US1909468A - Double or multiple woven fabric for shirt collars and like purposes - Google Patents

Description

May 16, 1933. HOFERER 1,909,468

DOUBLE 0R MULTIPLE WOVEN FABRIC FOR SHIRT C OLLARS AND LIKE PURPOSES Filed May 17, 1930 I l l l T I I lug; mesooooc. g 32 6 38 Patented May 16, 1933 UNETEE ETATES PATENT OFFICE HEINRICH HOFERER, OF KULMBACI-I, GERMANY, ASSIGNOR T FIRM KULMBACI'IER SPINNEREI, KULMBACH, GERMANY DOUBLE OR MULTIPLE WOVEN FABRIC FOR SHIRT COLLARS AND LIKE PURPOSES Application filed May 17, 1930, Serial No. 453,296, and in Germany November 12, 1929.

In one method of producing multiple woven cloth for shirt collars and like pur poses the layers of fabric are united by means of specially introduced threads, and these are generally visible at the surface, so that though the cloth may be suitable for collars used in an unstarched state it is not suitable for starched collars, which must have a very smooth surface. In order that the uniting threads are not visible the weaving is in other cases so performed that these threads are covered by the warps in the top or face ply. The cloth produced is then suitable for starched collars, owing to the equalizing effect of the startch, but is not suitable for unstarched collars.

The object of this invention is to provide a method of weaving multiple cloth which is suitable both for starched and for unstarched collars and like wearing apparel.

According to the invention the face layer of fabric is not joined to the back layer or layers by specially introduced threads, but by the warps of the layers, and the wefts in the back layer or layers are spaced uniformly apart. WVith this method the points of connection of the layers are always invisible, whether the cloth is starched or unstarched, and collars may be made of the cloth, which have the appearance of starched collars, without being starched, particularly if fine yarn is used for the face ply. These collars are very easy to iron, both starched and unstarched, because relative displacement of the layers; is not liable to occur. If used with starch, less starch is required than usual, owing to the very intimate connection of the layers.

The preferred method, for collars, is to use a cloth consistingof three or more layers, with warps common to the top and bottom layers passing through the central layer or layers, the latter being formed of separate wefts and warps, or dead warps.

In the case of a double fabric, i. e. a; fabric consisting of two layers only, it is frequently observed that though the cloth may be pure white the surfaces have a grey appearance, this being due to shadows thrown by the minute ridges. This grey appearance is avoided if a central layer or a plurality of central layers is used, as this has an equalizing effect, rendering the surfaces aswhite, in appearance, as those of collars built up of separately woven layers of cloth.

Several methods of Weaving the improved multiple fabric are illustrated in the annexed drawing, in Figs. 1 to 8 respectively, the cloth being shown diagrammatically in section.

The fabric shown in Fig. 1 has a top or face layer consisting of warps 1 and wefts 2, and two back layers consisting of warps 3, wefts 4 and a dead warp 4. At regular intervals the warps 3 engage over the wefts 2 of the face layer, but are covered by the warps 1, so that the points of connection are not visible.

Fig. 2 shows a modification in which the warps 5 engage over the wefts 6 and 7 of a top layer. and a bottom layer, there being also an intermediate layer composed of warps 8 and wefts 9. One effect of having this intermediate layer is to prevent the fabric surfaces from appearing grey, as has already been mentioned.

Fig. 3 shows a modification in which warps 1O engage wefts 11 and 12 havingbetween them a dead warp 13, there being also warps which engage the wefts 12 and also engage a bottom layer of wefts 14. Bctween the wefts 12 and 14 there is a dead warp 15. It will be apparent that in this cloth the points of connection are wholly invisible. The fabric is very dense, and the surfaces are very smooth, so that they do not readily retain dirt. y

In the modification shown in Fig. 4 warps 16 engage wefts 17 and 18 arranged in two layers, the wefts 18 being also engaged by warps 19, and these engage a bottom layer of wefts 20. Between the wefts 18 and 20 there are dead warps 21.

Fig. 5 shows a modification in which warps 22 engage a top layer of wefts 23, and a bottom layer of wefts 24, the wefts 23 and 24 having .between them a layer of wefts 25. The fabric has several layers of dead warps 26. Theweaving of this cloth is very simple, and the surface is very layer which is outermost in the finished smooth.

Fig. 6 shows a modification in which warps 27 engage the wefts 28 of a bottom layer at some places, and in the intervening places engaging the wefts 29 of a top layer. There is an intermediate layer of wefts 30, and between this and the wefts 29 there are dead warps 31. This method of weaving leaves cavities 32, which are of advantage when the cloth is starched and is to be rendered particularly stiff by the starching, because they enable the cloth to take a large amount of starch. There are similar cavities in the fabric shown in Fig. 1.

Fig. 7 shows a modification in which warps 33 engage some of the wefts 34 of a top layer, and also engage some of the wefts 35 of an intermediate layer. The top layer comprises also warps 36, and the intermediate layer comprises warps 37. There is a bottom layer comprising warps 38 and 39, and wefts 40, the warps 39 engaging some of the wefts 35 of the intermediate layer.

Fig. 8 shows a modification in which warps 41 pass from the top layer through an intermediate layer to a bottom layer. The intermediate layer comprises warps 42 and wefts 43. The top layer has wefts 44, and the bottom layer has wefts 45. Ample cavities for the reception of starch are formed. In case such cavities should tend to become too large so that there would be risk of accidental folds being formed, the same may be reduced by introducing an additional connecting thread, which should be so laid that it does not interfere with the outer layer.

I claim 1. A multiple woven fabric for collars having two outer layers of weft threads and at least one intermediate layer of weft threads, the weft threads of said intermediate layer being in staggered relation with respect to the weft threads of the outer layer, warp threads each passing over spaced weft threads in the two outer layers alternately, and passing through said intermediate layer to form a plurality of oppositely facing loops extending between the outer layers, one loop lying between two weft threads in the intermediate layer and the succeeding loop including two weft threads in the intermediate layer, and dead warp threads between the weft threads of the intermediate layer and the weft threads of each of the two outer layers, whereby starch spaces are formed in the loops lying between adjacent weft threads of the intermediate layer.

2. A woven fabric for collars of the type described in claim 1 in which at least two dead warp threads are'provided on that side of the weft threads of the intermediate collar.

ture.

HEINRICH HOFERER.

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