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US1997500A - Method of manufacturing new articles of jewelry and ornaments - Google Patents

Method of manufacturing new articles of jewelry and ornaments Download PDF

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Publication number
US1997500A
US1997500A US60363932A US1997500A US 1997500 A US1997500 A US 1997500A US 60363932 A US60363932 A US 60363932A US 1997500 A US1997500 A US 1997500A
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Prior art keywords
stones
fig
mould
portion
part
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Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Swarovski Daniel
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Swarovski Daniel
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CJEWELLERY; BRACELETS; OTHER PERSONAL ADORNMENTS; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10STECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10S264/00Plastic and nonmetallic article shaping or treating: processes
    • Y10S264/55Processes for making jewelry
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10STECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10S264/00Plastic and nonmetallic article shaping or treating: processes
    • Y10S264/78Processes of molding using vacuum
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00Metal working
    • Y10T29/23Gem and jewel setting
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00Metal working
    • Y10T29/49Method of mechanical manufacture
    • Y10T29/49588Jewelry or locket making
    • Y10T29/49597Ornamental stock making

Description

. Aprll 9,1935. D. SWARQVSKI METHOD OF MANUFACTURING NEW ARTICLES OF JEWELRY AND 0 Filed April 6, 1952 Fig?! I RNAMENTS 2 Shets-Sheet 1 April 9, 1935. D. swARovsm 1997500 NG NEW ARTICLES OF JEWELRY AND ORNAMENITS Filed April 6, 1932 v 2 Sheets-Shet 2 METHOD OF MANUFACTURI Patented Apr. 9, 1935 UNITED STATES METHOD or ones or .mwnmr This invention relates to a new and improved method of manufacturing new articles of jewelry and ornaments consisting essentially of stones or paste embedded in a foundation made of plastic substances.

It has been the practice in the manufacturing of such articles of jewelry and ornaments i'rom imitation diamonds or paste either to fasten these stones in shells of metal or glass, or to mount the same in settings by the rolling of the edges of the latter or by the bending over of projections provided for the purpose, or. to stick or cement these stones in depressions. With the first mentioned method of mounting, the stones are apt to become damaged, while the sticking or cementing of the stones in depressions has the disadvantage that the stones are held in place merely by the adhesive power of the sticking substance or cement used and can therefore easily break loose. Common to all these methods is the further disadvantage of comparatively high cost of production, since several consecutive time-consuming operations or processes are necessary.

p In accordance with the present invention the above-mentioned drawbacks are obviated by ar-; ranging that simultaneously with the shaping of the ornament by the pouring or pressing of the foundation substance intoa suitable mould the stones themselves are mounted or fixed iii position and, if desired, the clasp or other means of attachment is also secured in position on the ornament.

The carrying outof the invention and some of the new articles are illustrated with the aid of a number of examples in the accompanying drawings, in which:--

Figs. 1 and 2'show the parts of the pressing or casting mould, in two different variations, in

section.

Figs. 3 and 4 show a stone with its setting taken from each of the ornaments made in the moulds shown in Figs. 1 and 2 respectively.

Fig. 5 shows a type of mould used in manufacturing buttons in accordance with the present invention.

Fig. 6 shows a finished button, in a modified form. I

Fig, 7 shows a type of mould for the manufacturing of an ornament consisting of stones held together by a network.

Figs. 8 and 9 show the finished product-obtained with the use of the mould shown in Fig. "I, in side elevation and plan, respectively.

1,991,560 MANUFACTURING NEW ann- Daniel Swarovakl. Wattcns, Tyrol, Ami-1a Application April 8, 1932, Serial No. 603,639 In Austria June 9, 1931 50mm. (or. 18-59) in the hot state.

of the ornament, the mounting of the stones,

of the lower portion H lowed upper portion PATENT orFicE AND ORNAMENTS Fig. 10 shows a modified form of the last-shown type of mould.

Fig. 11 is a view in elevation of-a row of stones mounted in this type of mould.

Fig. 12 illustrates, with the aid of a sectional view of a mould, a modification in the carryin out of the method according to the invention.

Referring to Fig. 1, there are provided in the lower portion I of the matrix, which corresponds to the desired shape of the finished ornament, according to the intended arrangement of the stones, depressions each of which is adapted to receive a stone. The stones 2 are placed with their outer faces downwards in these depressions, and these depressions and the stones are so dimensioned that the edge 3 at which the stone is largest in diameter assumes a position above the edge 4 of the depressions in the mould. In the upper part 5 of the matrix the clasp or fastening set 6 is soinserted that the portions thereof to bev embedded in the plastic foundation material project into the hollow space within the mould. The plastic substance used, such as, for example, celluloid .or the like, rubber, synthetic resin, or artificial horn, is then pressed or poured into the closed mould in the cold or In this manner the shaping and the fixing in position of the fastening set are all effected simultaneously in a single working process. The plastic substance I adapts itself uniformly to the shape of the surface of the stones (see Fig. 3) and overlapstheir edge 3, without in any way damaging the stones orv shifting the same from their respective.positions. The pressed or cast articles are removed from the mould after hardening, and are then completely finished, except for any slight ,touching up which may possibly be necessary.

The form shown in Fig. 2 is modified to the extent that the lower portions 8 of the matrix is provided with prominences 9 which enclose hol-' lows which are coaxial with the stones, and which are filled out by the plastic material when the mould is closed. The setting of the stones then appears inrelief on the surface of the foundation material (see Fig. 4). The edge 3 of the stones is in this case enclosed in an annular bead III of the foundation material.

. For the maufacturing of abutton a mould of the type shown in; Fig. 5is employed. The shape of the matrix H is similar to that of the corresponding lower portion of the matrix. 8 in Fig. 2. In the bell-shaped hol- II there is inserted the fas- REiSS been kept in place by suction, into tener for the button. This fastener consists of an eye I! and of a curved member ll which lies close against the arched inner surface of the upper part of the mould, the ends of this member being bent inwards to form hooks which become anchored in the foundation substance.

The button shown in Fig. 6 is manufactured in a very similar manner. With a view to being sewn on to fabrics this button is provided with two holes l which are formed by means of die slidably arranged in the upper portion of the matrix, these die being inserted into the hollow of the mould before casting and subsequently withdrawn therefrom. These die thus constitute the negative of the fastener for the button.

For the manufacturing of groups and sets of stones in rows held together by a. network of threads or fine wires the mould shown in Fig. 7 .is employed. The lower portion l6 of the matrix accommodates the stones in a manner similar to that shown in Fig. 2 and is provided with prominences I l the shape of which in plan corresponds to the intermediate spaces l1 between the individual stone settings (see Fig. 9). Between these 'prominences there are left grooves in which the threads l8,

been filled out with the plastic foundation material the fiat pressing die 5, which is shown in the drawing in the lifted-off position, is pressed upon the mould, thus forming a meshed strip of stones in settings held together by threads (see 'Fig. 8.). The threads or wires are deeply embedded in the foundation substance 1, with the result that the finished strip acquires a certain 'degree of stiffness or rigidity which renders the same particularly suitable for attachment to plane surfaces.

Yielding or supple strips of this type, such as are. required more particularly for sewing on to fabrics, are manufactured by means of the mould shown in Fig. 10. This mould is distinguished from the previously described mould by the fact that the lower portion IQ of the matrix is made "very shallow, while the upper portion 20 is provided with arched hollows or recesses 2| for the reception of the plastic foundation material which, during the casting process, surrounds threads I8, I 8" laid cross wise over the stones in shallow grooves (see Fig. ll).

Under certain circumstances it can be advisable to arrange the stones in the upper portion of the matrix. In this case there are provided in the upper portion 23 of the mould channels 22 which issue in the cavities provided for the reception of the stones, and which are connected to any desired suction pipe line which is not shown in the drawing (Fig. 12). In the lower portion of the mould there is placed the reinforcement which, in the present instance consists of wires 24. After the filling of the lower portion 25 with the plastic foundation material the upper portion is placed in position, thus pressing the stones, which have the plastic material to a, depth to cover their largest diameter.

The decorative effect of articles of ornamentation and jewelry thus manufactured can be increased by the employed of tinted foundation materials, or by subsequently colouringor metallically coating the surface of the foundation. It will also be clear that the various modifications of the method described can be combined, so that, for example, articles made by the method illusl8' are placed. After the mould has.

trated in Fig. 12- are with naming means of the type shown in Fig. '6, and so forth.

I claim: 1. The method of forming ornamental articles which consists in providlng a stone with a crown portion and a belt at the constituting that portion maximum cross section, supporting said stone in a mold part with the crown vertically embedded in said mold part and the belt spaced from the surface of said mold part, and forcing plastic material around the exposed part of the stone to engage over the belt an against the exposed part of the crown. V

-2. The method of forming ornamental articles which consists in providing a series of stones each with a crown portion and a belt at the major base of the crown constituting that portion of the stone having the maximum cross section, supporting said stones in spaced relation in a mold part with the crown of each partially embedded in said mold part and the belt of each spaced from the surface of said mold part, forcing a continuous mass of plastic material around all the exposed portions of said stones to engage over their belts and against the exposed portions of their crowns, and simultaneously weakening the plastic material between adjacent stones.

3. The method of forming ornamental articles which consists in providing a series of stones each with a crown portion and a belt at the major base of the crown constituting that portion of the major base of the crown of the stone having thestone having the maximum cross section, supporting said stones in spaced relation in a mold part with the crown of each partially embedded in said mold part and the belt of each spaced from the surface of said'mold part, arranging flexible strands across said stones in spaced relation to the surface of said mold part, forcing a continuous mass of plastic material around said strands and all the exposed portions of said stones to engage over their belts and against the exposed portions of the crowns, and simultaneously weakening the plastic material between adjacent stones.

4. The method of forming ornamental articles which consists in providing a jewel stone with a crown portion and a belt at the major base of the crown constituting that portion of the stone having the maximum cross section, supporting said stone in a mold part with the crown vertically embeddedin said mold part and the belt spaced from the surface ofsaid mold part, and forcing celluloid-like plastic material around the exposed part of the stone to engage over the belt and against the exposed part of the crown.

5. The method of forming ornamental articles which consists in providing a series of jewel stones each with a crown portion and. a belt at the major base of the crown constituting that portion of the stone having the maximum cross section, supporting said stones in spaced relation in a mold part with the crownof each partially embedded in said mold part and the belt of each spaced from the surface of said mold pa'rt, forcing ,a continuous mass of celluloid-like plastic ma-

US1997500A 1931-06-09 1932-04-06 Method of manufacturing new articles of jewelry and ornaments Expired - Lifetime US1997500A (en)

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Cited By (18)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2556148A (en) * 1945-10-05 1951-06-05 Arthur E Petzon Method of casting die sets
US2568126A (en) * 1945-08-10 1951-09-18 Prismo Products Inc Method of making reflecting signs by laminating
US2652651A (en) * 1949-12-09 1953-09-22 Barbera Mannie La Display sign construction
US2774102A (en) * 1946-04-15 1956-12-18 Gen Electric Bead setting method and apparatus
US3065920A (en) * 1959-01-22 1962-11-27 Bolton John W & Sons Inc Working surfaces for refining engines
US3174893A (en) * 1961-01-17 1965-03-23 Idella R Church Simulated ceramic tile-like mosaic construction
US3454692A (en) * 1965-03-11 1969-07-08 Donnelly Mirrors Inc Method of forming vehicular rearview mirrors
US4154282A (en) * 1976-05-24 1979-05-15 J. E. Hammer & Sohne Method of casting metal around a gem to form articles of jewelry
US4392289A (en) * 1981-06-01 1983-07-12 Charles Hoffert Of America, Inc. Manufacture of jewelry by casting with preset gems
US5494615A (en) * 1994-09-28 1996-02-27 Wang Lee; Min-Young Method and apparatus for manufacturing eyeglasses by forming integrally a frame unit on a lens unit
US6299818B1 (en) * 1998-12-16 2001-10-09 T. R. Hawkinson Ltd. Process and apparatus for molding jewelry
US20030173025A1 (en) * 2002-03-14 2003-09-18 Kathrine Baumann Method for decorative crystals
US20080250695A1 (en) * 2007-04-11 2008-10-16 Brasseur Bernard P Stackable casting sinker
US20100017944A1 (en) * 2008-07-23 2010-01-28 Hirschmann Martin Process for the production of a gemstone arrangement
US20110109210A1 (en) * 2008-07-18 2011-05-12 Dingwen Mao Method of inserting brittle material in plastic shell and electronic device having the plastic shell
US20130236679A1 (en) * 2012-03-06 2013-09-12 Giovanni BIZZOTTO Manufactured article and a method of obtaining thereof
EP2896312A1 (en) * 2014-01-17 2015-07-22 Cartier Création Studio S.A. Piece of jewellery with articulated links, in particular a watch strap, and method for manufacturing same
USD769739S1 (en) * 2014-07-08 2016-10-25 Richemont International Sa Watch

Cited By (20)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2568126A (en) * 1945-08-10 1951-09-18 Prismo Products Inc Method of making reflecting signs by laminating
US2556148A (en) * 1945-10-05 1951-06-05 Arthur E Petzon Method of casting die sets
US2774102A (en) * 1946-04-15 1956-12-18 Gen Electric Bead setting method and apparatus
US2652651A (en) * 1949-12-09 1953-09-22 Barbera Mannie La Display sign construction
US3065920A (en) * 1959-01-22 1962-11-27 Bolton John W & Sons Inc Working surfaces for refining engines
US3174893A (en) * 1961-01-17 1965-03-23 Idella R Church Simulated ceramic tile-like mosaic construction
US3454692A (en) * 1965-03-11 1969-07-08 Donnelly Mirrors Inc Method of forming vehicular rearview mirrors
US4154282A (en) * 1976-05-24 1979-05-15 J. E. Hammer & Sohne Method of casting metal around a gem to form articles of jewelry
US4392289A (en) * 1981-06-01 1983-07-12 Charles Hoffert Of America, Inc. Manufacture of jewelry by casting with preset gems
US5494615A (en) * 1994-09-28 1996-02-27 Wang Lee; Min-Young Method and apparatus for manufacturing eyeglasses by forming integrally a frame unit on a lens unit
US6299818B1 (en) * 1998-12-16 2001-10-09 T. R. Hawkinson Ltd. Process and apparatus for molding jewelry
US20030173025A1 (en) * 2002-03-14 2003-09-18 Kathrine Baumann Method for decorative crystals
US20080250695A1 (en) * 2007-04-11 2008-10-16 Brasseur Bernard P Stackable casting sinker
US7621072B2 (en) * 2007-04-11 2009-11-24 Brasseur Bernard P Stackable casting sinker
US20110109210A1 (en) * 2008-07-18 2011-05-12 Dingwen Mao Method of inserting brittle material in plastic shell and electronic device having the plastic shell
US20100017944A1 (en) * 2008-07-23 2010-01-28 Hirschmann Martin Process for the production of a gemstone arrangement
US20130236679A1 (en) * 2012-03-06 2013-09-12 Giovanni BIZZOTTO Manufactured article and a method of obtaining thereof
US8857059B2 (en) * 2012-03-06 2014-10-14 Dibi S.P.A. Manufactured article and a method of obtaining thereof
EP2896312A1 (en) * 2014-01-17 2015-07-22 Cartier Création Studio S.A. Piece of jewellery with articulated links, in particular a watch strap, and method for manufacturing same
USD769739S1 (en) * 2014-07-08 2016-10-25 Richemont International Sa Watch

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