US2066424A

US2066424A - Manufacture of shoes

Info

Publication number: US2066424A
Application number: US72132A
Authority: US
Inventors: August R Schoenky
Original assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Current assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Priority date: 1936-04-01
Filing date: 1936-04-01
Publication date: 1937-01-05
Anticipated expiration: 1954-01-05

Description

Jan. 5; 1937. A. R. SCHOENKY MANUFACTURE OF SHOES 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed April 1, 1936 Jan. 5, 1937. A. R. SCHOENKY 2,066,424

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed April 1, 1936 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Jan. 5, 1937 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Application April 1, 1936, Serial No. 72,132

6 Claims.

This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes, and more particularly to the treatment of the marginal portions of uppers lasted over insoles. The invention is herein illustrated by reference to operations performed at the toe end of a shoe, but it is to be understood that it is not thus limited in its applicability.

In lasting the toe ends of shoes, especially when an adhesive is used to secure the uppers in lasted position, it has sometimes been the practice tofasten to the shoe over the marginal portion of the upper a retaining device for holding the upper in lasted position until the adhesive has dried or set, and thereafter to remove the retaining device from the shoe. It has also sometimes been the practice to subject the margin of the upper, immediately after it has been wiped inwardly over the insole, to heat and pressure in order to accelerate the drying or setting of the adhesive and to eliminate wrinkles in the overwiped margin. The present invention provides a method whereby are secured certain advantages of both such prior practices. In carrying out the method in the manner herein i1- lustrated a retaining device is fastened to the shoe over the margin of the upper around the toe end of the shoe bottom while the margin is held in lasted position by toe-lasting wipers, thus insuring against any possible displacement of the upper from lasted position when the wipers are withdrawn from the shoe, and thereafter the retaining device is heated to assist in eliminating any wrinkles in the margin of the upper which it engages as well as to accelerate the drying or setting of the adhesive sothat the device may be promptly removed from the shoe. As further herein illustrated, the retaining device is fastened to the shoe by tacks which penetrate through the margin of the upper and into the insole and which also are heated, so that heat is conducted by the tacks directly to the adhesive in locations immediately adjacent thereto. Further insurance is thus afforded that the upper will be held securely by the adhesive when the retaining device is removed.

The toe portion of an upper usually comprises several layers of upper materials, including a toe box and a lining, and in the practice of the method of this invention the margins of all the layers except the outer layer may, in accordance with a common procedure, be trimmed so that the overlasted margin of the outer layer will lie, at least throughout the greater portion of its width, next to the insole. As herein illustrated, however, the margins of all the layers are lasted inwardly over the insole and the tacks penetrate through the several layers so that they conduct heat not only to portions of the adhesive lying between the different layers and between the inner layer and the insole, but also to portions of the toe box. If the toe box, therefore,

is of that kind which is softened by a solvent, 7

the heat conducted by the tacks accelerates evaporation of the solvent and the hardening of the margin of the toe box as well as the drying or setting of the adhesive applied for lasting pur-- poses.

The invention will now be more particularly described with reference to the accompanying drawings and thereafter pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings,

Fig.. 1 is a plan view of toe wipers which may be utilized to apply a retaining device to a shoe in the practice of the novel method, showing such a device mounted in recesses in the wipers;

Fig. 2 is a section on the line 11-11 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a vertical sectional view showing portions of a pulling-over and toe-lasting machine in which the wipers are included and which may be conveniently used in the practice of the method;

Figs. 4 and 5 are views similar to Fig. 3 illustrating difierent stages of the lasting operation;

Fig. 6 illustrates the heating of the upper-retaining device and the tacks after the lasting operation by means convenient for that purpose; and

Fig. 7 shows the forepart of the shoe with the retaining device fastened on the toe end thereof.

The pulling-over and toe-lasting machine portions of which are shownin Figs. 3, 4 and 5' and which, as above stated, may be conveniently used in the practice of the novel method, is constructed substantially as shown and described in United States Letters Patent No. 1,980,435, granted on November 13, 1934 upon an application of C. F. and A. F. Pym. The last and shoe are supported bottom downward in the machine by a plurality of pins 2 extending through holes in the insole into sockets in the bottom of the last. The upper is pulled over the last by a plurality of grippers 4, only two of which are herein shown, and while it is held under tension by the grippers it is wiped downwardly around the toe end of the last by a toe bandfi. Under the toe end of the shoe is a tack block 8 having therein a plural ity of driver passages in which tack drivers ID are movable to drive tacks upwardly into the shoe bottom. The tack block is moved upwardly to press the marginal portion of the insole.

against the last, as illustrated in Fig. 3, while the upper is held under tension by the grippers,

along the faces of the wipers to bring its driver passages into alinement with openingsgl 4r -;which extend through the wipers. Thereafter the drivers. are operated to drive'thetacks upwardly through these openings intothe shoe bottom to fasten the overwiped margin of theupper in lasted position. For a more,.complete under.

standing of the construction and operationof the 7 machine the above-mentioned Letters" Patent may be consulted. .I H i To assist in the practice ofthe'niethod of this invention the wipers IZareprovided in their.

top faces, near their wipingedges, with shallow recesses toireceive an uppereretaining device comprising two thin metal plates-l6 and [8 ,the'

top faces of which are flush with the top faces ofjthe wipers-when the plates are inthe recesses. The plates [Band 18 have openings 20 arranged to ,alinet centrally with the openings l4 in the wipersto'receive the shanks of the driven ztacks.

, the openings 20 being of smaller diameterthan the heads of thetac'ks. Each p1atel6'andl8 is beveled on its lower face around? :each. of the openings 20, asshown at 2'2 (Fig.1'2), to guide the point of the tack into the opening. .These bevels' cause the tacks, initially tipped in the driver passages as shown in'l.=ig.:3,' to assume positions substantially perpendicular to theshoe bottom, and accordingly-the means disclosed in V the above-mentioned Letters. Patent for moving the tack block 8 lengthwise of the shoe t'o bring the tacks into perpendicularrelation to;the shoe bottom as they are'being driven isipreferably omitted. Theplatel8 has 'a projection 24' (Fig. 1) the edgeof which is curved and fits'in a complementally curved recess in the edg'e of the plate Hi, the two platescorrespondin'ginthis re-'- spect to the shape of the wipersben'eath them,

, and one of the openings 20'is located in the projection 24 at'the axisof swinging movement of under the shoe'bottom. As' illustrated in Fig. 1,

the wipers [2. It will be understood that the plates l6 and l8 are-carried inwardly over the insole by the'wipers and have themselves a: wiping'action onthemargin of the upper, and that whenthe tacks are driven they fasten theplates to the shoe in pressure-applying" relation to the margin of the upper, the relation-ofthe plates andof the'ta'cks -t to the shoe being illustrated in Fig. 7. In thereturn 'of the parts of the machine to their starting positionsthe-wipers I2 are moveddownwardly, togetherfwith' the toe band 6, by the cam-operated meanscontrolling these parts, so that the wipers clear the plates 16 and 3 before the wipers are "retracted" from the upper-retainingplatesj do not extend the fulllengths of the'rows of openings inthe wipers,

although" if desired the'cojnstructionmay be" such that they will doso. If= openings l4 are located beyond the ends of the plates 'as shown, tacks may be driven through these openings into the shoe or, as herein illustrated, such tacks maybe" I omitted by eliminating -feed-f.oftacks to the corresponding driver passages in the tack block 8.

After the toe of the shoe has been lasted as above described, the upper-retaining plates l6 and I8 and the tacks t are subjected to the action of heat. For this purpose there may be conveniently utilized apparatus such as shown in Fig. 6, comprising a column 26 on the top of which is a heating plate 28 having therein a. curved recess 30. Projecting downwardlyfrom the lower face of the plate 28 is a holder 32 "for an electrical heating unit 34. The shoe is supported with the upper-retaining plates and the tacks against "the lower face of the hot plate 28 adjacent to the -recess 3!] by two resilient curved rods 36 provided with a felt pad 38 for engaging the top of the toe of the shoe and holding the shoe pressed up toward the plate 28. The rods 36 are supported by a holder 40 which is held on the plate 28 byset screws 42. While provision is thus made in the construction shown for treating only one shoe at a time, other shoe supports and corresponding recesses 30 in the plate 28 may be provided if desired.

It will be understood that the heat conducted through the plates l6 and 3 has a shrinking action on the marginal portion of the upper held under pressure by the plates and thus assists in eliminating any wrinkles in the upper, especially around the endof the toe, to provide a smooth seat for the outsole, and also that such heat as is conducted to the adhesive for securing-the upper in lasted position serves to accelerate the drying or setting of the adhesive. .The'tacks ex-3 tending through theflupper intothe insole are especially effective in conducting heat directly to the adhesive in locations immediately adjacent thereto. The shoe, therefore, may beremoved from the heating apparatus after a comparatively short time, and the upper-retaining plates and the tacks may then be removed from the shoe without any danger. that the upper will be displaced from lasted position.

In accordance with theprocedure herein illustrated the marginal portions of a plurality of layers of upper materials, comprising a lining 44 (Fig.3) and a toe box 46 in addition to the outer layer 48 of leather, are lasted inwardly over the insoleby'the wipers l2, and the tacks penetrate. through all these layers and into the insole.

margins ofthe several layers and preferablyalso to the margin of the insole; Rubber latex; pyroxylin cement or any other suitableadhesive,

although preferably of a' kind adapted to be dried or set by heat, may be used for the purpose.- By conducting heat directly to portions of the adhesive between the'lining and theinsole and between the lining and the toe box, as'well as to that between the toe box and the uppenthe tacks contribute efiectively to the rapid drying or setting of the adhesive locatedmore or less remote from the plates l6 and I8. Heat also is conducted by the tacks to portions of themar'gin of the toe box and if the toe box is of a kind adaptedto be softened by a solvent, suchheattends"to" It will be understood that-prior tothetoe-lasting operation an adhesive is applied to the trimmed flush with the portion to which heat and pressure are applied by the plates after the plates have been removed from the shoe.

Having described the invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1'. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lasting the marginal portion of an upper inwardly over an insole, fastening an upper-retaining-device to the shoe upon the marginal portion of the upper, heating said upper-retaining device, and thereafter removing said device from the shoe.

2. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lasting the marginal portion of an end of an upper inwardly over an insole with an adhesive between the upper and the insole, fastening an upper-retaining device to the shoe in pressure-applying relation to the marginal portion of the upper, and thereafter heating said upper-retaining device to assist in eliminating wrinkles in the upper and to accelerate the drying or setting of the adhesive.

3. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lasting the marginal portion of an upper inwardly over an insole with an adhesive between the upper and the insole, fastening an upper-retaining device upon the marginal portion of the upper by fastenings penetrating through the upper and into the insole,

'heating said upper-retaining device and the fastenings, and. thereafter removing said device and the fastenings from the shoe.

4. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lasting the marginal portions of a plurality of layers of upper materials, including a toe box adapted to be hardened by heat, inwardly over the toe end of an insole, fastening an upper-retaining device upon the marginal portion of the outer layer of the materials by fastenings penetrating through the several layers and into the insole, and heating said upper-retaining device and the fastenings to cause heat to be conducted through said device to the outer layer of the materials and through the fastenings to the marginal portion of the toe box.

5. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lasting the marginal portions of a plurality of layers of upper materials inwardly over the toe end of an insole with an adhesive between the different layers and between the inner layer and the insole, fastening an upper-retaining device upon the marginal portion of the outer layer of the materials by fastenings penetrating through the several layers and into the insole, heating said upper-retaining device and the fastenings to cause heat to be conducted through said device to the outer layer of the materials and through the fastenings to the adhesive, and thereafter removing said device and the fastenings from the shoe.

6. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lasting the marginal portion of the toe end of an upper inwardly over an insole with an adhesive between the upper and the insole by the use of toe wipers and also by use of said Wipers applying upper-retaining plates to the marginal portion of the upper, fastening said plates to the shoe by driving tacks through the upper and into the insole While the upper is held in lasted position by the wipers, heating said plates and the tacks to cause heat to be conducted by the plates to the marginal portion of the upper and by the tacks to the adhesive, and thereafter removing said plates and the tacks from the shoe.

AUGUST R. SCI-IOENKY.