US2325215A - Fabric - Google Patents

Description

July 27, 1943. L. .1. A. AMYOT FABR I 0 Original Filed Dec. 11, 1941 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 \NVENTOR L.J.A.AMYOT July 27, 1943. L. J. A. AMYOT 2,325,215

FABRIC Original Filed Dec. 11, 1941 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 I I I I I 15 I I I I l l I I l l I I I I l I II I I 7 l I II I l I I] I I I I I I I I I I I I] I| I I I I l I lNVENTOR L-J. A-AMYOT ATTORN EYS Patented July 27, 1943 r ifiriginal application December-11,1941; Serial N6.

:b'er 11, 1941 "This invention relates to improvements in :girdles and materials tise'd in the manufacture "thereof.

The present -application is a '*dii ision of my co-pending --applic'ation se'rial -No. "422,557, filed ;v

'Dec. 11,'1941.

' One of -the principal difiicu'lties' experienced inthemanufacture of girdles ist he 'provisionof a 7 eat and comfortably fitting waist portion which possesses suificie'n't stiffness to resist permanent 'vvithrgirdles -made 'in I accordance with aiore :s'a'id priorapplication To thi'send the material used inv the fabrication -'of girdles' madedn-accordancewith the present vinvention is woven so as to fprovi'de Ia r body section, a first lip section =wovehintegr'al with-"the upper'edgeof the body section and a'secQnd lip "section WOVn integral with the aubpenedgew'f thelfirst mentioned up crimping 0r curling thereofby bending and other movements of the wearer. The best method now knownrer bverc'o'lnin'g this nime un consists'in making the upper edge ofagirdle intheform of a narrow, fiat, tubular containing-a plur'ality er short vertically extending stiffening elements spaced {around the circumference "of the garment. Various waist-stiffened girdles of this type have been broiosed and adopted biitthe present invention relates; more bartic'iilarli'r, "to improvements in waist-stiffened girdles of the type disclosed in my co pending application se- 'Iia'1N0.'395,"176, 'filed'hla-Y' 25,).1941. I Girclle'slnad'e in accordance with the invention-disclosed'in said 'app1ication"'-are 'ch'aracte'ri-zed in that the? band forming portion is woven integral with the body portion and contains stiffening elements made of cord stiffened hiece's-eftextile fa'bric,'

said band forming mention-comprising two' lip sections having their upper edges sewn together and their lower edges iwniren integral iwith the bo'dy portion :of the girdle. making the band by sewing together the upper edges of two epposl'n' lip smti'cn's has-certain manufacturing advantages :ascompared with similar waist-stiffened girdles in 'whic h :the 1001" respondi'ng ban'd is woven as a complete tube during the weaving of the body forming: portion of the girdle or material'from which =th'e girdles are to be made. On the other hand,. the fo'rmatirin'of the band .bytsewing togetheriztheup'per edges'nfthe band forming lip sections as ,dis closed in .mypri'or' application has the disadvantaize 0f presenting. an (unsightly seam 'at the extreme :upper edge of the garmentland this seam must be covered by a binding striprtoiim prove the'appearance "of the garment and to guard against'cnening cf :the seam-due to wear. The application of the binding,-"stripljincreases the bulkiness ofsthewupperiedee of the' girdIe and forms an uhc'ornfortableridge which presses .into'the'hodyofthefiwearer. i

The main'purpose' of the presentinvention is to provide an f impr'ovedjform ioi girdle-which is free of. the'l dbjectioris: noted i=inffconnection This method Of section; s ai'dmaterial bein'g woven so as to pro- =Vide "a definite fold line or a hinge connection at the junctnreof the'two lip section's.

in'g a"'gird1e made-"of this material the second lip "s'ectionds folded downwardly. along the More -said fold line or hinge-.eonnection to' a position overlying "one side; zprefer'ablfvthe inner side,

of the' I first 1 'lip- .isec-tibn, V ertically sextendin'g "stiffening members are interposed between the twoopposing lip sectins and the latter are then secured together by lines or stitching arranged to' hol'd lthe stiflening niembers inplacei' This method b'f forining', foldingandjoining 'the lip section's provides, 'in effelit',v a flat; two-ply band which presents a finished seamless appearance,

along that portion of the tbandwhi'ch constitutes 'the extreme'upper:edge'of the. girdle. "The lip softhat the'fol'ded'lip section, when disposed at the inner sections are made of substantial width the-Wear'erin the': same manner as the relatively -'narrovv=rid'ge formed by the binding strip which is anplied to th'eupper'edge of the'band formed by lip "section's :joined together in accordance width the invention" disclose'd in my prior application; in 'somecases the'lower edge of the Second orfold'ed lip section maybe se'vvnto the lower edge hf the first mentioned lip section; or

to :a p'orti'on of the body'section'adjacent the 1 lower edge -of said. first mentioned lip section. In this' 'caseaa fiat, tubular band is formedby stitching the-ioweraedge of'the second lip section in place after the two clip sections have previously been joined together by lines of stitch ing which serve to hold the stifiening jmember's inplace.

-Another advantage of the present invention ,is that itprovides 'a methodiof fabricating maiterial 1 f or use ;in the manufac'tureof Waist-stiffened girdles :which lends itself to the provision of =desirable rreinforeed edges at the lower: edge of a "the body section and upper and; lower lip section.

' The foregoingas well asother objects, advantages and characteristic featuresv of this inven- 'In fabri'cat f l at the upper-edgeof the vfirst mentioned lip section and at both "the edges of the second'mentioned .tion will be more readilyunderstood from the following detailed description and accompanying drawings, in which- Fig. l is a front elevation of a complete waiststiffened girdle made in accordance with said in- Fig. 4 is a view illustratin the weave of material from which the girdle shown in the-3.

preceding figures is fabricated.

As shown in Figs. 1 to 3 inclusive, my improved girdle comprises a woven body section 5, a lip section 6 woven integral-with the upper edge 1 of the body section 5 and aisecond lip section 1 woven integral with the upper edge of the first Each of the lip sections 6 and I is made of two sets of warp yarns respectively indicated at l5 and 16. The yarns 16 are flner and lighter in weight as compared with the yarns l5 and the latter are finer and'lighter in weight as compared with the warp yarns ll of the body section 5.

Preferably, therelation between the size and weight of [the warp yarns l1 prov'idedin the body section 5 and the size and weight of the warp yarns l5 and I5 provided in each of the lip sections 6 and I is such that the tube portion of the garment formed by the folding and sewing of the I lip section '1 will have substantially the same weight andstrength as the body section 5. The yarns. I5 of each of the lip sections 6 and are preferably made of rubber, Lastex or other elastic material. I These yarns l5 are prefmentioned lip section 6. In fabricating this gar- 1 ment'the lip section 1 is first folded downwardly into opposing relation with oneside (preferably the inner side) of the lip section'6. r' This provides a two-ply band along the upperedge of the body section 5 and this band is stiffened against ermanentcrimping or curlingby 'suitableistiifening members 8. arranged between the component plies thereof. The two-band forming plies or lip section 6 and 1 are -.then joinedztogether. by lines 7 of stitching 8a and 811 (Fig. l which are arranged to hold/the stifienin'g membersB-in place. In this connection it will be noted that each line of stitching 8a extends around the lower end and upwardly along the sides'of' one of the stiffening members 8'while each lineof stitching 8b extends along and'through the central portion of one of the stiffenin members. In some-."cases the lines of stitching 8b maybe omitted, in which event each stiffening member will be held in place sole 1y bythe line of stitchingtd; :Itwill jalso-be understood that each line of stitching 8a may also be arranged as in Fig. 3 so thatit actually passes through theside' and lower end portions of each stiffeningmember; I

' 'As shown more particularly in Figs. 1 and3,

each stiffening member 8preferably consists of a relatively long and narrow vertically extending piece of textile fabric stiffened by agroup of t closel spaced vertically extendin textilestiffeningcords 9. The stiffenin 'element 8 are preferably provided with straight upper end edges 10 of substantial length and convexly curved lower end edges II. It will be understood, however,

that conventionalstiifening bones or other suitable forms of stiffening elements may be used in place of the textile stiffening elements 8.

' In some cases the 'lower'edge of the folded lip section I is secured by a line of stitching Ia (Fig. 2) either'to the lower edgezportion of the lip section 5 or to an adjacent portion of thebody section 5.- In most cases the lip sections are simply joined together along the lines of stitch+ The material used in the fabrication of the girdle shown in Figs. 1 to 3 inclusive is prefer- 'section'i' and the two lip sections 6 and I. The

weft yarns M are preferablymade of rubber, Lastex or other material possessing considerable'elastic stretch but this is not absolutely essential since, if-desired, the weft l4 maybe'composed; ofr'elativel non-stretchable textile yarns of any suitablematerial.

I ing 8a and/or 86 which serve to hold the stitch in members 8 in place.

yarns 15 used in the lip sections are finer than edge-of: the body section 5, over two yarns l5 at the upper edge of the lip section 6, over two yarns I5 at the lower edge of the lip section 1 and over twoyarns i5 atthe upperaedge of lip section I. In this way reinforced edges are provided at the lower-edge of the body section 5, at the upper edge of lip section 6 and at both the upperand lower edges of lip section I. It will also be noted that the portionof the weft H which connects the upper reinforced edge of lip. section 6 to the reinforced edge at the lower edge-of lip section fl' provides a predetermined fold line orhinge connection ;A' which facilitatesfolding of the lip section I to the position shown in Fig. 2. h Th warp .yarns H of body-section 5 are preferably the sameas the warp ya-rns 15 of the lip sections; .that is to say, the warp. yarns H are made of rubber, Lastex orother stretchable material with or withouta covering of rayon or the like; o

Owing to the. circumferential direction of the elastic warp yarns included therein the finished 'girdle'will cling closely to the figure of the wearer stretchable'stiifened waist portion which closely hugs the "figure of the wearer at all times and yields readily to bending movements of the wearer'while preventing permanent crimping or curling of thewaist portion due ,to such bending movements- -It may'also'be' pointed outthat, even when the weft yarns used in the body and lip sections are inherently non-stretchable, the weave of the fabric is such as topermit the finished garment to have a limited stretch in the vertical direction thereof. M

The'fine rayon threads l6 incorporated in the lip sections 6 and '1 serve as'filling threads in these sections of the fabric' and also assist in giving 'suchsections' the same strength as the body section 5 despite the fact that the'elastic'warp the warp yarns I! of the body section.

. Having'thusfdescribed' what I now conceive to be the preferred embodiment "of this invention, it

will be understood that various modifications may be resorted to within the'scope and spirit 4.,A woven fabriccomprising a. body section, a

lip section Woven integral with'theupper edge of the invention as defined by the appended claims.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim is: 3 I

1. A woven fabric comprising a body section, a lip section woven integral with the upper edge of the body, section, a second lip section woven edge of the first mentioned lip section. and at both the upper and lower mentioned lip section.

2. A wovenfabric comprising a body section,

edges of th second a lip section woven integral with the upper edge of the body section, a second lip section woven integral with the upper edge of the first mentioned section so as to provide a definite fold line or hinge connection between the adjacent edges of the lip sections, said fabric being further .characterised in that each lip section includes warp yarns which are finer and lighter in weight as compared with the warp yarns in the body section.

3. A woven fabric comprising a body section, a lip section woven integral with the upper edge of the body section, a second lip section woven integral with the upper edge of the first mentioned section so as to provide'a definite fold line I or hinge connection between the adjacent edges of the lip sections, said fabric being further characterised in that the lip sections include weft yarns which are the same as the weft yarns.

in the body section and warp yarns which are finer and lighter in weight as compared with the warp yarns in said body section.

of the body section, a secondlip section woven integral with the upper edge of the first mentioned lip section to provide a definite fold line or hinge connection between adjacent edges of the lip sections each lip section including two sets of Warp yarns, the warp yarns of one set being made of elastically stretchable material and the warp yarns of the other set being substantially non-stretchable and finer and lighter in weight as compared With such elastically stretchable yarns, said fabric being further characterised in that all of the warp yarns in the lip sections are finer and lighter in weight as cornpared with the warpyarns in the body section.

5. A woven fabric comprising a body section,

a lip section woven integral with the upper edge,

of the body section, a second lip section woven integral with the upper edge of the first mentioned lip section so .as to provide a definite fold line or hinge connection between the adjacent edges of the lipsections, saidfabric being further characterized in that each lip section ineludes two sets of warp yarns, the warp yarns of one setgbeing made of elastically stretchable material and thewarp yarns of the other set being made of substantially non-stretchable material, the non stretchable warp yarns of each lip section being arranged in pairs between adjacent stretchable warp yarns of said section and being finer and lighter in weight as compared with said stretchable yarns, the Weft yarns in'ea'ch lip section being passed in a single run over both of the non-stretchable warp yarns which are paired together between adjacent stretchable yarns, certain stretchable warp yarns of each lip section being also arranged in pairs so that the weft passes in a single run over both of the yarns so paired, the last mentioned stretchable warp yarns being located at certain edges of the lip sections. LOUIS J. AJAMYOT.

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