US2537602A

US2537602A - Manufacture of moccasin shoes

Info

Publication number: US2537602A
Application number: US17167A
Authority: US
Inventors: Richard J Potvin
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1948-03-26
Filing date: 1948-03-26
Publication date: 1951-01-09
Anticipated expiration: 1968-01-09

Description

Jan. 9, 1951 R. J. POTVIN 2,537,602

MANUFACTURE OF MOCCASIN SHOES Filed March 26, 1948 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 Jan. 9, 1951 R. J. POTVIN 2,537,602

MANUFACTURE OF MOCCASIN SHOES Filed March 26, 1948 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Jan. 9, 1951 R. J. POTVIN 2,537,602

MANUFACTURE OF MOCCASIN SHOES Filed March 26, 1948 3 Sheets-$heet 3 7 "ZIVIIIIIIIIIIIIII flifioz neys Patented Jan. 9, 1951 uurrsu s'rnrss PATENT orri s MANUFACTURE OF MOOCASM SHOES Richard 3. Potvin, Brockton, Mass. Application March 26, 1948, Serial No. 17,16?

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This invention relates to the manufacture of moccasin shoes, and pertains more particularly to improvements in the process of making leather moccasin shoes of the type frequently worn by infants and children.

The principal purpose of the invention is to produce, in a simple, economical and eflicient manner, a shoe or bootee of the moccasin type in which the plug is attached to the forepart of the vamp more neatly and securely than heretofore and in a fashion to ensure a smooth and substantially unwrinkled inner surface which is more comfortable to the wearer.

Another object is to produce a moccasin shoe in which the front portion of the vamp is reinforced by a toe stiiiener or box, thereby ensuring uniformity in the shape of the toe portion of the shoe, regardless of variations in the degree of stretch of the leather used in manufacture, as well as avoiding crushing of the shoe at the toe during display or subsequent wear.

Further objects and advantages of the invention reside in the novel features of the preferred process of manufacture which are hereinafter described in connection with the accompanying drawings and set forth in the appended claims, and which contribute to the production of a more durable, comfortable and attractive moccasin shoe, than heretofore available.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a plan view of a leather blank used in forming the sole, vamp and quarter portions of the improved shoe;

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the partially formed shoe, showing the blank provided with a back stay and shaped to a last;

Fig. 3 is a plan view of a top assembly comprising a plug and tongue member, and an attached lining;

Fig. 4 is an edge view of the assembly shown in Fig. 3;

-Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 2 showing an outsole applied to the shoe and illustrating the application of the plug to the forepart of the vamp; I

Fig. 6 is a plan view of the finished shoe, showing the plug and its lining stitched to the vamp;

Fig. 7 is a transverse section taken on line I---! of Fig. 6;

Fig. 8 is a side view, partly in sectionof a twopart, separable last preferably used in making the shoe, the last parts being separated; i

Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. 1, showing a modified blank having a toe stiffener, or box, cemented thereto; 1

Fig. 10 is a view similar to Fig. 6 of a shoe made from the blank of Fig. 9; and

Figs. 11 and 12 are transverse and longitudinal 2 sections taken on lines llll and lZ-tt, re-. spectively, of Fig. 1.0.

In accordance with the practice of the invention as illustrated in Figs. 1 to 8, a flat blank at of elk or other soft leather is cut or died out to form integral sole, vamp'and quarter portions of the shoe. The forepart of the vamp portion 22 is marginally skived at 23 and preferably provided with a series of small perforations 24 to receive a puckering string as hereafter explained. The front margin of the quarter portions 25 are also perforated at 26 to provide lacing apertures. Pointed tabs 21 are preferably formed around the periphery of the skived margin 23.

In preparing the blank for lasting, a back stay 28 (Fig. 2 is suitably stitched to the rear margins of the quarter portions and to the rear of the sole portion 29 by customary methods; a puckering string 30 is threaded through the perforations 24 with a lacing needle; and the forepart of the vamp 22 is mulled and softened by dipping it in warm water or a suitable solution.

A last is then inserted into the formed back part of the blank. As shown in Fig. 8, the last preferably comprises a body part 3| and a cone part 32 which are sepa'rably connected in known fashion by pins or dowels 33 received in holes or sockets of the cone 32.

The softened vamp part 22 is then pulled over the toe of the last by hand or by the use of a lasting jack, and secured in place by tightening the puckering string which forms the tucks or gathers 34 around the toe portion of the vamp.- The taut string is then tied at 35 at the back of the partially formed shoe as shown inFig. 2.- The gathers 34 are then hammered down with a rawhide mallet to flatten the puckered vamp and reduce the irregularities in its bottom surface. The hand lasted shoe preferably remains in this condition for a day to set the shape of the fore-j part.

An outsole 36 of chrome leather, felt or other suitable material, used alone or in combination, may then be cemented under pressure to the bottom or sole portion of the lasted shoe; but this operation may be performed just before the shoe is removed from the last, if desired.

The next essential operation is the application of the top piece or plug to the lasted vamp. The top piece preferably comprises a died out leather strip forming the plug proper 3i and the tongue portion 38, and a felt lining piece cemented to the bottomof the tongue 38 and extending freely below the plug as shown (Fig. 4). The margin of the lining part 40 extends beyond the periphery of the plug 31 (Fig. 3), and said free portion is folded backwardly under the lined tongue when the plug is applied to the vamp, as

shown in Fig. 5. Prior to such application, the cone 32 of the divided last is removed to afford adequate space for the amxation of the plug; and cement is applied to the bottom of the plug around its margin, and to the exposed margin of the vamp.

The plug is placed in the position shown in Fig. 5 with its curved front margin applied to the gathered vamp and its edge extending forwardly of the puckering string 30; and the plug margin is pressed onto the vamp to bond the parts together. It will be observed that the plug margin overlaps the gathered vamp margin to a substantial degree, extending well beyond the bases of the pointed tabs 21 and thereby ensuring a firm adhesive bond.

When the cement has set, the puckering string is cut at the rearward edges of the plug 31, the

g body 31 of the last is removed, and the plug lining 40 is inserted under the plug and under the vamp margin. The plug and the lining are then stitched to the gathered vamp in a single opera tion, by a line of stitching ll. A sewing machine known as a 29K type and commonly used in sewing harness, is recommended for this operation.

After the plug and lining have been stitched in place, the outsole 36 is marginally stitched at 42 (Fig. '7), to complete the shoe.

In accordance with the modified and preferred practice of the invention as shown in Figs. 9 to 12, a toe stiffener or box piece 5| is a plied to the forepart of the vamp portion of the blank 2 I, and cemented in place with elastic cement. The box 5| preferably consists of a strip of thermopla tic or thermo-setting material of known characteristics, which may be softened by heat or by a solvent or activator applied to its surface, and which hardens on cooling or on evaporation of the solvent. The box is cut in substantially arcuate form, as shown in Fig. 9.

The blank 2| is formed and lasted, after softening the box piece, the plug and its lining are applied and secured, and the shoe is outsoled and finished, all as above described in connection with Figs. 1 to 8, the plug stitching 4| passing through the box 5| as well as through the plug 31 and lining part 40. In order to prevent the softened box from sticking to the last during the lasting operation, the toe portion of the last is preferably coated with a carnauba wax preparation.

By providing the moccasin shoe with a box toe, as just explained. the toe part of the shoes will present and retain a uniform shape. irrespective of the degree of stretch of the leather used in making the individual shoes, and the toe will resist crushing or other deformation, thereby enhancing the appearance of the shoes and the comfort of the wearer. Although the use of the toe box or stiffener is particularly advantageous in moccasin shoes constructed as herein dis closed, it will be a parent that the toe stiffener may be incorporated in other types of moccasins made from a blank having a sole portion and a vamp portion to which the stiffener may be cemented prior to lasting.

In both forms of the invention herein described, the vamp forepart is shaped to extend a greater distance over the toe of the last than heretofore, and the plug covers a greater depth of the lasted vamp margin, so that the plug stitching has a firm engagement with the gathered vamp and holds the skived and hammered gathers thereof in flattened condition to I 4 ensure a relatively smooth inside surface. The thin pointed tabs 21 fit together in lasting the vamp and serve to avoid the formation of a sharp line or ridge at the edge of the lasted vamp. Any irregularities of the inside surface are additionally softened by the lining 40, the margin of which extends beyond the edge of the plug and hence underlies the gathers of the vamp.

I claim:

1. A method of making a moccasin shoe consisting in forming a blank constituting sole, vamp and quarter portions of the shoe and having a perforated margin around the forepart of the vamp portion; closing the quarters at the back of the shoe to form a heel pocket; lacing a puckering string through the perforations of said forepart margin; inserting a last into the heel pocket of the partially formed vamp, pulling the vamp forepart over the front of the last, and tightening the puckering string to gather the margin of said forepart; hammering the forepart margin to flatten the gathers therein; cementing the front margin of a plug piece flatwise upon the top of the flattened gathers so that the plug margin overlaps a substantial portion of the gathered vamp margin; removing the last and stitching through said margins to complete the forepart of the shoe.

2. A method of making a moccasin shoe consisting in forming a blank constituting sole, vamp and quarter portions of the shoe and having a perforated margin around the forepart of the vamp portion; closing the quarters at the back of the shoe to form a heel pocket; lacing a puckering string through the perforations of said forepart margin; inserting a last into the heel pocket of the partially formed vamp, pulling the vamp forepart over the front of the last. and tightening the puckering string to gather the margin of said forepart; hammering the forepart margin to flatten the gathers therein; cementing a lining to the tongue portion of a composite tongue and plug piece so that the forward end portion of the lining freely underlies the plug portion thereof; cementing the front margin of said plug portion fiatwise upon the top of the flattened gathers while the free portion of the lining is turned rearwardly, with the plug margin overlapping a substantial portion of the gathered vamp margin; removing the last and folding said free lining portion under said overlapped margins; and stitching through said overlapped margins and said lining to complete the forepart of the shoe.

RICHARD J. PO'I'VIN.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date I 910,677 Hanson Jan. 26, 1909 1,128,902 Rawlings Feb. 16, 1915 1,386,654 Pope Aug. 9, 1921 1,959,892 Anderson May 22, 1934 2,086,526 Ashworth July 13, 1937 2,130,794 Enos Sept. 20, 1938 2,221,841 Medwick Nov. 19. 1940 2,381,356 Lee Aug. '7, 1945 2,412,521 Lee Dec. 10, 1946 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 15.332 Great Britain July 29. 1901