US2061700A - Method of and machine for making shoes - Google Patents

Description

NOV. 24, 1936. v 5 um-:5 2,061,700

METHOD OF AND MACHINE FOR MAKING SHOES Filed 0st. 5. 1935 Patented Nov. 24, 1936 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD OF AND MACHINE FOR MAKING SHOES Application October 3, 1935, Serial No. 43,349

12 Claims.

This invention pertains to shoe manufacture, and relates more specifically to an improved method of and apparatus for use in preshaping parts of a shoe upper, for example, the heel pertion of the quarter lining, preparatory to lasting, the present invention constituting an improve ment upon that described in the copending application of Benjamin S. Steiner, Serial No. 751,173, filed November 2, 1934.

In said application it is pointed out that by reason of the fact that the rear or heel end of a shoe last is of convex curvature, whereas the quarter lining is cut from substantially fiat or sheet-like materials, such as cloth or leather, it

has customarily been necessary to apply a very severe stretching stress to the rear end of the upper in order to conform the lining material to the last, and that even though great care be used in the lasting operation, the lining does not always lie snugly against the inner surface of the counter and tends during use to wrinkle and sag. In the aforesaid application there is disclosed a novel method of preparing an upper in readiness for lasting, which includes the step of preshaping the heel end of the quarter lining prior to assembling the latter with other parts of the upper, such preshaping being accomplished by so stretching the material of the lining as to produce a large permanent dimple or concavity in the inner face of the lining, so that the latter approximates the curvature of the rear end of the last. Said application also discloses apparatus designed for use in the practice of such method.

The apparatus so disclosed comprises a die support carrying a die, including a bottom member, and spaced relatively yieldable side plates, said bottom member and side plates collectively defining a die cavity into which the lining material is thrust by a reciprocating plunger, while the material is held taut and spanning the die cavity. In the device of said application the die cavity is relatively shallow so that the lining material bottoms on the floor of the cavity during the advance of the plunger, and to avoid breakage of parts the die support was arranged to yield in response to excess pressure, although such ability to yield lessens the effectiveness of the applied stretching force necessary for deforming the lining.

Further, in order to hold the work in position, the device of the prior application includes work supports and presser feet designed to engage the material at spaced points at opposite sides respectively of the die cavity, but the opposing faces of the work supporting members and presser feet were substantially fiat and uniformly spaced apart. However, in accordance with certain modes of preparing quarter linings, the lining is made in two parts with a seam disposed at one 5 side of the center or heel portion of the lining, and if such unsymmetrically disposed seam be placed between the work support and presser member at one side of the die cavity, the Work is more firmly gripped at this abnormally thick 10 point than at the opposite side, with consequent tendency for the work to slip out of proper registering relation to the advancing plunger.

In the aforesaid application the apparatus is disclosed as provided with heating means for 15 heating die to assist in setting the material, but since the material is in contact with the die surfaces but a very short time, such heating of the die has not been found sufficient in all cases to produce the desired permanent set in the ma- 20 terial.

In accordance with the present invention, the above difficulties are overcome and the operation of the machine is improved and made more certain, and the work produced more perfect and uniform. Furthermore, by the employment of a work support such as hereinafter more fully described, in accordance with the present invention, and by preshaping the heel end of the counter lining as suggested, it is possible to make a two part lining with a straight .seam joining the parts, whereas it has previously been customary to fit the parts along a curved line at the seam in order to conform the lining with any degree of closeness to the rear of the last.

In the accompanying drawing, wherein a desirable embodiment of the invention is illustrated by way of example,

Fig. 1 is a fragmentary vertical section, partly in side elevation and partly broken away, showing the present improvement applied to a machine of the type disclosed in the aforementioned copending application, the machine being shown with the plunger at the upper limit of its stroke;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary front elevation of the machine also showing the plunger at the upper limit of its stroke;

Fig, 3 is a fragmentary vertical section substantially at the transverse mid-plane of the die cavity, showing the plunger as fully advanced into the die cavity;

Fig. 4 is a bottom plan view of one of the improved work supporting members; and

Fig. 5 is a plan view of a laterally seamed quarter lining as it appears stretched.

Referring to the drawing, the numeral I designates a portion of the frame of the machine, said frame including the projecting die-supporting bracket member 2, and a second bracket 3 overhanging the bracket 2 and designed to provide guiding means for the plunger which cooperates with the die. The bracket 2 is provided with a boss having therein a vertical bore 4 (Fig. 1) which receives the sliding stem 5 of a vertically movable die-head 6. This stem 5 rests upon a rigid, normally fixed supporting screw 1, the latter having screw-threaded enbefore being gagement with a part of the bracket 2 andbeing provided with a knurled head 8, by means of which it may be turned to adjust the vertical position of the stem 5. A lock nut 9 is provided for holding the parts in adjusted position.

The die-head 6 is furnished with a pin Ill projecting downwardly through a suitable opening in a part of the bracket 2, thereby to prevent the die-head 6 from turning about the axis of its stem 5. Preferably the die-head 6 is furnished with a cavity for the reception of a heating element II, such for example as an electrical heating coil supplied with current through a flexible conductor I2.

The upper part of the die-head 6 is shaped to provide the central member 13 (Fig. 3) of the die assemblage. This member I3 is provided in its upper surface with a depression or recess I4 which, as shown in Fig. l, is preferably of substantially trapezium form. This recess extends laterally across the entire thickness of the part l3 so that it is open at its opposite sides. The die assemblage also comprises plate-like members l5 and I5 (Fig. 3) which constitute the side walls for this recess. The members l5 and I6 are arranged to slide laterally, each on a pair of pins I1 and I8, respectively, secured to the central die member l3 forwardly and rearwardly respectively of the cavity l4. These pins I1 and I8 are furnished with adjustable nuts I9 and (Fig. 2) at their outer ends and are encircled by coiled springs 2| and 22, respectively, which resiliently urge the plates l5 and I6 toward the central member II! of the die assemblage. Preferably the inner surfaces of the plates l5 and I6 are recessed as shown at 23 and 24 (Fig. 3) respectively, so that the die cavity is somewhat wider than the thickness of the central member l3, although such recesses in plates I5 and I6 are not necessary to the practice of the invention.

The bracket 2 supports a pair of laterally spaced upright members 25 and 25 (Fig. 2), respectively, disposed at opposite sides of the die assemblage, and these members in turn support a work table 26 having an opening at its center into which the upper parts of the plates l5 and I6 project (Fig. 3). This table 26 carries a pair of work supporting plates 21 and 28, respectively. These plates are attached to the table in any desired manner, and preferably have knurled or corrugated upper surfaces 29 (Fig. 4), thereby to obtain a firm grip on the work. Preferably the work supporting plates 21 and 28 are furnished with shallow channels or grooves 30 in their knurled surfaces for the reception of abnormally thick portions of the work, as hereinafter more fully described.

2. In combination in a machine for preforming a laterally seamed shoe lining part, said machine These presser feet may, if desired, have knurled under surfaces, although this is not necessary, the under surfaces of these presser feet being normally substantially parallel to the upper surfaces of the work supporting plates, and adapted to grip the work between them and such supporting plates. The presser feet 3i and 32 are secured to the lower ends of vertically slidable rods 33 and 34, respectively, aranged to slide vertically in bores in vertically elongate bosses 35 and 36 carried by the plunger supporting head 31. Ihe front faces of the rods are slabbed off or flattened and engaged by the ends of setscrews 33 and 34*, respectively, which prevent the rods and presser feet from turning. Coiled springs 38 and 39 encircle the rods 33 and 34, respectively, and determine the degree of pressure to be exerted by the presser feet as the plunger supporting member 31 moves downwardly. The tension of the springs 38 and 33 may be varied by means of adjusting nuts 40 and 4| at the upper ends of the rods 33 and 34.

The plunger supporting member 31 is secured to a vertically sliding stem 42 which is arranged to slide in a vertical bore in a boss 43 carried by the bracket 3, and the plunger 42 is caused to move up and down by means of a lever arm 44 to which the plunger is connected by means of a link 45. The arm 44 may be actuated in any suitable manner and by any suitable mechanism, thereby to cause the plunger supporting member 3! to rise and fall, one mechanism suitable for the purpose being disclosed in the aforesaid application of Benjamin S. Steiner, but so far as the present invention is concerned, the precise means for moving the plunger is immaterial.

The plunger support 31 has a part 46 which carries the plunger assembly which is secured, preferably removably, to the member 31 in any desired manner, and which comprises the part 41 having therein a cavity for the reception of a heating element 48, such as an electrical coil, to which current is supplied by the flexible conductor 49. To the part 41 is secured the plunger 50, which cooperates with the die cavity in shaping the work. This plunger (in side elevation, as shown in Fig. l) is of a contour more or less similar to that of the die cavity, while in its front elevation it is of a contour such as illustrated in Fig. 3, having a smoothly rounded lower surface, and preferably being of a maximum width substantially equalling the normal minimum width of the die cavity.

In Fig. 5 there is illustrated at L a shoe quarter lining comprising the parts 5| and 52 united by a seam at 53. When such a quarter lining is to be preshaped prior to lasting, in accordance with the present method and by the present apparatus, it is disposed upon the work supporting members 21 and 28 so that its central portion is symmetrical with respect to the die cavity, the location of the die cavity when the lining is properly positioned being indicated by the broken lines at 54 in Fig. 5. The abnormally thick portion of the lining member produced by the overlapping of the parts 5| and 52 at the location of the seam 53 is received in the channel 30 of the work supporting member 28, so that it does not interfere with the proper gripping of the work between said work supporting member and the corresponding presser foot 32. Both of the work supports 21 and 23 are preferably provided with channels 30 in order to facilitate the manipulation of right and left linings.

After the material has been placed upon the work supporting members as just described, and assuming that the die assemblage and the plunger assemblage have both been heated to the desired temperature, the plunger is now moved down so as to advance into the die cavity, thereby stretching the work where the latter spans the upper part of the die cavity, pushing the work down into the die cavity, as indicated in Fig. 3. If desired, the plunger may be caused to dwell for an appreciable time while within the cavity, so as to impart a permanent set to the material through the cooperative action of the heated plunger and die. Since the side walls I5 and I6 of the die cavity are free to move away from each other as the plunger descends, there is no danger of cutting the work when the latter is forced down into the die cavity, the cavity accommodating itself to the thickness of the material so that the latter is not abnormally strained, abraded or broken.

In the present arrangement it will be noted that, at its lower limit of movement, the plunger does not bottom against the floor of the die cavity, so that there is no danger of injury to the parts by contact of the plunger and die, and thus it is not necessary to mount the die assemblage to yield downwardly. As the plunger forces the material down into the cavity in the unyielding die, the full action of the plunger is available for stretching the material, and more uniform results are attainable than when the die is capable of yielding away from the plunger. However, by adjusting the rigid supporting screw 1, the initial position of the die with respect to the plunger may be varied and thus the degree of stretch imparted to the material may be predetermined.

Since the work is in intimate contact with the die much longer than and throughout a greater extent than with the die surfaces, the heating of the plunger is much more effective in setting the material than when the die alone is heated. It is contemplated that only the plunger need be heated for efiective results, although it is preferred, as herein disclosed, to heat both the die and the plunger.

In accordance with the present invention it is possible to dispense with the troublesome step, previously deemed essential, of cutting the several linings so as to have curved edges and then carefully assembling them and uniting them to produce a concave effect. By the present method it is possible to cut the parts with straight edges and sew them together with a plain fiat seam, depending wholly upon the subsequent stretching of the parts in accordance with the present pro-- cedure as above described, to impart the desired concavity at the rear of the lining. This simplifies the operation, makes it less expensive, and makes it possible to obtain more uniform results than in accordance with previous practice.

I claim:

1. A machine for preforming a laterally seamed shoe lining part comprising a die having a cavity therein, a supporting surface at each side of the cavity upon which the lining material may be disposed, one at least of said surfaces having a channel for the reception of the laterally disposed seam of the lining, presser feet cooperable with the work supporting surfaces to hold the lining in taut condition spanning the cavity, and a movable plunger operative to force the lining material into the cavity.

2. In combination in a machine for preforming a laterally seamed shoe lining part, said machine comprising a die having an elongate cavity therein, a plunger operative to press the lining part into said cavity thereby to bulge the lining part, work supporting surfaces at each side of the cavity, each supporting surface having a curved channel therein for the reception of a lateral scam in the lining, clamping means operative to clamp the lining against the respective supporting surfaces, and plunger actuating means operative to advance the plunger into the die cavity.

3. In combination in a machine for preshaping a shoe lining part, said machine comprising a die having yieldable walls defining a cavity between them, a plunger operative to force the lining material into the cavity between said walls thereby to bulge the lining material, of means for heating the plunger, means operative to grip the lining at points outside of and at opposite sides respectively of the die cavity and to hold it in taut condition spanning the cavity, and means to advance the plunger into the cavity.

4. In combination in a machine for preshaping the quarter lining of a shoe, said machine comprising a substantially unyielding support carrying a die having spaced relatively yieldable walls defining a cavity between them, of means operative to grip the lining at spaced points outside of and at opposite sides respectively of the cavity and to hold it in taut condition spanning the cavity, a plunger for pressing the lining material into the die cavity, the plunger being of a width substantially equal to the normal width of the cavity, means for heating the plunger and die, and means for advancing the plunger into the cavity thereby to force the lining material into the latter.

5. In combination in a machine for preshaping sheet material, said machine comprising a die including a central member having a recess therein, a substantially unyielding but adjustable support for the die, plates disposed respectively at opposite sides of the central member and constituting spaced side walls for the recess thereby defining a die cavity, of work gripping means at opposite sides of the recess operative to grip the sheet material and hold it taut spanning the recess, springs urging the respective plates toward the central die member, a plunger movable into and out of the cavity, the plunger having a rounded advancing end, means for heating the plunger, and plunger actuating means operative to advance the plunger into the die cavity.

6. In combination in a machine for preshaping the heel end of the quarter lining of a shoe, said machine comprising a die having a central member provided with substantially parallel sides and with a recess of substantially trapezium shape in its edge, a pair of side plates normally disposed in contact with the parallel sides respectively of said central member, springs normally urging the respective side plates toward the central member, said side plates forming relatively yieldable side walls for the recess, of gripping means operative to hold the lining in taut condition spanning the recess, a plunger movable into and out of the recess, the plunger being of such width and contour as to fit snugly within the recess when the latter is of normal width, means for moving the plunger into the recess to a limited extent such that it can not engage the bottom of the recess, and substantially un yielding means supporting the die.

7. A machine for preshaping the heel end of the quarter lining of a shoe, said machine comprising a die having a central member provided with a recess of substantially trapezium contour, a pair of side members disposed respectively at opposite sides of the central member, said side members having recessed surfaces constituting side walls for the recess in the central member and cooperating with the latter to form a die cavity, a plunger of a width substantially equal to the normal width of the die cavity, an adjustable, substantially unyielding support for the die, and plunger actuating means operative to advance the plunger into the recess, the advance movement of the plunger being insufficient to cause it to engage the bottom of the recess.

8. In combination in a machine for preshaping the heel end of the quarter lining of a shoe, said machine comprising a normally fixed but vertically adjustable and substantially unyieldable support for a die, said die having a central member provided with a downwardly directed recess, a pair of side members disposed respectively at opposite sides of the central member, said side members having surfaces constituting side walls for the recess, a plunger of a width substantially equalling the normal width of the recess, actuating means for moving the plunger into the recess, and means operative to hold the lining in taut condition spanning the recess as the plunger enters the latter, the recess being of such depth relatively to the path of movement of the plunger that the latter never contacts the floor of the recess.

9. In combination in a machine for preshaping the heel end of the quarter lining of a shoe upper, said machine comprising a normally fixed unyielding support carrying a die, the die having a central member provided with a recess, and a pair of relatively yieldable side members forming walls for the recess, supporting means at opposite sides of the recess collectively constituting a work support, a plunger movable into and out of the recess, and work holding means operative to press the work forcibly against the work support as the plunger is advanced into the recess, the Work support having a depression therein for the reception of an abnormally thick portion of the lining.

10. In combination in a machine for shaping a laterally seamed quarter lining for a shoe upper, said machine having a die including a member provided with a recess, the top and one side at least of said recess being open, a closure memher for the open side of the recess, resilient means normally urging the closure member toward the recess, a plunger operative to force the material into the recess thereby to stretch the lining and to produce a permanent bulge therein, and gripping means operative to hold the material to be shaped in taut condition spanning the recess, said gripping means having opposed surfaces, one at least of which is provided with a channel for the reception of the seam ridge in the lining.

11. A machine for preshaping a part of a shoe upper, said machine comprising a die having a recess therein, a heated plunger movable into said recess to force shoe upper material spanning the recess into the recess, thereby to stretch and bulge the material, actuating means operative to move the plunger into the recess, and work holding means comprising a part moving in timed relation to the plunger and in advance of the latter operative to engage the material and to hold it under tension as the plunger enters the recess, said work holding means comprising a part having a channel therein for the reception of an abnormally thick portion of the lining.

12. Method of making shoes which comprises as steps preparing a quarter lining by seaming together two complemental, substantially flat parts having straight overlapping edges by a substantially straight seam disposed to one side of the central line of the heel portion of the lining, and subjecting the seamed lining prior to lasting, to pressure so applied as to stretch and permanently bulge the material and to conform it substantially to the contour of the heel end of a shoe last.

FREDERICK S. GLINES.

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