US245727A

US245727A - Eobeet lamoht

Info

Publication number: US245727A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1881-08-16
Anticipated expiration: 1898-08-16

Description

(No Model.)

, R.LAM0NT. I

MACHINE FOR AND METHOD 0P SEWING STRAW BRAID. No. 245,727. Patented Aug. 16,1881.,

N4 PETERS. PholvLilhngnpher, Washington. a. c.

UNITED STATES PATENT OEEicE.

ROBERT LAMONT, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

MACHINE FOR AND METHOD OF SEWING STRAW BRAID.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No, 245,727, dated August 16, 1881.

Application filed June 28, 1881.

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, ROBERT LAMONT, of Brooklyn, in the county of Kings and State of New York, have invented an Improvement in Machines for and Methods of Sewing Straw Braids, of which the following is a specification.

Machines have been usedfor sewing straw braid with an elastic chain-stitch adapted to the stretching and pressing action in blocking the bonnet or hat. In these machines the sewing is visible upon the surface of the hat because the stitching is through one braid, near the edge thereof, into the braid below.

My invention is for concealing the stitches on the outer or right side of the hat or bonnet. With this object in view I provide peculiar guides for the braid, that lift up the edge of one layer of the braid, so thatthe line of stitches that unite the other braids may be beneath the edge of this layer of braid and covered by it when the braid assumes its flat position or the hat is, pressed.

By this improvement the braid is united in the most firm and reliable manner, and the stitches cannot be seen when the hat or bonnet is completed for use.

In the drawings, Figure l is a side view of a sewing-machine with myimprovcd guides in place. Fig. 2 is a plan view of the bed and guides. Fig. 3 is a plan View of the guides and part of the bed in larger size than shown in Fig. 2, and Fig. 4 is a section at the line 00 as, Fig. 3, of the guides and braid in larger size for greater olearness.

The bed a of the machine, the needle b, and needle-bar b, the presser-foot a, feeding device d, and the looper are of any usual or desired character.

I prefer and use a single chain-stitch; but a double chain-stitch may be used or any other form of stitch adapted to sewing straw braids, as my invention is not limited in this particular.

I make use of three guides for the braid, one guide, '5, for the outer edge ofthe loose braid, another guide, 0, for the edge of the layer of braid that has been sewed to the rest of the fabric, and a third guide, 8, for lifting the edge of the previous layer of braid. The layer of braid, the

(No model.)

edge of which is lifted, is marked 1, the other layer is marked 2, and the loose braid that is a to be sewed to the layer 2 is marked 3.

The guide 1' is adjustable, so that the edge of the braid 3 may be nearer to or farther from the line of sewing performed by the needle 0. I have represented a slotted plate, 1'', and screw 4 as the means for holding and adjusting the guide i.

The guide 0 is in the form of a flange upon a spring-plate, 0, that is slotted and attached by a screw, 5, to the bed. This spring-plate o is above the loose braid 3, and the guide 0 is for the edge of the braid 2. To determine the distance the line of stitching that unites 2 and 3 together shall be from the edge of the braid 2. The guide 1' is cut away upon the side that is next to the bed a, so as to allow for the plate 0 passing such guide i and being attached to the bed a.

The guide 8 is simply a lifter for the edge of the layer 1 of braid. The end of this lifter is close to the path of the needle, and the curved lifting finger or projection 7 passes in between the braids l and 2, and its upper surface is by preference scored with grooves that are slightly inclined, so that the braid tends to run upon the guide 8 as it is drawn along. This guide 8 is preferably supported upon the end of the rocking lever Z, the fulcrum of which is at on, and there is a spring, a, to apply a slight pressure to keep the guide 5 down upon the braid 2, and the cam-lever t is employed for pressing down the back end of the lever and lifting the front end and relieving the guide 8 from pressing on the braid.

From the foregoing it will be evident that the braid l is lifted and bent back by the action of the guide 8 sufficiently to allow the line of stitching that unites the braids 2 and 3 to be under the edge of the braid l, so as to be invisible when the hat or bonnet is blocked and pressed.

I claim as my invention-- 1. The combination, in a machine for sewing 5 straw braids, of the guides i 0 s, the guide t so that the line of stitches will come beneath the edge of the braid, substantially as set forth. 2. The combination, in a machine for sewing straw braid, of the guide i, plate i, and clamp- 5 ing-screw, the guide 0, plate 0, and clampingscrew, the guide 8, lever 1, spring 72, and lifting-cam 16, substantially as set forth.

3. The method herein described of sewing straw braid, consisting in passing the braid 3 IO to be sewed between the bed and the previous- ]y-sewed braid 2, lifting up the edge of the previous braid 1, and uniting the braid 3 to the braid 2 by a line of stitching that comes beneath the edge of the braid 1, substantially as set forth. I5

Signed by me this 17th day of June, A. D.

ROBERT LAMONT.

Witnesses HAROLD SERRELL, WILLIAM G. Mom.