US2897509A

US2897509A - Collar and method of making collars

Info

Publication number: US2897509A
Application number: US582522A
Authority: US
Inventors: Ainslie Thomas Dow
Original assignee: Phillips Van Heusen Corp
Current assignee: PVH Corp
Priority date: 1956-05-03
Filing date: 1956-05-03
Publication date: 1959-08-04
Anticipated expiration: 1976-08-04

Description

M at? Aug. 4, 1959 -r. D: AINSLIE 2,

COLLAR AND METHOD OF MAKING. COLLARS Filed May 5. 1956 m3 FIG.1. 2

IN VEN TOR.

wake dil'orley United @rares ate-m COLLAR AND METHOD OF MAKING COLLARS Thomas Dow Ainslie, Metuchen, NJ.,. assignor to Phillips-Van Heusen Corporation, New York, N.Y., a corporation of New York Application May 3, 1956, Serial No. 582,522

1 Claim. (Cl. 2-132) This invention relates to collars, and more particularly tothose of the type which are permanently or detachably secured to; mens shirts- It is one of the objects of the invention to provide a collar constructionin which wrinkling of the body of the collar and rolling or turning up of the tips orextremities of the collar will be materially retarded- It is an object of the invention to. provide means at the rear of the collar body by which predetermined stress or tensi'oncan be applied to thereby cause the collar body, in the area of the extremities or points, to tend to assume a convex form and act resistantly to outward curling when the collar is worn.

It is another object of the invention to provide means, in the form of a patch or fabric section, at the rear of the collar at the front portion, which can be of greater shrinkage tendencies than the body of the collar, whereby the greater shrinkage of the patch will apply tension to the body of the collar transversely of the collar and cause the same to resist any outward curling inclination.

It is still another object of the invention to provide a patch or fabric section of substantially triangulated form, at the front of the collar at the rear thereof, which fabric section can, if desired, be utilized as a pocket for the reception of a permanent or removable stay, and which fabric section can be tensioned when the collar is sewed to the shirt and can be thus caused to operate to apply pull on the body of the collar in a manner to resist outward curling of the same.

With these, and other objects to be hereinafter set forth in view, I have devised the arrangement of parts to be described and more particularly pointed out in the claim appended hereto.

In the accompanying drawing, wherein an illustrative embodiment of the invention is disclosed,

Fig. 1 is a face view, looking at the rear or inside face, of a portion of a collar in which the present invention is embodied;

Fig. 2 is a front elevational view of the complete collar, looking at the outer face of the same and in readiness for attachment to a shirt;

Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. l, but showing the applied patch or fabric section partially detached from the body of the collar to disclose construction;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the patch or applied fabric section;

Fig. 5 is a sectional view, taken substantially on the line 5-5 of Fig. 1, looking in the direction of the arrows, and

Fig. 6 is a view showing a slightly modified construction.

Referring to the drawing, 1 indicates a collar blank or body, which may be of any of the conventional shapes known in the trade, and both ends of the collar will be shaped and constructed substantially as shown in Fig. 1.

The body of the collar may be made of any relatively heavy material, such as duck, or of a multi-ply material also of considerable thickness and weight and such as is widely used for collar manufacture. The upper edge of the collar, or that edge which is secured in the collar band of the shirt, is that indicated at 2; the lower edge of the collar being indicated at 3, and the forward edge at 7. In the manufacture of these collars, a binding strip 4 is applied over the lower edge 3 and secured by a line of stitching indicated at 5. A binding strip 8 is also applied over the forward ends 7 of the collar, and the bindings 8 are each' secured in place by a line of stitching indicated at 9.

The reinforcement, patch or fabric section 11,. applied as shown in- Fig. 1, is most clearly disclosed in Fig. 4, wherein it will be observed that the same con sists of a section of fabric of relatively light weight as compared to the material of the body of the collar. The piece 11 is angularly, doubled upon itself, as indicated at 12, to thereupon produce atwo-ply patch of truncated triangular form, its plies being shown at 13 and I4. As an alternative this patch may be composed of two separate and similar pieces of material placed in facial relation.

In continuing the operations on the collar, the lower edge 3 is inturned in amanner to bring the bound edge behind the body of the blank, while the ends 7' are similarly' inturned to bring the bindings 8 behind the body of the blank. The edges 3 and 7 are maintained in such inturned condition by means of the single lines of stitching shown respectively at 6 and 10, such lines of stitching being the only stitching observable on the exterior of the collar, as shown in Fig. 2.

The two-ply reinforcement piece or patch 11 is maintained in place by the stitching it which extends along the marginal edges 15 of the

plies

13 and 14, and also by the stitching 6 which extends through the lower edges 16 of said plies. The top edges 17 can, if desired, be secured to the body 1 by a line of stitching 18a or these edges can be left free until the reinforcement 11 is tensioned when the collar is being sewed into the neckb-and as will be described.

If a stiifening member or stay is to be employed in the collar, a pocket 25 (Fig. 5) is produced between the

plies

13 and 14, by means of the angularly-disposed parallel lines of stitching Zl and 22, extending through both

plies

13 and 14 of the reinforcing piece. If the reinforcing patch is composed of two separate pieces of fabric rather than the doubled-over piece shown in Fig. 4, the

stitching

21 and 22 will hold the two plies together. A stiifening strip is shown at 24 in place in the pocket 25 and it may be permanently retained therein or may be removed and replaced through a slot, not shown, but which can be provided in the upper end portion of the pocket 25 adjacent to the line of stitching 18 which normally closes that end of the pocket.

From the foregoing description it will be apparent that there is provided in the collar, in the forward portions thereof, reinforcing pieces which are of triangulated form and have free angular edges 12. When the collar is attached into a neckbancl, the operator can apply tension to the patch in a direction substantially transverse to the length of the collar and which will, after being sewn in place, remain under stress and thus tend to curve the collar fabric inwardly or convefly, causing the body of the collar to strongly resist the normal tendency to curl upwardly and outwardly when the collar is worn. It is also possible to make the reinforcement patches of a. material having a greater shrinkage capacity than the body of the collar so that laundering will cause the reinforcing patch to shrink to a greater degree than the collar body, thus keeping the points of the collar from curling upwardly.

The area of the patch is such that if a stay or stiffener is used it can be arranged in a pocket extending either parallel to the front edge of the collar or at an angle thereto, such as for example, parallel to the edge 12, or at any position between said edge and the front edge of the collar. it is also to be noted that when a stay is used, the stay will be carried solely by the reinforcing patch and not by the collar. body asis the common practice.

In the embodiment of the invention shown in Fig. 6, the reinforcement patch is shown at 27, and the same may be generally similar to that shown in Fig. 4, except that a single line of stitching 26 provides a stay-receiving pocket between it and the fold line 28.

The arrangement herein described is such that by the means disclosed the collar is reinforced and prevented from upward and outward curling by means solely arranged at the back of the collar and invisible from the front as will be clearly seen in Fig. 2.

Having described a single embodiment of the invention, it is obvious that the same is not to be restricted thereto, but is broad enough to cover all structures coming within the scope of the annexed claim.

What I claim is:

A shirt collar construction comprising a collar body having inner and outer plies stitched togetheralong its lower and forward edges, a reinforcement piece consisting of a two-ply generally triangulated section of fabric having generally parallel upper and lower edges and converging side edges being longer than the lower edge and attached only at the forward end of the collar body, said piece having one of its side edges and its upper and lower edges attached to corresponding edges of the collar body by said stitching, the plies of the reinforcement piece adjacent the other side edge being stitched together on parallel lines to provide a stay-receiving pocket, the piece being attached to the collar body while the piece is under tension and while the collar body and piece are being sewed into a'neckband and with the transverse width of the material of the collar body being greater than the length of the reinforcement piece whereby the reinforcement piece is maintained under constant tension to resist upward and outward curl of the collar body, and a stay contained in the pocket and carried solely by the reinforcing piece. 9

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Kurtz July 28, 1931 2,070,464 Barrow Feb. 9, 1937 32,183,242 Liebowitz Dec. 12, 1939 2,186,356 Bihaly Jan. 9, 1940 --2,500,911 Cohn Man-14, 1950 2,769,979 Driesbach Nov. 13, 1956 FOREIGN PATENTS 60,282 Norway Sept. 28, 1935 nus; an...