US2365532A - Dress pattern - Google Patents

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US2365532A
US2365532A US447812A US44781242A US2365532A US 2365532 A US2365532 A US 2365532A US 447812 A US447812 A US 447812A US 44781242 A US44781242 A US 44781242A US 2365532 A US2365532 A US 2365532A
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pattern
dress
edges
sector
basted
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US447812A
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Charlotte M Dunn
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth

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  • This invention relates to dressmaking and has for its principal objects the provision of a fundamental or basic or main pattern which is adapted to be utilized for making dresses in a variety of entirely different styles, as well as the method of utilizing such pattern in dressmaking in order to produce such different styles of dresses. Further objects of the invention are the very substantial saving of labor and material in the production of such dresses. Other objects of the inventio will hereinafter appear.
  • Figure 1 is a diagrammatic front elevation of a coat or so-called coat dress
  • Fig. 2 is a diagrammatic rear elevation of a coat or so-called coat dress
  • Fig. 3 is a plan view of the fundamental pattern employed in the production of such dress
  • Figs. 4, 5 and 6 are plan views of incidental patterns employed respectively for the sleeves, the bodice and the upper back panel of such socalled dress;
  • Fig. 7 is a diagrammatic front elevation
  • Fig. 8 is a rear elevation of a different style of dress
  • Fig. 9 is a plan view of the fundamental pattern employed in making such dress and Figs. 10, 11 and 12 are plan views respectively of incidental patterns employed in the making of the sleeves, bodice and the back panel of such dress.
  • Fig. 13 is a diagrammatic front elevation and Fig. 14 is a diagrammatic rear elevation of another style of dress;
  • Fig. 15 is a plan view of the fundamental pattern used in making such dress and Figs. 16 and 17 are plan views respectively of the pattern employed for making the front and rear of each sleeve for such dress; and Fig. 18 is a plan view of the rectangular insert for making the front insert of such dress;
  • Fig. 19 is a diagrammatic front elevation
  • Fig. 20 is a rear elevation of still another style of dress
  • Fig. 21 is a plan'view of the fundamental pattern employed in making such dress
  • Fig. 22 is a plan view of the pattern employed for making the waist of such dress and Fig. 23 is a plan view of the pattern used in making the sleeve for such dress.
  • the funamental pattern A is placed on the right side of the material selected, for example woolen cloth 54 inches wide in such a manner that the edges 0, a extend respectively parallel to the warp and weft fibres of the material.
  • the superimposed pattern and material are then out along the slit line b which extends inwardly from the apex along a central radial line to a distance more than one-third the radius of said pattern, the same terminating in the neighborhood of the waist line, and also are cut along the curvilinear lines 0, c and d, d while the cloth only is out along the balance of the perimeter or outline of the pattern and thereby the cloth sector I having yoke elements 2, 2' is obtained.
  • Sleeves 3, 3, opposing bodice members 4, 4' and the back panelj are then cut from such material to conform to the other three patterns B, C and D.
  • the cloth sector I is then draped about the body of the person to be fitted or about a selected dress form with the slit line b at the center of the back and the edges a, a are basted together to form a front center seam.
  • the yoke members 2, 2' are then spread apart at the slit line and brought up over the back and carried around the neck of such person or dress form and the respective free ends thereof, after first being desirably turned under, are also basted together to form a yoke.
  • the bodice members 4, 4' which are identical, being made from the same pattern, are then applied in position on the dress front with their edges e vertical and such members are then basted along their edges 1 and g respectively to the yokes and to the sector I.
  • the back panel 5 is inserted and its edges h, h are basted to the respective abutting edges of the yoke members 2, 2'.
  • the edges of the sleeves, that correspond to the edges 1. 7" of the sleeve pattern B, are then basted together and the sleeves are inserted in position in the armholes and each basted along its its edge, that corresponds to the edge k of the latter pattern, to the edges m and c, or c of the bodice members and sector I.
  • the edges, that correspond to the edges a, a of the pattern A, of the sector I are turned under and secured with blind stitches, suitable clasps or other means as buttons or a zipper that may be provided for fastening the edges of the coat together. If, however, the garment shown in Fig. 1 is intended for use as a dress then said edges that correspond to the edges a, a are not turned under but are merely stitched together to form an ordinary seam.
  • the fundamental 90 sector pattern E is placed on the selected material, desirably of 54" width in the same position as was the pattern A when making the dress shown in Fig. 1.
  • the material is then out along the slit line b and along the perimeter of the pattern and thereby a cloth sector It is obtained conforming to the pattern E and having bifurcations H, H on opposite sides of the slit line b.
  • a sector pattern of but 45 is employed and two cloth sectors are cut to conform thereto and stitched together but leaving slit line b open along part of the seam.
  • Two combined front-sleeve-and-bodice members l2, l2, two back sleeve members l3, l3 and a center back insert l4 are then cut from such material to conform to the other three patterns F, G and H, respectively.
  • the sector it, with its slit line b' at the center front, is then draped about the body to be fitted and the edges n, n are basted together to form a back center seam.
  • the bifurcations ii, I I are then passed under the arms, up the back and brought across the front of the neck to form a yoke, the tips of said bifurcations being turned over and overlapped with respect to each other and then basted together.
  • the center back insert i4 is then inserted between the divergent bifurcations and its edges h and h are basted thereto along the respective abutting edges of such bifurcations.
  • the fundamental pattern comprises a 45 sector K which is employed as hereinafter explained to produce two cloth sectors of the selected material.
  • the latter is placed on the selected material which is desirably 39" in width in such a position that the central radius will be in alignment with the warp or so-called straight of the material and consequently the opposing edges 1', 1' will extend along the bias of the material.
  • Duplicate cloth sections l5 are then made from this pattern by cutting the material along the line corresponding to the arcuate bottom of the pattern, the center front and center back lines 8, s', the neck lines t, t and center slit line u.
  • Front and back sleeve members l6, l6, two of each and a center front insert ll are then cut from such material to conform to the patterns L, L and M respectively.
  • the two sectors l5 are then draped about the body to be fitted so that'the two slit lines in will lie at the sides along the respective hip lines and when so positioned, the sectors are basted together along the front and back center seam lines s, s.
  • the bifurcation l8 of one sector and I8 of the other are carried up over the front of the body while the other bifurcation l8 and i8 of the same sectors are carried up over the back.
  • the sleeve members l6, it, after being assembled with their corresponding edges abutting each other, are permanently stitched together to form a complete'sleeve and are then inserted in position and the edges 2) and w are basted to the edges of the spaced bifurcations l 8, l8.
  • the sleeves are basted to abutting edges of the bifurcations while the abutting edges 2; and w are basted together.
  • the shoulder straps i9, it are brought across the shoulder and basted together at the shoulder line.
  • the front piece I! is basted to the center front of the garment.
  • a sector pattern is preferably employed if the dress material is without nap or without a irreversible pattern but otherwise it is desirable to employe a 45 sector pattern and in the latter case duplicate cloth sectors are cut and joined together'except along the portion thereof corresponding to the slit line of the pattern N.
  • Whichever pattern is employed, whether a. 90 or 45 sector, the edge a: should be placed parallel to the warp or so-called straight of the materiaL' When a 90 sector pattern is employed, such as shown in Fig.
  • the cloth sector 20 is formed therefrom by cutting the material along lines corresponding to the bottom of the pattern, the irregular marginal pattern outline a:, x, the shoulder lines 1 y and slit line z, which latter as shown extends on the bias.
  • are then cut from the material to conform to the pattern outline of the pattern 0 which, as shown, make provision for the arm hOle 0 and the neck line O
  • Two sleeve members 22 corresponding to the pattern P are also cut from the cloth and these are permanently stitched together along their lateral edges.
  • the cloth sector 20 so prepared is draped about the body to be fitted in such a manner that the slit line 2 is disposed so as to extend upwardly along the right hip line.
  • the bifurcation of sector 29 that corresponds to bifurcation 21 of the pattern N is passed around the back up to the left shoulder and the bifurcation of sector 20 corresponding to the bifurcation 21 is passed upwardly across the chest to the left shoulder and then the bifurcations of the sector 20 are basted together at the shoulder line and the edges of the sector 20, corresponding to the straight portions of the pattern outlines :r, :r', are basted together.
  • is then applied to the body in such a manner that the armhole O thereof fits beneath the arm pit of the body being fitted and the front half extends upwardly across the chest and across the left shoulder while the other half thereof extends upwardly across the back with the scarf end thereof overlapping the scarf of the other end of such member 2i.
  • the said combined bodice and scarf member is then basted in position to the adjoining members while the scarf ends are joined together at the shoulder line.
  • a fundamental garment pattern for use in making a variety of garments of diflerent styles comprising a geometrical sector of sheet material having an arcuate bottom edge, a central radial slit-line displayed thereon and extending inwardly from the apex of said sector to a distance approximating the distance of the waist line of the desired garment from the bottom of such garment.
  • a fundamental garment pattern for use in making a variety of garments of different styles comprising a geometrical sector of sheet material having a central radial slit-line displayed thereon extending inwardly from the apex of the sector a distance approximating the distance of the waist line of the garment desired from the bottom of such garment and said pattern having also displayed thereon symmetrical rectilineal lines extending outwardly from the top of said slit-line and similar curvilineal opposed lines on either sid of said slit-line and other curvilineal lines similar to each other extending inwardly from the lateral edges of each said sector adjacent the top thereof.

Description

0. M. DUNN DRESS PATTERN Dec. 39, 19.
' 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed June 20, 1942 I INVENTOR.- CHARLOTTE/"DUNN Dec. 19,, 1944. v c. M. DUNN 2,365,532
DRESS PATTERN Filed June 20, 1942 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTORf CHARLOTTE Mflwwv C. M. DUNN DRESS PATTERN Dec. 19, 1944.
4 Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed June 20, 1942 INVENTOR.
CHARLOTTE M. DUNN BY M N N u D M c DRESS PATTERN 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Filed June 20, 1942 INVENTOR.
CHARLOTTE M. Du/v/v BY M Patented Dec. 19, 1944 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE DRESS PATTERN Charlotte M. Dunn, Great Neck, N. Y.
Application June 20, 1942, Serial No. 447,812
7 3 Claims. (on. 33-42) This invention relates to dressmaking and has for its principal objects the provision of a fundamental or basic or main pattern which is adapted to be utilized for making dresses in a variety of entirely different styles, as well as the method of utilizing such pattern in dressmaking in order to produce such different styles of dresses. Further objects of the invention are the very substantial saving of labor and material in the production of such dresses. Other objects of the inventio will hereinafter appear.
In the accompanying drawings, in which I have illustrated my improved pattern and different styles of dresses producible therewith,
Figure 1 is a diagrammatic front elevation of a coat or so-called coat dress; and Fig. 2 is a diagrammatic rear elevation of a coat or so-called coat dress;
Fig. 3 is a plan view of the fundamental pattern employed in the production of such dress;
Figs. 4, 5 and 6 are plan views of incidental patterns employed respectively for the sleeves, the bodice and the upper back panel of such socalled dress;
Fig. 7 is a diagrammatic front elevation; and Fig. 8 is a rear elevation of a different style of dress;
Fig. 9 is a plan view of the fundamental pattern employed in making such dress and Figs. 10, 11 and 12 are plan views respectively of incidental patterns employed in the making of the sleeves, bodice and the back panel of such dress.
Fig. 13 is a diagrammatic front elevation and Fig. 14 is a diagrammatic rear elevation of another style of dress;
Fig. 15 is a plan view of the fundamental pattern used in making such dress and Figs. 16 and 17 are plan views respectively of the pattern employed for making the front and rear of each sleeve for such dress; and Fig. 18 is a plan view of the rectangular insert for making the front insert of such dress;
Fig. 19 is a diagrammatic front elevation; and Fig. 20 is a rear elevation of still another style of dress;
Fig. 21 is a plan'view of the fundamental pattern employed in making such dress;
Fig. 22 is a plan view of the pattern employed for making the waist of such dress and Fig. 23 is a plan view of the pattern used in making the sleeve for such dress. a
In the production of the dress shown in Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings, the funamental pattern A is placed on the right side of the material selected, for example woolen cloth 54 inches wide in such a manner that the edges 0, a extend respectively parallel to the warp and weft fibres of the material. The superimposed pattern and material are then out along the slit line b which extends inwardly from the apex along a central radial line to a distance more than one-third the radius of said pattern, the same terminating in the neighborhood of the waist line, and also are cut along the curvilinear lines 0, c and d, d while the cloth only is out along the balance of the perimeter or outline of the pattern and thereby the cloth sector I having yoke elements 2, 2' is obtained. Sleeves 3, 3, opposing bodice members 4, 4' and the back panelj are then cut from such material to conform to the other three patterns B, C and D.
The cloth sector I is then draped about the body of the person to be fitted or about a selected dress form with the slit line b at the center of the back and the edges a, a are basted together to form a front center seam. The yoke members 2, 2' are then spread apart at the slit line and brought up over the back and carried around the neck of such person or dress form and the respective free ends thereof, after first being desirably turned under, are also basted together to form a yoke. The bodice members 4, 4', which are identical, being made from the same pattern, are then applied in position on the dress front with their edges e vertical and such members are then basted along their edges 1 and g respectively to the yokes and to the sector I. Then the back panel 5 is inserted and its edges h, h are basted to the respective abutting edges of the yoke members 2, 2'. The edges of the sleeves, that correspond to the edges 1. 7" of the sleeve pattern B, are then basted together and the sleeves are inserted in position in the armholes and each basted along its its edge, that corresponds to the edge k of the latter pattern, to the edges m and c, or c of the bodice members and sector I.
After the garment so draped and fitted on the person or form has been adjusted, as desired, the edges thereof which have been so basted are stitched together and the bastings removed in the well known manner.
-If the garment shown in Fig. 1 is intended for a coat, the edges, that correspond to the edges a, a of the pattern A, of the sector I are turned under and secured with blind stitches, suitable clasps or other means as buttons or a zipper that may be provided for fastening the edges of the coat together. If, however, the garment shown in Fig. 1 is intended for use as a dress then said edges that correspond to the edges a, a are not turned under but are merely stitched together to form an ordinary seam.
To make the dress shown in Figs. 7 and 8, the fundamental 90 sector pattern E is placed on the selected material, desirably of 54" width in the same position as was the pattern A when making the dress shown in Fig. 1. The material is then out along the slit line b and along the perimeter of the pattern and thereby a cloth sector It is obtained conforming to the pattern E and having bifurcations H, H on opposite sides of the slit line b. Should the material be but 39" wide, then in lieu of using a 90 sector pattern, a sector pattern of but 45 is employed and two cloth sectors are cut to conform thereto and stitched together but leaving slit line b open along part of the seam.
Two combined front-sleeve-and-bodice members l2, l2, two back sleeve members l3, l3 and a center back insert l4 are then cut from such material to conform to the other three patterns F, G and H, respectively.
The sector it, with its slit line b' at the center front, is then draped about the body to be fitted and the edges n, n are basted together to form a back center seam. The bifurcations ii, I I are then passed under the arms, up the back and brought across the front of the neck to form a yoke, the tips of said bifurcations being turned over and overlapped with respect to each other and then basted together.
The back sleeve members l3, it are assembled with their respective front-sleeve-and-bodice members l2, I2 to form the finished sleeve the abutting edges that correspond to the edges of the patterns F and G, that are designated i, 7 and 7' and 9, being stitched together and then the sleeve and bodice members are positioned on the body to be-fitted with their abutting front edges extending vertically, whereupon the bodice members are basted along their edges p and q to the yoke and to the inner edges of the bifurcations ll, ll. The center back insert i4 is then inserted between the divergent bifurcations and its edges h and h are basted thereto along the respective abutting edges of such bifurcations.
I the dress construction shown in Figs. 13 and 14, the fundamental pattern comprises a 45 sector K which is employed as hereinafter explained to produce two cloth sectors of the selected material.
In making a dress from the pattern K, the latter is placed on the selected material which is desirably 39" in width in such a position that the central radius will be in alignment with the warp or so-called straight of the material and consequently the opposing edges 1', 1' will extend along the bias of the material. Duplicate cloth sections l5 are then made from this pattern by cutting the material along the line corresponding to the arcuate bottom of the pattern, the center front and center back lines 8, s', the neck lines t, t and center slit line u. Front and back sleeve members l6, l6, two of each and a center front insert ll are then cut from such material to conform to the patterns L, L and M respectively.
The two sectors l5 are then draped about the body to be fitted so that'the two slit lines in will lie at the sides along the respective hip lines and when so positioned, the sectors are basted together along the front and back center seam lines s, s. The bifurcation l8 of one sector and I8 of the other are carried up over the front of the body while the other bifurcation l8 and i8 of the same sectors are carried up over the back. The sleeve members l6, it, after being assembled with their corresponding edges abutting each other, are permanently stitched together to form a complete'sleeve and are then inserted in position and the edges 2) and w are basted to the edges of the spaced bifurcations l 8, l8. The sleeves are basted to abutting edges of the bifurcations while the abutting edges 2; and w are basted together. The shoulder straps i9, it are brought across the shoulder and basted together at the shoulder line. Finally the front piece I! is basted to the center front of the garment.
To make the dress shown in Figs. 19 and 20, a sector pattern is preferably employed if the dress material is without nap or without a irreversible pattern but otherwise it is desirable to employe a 45 sector pattern and in the latter case duplicate cloth sectors are cut and joined together'except along the portion thereof corresponding to the slit line of the pattern N. Whichever pattern is employed, whether a. 90 or 45 sector, the edge a: should be placed parallel to the warp or so-called straight of the materiaL' When a 90 sector pattern is employed, such as shown in Fig. 21, the cloth sector 20 is formed therefrom by cutting the material along lines corresponding to the bottom of the pattern, the irregular marginal pattern outline a:, x, the shoulder lines 1 y and slit line z, which latter as shown extends on the bias. Combined bodice and scarf members 2| are then cut from the material to conform to the pattern outline of the pattern 0 which, as shown, make provision for the arm hOle 0 and the neck line O Two sleeve members 22 corresponding to the pattern P are also cut from the cloth and these are permanently stitched together along their lateral edges.
The cloth sector 20 so prepared is draped about the body to be fitted in such a manner that the slit line 2 is disposed so as to extend upwardly along the right hip line. The bifurcation of sector 29 that corresponds to bifurcation 21 of the pattern N, is passed around the back up to the left shoulder and the bifurcation of sector 20 corresponding to the bifurcation 21 is passed upwardly across the chest to the left shoulder and then the bifurcations of the sector 20 are basted together at the shoulder line and the edges of the sector 20, corresponding to the straight portions of the pattern outlines :r, :r', are basted together.
The combined bodice and scarf member 2| is then applied to the body in such a manner that the armhole O thereof fits beneath the arm pit of the body being fitted and the front half extends upwardly across the chest and across the left shoulder while the other half thereof extends upwardly across the back with the scarf end thereof overlapping the scarf of the other end of such member 2i. The said combined bodice and scarf member is then basted in position to the adjoining members while the scarf ends are joined together at the shoulder line.
It is, of course, to be understood that when the dress is finished the seams which have been basted together are permanently stitched and bastings removed and also the usual or desired hems are formed and stitched.
Among the advantages of th pattern, the method of dressmaking and the dress made in Having thus described my invention, what I claim is: I
1. A fundamental garment pattern for use in making a variety of garments of diflerent styles, comprising a geometrical sector of sheet material having an arcuate bottom edge, a central radial slit-line displayed thereon and extending inwardly from the apex of said sector to a distance approximating the distance of the waist line of the desired garment from the bottom of such garment.
2. A tundamental garment pattern for use in making a variety of garments 01 different styles.
comprising a'geometrical sector or sheet material having a centrai radial slit-line displayed thereon extending inwardly from the apex of the sector a distance approximating the distance of the waistline of the desired garment from the bottom of such garment and said pattern having displayed thereon symmetrical rectilineal lines fiililtending outwardly from the top of said slite. V
3. A fundamental garment pattern for use in making a variety of garments of different styles, comprising a geometrical sector of sheet material having a central radial slit-line displayed thereon extending inwardly from the apex of the sector a distance approximating the distance of the waist line of the garment desired from the bottom of such garment and said pattern having also displayed thereon symmetrical rectilineal lines extending outwardly from the top of said slit-line and similar curvilineal opposed lines on either sid of said slit-line and other curvilineal lines similar to each other extending inwardly from the lateral edges of each said sector adjacent the top thereof.
' v CHARLOTTE M. DUNN.
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