US2398623A

US2398623A - Shoe

Info

Publication number: US2398623A
Application number: US443554A
Authority: US
Inventors: Claude H Daniels
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1942-05-19
Filing date: 1942-05-19
Publication date: 1946-04-16
Anticipated expiration: 1963-04-16

Description

. April 16,v 1946. c. H. DANIELS SHOE Filed May 19, 1942 2 Sheetsh-s'heet 1 OO.' 000.9: 0000006. u

April 16, 1946.

C.y H pANlELs SHOE 2 Sheets-Sheet 2' Filed May 19, 1942 o ooooooo/ 00000009 \00ooooo/' odo coco o/ ooooooooo, A .0000000000:0 6 WM .ooo0oooooo. 6 .oooooo.. .0. .oomk ooonwnwnw oooboo 000000 OO O 6. 5 @ooo 6 .o afm M f M Patented Apr. 16, 1946 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE SHOE g Claude H. Daniels, Greenwich, `Conn. Application May 19, 1942, Serial No. 443,554 Y 4 Claims. (Cl. lz-lii) This invention relates to improvements in shoes and more particularly to improvements in the'cuttingand assembling of the parts of a shoe upper. Y f

In the manufacture -of various types of shoes it is customary practice to cut the upper leather.

stock in more than one piece. 'I'his method is advantageous, because it is more economical to cut smaller pieces rather than large pieces from the leather skins, and where the upper is made of parts of contrasting colors the parts must be cut separately. The liningiis usually cut in pieces conforming in shape to the pieces `of the upper.

In the manufacture of ventilated or perforated shoes Where the perforating is carried out over the entire area of the upper, the parts of the upper are usually assembled and secured together in the at so that the flat upper or upper part may be passed through the perforating machine. In cer-tain styles of shoes it is desired to have the perforations extend over the entire area of certain parts of the upper While other parts of the upper are left unperforated. For example, it may .be desired that the saddle portion, the toe cap or the mudguard be left unperforated while the remainder of the upper is perforated over its entire'area. This usually requires making the upper and lining in separate parts Which must be stitched or otherwise secured together after certain parts have been perforated .over their entire areas. When the .lining is made in more than one piece the edges are usually lapped and seamed together. Y

An object of the present invention is to eliminate the lapped seams of the lining-on the inside of the vshoe and thereby make the shoe more comiortable to the foot by cutting the lining for the shoe upper or a portion of the area of the upper in one piece while the outer layer of the shoe upper which covers the same area .is cut in vmore than one piece.

It is further an object of my invention to make a shoe upper by cutting a lining piece, cementing certain ,parts of the outer layer on the lining piece in the at `leaving exposed and uncovered Vcertain portions vof' the .lining piece and thereafter, after perforating if desired the partially assembled upper in the iiat, attaching 'other parts of the outer layer to cover the exposed portion of the vlining piece, lsaid parts being lsecured to the marginal edges o'f the vcemented parts.

Further objects and advantages of my improvements will be more readily apparent 'from the. following description of preferred embodi- 55 i0 Onlyfone edeoithe upper.;

mentsof my invention as disclosed in the attached drawingain which:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a shoe of the saddle type;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of a shoe of the mud-guard type;

Fig. 3v is a plan view of the assembled `upper for the shoe shown in Fig. 1; 4 Y

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary plan view, partially in broken section, showing the upper ci Fig. 3 before the saddle is applied;

Fig. 5 is a plan viewl :of the assembled-upper for the shoe vdisclosed `in Fig. 2 `withgpartof the mud-guardbroken away .and theV binding applied Fie. 6leavingw, simi1ar-to,Fig. 5 but Ashowing a modiglil:atio n;V i,

Fig. 7 is a Vsectional View taken on'the plane indicated 1-1 in Fig. 3; Fig. 8 is a sectional view taken on the plane indicated 8--8 in Fig. 3;

Fig. 9 is a sectional view taken on the plane indicated 9-9 in Fig. 3;

Fig. .10 is a sectional view taken on the plane indicated 'ID-l 0 in Fig. 5;

Fig. l11 is a sectional view taken on the plane indicated] I-Ii inEig; A Fig, 12 is a sectional view taken on the plane indicated l 2--1 2 'in Fig. 6; and

'Fig 13 is a sectional View taken on `the plane indicated l3-l3 inFig. 6.

` The shoe of Fig. 1 includes the forepart lll, rthe saddle l2 and the quarter 14. In making this vshoe the upper lining lB` is cut to the shape disclosed in Fig-j. 'It is customary to apply a toe `stiifener IB'and a counter stiffener which, in the present example, is made in separate pieces 20. These'stiffener parts I8 .and 20 may be cemented tothe top side of the lining I6 in the proper position. If desired the lining could be cut off at the toe 'and the toe stiliener stitched thereto. TheforepartZZ vof theouter layer of the shoe upper is cut 'to the shape indicated in Fig. 4 and is cemented 'in position as shown. The forepart 22 extends `rearwardly beyond 'the toe stiffener. The separate parts 2l `of 'the quarter ,I4 are cut 'fromv upper leather stock and cemented in position 'as shown 'in Fig- 4. These quarter parts 24 extend forwardly beyond the counter stiiiener pieces 20. It will be noted `from Fig. 4 that the iorepart '22 and the 'quarter parts 24 whencemented 'in position are spaced apart with respect to each vother leaving an exposed area of the lining Ivvhich must "be covered by applying the sad- 'die L U v The parts of the upper before the saddle is applied are flat and, if desired, the iiat vamp may be perforated over its entire area as indicated by the perforations 26. The perforations extend through three layers at the toe, the outer layer 22, the toe stiffener I8, and the lining I6. Immediately at the rear of the toe stitfener the perforations extend through the two layers of the outer layer 22 and the lining I6. The lining I6 only would be perforated in theV space between the

parts

22 and 24... At the quarterarea the perforations extend through the three layers of the guard strips are not adhesively secured to the lining layer.

The upper blank disclosed in Fig. 6 is somewhat similar to the blank of Fig. 5 except that the vamp is cut separately from the quarter and the mud-guard does not extend through the quarter area of the shoe. The lining 68 is cut the same as the lining 54 in Fig. 5. The outer layer is cut in three separate pieces comprising the vamp 'I0 and the separate quarter sections 12. Suitable quarter stiie'ner .sectionsfanda toe stitfener may quarter section 24, the counter stiiener and the lining I6.

After perforating the vamp, or without perfo-I4 rating if perforations are not desired, the saddle I 2 is then applied. The saddle is cut to the shape indicated in Fig. 3 and is placed in position so as to overlap the marginal edges of the forepart 22 and the quarter parts 24. The saddle is then stitched in position by the line of stitching 28 which passes through the lthree layers of the marginal edge of the saddleV I2, the marginal edge of the forepart 22 and the lining I6; and the lineof stitching 30 which passes through the rear marginal edge of the saddle I2, the forward marginal edges of the quarter section 24 and through the lining layer I6. The saddle is not adhesively secured to the lining I6..

As shown in Fig. 7, the rear marginal edge 32 of the layer 22 is skived to a'. thin edge while thc forward marginal edges of thequarter section 24 and counter section 20 aresirnilarly skived to thin edges as indicated at v34 and 36 in Fig. V'1.

The upper is closed byebringing'togetherthe rear edges 38 of the quarter sections of the Vvamp and applying the back-stay 40. The binding 42 may then be applied over the top edges of the quarter I4 and secured by a line of stitching 44 as shown in Fig. 8. This line of stitching passes through the marginal edge of the quarter section 24, the skived edge of the counter 20 and the marginal edge of the lining I6. y

By this method of construction the shoe has a smooth continuous lining which is preferable to the usual method of construction in which the lining is made in several parts with lapped seams. Further, if it is desired to have thejshoe perforated as shown in Fig. 1, it is' much more convenient to carry out the perforating of the forepart and quarter while 'they are attached together rather than in separatevpieces.

The shoe displayed in Fig. 2 isrof the mudguard type and ismade with a continuous lining similar to the shoe in Fig. 1. In Fig. 2 the upper" generally is indicated and the mud-guard around the bottom of the upper is indicated 52. Fig. 5 illustrates the manner of making the upper for the shoe of Fig. 2. The lining 54 is made of one piece cutas shown in Fig. 5. The outer layer k' 55 of the upper is'rcut smaller thanthe lining 54. The customary counter stiffener sections 58 and a toe stiffener 60 may be cemented in position between the lining 54 and 'the outer layer 56..V The

layers

54 and 56 are otherwise adhesively secured to each other throughouttheir contacting surlfaces. vIf itis desired to make a ventilated shoe,

Ytheiiat upper blank may then 'be perforated be applied in the same manner as in Fig. 5. Be-

' fore applying the outer layer pieces I0 and '12, it

is preferred to secure the parts together after the edges have been brought into abutment such as bythe zig-zag stitching 14. This will insure that the quarter portions will be in the correct position with respect to the vamp when the stitched together pieces are laid upon and cemented to the lining. I'he flat upper blank may then be perforated if desired before applying the mudguardy strip 'I6 which is stitched to the marginal edge of the vamp 'I0 by the line of stitching '18. The abutting edges of the vamp 'I0 and quarter section I2 and the stitching 'I4 are covered by suitable stay' strips 80. y n

In all the uppersdisclosed the lining is in one piece while the outer layer of upper leather stock covering the lining piece is made in several parts, and if the shoe is perforated the -perforations do not extend through certain parts of the outer layer which are stitched in position after perforating the iiat cemented layers of thek partially Although I have shown the lining for the entire shoevamp cut in one piece, it should be understood that certain advantages of my improvements will result if the lining is'cut in more than one piece provided that the piecesof lining are less in number than the pieces of the upper leather stock which cover the-lining. For example, the upper could be cut in separate vamp and quarter sections, the lining for the vamp section being inone piece while the upper leather stock which covers the vamp liningv is cut in several pieces.

I claim:

l.' In a method 'of making an upper for a shoe in which only a portion of the upper varea is perforated, the steps which consist in cutting a 50 lining layer in one piece, adhesively securing to throughout its entire area as indicated by the Derforations 62 in Fig. 5. The upper may then be i'lnished by applying themud-guard -strips 64 which are laid over the exposed margin of the lining 54 and overlap the marginal edge of .the

Vouter layer 56. These strips'64 may be secured in position by the une of stitching es. The mua- 7 said lining layer in the at sections ofruppei leather Vstock so as to cover only a portion of the lining area, then perforating the adhesively securedrlayers'of the lining and the upper leather sections overv the entire area thereof, then placing a piece of unperforated upper leather stock in position to cover the portion of the lining area which is not covered by the perforated upper leather. stockv sections, said piece of upper leather overlapping marginal edges of the upper leather stock sections, and stitching said piece of -unperforated upper leather stock in position.

2. In a method of making a mud-guard type of yshoe in which the upper ofthe shoe is perforated over its entirearea except for the mud-guard, the steps which consist in cutting a one-piece lining layer, cutting upper leather stock to-form the parts of theA outer layer with the forepart oi said outer layer narrower in width than the forepart of thelining layer,` adhesively'securing said outer layer to the lining layer inthe flat whereby a marginal portion of said lining layer at the forepart will remain uncoveredv by said outer layer, perforatingl said assembled lining and outer layers in the flat over the entire area and then attaching a mud-guard strip by stitching the mud-guard strip to the marginal edge of the forepart of the outer layer and to the lining layer whereby said mud-guard strip covers the perforations in the marginal portion of said lining layer.

3. In the method of making a saddle type shoe which is ventilated in the toe and quarter sections but not in the saddle portion, the steps which include cutting out a one-piece lining and securing to the lining suitable toe and quarter stiffenei sections, a forepart section and quarter sections While leaving exposed portions of the lining intermediate the forepart and quarter sections, then perforating the assembly throughout the entire area while in the at, and finally securing an unperforated saddle piece in position over the exposed perforated area of the lining, the saddle piece being arranged to overlap the opposed marginal edges of the forepart and quarter sections.

- 4.4 In the method of making a complete shoe upper which is only partly ventilated the steps which consist in, cutting out a one-piece lining, securing to the lining a partial outer layer of upper leather stock while leaving exposed part of the area of the lining, then perforating the assembly throughout the entire area while in the flat and nally securing an imperforate piece of upper leather stock in position over the exposed perforated area of the lining, said piece being arranged to overlap the adjoining marginal edge portions of the perforate outer layer.

CLAUDE H. DANEIS.