US3478451A

US3478451A - Combined sewing and ironing mechanism

Info

Publication number: US3478451A
Application number: US643458A
Authority: US
Inventors: Victor J Sigoda
Original assignee: Man Sew Corp
Current assignee: Man Sew Corp
Priority date: 1967-06-05
Filing date: 1967-06-05
Publication date: 1969-11-18
Anticipated expiration: 1986-11-18
Also published as: FR1570782A; DE1760556A1; GB1193406A

Description

Nov. 18, 1969 v. J. SIGODA COMBINED SEWING AND IRONING MECHANISM 15 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed June 5. 1967 INVENTOR. M0 r01 6/6004 Arr-07M) Nov. 18, 1969 V. J. SIGODA COMBINED Filed June 5, 1967 SEWING AND IRONING MECHANISM 15 Sheets-Sheet 2 Bio 180 180' 306 287 1:115. Q; 5. 3 5 28230 i I INVENTOR.

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V/croe d S/GFODA 5 6 A frog/var United States Patent US. C]. 38-10 48 Claims ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE Ironing mechanism for use independently or with a sewing machine in which the ironing members are retractable pods which engage a moving, thin, heat transfer belt, and a floating buck. The buck has a moving internal belt in contact with the fabric and which is driven in unison with the heat transfer belt by pressure exerting,

driven rollers. Transversely shiftable and swivellable inserts mounted in the buck are adapted to compensate for fabric irregularities. The buck also has an internal lip which limits transverse shifting of the inserts in one direction. The mechanism also includes a prepuller having magnetically coupled feed discs, and a post puller which stretches the freshly ironed fabric as a cooling air blast sets the fabric. Steam applied to the fabric is supplied from a circulating system having condensation reducing features, and a steam heated radiator preheats the transfer belt.

This application is a continuation-in-part of parent application Ser. No. 481,522 filed Aug. 23, 1965, now patent No. 3,372,497 issued Mar. 12, 1968. That application concerns improvements in seam ironing mechanisms capable of use independently of, but preferably with, sewing machines to produce pressed open sewn seams such as are found in mens and womens trousers and slacks, skirts, and sleeve jackets. The improvements herein reside both in the cooperation of the ironing mechanism with the sewing machine and in the ironing mechanism.

The prior art is typically shown in United States Patents 1,683,412 and 1,702,271. A more recent apparatus is shown in the patent to Korioth, No. 3,246,616 of Apr. 19, 1966. The earlier patents employ long bucks as part of the ironing mechanism which is the arrangement utilized in this and in the parent case, but the Korioth mechanism uses heated opposed rollers. The primary distinguishing feature of applicants improvements is the use of a floating long buck which is neither anchored at the rear as in the mentioned patents, or at the front as shown in other art. This arrangement makes possible continuous sewing and ironing of long tubular garment sections such as trousers legs and jacket sleeves without having to stop to swing the buck aside to remove each garment section after ironing is completed. In the arrangement disclosed herein, the use of the long floating buck makes is possible to pull the sewn together fabric plies transversely during ironing so that the joined plies emerge in true butt relationship without overlap, and without the pressure marks which often accompany roller pressing of superposed plies.

Features and other advantages of the apparatus disclosed herein will become apparent from the following detailed description and the drawings, in which:

FIG. 1 is a side elevational view of the sewing machine and the ironing mechanism in tandem arrangement as they appear when operating in combination; showing a version of the ironing mechanism which is mounted so 3,478,451 Patented Nov. 18, 1969 that it inclines upwardly away from the sewing machine;

FIG. 2 is a front elevational view corresponding to FIG. 1 showing the preheating arrangement for the heat transfer belt; and belts which convey the unpressed portion of the garment section;

' FIG. 3 is a perspective side view of the ironing mechanism showing additional belts which assist in conveying the garment section during ironing, and the post pulling members;

FIG. 4 is a perspective view of the inlet portion of the ironing mechanism without the main horizontal conveying belts, showing the upper and lower front feed pulleys and the magnetically retained rollers driven thereby; and also showing the free ply edges separator and its support members; the heat transfer belt and its preheating radiator; the steam supply solenoid valve and the adjustable valve for regulating the amount of steam supplied to the steam nozzle;

FIG. 5 is a plan view showing the inlet portion of the ironing mechanism; the relative positioning of the steam nozzle with respect to the separator, metal heat transfer belt, and the buck (the showing of the buck being merely representational, and the spacing between the adjacent edges of the separator and buck being exaggerated); and also showing structural details of the arrangement for preheating the metal belt;

FIG. 6 is a sectional view taken on line 66 of FIG. 4 showing the structure of the adjusting means by which downward pressure applied at the inlet portion of the ironing mechanism by the upper conveying belt can be counteracted to reduce the effectiveness of feeding by the belt in that area;

FIG. 7 is a perspective view of the inlet portion of the ironing mechanism with the upper and lower front feed pulleys and their companion magnetically retained rollers removed; showing the input portions of the buck and separator from another angle and slightly displaced vertically from their normal in line arrangement for visibility; and also showing the structure of the support and tensioning members for the separator;

FIG. 8 is a detail view in perspective of the separator as it appears when removed from the ironing mechanism;

FIG. 9 is a view partly in section showing the structure of the upper front drive pulley and its companion magnetically retained roller; and also showing the manner in which they cooperate to draw the sewn garment section from the sewing machine to the inlet portions of the buck and separator as the garment section travels to the ironing members;

FIG. 10 is a sectional view of fragments of the upper front feed pulley and its companion magnetically retained roller showing in exaggerated scale the taper on a portion of the perimeter of the roller;

FIG. 11 is a view in perspective of the free ply edges separator and its support members showing the compensating structure which permits longitudinal as well as lateral rocking movements of the separtor for the purpose of accommodating differences in bulk in the seam about to be ironed;

FIG. 12 is a representational view of the steam supply system indicating the circulating arrangement for the steam and the manner in which water condensed from the steam drains from the system; and also showing the relationship of the rear wall of the separator and the outlet of the steam supply nozzle as they cooperate to deflect from the fabric any drops of water condensing from the steam as it is applied to the fabric just before the beginning of the ironing operation;

FIG. 13 is a view of an intermediate portion of the ironing mechanism showing the rear portion of the buck :and two of the lower drive rollers which draw the fabric of the garment section wrapped about the buck, along the buck for ironing, and which rollers also rotate the smaller belt operating rollers in the two buck inserts shown to drive the buck internal belt; and also showing the upper and lower horizontal drive belt tensioning and lint scraping and lateral confining mechanisms, and the stop rollers in the buck and how they cooperate with the drive pulleys to limit rearward movement of the buck;

FIG. 14 is a perspective view showing the structure of some of the mechanisms illustrated in FIG. 13 in greater detail;

FIG. 15 is a plan view of the outlet end of the ironing mechanism showing the post pulling horizontal and vertical belts which pull the freshly ironed fabric taut just after it leaves the ironing members; and indicating one location for the air nozzle from which a chilling blast is applied to set the taut fabric to reduce the possibility o subsequent wrinkling;

FIG. 16 is an elevational view of the outlet end of the ironing mechanism showing the structure of the drive mechanism for the vertical post puller; the stop member which limits inward swing of the support arrangement for the vertical pulling belt; and also showing the yieldable arrangement which urges the vertical pulling belt toward the rear roller of the buck;

FIG. 17 is a sectional view taken on line 1717 of FIG. 4 representative of the early stages of the separation of the sewn garment section as it passes over the inlet portion of the buck and of the initial separation of the free ply edges by the inlet portion of the separator as the garment plies are being drawn along such inlet portions by coaction of the upper and lower feed belts wrapped around the front set of pulleys, and by their companion magnetically retained upper and lower rollers respectively;

FIG. 18 is a sectional view taken on line 1818 of FIG. 7 showing a later stage of separation of the garment plies and of the free ply edges;

FIG. 19 is a sectional view taken on line 1919 of FIG. 7 at a still later stage;

FIG. 20 is a sectional view showing the free ply edges fully separated and folded back in opposed relationship, the buck with the fabric of the garment section wrapped about it, and the upper and lower large drive rollers bearing against the outer surface of the fabric and in contact through the fabric with the large roller of one of the buck inserts for driving the internal buck belt; and also show ing one of the series of small pressure rollers of the buck inserts which maintain the outer run of the internal belt in ironing contact with the fabric of the garment section, and through the fabric, urged toward the metal heat transfer belt and the heat pod; and also showing the lip or projection which extends longitudinally in the buck, in its normal spaced relationship with a portion of an insert which can shift the buck frame laterally by coming into contact therewith;

FIG. 21 is a detail view of a fragment of one type of ironed seam with the free edges folded in opposed relation as it appears after emerging from the apparatus,

FIG. 21a is a similar view of another type of scam;

FIG. 22 is a perspective view of the buck as it appears removed from the ironing mechanism, a repetitive portion having been omitted between the broken lines; showing the manner in which the internal belt passes around the pressure rollers and is engaged by the large drive roller of each insert to be driven thereby;

FIG. 23 is a plan view of the outlet portion of the buck without the internal belt; showing the rearmost insert installed; and also showing the slack takeup arrangement for the internal belt, the two concavely surfaced stop rollers, and the rear roller which is engaged by the vertical pulling belt of the post puller;

FIG. 24 is an enlarged plan view showing one of the buck inserts with the six idler pressure rollers supported thereon and the laterally extending projections which form the recesses in which the inserts are retained and which limit longitudinal movement of the insert without interfering with its rotational and transverse movements;

FIG. 25 is a detail view of another portion of the buck (in inverted relationship), showing the concavely surfaced stop rollers and indicating how they cooperate with the drive pulleys to restrain rearward movement;

FIG. 26 is a perspective view showing one of the four inserts as it appears removed from the buck;

FIG. 27 is a sectional view taken on line 27-27 of FIG. 13 showing one of the stop rollers and its cooperating drive pulley and how their respective concave and convex peripheries coact through the conveying belt and fabric when restraining rearward movement of the buck;

FIG. 28 is a sectional view of the buck structure showing the lip engaged with the insert to shift the buck frame in the direction of the arrow; and also showing the cross section of the buck belt and its longitudinally extending side projections and how they encompass the roller to prevent lateral displacement of the belt as it moves;

FIG. 29 is an exploded view of the front portion of the buck showing details of construction and assembly;

FIG. 30 is a detail view of the bridging member which guides the sewn garment section emerging from the sewing machine onto the inlet portions of the buck and separator;

FIG. 31 is a sectional view taken on line 31-31 of FIG. 30 indicating the overlapping sandwich arrangement of the outlet portions of the bridging member and the inlet portions of the buck and separator;

FIG. 32 is an elevational view showing the variable speed transmission means which can be selectively actuated by the operator to suspend or reduce operating speed of the ironing mechanism without affecting the operating speed of the sewing machine;

FIG. 33 is a view in plan of the mechanism shown in FIG. 32;

FIG. 34 is a representational view of the common drive means for the sewing machine and ironing mechanism;

FIG. 35 is a sectional view taken on line 35-35 of FIG. 3 showing structural details of the support for the vertical pulling belt of the post puller;

FIG, 36 is a sectional view taken on line 3636 of FIG. 15 showing details of the driving arrangement for the lower horizontal belts of the post puller; and

FIG. 37 is a schematic representation of a modification of the arrangement shown in FIG. 21 of the parent case now Patent No. 3,372,497 for engaging one or more of the heat pods in proportion to the velocity of the garment section through the ironing mechanism.

In the following description, members and portions of the ironing mechanism and the sewing machine of this application which are similar to members and portions of the apparatus of the parent case have been related thereto wherever applicable, by use of the same or similar numbering.

General organization and operation Referring to the drawings, FIG. 1 shows an ironing mechanism of the same general construction as that disclosed in the parent case combined with a typical industrial sewing machine 1 mounted in a conventional sewing table 2 which is provided with the usual sewing machine drive source 149a (FIG. 34) consisting of a combined motor and clutch assembly known in the trade as a transmitter. There is an operating connection including variable speed transmission 162 between the sewing machine and the ironing mechanism by means of which the ironing mechanism normally operates whenever the sewing machine is operated.

The sewing machine shown is representative of any conventional single seam lock or two thread chain stitcher used for joining two fabric plies together as for example in stitching the leg portion of mens trousers. The combination of sewing machine and ironing mechanism is not restricted to that type of sewing machine but could also be used with other sewing machines such as for example the type shown in US. Patents 3,192,887 and 3,246,620, which simultaneously produce three lines of stitching, one being the same as that produced by the single seamer mentioned and the other two being separate and independent overcastings of each of the free ply edges. The sewing machine could also be associated with an edge pinker to finish the free ply edges with pinking.

The sewn garment section emerging from the sewing machine of whatever type, passes over the bridging arrangement indicated in FIG. 2 and shown in detail in FIGS. 30 and 31, to leadon member 186 of the buck 185 and leadon portion 236 of the separator on the way, as indicated in FIG. 9, to being ironed between moving metal belt 175 and moving buck belt 198 as shown in FIG. 20. It will be noted that the pressure applied during ironing is concentrated in the relatively narrow cross dimension of the outer surface of belt 198 rather than the cross dimension of the buck itself.

When the fabric of the garment section reaches the leadon member and portion, it is initially engaged by sets of upper and lower opposed feed members as indicated in FIG. 9 until the fabric is brought into full engagement with the upper and lower horizontally operating conveying belts shown in FIGS. 1, 2 and 3, and elsewheres. The portions of the fabric of the garment section which become wrapped about the buck are also drawn in one vertical plane between metal belt 175 and the buck belt 198 as indicated in FIG. ZO and in another substantially vertical plane by engagement of two opposed upper and lower series of large drive rollers 141 to 148, indicated in FIG. 3 and elseweres.

As the fabric section passes over the leadon member and portion, the contoured surface of separator 235 causes the free ply edges to fold back upon the fabric as shown in FIGS. 17 to 20, and just prior to the point at which the fabric meets metal belt 175, as indicated in FIG. 5, a jet of steam is directed at the fabric. As the fabric of the garment section wrapped about the buck is drawn by the various conveying belts with the surfaces to be ironed clamped between

belts

175 and 198, heat is applied to the metal belt by

heat pods

205 and 220. As explained in the parent case, the heat pods are brought into engagement with the metal belt only when certain predetermined operating speeds of the conveying members are reached. In this case, the operating speed of the sewing machine is transmitted through variable speed transmission 162.

However, by means of the mechanism shown in FIGS. 32 and 33, it is possible to continue operation of the sewing machine while either reducing the speed of or suspending operation of the conveying members of the ironing mechanism. This permits production of slack in the fabric between the ironing members and the sewing machine which allows certain types of curved portions of the garment section to be sewn despite the clamping effect of the conveying members of the ironing mechanism.

Since engagement of the heat pods with the moving metal belt is dependent upon the operating speed of the conveying members, whenever the operator actuates the mechanism to either reduce speed or suspend operation of the conveying members, the heat pods are withdrawn. This prevents burning or scorching of the fabric at such times.

The fabric of the garment section leaving the conveying members which draw it between the ironing members is engaged by other sets of vertical and horizontal post pulling members which operate at a somewhat faster rate than the first sets of conveying members. The difference in speed causes tightening of the freshly ironed fabric. Just before the fabric emerges from the first sets of conveying members, a blast of cold air is directed at the still warm, taut fabric to set it.

In the version of the ironing mechanism shown in FIG. 1, it is inclined upwardly away from the sewing machine. The outlet of the sewing machine being usually about thirty inches above floor level, this places the outlet of the ironing mechanism approximately forty inches above floor level. This arrangement provides a number of significant advantages among which is the fact that with the outlet raised in this manner, the entire combination of sewing machine and ironing mechanism occupies less floor space. It also permits a commercially available stacker to be positioned at the outlet of the ironing mechanism, using less floor space than with the horizontal arrangement of the ironing mechanism shown in the parent case.

Another advantage is that instead of a stacker, a simple slide can be installed at the outlet of the ironing mechanism, and because of its height, the garment can be returned for subsequent operations, at the level of the sewing machine, either to the same operator, or in the straight line production system to another operator.

A less obvious but more significant advantage is utilization of gravity to offset some of the drag produced by the conveyor belts and drive rollers which engage the fabric of the garment section wrapped about the buck. The drag tends to draw the floating buck with the moving fabric wrapped around it. As explained in the parent case, such rearward movement is restrained by engagement of belt drive pulleys mounted on the main frame of the apparatus with stop rollers in the buck. The drag is sufficient however to cause the stop rollers in the buck to bear against the fabric of the garment section passing between the stop members with enough pressure to pinch the fabric which produces marking of some materials. Inclination of the entire ironing apparatus applies gravity to the buck so that the effect of the drag is partially offset and reduced, and this tends to eliminate pinching and consequent marking. Gravity also causes the buck to slide downwardly toward-the sewing machine Whenever movement of the conveying belts is suspended or when the fabric passes off the buck.

To facilitate use of the stacker, a photoelectrically operated sensor may be used to determine where one garment section ends and another begins and this determination may be utilized to actuate a cutting shear to part the entwined threads between garment sections, and to also operate the stacker.

The bridging arrangement As seen in FIGS. 2 and 30 bridging member 238 is mounted on the bed of the sewing machine surrounding the needle, the needle hole being indicated at N. As shown in FIG. 31, this member consists principally of two superposed, thin layers 238a and 238]) of flexible metal such as nickel silver or stainless steel. The layers are joined together by soldering, brazing or welding except in the portions shown in the sectional view of FIG. 31. Pads 240 are provided on the underside of member 238 as indicated in FIG. 30 so that when mounted on the machine bed as shown in FIG. 2, clearance is provided for passage of one or more fabric plies under layer 238b.

The layers are cut out as shown in FIG. 30 to leave a wire-like, longitudinally extending bridge 241 which assists in separating the plies after they are sewn together. This bridge is positioned adjacent the needle path when member 238 is installed as indicated in FIG. 30, with the bridge centered in a mating groove in the sole of the presser foot (not shown). The outlet ends of layers 238a and 238b are separated to permit passage between them of the stitching formed in the plies by the sewing instrumentalities.

Under layer 238b is somewhat longer than the upper layer and somewhat thicker since it is desirable to have the upper layer more flexible than the lower layer so that when the sewing'machine is turned bodily backwards as for threading or servicing, layer 238a may flex without being damaged. Because layer 238a is somewhat shorter, leadon member 186 of the buck and portion 236 of the separator may be easily interleaved between the free ends of the layers.

The layers overlap member 186 and portion 236 in the direction of passage of the garment section from the sewing machine to the ironing mechanism. Passage of the sewn together plies over and under the layers tends to compress them into a tight sandwich with member 186 and portion 236 interleaved, to form a continuous bridge extending from the outlet of the sewing machine to the inlet of the ironing mechanism.

This interleaved arrangement permits the buck to shift longitudinally in either direction without breaking the bridge. Layers 238a and 238b are long enough so that when the drag draws the buck rearwardly, the bridge is not disrupted. Shifting in the opposite direction when bumps pass between the stop members of the buck and main frame, or when the conveying members cease operation, merely causes buck leadon member 186 to move further downwardly between the layers.

The arrangement makes it convenient to remove the sewing head from the combination apparatus for replacement by another without requiring removal of, or damaging the bridging member.

Separation of the fabric plies As the stitched plies pass over the bridging member they automatically pass onto the leadon member and portion (see FIG. 9) with the free ply edges disposed about portion 236 and the part of the garment section which will subsequently be wrapped about the body of the buck disposed about member 186. Member 186 and portion 236 are of relatively thin cross section so that very little separation of the plies takes place initially. In order to retain control of the garment section during the interval between leaving the sewing machine and entry between the ironing members, it is desirable to maintain the plies in this relatively unopened state until they approach the position at which metal belt 175 and internal belt 198 can clamp the fabric between them.

Innner edges 186a and 23611 of the leadon member and portion are positioned closely together so that each edge can butt against its side of the line of stitching within the sewn plies (see FIGS. 9 and 17). This positioning, together with clamping pressure applied to the sewn portion as well as to the free ply edges by

tires

331 and 332 on the peripheries of magnetically driven

rollers

333 and 334 effectively restrains the sewn together plies from wandering as they travel toward the body of the buck and keeps the stitchline between the free ply edges aligned with the centerline of belt 198.

As the sewn together plies move further rearwardly, the free ply edges pass along the contoured inner surface 237a of the separator and spread apart as shown in FIG. 18 in which it will be noted that

edges

186a and 236a are maintained in the desired close proximity and alignment which prevent wandering during ironing. As indicated in FIG.

19, the free ply edges will be almost fully turned back by contoured surface 23711 as the rearwardly travelling fabric first reaches belt 198 and just slightly before it meets metal belt 175. FIG. 20 shows the fully opened free ply edges clamped between the belts.

The separator Referring to FIG. 8, separator 235 has a thin forwardly extending leadon portion 236 and a vertically tapering, rearwardly expanding section 237. The inner edge of portion 236 is designated 236a and the portion by which the separator is supported is designated 236b. Portion 236 adjoins a tapering, contoured surface 237a on the inner wall of section 237. This contoured section is shaped to progressively fold back the free ply edges of the fabric of the garment section as it travels rearwardly along portion 236, and is generally similar to that indicated in FIGS. 11, 12 and 16 of the parent case, except that rear section 237 has a much larger vertical dimension than the corresponding section of the separator of the parent case.

Section 237 is relatively wide so that its outer surface 237b may act as a deflector to direct droplets of moisture condensing from the steam away from the fabric of the garment section as indicated in FIG, 12. Although as shown this surface is flat, in practice, it has a slight downwardly inclined contour which assists in deflecting the droplets.

In FIG. 5, it will be seen that the outlet of steam nozzle 255 is directed toward the area of the ironing mechanism at which section 237 converges with metal belt and buck 185. Steam emerging from the nozzle is first directed at section 237 to deflect the moisture and then through the narrow vertical separation between the end of the separator and belt 175. This will be described more fully in connection with application of steam prior to ironing.

Support arrangement for the separator Referring to FIGS. 7 and 11, yoked bracket 370 mounted on the main frame of the apparatus, supports shaft 371 between arms 370a and 37017 which are provided with journals which permit shaft 371 to move axially forwardly and rearwardly and also, to rock about its axis, in the directions indicated by the arrows. Stop collars 372 fixed at either end of shaft 371 limit the extent of longitudinal movement. Arm 373 clamped to shaft 371 carries support bracket 374 which has a top surface 375 on which separator 235 is mounted. Eyebolt 376 is secured to arm 373.

Shaft 29 which extends between

main plates

10 and 11 has an extension 29a which supports tie-plate 27 (see FIG. 1). Arm 377 has a long hub 378 by which it mounts on shaft portion 29a for slidable movement axially along the shaft. Eyebolt 379 is attached to the free end of arm 377 and spring 380 is anchored between the eyes of

eyebolts

376 and 379. Tension adjusting screw 381 rotatably anchored in plate 27 (see FIG. 1) is threaded into arm 377 (see FIG. 7). Turning screw 381 so that it draws arm 377 toward plate 27 increases the tension exerted by spring 380 to oppose transverse rotational movement of arm 373 and shaft 371, and accordingly also of separator 235. The tension is initially adjusted so that the separator is urged toward leadon portion 186 and to resist displacement therefrom.

Any bump or bulkiness occurring in the seam will shift the separator to the right until passage of the bump. Tension exerted by spring 380 will then return the separator to the initial position. Such bulkiness in the seam may also shift the entire buck to the left. It will subsequently be explained how the buck is caused to return bodily by coaction of its internal lip with the buck inserts. Such lateral displacement of the buck may not be overcome quickly enough by the action of the buck inserts on the lip to maintain the desired close spacing between

edges

186a and 236a to retain alignment of the stitching with the center line of belt 198. In such instances, spring 380 will bring about immediate shifting of the separator so that it will follow lateral excursions of the buck.

Since shaft 371 is also free to move axially, the drag on the fabric previously mentioned also causes the separator to shift toward the rear of the apparatus, but whenever a bump passes between the stop members of the buck and main frame at the rear of the apparatus, the separator can move forwardly in unison with similar movement of the buck to accommodate passage of the bump.

Since leadon portion 236 of the separator is interleaved between overlapping layers 238a and 238k of the bridging member, such compensating movements of the separator will not disrupt connection with the outlet of the sewing machine.

The conveying mechanisms As in the parent case, feeding of the garment section through the ironing mechanism is accomplished in part by coaction of horizontal upper belt 52 and lower belt 26 (see FIG. 4). Belt 52 is wrapped around idler pulley 51 and engages the upper ply of the garment section, and belt 26 is wrapped around pulley 22 and engages the lower ply. A prepuller and a post puller have been added to improve handling of the fabric through the ironing mechanism. The prepuller utilizes

feed members

333 and 334 to draw the fabric after it leaves the sewing machine and before engagement by the main conveying members. It assists in overcoming any tendency to wander during the subsequent ironing operation of the line of stitching between the opened free ply edges.

The prepuller The constructional details which follow also apply to member 334. Referring to FIG. 9, member 333 is a disc having a somewhat larger diameter than pulley 51 and a largecentral bore 333a which surrounds hub 51A. A series of spaced openings 333b are disposed about the central bore. A corresponding series of cylindrical magnetic slugs 3330 are press fitted into openings 333b.

Pulley 51 is made of a magnetic material such as iron and is provided with flat face 51b. Slugs 333c project slightly beyond a similar flat face 333d of disc 333 to reduce frictional engagement between the flat faces when member 333 is coupled with pulley 51. Since the slugs are magnetically attracted to face 51b of the pulley, disc 333 becomes attached to the pulley and rotates with it. The clearance between hub 51a and bore 333a permits the disc to slip in any direction across face 51b until restrained by contact of the wall of the bore with the hub and contact of the tire 331 on the periphery of the disc with

members

186 and 236 through the fabric being fed.

As indicated in FIG. 10, the periphery of disc 333 is made up of a straight section 333e and a slightly tapered section 333 both of which are surrounded by the tire. The tire is made of material such as a member of the rubber family, which will provide good frictional engagement with all types of fabrics.

Because the disc has a larger diameter than the pulley, as the disc rotates with the pulley, its periphery tries to go faster than the periphery of the pulley. This results in an action by which tire 331 is thrust against the fabric with considerable pressure which produces good feeding engagement between the tire and fabric. Although the entire disc can be displaced as necessary to accommodate any bumps, as it rotates it always tends to come back into engagement with the fabric after passage of bumps.

In order for the free ply edges to be opened right up to the line of stitching, they must negotiate the complex slopes on both faces of portion 236 of the separator which are part of the contoured surface 237a which effects the eventual opening up of the edges as shown in FIGS. 19 and 20. These slopes increase laterally to the right as viewed in FIG. 17 and also to the rear as viewed in FIG. 8. the rearwardly moving fabric resists transverse movement across these slopes which is necessary for full opening up. Unlike the other portions of the fabric plies which are wrapped around the buck and which are pulled transversely in the opposite direction by the action of the large drive wheels such as 141 and 145 in FIG. 20, the free ply edges cannot be pulled transversely to bring about the desired full opening up.

A transverse pushing vector is therefore provided in the rearward feed action by putting a slight taper on the peripheries of the discs. Referring to FIG. 10, it can be seen that the rotational speed of a point on the line of junction between portions 333e and 333 is greater than that of a point on a line at the right edge of portion 333f because of the difference in diameter. This differential in speed causes the fabric passing under these respective portions of the periphery to travel at different rates which skews the right side of the free ply edges to the right as the ply edges move rearwardly, and this causes the free ply edges to ride up the slopes until the stitching between the plies is restrained by contact with edge 236a. This transverse pushing vector works in conjunction with the close positioning of edges 186a of the buck and 236a of the separator previously mentioned to effect full opening of the free ply edges right up to the stitching .just prior to engagement by the metal and buck belts.

Referring to FIG. 17, feeding of the plies by the discs is effected on the line of stitching joining the plies. Since this line of stitching is confined in a horizontal plane between

edges

186a and 236a, and held in the slot or track formed between these edges in a vertical plane by the pressures applied to the top ply by disc 333 initially and on the bottom ply by disc 334 a little later, the stitchline is retained in correct relation so that when the fabric moves rearwardly to open up the free ply edges, the stitchline between the open free edges will be aligned with the horizontal centerline of buck belt 198. This results in an ironed scam in which the plies are in true butt relation without any overlap either upwardly or downwardly.

Another aspect of the prefeeding of the fabric plies is treated below in conjunction with the traction reducing arrangement.

Belt takeup Referring to FIG. 3, as in the parent case, pulley 51 rotates on shaft 49 carried by arm 47 supported from shaft 44 which is journalled in support 43. In order to provide a takeup arrangement for belt 52, new arm 47a is attached to shaft 44 in place of arm 47. The new arm is provided with an internal, longitudinally extending slot (see FIG. 4) in which arm 47 is fitted and in which it can be shifted as required to tighten belt 52. Tightening bolt 47b clamps arm 47 in adjusted position to arm 47a.

Traction reducing arrangement The portions of the fabric plies which become wrapped around the buck are pulled transversely by the action of the large drive rollers, and the extent of this transverse component is determined by the angling of the drive rollers which can be adjusted to suit the needs of various fabrics. The transverse vector in the opposite direction in the free ply edges provided as mentioned above to effect full opening of the plies right up to the stitching, is produced by the taper on the peripheries of

discs

333 and 334. Obviously this vector is much less effective than that of the large drive rollers which operate rearwardly of the tapered discs, but whose effect is reflected through the continuity of the fabric to the portion which passes under belt 52 in the area in which pulley 51 also drives disc 333.

With some fabrics, it is desirable to lessen the effectiveness of the traction provided by the forward portion of belt 52 to reduce this reflected eflect and this is accomplished by an arrangement which transfers engagement of the fabric in this area from belt 52 to disc 333. Arm 47 supports a depending arm 385 which carries a pair of rollers 386 at its lower extremity. The rollers fit in mating grooves of the lower run of belt 52 in a location at which the belt passes over a non-flexible portion of the buck which is supported by belt 26 and pulley 22. This provides a support arrangement for arm 47 which prevents pulley 51 from exerting downward pressure through belt 52 to deflect flexible leadon member 186.

As indicated in FIG. 6, arm 47 has a horizontally extending slot 470 and arm 385 has a vertically extending slot 387 which permit both horizontal and vertical shifting of arm 385.

In making a positional adjustment, belt 52 is positioned so that clearance exists between it and the surface of the fabric and the adjusted position is fixed by tightening bolt 388 and nut 389. This clearance is indicated in FIG. 17.

The steam system As mentioned, just before the garment section is brought into engagement with metal belt and belt 198, a spray of steam is applied to the fabric. Application of steam is desirable to obtain satisfactory ironing of many