US1909346A - Combined seaming and pinking machine - Google Patents

Description

'May 16, 1933. H. F. GRUMAN COMBINED SEAMING AND PINKING MACHINE 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed VMarch 13 1931 Ckttorneg Y EEE'.

May 16, 1933. H. F.-GRUMAN 1,909,345

COMBINED SEAMING AND PINKING MACHINE Filed March 15, 1931 5 Sheets-Sheet '2v Gttomeg May '16 F1933. H, F. GRUMA-N 41;99'?v46 fGOMBINED :SEAMIANG AND 'PI'NKING MACHINE I F'ledlMaro'h 13, 11931 5 r`Sheets-Sheet 3 iunwwmmljf EEE E IHF WM, I il May 16, 1933. H. F. GRUMAN 'l COMBINED SEAMING AND PINKING MACHINE Filed March 15, 1951 5 sheets-sheet 4 May 16, 1933. H. F. GRUMAN COMBINED SEAMING AND PINKNG MACHINE 1931 5 Sheets-Sheet ilecly March 13,

. Patented May- 16, 1933 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE HORACE F. .GRUMANZ OF ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI, ASSIGNOR TO LEWIS INVISIBLE STITCH MACHINE COMPANY, OF ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI, A. CORPORATION OF COMBINED SEAMING A:ND PINKING MACHINE Application led March 13, 1931. Serial No` 522,312.

I i This invention relates to new and useful` movable blade is supported by a lever which is positively actuated by a rotary cam whichis driven by a reducing speed `gear coupling from the main shaft whereby the movable blade will be given an ellective cutting stroke once only during several reciprocations of the needle; to provide means for quickly rendering the movable blade ineffective or effective and thereby render the machine useful, for seaming purposes either with or without the pinkingl mechanism; to provide means for yieldingly retaining the ledger blade 1 n cooperative cutting relation -with the vertlcallly reciprocable blade; to provide a vertically a justable cam finger on the blade-Carr mg lever for cooperation with the ledger bla e to insure the latter being properly positioned with respect to the ledger blade when the leveris returned from inefective to eective position, and to provide such a pinking mechanism which consists of but few parts which are adapted to be readily attached to a standard sewing machine.

With these and other objects in view which will more fullyappear, the nature of the invention will be more clearly understood by v following the description, the appended claims, and the several views illustrated in .the accompanying drawings.

-In the drawings Figure 1 is a front elevation of a sewing machine constructedin accordance with my invention, l v Figure 2 is a partial rear elevation thereof, Figure 3 is a top plan view of the overhanging arm,

Figure 4 is a partial longitudinal vertical sectional view through the overhanging arnr and associated parts,

Figure 5 is a horizontal sectional view taken on the line 5 5 of Figure 1,

Figure 6 is a vertical sectional view taken on the line 6 6 of Figure 1,

Figure 7 is a similar view but taken on the line 7 7 of Figure 1,

Figure 8 is awplan view of the throat plate, iced dog, needle opening, ledger blade, movable blade, and adjustable spring connected to the ledger blade,

Figure 9 is an enlarged diagrammatic view showing the normal relation between the walls of the movable blade and the cutting edges of the ledger blade, the movable blade being in its uppermost position.`

Figure 10 is a similar view but showing the relative'lpositions of the blades` when the movable blade'is in its lowermost position,

Figure 11 is a perspective view of the movable blade and the endv of the lever to which F it is connected,

Figure 12 is a view more or less diagrammatically showing the overlapping relation of the movable trimmer blade during the p inking operation,

Figurel is an enlarged vertical sectional View showing the normal cutting relation between the ledger blade and the movableblade, and i Figure 14 is a similar view but showing the relation of the parts when the. movable bladecarrying lever is in. its elevated or ineffective position.

Like reference numerals designate corresponding parts throughout the several figures of the drawings. Referring to the accompanying drawings. my invention has been applied to a. sewing machine of the fiat bed type vwhich includes a Work support 5, a standard 6, an overhanging arm 7, and a ncedlehead 8. Journaled in the overhanging arm is a rotary shaft 9 "which is operatively connected .b v any suitable mechanism to a needle A10 which is lnounted in the needle head 8 for vertical reciprocations. Mounted on the work snpport directly below theneedle 10 is a throat Vplate i1 having feed slots 12 and a needle opening 13 formed therein.. Also mounted on the needle head 8 is a presser foot 14 which is disposed directly above the feed slots 12 and the needle opening 13. Cooperating with the presser foot 14 below the throat plate 11 for feeding the Work rearwardly is a feed dog 15, and cooperating with the needle below the work plate is a rotary hook 16 or any other suitable complemental stitch forming mechanism.

Fixed to the rotary shaft 9 at a point intermediate the standard 6 and the needle head 8, is a driving gear 17 which is in constant mesh with a driven gear 18 fixed to a countershaft 19 journaled in a housing 2Q which is detachably connected to the overhanging arm 7 by screws 21, the housing together with the countcrshaft and driven gear 18 being thus suspended from the overhanging arm and being located intermediately the standard 6 and the needle head 8. The gear coupling 17, 18 has a 1to-3 ratio and consequently the countershaft 19 is rotated once for every three revolutions of the main shaft 9. Also fixed to the countershaft 19 and located within the housing 20 is a peripheral cam 22 having a concentric peripheral portion 23 which extends for approximately 270, and a single point cam -portion 24 which occupies approximately Disposed below the gear 18 and the cam 22 is a lever 25 which extends longitudinally of the overhanging arm 7 between the standard 6 and the needle head 8. The rear end of this lever is provided with a pair of forked arms 26, 26 which straddle the standard 6 and are pivoted thereto as at 27, 27. The lever directly under the cam 22 is rovided with a bearing 28 and with spaced) collars 29, 29 integral with the lever and located at opposite ends of the bearing. A 2-part sleeve 30 is journaled on the bearing 28 between the collars 29, 29, the parts of the sleeve being secured by clamping screws 31. Integral with one of the parts of the sleeve 30 is a pair of upstanding ears 32, 32 and journaled in said ears is a cam roller 33 which is yieldably retained in engagement with the periphery of the cam 22 by a coil spring 34 having one end connected to the housing 20 and the other end connected to the lever 25. Rigidly secured to one of the parts of the sleeve 30 is a handpiece 35 which together with the sleeve 30 and ears 32 form a bell crank lever which is rockable on the lever 25. Fixed to the handpiece 35 are laterally extending stops 36 which respectively project into the cutout portions 37 formed in the fixed collars 29 and forming resultant stop shoulders 38 and 39 respectively. When the pin 36 4is engaged with the stop shoulder 39 the cam roller 33 is in engagement with the periphery of the cam 22, but when the fin er lever 35 is moved upwardly so as to-posltion the stop pin 36 in engagement with the stop shoulder 38 the cam roller 33 will be disengaged from the cam 22 and moved to the dotted line position shown in Figure 7. When the cam roller 33 is thus disengaged from the cam 22, the lever 25 will be automatically swung upwardly by the spring 34 to the dotted line position shown in Figure 1, the upward movement of the lever being limited by an adjustable stop screw 40 projecting downwardly from the housing 20 for direct engagement by said lever. It is desirable to provide means for automatically retaining the lever 25 in either its operative or inoperative relation' with the cam 22 and for this purpose, a single wire spring 41 is provided. One end of this spring is secured by a screw 42 to one of the collars 29 and the free end of this spring projects into the cutout 37 and terminates in a substantially U-shaped end 43 forming`resultant stop portions 44, 45. In the normal or operating position of the lever 25, the stop portion 45 of said spring engages the adjacent stop pin 36 and retains the same against the stop .shoulder 39, and when the finger lever 35 has been moved upwardly to effect movement of the lever 25 to its ineffective or inoperative position, the stop portion 44 of said spring engages the stop pin 36 and re.- tains the same against the stop shoulder 38.

The free end of the lever 25 is provided with a downwardly extending projection 46 and detachably secured thereon by a clamping screw 47 is a movable cutting element 48.

This movable cutting element or trimmer blade 48 includes an attaching shank 49 and integral with the lower end of said shank are vertical' Walls 50, 50 which in horizontal cross section are substantially V-shaped, the walls merging at 011e end to form a toe portion 51 and resultant heel portions 52, 52 at the other end. Depending from the' heel portions 52 are guide extensions 53, 53 and the lower edges of the Walls 50, between the extensions 53 and the toe portion 51, are

inclined upwardly toward said toe portion as indicated at 54, 54, and are inwardly bevelled as at 55, 55 to form cutting edges. Mounted on the support 5 directly below the needle head 8l-is the throat plate 11 having.

feed slots`12, 12 and the needle opening 13 formed therein. Alto mounted on the needle head 8 is the presser foot 14 which isv dis posed above the feed slots 12 and the needle opening 13. Cooperating with the presser foot 14 below the throat plate 11 for intermittently feeding the work rearwardly is the 4motion feed dog 15.

- The throat plate 11 directly under the movable cutting blade 48 is provided with a rectangular recess 61 and slidably mounted on the throat plate above said recess is a ledger blade 62 formed with a triangular shaped opening 63 qf a size substantially-equal to the size in cross section of the movable trim- 63 of the ledger blade and normally bear against the. ends of the cutting edges 64, 64

at points remote from the a ex or toe por-4 tion 65 of the opening 63. T e ledger blade 62 issupported on the throat plate 11 for movements in a line extending in a plane at right 'angles to the line of feed through the medium of guide plates 66, 66 which are adjustably fixed to the throat plate llso as to permit the ledger blade. 62 to be adjusted with nicety relative to the movable cutting blade 48. A coil spring 67 has one end connected to a post 68 fixed to the ledger blade 62, the other end of said spring being connected to a plate 69 which is connected to the under side ofthe 'work support 5 through the medium of a clamping sc'rew 7 0- which passes througha slot 71 formed in said plate. Thus by means of the slot 71 the plate 69 may be adjusted toward and from the throat plate'll andA thereby vary the tension of the spring 67. This spring functions to' maintain the cutting edges 64, 64 of the ledger blade 62 in Contact with the walls 50, 50 and the cutting edges 54, 54 of the movable blade, thereby insuring a clean'shearing cutting action to v be'made.' Thus when the movable-blade 48 is moved downwardly the ledger blade 62, by reason of the'`diilerence in angular rela.- tionship af .the cutting walls'f50, l50 relative to the cutting edges 64, 64 will be moved toward the needle Aand against the tension of the spring 67, and when the movable blade 48.is elevated the spring 67 will return the ledger blade 62 to its normal position, the

return movement being limited by the guide extensions 53 engaging the cutting edges 64 of the I edgerbladel.D

45 The movable cutting blade 48 is located' on the right hand side of the presser foot' 14, and disposed in front of the cutting eleme'nt is an edge guide 72 for the fabrics to be trimmed or seamed, or both. This guide is adjustably mounted on an arm 73 which is fulcrumedto swin about a pivot screw 74 secured to the wor support 5. Thus by adjusting the guide 72 longitudinally of the arm 73, thedepth of the pinks may be adjusted, orif the cutting mechanism is thrown out of operation, the guide may be swung to an ineiiective edge-guiding position.

It will be observed that the ledger blade .62 is urged laterally by the spring 67 toward the pivots 27- of the lever 25, and therefore when the lever is swung upwardly to its in- 1 effective cutting position as shown by dotted lines in Figure 1, the movable blade 48 will be lifted clear of theledger blade andthe 65 opening in the latter will be out f registry tact wilthe movab with the movable blade as shown in Figure 14. Conse uentl Ihave providedmeans for returning t e le ger blade to its normal operating position simultaneously wlth the return movement of the blade-carrying lever.

To this end, I have provided thedownturned end portion 46 of the lever 25 with a vertical groove -75 and mounted in sa1d groove for vertical adjustments is the upper endof a cam finger 76, the upper end bein adjust-- ably attached to the downturned en portion 46 of the lever 25 by a slot and screw connection 77. A cam 78 which -is integral with the finger and extends laterally toward the guide extensions 53, is provided with a high point which is located i-n a horizontal plane containing the lower ends of the extensions 53, thelower en d of the cam cxtending downwardly below said horizontal plane. A stop 79 fixed to the work support 5, limits the lateral movement of the ledger .blade under the influence of the spring 67 lwhen the flever 25 is moved upwar ly to its ineffective cutting position. The right hand edge of the ledger blade is provided with a recess80 having a shoulder 81 at its inner en Assuming the movable blade 48 is elevated to its ineffective cutting position as shown in Figure 14, the cam finger 76 is correspondingly elevated so that both'the blade and vthe linger are-spaced above the ledger blade 62 which has been moved laterally by the spring 67 and bears against the stop 79.

When lit is desired to return the movable blade 48 to effective cutting position, the lever 25- is moved downwardly by the fingerV lever 35 and against the tension of the return spring 34. The lower edge of the cam 78l engages the shoulder 81 and moves the ledger blade 62 against thetension of the spring 67 until the opening in the, ledger blade registers with the movable blade 48, and immediately thereblade are lowered .into the opening of the ledger blade and the cam 78 is loweredbelow the ledger blade to the positions shown in full lines in Figure13. This action frees the ledger blade from the cam and permits the spring 67 to function and maintain the cutin said ligure. Thus the cam 78 reciprocates entirely below the ledger blade during cutting operatlons and the "cam therefore has no eiect on the blade during these cuttin operations.

In operation, two pieces of bric A. are arranged in superposed relation andy fed\past the stitch forming mechanism and the trimming mechanism by the feed dog 15. The

-after the extensionsl 53, 53 of the movable line of straightaway stitches S is thus formed and these stitches join the two pieces of fabric. By reason of the gear coupling 17, 18 being of a 1to3 ratio, the lever 25 is positively moved downwardly once during every three reciprocations of the needle, that is, the movable cutter 48 is moved downwardly simultaneously with the downward movementof the needle and elevated by the spring 34 during the upward stroke of said needle, the needle then making two additional reciprocations while the movable cutting element 48 is at rest. The length of the cutting edges 64, 64 is considerably greater than the length of the edges of a resultant pink and colisequently the movable trimmer blade 4S during its cutting operations necessarily overlaps the previously formed pinli w as shown in Figure 12, thereby insuring a clear .cut apex. From the foregoing, it will be readily understood that when it is desired to employ this machine for seaining operations only, the movable cutter element 48 may be swung upwardly and retained in its inoperative position.

It is of course to be understood that 'the details of structure and arrangements of pai-ts may be variously changed and modified without departing from the. spirit and scope of my invention.

I claim v 1. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination with a rotary shaft, of a stitch forming mechanism including a vertically reciprocablc needle operated by said shaft, and a trimmer mechanism including a ledger blade and avertically reciprocable blade cooperating therewith, a vertically movable pivotcd frame carrying the movable blade, driving connections includ ing a cam rotated bv the main shaft and having wiping contact with said frame intermediate the pivotal mounting of the frame andthe reciprocable blade for vertically moving the latter in one direction and enabling bodily removal of the frame without dismounting any of said driving connections, and a spring for maintaining the frame in operative engagement with said cam.

2. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination with a rotary shaft, of a stitch forming mechanism including a vertically reciprocable needle operated by said shaft, and a trimmer mechanism including a ledger blade and a vertically reciprocablepblade cooperating therewith, a vertically movable pivoted frame carrying the movable blade, driving connections including a cam rotated by the main shaft and having wiping contact with said frame intermediate the pivotal mounting of the frameand the reciprocable blade for positively moving the latter downwardly into effective cutting relation with the ledger blade and enabling bodily removal of the frame without dismounting any of said .driving connections, and a spring for maintaining the frame in operative engagement with said cam.

Y 3. In acombined seaming and trimming machine, the combination with a main frame including a work support, a standard on the work support, and an overhanging arm sup ported on the standard, of a stitch forming mechanism including a vertically reciprocable needle mounted on the overhanging arm, a rotary shaft journaled in the overhanging arm and having operative connections with said needle, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade mounted on the work support and-fa cooperating movable blade, a countershaft located between the work support and the rotary shaft and supported by the overhanging arm, a gear coupling between the rotary shaft and the countershaft, and a lever carrying the movable blade dis-v posed between the countersliaft and the work support and having one end thereof pivotally mounted to swing about a horizontal axis',`

and a cam fixed to the counter-shaft and operatively engaging said lever for positively lswinging the latter.

4. In a combined seaining and trimming machine, the combination with a main frame including a work support, a standard on the work support, and an overhanging arm supported on the standard,'of a stitch forming mechanism including a vertically reciprocable needle mounted on the overhanging arm, a rotary shaft journaled in the overhanging arm and having operative connections with said needle., and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade mounted on the work support and a cooperating movable blade, a countershaft located between the work support and the rotary shaft and supported by the overhanging arm, a gear coupling between the rotary shaft and the countershaft, and a lever carrying the movable blade disposed between the countershaft and the work slipport and having one end thereof pivotally mounted to swing about a horizontal airis.I a cam fixed to the countershaft and operatively engaging said lever for positively swinging the latter, and a spring for maintaining theflever in operative engagement with said cam.

5. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination with a rotary shaft, of a stitch forming mechanism including a vertically reociprocable needle operated by said shaft, and a trimmer mechanism includinga ledger bladeand a vertically reciprocable movable blade cooperating therewith, a cam rotated by the main shaft, a lever pivoted on a horizontal axis and carrying the mov-- able blade, and a hand lever fulcrumed on the blade-carrying lever and provided with a roller for engaging said cam, said'liand lever being rockable to-move the roller into and out of operative relation with the cam.

6, In a combined seaming and machine, the comblnation with a rotary`shaft, of a stitch forming mechanism includingy a Evertically reciprocable needle operated by said shaft, and a trimmer mechanism including a ledger blade and a vertically reciprocable movable blade cooperating therewith, a cam rotated by the main shaft, a lever pivoted on a horizontal axis and carrying the 1 movable blade, a hand lever fulcrumed on the means to limit the operative and inoperative rocking movements of said hand lever.

7. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination with a rotary shaft, of a stitch ferminghmechanism including a verticall reciprocable needle operated by said sha t, and a trimmer mechanism including a ledger blade and a vertically reciprocable movable blade cooperating therewith, a cam rotated bythe -main shaft, a lever pivoted on a horizontal axis and carrying the movable blade, a hand lever fulcrumed on,

the blade-carrying lever and provided with a roller for engaging said cam, said hand lever being rockable to movethe roller into and out of operative relationwith the cam, means to limit the operative and inoperative rocking movements of said hand lever, and a spring mounted on the blade-supporting lever and cooperating with the rollersupporting lever to retain thelatter in either f its operative or inoperative position.

8. In a combined seaming and pinking machine, the combination of a stitch forming ing mechanism including a vertically re-v mechanism including a vertically reciprocatory needle, and a trimming lmechanism including a'horizontally disposed ledger blade having an opening forming converging cutting edges; a vertically reciprocable movable blade having converging cuttingwalls normally cooperating with the cutting edges of the ledger blade; means for reciprocatmg the movable blade including a. support for the blade; means for elevatlng the sup ort to thereby render the mvable blade ine ective; meanslfor supporting the ledger'blade for lateral movements, a sprin connected `to the led er blade for maintainln the latter iel able engagement with Vt e movable ingthe ledger blade out of registry with the movable blade-when the latter is in its elev vated and ineffective position; .and means ont'rolled by the ymovable blade support urin normal position.

9. In a combined 1seaming and pinking machine, the combination of a stitch formciprocatory needle, and a trimming mechathe return movement thereof for auf tomatlcally returning the ledger blade to its reciprocatlng the movableblade including a sup'port for the blade; means for yelevating the support to thereby render the movable blade ineffective; means for supporting the ledger lblade for lateral movements; a sprint?l connected to the ledger blade for maintaim'" ing the latter in yieldable engagement with the movable blade during cutting operationsand for moving the ledger blade out ofreg istry with the movable blade when the latter is in its elevated and ineffective osition; and a cam finger fixed to the mova le blade support and cooperating with the ledger blade'to automatically return the latter to its normal position'during the return movement of said support. l

. 10. In vav combined seaming andv inking machine, the combination of a'stitc forming mechanism including a vertically reciprocatory needle, and a trimming mechanism including a horizontally disposed ledger blade having an opening forming conver ing cutting edges; avertically reciprocab e movable blade having'l converging cutting walls normally cooperating with the cuttin edges of the ledger blade; a lever -pivote on a horizontal axis and carrying the movable blade; means for moving said lever; means for swinging the lever u wardly to thereby render the movable blade melective;

means for supporting the ledger blade for movable blade when the latter is in its elevated and ineffective position; and a cam finger fixed to the lever and cooperating with the ledger blade to automatically return the latter to its normal position during the return movement of the lever.

11. In a lcombin seaming/ and -J A inking gmaehine, the combination of* a stitc forming vmechanism including a vertically recipf rocatory needle, and a trimming mechanism including a horizontally disposed ledger blade havingv an opening 'forming conve'r ving cutting edges; a vertically reciprocabe` 'movable blade Ehaving converging. cutting walls normally cooperating with the cutting edges of the ledger blade; means for reciprocating the movable lbladeincluding'a su port for the blade;- means for elevatin t e support to thereby render the movable lade. ineffective; means for supporting the ledger blade for lateral movements; a spring connected to the. ledger blade for maintaining the latter yieldableengagemnt with the movable blade during cutting operations and for moving the ledger blade lout of registry with the movable blade when thelatter is in its elevated and vineffective position; a stop to limit the lateral lnovement of the ledger blade under the influence of the spring when ysaid ledger blade is out of registry with the movableblade, and a cam finger fixed to the movable blade support and hav-l ing a cam located below the cutting edge of the-movable cutter and cooperating with the ledgerblade to automatically return the latter to its normal position during the return movement of said support.

12. AIn a combined seaming and -pinking machine, the combination witha stitch forming mechanism including a rotary shaft and a vertically reciprocatory needle; of a trimming mechanism including a vertically reciprocatory trimming blade located at one side'of the needle and having converging cutting edges, and a ledger blade cooperating therewith; and means operated by the shaft and including a reduction gear couplingfor reciprocating the trimming blade concomitantly with certain of the needle reciprocations.

13. In a combined seaming and trimming' machine, the combination with a rotary shaft, of a stitch .forming mechanism including a vertically reciprocable needle operated by said shaft, anda trimmer mechanism including a ledger blade and a vertically reciprocable blade cooperating therewith, a vertically movable fra'me carrying the movable blade, a cam rotated by the niain shaft ande operatively engaging said frame for vertically moving the latter, means for moving the reciprocatory blade and the ledger blade to inoperative'pos'itions, and means for restoring the cooperative relation ofthe reciprocatory blade and ledger blade upon return of the reciprocatory blade to its operative position..

14. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination with a rotary shaft, of a stitch forming mechanism including'a vertically reciprocable needle operated .by said shaft, and a trimmer mechanism including a ledger blade and a vertically reciprocabl'e blade cooperating therewith, ja vertically movable frame carrying the movable blade, a cam rotated by the main shaft and operatively engaging said frame for vertically moving the latter, means for moving the reciprocable blade to'an inoperative position, means for moving the ledger blade to inoperative position when the reci rocable blade is rendered inoperative, .an means movable with-the reciprocable blade for restoring cooperative relation of the bladeswhen the reciprocable blade is returned to its operativeposition.

15. In a combinedjseaming and trimming machine, the combination with a rotary shaft, of a stitch forming mechanism including a vertically reciprocable needleoperated by said shaft, and a trimmer mechanism including a ledger blade and a vertically reciprocable blade cooperating therewith, a vertically movable frame carrying the movable blade, a cam rotated by the main shaft and operatively engaging said frame for verticallyvmo-ving the latter, means for moving the reciprocable blade to an inoperative position, means including a spring for moving the ledger blade to inoperative position when the reciprocatory blade is rendered inoperative, and a cam linger movable with the reciproeable blade and engageable with the ledger blade for restoring cooperative relation of the blades Wh en the reciprocable blade is returned to its operative position.

16. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination with a rotar shaft, of a stitch forming mechanism inclu ing a vertically reciprocable needle operated by said shaft, 4and a trimmer mechanism including a ledger blade and a vertically reciprocable blade cooperating therewith, a vertically movable frame carrying the movable blade, a-.cam rotated by the main shaft and operatively engaging said frame for vertically moving the latter, means for silencing the reciproeable'blade, and means automatically active upon silencing of the reciprocable bl'ade to displace the ledger blade.

17. In a combined seeming and trimming machine, the combination with a rotary shaft, of a. stitch forming mechanism including a vertically reciprocable needle operated by said shaft, and a trimmer mechanism including a ledger blade and a vertically reciprocable blade cooperating therewith, a vertically movable frame carrying the movable blade, a cam rotated by the main shaft and operatively engaging said frame for vertically moving the latter, means for silencing the reciprocable blade and for returning it again to operative position, and means automatically active upon silencing of the reciprocable blade to displace the ledger blade and upon return of the reciproeable blade to. operative position replace the ledger blade in normal cooperative relation with the reciprocable blade.

18. Inga combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination with a rotary shaft, of a stitch forming mechanism including a vertically reciprocable needle operated by said shaft, and a trimmer mechanism ineluding a ledger blade and a vertically reciprocable blade cooperating therewith, a vertically movable pivoted frame carrying the movable blade,means cooperating with one of the blades to bodily move said blade toward the cooperating blade for yieldably holding thel blades in shearing engagement durin-g \the trimming operation, and a camrotated by the main shaft and having wiping contact with said fraine'intermediate the pivotal mounting of the. frame and the rcciprocable blade for vertically moving the latter.

19. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination with a rotary shaft, of a stitch forming mechanism including a vertically reciprocable needle operated by said shaft, and a trimmer mechanism including a ledger blade and a vertically reciprocable blade cooperating therewith, a vertically movable pivoted frame carrying'the movable blade, a cam rotated by the main shaft-and having wiping contact with said `frame intermediate the pivotal mounting of the frame and the reciprocable blade for vertically moving the latter in one direction, a spring cooperating with one of the blades to bodily move and yieldably hold that blade in shearing relation against the remaining blade during the trimming operation, and a spring for maintaining the frame in operative engagement with said cam.

20. In a combined seaming and trimlning machine, the combination with a main frame including a work support, a standard on the .work support, and an overhanging arm sup- -ported on the standard, of a stitch forming mechanism including a vertically reciproca-A.

ble needle mounted on the overhanging arm, a rotary shaft joui'naled inthe over-hanging arm and having operative connections with said needle, and a trimming-mechanism including a ledger blade and a cooperating movable blade, a cam rotatably supported by the overhanging arm, a gear coupling for imparting rotation from the rotary shaft to the cam, a lever carrying the movable blade disposed between the over-hanging arm and the work sup mrt, and means for pivotally mounting flu` ever in position for being operatively engaged and moved by said cam.

21. In a combined seaming and trimming machine., the combination with a main frame including a work support, a standard on the work support, and an overhanging arm supported on the standard, of a stitch forming mechanism including a vertically reciprocable needle mounted on the overhanging arm, a rotary shaft journaled in the over-hanging arm and having operative connections with the needle, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and acooperating movable blade, a cani rotatably supported by the overhanging arm, a gear coupling for 1mparting rotation from the rotary shaft to the cam, a lever carrying the movable blade disposed between the overhanging arm and the work support, and means for pivotally mounting the lever in position for being operatively engaged and moved by said cam, said gear coupling including reduction gearing for causing the blades to cooperatively engage during certain but not all needle strokes. i

22. In a combined seamin'g and trimming machine, the combination with a main frame including a work support, a standard on the work support, and an overhanging arm supported on the standard, of fastitch forming mechanism including a vertically reciprocable needle mounted on the overhanging arm, a rotary shaft journaled in the overhanging arm and having operative connections with said needle, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a cooperating movable blade, a cam rotatably supported by the overhanging arm, a gear coupling for imparting rotation from the rotary shaft to thecam, a lever carrying the movable blade disposed between the o'verhangin'g arm andthe work support, means for pivotally mounting the lever in position for being operatively engaged and moved by said cam, a spring for maintaining the lever in operative engagement with the cam, and means for yieldably holding the bladesv in shearing relation during operation.

23. In a combined seaming and pinking machine wherein is provided a work support andan overhanging arm, the combination with a stitch forming mechanismincluding a rotary shaft mounted in the arm and a vertically reciproeatory needle, of a trimming mechanism including a vertically reciprocatory-'trimming blade located at one side ofA the needle and having converging cutting edges and a ledger bladel cooperating therewith, a reciproeatory frame supported -beneath the arm. and carrying said trimming blade, means operated by the shaft for moving said frame, and means carried by A,the frame for rendering effective or ineffective at will said frame moving means.

24. In a combined seaming and pinking i machine wherein is provided a work support and an overhanging arm, the combination with a stitch. rforming mechanism including a rotary shaft mounted in the arm anda ing the frame concomitantly with certain of the needle reciprocations, and means carried by the frame lfor rendering effective or ineffective at will said frame moving means.

In testimony whereof I alix my signature.

' HORACE F. GRUMAN,

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