US1993680A - Apparatus for and method of waving hair - Google Patents

Apparatus for and method of waving hair Download PDF

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US1993680A
US1993680A US656321A US65632133A US1993680A US 1993680 A US1993680 A US 1993680A US 656321 A US656321 A US 656321A US 65632133 A US65632133 A US 65632133A US 1993680 A US1993680 A US 1993680A
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hair
strand
waving
rod
rods
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Neyman Louis
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D2/00Hair-curling or hair-waving appliances ; Appliances for hair dressing treatment not otherwise provided for
    • A45D2/12Hair winders or hair curlers for use parallel to the scalp, i.e. flat-curlers
    • A45D2/24Hair winders or hair curlers for use parallel to the scalp, i.e. flat-curlers of multi-part type, e.g. with sliding parts other than for fastening
    • A45D2/34Hair winders or hair curlers for use parallel to the scalp, i.e. flat-curlers of multi-part type, e.g. with sliding parts other than for fastening with base clamp

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  • An object is to provide apparatus and a method which will produce a wave in the hair closer to the scalp than has heretofore been possible, and which will form and set this wave in a manner to insure a more intense or stronger wave at the head.
  • Another object is to provide apparatus and method in which the hair is wrapped in fiat strands or hands and is so shaped that when completed and the hair is combed the portion near the scalp will fall into place to give a natural flat horseshoe curve so much desired in permanent waves.
  • Yet another object is to so construct the apparatus and carry out the method that the wave in the individualfilaments will be subjected to more intense waving influence immediately adjacent to the .scalp to thus give a strongerand more intense wave, while yet avoiding any possi- I bility of kinking, to hold the hair in waves at that position without widening due to the fact that the weight of the waved hair is. entirely supported from this point, and without fading out perceptibly with successive shampooing or other treatments.
  • Still another object is toprovide means for regulating the size, and consequently the depth
  • Another object is to provide an apparatus with which the band or strand of hair, and the individual filaments, are automatically held and maintained under tension during the steaming or heating treatment.
  • a further object resides in providing an apparatus and a method which will cut down the length of the steaming or heat treating process, due to the proper stretching or tensioning' bf the hair and the distribution of the strand over multiple forms, to thus save time for the operator and the recipient of the wave, and at the same time materialiy'decrease the possibility of injury to the filaments of the hairthrough oversteaming and heating.
  • Figure 1 is a view in perspective showing one form of apparatus constructed in accordance with this invention and adapted for carrying, out
  • Fig. 2 is a top plan view.
  • Fig. 3 is a top plan view with the forms removed.
  • Fig. 4- is 'a transverse sectional view through the structure substantially on line 4-4' of Fig. 2, illustrating the manner of winding the hair'and showing a heat applying means in place.
  • Fig. 5 is a diagrammatic view to better show the manner in which the strand of hair is laid and wound.
  • Fig. 6 is a perspective view showing a modified construction of clamp and waving rod assembly.
  • Fig. '7 is a sectional view transversely through Fig. 6 with the rods and the hair in place.
  • Fig. 8 is a sectional view similar to Fig. 7 showing another modified construction.
  • Figs. 9 and 10 are fragmentary perspective views illustrating modified forms-of waving rods and holding clips therefor.
  • the principal methods of permanently waving hair .have been the spindle and the croquignole.
  • the apparatus and the manner 'of winding, in the spindle method does not secure uniform heat application. to the individual strands, and due to the mannerof winding this method results in uneven waving of individual strands and in a curl or kinking forma- 36 tion in the wave.
  • Another purpose is to provide an apparatus and method which can be employed without any particular instruction or special skill, and with which the laying in or forming of the strands can be accomplished with the same facility and speed as with other methods, and the release of one part causes all parts of the wave to be quickly removed from the apparatus.
  • the clamp structure by which the hair is held adjacent to the scalp and is maintained in the form of a flat strand or band can be of any desired form and construction, of which several are now being manufactured, and in the present instance I have illustrated only one adaptation.
  • the clamp as here shown has the two portions 1 and 2 hingedly connected together at one end, as at 3, the clamp members 1 and 2'being thus connected together to be opened for the reception of the strand or band of hair, as shown in Fig. 3.
  • a latch or lock 4 preferably including cam or other clamping means, is provided at the loose ends of the clamp members 1 and 2 to hold the clamp together.
  • facings 6 thereon of rubber or other suitable cushion and moisture resisting material to prevent injury to the individual filaments of hair and to guard against steam passing between the clamping members to flow back along the hair to burn or injure the scalp, when heat is applied.
  • pads on the'inner sides of the clamp bars but, as above set forth, this part of the apparatus is of substantially standard and usual construction and may be of any desired and suitable form.
  • This curling or winding rod 8 will be used in the ordinary manner by first applying the end of the strand of hair tothe middle portion of the rod and then winding up the hair from the end, each successive layer of hair toward the head being wound directly upon the underneath or preceding layer.
  • Standards 11 and 12 are provided on the clamp 'structure to revolubly receive and hold this curling or winding rod. 8 and a ratchet pawl 13 is provided to engage with a toothed ratchet wheel portion 14 at one end of the rod 8 to thus permit tightening of this winding rod to draw the strand of hair under tension and to hold this tension.
  • clamp portion 1 I Upon the clamp portion 1 I provide spring clips 15 andlfi which are preferably resilientand are spaced to be at points adjacent to the ends of the clamp member, similar clip portions 17 and 18 being providedon the clamp member 2.
  • These clip members are adapted to-receive, support and hold waving rods 19 and 20, whichwaving rods are thus disposed in close proximity to thesides of the winding rod 8 to lie substantially parallel to the axis mem r. v as best. shown in Fig. 4, the
  • waving rods 19 and 20 are positioned to fit substantially between the clamp members 1- and 2 and the winding rod 8, and it is preferable that these rods 19 and 20 be brought in as close as possible to the winding rod "8 to thus allow close winding of the hair, and to permit accommodation of the apparatus in a'heater 21 of substantially usual construction.
  • the hair is divided into strands or hands, following linessubstantially parallel with a line taken from front to back along the top of the head, or along a natural or desired line of parting.
  • Each strand or flat band of hair is treated individually by being first clamped within the clamping structure, the strand 'being thus held in the flat band form and being conveniently presented for manipulation.
  • This fiat band is now folded or laid over to one side, substantially as diagrammaticallyillustrated in Fig. 5, and waving rod 19 is then laid on the upper side of the flat band.
  • the band is then laid or folded across to the other side and waving rod 20 is laid in place, after which the band or strand of hair is swung upwardly and is returned back to overlie the first folded portion.
  • the remaining portion of the strand or band of hair is'then wound on winding rod 8, beginning at the end of the strand and winding toward the parts folded in substantially s-shaped form over the wavingrods 19 and 20.
  • the hair can be properly tensioned the portion wound upon the rod 8, and after this rod is in place and the winding is continued the portion of the hair nearest to the head, which is laid in substantially S-shaped form over the waving rods 19 and 20 will be drawn .over these rods and properly tensioned.
  • beaded roll portions 22 and 23 bear against the flat laid portions of the strand on its under sides and the winding rod 8 and the hair thereon bears on the upper side of the crossed portion, substantially as shown in Fig. 4, so that the portion laid in S-shaped form has no straight run or pull at any part throughout its length.
  • the strandof hair will be moistened with alkaline waving solution, or other treating fluid, and a felt or fabric covering 24 is'placed over the strand as thus laid, wound and assembled upon the apparatus.
  • the heater 21 has side plates 25 and 26 thereon provided with inwardly extending and oppositely disposed flanges, and through manipulation of handles 27 and 28 these side plates 25 and 26, normally spring held in substantially the position shown in Fig. .4, are swung to withdraw the flange portions of the plates outwardly so that the heater can be fitted down over the strand of hair as assembled upon the apparatusand enclosed within thefelt or tabric 24.
  • the handles 27 and 28 are then released and the flange portions of the side plates 25 and 26 press inwardly to hold the felt or fabric tucked in between the hair as laid around the waving rods 19 and 20 and the clamp members 1 and 2.
  • the heater members or portions 21 can be heated by the use of electric current, or any other suitable manner, and as heat is applied the waving solution is vaporized to steam the hair, and at the same time heat is transmitted to the rolled bead portions 22 and 23, the waving rods 19 and 20, and the winding rod 8.
  • these various portions be made of aluminum, or of some-other metal or material that will readily transmit heat, as heat is' thus conveniently and directly applied to the individual filaments of the flat strand of hair as laid over and wound upon the several portions, in the manner hereinbefore set forth.
  • the hair is carried in a single layer or fold overthe waving rods 19 and 20, and as a considerable length of the hair adjacent to the scalp is accommodated over these rods, the amount of hair to be wound upon the rod 8 is materially decreased, thus decreasing the number of turns and consequently the thickening of the hair as wound upon the rod 8.
  • the heat is applied more uniformly to all portions of the hair which is more uniformly stretched, but is perhaps intensified upon the portions of the strand nearest to the scalp.
  • the relative size of the winding rod 8 and the waving rods 19 and 20 can be varied to thus increase or decrease the shortness of'the waves and the size of the curl or turn in at the end of the hair, and thus each individual head of hair can be waved and treated in a manner best suited to conform to the head, or to the length of the hair, or to other conditions. Further, if desired, only the waving rod 20 need be used, and then a single wave will be formed close to the scalp by this individual rod, the balance of the length of the hair strand being wound upon the rod 8.
  • rods 8 and 19 and ,ture are substantially the same as 20 as being preferably of heat absorbing and radiating material, it is possible that these rods might be of any suitable non-conducting material, should occasion require.
  • the spring clips 15, 16, 17 and 18 exert resilient pressure upon the waving rods 19 and 20 to take up, and maintain the tension on the hair during the steaming period.
  • - l9 and 20 can be made of tubular form so the heat will be applied from the inside.
  • FIG. 7 the clamp structure, the winding rod, and the mounting strucherein set forth above.
  • the use of this modified construction is illustrated in Fig. 7, and as here shown, the hair is given a single wave or turn over a waving rod, adjacent to the scalp, and the remainder of the strand is then wound upon the winding rod, from the end inward.
  • the plate or bracket portion 25 be made resilient so that the rod 26 can move to conform and lie closely adjacent to the hair as wound in the flat layers upon the winding rod, and this same spring force will hold the hair under tension as it is drawn over the rod 26.
  • the bracket portion 27 extends from the opposite clamping member, and the waving rod 28 is permanently or removably carried by this resilient bracket or supporting structure. Clips 29 are provided and a second waving rod 30 is held by these clips.
  • the manner of winding is substantially the same as set forth in connection with the first illustrated embodiment, and the resilient support or bracket 2'1 serves to resiliently and at all times maintain tension upon that portion of the hair strand adjacent to the scalp which is laid over the rods 28 and 30 in the substantially S-shaped form.
  • the waving rod 31 has the end 32 thereof squared or made 'of other polygonal form, and the rod supporting clip 33 has a socket opening correspondingly formed to receive and hold this shaped end 32.
  • the rod 34 might be made to be substantially of quarter rod shape, with the edges at the rounded corners smoothed over to prevent cutting of or injury to the ills.- ments of the hair, and the supporting clip 35 will be provided with a socket correspondingly shaped to receive and hold the end of the waving rod.
  • This particular form of waving rod may be found advantageous for use where it is desired to make short turns and wide loops in the substantially S-shaped laying of the hair adjacent to the scalp, and where large curved surfaces are desired on the waving rods and yet the parts must beheld down in their assembled size to fit within the prescribed sizes and limits of a heating element or structure.
  • waving rods as illustrated are to be understood as only certain possible forms, and in use the size, shape, and material of these rods can be varied to suit each individual operator or operation.
  • the size of the waving rods, the number of waving rods used, and the relative disposition and spacing of these waving rods with respect to each other and to the winding rod can be varied almost without limit to suit different requirements of use, as for instance in waving short and long hair upon the same head, and to meet substantially any and all other conditions.
  • An apparatus for waving hair comprising,” a supporting structure, a winding rod carried bythe supporting structure, and a bodily removable and replaceable waving rod carried by the supporting structure over which the hair is laid in fiat substantially S-shaped form and is held tensioned.
  • a hair waving apparatus comprising, a supporting structure, a bodily removable and replaceable waving rod over which a strand of hair is laid as a fiat ribbon, a second bodily rethe strand of hair being carried by the supporting structure in such disposition that the fiat ribbon form of strand of hair is maintained and preserved at all times.
  • a hair waving apparatus comprising, a clamp structure to receive and hold a strand of hair as a fiat band, a bodily removable and replaceable waving rod carried by said clamp structure over which the strand of hair is laid in flat form, and a winding rod carried by the clamp structure disposed laterally with respect to said winding rod on to which the hair is wound from the end to thus tension the hair on the winding rod and around said waving rod.
  • An apparatus for waving hair comprising, a clamp to receive and hold a strand of hair in the form of a flat band, a bodily removable and replaceable waving rod carried by said member disposed laterally from and extending substantially parallel to the clamping edge andover which the strand of hair is laid as a fiat band,
  • a winding rod onto which the flat strand of hair is wound from its end and means on the clamp structure to support said winding rod laterally and substantially parallel with respect to the waving rod.
  • An apparatus for waving hair comprising, a supporting structure, a winding rod carried by the supporting structure onto which a fiat strand of hair is wound from its end, a laterally disposed and substantially parallel extending bodily removable and replaceable waving rod carried by the supporting structure over which the portion of the strand of hair is laid in flat form adjacent to the scalp, and means to hold the strand of hair under tension over the waving rod.
  • An apparatus for waving hair comprising,
  • a clamp to be fitted upon a strand of hair adjacent to the scalp to hold said strand in fiat bandlike form with the major portion of the strand extending beyond the clamp, a pair of waving rods, means to bodily removably mount said waving rods upon the clamp structure on opposite sides of the strand of hair as received therethrough so that said strand can be laid and folded substantially fiat over one rod and then the other rod to assume a substantially S-shaped form, and a winding rod carried by said clamp structure upon which the strand of hair is wound in flat form from its end toward the waving rods.
  • An apparatus for waving hair comprising, a clamp to be fitted upon a strand of hair adjacent to the scalp to hold said strand in flat band-like form with the major portion of the strand extending beyond the clamp, a pair of waving rods entirely free from and unconnected with the other parts to thus be freely manually manipulated for placement and removal, means to removably mount said waving rods upon the clamp structure on opposite sides of the strand of hair as received therethrough so that said strand can be laid and folded substantially flat over one rod and then the other rod to assume a substantially s-shaped form, a winding rod .carried by said clamp structure upon which the strand of hair is wound in fiat form from its end toward the waving rods, and means to hold the hair under tension over said waving rods.
  • An apparatus for Waving hair comprising, a clamp to be fitted upon a strand of hair adjacent to the scalp -to hold said strand in flat bandlike form with the major portion of the strand extending beyond the clamp, a pair of waving rods entirely free from and unconnected with the other parts to thus be freely manually manipulated for placement and removal, means to removably mount said waving rods upon the clamp structure on opposite sides of the strand of hair as received therethrough so that said strand can be laid and folded substantially flat over one rod and then the other rod to assume a substantially S-shaped form, a winding rod carried by said clamp structure upon which the strand of hair is wound in flat form from its end toward the waving rods, and means to receive said clamp structure to enclose the rods havingthe hair assembled thereon and apply heat to said hair.
  • An apparatus for waving hair comprising, a clamp to be fitted upon a strand of hair adjacent to the scalp to hold said strand in fiat bandlike form with the major portion of the strand extending beyond the clamp, a pair of waving rods, spring clips to removably mount said waving rods upon the clamp structure on opposite sides of the strand of hair as received therethrough so that said strand can be laid and folded substantially fiat over one rod and then the other rod toassume a substantially S-shaped form, a winding rod carried by said clamp structure upon which the strand of hair is wound in flat form from its ends toward the waving rods, and means to receive said clamp structure to enclose the rods having the hair assembled thereon and apply heat to said hair.
  • An apparatus for waving hair comprising, a clamp structure to grip a strand of hair adjacent to the scalp and hold said strand as a flat band, with the main portion extending through the jaws of the clamp, supporting clips carried by said clamp structure on opposite sides of the clamp jaw thereof, waving rods held by said supporting clips to be spaced laterally on opposite sides of the jaw and extend substantially parallel therewith and to have the flat strand of hair laid thereover to assume a substantially s-shaped form, a winding rod on which said strand is wound from its end, and supporting standards carried by said clamp structure intermediate the waving rods-to receive and hold said winding rods.
  • An apparatus for waving hair comprising, a clamp structure having jaws adapted to grip a strand of hair adjacent to the scalp and hold said strand in the form of a flat band with the main. portion of the strand extending through said clamp structure, supporting clips carried by the clamp structure on opposite sides of the clamping jaws, a waving rod removably carried by the supporting clips on one side to be mounted laterally from and extending substantially parallel with the clamping jaws so that the strand of hair can be laid under and folded over said "rod as a flat band, a second winding rod laid upon the upper side of the flat strand of hair and removably held in the second set of clips so that the strand of hair can be folded back over said waving rod to assume a substantially S-shaped form, a winding rod onto which the flat strand is wound from its end, supporting standards carried by said clamp structure intermediate the supporting clips to receive and hold the winding rod with the hair wound thereon so that the strand of hair can be tightened around the waving rods, and means to maintain the
  • the method of waving hair upon the human head which comprises, dividing the hair into flat strands, surrounding one strand adjacent to the scalp with a clamp to hold the strand flat, placing a waving rod across the strand and folding back the flat strand over the waving rod to lie flat thereagainst around one side of said rod and folding the flat strand back, winding said strand from its end upon a second rod to tension the hair around said first and second rods, treating the hair with a solution and enclosing the hair as wound, and subjecting the hair to heat.
  • the method of waving hair upon the human head by the use of a treating solution and the application of heat comprising, selecting a fiat ribbon-like strand of hair, holding the strand flat adjacent to the scalp, laying a waving ro transversely across the strandof hair and folding back the flat strand to fold over one side of the waving rod, winding the strand in flat form upon a second rod to hold the folded portion under tension over the first mentioned rod, treating the hair with solution at the appropriate time, enclosing the hair as thus folded and wound, and applying heat.
  • the method of waving hair upon the human head by the use of a solution and heat comprising, separating out a flat strand of hair, holding the strand fiat adjacent to the scalp, folding the strand laterally adjacent to the holding means, placing a waving rod transversely across the hair and folding the strand over the waving rod to lie fiat thereon and return laterally, folding the strand overa second waving rod to draw flat therearound, winding said strand from its end flat upon a winding rod, treating the hair with solution at the proper interval, and applying heat to the flat strand as thus assembled and treated.
  • the method of waving hair upon the human head by the use of solutions and heat comprising, holding a flat strand of hair adjacent to the scalp to be outstanding and held in substantially flat ribbon-like form, folding the portion of the flat strand adjacent to the scalp laterally, placing a waving rod transversely across the hair and folding the strand back over the laterally disposed waving rod, laying the hair flat under a second waving rod and folding the same to return in a substantially s-shaped wave, winding the remainder of the strand still in flat form from its end and tightening the wound portion to hold the portion of the strand adjacent the head as laid over the waving rods under tension, treating the strand with a solution at the appropriate time and applying heat to the treated strand as thus held upon the waving rods and wound.
  • the method of waving hair by treating with a solution and applying heat comprising, dividing the hair into fiat strands, surrounding one strand adjacent the scalp with a clamp, holding the strand in fiat ribbon-like form, folding the strand laterally over the clamp, placing laterally a removable waving rod upon the upper side of the strand of hair and folding the strand back to lie substantially fiat, placing laterally a removable second waving rod upon the strand of hair to be spaced laterally from the first wavstrand of hair is laid as a flat band, means to tension the hair over said rods, and spring clips carried by the supporting structure and by which the rods are bodily removably held acting upon said rods to hold the tension.
  • An apparatus for wa'ving hair comprising, a clampirg structure to engage and hold a fiat strand of hair, detachable waving rods to be removably placed upon the strand of hair and to have the flat strand folded thereover, clips carried by the supporting structure by which said waving rods are removably held in place, and a winding rod to wind the end of the strand of hair.
  • An apparatus for waving hair comprising,
  • a supporting clamp structure to engage and hold a strand of hair as a fiat band
  • a waving rod carried by one part of the supporting clamp structure to fold the fiat band over the clamp structure as the same is closed
  • said waving rod prea supporting clamp structure to engage a strand of hair and hold the same in fiat band form
  • clips carried by the supporting clamp structure to be on opposite sides of the band of hair as thus clamped
  • waving rods removably fitted within said clips over the band of hair and over which the hair is folded to maintain its fiat band form
  • a winding rod removably held by the supporting structure to lie substantially interme-'- diate the waving rods and uponwhich the end of the strand of hair can be wound flat to preserve and maintain the fiat band form.
  • the method of waving hair upon the human head which comprises, dividing the hair into strands, confining the hair adjacent to the scalp to hold the strand flat, placing a waving rod across the strand and folding back the fiat strand over the waving rod to lie fiat thereagainst and around one side of said rod, winding said fiat strand from its end upon a second rod to tension the hair around said first and second rods,

Description

March 5, 1935. NEYMAN APPARATUS FOR AND METHOD OF WAVING HAIR Filed Feb. 11, 1933 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 March 5, 1935. L. NEYMAN 1,993,630
APPARATUS FOR AND METHOD OF WAVING HAIR 7 Filed Feb. 11, 1953 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Louis @man,
Patented Mar. 5, 1935 UNITED STATES PATENT- OFFICE APPARATUS FOR AND METHOD OF 23 Claims.
' mercial establishments.
An object is to provide apparatus and a method which will produce a wave in the hair closer to the scalp than has heretofore been possible, and which will form and set this wave in a manner to insure a more intense or stronger wave at the head.
Another object is to provide apparatus and method in which the hair is wrapped in fiat strands or hands and is so shaped that when completed and the hair is combed the portion near the scalp will fall into place to give a natural flat horseshoe curve so much desired in permanent waves.
Yet another object is to so construct the apparatus and carry out the method that the wave in the individualfilaments will be subjected to more intense waving influence immediately adjacent to the .scalp to thus give a strongerand more intense wave, while yet avoiding any possi- I bility of kinking, to hold the hair in waves at that position without widening due to the fact that the weight of the waved hair is. entirely supported from this point, and without fading out perceptibly with successive shampooing or other treatments.
- Still another object is toprovide means for regulating the size, and consequently the depth,
of the waves adjacent to the scalp without sacri-.-
.ficing the strength of the waves in this portion of the hair.
Another object is to provide an apparatus with which the band or strand of hair, and the individual filaments, are automatically held and maintained under tension during the steaming or heating treatment. a
A further object resides in providing an apparatus and a method which will cut down the length of the steaming or heat treating process, due to the proper stretching or tensioning' bf the hair and the distribution of the strand over multiple forms, to thus save time for the operator and the recipient of the wave, and at the same time materialiy'decrease the possibility of injury to the filaments of the hairthrough oversteaming and heating.
With the above'andother objects in view,
of the method, which will be hereinafter set forth in connection with the drawings, and then pointed out in the claims.
In the drawings:
Figure 1 is a view in perspective showing one form of apparatus constructed in accordance with this invention and adapted for carrying, out
the process.
Fig. 2 is a top plan view.
Fig. 3 is a top plan view with the forms removed.
Fig. 4- is 'a transverse sectional view through the structure substantially on line 4-4' of Fig. 2, illustrating the manner of winding the hair'and showing a heat applying means in place.
Fig. 5 is a diagrammatic view to better show the manner in which the strand of hair is laid and wound.
Fig. 6 is a perspective view showing a modified construction of clamp and waving rod assembly.
Fig. '7 is a sectional view transversely through Fig. 6 with the rods and the hair in place.
Fig. 8 is a sectional view similar to Fig. 7 showing another modified construction.
Figs. 9 and 10 are fragmentary perspective views illustrating modified forms-of waving rods and holding clips therefor.
Heretofore, the principal methods of permanently waving hair .have been the spindle and the croquignole. The apparatus and the manner 'of winding, in the spindle method, does not secure uniform heat application. to the individual strands, and due to the mannerof winding this method results in uneven waving of individual strands and in a curl or kinking forma- 36 tion in the wave. While the employment of the croq'uignole method results in a fiat and more pleasing wave, with apparatus heretofore used, a strand of hair is wound spirally upon a rod, beginning at the outer end, andas the portion of- 40 each hair-strand near the scalp is further from; the rod and'is formed on a larger curve those portions toward the end, which are wound upon or closely adjacent to the rod, the wave toward the scalp. is of wide form as the hair toward 4 the scalp is wound upon the hair already on the rod which serves as a cushion making it impo's-. sible to secure su'flicient tension, thus the wave at. this point weaker than the wave toward the ends. Endeavoringrto overcome this some operators have oversteamed or heated the hair, thinking thus to increase the strength of the wave toward the scalp; but, this has only resulted in injury to the hair filaments without properly aiding theiwave intensity or durability. Q
It is the purpose of my invention to provide an apparatus and method which will result in a wave having greatest intensity immediately adjacent to the scalp, and which can be so manipulated and worked'that the intensity and size of the wave of the strands adjacent to the scalp can be matched up to thus give a natural appearance when the waving of the entire head has been completed. Another purpose is to provide an apparatus and method which can be employed without any particular instruction or special skill, and with which the laying in or forming of the strands can be accomplished with the same facility and speed as with other methods, and the release of one part causes all parts of the wave to be quickly removed from the apparatus.
The clamp structure by which the hair is held adjacent to the scalp and is maintained in the form of a flat strand or band, can be of any desired form and construction, of which several are now being manufactured, and in the present instance I have illustrated only one adaptation. The clamp as here shown has the two portions 1 and 2 hingedly connected together at one end, as at 3, the clamp members 1 and 2'being thus connected together to be opened for the reception of the strand or band of hair, as shown in Fig. 3. A latch or lock 4, preferably including cam or other clamping means, is provided at the loose ends of the clamp members 1 and 2 to hold the clamp together. Backings 5, preferably of moisture and heat resisting materials, are provided on the clamping bars 1 and 2, and the clamping edges have facings 6 thereon of rubber or other suitable cushion and moisture resisting material to prevent injury to the individual filaments of hair and to guard against steam passing between the clamping members to flow back along the hair to burn or injure the scalp, when heat is applied. To further insulate and prevent the possibility of burning or injury to the scalp, it may be found necessary to provide pads on the'inner sides of the clamp bars; but, as above set forth, this part of the apparatus is of substantially standard and usual construction and may be of any desired and suitable form.
or ordinary construction, has a bearing pin 9 at one end and a winding key or head 10 at the other. This curling or winding rod 8 will be used in the ordinary manner by first applying the end of the strand of hair tothe middle portion of the rod and then winding up the hair from the end, each successive layer of hair toward the head being wound directly upon the underneath or preceding layer. Standards 11 and 12 are provided on the clamp 'structure to revolubly receive and hold this curling or winding rod. 8, and a ratchet pawl 13 is provided to engage with a toothed ratchet wheel portion 14 at one end of the rod 8 to thus permit tightening of this winding rod to draw the strand of hair under tension and to hold this tension.
Upon the clamp portion 1 I provide spring clips 15 andlfi which are preferably resilientand are spaced to be at points adjacent to the ends of the clamp member, similar clip portions 17 and 18 being providedon the clamp member 2. I These clip members are adapted to-receive, support and hold waving rods 19 and 20, whichwaving rods are thus disposed in close proximity to thesides of the winding rod 8 to lie substantially parallel to the axis mem r. v as best. shown in Fig. 4, the
waving rods 19 and 20 are positioned to fit substantially between the clamp members 1- and 2 and the winding rod 8, and it is preferable that these rods 19 and 20 be brought in as close as possible to the winding rod "8 to thus allow close winding of the hair, and to permit accommodation of the apparatus in a'heater 21 of substantially usual construction.
In laying the hair in place upon the apparatus the strand will be carried back andforth across the upper sides ofthe clamp members 1 and 2, and it is perhaps preferablethat rolled beads 22 and 23 be provided on one or both of these clamp members adjacent to the inner clamping edge thereof. v I
In using this apparatus, and in carrying-out my method, the hair is divided into strands or hands, following linessubstantially parallel with a line taken from front to back along the top of the head, or along a natural or desired line of parting. Each strand or flat band of hair is treated individually by being first clamped within the clamping structure, the strand 'being thus held in the flat band form and being conveniently presented for manipulation. This fiat band is now folded or laid over to one side, substantially as diagrammaticallyillustrated in Fig. 5, and waving rod 19 is then laid on the upper side of the flat band. The band is then laid or folded across to the other side and waving rod 20 is laid in place, after which the band or strand of hair is swung upwardly and is returned back to overlie the first folded portion. The remaining portion of the strand or band of hair is'then wound on winding rod 8, beginning at the end of the strand and winding toward the parts folded in substantially s-shaped form over the wavingrods 19 and 20. As the winding rod 8 is fitted in place within the standards 11 and 12 and is wound and caught by the ratchet 13, the hair can be properly tensioned the portion wound upon the rod 8, and after this rod is in place and the winding is continued the portion of the hair nearest to the head, which is laid in substantially S-shaped form over the waving rods 19 and 20 will be drawn .over these rods and properly tensioned. The
beaded roll portions 22 and 23 bear against the flat laid portions of the strand on its under sides and the winding rod 8 and the hair thereon bears on the upper side of the crossed portion, substantially as shown in Fig. 4, so that the portion laid in S-shaped form has no straight run or pull at any part throughout its length.
The strandof hair will be moistened with alkaline waving solution, or other treating fluid, and a felt or fabric covering 24 is'placed over the strand as thus laid, wound and assembled upon the apparatus. The heater 21 has side plates 25 and 26 thereon provided with inwardly extending and oppositely disposed flanges, and through manipulation of handles 27 and 28 these side plates 25 and 26, normally spring held in substantially the position shown in Fig. .4, are swung to withdraw the flange portions of the plates outwardly so that the heater can be fitted down over the strand of hair as assembled upon the apparatusand enclosed within thefelt or tabric 24. The handles 27 and 28 are then released and the flange portions of the side plates 25 and 26 press inwardly to hold the felt or fabric tucked in between the hair as laid around the waving rods 19 and 20 and the clamp members 1 and 2. The heater members or portions 21 can be heated by the use of electric current, or any other suitable manner, and as heat is applied the waving solution is vaporized to steam the hair, and at the same time heat is transmitted to the rolled bead portions 22 and 23, the waving rods 19 and 20, and the winding rod 8. It is perhaps preferable that these various portions be made of aluminum, or of some-other metal or material that will readily transmit heat, as heat is' thus conveniently and directly applied to the individual filaments of the flat strand of hair as laid over and wound upon the several portions, in the manner hereinbefore set forth. The hair is carried in a single layer or fold overthe waving rods 19 and 20, and as a considerable length of the hair adjacent to the scalp is accommodated over these rods, the amount of hair to be wound upon the rod 8 is materially decreased, thus decreasing the number of turns and consequently the thickening of the hair as wound upon the rod 8. In consequence, the heat is applied more uniformly to all portions of the hair which is more uniformly stretched, but is perhaps intensified upon the portions of the strand nearest to the scalp.
By reason of the fact that more uniform treatment can be secured, the time of steaming or heat treating is very materially reduced], and as the heat or steaming is more directly applied to the inner portions of the strand as laid in substantially S-shap'ed form over the waving rods 19 and 20, the wave at these points will be more thoroughly steamed in and will be shorter,.firmer, and more intense than is possible at any other point throughout the length of the strand, except perhaps where the end of the strand is in contact with the winding rod 8.
When the steaming or heating treatment has been carried out for a sufiicient time, the heat applying portion of the apparatus is removed and the winding rod 8 is then readily released from the ratchet 13 and the end of the strand is readily taken from this rod. Release of the winding rod leaves the portions of the hair wound over waving rods 19 and 20 loose, in consequence of which these rods can be readily slipped from the clips and when the clamp is removed the entire strand of hair is released. Each individual strand, and in effect each filament of hair, is given a strong intensive wave of substantially S-shaped form adjacent to the scalp, and as the hair is combed down it will fall into place with a natural horseshoe curve adjacent to the scalp, and the remaining portion gracefully waved in the much desired marcel form. When the strand of hair is released the weight is of course supported from the scalp, and the natural tendency is to straighten out the waves formed over the rods 19 and 20, however this pull due to the weight is compensated for as the waves toward the head are stronger and more intense. Further, these strong intense waves toward the scalp will insure a better and more lasting wave and will guard against fading due to shampooing or other treatment:
The relative size of the winding rod 8 and the waving rods 19 and 20 can be varied to thus increase or decrease the shortness of'the waves and the size of the curl or turn in at the end of the hair, and thus each individual head of hair can be waved and treated in a manner best suited to conform to the head, or to the length of the hair, or to other conditions. Further, if desired, only the waving rod 20 need be used, and then a single wave will be formed close to the scalp by this individual rod, the balance of the length of the hair strand being wound upon the rod 8.
While I have described the rods 8 and 19 and ,ture, are substantially the same as 20 as being preferably of heat absorbing and radiating material, it is possible that these rods might be of any suitable non-conducting material, should occasion require.
The spring clips 15, 16, 17 and 18 exert resilient pressure upon the waving rods 19 and 20 to take up, and maintain the tension on the hair during the steaming period.
While the initialv tensioning of the hair is accomplished through winding on rod 8 and drawing the hair over rods 19 and 20, it may at times be found desirable to increase this tension during the steaming or heat treating operation, and this can be accomplished by making each of the rods, or one or'both of the rods 19 and 20 of thermally expansive material to thus increase in diameter and exert increased drawing tension, as heat is applied. Further, any one or all of the rods 8,
- l9 and 20 can be made of tubular form so the heat will be applied from the inside.
As illustrated in Figs..6 and '7, the clamp structure, the winding rod, and the mounting strucherein set forth above. A supporting plate or bracket 25, carried by one of the clamp members, extends over the clamping edge of the clamp member, to thus be disposed beneath the winding rod when in place, and this clip or bracket portion 25 carries permanently a waving rod 26. The use of this modified construction is illustrated in Fig. 7, and as here shown, the hair is given a single wave or turn over a waving rod, adjacent to the scalp, and the remainder of the strand is then wound upon the winding rod, from the end inward. The winding of the hair from the end upon the winding rod draws that portion toward the scalp in proper tension over the waving rod 26, and it is preferable that the plate or bracket portion 25 be made resilient so that the rod 26 can move to conform and lie closely adjacent to the hair as wound in the flat layers upon the winding rod, and this same spring force will hold the hair under tension as it is drawn over the rod 26.
As illustrated in Fig. 8, the bracket portion 27 extends from the opposite clamping member, and the waving rod 28 is permanently or removably carried by this resilient bracket or supporting structure. Clips 29 are provided and a second waving rod 30 is held by these clips. In this adaptation, the manner of winding is substantially the same as set forth in connection with the first illustrated embodiment, and the resilient support or bracket 2'1 serves to resiliently and at all times maintain tension upon that portion of the hair strand adjacent to the scalp which is laid over the rods 28 and 30 in the substantially S-shaped form. In the modified construction illustrated in Fig. 9, the waving rod 31 has the end 32 thereof squared or made 'of other polygonal form, and the rod supporting clip 33 has a socket opening correspondingly formed to receive and hold this shaped end 32.
Referring now to Fig. 10, the rod 34 might be made to be substantially of quarter rod shape, with the edges at the rounded corners smoothed over to prevent cutting of or injury to the ills.- ments of the hair, and the supporting clip 35 will be provided with a socket correspondingly shaped to receive and hold the end of the waving rod. This particular form of waving rod may be found advantageous for use where it is desired to make short turns and wide loops in the substantially S-shaped laying of the hair adjacent to the scalp, and where large curved surfaces are desired on the waving rods and yet the parts must beheld down in their assembled size to fit within the prescribed sizes and limits of a heating element or structure. g
The several forms of waving rods as illustrated are to be understood as only certain possible forms, and in use the size, shape, and material of these rods can be varied to suit each individual operator or operation. For instance, the size of the waving rods, the number of waving rods used, and the relative disposition and spacing of these waving rods with respect to each other and to the winding rod, can be varied almost without limit to suit different requirements of use, as for instance in waving short and long hair upon the same head, and to meet substantially any and all other conditions.
From the foregoing it will be seen that I have provided an apparatus and method which will give a closer and most lasting wave, as the strength, depth, and intensity of the wave adjacent to the scalp is governed and regulated by the operator, while these waves are assembled and are steamed in with the hair laid in natural wide waves that will fall into place as a pleasing Marcel wave when .the hair is combed. Not only is it possible to vary the apparatus and themethod to suit different requirements, but it is possible to secure and maintain tension during the steaming operation, and to assemble the hair in such manner that substantially all portions are subjected to treating and waving influences during the steaming operation, and that portion of the strand, and consequently the individual filaments, adjacent to the scalp, is given most intense treatment, thus making it possible to cut down the steaming or heat treating time to such an extent that injury to the hair is positively precluded. With the use of my improved apparatus and method the intense wave near the scalp not only serves efllciently to support the weight of the time than has heretofore been possible by the employment of other apparatus and methods. It has been found that a wave applied to the hair with ordinary apparatus and methods will ordinarily not last longer than six months .time, and as the subjecting of the hair to heat and other efiects in the waving is injurious by removing natural oils and the like and changing the texture in some degree, it is not desirable to subject a head of hair to the efiects of a permanent wave successively each six months. I have found that if a period of substantially nine months or more elapses, the hair will grow from the head to a suillcient length that a new length of hair is presented to be subjected to a subsequent permanent waving operation, and that in this way the hair is. not likely to be injured; and, by the use of my improved apparatus and method a wave is produced which will hold its effect and appearance for substantially nine months or more, under ordinary conditions.
While I have herein shown and described only certain specific embodiments of my invention, and have set forth only certain possible modifications, it will be appreciated that many changes in the form, construction, arrangement and assembly, of the various portions of the apparatus, andin the steps and procedure of the process or method, can be resorted to to meet particular and varying conditions, without departing from the spirit and scope of my invention.-
I claim:
1. An apparatus for waving hair comprising," a supporting structure, a winding rod carried bythe supporting structure, and a bodily removable and replaceable waving rod carried by the supporting structure over which the hair is laid in fiat substantially S-shaped form and is held tensioned.
2. A hair waving apparatus comprising, a supporting structure, a bodily removable and replaceable waving rod over which a strand of hair is laid as a fiat ribbon, a second bodily rethe strand of hair being carried by the supporting structure in such disposition that the fiat ribbon form of strand of hair is maintained and preserved at all times.
3. A hair waving apparatus comprising, a clamp structure to receive and hold a strand of hair as a fiat band, a bodily removable and replaceable waving rod carried by said clamp structure over which the strand of hair is laid in flat form, and a winding rod carried by the clamp structure disposed laterally with respect to said winding rod on to which the hair is wound from the end to thus tension the hair on the winding rod and around said waving rod.
4. An apparatus for waving hair comprising, a clamp to receive and hold a strand of hair in the form of a flat band, a bodily removable and replaceable waving rod carried by said member disposed laterally from and extending substantially parallel to the clamping edge andover which the strand of hair is laid as a fiat band,
a winding rod onto which the flat strand of hair is wound from its end, and means on the clamp structure to support said winding rod laterally and substantially parallel with respect to the waving rod.
5. An apparatus for waving hair comprising, a supporting structure, a winding rod carried by the supporting structure onto which a fiat strand of hair is wound from its end, a laterally disposed and substantially parallel extending bodily removable and replaceable waving rod carried by the supporting structure over which the portion of the strand of hair is laid in flat form adjacent to the scalp, and means to hold the strand of hair under tension over the waving rod.
6. An apparatus for waving hair comprising,
' a clamp to be fitted upon a strand of hair adjacent to the scalp to hold said strand in fiat bandlike form with the major portion of the strand extending beyond the clamp, a pair of waving rods, means to bodily removably mount said waving rods upon the clamp structure on opposite sides of the strand of hair as received therethrough so that said strand can be laid and folded substantially fiat over one rod and then the other rod to assume a substantially S-shaped form, and a winding rod carried by said clamp structure upon which the strand of hair is wound in flat form from its end toward the waving rods.
7. An apparatus for waving hair comprising, a clamp to be fitted upon a strand of hair adjacent to the scalp to hold said strand in flat band-like form with the major portion of the strand extending beyond the clamp, a pair of waving rods entirely free from and unconnected with the other parts to thus be freely manually manipulated for placement and removal, means to removably mount said waving rods upon the clamp structure on opposite sides of the strand of hair as received therethrough so that said strand can be laid and folded substantially flat over one rod and then the other rod to assume a substantially s-shaped form, a winding rod .carried by said clamp structure upon which the strand of hair is wound in fiat form from its end toward the waving rods, and means to hold the hair under tension over said waving rods.
8. An apparatus for Waving hair comprising, a clamp to be fitted upon a strand of hair adjacent to the scalp -to hold said strand in flat bandlike form with the major portion of the strand extending beyond the clamp, a pair of waving rods entirely free from and unconnected with the other parts to thus be freely manually manipulated for placement and removal, means to removably mount said waving rods upon the clamp structure on opposite sides of the strand of hair as received therethrough so that said strand can be laid and folded substantially flat over one rod and then the other rod to assume a substantially S-shaped form, a winding rod carried by said clamp structure upon which the strand of hair is wound in flat form from its end toward the waving rods, and means to receive said clamp structure to enclose the rods havingthe hair assembled thereon and apply heat to said hair.
9. An apparatus for waving hair comprising, a clamp to be fitted upon a strand of hair adjacent to the scalp to hold said strand in fiat bandlike form with the major portion of the strand extending beyond the clamp, a pair of waving rods, spring clips to removably mount said waving rods upon the clamp structure on opposite sides of the strand of hair as received therethrough so that said strand can be laid and folded substantially fiat over one rod and then the other rod toassume a substantially S-shaped form, a winding rod carried by said clamp structure upon which the strand of hair is wound in flat form from its ends toward the waving rods, and means to receive said clamp structure to enclose the rods having the hair assembled thereon and apply heat to said hair.
10. An apparatus for waving hair comprising, a clamp structure to grip a strand of hair adjacent to the scalp and hold said strand as a flat band, with the main portion extending through the jaws of the clamp, supporting clips carried by said clamp structure on opposite sides of the clamp jaw thereof, waving rods held by said supporting clips to be spaced laterally on opposite sides of the jaw and extend substantially parallel therewith and to have the flat strand of hair laid thereover to assume a substantially s-shaped form, a winding rod on which said strand is wound from its end, and supporting standards carried by said clamp structure intermediate the waving rods-to receive and hold said winding rods.
11. An apparatus for waving hair comprising, a clamp structure having jaws adapted to grip a strand of hair adjacent to the scalp and hold said strand in the form of a flat band with the main. portion of the strand extending through said clamp structure, supporting clips carried by the clamp structure on opposite sides of the clamping jaws, a waving rod removably carried by the supporting clips on one side to be mounted laterally from and extending substantially parallel with the clamping jaws so that the strand of hair can be laid under and folded over said "rod as a flat band, a second winding rod laid upon the upper side of the flat strand of hair and removably held in the second set of clips so that the strand of hair can be folded back over said waving rod to assume a substantially S-shaped form, a winding rod onto which the flat strand is wound from its end, supporting standards carried by said clamp structure intermediate the supporting clips to receive and hold the winding rod with the hair wound thereon so that the strand of hair can be tightened around the waving rods, and means to maintain the hair under tension.
12. The method of waving hair upon the human head which comprises, dividing the hair into flat strands, surrounding one strand adjacent to the scalp with a clamp to hold the strand flat, placing a waving rod across the strand and folding back the flat strand over the waving rod to lie flat thereagainst around one side of said rod and folding the flat strand back, winding said strand from its end upon a second rod to tension the hair around said first and second rods, treating the hair with a solution and enclosing the hair as wound, and subjecting the hair to heat.
13. The method of waving hair upon the human head by the use of a treating solution and the application of heat comprising, selecting a fiat ribbon-like strand of hair, holding the strand flat adjacent to the scalp, laying a waving ro transversely across the strandof hair and folding back the flat strand to fold over one side of the waving rod, winding the strand in flat form upon a second rod to hold the folded portion under tension over the first mentioned rod, treating the hair with solution at the appropriate time, enclosing the hair as thus folded and wound, and applying heat.
14. The method of waving hair upon the human head by the use of a solution and heat comprising, separating out a flat strand of hair, holding the strand fiat adjacent to the scalp, folding the strand laterally adjacent to the holding means, placing a waving rod transversely across the hair and folding the strand over the waving rod to lie fiat thereon and return laterally, folding the strand overa second waving rod to draw flat therearound, winding said strand from its end flat upon a winding rod, treating the hair with solution at the proper interval, and applying heat to the flat strand as thus assembled and treated.
15. The method of waving hair upon the human head by the use of solutions and heat comprising, holding a flat strand of hair adjacent to the scalp to be outstanding and held in substantially flat ribbon-like form, folding the portion of the flat strand adjacent to the scalp laterally, placing a waving rod transversely across the hair and folding the strand back over the laterally disposed waving rod, laying the hair flat under a second waving rod and folding the same to return in a substantially s-shaped wave, winding the remainder of the strand still in flat form from its end and tightening the wound portion to hold the portion of the strand adjacent the head as laid over the waving rods under tension, treating the strand with a solution at the appropriate time and applying heat to the treated strand as thus held upon the waving rods and wound.
16. The method of waving hair through the application of a treating solution and heat com-' prising, selecting a fiat strand of hair, placing removable waving rods transversely across the fiat strand of hair and laying the flat strand into a substantially S-shaped wave over the waving rods and without twisting the strand adjacent to the scalp, winding said strand from its end nearly to the wave portion as thus laid, holding the laid and wound portions undertension, applying treating solution at the proper interval, and applying heat to the strand of hair as,moistened with the solution and while held under tension as waved and wound.
17. The method of waving hair by treating with a solution and applying heat comprising, dividing the hair into fiat strands, surrounding one strand adjacent the scalp with a clamp, holding the strand in fiat ribbon-like form, folding the strand laterally over the clamp, placing laterally a removable waving rod upon the upper side of the strand of hair and folding the strand back to lie substantially fiat, placing laterally a removable second waving rod upon the strand of hair to be spaced laterally from the first wavstrand of hair is laid as a flat band, means to tension the hair over said rods, and spring clips carried by the supporting structure and by which the rods are bodily removably held acting upon said rods to hold the tension.
19. An apparatus for wa'ving hair comprising, a clampirg structure to engage and hold a fiat strand of hair, detachable waving rods to be removably placed upon the strand of hair and to have the flat strand folded thereover, clips carried by the supporting structure by which said waving rods are removably held in place, and a winding rod to wind the end of the strand of hair.
20. An apparatus for waving hair comprising,
a supporting clamp structure to engage and hold a strand of hair as a fiat band, a waving rod carried by one part of the supporting clamp structure to fold the fiat band over the clamp structure as the same is closed, said waving rod prea supporting clamp structure to engage a strand of hair and hold the same in fiat band form, clips carried by the supporting clamp structure to be on opposite sides of the band of hair as thus clamped, waving rods removably fitted within said clips over the band of hair and over which the hair is folded to maintain its fiat band form, and a winding rod removably held by the supporting structure to lie substantially interme-'- diate the waving rods and uponwhich the end of the strand of hair can be wound flat to preserve and maintain the fiat band form.
22. The method of waving hair upon the human head which comprises, dividing the hair into strands, confining the hair adjacent to the scalp to hold the strand flat, placing a waving rod across the strand and folding back the fiat strand over the waving rod to lie fiat thereagainst and around one side of said rod, winding said fiat strand from its end upon a second rod to tension the hair around said first and second rods,
and treating the hair thus held to set the form thereof.
23. The method of waving hair upon the human head which comprises, dividing the hair into,
strands, clamping adjacent to the head to hold the strand fiat, placing a winding rod across the strand and folding back the fiat strand over the waving rod, placing a second waving rod over the several rods, and treating the hair thus held to set the form thereof.
LOUIS NEYMAN.
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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2584434A (en) * 1950-01-04 1952-02-05 Bertha A Dodd Hair straightening machine

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2584434A (en) * 1950-01-04 1952-02-05 Bertha A Dodd Hair straightening machine

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