesive solids, an aerosol spray as defined in step 1) hereof,
  9. 4. positioning and temporarily adhering the pattern to the second side of the outer fabric, and
  10. 4. The method of claim 3 in which the aerosol coating weight, based on adhesive solids, is about 0.5 to 5 grams and the penetration value of the dispersion is from 0 to about 15 percent.
  11. 4. removing the pattern intact from the fabric.
  12. 5. A method of constructing garments comprising the steps of
  13. 5. carrying out garment construction steps thereon.
  14. 6. A method according to claim 1 wherein the adhesive is an elastomeric copolymer microsphere adhesive.
  15. 7. A method according to claim 6 wherein the microsphere adhesive is an infusible, non-polar organic liquid dispersible non-polar organic liquid insoluble, inherently tacky, elastomeric copolymer consisting essentially of about 90 to 99.5 percent by weight of at least one alkyl acrylate ester and about 10 to about 0.5 percent by weight of at least one monomer selected from substantially oil-insoluble, water-soluble, ionic monomers and maleic anhydride.
  16. 8. A method according to claim 7 wherein the adhesive is a copolymer of isooctylacrylate and from about 3 to about 12 percent by weight based on the combined monomer weights of ammonium acrylate.
  17. 9. A method according to claim 1 wherein the adhesive is a crosslinked elastomeric acrylate polymer of at least about 50 percent by weight of an acrylic acid ester, said acrylate polymer being crosslinked while in emulsion and having an insolubility factor of from about 0.5 to about 0.97.
  18. 10. A method according to claim 9 wherein the adhesive is a copolymer of isooctyl acrylate and acrylic acid.
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Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4363683A (en) * 1979-06-06 1982-12-14 Diesel Nelson P Process for affixing marker to fabric
US4432301A (en) * 1979-06-06 1984-02-21 Diesel Nelson P Apparatus for affixing marker to fabric
US4952267A (en) * 1987-10-23 1990-08-28 Grafotec Kotterer Gmbh Method and an apparatus for bonding together at least two running lengths of material
US5045044A (en) * 1987-10-23 1991-09-03 Grafotec Kotterer Gmbh Method and device for folding a paper web
US5334274A (en) * 1992-01-07 1994-08-02 B&G Plastics, Inc. Method for use in belt manufacture and belt and indicator assembly
US11896072B2 (en) 2019-02-25 2024-02-13 Rebecca Collinson-Smith Swimwear and method of customizing swimwear

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4363683A (en) * 1979-06-06 1982-12-14 Diesel Nelson P Process for affixing marker to fabric
US4432301A (en) * 1979-06-06 1984-02-21 Diesel Nelson P Apparatus for affixing marker to fabric
US4952267A (en) * 1987-10-23 1990-08-28 Grafotec Kotterer Gmbh Method and an apparatus for bonding together at least two running lengths of material
US5045044A (en) * 1987-10-23 1991-09-03 Grafotec Kotterer Gmbh Method and device for folding a paper web
US5334274A (en) * 1992-01-07 1994-08-02 B&G Plastics, Inc. Method for use in belt manufacture and belt and indicator assembly
US11896072B2 (en) 2019-02-25 2024-02-13 Rebecca Collinson-Smith Swimwear and method of customizing swimwear

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