Connect public, paid and private patent data with Google Patents Public Datasets

Process for producing an item of jewellery

Download PDF

Info

Publication number
US20020108397A1
US20020108397A1 US10072976 US7297602A US20020108397A1 US 20020108397 A1 US20020108397 A1 US 20020108397A1 US 10072976 US10072976 US 10072976 US 7297602 A US7297602 A US 7297602A US 20020108397 A1 US20020108397 A1 US 20020108397A1
Authority
US
Grant status
Application
Patent type
Prior art keywords
metal
process
casting
setting
stones
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Abandoned
Application number
US10072976
Inventor
Klaus Muller
Michael Becker
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Swarovski KG
Muller Klaus
Original Assignee
Swarovski KG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date

Links

Images

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CJEWELLERY; BRACELETS; OTHER PERSONAL ADORNMENTS; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools

Abstract

A process for producing an item of jewellery, in which a set stone (1) is fitted into a previously produced recess (9) in a cast metal body (5), wherein a part of the setting (2) is deformed and the stress produced by deformation holds the setting (2) together with the stone (1) fast; the recess (9) of the metal body (5) acquires in the casting operation its shape which causes deformation of the setting (2).

Description

  • [0001]
    The invention relates to a process for producing an item of jewellery, in which a set stone is fitted into a previously produced recess in a cast metal body, wherein a part of the setting is deformed and the stress produced by deformation holds the setting together with the stone fast.
  • [0002]
    The aim of that so-called pre-setting process (see EP 0 346 698 B1) is to make the work of the manufacturer of items of jewellery as easy as possible. In actual fact to secure the stone he now only needs to press the set stone into a suitable recess and the item of jewellery is ready.
  • [0003]
    In spite of the apparent simplification in the conventional procedure there are complaint situations which can almost without exception be explained on the basis that the bore produced with a conventional boring tool by the jewellery manufacturer after the casting operation is not of the correct depth or the correct diameter.
  • [0004]
    Even if the jewellery manufacturer adequately monitors and controls the boring process, the procedure which is usual nowadays nonetheless presupposes that the cast metal body of the item of jewellery is clamped into a CNC-machine and the holes which serve to receive the stones have to be bored precisely at a right angle to the surface. As it is only possible to produce cylindrical recesses by boring, the manufacturer of pre-set stones is prevented from marketing stones with an oval or angular and in particular quadrangular setting.
  • [0005]
    As an alternative to the above-described pre-setting process, the wax melting-out process is known, in which the unset stone is fitted into the wax model and, upon casting of the metal body, is joined thereto (casting-in-place). It will be appreciated that it would also be able to fix a set stone in that way in order to avoid the difficulties involved in producing a bore, but that means that the purpose of marketing pre-set stones would be lost if at best the setting were still to enjoy the advantage that the projections thereof are held fast in positively locking relationship after the casting operation. In addition, use of the pre-setting process is not only intended to facilitate insertion of the stones. On the contrary, an essential advantage of the process is that the fact that the stones are subsequently fixed in frictionally locking engagement in the metal body when already cast makes it possible to avoid damage thereto in the casting operation. The high temperatures involved when fusing in gold (temperatures of between 600 and 1000°) result in physical changes such as for example discoloration effects in relation to many artificial stones and also precious stones. In addition high levels of stress occur due to heating and cooling, which causes some stones to fracture.
  • [0006]
    In a process of the kind set forth in the opening part of this specification, the invention avoids the specified problems in that the recess in the metal body receives in the casting operation its shape which causes deformation of the setting.
  • [0007]
    The known wax melting-out process can be used for producing the metal bodies, in which respect it is desirable that the insert which fills the recess in the metal body casting process is removed after the casting operation by acid treatment.
  • [0008]
    Such a process has certainly already been proposed for setting a precious stone (see U.S. Pat. No. 4,793,045 A). That situation however involved adapting the shape of the recess as far as possible to the shape of the inserted stone which is then held fast by flanging over the edge of the cast setting. In the case of the process according to the invention in contrast the shape of the recess in the metal body precisely does not correspond to that of the pre-produced setting as same is in fact to be deformed by the recess. In order to give the process practical significance it is therefore also appropriate if the manufacturer of pre-produced stones also supplies the associated inserts which in the casting procedure produce the recesses in the item of jewellery, in the correct form, in which case he can now also assume responsibility for success with the entire procedure.
  • [0009]
    Details of the process are described hereinafter with reference to the drawing in which:
  • [0010]
    [0010]FIG. 1 is a view in cross-section,
  • [0011]
    [0011]FIG. 2 is a side view of a pre-set stone,
  • [0012]
    [0012]FIG. 3 is a perspective view of a so-called wax tree,
  • [0013]
    [0013]FIG. 4 shows the associated view in cross-section after being fitted into the casting mould,
  • [0014]
    [0014]FIG. 5 shows a perspective view of the cast metal body with inserted pins,
  • [0015]
    [0015]FIG. 6 corresponds to FIG. 5 after removal of the pins, and
  • [0016]
    [0016]FIG. 7 corresponds to FIG. 5 after insertion of set stones.
  • [0017]
    In order to make it easier for jewellery manufacturers to process stones 1 (precious stones or imitations), they are frequently already surrounded, by the manufacturer of the stones, with a metal setting 2 which holds the stone 1 fast for example by a flanging 4. When processing the stones it is only necessary to insert the set stone into a recess which compresses the resilient lugs 3 provided on the setting 2 and thus makes it practically impossible for the stone to be removed.
  • [0018]
    In order to produce the necessary recesses in the cast metal body which is to form the carrier for the stones, the invention provides that cores 6 are fitted into the wax model 5′ of the metal body.
  • [0019]
    When casting in a mould an article with difficult cavities, undercut configurations or internal contours it is known per se to use cores besides the actual mould. In that respect the core is of such dimensions that it describes the shape and dimensions of the later cavities in the casting. The material thereof is to be so selected that on the one hand in the casting operation it withstands the pressures and temperatures obtaining there without an adverse effect in respect of the shape, and is stable in respect of shape, while on the other hand after hardening it can be dissolved out of the casting quickly and without any problem by using liquids such as lyes, acids and salts. Details about the manufacture of cores of that kind are described for example in EP 0 590 186 B1.
  • [0020]
    For casting the metal bodies, a plurality of wax moulds 5′ with inserted cores in the form of the wax tree shown in FIG. 3 are used and surrounded in a chill mould 8 (see FIG. 4) with gypsum 7 or another material which after heating of the mould takes up the wax of the model 5′. The metal, in particular a precious metal, forming the carrier of the stones 1, is cast into the resulting cavity.
  • [0021]
    [0021]FIG. 5 shows the finished metal body 5 with the cores 6 still fitted therein. After removal thereof, as can be seen from FIG. 6, the metal body 5 has precise recesses 9 into which the set stones as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 can be pressed, thereby affording the situation shown in FIG. 7.

Claims (5)

1. A process for producing an item of jewellery, in which a set stone is fitted into a previously produced recess in a cast metal body, wherein a part of the setting is deformed and the stress produced by deformation holds the setting together with the stone fast, characterised in that the recess (9) of the metal body (5) acquires in the casting operation its shape which causes deformation of the setting (2).
2. A process according to claim 1 characterised in that the core (6) which fills the recess (9) in the casting operation for the metal body (5) is removed after the casting step by acid treatment.
3. A mould insert for the mould used for casting the metal body in the process according to claim 1 characterised in that its surface is identical to that of the inserted setting.
4. A mould insert according to claim 3 characterised by being in the configuration of a core (6) which is usual for the fine casting of carbon steels using the wax melting-out process and which comprises quartz with additions of zirconium and aluminium oxide.
5. An item of jewellery which is produced using the process according to claim 1 characterised in that the setting (2) of the stone (1) is non-round, in particular quadrangular.
US10072976 2001-02-15 2002-02-12 Process for producing an item of jewellery Abandoned US20020108397A1 (en)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ATGM118/2001 2001-02-15
AT11801 2001-02-15

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
US20020108397A1 true true US20020108397A1 (en) 2002-08-15

Family

ID=3481979

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
US10072976 Abandoned US20020108397A1 (en) 2001-02-15 2002-02-12 Process for producing an item of jewellery

Country Status (2)

Country Link
US (1) US20020108397A1 (en)
DE (1) DE10206322A1 (en)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1917877A1 (en) * 2006-11-03 2008-05-07 Altmann Casting AG Metal product
US20110302958A1 (en) * 2010-06-10 2011-12-15 Joseph Mardkha Ring with Markings for Setting Gemstones
US8677624B2 (en) 2011-12-07 2014-03-25 Joseph Mardkha Ring with outer markings/segments for setting gemstones

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2362875A (en) * 1943-06-03 1944-11-14 Austenal Lab Inc Casting procedure
US4972685A (en) * 1988-06-14 1990-11-27 D. Swarovski & Co. Mount for gems
US6123141A (en) * 1995-12-13 2000-09-26 Baum; Robert Method of forming a wax replica

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2362875A (en) * 1943-06-03 1944-11-14 Austenal Lab Inc Casting procedure
US4972685A (en) * 1988-06-14 1990-11-27 D. Swarovski & Co. Mount for gems
US6123141A (en) * 1995-12-13 2000-09-26 Baum; Robert Method of forming a wax replica

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1917877A1 (en) * 2006-11-03 2008-05-07 Altmann Casting AG Metal product
WO2008052375A1 (en) * 2006-11-03 2008-05-08 Altmann Casting Ag Metal product
US20110302958A1 (en) * 2010-06-10 2011-12-15 Joseph Mardkha Ring with Markings for Setting Gemstones
US8567065B2 (en) * 2010-06-10 2013-10-29 Joseph Mardkha Method of augmenting a ring
US8677624B2 (en) 2011-12-07 2014-03-25 Joseph Mardkha Ring with outer markings/segments for setting gemstones
US9386828B2 (en) 2011-12-07 2016-07-12 Joseph Mardkha Ring with outer markings/segments for setting gemstones

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date Type
DE10206322A1 (en) 2002-12-19 application

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
US3601178A (en) Method of making a wax model of a ring with hollow crown
US6547210B1 (en) Sacrificial insert for injection molding
US3838728A (en) Method for molding finger rings
US4836518A (en) Fixture for workpieces
US4068702A (en) Method for positioning a strongback
US6058803A (en) Hollow bicycle crank and method for manufacturing same
US6497272B1 (en) Single crystal casting mold
US5782289A (en) Investment casting
US5232365A (en) Process for producing dental working cast
US3344842A (en) Apparatus for forming an interproximal interlock
US4741378A (en) Sprue pin for producing castings
US4993472A (en) Method of making fingerprint jewelry
US7270166B2 (en) Fugitive pattern assembly and method
US3511466A (en) Mold for wax patterns for casting finger rings
GB2072567A (en) Forms for investment casting and products produced therefrom
US7144240B2 (en) Methodology and apparatus for manufacturing dental appliances
US4558841A (en) Spruing assembly
US20050188722A1 (en) Jewelry apparatus and method of making same
US5569033A (en) Pinned dental models and their preparation and use
US5843326A (en) Process and device for producing at least a portion of a tire mold comprising at least one element molding a non-removable motif
CN1792498A (en) Methd for preparing core of hollow ceramic
US4630346A (en) Article forming method
US5655592A (en) Method and device for eliminating compression and distortion of wax patterns in lost-wax casting
US3561521A (en) Method for changing the size of wax ring patterns
US2039105A (en) Method of making reference apparatus for sheet metal parts

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
AS Assignment

Owner name: D. SWAROVSKI & CO., AUSTRIA

Free format text: ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST;ASSIGNORS:MULLER, KLAUS;BECKER, MICHAEL;REEL/FRAME:012711/0624

Effective date: 20020214