US2316363A - Shoe quarter and method of forming same - Google Patents

Shoe quarter and method of forming same Download PDF

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Publication number
US2316363A
US2316363A US398280A US39828041A US2316363A US 2316363 A US2316363 A US 2316363A US 398280 A US398280 A US 398280A US 39828041 A US39828041 A US 39828041A US 2316363 A US2316363 A US 2316363A
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United States
Prior art keywords
quarter
seam
parts
stitching
line
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Expired - Lifetime
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US398280A
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Quinn Edward
Adrien L Jalbert
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United Shoe Machinery Corp
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United Shoe Machinery Corp
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Priority to US398280A priority Critical patent/US2316363A/en
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Publication of US2316363A publication Critical patent/US2316363A/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0245Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
    • A43B23/025Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form assembled by stitching
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T428/00Stock material or miscellaneous articles
    • Y10T428/24Structurally defined web or sheet [e.g., overall dimension, etc.]
    • Y10T428/24033Structurally defined web or sheet [e.g., overall dimension, etc.] including stitching and discrete fastener[s], coating or bond
    • Y10T428/24041Discontinuous or differential coating, impregnation, or bond
    • Y10T428/2405Coating, impregnation, or bond in stitching zone only

Description

April 13, 1943. QUINN ETAL 2,316,363
SHOE'QUARTER AND METHOD OF FORMING SAME Filed June 16, 1941 Patented Apr. 13, 1943 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.
SHOE QUARTER AND METHOD OF FORMING SAME Application June 15, 1941, Serial No. 398,280
ll) Claims.
This invention relates to shoe quarters and methods of making, and more particularly to the treatment of the parts of a quarter to be joined in a back seam.
In the manufacture of shoes, it is common practice to form the quarter of two parts stitched together in a back seam. The parts of the quarter are usually stitched together while the parts are held back-to-back or with their grain surfaces in contact. When the quarter is turned right side out, the seam extensions on the inside of the quarter present a bulky seam ridge, which may be reduced by heat and pressure. While this method and the resulting product have been found reasonably satisfactory, the appearance of the resulting product is not always as neat as could be desired. This is particularly true if the quarter is made of heavy upper leather. When the quarter is turned right side out, the parts thereof are turned partially back upon themselves along the sides of the seam, and the thickness of the materials prevents turning the parts about as small a radius as desired. The result of this is that the material bulges at the sides of the seam. While this bulging may be somewhat reduced by stretching the sides of the quarter from the back seam, this often results in making the stitches visible, which detracts from the appearance of the quarter.
To overcome the disadvantages of the conventional back seam construction pointed out above, and in accordance with a feature of the present invention, the parts of the quarter are reduced in thickness adjacent to and inwardly of the line of stitching. This is accomplished by forming a groove in the flesh side of each part of the quarter substantially parallel to and, inwardly of the edge to be joined in the back seam. The thin portions of leather remaining after the formation of the grooves form hinges about which the parts are turned relative to the seam ridge formed by stitching the parts together. This permits the parts of the quarter to be turned about a smaller radius than is otherwise possible and eliminates excessive bulging of the material at the sides of the seam.
To provide adequate strength to the back seam,
the stitches pass through the parts of the quarter inwardly of the edges a substantial amount to minimize the danger of thestitches tearing through the leather at the back seam when the upper is pulled over a last. The edges of the parts of the quarter to be joined are convexly curved, and after the parts have been stitched together and the quarter turned right side out, the
curvature of the seam is reversed and the length of the seam ridge is decreased so that the material forming the seam ridge must be compressed in order to conform the back seam to the curvature of the last. Thenecessity of compressing the material renders it more diflicult to produce the correct curvature at the back seam than it would be if there were less material projecting beyond the stitches and forming the seam ridge. In accordance with a further feature-of the invention, the edges of the parts of the quarter, which are joined in the back seam, ar pinked, the bottoms of the notches thus formed lying between the points at which the stitches pass through the material. This permits a sufficient width of material to project outwardly from the points through which the stitches pass to minimize the danger of the stitches tearing through the material. Th notches thus formed by the pinking facilitate turning the quarter right side out and changing the curvature of the seam from convex to concave, as the notches obviate the necessity of compressing the material to any appreciable extent as the length of the edge of the seam ridge is reduced.
These and other features of the invention will now be described in detail and illustrated in the drawing, in which:
Fig. 1 is a perspective view illustrating the two parts of a quarter constructed according to the present invention as they appear after they have been stitched together but before the quarter has been turned right side out;
Fig. 2 is a transverse section through the back seam of the quarter of Fig. 1 after the quarter has been turned right side out; p
Fig. 3 is a transverse section through the back seam of a quarter constructed in a conventional manner; 7
Fig. 4 is a perspective view, partly in section, showing the interior of a quarter constructed according to the present invention, after the seam extensions have been laid back;
Fig. 5 is a plan view of a portion of the quarter before it has been turned right side out; and
Fig. 6 is a vertical section through the back seam illustrating the seam ridge after the quarter has been turned right side out.
Referring to Fig. 1, parts HI and 12 of a quarter are shown in back-to-back relationship secured together by a line of stitches I4 passing through the parts It and I2 inwardly of. the adjacent edges of the parts. Grooves [6 are formed in the flesh surfaces of the parts, the grooves being located inwardly from the line of stitches l4 and extending substantially parallel to the edges of the parts. The line of stitches preferably passes through the parts of the quarter along the outer edges of the grooves. These grooves may be formed either before or after the parts have been stitched toegther. The grooves leave thinner portions which act as hinges to facilitate turning the quarter from the inside-out position of Fig. 1 to the right-side-out position illustrated in Fig. 2, the material partially filling the grooves and minimizing bulging of the material at the sides of the seam. Fig. 3 shows a conventional back seam construction in which the parts If! and 12' of the quarter are of uniform thickness and illustrates the bulges l8 that are formed alongside the back seam when the quarter is turned right side out. A comparison of Figs. 2 and 3 illustrates that a flatter back seam is formed when the thicknesses of the parts of the quarter are reduced adjacent to the seam, permitting the turning of the parts of the quarter about a sharper radius than is possible if theparts of the quarter are of substantially uniform thickness throughout.
The parts ofthe quarter extend outwardly from the stitches [4 a substantial distance to form seam extensions 20 which are pinked to form a seriesof V notches 22. The bottoms of these notches lie between the points 24 at which the stitches pass through the parts of the quarter, as indicated in Figs. 1, 5, and 6. These notches facilitate turning the quarter right side out after the parts thereof have been stitched together by reducing the compression of the seam ridge, comprising the seam extensions 2!], required during the reversal of the curvature of the seam ridge from convex, as indicated in Fig. 5, to concave, as indicated in Fig. 6 with its consequent reduction in length. However, the material extends outwardly of the row of stitches a substantial distance at the points where the stitches pass through the parts of the quarter, thereby to .avoid the danger of the stitches pulling through thematerlal when the quarterls stretched over a last. A seam ridge pinked as illustrated thus has the requisite strength without hindering theturning of the quarter into its right-side-out condition. The seam ridge is preferably pinked during the stitching operation, thus insuring the correct relationship of the stitches to the notches formed by the pinking operation, although the pinking operation may take place either before .or after the parts of the quarterare stitched The grooved portions l6 of the quarter are coated with adhesive, this coating of adhesive preferably extending inwardly of the grooves; as illustrated in Fig. '1. After the quarter has been turned right side out, the seam extensions 20 are turned back so that the flesh surfaces thereof engage the flesh surfaces of the respective parts of the quarter and the adhesive, which has been previously applied-thereto, holds the seam extensions in place, as illustrated in Fig. 4. One method of laying back the seam extensions is to press the sides of the quarter along the back seam together after the quarter is in the right-side-out condition of Fig. 2 which will cause the flesh surfaces of the seam ridge to be engaged by the ad jacent surfaces of the quarter, the adhesive which has :been previously applied holding the'seam extensions in place, after which the quarter may again be opened up, as shown in Fig. 4. By thus laying down the seam extensions, there is no seam ridge on the inside of the finished quarter which must be reduced as is customary with a conventional quarter of the type illustrated in Fig. 3. It should be understood that any other suitable method may be employed for laying back the seam extensions.
It will now be seen that a quarter constructed as described above presents a back seam which is free from the excessive bulging commonly encountered in conventional quarters. Furthermore, the treatment of the seam ridge by pinking it facilitates turning the quarter right side out and obtaining the proper curvature along the back seam.
Having thus described our invention, what we claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:
1. The method of forming two-part shoe quarters which comprises forming a groove in the flesh side of each part inwardly of but near the edge to be joined and extending substantially parallel thereto, securing the parts together in back-to-back relation by a line of stitching passing through portions of the quarter of full thickness outwardly of and along the outer edges of the grooves, turning the quarter right side out, and laying back the extensions of the seam thus formed.
2. The method of forming two-part shoe quarters which comprises forming a groove in the flesh side of each part inwardly of out near the edge to be joined and extending substantially parallel thereto, securing the parts together in back-to-back relation by a line of stitching passing through portions of the quarter of full thickg ness outwardly of and along the outer edges of the grooves, applying adhesive to the flesh sides of the parts along the grooves and inwardly thereof, turning the assembled quarter right side out, laying back the extensions of the seam against the flesh surfaces of the quarters inwardly of the line of stitching, and applying pressure to secure the seam extensions in place by the adhesive.
3. The method of forming two-part shoe quarrs which comprises forming a groove in the flesh side of each part inwardly of but near the edge to be joined and extending substantially parallel thereto, securing the parts together in back-to-back relation by a line of stitching passing through portions of the quarter of full thickness along a line outwardly of and immediately adjacent to the outer edges of the grooves and simultaneously pinking the extensions of the seam thus formed, turning the assembled quarter right side out, and laying back the extensions of the seam. V
4. The method of forming two-part shoe quarters which comprises forming a groove in the flesh side of each part inwardly of but near the edge to be joined and extending parallel thereto, securing the parts together in back-to-back relation by a line of stitching passing through portions of the quarter of full thickness along a line outwardly of and immediately adjacent to the outer edges of the grooves, applying adhesive to the flesh sides of the parts from the line of stitching inwardly of the inner edges of the grooves, turning the assembled quarter right side out, and laying back the extensions of the seam and securing them by the adhesive to the flesh surfaces of the respective parts inwardly of the line of stitching.
5. A quarter assembly comprising two quarter parts secured together by stitching to form a back seam, each of said parts being reduced in thickness inwardly of but immediately adjacent to the line of stitching, the line of stitching passing through portions of the quarter of full thickness.
6. A quarter assembly comprising two quarter parts secured together by stitching to form a back seam, each of said parts being reduced in thickness inwardly of but immediately adjacent to the line of stitching, the line of stitching passing through portions of the quarter of full thickness, the seam extensions on the inside of the quarter being laid back upon the adjacent surfaces of the respective parts.
7. A quarter assembly comprising two quarter parts secured together by stitching to form a back seam, each of said parts being reduced in thickness inwardly of but immediately adjacent to the line of stitching, the line of stitching passing through portions of the quarter of full thickness, the seam extensions on the inside of the quarter being laid back and adhesively secured upon the adjacent surfaces of the respective parts.
8. A quarter assembly comprising two quarter parts secured together by stitching to form a back seam, each of said parts having grooves inwardly of but immediately adjacent to the line of stitching and extending substantially parallel thereto, the line of stitching passing through portions of the quarter of full thickness, the seam extensions on the inside of the quarter being pinked, the bottoms of the notches formed thereby lying between the points at which the stitches pass through the parts of the quarter.
9. A quarter assembly comprising two quarter parts secured together by stitching to form a back seam, each of said parts having grooves inwardly of but immediately adjacent to the line of stitching and extending substantially parallel thereto, the line of stitching passing through portions of the quarter of full thickness, the seam extensions on the inside of the quarter being pinked, the bases of the notches formed thereby lying between the points at which the stitches pass through the parts of the quarter, the seam extensions being laid back upon the adjacent surfaces of the respective parts.
10. A quarter assembly comprising two quarter parts secured together by stitching to form a back seam, each of said parts having grooves inwardly of but immediately adjacent to the line of stitching and extending substantially parallel thereto, the line of stitching passing through portions of the quarter of full thickness, the seam extensions on the inside of the quarter being pinked, the bottoms of the notches formed thereby lying between the points at which the stitches pass through the parts of the quarter, the seam extensions being laid back and adhesively secured to the adjacent surfaces of the respective parts.
EDWARD QUINN. ADRIEN L. JALBERT.
US398280A 1941-06-16 1941-06-16 Shoe quarter and method of forming same Expired - Lifetime US2316363A (en)

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Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2419594A (en) * 1944-07-13 1947-04-29 United Shoe Machinery Corp Seam pressing machine
US3427673A (en) * 1966-01-14 1969-02-18 Clarks Ltd Method of joining the edges of a shoe outer
DE2850161A1 (en) * 1978-11-18 1980-05-29 Pfaff Ind Masch Shoe seam along heel - joints two parts of upper using two grooves parallel to edges of upper parts
US4319413A (en) * 1980-04-11 1982-03-16 Pruf-und Forschungsinstitut fur die Schuhherstellung Seam construction, particularly for heel portions of shoes and method of effecting the same
US20150374064A1 (en) * 2013-02-25 2015-12-31 Roberto Pierobon Waterproof and vapor-permeable shoe and manufacturing method thereof

Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2419594A (en) * 1944-07-13 1947-04-29 United Shoe Machinery Corp Seam pressing machine
US3427673A (en) * 1966-01-14 1969-02-18 Clarks Ltd Method of joining the edges of a shoe outer
DE2850161A1 (en) * 1978-11-18 1980-05-29 Pfaff Ind Masch Shoe seam along heel - joints two parts of upper using two grooves parallel to edges of upper parts
US4319413A (en) * 1980-04-11 1982-03-16 Pruf-und Forschungsinstitut fur die Schuhherstellung Seam construction, particularly for heel portions of shoes and method of effecting the same
US20150374064A1 (en) * 2013-02-25 2015-12-31 Roberto Pierobon Waterproof and vapor-permeable shoe and manufacturing method thereof
US10441024B2 (en) * 2013-02-25 2019-10-15 Bolzonello & Partners Srl Waterproof and vapor-permeable shoe and manufacturing method thereof
US11284668B2 (en) 2013-02-25 2022-03-29 Calzaturificio S.C.A.R.P.A. S.P.A. Waterproof and vapor-permeable shoe and manufacturing method thereof

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