US2526024A - Garment collar - Google Patents

Description

Oct. 17, 1950 7 R, H 2,526,024

GARMENT COLLAR Filed March 27, 1946 v 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 FIG: 1. 1 16532.

V INVENTOR. fioberfdlial,

ATTORNEYS.

Oct. 17, 1950 H 2,526,024

GARMENT COLLAR Filed March 27, 1946 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 IN V EN TOR. Kobe rzfcfffall,

ATTORNEYS.

Patentecl Oct. 17, 19 50 UNITED STATES PTENT' OFFICE GARMENT COLLAR,

Robert J. Hall, East Lansdowne, Pa. Application March 27, 1946, Serial No. 657.523

1 Claim.

This invention relates to garments in general, while it has more particular reference to shirts, blouses, pajama coats, dresses, and kindred articles of wearing apparel.

Heretofore, much time, effort and ingenuity has been resorted to in order to produce garments of the species referred to which, when worn after washing and laundering would present some reasonable semblance of the original or desirable shape, but without any appreciable success due to uneven shrinkage and faulty boarding or pressing. More particularly are such features of disadvantage inherent in connection with the neck portion and/or collars of such cleaned or laundered garments, it being markedly noticeable how almost invariably, after the first washing or cleaning operation, the rear portion of the neckband or collar projects away from the wearers neck at an unsightly angle, whereas the collar points or tabs at the front-are out of symmetrical balance.

A fundamental object, accordingly, of this invention is to provide garments of the above indicated species with a novel form of neck outout and by complementally contouring the lower edgev of the neckband or collar so that said parts will always maintain their approximately correct relation with respect to the garment as a whole.

Another object is to provide a garment of the type indicated in the preceding. paragraph that lends itself to more facile boarding or pressing, .and which can. be folded with greater compactness for storage or packaging without fear of, being mussed-up or disfigured.

A further object is to shape the garment neck opening, and the related edge of the attached collar, so that said collar will always neatly fit the nape of'the wearers neck and around the sides thereof with a merging curvature from the shoulders into approximate registration with the clavicle at the front, whereby the garment is made far more comfortable to wear and drapes downwardly over the body along graceful lines, with an attendant enhancement of its attractiveness and serviceability.

Other objects of this invention with ancillary advantages, will in part be obvious, and in part be hereinafter pointed out; while said invention may accordingly be briefly stated as essentially consisting in the features of construction, combination and arrangement of parts hereinafter described: exemplified by the accompanying drawings, and the scope whereof is more particularly defined by the concluding claim.

In. the drawings:

Fig. l is a broken front analogous garment embodying this invention.

Fig. 2 is a similarbackview of the same.

Fig; 3 is a plan view of the improved shirt or other garment as folded ready for packaging or storage.

Fig. i is an end view of the same. Fig. 5 is a view showing how the neck opening of the shirt or other garment is formed or shaped in contradistinction to conventional methods.

Fig. 6 is a view illustrating the improved neckband or collar of this invention, and,

Fig. 7 is a development of the collar as shaped or ready for attachment to the improved neck opening of the garment.

Fig. 8 is a plan view illustrative of a modified form of this invention as adapted to drop shoulder garments.

In these drawings and referring first to Figs. 1 to 4 inclusive the major-portion or body of the improved shirt is generally designated by the reference character It, while Hi indicates the sleeves, and i5 the neck-opening. In order to better clarify the distinguishing features of this invention I will first explain the method of cutting-out or otherwise forming the neck opening I5 for garments of the species hereinbefore referred to and, on reference to Fig. 5, it is to be noted that IS designates the vertical center line of the shirt body 13, and I! a rectangularly-related or horizontal line intersecting the line H5, at point a. Points 12 to each side of theline l6 are marked off, for example only, at equal distances of about 3 inches, and the back half of the neck opening concaved out along the dotand-dash curve [8 to a desirable depth in the center of about oneeha'lf inch as typically marked 0, said point 0 being approximately central at the back of the wearers neck. To make the front-half of the body neck opening, one point of a pair of compasses is placed at point at oneh-alf inch above point a corresponding-to the disfreedom for the collar 2!, Figs. 6 and '2, to drape over the shoulder lines when boarded or pressed.

Having outlined a form of back and front patterns along the lines I8, is and 2G, I will now explain the development of the improved type of neck opening Hi and associated collar in accord ance with my invention. The back pattern of the shirt is first centralized with respect to the view of a shirt or vertical line l6, above referred to, andthe neck and shoulder lines 58, 29 respectively marked out as aforesaid to definethe points I), c, b and shoulder drop 2. *1 next move said pattern onehalf inch or until the point e coincides with point a, which results in corresponding elevation of each shoulder point to a point 9, whereupon I mark off a new point g inwardly three-eighths of an inch or at points g, see Fig. 5, and then mark off the new back neck line as indicated by the full line 22 in said figure. Thereupon I mergingly curve the interval between the new points 9', and the points b to complete the new composite back, shoulder and neck cut-out as indicated by the respectively connected full line 22 joining the points g and I) through the shoulder drop line 6, which completes the new form of body back upper edge.

In order to make the new front portions in accordance with this invention, the procedure just described is followed as regards marking out the neck points f, b, and the right and left-hand halves of the neck opening line l9; whereupon I mark off a point 72 at a distance of one-and-fiveeighth inches, to the right and left of the point I, and using said point h as a pivot turn the respective front half patterns counter-clockwise and clockwise until the shoulder point b is approximately one-eighth of an inch below the point g and then mark out the new front neck line l9, up to points g which now assumes a substantially elliptical outline and thus complete the new shirt front half -portions, as readily understood by those conversant with the art.

Turning now to the formation of the collar 2|, as shown in Fig. 6, vertical and horizontal lines l6, H are initially plotted out, which intersect at the point designted c, whereupon I draw a line 23, parallel with the line ll at a distance of, preferably, three-quarters of an inch thereabove; and along the line 23 I set right and left-hand points i at a predetermined distance of seven-and-threeeighth inches to each side, of the vertical line i 6, or conforming with the desirable length of collar, and then mark off point a on line [6 to correspond with the showing of a in Fig. 5. From the vertical line I6 along the line 23 I now mark off, at a distance of about two-and-three-quarter inches, right and left hand points 7' said distance being equal to the length of the curvilinear section of the neck opening l5 between the points a and g; and from said points 7' I drop vertically three-eighths of an inch to points 70. Along the line ll there is now marked off spaced points Z at a distance of three-and-one-eighth inches from point where the lines it and H intersect, said distance betweenthe points 0 and Z corresponding to the length of the neck opening dimensions 0 to b. Furthermore, from each collar point i there is marked-off inwardly another point m, one half -inch below line 23, of one-andfive-eighth inches, or equal to the curve intervening the points 1 and h in Fig. 5. At a still further inward distance of two-and-three-quarter inches, along the lower edge of the collar 2|, as viewed in Fig. 6, there is marked from each end of said collar 2| further points n which provide an interval of approximately one-quarter inch between each point n and the adjacent point k, that serves to diminish the back of the collar size by an equivalent amount. The collar lower or inner edge is thereupon cut-out along or from one point 2' through 712, n, is, to a and continued through points is, n, m to the other point i to provide a lower edge for conformative mating juncture about the neck-opening I5; and along the upper and side lines 26, respectively to complete the collar 2!. lhus it will be clearly understood that the increase of material included 4 in or added to the garment body, as typically indi-' cated by the dot-and-dash line 22 in Fig. '7, incidental to raising the back of the neck-opening I5; is complementally takenout of the lower part or attaching edge of the collar 2| so that when said collar 2! is joined and seamed to the body l3 it assumes the approximate form shown by said Fig. 7, whereby the finished garment and collar 2|, as regards height, is not changed when compared with others of standard make. However, the collar 2| lies flat when boarded or pressed and does not project upwards, hence the garment, as a whole, can be more neatly folded and compacted, as typically shown in Figs. 3 and 4.

In making drop shoulder garments 21, as typically indicated in Fig. 8, it is to be particularly noted that to accommodate the same to the improved neck-opening l5 and collar 2i of this invention, whatever shoulder reduction such as the one-and-one-half inch wide strip 28 is made, in the front halves of the garment is added to the back shoulder portion at 29. With this change the neck opening [5 will be slightly reduced approximately one-quarter inch and it must be stretched at the points 0 when the collar 2| is attached to the garment; inasmuch as at said point the neck-opening !5 must be slightly rounder to give one-eighth more distance from point b to point 9 in Fig. '5 as the stretching tends to narrow such distance.

Having described the manner of forming the neck-opening l5 and collar 2| in accordance with this invention it will be readily understood that it is applicable to any desired species of garment requiring a shaped-collar; or lapel-styled garments that are capable of being Worn open neck fashion, or closed-up at the throat for Wear with a tie. A further feature of advantage is that the improved collar 2| requires no shaping or pressing previous to attachment to the neck opening |5 as it is substantially self-shaping when attached, While it Will be readily understood that the neck-opening i5 and collar 2| herein disclosed not only reduces the cost of production but will also speed-up production; while in the pajama, shirt, sport-shirt, blouse, dress, robe and numerous other branches of the garment industries, the improved collar 2| will attract attention by reason of the better fitting to the back of the neck when worn, and the compact appearance of the garment when pressed ready for packaging. Another important featureresides in the fact that the collar 2| of this invention, when-worn open, will not break or tear at'the lapel, but will lay fiatand not tend to curl up at the points.

Having'thus described my invention, I claim:

A garment comprising a back member and complemental front members, said back member having a concavity across the upper edge at a level to elevate the back half of the neck opening and shoulder points wholly about one-half-inch, said front members jointly including opposed curvatures merging down elliptically from the back member elevated shoulder points and halfneck opening to a common point centrally at the front of the garment; and a collar having the lower edge decreased by a lengthwise portion, spacedly intermediate its ends, said decreased portion corresponding with that portion added to the back member, by elevation thereof, whereby when the garment back, front members and collar are joined along the back and front opening edges of said garment and seamed together to effect formative shaping of saidcollar, said parts positively maintain correct relationship and fit 5 at the back of the wearers neck and shoulders Number without any outward bulging of the collar. 1,138,895 ROBERT J. HALL. 1,509,841 1,666,291 REFERENCES CITED 5 2 16 342 The following references are of record in the 2,263,113 file of this patent: 2,289,479

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 10 Number 161,110 Fisk Mar. 23, 1875 4,574 401,717 Renshaw Apr. 16, 1889 I '6 7, Name Date Rubinstein May 11, 1915 Miller Sept. 30, 1924 I Kaplan Apr. 17, 1928 David July 18, 1939 Habress Dec. 30, 1941 Bryant July 14, 1942 FOREIGN PATENTS Country Date Great Britain Feb. 19, 1897

Images