US2122041A - Method and product of shoe-construction - Google Patents

Description

June 2a, 1938. M. MARASCO 2,122,041

METHOD AND PRODUCT OF SHOE CONSTRUCTION Filed Jan. 31, 1956 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 A ITOENEY June 28, 1938 M. MARASCO METHOD AND PRODUCT 0F SHOE CONSTRUCTION Filed Jan. 31, 1936 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 IN VEN TOP Mars ha Marasco.

QE QW rangement, and combination of parts of the re- Patented June 28, 1938 METHOD AND raonoor or Y smoonon SHOE-CON- Marshall Mai-mo, University at, Mo.

Application January 81, 1936, Serial No. 61,682

' 7 Claims. (01. 12-142) This invention relates generally to the manulecture or shoes and, more particularly to a method and product of shoe-construction, reference being had to my co-pending application Serial No. 745,874, filed September 28, 1934, of which this present application is a continuationin-part.

My invention has for its prime object the provision of a method of shoe'manufacture, especially for the making of a shoe of the ocinented or so-called compo type, in which an economy is effected in parts, material, and labor involved in the manufacture of the shoe, and in the provision of a resulting shoe product which,

in an unique manner, is highly adapted to snugly and neatly engage and conform itself to the foot of the wearer.

And with the above and other objects in view, my invention resides in the uniquemethod, and in the novel features of form, construction, ar-

sulting product of shoe-manufacture presently described and pointed out in 'the claims.

In the accompanying drawings (two sheets) Figure 1 is an inverted perspective view of a shoe-structure embodying my invention, mounted on a lasti re aration for the first ste of n p p p my applied at the heel, which most conveniently method of shoe-construction;

Figure 2 isa similar view, representing an intermediate stage of the shoe-construction;

Figure 3 is likewise a similar view. showing the shoe-structure in readiness to receive the sole of the shoe, the latter being shown in inverted perspectiveflin parted relationship to the shoestruc'turejflf' l Figure 4' is a sectional view through the instep of the last and its enveloping shoe-structure, the view corresponding approximately to the stage of manufacture shown in Figure 2;

Figure 5 is a similar view, showing a stage of the process succeeding that of the stage of I Figure 4;

Figure 6 is a sectional view through the instep of the last and its supported shoe-structure'as appearing after the outer sole is applied; and

Figure 7 is a similar sectional view taken through the ball of the last and shoe-structure.

Briefly, my new method of shoe construction consists in providing, in an assembly of shoematerial to be made into a finished shoe, and as a part of the other elements of the shoe-structure, a lining having its opposing lower side margins respectively widened or increased in width at the shank, each for extending substantially across and to the opposite side of the shank'of the finof the lining material. [its doubler, if one is used) has its respective ished shoe, so that the shank of the shoe is constructed of transversely? over-lapping plies Likewise, the upper, (and lower side margins widened or increased in width 5 so that the edges of said upper margins abut at the center line, and under the arch, of 'the finished shoe.

respective bottom margins of the lining and the 15 upp r, and the two are side-lasted for marginally bounding the ball of, and are also temporarily tacked to, the last, with the lining in non-adherent relation to the last, and the lower edge of the upper in adherent relation to the lower- 20 edge of the lining.

Next, the lining and upper at the toe are cemented together, and at the heel also, the lining,

counter, and upper are cemented together, and

the shoe-material at both the toe and the heel is 5 fitted on the last, temporary holding tacks being applied at the toe, and permanent tacks being may be done by means of a bed-lasting machine.

Then the widened marginal portion of the respective sides of the lining'is, by hand or machine and while the shoe-structure is in the grip of the bed-lasting machine, side-lasted along the shank by first stretching one side margin of the lining over the shank of the last in non-adherent relation thereto, then applying a very rapidly drying adhesive to the exposed surface of said margin, and then stretching the other side margin of the lining over the first mentioned margin, such two marginal portions of the lining then becoming 40 quickly firmly adherent one to the other.

As the next step, the upper is side-lasted at both sides of the shoe, so that the edges of the widened lower side margins of' the upper abut approximately at the center-line of the shank of the shoe, a suitable adhesive or cement being app ied between theexposed surface of the outer overlapping lining margin and the respective upper side margins, which are then temporarily tacked through the lining to the last pending the hardening of the cement or adhesive.

Meanwhile, I have provided an outer sole characterized by having an interior raised face for presenting to the ball of the foot of the wearer of the finished shoe a surface flush with the admounted on the shank portion of the shoebottom,

the temporary tacks are removed and the sole applied, preferably with the aid of a. suitable machine, to the shoe material, a suitable adhesive being disposed between the upper and the sole for unify ng the same into a strong and sturdy shoestructure. V

I'hereaften the shoe is finished in the usual manner, well known to those skilled in the art and not deemed necessary of further elaboration.

Referring now more in detail and by reference characters to the drawings, which illustrate one embodiment of my invention, I provide, as a part of the shoe-structure, a lining A, which in its general contour will, of course, be suitable for the style and size of the shoe to be constructed, but in one particular will, so far as I am aware, depart from the conventional construction in the respect that, in patterning the lining, each side of the' lining A is fashioned or 'cut with an increased width, forming shank lining flaps I, I', for extending substantially across and to the opposite side of the shank of the finished shoe.

Likewise, the upper B of the shoe-structure, (and its doubler, if one is used), is patterned with an increased width opposite the shank of the shoe, so that each side of the upper forms an upper-shank flap 2, 2', as it may be said, which will so extend across the shank of the finished shoe that the opposing edge 3, 3, of each uppershank flap 2, 2, will be in approximate meeting juxtaposition at the center line of the shank.

In the usual manner, the lining A and upper B are mounted on and pulled over the appropriate last C, together with the customary counter D disposed around the heel 4 of the last between the lining A and upper B, the last C, prior to such operation, having had a heel-piece 5 temporarily positioned on theheel 4 of the last, as by a suitable securing member or tack 6.

With the shoe-structure so disposed on the last C, it will be seen that the bottom heel-enveloping margin I of the lining A, and the similar margin 8 of the upper B, extend substantially beyond the heel 4 of the last C; likewise, the bottom side margin 9 of the lining A, and the bottom side margin I0 of the upper B, extend substantially beyond the ball I I and toe I2 of the last C; while the lining fiaps I, I, and upper fiaps 2, 2', extend from the shank I3 of the last C, as best seen in Figure 1.

Then, in accordance with my method of shoeconstruction, a suitableadhesive or cement I4 is applied to and, it may be especially pointed out, only between, the side margin 9 of the lining A and the side margin II] of the upper B, and the two are 'then, preferably by means of a side-lasting machine, side-lasted over the ball II of the last and temporarily tacked thereto as by suitable'fastening elements or tacks I5, as best seen in Figure 2.

Next, a suitable adhesive is applied between the lining A and upper B at the toe I2 of the shoe,

and likewise adhesive material is applied in the the last C during the operation of the bed-lasting machine, as will be understood by those skilled in the shoe-making art, and as best seen in Figure 2.

Then, most conveniently while the shoe-structure is in the grip of the bed-lasting machine, the lining flaps I, I, are side-lasted over the shank I3 of the last C. This is preferably, though not necessarily, accomplished by hand and is carried out by first drawing one of the flaps, as I, snugly over and across the shank I3 of the last, so that the free edge of the flap I resides substantially at the opposite side of the shank I3.

Still firmly holding the fiap I in place, a rapidly drying adhesive or cement I8 is applied to the exposed face of the flap I, and the other flap I' is quickly drawn in overlapping relationship onto the flap I the adhesive I8 being selected of such nature that but a very small intervalof time is required for the-flaps I,. I. to become firmly andsecurely adherent to each other, the shoe-structure at the shank then appearing as best seen in Figure 4.

As the next step, a suitable adhesive, as [9, is applied to the upper flaps 2, 2', and the same are respectively side-lasted over the exposed lining flap I', so that the respective -edges 3, 3', of the flaps 2, 2', meet or substantially abut at the center line of the shank of the shoe, temporarily holding tacks 20 being also applied, as will be understood from Figures 2 and 5.

However, it will be understood that it may sometimes be found desirable to pull the lining and upper-flaps over the shank after the shoestructure is taken from the bed-lasting machine, and this may be readily done, if such departure from the foregoing procedure will best serve the intended purpose.

After the shoe-structure is removed from the Meanwhile, I have provided an outer sole E for the shoe. The sole E has the usual heel-flap 23 at its heel 24 and is given a bevel skiving 25 along the sides of the heel-portion 24 and shank 26 substantially to a point adjacent the forward end of the shank region, as is customary in the art.

However, the sole E departs from customary practice, so far as I am aware, in that .the sole E, around the ball'2'l and toe 28 thereof, is skived to form a marginal flange 29 for attachment to the margin 9 of the upper B, the depth of the skiving being substantially equal to the thickness of the cemented margins 9, III, of the lining A and upper B, respectively, for providing a raised face or integral filler 30 having a height for neatly fitting into the recess 3| which exists between the edges of the margins 9, I0, and the exposed ball portion II of the last C, as best seen in Figures 3 and 7.

The sole E is now applied to the shoe-structure with the aid of a suitable adhesive, this work being done preferably by means of a suitable machine, which presses the sole E firmly onto the shoe-structure, the skived margins 25 of the sole neatly engaging the heel margin 8 and instep struction eifectuates a substantial economy in the flaps 2, 2', of the upper B, and so as also to cover and enclose the shank stiffener II in a sightly i seen in Figure 7.

The shoe is then finished in the usual manner according to such requirements as may best serve the purpose, which are not here deemed necessary of further description.

Several economies and improvements in the I shoe-manufacture are eifectuated by employing process, the temporary tacks are removed for subsequentiy permitting the application of the outer sole of the shoe, the relatively stiff lining, caused to be firmly adherent to the upper by the set of the cement, will so stiffen and reinforce the whole marginal material, which overlaps the sides of the I ball of the shoe, as to substantially retain the same in snugly fitting or hugging relationshipmn and with the last.

In this manner, I avoid the need of an inner sole, which iswholly absent in my improved shoe, and it will be understood, therefore, that no ad-' hesive is applied to the inner face of the lining, the last being wholly naked and bare, except, of course, for the heel-piece 5.

An economy is thus effected by the elimination of the cost of the material required for an inner sole, as well as the cost of performing the extra step of incorporating an inner sole in the shoe.

The resulting shoe construction is possessed of ,a number of important and unique features and Thus, by the unique construction of the shank I of the shoe, the usual filler is eliminated, its

place being taken by the overlapping plies of the lining material, which not only effects an additional economy in the cost of the shoe, but, most importantly, the adherent overlapping plies of the lining stiilen and reinforce the shoe at its instep and provide a smoothly fitting pliable cradle, as it may be said, for snugly and supportingly engaging and readily conforming to the instep of the wearer of the shoe, as will be understood from Figure 6.

Again, a high degree of comfort in the wear of the shoe is effected by the unique construction at the ball of the shoe. As will be seen from Figure 7, the elimination of an inner sole from the shoe and the provision of the filler 30 on the sole E of the shoe present to the ball of the foot of the wearer of the shoe a surface which smoothly merges into the side walls of the upper, so that the upper is thus adapted to neatly and effectively conform itself to, and most comfortably engage and support, the foot of the wearer of the shoe.

Thus, as will be seen, my method of shoe-concost of manufacture of the shoe and provides a shoe-product possessed of strong and sturdy characteristics highly conducive to the pleasurable wear of the shoe.

It will be understood that changes and modifications in the particulars of the several steps of manufacture, and in the form, construction, arrangement, and combination of the several parts of the finished shoe may be made and substituted for those herein shown and described without departing from the nature and principle of my invention.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is,-

1. Those steps in the manufacture of a shoe which consist in first providing an upper-structure including a lining having its respective lower side margins widened at the shank, then mounting the upper-structure on a last, then laying one margin over the shank of the last in non-adherent relation thereto, and then laying the other margin over the first mentioned margin in adherent relation thereto.

2. Those steps in the manufacture of a shoe which consist in first providing an upper structure including a lining having its respective lower side margins widened at the shank, then mounting the upper-structure on a last, then laying one margin over the shank of the last in non-adherent relation thereto, then applying an adhesive to the exposed surface thereof, and then laying the other margin over the first mentioned margin in adherent relation thereto.

3. In, a shoe, a lining having opposed side margins widened at the shank and extending in overlapping relationship substantially from one side to the other of the shank of the shoe, an upper whose opposed lower margins substantially abut centrally of the shank, and an outer sole fixed to the upper and concealing the said abutting margins thereof.

4. In a shoe, a lining having oposed side margins widened at the shank and extending in overlapping, relationship substantially from one side to the other of the shank of the shoe, an upper whose opposed lower margins substantially abut centrally of the shank, an outer sole fixed to the upper, and a shank-stiffener disposed intermediate the abutting margins of the upper and said outer sole.

5. The method of making a shoe comprising the steps of providing upper materials including an upper and a lining, said lining having its respective lower side margins widened at the shank, mounting the upper materials on a last, laying one margin over the instep of the last in non-adherent relation thereto, laying the other margin over the first mentioned margin in adherent relation thereto, bringing and securing the lower margins of the upper across the shank portion into flatwise respective abutting relationship, and positioning and securing a shank stiffener longitudinally of the shank in superposed relationship to the line of abutment between the margins of the upper.

6. A shoe comprising an upper and lining lasted into shoe-forming shape, said upper and lining being cemented together and turned inwardly along their lower margins thereby providing a stiffened sole-engaging flange marginally bounding the forepart of the shoe, said flange being laterally widened on both sides of the shoe along the shank portion thereof for extending in overlapping relationship transversely across said shank and thereby providing a sole-receiving opening in the forepart of the shoe completely bounded by the margin of said flange, and an outer sole secured to the upper and having its upper surface marginally reduced at the top surface of its forepart thereby providing an upstanding portion shaped to flt within said solereceiving opening in snug fitting abutment with the margin of the upper flange.

7. A shoe comprising an upper and lining lasted into shoe-forming shape, said upper and lining being cemented together and turned inwardly along their lower margins thereby providing a stifiened sole-engaging flange marginally bounding theiorepart of the shoe, said flange being laterally widened on both sides of the shoe along the shank portion thereof for extending in overlapping relationship transversely across said shank and thereby providing a sole-receiving opening in the forepart of the shoe completely bounded by the margin of said flange, and an outer sole secured to the upper and having its upper surface marginally reduced at the top surface of its forepart thereby providing an upstanding portion shaped to fit within said solereceiving opening in snug fitting abutment with the margin of the upper flange, said upstanding portion along its upwardly presented flat face being flush with the upwardly presented face of the upper flange.

MARSHALL MARASCO.

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