US2013835A - Method and means for molding edge portions of material - Google Patents

Description

Sept. 10, ELLA METHOD AND MEANS FOR MOLDING EDGE PORTIONS OF MATERIAL Filed July 3, 1933 3 Sheets-Sheet l 20 ATTORNEY RIAL P 1935- F. PAPARELLA METHOD AND MEANS FOR MOLDING EDGE PORTIONS OF MATE Filed July 3, 1933 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 N l/EN TOR vvozm vcxkax'i A ATTORNEY.

Sept. 10, 1935. F. PAPARELLA 2,013,835

METHOD AND MEANS FOR MOLDING EDGE PORTIONS OF MATERIAL Filed July 3, 1933 5. Sheets-Sheet 3 l \IGLTFTMF Patented Sept. 19, 1935 UNETE STAT Zfiiatid METHOD AND MEANS FOR MOLDENG EDGE PORTIONS OF MATERIAL 22 Claims.

This invention relates to garment pressing methods and devices and particularly to a process and apparatus for molding and shaping edge portions of multi-ply material whereby to reprodues in the material, the pattern of the garment.

In the manufacture of clothing considerable difiiculty has been experienced in shaping edge portions of material and this problem has been most troublesome in the formation of the lapel and collar portions of coats and overcoats. Heretofore it has apparently been impossible, as a practical matter, to shape lapels and collars to conform exactly to the outline of the pattern and this problem has been a matter of concern to clothing manufacturers as it is to the relatively minute details of the shape of those portions of the garment that the skill of the designer is chiefly directed and to which the style of the garment is largely attributable. the carefully considered details of the pattern have commonly appeared as a distortion in the edge contour of the material particularly at the point of the lapel, a substantial departure from the pattern in the angle of the notch separating the lapel and collar and a discrepancy involved in the manual operation of folding or turning back the exposed surface of the lapel and collar which heretofore has been an operation involving considerable skill.

I have found that the above-noted difficulties can be obviated and a lapel and collar produced which conforms exactly to the edge contour of the pattern by initially steaming the material to render it plastic and thereafter externally confining and crowding the edge of the material to the shape of the pattern whereby to produce a billowing or undulating of the surplus material so confined. I then apply pressure in a direction normal to the surfaces of the material whereby simultaneously to press the surfaces and to mold the edge portions by resisting the resultant extrusion or lateral spreading of the material at the edges caused partly by the flattening of the billows. The effectiveness of this edge molding operation is enhanced by a further step in my method wherein, while maintaining or even increasing the pressure between the edge of the material and its confining body, I pass that body transversely of the edge of the material to iron the same.

The lapel and collar of a finished garment which is ready to wear comprises the outer and inner surfaces of material which are bounded at one edge by the molded seam referred to above and at the other edge by the crease or fold on Deviations from Canada January 21, 1933 which the material is turned back to form the exposed lapel and collar surface. My method secures the proper shaping of the exposed surface in its entirety by molding the seamed edge, pressing the outer and inner surfaces and simultaneously initiating the fold in the proper position relative to the shaped edge, thereby mechanically defining the lapel and collar in the exact shape desired. The fold'initiating step I have accomplished by forming an elongated impression in the material while its edge portion is being molded so that, as the edge is brought to the desired contour and the surfaces are being pressed, the position of the fold in relation to the shaped edge is mechanically predetermined. 1

Any suitable apparatus may be employed for carrying out my novel process but I have devised novel apparatus which I have found to be particularly well adapted for that purpose and which I have made the subject matter of my prior copending application, filed October 13, 1932, Serial Number 637,622, of which the present application is a continuation in part.

It is the object of my present invention not only to provide a method of molding multi-ply mate- 25 rial which is adapted for use to mold coats. overcoats and the like but also to improve on the apparatus disclosed in my above-noted application. This latter object I have secured by providing novel upper and lower presser members which can be incorporated in an ordinary pressing machine and which, as will appear, are so adapted for use with my novel mold as to improve in the operation of the mold over that obtained by the use of my moldwith common forms of pressing machines now on the market.

In the drawings:-

Fig. l is a perspective view of the forepart and facing of a garment shown inside out during the process of manufacture;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the garment portions of Fig. 1 shown after the turning operation;

Fig. 3 shows a coat completely made and ready for my novel lapel and collar molding process;

Fig. l is a vertical sectional view taken on the line .--l of Fig. 1;

Fig. 5 is a plan view of a completely made lapel and collar, shown disposed adjacent my novel mold which is formed in the shape of the pattern, to indicate the departure of the lapel and collar portions from the desired edge contour;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of a lapel and collar portion of a garment during an initial stage in the molding process;

Fig. 7 is a plan view of the finished lapel and collar portion after molding, showing the position of the fold defining impression;

Fig. 8 is a sectional elevation view on the line 8-8 of Fig. 6;

Fig. 9 is a View similar to Fig. 8 with the parts shown at a later stage in the method;

Fig. 10 is a perspective view of my novel supporting table and upper presser member adapted for use with my molds;

Fig. 11 is a plan view of the supporting table;

Fig. 12 is an elevation view, partly broken away, of the parts shown in Fig. 11;

Fig. 13 is a sectional elevation view taken on the line i3-l3 of Fig. 11 but showing the upper presser member closed on the material adjacent the mold;

Fig. 14 is an enlarged sectional elevation view of a detail of Fig. 13, and

Fig. 15 is an enlarged sectional elevation view taken on the line i 5-45 of Fig. 11.

Referring to the drawings and particularly to Fig. 1, the lapel of a garment is usually made of two plies of material, the forepart i extending from the shaped edge 2 to the edge 3 where the forepart joins the back of the garment in a seam, and a second ply 4 called the facing and extending from the edge 5 to the edge where it is joined to the lining i. At the stage of manufacture illustrated in Fig. l, the lapel is insideout, the canvas iii, usually padded, has been caught to the inner surface (now exposed) of the forepart I by stitching H which catches but does not pass completely through the forepart (Fig. l); the forepart and facing have been superimposed and cut to form the edges 2 and 5 and the edge seam H has been stitched through the forepart I, facing 4 and a piece of tape i4 commonly provided to prevent stretching of the material at the edge. As illustrated in Fig. 4, the canvas it terminates short of the seam i2 and the tape It is caught to the canvas by a row of stitching 55. The collar has not yet been attached and will later be joined to the lapel along the rough edges indicated at it.

I am assuming that the lapel is being made of heavy overcoat material and that the designer has chosen a sharply pointed lapel as best suited for the style of garment being made, as is common in double breasted overcoats, and I have illustrated the sharp point desired at 32A in Fig. '7 which shows the finished lapel after having been molded in accordance with my invention. The line of stitching i2 forming the seam is made to conform as nearly as possible to the desired shape and for that purpose is brought as nearly as possible to the sharp point illustrated at 28.

The forepart and facing, after being joined at the seam I 2, are turned right side out as shown in Fig. 2, and in this turning operation the operative tries to shape the lapel to makeit conform as nearly as possible to the pattern. To do this the cloth must be manually forced back from the seam IE to bring the seam as nearly as possible to the outer edge of the lapel because, it will be remembered, the seam is made to conform as closely as possible to the outline of the pattern. The material is usually basted progressively as the edge is worked as indicated at ii to hold the material as it is being manipulated and prevent the seam from rolling back as indicated at the unbasted portion 2?. To force out the point of the lapel a sharply pointed implethe shape of the pattern regardless of how care- 5 fully it is performed. The manual pulling of the bulky material causes it to stretch more at some portions than others to produce a wavy contour and it is exceedingly difiicult to force the material back from ths seam evenly at all porlo tions. The point of the lapel will almost inevitably be bulging and rounded rather than sharply pointed as desired due to the practical inability of the operative to completely reverse the pointed seam stitching. Even with the seam cloth l5 partly cut away at the point, the tip will be bulky and under the common pressing operations as practiced heretofore the flattening of the point causes the excess seam cloth to extrude or fiatten out and thereby cause the edge contour of 20 the tip to depart still further from the desired sharp point. The construction of a lapel and the precautions taken in an effort to preserve the shape of the pattern are not described in detail herein as the difficulties involved are well-known 25 to clothing manufacturers and my manner of solving the problem will be fully appreciated by them.

After the turning operation the lapel is frequently given a marginal line of stitching as 30- shown at 22 (Fig. 3) to give the lapel a more dressy appearance and this stitching passes completely through the canvas-padded fore-part and facing, joining those two plies internally. Thereafter the coat is finished, the collar being joined by a seam 23 and the buttonhole 2 1 being formed by cutting through both plies of material and lining the hole with a marginal line of stitching.

After the coat has been completely made, as

indicated in Fig. 3, it is ready for the pressing operations when my invention comes into use.

The specific manner in which the lapel of a completely manufactured coat usually departs from the design of the pattern may well be illustrated by a comparison of the lapel with the mold of my apparatus which is shaped in exact conformity with the pattern. Thus I have illustrated in Fig. 5 a portion of a coat having a lapel 35 and collar 3! resting adjacent a pressing mold 32. edge 33 which, as illustrated more clearly in Fig. 6, comprises a portion 33A shaped to conform to the front edge of the lapel of the attern and a molding edge 33B conforming to the initial edge portion of the collar and separated from the portion 33A by an angular molding portion 330 which is adapted to receive the tip of the lapel and, in accordance with the design of the pattern illustrated, is brought to a sharp point 333). The molding edge 33 also includes the side surfaces of a projecting strip 33E adapted to fit nicely into the notch separating the collar and lapel portions of the pattern. Comparing the contour of the entire molding edge which, stated, exactly conforms to the pattern, wi" the lapel and collar portions 39 and 35 of garment illustrated in Fig. 5, it will be noted that the long edge it of the lapel is wavy and not smoothly curved in conformity with the pati :n. Probably the discrepancies illustrated have arisen through unequal turning back of the material adjacent the edge seam or possibly the material has been stretched more in some places than in oth ers. In sewing the buttonhole l! the operative usually tensions. the cloth considerably at cer- The mold 32 has a molding wall 5O nally tain portions of the edge and the material is also contracted somewhat as a result of the large number of marginal stitches lining the buttonhole. The tip 42 of the lapel will almost invariably be considerably rounded and otherwise misshapen in comparison with the sharp point of the pattern. Furthermore, the degree or inclination of the tip of the lapel in comparison with the position of the collar will very frequently be at variance with the design of the pattern as in icated by the arrow. It will be noted that the edge 49 of the collar not only does not conform to the curvature of the collar molding edge 3318 but is spaced considerably therefrom and it will be found that if the lapel were, for the moment, freed from the molding edge 33A and the edge is of the collar were moved closely against the wall 333 of the mold, the angle of inclination of the tip would involve a still greater departure from the pattern than that illustrated.

To remedy th above-noted discrepancies and to completely re-shape and mold the material into substantially exact conformity with the pattern by the use of pressures applied only exterto the surface of the material my novel method provides for the initial step of thoroughly steaming the material. As is known in the gar" ment pressing art, the effect of steam on garment material is to render it somewhat plastic and easily moldable to the form desired. While the material is in this semi-plastic condition I next manually distribute and crowd the material against and within a confining wall which restricts the edge of the material to the shape desired. Thus, as illustrated in 6, where my method is being employed to shape the lapel Of a garment, I have found that the first step of manipulating thermaterial to bring its edge in snug engagement with the molding wall should preferably be to draw the tip 32 of the lapel well into the corner 33D of the mold and this may be easily accomplished by the use of a thread 58 which has been caught through the tip end 5?. of the lapel prior to the steaming step. Then, after the cloth has been steamed, the thread may be tensioned to draw the tip 32 into the sharp corner and the thread should be secured to maintain the tip in this position. The step of manipulating material to confine it to the shape desired also includes manually moving the material to bring the edge of the lapel closely contiguous to the molding edge 33A of the mold throughout its entire length and the edge 69 of the collar should similarly be moved firmly against the edge 33B of the mold.

When the material has been so steamed and manipulated to position it closely adjacent the moldin edge, it will be found that there is a sur plus of material confined adjacent the molding edge which will cause a billowing or undulating of the material, as illustrated at 6% in Fig. 6. Thus it will be apparent that when the tip of the lapel was crowded into the sharp angular recess 3313 of the mold, an excessive amount of material was disposed throughout the angular portion 33C of the mold, which surplus is illustrated at Bi in Fig. 8. Similarly throughout the entire area of material to be molded there will be a surplus of material which because of the ction of the steam, will undulate as indicated. The next step in my method comprises applying pressure to the upper and lower surfaces of the material to flatten out the billows and initiate a molding pressurebetween the. edge of the mold and the edge of the material through the resultduring the time when the material ing lateral displacement or extrusion of the material at the edges. Thus, as illustrated in Fig. 9, the material has been supported on a suitable flat surface lb and a suitable pressure applying medium H is brought into engagement with the entire top surface of the material, whereby pressure is applied to both surfaces of the material. As a result of this pressure on the surplus material illustrated at E! the material will flatten out, as shown at A, thereby exerting lateral pressure between the side edges so and d5 of the material and the walls 330 of the confining body. If the material be held in this flattened condition for a brief interval during which the pressures are maintained between the sides of the material and the molding walls, it will be found that the material will redistribute itself and will permanently set in its confining walls.

I have found that the effectiveness of my novel method can be further enhanced by an additional ironing step wherein sirmdtaneously with the application of pressure between the edge of the material and the molding wall, the wall is passed transversely of the edge. Thus as indicated by a comparison of Figs. 8 and 9, the confining walls 33 were lowered during the period when the material was being compressed between the upper and lower members H and it. This additional ironing step aids in more sharply defining the edges.

As stated above, the lapel and collar portions will not be reproduced in the garment in exact conformity with the pattern even though the edges be perfectly shaped, unless the lapel and collar is turned back to expose an area which not only conforms exactly with the width of the pattern, but which also reproduces exactly the lapel of the design in the position of the edge of the lapel and collar relative to the body portion of the coat. To insure mechanically that the folded-back portions accord with the design and to eliminate the necessity for a skillful and careful manual operation in this respect, I provide that simultaneously with the molding of the edge and is plastic under the influence of the steaming step, the gar ment is impressed with an elongated indentation disposed at a predetermined distance from the molded edge whereby to render the lapel and collar easily foldable along the grooved portions and to initiate the fold at the desired position. Thus, as indicated in Fig. '7, an impression to is made in the garment at a predetermined dis-- tance A from the inner extremity of the notch separating the lapel and collar and at the proper angle relative to the edge 46A of the lapel to provide a fold in the desired position.

With a garment molded in accordance with my novel method it will be found that the edges 66A and 39A of the lapel and collar respectively have been brought in substantially exact conformity to the pattern and will retain their shape when the material is removed'from the mold. Furthermore the point dZA of the lapel. has been transformed from the rounded and comparatively. unsightly tip A12 to a sharp point as desired. It the design of the pattern had provided a rounded tip rather than the sharply pointed one illustrated, the proper curvature would be reproduced in the garment. Furthermore the angle of inclination of the tip indicated by the arrow, has been reproduced in the garment. When the garment is removed it will be found further that the lapel and collar will fold back almost of their the shape imparted to it by the pattern.

As stated above, it is one of the objects of my invention to improve on the apparatus disclosed the provision with my novel molds. The advantages secured by the provision of such members will appear as the description proceeds and will be pointed out in detail hereinafter.

Referring now to Figs. 10l5 inclusive, my pressing machine comprises in eneral a lower presser member or table Hi5, suitably mounted, which is adapted to support and removably position one or a plurality of pressing molds in operat1ve position. As indicated in the drawings, the

ing of a right and left hand lapel and collar portion of two coats of the same style. To that end the table .5538 is provided with a pair of flat supporting surfaces 15!, the left hand one of which is shown in Fig. l0,the right hand surface lei being concealed by the mold assembly H32 which 18 shown in pressing supporting piece 85, as shown in Fig. pose the molding edge wall 04.

The table i553 is provided at its periphery with forming a continuation of the upper exposed cloth supporting surface of the member i535 and to that of a thickend the ledge or plate H0 should be exceeding somewhat the thickness of the material to be molded, the table M30 is provided with three spring supported platforms, two of which are disposed in the back of the machine, as indicated at E25 and 52!, and the third of which is disposed in the front of the machine 'tical wall M; i.

. more extensive than the Secured to the top of the wall I4! is a plate M 2 which projects somewhat over the surface ME? to form therewith a recess adapted to receive a flange Hi3 (Fig. 11) which is cast integrally with the mold The plate M2 provided for the front platform I22 is somewhat corresponding plates removably secure the front flanges M4 the right and left hand Fig. 11.

with an orifice 56! which communicates by suitable piping 562 (Fig. 13) with a steam supply andralso with a second orifice I63 which communicates by means of the piping I64 with any form of suction apparatus well known in the art. It will be noted that the cloth supporting piece 5% is perforated throughout its cloth supporting area as indicated at are and these perforations communicate from the exposed surface of the piece 135 to a chamber Ill which is formed by hollowing out the under surface of thepiece I65. As described in my copending application, the cloth supporting surface of the supporting piece is strengthened and reinforced by a plurality of nubs H2 formed withinthe chamberand on the top surface thereof. These nubs H2 project downwardly to rest on the surface it! of the table and afford support against the high pressures exerted by the upper presser member. By the provision of the chamber Ill, which is continuous throughout the under surface of the supporting piece except for the area occupied by the nubs, I am able to secure distribution of steam or vacuum throughout the entire surface of the supporting piece and yet require but a single point of supply in the surface of the table as indicated at ISI or I53. The dowels I45, above referred to, may be received by recesses drilled in suitable nubs which are positioned to fit over the dowels as shown in Fig. 15, or if desired, the dowels may be of sufficient height to project into corresponding recesses in the upper surface of the chamber HI.

As described above in connection with the method aspect of my invention, it is most desirable to be able to impress the material with an elongated indentation whereby to initiate a fold in the material at the desired position. For this purpose the ledges Hi3 are each provided with a rib I88 which may be cast in the upper surface of the ledge H9 or which may comprise separate elements suitably secured to the surface of the ledge. The steam and drying air should have access to that portion of the material which is to be grooved and for that purpose the ledge or plate H5 is chambered in its under surface as indicated at I82 and provided with suitable strengthening nubs. The chambers I1! and I82 communicate with each other and the plate Iii] is provided with perforations I83 communicating with the chamber I82.

I have found that a more effective operation of impressing the cloth with an indentation can be obtained by providing, in each of the faces I5I of th upper presser member, a groove IBI which is properly positioned in the face I5I to receive its rib I38 when the machine is closed. The grooves it! should preferably be cut in the shape indicated in Fig. 14 and be lined with cloth padding 2 3i which will provide a yielding cushion to cooperate with the ribs I88 and will adapt the rib and groove for efiicient operation with all the various thicknesses of material with which my machine is designed for use.

To secure the material in pressing position with the edge of the material to be molded closely abutting against the molding wall I534 of the mold, each of the molds is provided with two spring pressed clips I95? and I9I secured to the flanges i 33 and M4 respectively of the mold. To draw the point of the lapel firmly into the corresponding notch'of the molding edge I94, the above mentioned piece of thread which is caught through the point of the lapel, is guided through a groove I92 formed in the mold and to spring pressed thread engaging means I93 secured to the rear portions of each of the platforms I20 and IN. The details of the spring clips and thread engaging means are set forth in my prior application.

In conclusion it should be stated that the description of my novel pressing machine has been confined, with the exceptions noted, to the novel features of construction which form the subject matter of my invention and it is to be understood that my device is provided with all of the usual appurtenances which are common to machines of this type. Thus the apparatus shown for conducting steam and drying air to and through the materi l will be constructed as has been found most suitable in the art and will include the usual system of treadles for operating the necessary valves. The device should also include the usual treadles and associated mechanisms for producing varying degrees of pressure between upper presser member I50 and the material to be pressed and such mechanism should be adapted to lock the member I50 into firm engagement with material disposed on the cloth supporting surfaces I05.

With the device constructed as above described, its operation is as follows: The proper mold assemblies for the right and left lapels of garments of one style are first inserted in the machine by inserting the flanges M3 and MG of the molds under the plates M2 of the front and rear platforms. By this arrangement each mold I83 will be secured in elevated position as shown in Fig. 10 and its cloth supporting piece I85 will drop down torest on the supporting surface Itl of the table Iilil with the corresponding edges of the piece m5 and ledge IIU closely abutting each other, being secured in that position by the dowels M5 received by the corresponding recesses in the bottom of the piece I95.

The material is then inserted in pressing position and is molded and pressed in themanner described in my prior apparatus application. When the presser member I59 is lowered to exertmolding pressures on the material the faces i5! of the presser member will first engage the upper exposed surfaces of the molds I233 and depress them as is permitted by the spring pressed platforms I20, IN and I22 which yieldingly hold the molds in elevated position. Further depression of the member I56 will cause initial contact between the faces I5I and the material and the continued downward movement of the member I56 will cause a lateral spreading of the material at its edge portions and a simultaneous further depression of the molds Hi3 until the final pressing closure is reached, in which position the machine is locked.

Fig. 13 indicates the machine locked closed in molding position and it will there be observed that'the upper surface of the ledge IIll forms a continuation of the cloth supporting surface of the member M35 so that the material, represented at 2%, lies in a continuous flat plane from the edge I64 of the mold to the outer edge of the machine. The rib i8!) is disposed in predetermined position relative to the molding edge 5M and it will be noted that when the machine is closed the groove or recess ,l8i in the surface I5I of the member I53 will receive the protuberance in the material formed by the rib I88. I have found that the provision of such a complementary groove improves the formation of the fold defining crease and at the same time insures that the material disposed on either side of the groove will be firmly engaged between the pressing surface I5! and the lower cloth supporting surface. By providing a permanent set of ribs as a part of the ledges H9, I have eliminated the necessity for providing each cloth supporting piece with its individual rib as was contemplated by my prior construction. The variations in distance from the rib I80 to the molding wall l 64 as are required by changes in the style of the garment, can readily be provided for by constructing the different cloth. supporting pieces H35 of the proper compensating widths.

I claim:

1. The method of shaping margins of material to be folded which comprises supporting the material, confining edge portions thereof to the desiredcontour by manipulating the material to position its edge portions contiguous to an edge confining body, passing steam into the material to soften the same and subsequently pressing and molding the material by applying pressure to the surfaces of the material and resisting the lateral displacement of the edge portions thereof resulting from the pressure against the surfaces and simultaneously defining the position of a fold by impressing in the material an indentation to render the material easily foldable at a predetermined distance from its edge.

2. The method of shaping edge portions of material which comprises confining edge portions thereof to the desired contour by manipulating the material to position its edge portions contiguous to an edge confining body, passing steam into the material to soften the same and subsequently pressing and molding the material by applying pressure to the surfaces of the material, resisting the lateral displacement of the edge portions thereof resulting from the pressure against the surfaces of the material and simultaneously passing the edge confining body transversely of the edge of the material.

3. The method of shaping the edge of garment material which comprises confining edge portions of the material, extruding the edge of the material by applying pressure to the surfaces of the material and simultaneously resisting said extrusion and passing the confining body transversely of the edge of the material to iron the same.

4. The method of shaping the edge of garment material which comprises confining edge portions of the material, passing steam through the material, drawing the edge of the material firmly against its confining body, extruding the edge of the material by applying pressure to the surfaces of the material and simultaneously resisting said extrusion and passing the confining body transversely of the edge of the material to iron the same.

5. The method of shaping the points of a garment which comprises placing the material adjacent an edge confining body, externally engaging the material and pressing the portion thereof to be pointed against the said edge confining body throughout substantially the entire edge portion to be molded whereby to compress the edge laterally to substantially the pointed shape desired, and thereafter simultaneously applying pressure to the surface of the material to compress the material in the direction of the pressure thus applied, resisting lateral displacement of the edge portions initiated by said pressure and relatively moving the confining body and material in a direction transverse of the edge of the material whereby to set the point in the shape desired, I

6. The method of shaping the edge of garment material which comprises placing edge portions of the material adjacent an edge confining body, producing pressure against the edge of the material and relatively moving the confining body and the material in a direction transverse of the said edge of the material whereby to mold and iron the edge to the desired shape.

7. The method of shaping the edge of garment material which comprises placing edge portions of the material and an edge pressing body in abutting relationship, producing pressure between the edge of the material and the edge pressing body and relatively moving the pressing body and the material in a direction transverse of the said edge of the material, whereby to mold and iron the edge to the desired shape.

8. The method of shaping the edge of garment material which comprises placing edge portions of the material and an edge pressing body in abutting relationship, producing pressure between the edge of the material and the edge pressing body and moving the pressing body in a direction transverse of the said edge of the material, whereby to mold and iron the edge to the desired shape.

9. The method of shaping the edge of garment material which comprises placing edge portions of the material adjacent an edge confining body, confining the surfaces of the material between substantially parallel pressure-applying surfaces, and thereafter applying pressure to the surfaces of the material, producing pressure against the edge of the material and relatively moving the confining body and the material in a direction transverse of the said edge of the material.

10. The method of shaping the edge of garment material which comprises confining and initially pressing the edge of the material to substantially the lateral shape desired and simultaneously producing undulations in the surface of the material adjacent the confined edge thereof, subsequently increasing the pressure against the edge by applying pressure to the said undulations in the surface of the material and simultaneously relatively moving the confining body and the material in a direction transverse of the edge of the mate rial whereby to press the surface of the material and mold the edge thereof to the desired shape.

11. The method of shaping the edge of garment material which comprises placing the material adjacent an edge confining body, steaming the material to render it plastic, externally engaging the material and pressing plastic edge portions thereof against the said edge confining body and simultaneously producing undulations in the surface of the material adjacent the confined edge thereof, subsequently producing pressure between the edge and its confining body by applying pressure to the said undulations in the surface of the material and simultaneously relatively moving the confining body and the material in a direction transverse of the edge of the material whereby to press the surface of the material and mold the edge thereof to the desired shape.

12. The method of shaping margins of material to be folded which comprises confining and initially pressing the edge of the material to substantially the lateral shape desired and simultaneously producing undulations in a surface of the material adjacent the confined edge thereof, engaging and lightly depressing an elongated portion of one surface of the material disposed in predetermined position relative to the confined edge thereof and thereafter simultaneously increasing the pressure against the edge and fixing an elongated impression in the material by applying pressure against the undulated surface thereof and relatively moving the confining body and the material in a direction transverse of the edge of the material whereby to mold the edge of the material to the shape desired and render the material easily foldable at a predetermined distance from its molded edge.

13. The method of shaping margins of material to be folded which comprises placing the material adjacent an edge confining body, steaming the material to render it plastic, externally engaging the material and pressing plastic edge portions thereof against the said edge confining body and thereafter simultaneously applying increased pressure between the edge and its confining body and depressing an elongated portion of a surface of the material in predetermined po sition relative to the edge confining body by applying pressure against a surface thereof and relatively moving the confining body and the material in a direction transverse of the edge of the material whereby to mold the edge of the material to the shape desired and render the material easily foldable at said depressed portion.

14. The method of shaping the lapel portions of a garment which comprises steaming the material to render it plastic, engaging the tip of the lapel adjacent the extremity thereof and drawing it firmly into an edge molding recess whereby to compress the edge of the lapel tip to substantially the lateral shape desired, fastening the lapel tip in its laterally compressed position and subsequently producing pressure between the edge of the lapel tip and its molding recess by applying pressure to the surface of the material whereby to press the surface of the lapel tip and mold the edge thereof to the shape desired.

15. The method of shaping the lapel portions of a garment which comprises steaming the material to render it plastic, manipulating the tip of the lapel to press plastic edge portions thereof against an edge molding wall, manipulating edge portions of the collar and edge portions of the lapel remote from the tip to distribute and press the same against an edge molding wall and simultaneously delineating the shape of the notch separating the lapel and collar and subsequently producing pressure between the edge of the material and its molding wall and moving the edge confining body and the material relatively in a direction transverse of the edge of the material to mold the edge of the material to the shape desired.

16. The method of shaping the lapel portions of a garment which comprises steaming the material to render it plastic, manipulating the tip of the lapel to press plastic edge portions thereof against an edge molding wall, man pulating edge portions of the collar and edge portions of the lapel remote from the tip to distribute and press the same against an edge molding wall and simultaneously delineating the shape of the notch separating the lapel and collar and subsequently producing pressure between the edge of the material and its molding wall to mold the edge of the material to the shape desired and forming an impression in the surface of the material in predetermined position relative to the shaped edge thereof to render the material easily foldable.

17. In a pressing machine adapted for use with a pressing mold comprising a cloth supporting member and an edge molding wall, the combination of a table adapted to support the cloth supporting member, means for removably securing the cloth supporting member on the table, means for yieldingly supporting the edge molding Wall to expose a molding surface of a height which exceeds the thickness of the material to be pressed and pressing means adapted to depress the molding wall and to press the material.

18. In a pressing machine adapted for use with a pressing mold comprising a cloth supporting member and an edge molding wall, the combination of a table adapted to support the cloth supporting member, means for removably positioning and securing the cloth supporting member on the table, said means including a ledge on the periphery of the table adapted to abut the said member, means for yieldingly supporting the edge molding wall with an exposed molding surface of a height to exceed the thickness of the material to be pressed and a presser member adapted to depress the molding wall so that its height does not exceed substantially the thickness of the material whereby to press the surface of the material and simultaneously to mold the edge thereof.

19. In a pressing machine adapted for use with a pressing mold comprising a cloth supporting member and an edge molding wall, the combination of a table adapted to support the cloth supporting member, means for removably positioning and securing the cloth supporting member on the table, said means including a ledge on the periphery of the table adapted to abut the said member and having an exposed surface forming a continuation of the supporting surface of said member, means for yieldingly supporting the edge molding wall with an exposed molding surface of a height to exceed the thickness of the material to be pressed and a presser member adapted to depress the molding wall so that its height does not exceed substantially the thickness of the material whereby to press the surface of the material and simultaneously to mold the edge thereof.

20. In a pressing machine adapted for use with a pressing mold comprising a cloth supporting member and an edge molding wall, the combination of a table adapted to support the cloth supporting member, means for removably positioning A and securing the cloth supporting member on the table, said means including a ledge on the periphery of the table adapted to abut the said member and having an exposed surface forming a continuation of the supporting surface of said member, a rib on the ledge adapted to impress the material with an elongated indentation whereby to initiate a fold in a predetermined portion of the material, means for yieldingly supporting the edge molding wall with an exposed molding surface of a height to exceed the thickness of the material to be pressed and a presser member adapted to depress the molding Wall so that its height does not exceed substantially the thickness of the material whereby simultaneously to press the surface of the material, mold the edge thereof and initiate the fold in a predetermined portion of the material relative to the molded edge.

21. In a pressing machine adapted for use with a pressing mold comprising a cloth supporting member and an edge molding wall, the combination of a table adapted to support the cloth supporting member, means for removably positioning and securing the cloth supporting member on the table including a ledge on the periphery of the table adapted to abut the said member and having an exposed surface forming a continuation of the supporting surface of said member, a rib on the ledge adapted to impress the material with an elongated indentation whereby to initiate a fold in a predetermined portion of the material, means for yieldingly supporting the edge molding wall With an exposed molding surface of a height to exceed the thickness of the material to be pressed, at presser member adapted to depress the molding Wall so that its height does not exceed substantially the thickness of the material whereby to press the surface of the material and simultaneously to mold the edge thereof, and a reeess in the surface of the presser member adapted to receive protruding portions of the material adjacent the rib.

22. In a pressing machine adapted for use with a pressing mold comprising acloth supporting member and an edge molding Wall, the combination of a table adapted to support the cloth supporting member, means for removably positioning and securing the cloth supporting member on the table including a ledge on the periphery of the table, adapted to abut the said member and having an exposed surface forming a continuation of the supporting surface of said member, a rib 011 the ledge adapted to impress the material with an elongated indentation whereby to initiate a fold in a predetermined portion of the material, means for yieldingly supporting the edge molding wall With an exposed molding surface of a height to exceed the thickness of the material to be pressed, 2, presser member adapted to depress the molding wall so that its height does not exceed substantially the thickness of the material Whereby to press the surface of the material and simultaneously to mold the edge thereof, and a recess in the surface of the presser member adapted to receive protruding portions of the material adjacent the rib, said recess being cloth padded internally to conform to varying thicknesses of material to be pressed.

FRANK PAPARELLA.

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