US351802A - Machines - Google Patents

Description

Modem 4 Sheets-Sheet 1,

W. SGHOTT.

BUTTON HOLE ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES.

No. 351,802. Patented Nov. 2, 1886.

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(ModeL) 4 Sheets-Sheet 2. W. SCH-OTT. BUTTON HOLE ATTACHMENT. FOR SEWING MACHINES. No. 351,802.. Patented Nov. 2, 1886.

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(ModeL) 4 SheetsSheet 3.

W. SGHOTT.

BUTTON HOLE ATTACHMENT FOR $EWING MACHINES.

No. 351,802. Patented Nov. 2,1886.

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(ModeL) 14 Sheets-afiheet 4.

W. SOHOTT.

BUTTON HOLE ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES. No. 351,802. Patented Nov. 2,1886.

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.dtto ney UNITED STATES PATENT OF ICE.

WILLIAM SOHOTT, OF- NEW YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNOR TO THE SOHOTT BUT- TON HOLE ATTACHMENT COMPANY, OF NEW YORK.

BUTTON-HOLE ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING-MACHINES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 351,802, dated November 2, 1886.

Application tilt-d June 10, 188-1. Serlal No. 134.464. (Modem To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, WILLIAM Sonorr, a citizen of the United States of America, .and a resident ofthe city, county, and State of New York, have invented a new and useful Tmprovement in Button Hole Attachments to Sewing-Machines, of which the following is a specification.

This invention is designed as an improvement on the button-hole attachment to sewingmachines for which I filedan application for Letters Patent of the United StatesDecember The invention embraces anadjustable side bar for attaching the device to sewing-machines, an improved device for changing the speed or varying the motion ot'the form-plate,

, a graduated form-plate, an improved presserfoot, and other novel devices or mechanisms for simplifying the attachment and increasing its efficiency, all of which will be hereinafter fully set forth.

Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings, forming part of this specification,

2 in which similar letters of reference indicate corresponding-parts in all the figures.

Figure 1 is a side elevation of a portion of my improved button-hole attachment to a sewing-maehine, showing the manner of its attacho ment to a sewing-machine. Fig. 2 is aside elevation of my attachment with form-plate and cloth-clamp and certain other parts removed. '.-..Fig. 3 is an elevation of theopposite side-of the same with parts removed.,;, Fig. 4 3 5 is a plan of the attachment with form-plate and cloth-clamp in position. Fig. 5 is a sectional front elevation on line 00 at, Fig. 2. Fig. 6 is a side elevation of ,a portion of the device, with form-plate in cross-section, showing the posi- 4o tions of the adjustinglever and the toothed pawl when the former is engaged in a groove of the form-plate. Fig. 7 is a side elevat-ion of a portion of the device, with form-plate in longitudinal section, showing the positions of the pawl and the adj uSting-lever when the latter is resting on the ungrooved portion of the face of the formplate. Fig. 8 represents views of my improved prcsser-foot. Fig. 9 is a side elevationfof the, cloth-clamp with form-plate 5o inpositionth'ereon. Fig. 10 is across-section of the button-hole form-plate on line 3/ g], Fig.

4. Fig. 11 is a cross sect-ion of the cloth-clamp on line y 3 Fig. 4. Fig. 12 is a plan of the obverse face of the reciprocating lever and attachments. Fig. 13 is'a plan of the yoke at tachedto the reciprocating plate and designed for transmitting motion to the same. Fig. 14

is a sectional elevation on line 00 as, Fig. 12.

removed, showing the shoulder a on said presser-bar, and B represents a needle-bar, both of which are, relative to each other, in the positions they occupy when parts of a sewingmachine.

O, represents the carrier -plate of 'my improved attachment. A bar, 0', provided with slots b, is held 011 the face of the carrier-plate 0, along one edge thereof, by screws 12', that are engaged in said slots. The front end of this side bar, 0, is extended forward and upward, and fashioned into a boss, 5-, through which is a vertical aperture, b partially surrounded on its upper Illll with a semicircular collar, I), as shown in Figs. 1 and 4. By means of this side bar, 0, and other devices, hereinafter described, the button-hole attachment is secured to a sewing-machine. The

- upper face of the side-bar boss I) is designed to be of such a height as to be nearly on thesame horizontal plane as the point of the presser-foot bar when the latter is elevated, so that as the attachment is drawn forward in the act of applying it to a sewing-machine, the concave face of the collar 1)" will serve both as a guide for and a stop against the presser-foot bar, and when thelatter is depressed it will be prevented from dropping too far by the contact of its shoulder aupon the upper edge, of the side-bar collar 1)". By means of the screws b this side bar, 0, can be adjusted inward or outward to a sufficient degree to permit of the application of the button-hole attachment to sewing-machines of various sizes or numbers, so that an attachment of a given size can be made to fit several sizes of machines,whereby the necessity of constructing attachments of various sizes for machines of as many sizes is obviated, and a great economy secured in the manufacture of the devices. A post, 1), extends upward from about the center of the carrier-plate G, and a horizontal arm, 0 having one end held by screw 0 on the pressenfoot bar and the other by screw 0 on the post D, serves to hold the attachment more rigidly to a sewing-machine, as shown in Fig. 1; hence it will be seen that the attachment may be elevated and depressed by the presserfoot bar of the machine.

The reciprocating slide E, for carrying the cloth-clamp, is held so as to freely move in the grooves d, as shown in Fig. 5, in the under side of the earrienplate C, and the latter has several slots or openings made in it for the upward projection of certain of the parts that are fixed on the reciprocating slide, as herein after described.

Fixed upon the reciprocating slide E is a standard, R, (see Figs. 4 and 5,) and on a horizontal stud, (1, extending outward therefrom, is set, so as to move freely thereon, a peripherally-cogged wheel, E that, preferably, has much of its body cut away, (see Fig. 7,) as shown at 12*, to decrease its weight and make it run with less applied power.

An elbow-lever, F, (see Fig. 2,) held by a nut, f, (see Fig. 7,) on the opposite end of the stud d, carries, secured on its higher arm by a screw, f, (see Fig. 6,) a curved pawl, F, whose curve nearly corresponds with that of the periphery of the wheel E and an elbowspring, F (see Fig. 2.) secured to the lever F by a screw, f (see Fig. 7,) bears with its up per end against a stud, f that projects laterally from the said pawl, and thereby holds the terminal front toot-Inf, of the latter normally in contact with the teeth of the wheel E The rear end or tail of saidpawl is flattened, whereby a shoulder, f", is formed on it.

The feed or needle bar actuated lever G is pivoted on a standard, G, (see Fig. 1,) that rises from a side of the carrier-plate, and its long arm has a terminal open-ended slot, g, while its short arm, extending rearward, has in its end a closeended slot,

The reciprocating motion of the needle-bar B is transmitted to the feed-lever G by means of an arm or pin, G, having one end firmly secured on the said needle-bar by a set-screw,

while the other end engages in the terminal slotg of the said lever; and this reciprocating motion is transmitted to the elbow-lever F by means of a stud, 5 (see Figs. 2 and 4,) that projects laterally from the inner face of the forward end of the lever G into the slot or fork of the lever F, as shown.

Projecting upward from the reciprocating slide E, through a'suitable opening in the carrier-plate, is a standard, E", (see Figs. 4 and 5,) andjournaled in the front and depending ends of the standards E 13* is a shaft, h, (see Figs.

2 and 3,) having firmly fixed thereon a pinion,

H, (see Fig. 5,) and the worm H, the former of which gears with the wheel E" and the latter of which is designed to engage with the button-hole form-plate M, (see Fig. 4,) and transmit motion thereto.

On the front end of the reciprocating foot E is rigidly secured a forward-projecting plate I, (see Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4,) having an aperture, i, through which the needle is designed to reciprocate when the machine is in operation, and about which is a depending cylindrical lip, i, that is designed to hold the button-hole form'plate M in operative position and engaged with the worm H, and at the same time to serve as the pivot about which said plate M shall turn.

From the rear end of the carrier-plate 0 there rises a vertical standard or frame, K, (see Figs. 1 and 4,) having a groove, Z, for holding and guidingthe gate K, which is provided with a horizontal rod, Z, rigidly fixed in itand extending through and beyond each face thereof. The outward end of this rod Z is designed to be engaged in the closed slotted end of the feed-lever G, that is pivoted on the stand; ard G, and has its forward open slotted end engaged over the arm G secured to the necdle-bar, as shown.

Adjustably secured by a screw, h, on the ciprocating slide E, beneath a corresponding and larger aperture, it", (see Figs. 4 and 13,) in the carrier-plate G, is a yoke, h, designed for engagement with the mechanism adapted for moving the said slide, the shank of said yoke being extended rearward through a suitable depression in the carrier plate C.

The reciprocating lever L, pivoted at-one end 011 the carrier-plate G, is a flattened plate having a central longitudinal slot, 70, and on one end a boss, k, from the face of which protrude two stops or pins, it", (see Fig. 12,) and on which boss is pivoted the reciprocating latch L, (see Fig. 15,) provided with opposite lateral arms, k, that are designed, when the device is in operation, to alternately take against the stops If, that thereby arrest the motion of the said latch, and with inclined faces It h", for a purpose hereinafter explained.

A spring, 7c, secured in the under face of the lever L, has its free end bearing up against the inferior point of the said latch L, for the purpose of holding the latter temporarily at whichever angle it may be moved by the downward motion of the rod or pin Z when the latter is forced down alternately upon the inclined faces or planes of the head of the said latch L.

A screw-stud, m, (see Figs. 12 and 14,) hav; ing its head engaged, so as to be movable in the slot of the yoke h, and its shoulder in the slot of the lever L, with its threaded end projecting up through said lever and provided with a thumb-nut, m, serves as the adjustable connection between the lever L and the reciprocating slide E. -(See Fig. 4.) Byloosening this nut m the operator is enabled to move the stud or along the slots of the yoke h" and lever L, and thereby adj nstshorten or lengthen- ICC IIO

the throw or reciprocation of the slide E, and consequently shorten or lengthen the bight of the stitches.

The button-hole form-plate M has an openended central slot, 1), (see Fig. 4,) whose in ner end is preferably eyelet-shaped, and its beveled upper outer edges are toothed throughout their length, as shown at p, to correspond with the threads of the worm H. 7

The cloth-clamp O is like that described in my former application above alluded to, and consists of two thin. plates of metal hinged together at one end, (see Fig. 9,) the lower plate, it, having a slot, a, (see Fig. 11,) and clothholding pins a projecting upward from about the edges thereof, while the upper plate, a has a corresponding slot, or, about which are sockets n designed to receive the ends of the pins of when the clamp is closed. On either side of the slot n, on the upper face of the )late if, are fixed metal stri s n unddf'ent on 1 P 7 their outer edges, as shown in Fig. 11, and rearward of the slot at is hinged in lugs a (see Figs. 4 and 9) a lever, a one end of which, provided with an upward-projecting stud, a", (see Fig. 9,) extends through a suitable slot, a, beneath the plate or, while the other end extends above it and rearward for the convenient manipulation of the operator.

' On its inferior side the form-plate M has strips 0, (see Fig. 10,) applied to engage with the strips n of the cloth-clamp, and said plate is provided with a hole, 0', (see Fig. 9,) corresponding with the stud a. The form-plate M is held in operative position on the cloth clamp by sliding it over the strips n until the hole 0 comes opposite the stud n Then the spring 12, which is fastened on the clothclamp and bears up against the arm ofthe lever n forces the said stud a into the hole 0. In the ordinary mechanical stitching of a button-hole, after the hole has been cut in the fabric or material it has been found difficult, if not impossible, to bring or form the loops of the stitches evenly along the edges of the button-holes,because of the-frequent lifting or pulling up of the edges by the upward movement of the needle; hence the importance of having with a button-hole-attachment machine a device for holding down the edges of thematerial about the button-hole while the latter is being stitched. The device I apply for this purpose is the improved presserfoot P, (see Fig. 8,) which consists of a short cylinder, open at its top and having an outwardly-convex bottom, in which is a slot, q. A handle or strap, q, (see Fig. 3,) extending upward. completes this'presser-foot, and by means of the handle q and a pin, f, the said device is secured to a lever, q, (see Fig. 2,) which is pivoted in a post, g that is fixed on the extreme end of the plate I; and a spring (1, also fixed on said plate, bears upward against the outer end of said lever, and thus normally keeps the presser-foot P down in the aperture 1, as 'shown in Figs, 2, 3, and 4, to reston the materialto be operated on, and

'hold itevenly and smooth beneath the needle.

In mechanically stitching a button-hole it is indispensable that the form-plate should be moved at different rates of speed when stitches are being made along the edges and along the ends of the button-holes. It is also indispensable to the perfect regularity of the stitches that there be some device for automatically feeding or moving mechanism. To this end the button-hole formplate is longitudinally grooved on its upper face, as shown at 1', Figs. 6 and 10, on both sides of its opening, and journaled in a horizontal bearing, 1", which is, fixed on or is an integral part of the reciproeating foot E, is the adj listing-lever Q,'one end of which, drawn toa point and extending forward, is curved downward over the worm H, (see Fig. 2,) so as to rest on the face'of the form-plate in use, where it is held by a spring, 0, (see Fig. 7,) that is fixed in said lever Q, and bears down on the reciprocating foot E. The other and slotted end of said lever Q is curved upward a little rearward of and parallel with the face of the wheel E". Held by a thumb-screw, s, in the curved slot ,9 of this adjusting-lever Q, is a stud, 8 which projects about half-way over tnepawl F, so that it may be brought in contact therewith. The pawl F is normally held with its tooth in gear with the wheelE by the spring F, as shown in Figs. 2, 6, and 7, and consequently by the upward movement of the long arm of the feed-1evef the pawl is moved upward and rearward, thereby causing the wheel E, pin:

adjusting the speed of the form-plate or its to transmit the motion to the form-plate,whieh .is thereby moved aproper distance for the next stitch that will be made on the downward reciprocation of the needle-bar.

When the eyelet or rounded end of a button-hole is to be stitched, it is requisite that the form-plate should, be moved rapidly, in order that the stitches should be formed at suitable distances apart and not overlap each other; hence the depending point of the lever Q, being then in contact with the plane surface of the form-plate, about the rounded end of the same,the rear end of said lever Qis kept down in opposition to thetension of the spring 1-, as shown in Fig. 7; but when the sides of a-button-hole are to be stitched, the formplate must be moved more slowly or through shorter distances at each upward movement of the needle-bar, in order that the stitches may not be too far apart, and at suehtimes the depending point of the lever Q rests in the grooved portions of the face of the form-plate, whereby the rear upreaching end of the said spring 1", as shown in Figs. 3 and 6, and the stud 8', being suitably adjusted in the slot s of the lever Q and held by screw .9, will make contact with the tail of the pawl F during a portion of the stroke or movement of the feedlever and force said tail down, with the effect of disengaging the tooth of said pawl from the rga wheel F during that portion of the stroke, which latter then ceases for the time to move or transmit motion.

If the stud a be adjusted and held in the upper end of the lever-slot s, it will, during the upward movement of the feed-lever,sooner make contact with the shoulder f ot' the pawl F, and thereby sooner disengage the pawltooth from the wheel E and consequcntlycause the movement of the form-plate to be arrested sooner in each. upward reciprocation of the needle-bar, so that at each reciprocation the form-plate will be moved but little, and the stitches consequently will be close together.

Should it be desired to make the stitches farther apart,to increase the distance between them, the stud will be adjusted in or toward the lower end of the slot 3', so that said stud shall not make contact with the pawl-shoulder until later in the stroke of the needlebar, or shall not make contact at all; hence it will be seen that the stud s can be adj usted,by means of the screw s, so as to lengthen or-shorten its period of contact with the pawl F, whereby the distance through which the form-plate is fed or moved at each reciprocation. of the needle-bar is increased or diminished.

The grooves r in the form-plate are so formed or graduated, and the ungroovcd portions of the face of the form-plate are so relatively proport-io11ed,that the stitches made about the button-hole are as even and regular as can be made by hand.

A special device for the straight barring of the end of a button-hole, and used only in combination with the open-ended form-plate, is seen at Figs. 2, S, 4, and 18, and is like that described in my former application, above alluded to. This device consists ofa flat plate, 2, (see Fig. 13,) having its inner end slotted, as shown at t, and provided with vertical stops t,- and pivoted eccentrically 011 the plate t, between the stops by a screw or pivot, t, is a lever, i, (see Fig. 4,) provided with a circular boss, 1", (see Fig. 2,) projecting downward from its interior face. This barring device T is adjustably and firmly held by a screw, h", passing through the slot 1/ on the shank of the yoke h, so that it may be adjusted to correspond with the length of the reciprocation of the slide E, the free end of the said lever t being extended rearward for the convenience of the operator.

To the opposite end of the lever t is firmly and adj ustably secured, by screw i, an arm, U, provided with a slotted lug, o, (see Fig. 16,) that extends forward and has its free end curved upward over the tail of the pawl F. A screw or stud, 0, passing down through the slot of the lug r into the reciprocating slide, (see Fig. 4,) serves to steady and guide said arm in its movements.

\Vhen the open-ended form-plate, as shown, is used, it is desirable, after the sides and rounded end have been stitched, to stitch a straight bar across the open end of the buttonhole; hence, when this point is reached in length in a garment.

the operation, the operator moves the outer end of the lever t laterally to the right, as shown by the arrow in Fig. 4, thus bringing the projecting edge of the boss i against the forward step, t", that serves as a fulcrum and lock therefor, so that the curved extremity of the arm U shall make and hold contact with the tail of the pawl F and force it down, thus ungearing the pawl-tooth from the teeth of the wheel E so that said wheel ceases for the time to move and to transmit motion to the worm and form plate. At the same time the reciprocatingslidc E and its connections continue to be reciprocated through the mechanism of the feed-lever G and its connections, so that the form-plate and cloth-clamp, together with the material being operated on, are reciprocated back and forth under the threaded needle, whereby the cross-bar is made.

Vhen an open-ended button-hole form-plate is used with a button-hole machine or a button-hole attachment to a sewing-machine, it

has been found diflicult to make both sides of the button-hole precisely of the same length, or to makea series of buttonholes all of equal To overcome this difficulty, I impress certain lines and figures on both sides of the face of the form-plate, and graduate the sides, as shown at w, Fig. 4, so that the operator can always accurately measure the length of the button-holes.

lVhen the device is in operation, the upward motion of the needlc-bar depresses the rear end of the feed lever, thereby forcing down the gateK and rod Z, so that the inner end of the latter, engaging against one or the other of the inclined planes h h of the latch L, forces the said latch backward or forward, as the case may be, and with it and through the medium of the lever L the reciprocating footEandits attachments. Forinstance,when the rod Z is forced down on the inclined plane If, the head of the latch L is thereby inclined rearward and the reciprocating slide E pushed forward. Then on the next downward motion of the needlebar the gate and rod K J are raised, the latter clear of the latch L, and on the next upward movement of the ncedle-bar the rod Z is forced down on the plane h of the latch L, with the effect of reciprocating the slide E rearward, and thus the slide E and its attachments are reciprocated by and in correspondence with the reciprocation of the needle-bar.

The needle y being fixed in place and threaded, and the device being in position, the sewing-machine is set in operation in the usual manner, and through the mechanism hereinbcfore described the form-plate and clothclamp, carrying the material to be operated upon, are together moved, revolved, and reciprocatcd beneath the needle as the latter reciprocates up and down in making the stitches.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent 1. In a button-hole attachment to asewingmachine, and as a means for attaching a device to a sewing-machine, the side bar, 0, having one end extended forward and'upward and provided with a collar to form a guide and stop for the presser-bar and provided with slots, as shown, combined with the carrierplate 0, and set-screws passed through the said slots into the carrier-plate, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

2. -In a button-hole attachment to a sewingmachine, the combination, with the form-plate and cloth-clamp, a worm adapted to engage.

in'the buttonnhole form-plate to give motion thereto, and a toothed wheel and pinion geared together for transmitting motion unto said worm, and afeed-lever adapted to be connected with the needle-bar and to receive motion therefrom, of an elbow-lever and spring-actuated toothed pawl pivoted-thereto, the former arranged to receive motion from the feed-1ever and thelatter arranged to receive motion from the elbow-lever and to transmit motion to the toothed wheel, all arranged and operating as set forth.

3. In a button-hole attachment to a sewingmachine, as a means for transmitting motion from the feed or needle bar operated lever to the mechanism operating the form-plate, the combination, with the cogged wheel E of the slotted elbow-lever F on the shaft of said wheel, curved toothed pawl F, carried by said lever and provided with stud f and shoulder f and elbow-spring F", all arranged and operating substantially as herein shown and described.

4. In a button-hole attachment to a sewingmachine of the character herein described, and in combination with the face-grooved formplate and its feeding mechanism, as a means for interrupting the movement of the mechanism transmitting motion to the form-plates, the adj usting-lever Q,provided with the spring 1", constructed and arranged, substantially as herein shown and described, with its pointed end curved downward to rest on the formplate, and with its slotted end curved upward and carrying an adjustable stud, 8 as set forth.

5. In a button-hole attachment to a sewingmachine, constructed substantially as herein shown and described, as a means for holding down the material about a button-hole while the latter is being worked, the combination, with the reciprocating foot E, its sustainingplate, and the form-plate and cloth-clamp, of a spring-actuated (cylindrical presser-foot, as P, having a slot, q, in its convex bottom, and attached by handle g, pin q, lever q, and post (1 to the front end of the attachment, as set forth.

6. In a bntton-ho1e attachment to a sewingmachine, constructed substantially as herein shown and described, as a means for arresting the feed of the form-plate, the combination, withthe feeding mechanism thereof and with the barring device T, of the arm U, provided with slotted lug 1;, attached to said device, and having its free end curved upward in position to make contact with a portion of the feeding mechanism and interrupt its action at the will of the operator, as set forth.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as my invention I have signed my name, in presence of two witnesses, this 14th day of May, 1884.

WILLIAM SOHOTT.

Witnesses:

O. W. ZERWIOK, J AOOB J. STORER.

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