US2411328A - Dressmaker's pattern - Google Patents

Dressmaker's pattern Download PDF

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US2411328A
US2411328A US44281242A US2411328A US 2411328 A US2411328 A US 2411328A US 44281242 A US44281242 A US 44281242A US 2411328 A US2411328 A US 2411328A
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Prior art keywords
pattern
adhesive
fabric
fig
portions
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Marian W Macnab
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Marian W Macnab
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING, FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A41H3/06Patterns on paper
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10STECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10S24/00Buckles, buttons, clasps
    • Y10S24/11Adhesive
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10STECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10S462/00Books, strips, and leaves for manifolding
    • Y10S462/90Adhesive
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T428/00Stock material or miscellaneous articles
    • Y10T428/24Structurally defined web or sheet [e.g., overall dimension, etc.]
    • Y10T428/24802Discontinuous or differential coating, impregnation or bond [e.g., artwork, printing, retouched photograph, etc.]
    • Y10T428/24826Spot bonds connect components

Description

Nov. 19, 1946. M, wl Ma|\|, L\Bl Y 2,411,328

DRESSMAKERS PATTERN Filed May 13. 1942 e@ ea @/jb w Q Q 7@ W Nac/Na WEAK ADHESW; J "Figi l 5% 0? CD5/WDW@ 4% www Patented Nov. 19, 1946 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 2,411,328 DnEssMAKERs PATTERN Marian W. MacNab, Chevy Chase, Md. Application May 13, 1942, Serial No. 442,812

8 Claims. 1

This invention relates to dressmakers patterns and the like; and it comprises a dressmakers pattern formed of the usual thin, tissue-like pal per, Cellophane, or other similar material, provided with means for temporarily securing the pattern to fabric, as for instance fabric piece goods, said means being advantageously a relatively weak adhesive of the nondrying pressure sensitive type and adapted by controlling its composition or manner or extent of use to provide suf cient fastening of the pattern to the fabric for the purposes usually intended while at the same time enabling removal of the pattern therefrom without tearing or rupturing it, the pattern so provided being normally capable of use and reuse a number of times before exhaustion of the adhesive, all as more fully hereinafter set `forth and as claimed. l

Dressmakers patterns generally consist of a number of individual piecesof thin, light weight, tissue-like paper, representing the different component parts of a garment or the like. Each piece is cut full size and serves as a guide for marking and cutting out exactly similar parts `from the cloth fabric material. In use the fabric is ordinarly laid on a large flat surface such as a table top and the different pieces of the pattern are correctly positioned thereon relative to the weave and size of the material according to directions which accompany the pattern. When properly positioned, the pattern is pinned to the fabric with common straight pins to secure it in place during the cutting and marking operations. Pinning, however, is not an altogether simple or satisfactory method. Not only is it a time-consuming operation, but the fabric, with the pattern lying thereon is not easy, convenient or pleasant to handle. Besides being thin and light, the material of the pattern is not very strong and is easily ruptured and torn. l

Also, generally, patterns have a relatively hard, smooth, polished surface due to calendering in the manufacture of the paper of which they are made and they exhibit a marked crispness in contrast to the lithelike character of the fabric. Thus in handling, the pattern is inclined to slip or creep on the fabric and during pinning, bulges and wrinkles invariably occur. The operation is particularly troublesome when performed by one not skilled in dressmaking, or one who has not` acquired the knack As a result a certain amount of re-pinning is usually resorted to, to make the pattern lay at and smooth on the cloth and this in turn results in a change in the position of the pattern relative to the fabric.

Sometimes the pattern when finally pinned is actually askew and while not noticeable at the time, a mis or mis-hang of the finished garment may frequently be traced back to this error in originally securing the pattern to the cloth. Even when the operation is performed by an experienced person, the pattern nearly always has to be smoothed out over the fabric with the hands after it is pinned and this results in slight tears at some of the pins, and as stated above, some dislocation of the pattern.

Often, although the pattern is of the correct size it is necessary, in order to secure a proper t, to alter it somewhat, as byshortening or lengthening the same. For this purpose the various parts of the pattern are pinned together in the way that pieces of fabric cut therefrom would be fitted and the pattern so pinned is triedon the person or subject for which the garment or covering is being made. lshortening or lengthening is always made in the body portions of the pattern and is accomplished by folding over and pinning or by cutting and inserting additional material respectively. Insertions are made by pinning the edges of the added paper material to the adjacent edges of the pattern. This can be and frequently is an awkward and cumbersome operation requiring considerable patience and skill. Tearingof the pattern is most likely to occur and handling in general is disagreeable if not dangerous due to sticking of the pins in the fingers and hands and the possibility of consequent scratches and wounds being serious or becoming so by infection.

A dangerous habit of the dressmaker during these operations is the holding Vof a number of pins in the mouth for ready accessibility.

Among the objects of the present invention are: the avoidance of the above and other difficulties well known to those experienced in the art; the provision of a dressmakers pattern carrying adhesive means for securing the pattern to fabric or the like; the provision of a pattern that may be applied to fabric by simply laying the same thereon and, if necessary, sliding or moving the same into the exact position desired and then securing the same to the fabric by simply pressing the pattern to the fabric with the fingers at desired or predetermined designated places, the provision of a dressmakers pattern that will save much time in use, is inexpensive in manufacture and simple to use. These objects and others are accomplished by the present invention as will be apparent from the following description of the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawing wherein for purposes of illustration there are shown several forms of a single embodiment of the invention and wherein:

Figs, 1, 2, and 3 are bottom plan views of a part of a pattern showing adhesive applied directly to the pattern in three different ways.

Fig. 4 is a top plan View showing a part of a pattern applied to a piece of fabric wherein adhesive tabs are applied around the edges of the pattern.

Fig. 5` is a perspective', bottom plan view of one form of tab.

Fig. 6 is an enlarged detail View in cross section showing the use of a different form of tab for securing the pattern to fabric.

Fig. 7 is a top plan view of a fragment of a.

pattern secured to a piece of fabric. by means of, disks carrying adhesive and positioned over perforations in Ithe pattern. The disks are shown applied to both sides or facesv of the pattern so that. the pattern may beused with either face up.

Fig. 8 is an enlarged detail sectional view taken along line 8 8 of Fig. '7 looking in the direction 0f the arrows.

Fig. 9 is a top plan View of a modified form of the invention.

Fig. 10 is an enlarged detail sectional view taken along line IIl--I 0 of Figi),y and Fig. 11 is an enlarged. detailview par-tly in section of a further modied form of the invention.

Referring to the drawing wherein like numerals indicate corresponding parts` throughout Ithe several. views, I2 designates a pattern formed of the usual. thin tissue or .tissue-like paper, and the numeral I3. designatesv adhesive i or securing the pattern to fabric or the like, designated by the' numeral. I4. Theadhesive. may be of the dextrin or postage stamp type requiring slight moistening` as with the. wetted finger or itv advantageousl'ymay be of` the non-drying, pressure sensitive type commonly used on the product known as, Scotchtape manufactured by the Minnesota Mining. and Manufacturing Company of St. Paul, Minnesota. Advantageously, the adhesive used is relatively weak, i. e. it should not be. so strong that the. bond it forms with the fabric causes tearing of the pattern when. the. pattern is. removed by simply peeling it away from the fabric. Weakened vadhesives of the type. referred to are. se-

cured by simply diluting .the adhesives, of the usual strength. or. by incorporating -or adding to. them inert fillers. y

Referring more specifically to Figs. 1. 2 and 3 the adhesive I3 is shown applied at designated places directly to the pattern. For this purpose .Y

the material of the pattern may be treated or coated to prevent the adhesive from penetrating through the pattern to the opposite side. If desiredv the adhesive may be applied to both sides of the` pattern as where the pattern is first used with one face next to the fabric to mark or cut out a right-hand design and then simply turnedv over to mark out a left-hand design. In this case,

however, .the location of the adhesive on one side. of the pattern should be staggered relative to the .7,

sive are. best determined by the location andr number-of pins. that wouldV be necessary or desirable if. the pattern were. .to be pinned. to the fabric. In. Fig. 2 the adhesive is shown applied,

in the form of parallel, diagonal stripes which form may be desirable from a manufacturing standpoint because of its independency from the shape of the pattern itself. The paper from which the pattern is out may be provided in advance with these parallel diagonal stripes of adhesive. In Fig. 3, the adhesive is shown applied as a continuous marginal border about the periphery of the pattern. For small pieces of pattern this form i'ssorn'eti'mes desirable.

Fig. 4 shows a modied form of the invention in which the pattern is provided with .tabs I5 which extend beyond the edges of .the pattern and carry the adhesive I3 for securing the pattern to the fabric. For .this purpose the tabs, which are preferably made of stronger, heavier weight material than the pattern, are advantageouslysecured to the pattern with a stronger adhesive than adhesive I3, so that when once aiiixed to the pattern .they may be considered to be permanently secured thereto as far as. their separation therefrom is concerned. Sometimes, however, it is. desirable to furnish the tabs separate from the pattern so that they may be secured :at Ithe will and discretion of the user of the pattern. In this case the .adhesive securing the tabv to the pattern can be even weaker than the adhesive portion of the tab used to secure the tab to the fabric. A bottom view of such a tab is. shown in perspective in Fig. 5, the strong adhesive-bearing portion being designatedv by the numeral I6 and Ithe weaker adhesive-bearing portionv by the4 number I3.

Fig. 6- shows a construction similar lto Fig. 4 with the exception that the tabs I5 are applied tothe underside of the body of the pattern inside the peripherial edges, il e. they do not extend beyond the edges of the pattern. For thispurpose. the tabs are coated on the sideneXt to the pattern withA strong adhesive and on the side. next` to the fabricv with weak adhesive.

In, the embodiments of the invention so far particularly described it is necessaryin order that the. pattern may befolded upon itself for packaging and distribution without the use of a slip sheet, Ithat the adhesive I3 be of. insufficientv strength tov cause tearing of the pattern'. due to. ther folded portions. sticking.- together when. the pattern. is unfolded., To a` limited extent.. the strength. of the adhesive. may be, made greater thev less. adhesive surface.. presented, .as where small. dots of. adhesive are used in place. of. wide bands or stripes.

In Figs. 7 to 11 inclusive,v there are shown several. modifications of the, invention in which the application of the adhesive to the pattern is such that in normal folding` and handling,v the adhesivedoesv not come in contactA with adjacent or opposite folded portions of the pattern.

In Fig. 7 the pattern is. perforated'` as shown at I1. and small discs I`8` provided with adhesive on one side are secured to opposite faces of the. pattern over the perforations so. as lto expose. through the perforations inthe pattern, the adhesive I3 on the underside of the discs. The pattern thus constructed may be. secured tc-the fabric -or dress material with either face down by applying iinger-tip pressure to the discs. on the. upper side of the pattern over the. perforations.. The discs so pressed are deformedslightly to bring. the. adhesive incontact with the fabricas shown inFig. 8.

Instead. of circular perforations V shaped. notches, I 9 may beA cutin the edges of the. pattern Y and rectangular tabs 20 applied thereover in: a.

like manner to the application of the discs just described.

In the modification shown in Fig. 11, the material of the pattern is embossed as at 2|, at suitable points and the bottom of the hollow portions so provided, supplied with adhesive. Here again the pattern is secured to the fabric by applying a slight finger-tip pressure to the embossed portions as shown to temporarily iiatten them and bring the adhesive in contact with the fabric. If desired, the material of the pattern may be reinforced at the embossed portions.

The modifications shown in Figs. 7 to 11 inclusive are particularly useful when the adhesive employed is of the non-drying pressure sensitive type. This is because, with the constructions shown, there is little or no sticking of the pattern to itself when folded and the pattern may be packaged and sold Without a slip sheet.

When non-drying pressure sensitive adhesive is used in the modifications shown in Figs. 1 to 6 inclusive, it is preferably of weak strength as heretofore described to prevent tearing of the pattern during the operation of unfolding immediately prior to use. Sometimes it is desirable to use a Weak dextrine postage stamp type dry adhesive. In this case a simple wetting of the adhesive with the finger at a few places during application of the pattern to the fabric is all that is required to secure a sufficient bond. The unwetted spots or portions may then serve for a second application of the pattern in cases where it is desired to use the pattern over again.

Of the large number of known adhesive compositions, both of the drying and non-drying pressure sensitive types, the best for the present purposes are those that do not stain or come off on the fabric. In any event, the adhesive used should be soluble in a common dry-cleaner solvent or in water so that should a small quantity of adhesive remain on the fabric after use of the pattern it may be easily and quickly removed with one or the other, depending upon the nature of the adhesive and the fabric.

The adhesiveness or bonding strength of the adhesive used may, of course, be adjusted by the addition of a diluent or inert filler to the adhesive but, as stated above, bondage may also be controlled to a limited extent by area of the adhesive surfaces. the stripes may be simply thin, narrow lines or the perforations in the pattern or spots of adhesive on the pattern may be small in-area or simply small dots respectively.

The bondage strength of the adhesive need be little more than that necessary to support the weight of the pattern to the fabric, and it should not be so great as to prevent removal of the pattern from the fabric without tearing the pattern if it is desired to use the pattern a second time. With some fabrics the minute amount of fuzz which sticks to the adhesive When the pattern is removed is greater than with other fabrics but in no case has the loss of fuzz been detectable in the appearance of the fabric. Also in no case has the minute amountof fuzz picked up by the adhesive sufiiciently deadened its adhesiveness so that it could not be used again.

The pattern herein provided is extremely simple and easy to use and is a great time saver. Its use eliminates the drudgery of pinning and enables much more accurate marking, cutting, fitting and sewing of the fabric. These improve- Thus for a strong adhesive,

ments are all reflected in the appearance and quality of the finished garment which ordinarily can be no better than the pattern from which it is made.

What I claim is:

1. As a marketable commodity a dressmakers pattern formed of thin tissue paper provided with perforations at points suitable for attachment of the pattern in operative position on fabric, and adhesive means carried by the pattern over said perforations for securing the pattern to fabric by adhesive engagement with the fabric through the Derforations.

2. As a marketable commodity a dressmakers pattern formed of thin tissue-like paper provided with cut-out portions, means adhesively secured to said pattern over said cut-out portions, and

adhesive on said means in said cut-out portions for securing the pattern to fabric.

3. As a marketable commodity a dressmakers pattern formed of thin tissue-like paper, embossed portions provided in the surface of said pattern and non-drying pressure sensitive adhesive carried by said pattern in the hollow of said embossed portions for securing the same to fabric.

4. As a marketable commodity, the combination of a dressmakers pattern formed of thin tissue-like paper and non-drying pressure sensitive adhesive means secured to said tissue-like paper pattern at localities where pins are normally used, at least portions of said adhesive being exposed and operative to removably and repeatedly secure the pattern to fabric dress material.

5. As a marketable commodity, a dressmakers pattern formed of thin tissue paper provided with perforations at points suitable for attachment of the pattern in operative position on fabric, and non-drying, pressure sensitive adhesive means carried by the pattern over said perforations for securing the pattern to fabric by adhesive engagement with the fabric through the perforations.

6. As a marketable commodity, a dressmakers pattern formed 0f thin tissue-like paper, adhesive means xedly carried by said pattern and offset therefrom above and out of the plane of the lower surface of the pattern which contacts the fabric for temporarily securing the pattern to the fabric, said adhesive means being distortable by application of light pressure into contact with the fabric.

7. As a marketable commodity a dressmakers pattern formed of thin tissue-like paper provided With cut-out portions, means secured to said pattern over said cut-out portions and offset above and out of the plane of the lower surface of the pattern which contacts the fabric, said means having adhesive properties and being distortable by applications of light pressure into contact With the fabric to temporarily attach the pattern to the fabric.

8. As a marketable commodity, a dressmakers pattern formed of thin tissue-like paper and provided With a substantially weak non-drying pressure sensitive adhesive distributed polka dot fashion over the face of the pattern that lays next to the fabric when the pattern is in use, the size and number of said polka dot of adhesive and their distribution being coordinated with the strength of the adhesive to provide for ready removability of the pattern from the fabric without tearing.

MARIAN W. MAcNAB.

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