US2122303A - Neck band forming apparatus - Google Patents

Description

June 28, 1938. E. v. ToLEN ET A1. A 29122303 NECK BAND FORMING APPARATUS Filed March 18, 1933 2 .Sheets-Shee'; l

June 28, 193%. E. v.V ToLEN ET AL 2,322,303

NECK BAND FoRMrNG APPARATUS Filed WMarch 1s, 19573 2 sne'tssneet 2 Patented June 28, 1938 UNITED STATES PATENT oEFlcE Ind.,

assignors to Reliance Manufacturing Company, Chicago, Ill., a corporation of Illinois Application March 18,

10 Claims.

Our invention relates to neck band forming apparatus. More especially it is concerned with apparatus for temporarily embossing the neck bands of shirts in such a manner that the embostures may conveniently serve as guide marks subsequently to aid the sewing machine operator in attaching the neck band to the collar band and to the body of the shirt'in the proper position. This embossing apparatus is incorporated in a folding machine of the type customarily used in forming the two plies of the neck band and folding over the margins of the plies. Our apparatus solves the problem of a ready and convenient adjustment of the location of the embossings for different sizes of neck bands.

The embossed markings thus formed on the neck bands are an improvement over the previous practice of forming guide notchings in the folded-under margins of the neck band. 'Ihe notches were not visible on the face side of the neck band; and the notches weakened the strength of the double thickness of the material along the folded margins of the neck band.

The foregoing together with other objects, features and advantages of our invention are set forth in the following description of a' specific embodimentthereof and illustrated in the accompanying drawings referred to, wherein:

Fig. 1 is a plan view of the bed portion of a folding machine for neck band blanks (which may be considered asan adaptation of Fig. 3 of Roby Patent 1,600,364);

Fig. 2 is a bottom View on a slightly enlarged scale of the die head used in connection with the bed 'of Fig. 1 which view may be considered as taken on the line 2-2 of Fig. 3;

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary transverse vertical section through the assembled bed and head and may be considered as taken on the lines 3-3 of Figs. 1 and 2;

Fig. 4 is a plan view of a double neck band as produc-ed by the apparatus in Figs. 1, 2 and 3 and showing the'guide marks impressed therein; and

Fig. 5 is a plan View of a shirt laid outside down on the table of a sewing machine (the sewing machine being shown in plan section) illustrating how the collar is sewn to the neck band employing the markings of our invention.

neck band with its embossed guide vmarkings,

then the folding machine and the features thereof whereby the embossed marks are formed on the neck band, and then the operation of sewing the 55. body and collar to the neck band.

We shall rst explain the construction of the' 1933, Serial No. 661,478

The two-ply neck band which we prefer to use in carrying out our invention may be of the conventional type in which pairs of similar blanks have their marginal edges turned back and creased by a folding machine. Fig. 4 shows the two-ply neck band B as it comes from the folding machine. The two lplies Bl and B2 are initially internested in the folding machine operation whereby their seam margins 20 are turned 'back and creased. For use, the plies are of course pulled out of the internesting relation and placed back to back with their seam margins together. This is accomplished by turning one of the plies endto end in relation to the other ply.

A feature of our invention is the guide markings on the neck band plies, which are preferably in the form of bar-like embostures 2| at the collar edge near the ends, where the ends of the attaching edge of the collar come, and 22 on the yoke edge and somewhat nearer the center, where the shoulder seams will come.

In Figs. l, 2 and 3'we have shown fragments of -the folding machine mechanism in which is incorporated means for forming these embossed guide-markings 2| and 22. Fig. 1 may be considered as an adaptation of Fig. 3 of Roby Patent 1,600,364 of September 21, 1926 and reference is made to that patent for details of a satisfactory folding machine in which our embossing invention may be incorporated. A heating pad RIEB (for convenience we shall follow the reference characters of the Roby patent for analogous parts), which constitutes the platen, is mounted on a bed plate R51. A heat plate RI 34 is mounted a spaced distance above the bed plate with the folding sections RI36, R137 slidably mounted between the bed plate and the heating plate and in sliding contact with the heating plate so that they absorb heat from the latter. A pair of neck band blanks BI and B2 is placed upon the heat pad RI58 through the opening formed in the heating plate and folding sections. 'I'he die head, the bottom `view of which is shown in Fg..2 comprising the end die sections'Rlll and the intermediate die section RIDS, are brought down into this opening to clamp the neck band blanks against the heat pad Ri58, The folding sections Rl36 and RI 31 are then moved inwardly across the margins of the openings to fold the seam margins 2U of the neck band blanks upwardly and inwardly and to crease them in that position. If desired, the margins of the blanks may previously have been saturated with a suitable solution--alcohol and water for example-to give something of a starched effect to the creased-over seamed mar-` gins and to the embostures 2| and 22. Following this folding and creasing action, the die head is lifted and the neck bands, whose margins have been creased over the die sections, are stripped from the die sections and are ready for the previously described operation of turning one ply end to end in reference to the other, so that their seam margins come together.

I'he means we have shown incorporated in the folding machine, as illustrated in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, comprise cooperating male and female die elements formed in the heating pad R|58 and the end die sections Rlll. To form the embostures 2| on the collar edge, a bar-like male protruding die element 2 IM is formed in or suitably attached to the surface of each die section R|08 at the point on the collar edge of the die section where the embosture 2| is to appear. At the corresponding regions on the heat pad R|58 are two series of complementary slots 2|F constituting the female die elements. (It will be remembered that Fig. 2 is on a larger scale than Fig. 1.)

To form the yoke side embostures 22, similar die members are'employed, except that the male embostures 22M are on the heating pad and the female members 22]c are on the die section R||l8.

The reason that the die slots 2|F and 22F are multiplied into a group is to permit the die sections Rl 08 to be spaced farther apart or closer together to adjust for different lengths of collar bands, there being one slot 22F for example on each. die section RIUB for each adjustment of that die section.

It will be observed that in forming the embostures 2|, the male die member ZIM is carried by the die sections, whereas` in forming the embostures 22, the male die element 22M is carried by the heating pad. Ihe reason is this: The folding machine of Figs. 1, 2 and 3 is adjustable to take diierent lengths of collar bands. Thus on the die head, the die sections R||l8 may be moved in or out relative to the intermediate die section RI 09. The heat plate R|34 and the folding sections R|36 and R|3`| may be correspondingly adjusted to come somewhat closer together or further apart. 'I'he heating pad R|58 is not adjusted. For different lengths of neck bands, the distance from the pointed end of the band to the embosture 2|, which is the point where the end of the collar comes, remains constant. Therefore the distance between the two embostures 2| must vary with different sizes. On the other hand the distance between the embostures 22, which marks the approximate positions of the shoulder seam of the yoke, do not vary substantially, or if they do vary, they do not Vary by as great a distance as the Variations in lengths of the collar band, and also as will later appear, it is not so necessary that the embostures 22 be spaced a definite distance apart as it is that their spacing be equi-distant from the Vcenter of the band. If the male die elements 2 IM were on.

Having thus explained the construction of the two-ply neck bands with their embossed guide marks and the apparatus and method whereby they are formed, we shall now describe the method and apparatus used in assembling the neck band body and collar:

Referring to Fig. 5, the body of the shirt comprises the usual yoke 30, the left front piece 3|L; the right front piece SIR. and the back piece 32. In the sewing operation, the shirt body assembly lies with its inside up on the sewing machine table 33 initially at the left of the needle 34. The collar band plies BI and B2 are arranged as previously described with their in-creased seam margins facing each other. To sew the collar band to the body assembly, the stitching is commenced at the button end b of the band, where the loose ends of the threads are indicated at 35. The line of stitching 35 is run along the margins of the respective plies of the bands with the body assembly between the plies. Thus the band is sewn first to the righthand side piece 3| R, then to the yoke 3l) and then to the left hand side piece 3| L. When the needle reaches the buttonhole point bh, the sewing machine is stopped and the entire assembly is rotated clockwise about the needle as a pivot until the body assembly lies to the right of the needle somewhat as shown in Fig. 5.

Then the second line of stitching 35ct-which is really but a continuation of the rst line 35- sews directly together the respective plies of the neck band between the point and the place where the collar is to be inserted. The operator inserts the collar to register substantially with the embosture 2 I. Then the line of stitching 35a is continued to stitch the two plies of the collar band together with the edge of the collar assembly between them. In Fig. 5 the second line of stitching 35a has progressed about half way. After it reaches the second embosture 2| which cornes at the other end of the collar, the stitching continues to the button point b, stitching the ends of the neck band plies directly together. The second line of stitching 35a. terminates at the same point where the line of stitching 35 commenced.

The sewing operation may be facilitated by the use of the guide 31 removably carried by the plate 38 as described and claimed in our copending application Serial No. 661,479 filed March 18, 1933. The construction of the shirt and the method of making it are disclosed in greater detail and claimed in our copending application Serial No. 661,476 le'd March 18, 1933.

The embostures 22 substantially align with the shoulder seams 3| between the yoke and the side pieces.` Thisalignment is calculated to serve as a guide for the operator in giving the right amount of pull to the various parts. The under feed dog of the sewing machine has a tendency to make the lowermost ply of the goods being sewn overrun the upper plies. The neck band should be a trie shorter on the inside than on the outside so that the neck will t properly when being worn'. The embostures 22 thus serve as a guide to enable the operator to see that the proper longitudinal relations between the parts are being kept as the stitching 35 progresses.

The embostures 2| on the collar side of the band serve as guides to show the operator the exact point where the collar is to be inserted in the band. 'I'his determines the proper longitudinal relationship between the collar and .the

band. When a guide such as indicated at 31 and described in our previously mentioned applicationl on the sewing machine, is used, the guide embosture 2| also marks the point in the stitching at which the guide is. to be thrown into position to guide the collar relative to rthe band and the needle. As suggested in Fig. 5,.the second em'- bosture 2| encountered by the needle may slightly overrun the end of the collar due to the factthat the button end b of the neck band should not project so far beyond the end of the collar as does the buttonhole end. We contemplate there# fore that it may be arranged to have the embosture 2 I at the button end of the neck band which is sewn last, spaced somewhat nearer the point than is the other embosture 2l, in locating the die members in the embossing mechanism incorporated in the folding machine. The presence of the embosture 2| at the end of the neck band last sewn is of advantage in enabling the operator to gauge that the feed as between upper and lower plies and also relative to the collar assembly, is progressing satisfactorily so that the assembly will come out correctly.

The use of a guide mark for the neck band in the form of an embosture thereon has several advantages: It is exposed on the top side of the work where it is readily seen; guide marks in the form of notches in the in-creased seam margins ofthe band plies are not readily visible. It results in no structural weakness. There is no color or foreign substance involved which might soil a completed shirt. It is not permanent and it is not obtrusive; by the time the shirt reaches the customer it is scarcely visible and in any event disappears completely with the rst washing. It involves no additional labor expense; cutting notches as guide marks in the aggregate add substantially to the labor in cutting (with the additional danger of cutting the notch too deeply and thereby spoiling the piece for use) and in the labor of the sewing machine operator where the speed does not have to be slowed down because of the obscurity of the marking.

While We have thus describd this specific embodiment of our invention, we contemplate that changes may be made therefrom without departing from the scope or spirit of our invention. Among other things, we particularly contemplate that certain features of our invention may be applied to other phases of garment making than the Vattachment of neck bands.

We claim:

1. An apparatus for embossing guide marks on the collar edge of a fabric neck band, comprising a platen, a co-acting die head having longitudinally adjustable portions adapted for different lengths of bands, short marginal male embossing die members carried by the die head and disposed at fixed distances inwardly from the ends thereof, a plurality of longitudinally spaced female embossing die members formed in the platen for cooperating with the first-mentioned die members for embossing, in the collar edge of the band, short marginal guide marks at the points where the ends of the collar are to come, the male embossing die members cooperating with different embossing die members in the platen for different longitudinal adjustments of the die head.

2. An apparatus for embossing guide marks on the collar edge and on the body edge of a fabric neck band, comprising a platen, a co-acting die head having longitudinally adjustable portions adapted for different lengths of bands, male embossing die members carried by the die head and disposed at fixed distancesl inwardly from the ends thereof, a plurality of longitudinally spaced female embossing die members formed in the platen for cooperating with the first-mentioned die members for embossing, in

' the collar edge of the band, short marginal guide marks at the points where the ends of the. collar are to come, the male embossing die members cooperating with different embossing die members in the platen for different longitudinal adjustments of the die head, and a pair of male embossing die members in the platen at the body edge of the band and cooperating longitudinally spaced embossing members carried by the die head for forming embossed guide marks on the body edge at the points where the shoulder seams of the body are to come, the male embossing die member on the body edge cooperating with different cooperating die members in the die head for different longitudinal adjustments of the die head.

3. An apparatus for embossing guide marks on the collar edge and on the body edge of a fabric neck band, comprising a platen, a co-acting die head having longitudinally adjustable portions adapted for different lengths of bands, male embossing die members carried by the die head and disposed at fixed distances inwardly from the ends thereof, a plurality of longitudinally spaced female embossing die members formed in the platen for cooperating with the first-mentioned die members for embossing, in the collar edge of the band, short marginal guide marks at the points where the ends of the collar are to come, the male embossing die members cooperating with different embossing die members in the platen for different longitudinal adjustments of the die head, and a pair of male embossing die members in the platen at the body edge of the band and cooperating longitudinally spaced embossing members carried by the die head for forming short marginal embossed guide marks on the body edge at the points where the shoulder seams of the body are to come, the male embossing die member on the body edge cooperatn ing with different cooperating die members in the die head for different longitudinal adjustments of the die head whereby, with different longitudinal adjustments of the die head, the embostures formed on the body side of the band remain ai; fixed distances apart while the embostures formed on .the collar side of the band vary in their distance apart but remain constant in their distance in from the adjacent end of the band.

4. A fabric folding and marking machine comprising a shaping die, means cooperating therewith for folding a fabric section over said die, and means associated with said die for marking the fabric section at predetermined points relative to the folds formed therein, said shaping die having shiftable sections for varying the dimensions of the shaped folded fabric section, and said marking means being shiftable for obtaining a predetermined relation between the marking means and the folds in the fabric seci tions for all adjustments of the shaping die.

5. A collar band folding and marking machine comprising a bed plate, a shaping die, means cooperating therewith for folding a fabric section over said die to form a shaped collar band, means associated with said die and bed plate for marking the shaped collar band at predetermined points relative to the ends and center thereof, said shaping die having shiftable sections for varying the length of the collar band, and said marking means being shiftable for obtaining a predetermined relation between the marking means and the fold in the fabric sections for all adjustments of the shaping die.

6. A collar band folding and marking machine comprising a bed plate, a shaping die, means cooperating therewith for folding a fabric section over said die to form a shaped collar band, said shaping die having shiftable end sections for varying the length of the collar band, each end section having a projecting lug on its under. face at a fixed predetermined position from the end of the section, and said bed plate having a series of recesses at each end of the shaping die a unit distance apart, one of which recesses has a projecting lug on the end section associated therewith for creasing the fabric a predetermined distance from the ends of the collar band for all adjustments of the die.

7. A fabric folding and marking machine comprising a shaping die, means cooperating therewith for folding a fabric section over said die, means associated with said die for marking the fabric section at a plurality of predetermined points relative to the folds formed therein, said shaping die being adjustable for folding fabric sections of different sizes, and said marking means being shiftable for obtaining a predetermined relation between the marking means and the folds in the fabric sections for all adjustments of the shaping die.

8. In a machine for infolding blanks for collars and the like and impressing location marks adjacent the periphery thereof, to assist registration in subsequent stitching thereof to a garment or like article, the combination with a blank supporting bed, having a recess or groove beneath each location to be marked, a blank defining templet having an underneath projection or boss at each location to be marked, and means for infolding the blank edge or edges while resting on the bed and defined by the templet, whereby the blank is enfolded and impressed with location marks at the required peripheral points; the templet being lengthwise adjustable for size and the projection being thereby adjustable in location for each adjustment for size, and the bed being adapted to present a recess opposite each such location of the projection.

9. In a machine for infolding blanks for collars and the like and impressing location marks adjacent the periphery thereof, to assist registration in subsequent stitching thereof to a garment or like article, the combination with a blank supporting bed formed with a series of recesses, a blank defining templet having an underneath projection or boss at each location to be marked, and means for infolding the blank edge or edges while resting on the bed and dened by the templet, whereby the blank is infolded and impressed with location marks at the required peripheral points; the templet being lengthwise adjustable for size and the projection being thereby adjustable in location for each adjustment for size, and the bed being adapted to present a recess opposite each such location of the projection.

10. A machine for infolding the edges 0f a collar band and impressing temporary location marks adjacent both sides of the periphery thereof, to assist subsequent registration with and stitching both to a shirt and to a collar top, comprising in combination, a blank supporting bed, a blank dening member fitted to descend upon a blank upon the bed and to retract upwardly, and infolding members tted to move inwardly for infolding the opposite blank edges while resting on the supporting bed and defined by the defining member, and to retract outwardly; one of said members and the bed having at each side margin of the blank a pair of complementary impression elements, namely a short projection and an opposing recess, one pair impressing the band at a position for registration with a shirt body and another pair impressing the band at the'opposite side for registration with a collar top, whereby with a single operation of the dening member and infolding member the blank is defined, infolded and impressed with marginal registration marks at the required peripheral points at both sides of the collar band blank, the blank dening member having means for adjusting its dimensions, and the supporting bed being adapted to present an impression element in position for each adjusted position of the opposing impression element.

EARL V. TOLEN. CHARLES B. HARBSTREIT.

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