US1847290A - Covered heel and method of making same - Google Patents

Description

March 1, 1932. J BAZZONI 1,847,290

COVERED HEEL AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Jan. 26" 1929 Fatented Mar. 1, I932 STATES PATENT OFFICE LEWIS J. BAZZOITI, OF S'WAMPSCOTT, MASSACHUSETTS, .ASSIGNOR 'IO UNITED SHOE IVEACHINERY COILEOR-ATION, OF IPA'IJEEESON, NEV JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW v JERSEY COVERED AND REE-T301) OF lvEAKING SAME Application filed January 26, 1929. Serial No. 325,361.

One object of the present invention is to reduce the expense of making covered heels.

having paneled breast surfaces.

With this ob ect in view, and in accordance with the present invention, apaneled effect has been obtained in a covered heel without .recessin or otherwises eciall' are arin the surface of the heel in order to facilitate the production of the desired ehect, and-a heel has been provided with a breast covering com-.

prising frame and panel members having respectively portions overlapped upon the breast face of the heel and constructed and arranged to provide substantially flush joints between said members.

of overlap of the frame and panel members is such as to insure against danger of any portion of the heel core becoming exposed to view as a result of shrinkage of the heel covering. As illustrated, the paneled elfect has been produced at the breast of a Cuban heel and to this end a covering for the rear and sides of the heel has been provided with extensions arranged to overlap the lateral margins of the heel breast, and a separate breast cover or flap has been applied so as partlally to overlap the side cover extensions, the lateral edges of the separate breast cover being spaced inwardly from the breast corners of the heel so as to leave exposed upon the breast surface at each side of the breast cover relatively narrow portions of the side cover extensions in order that these narrow portions may serve to frame the separate breast cover and thereby produce the desired paneled effect. As herein shown, the edge thickness of the panel member may, if necessary, be reduced by bevelingor skiving to suchan extent that substantially flush joints are formed between the Patent No. T

As shown, the extent.

panel and the frame members, thus improving the appearance of the heel.

As illustrated, the side cover extensions or frame portions are rabbeted to receive the overlapping margins of the breast covering or panel, a shoulder being formed along the exposed even though the cover joints should open up more or less because of shrinkage of the covering or for any other reason. Moreover, as illustrated, the rabbeting is accomp ished in such a Way as to provide a beveled surface extending from each shoulder to the outer extremity of each side cover extension to receive the overlapping margins of the breast covering "ithout producing undesirable ridges in the latter. This construction and arrangement is further advanta geous inasmuch as it insures against the presence of any disfiguring bulge or ridge where the side cover extensions are overlapped by the breast covering and insures that a flush joint Will be secured between these p0rtions of the heel covering.

lhe invention also provides an improved method of covering heels which, as herein illustrated, consists in applying to one face ofa heel a cover portion adapted to constitute a panel and another cover portion in position to frame-one side of the panel, one of said cover portions having a beveled margin and the other having an unbeveled margin, and sec iring aid margins together with said unbeveled margin superposed upon said beveled margin.

0t ier features of the invention will be apparent from the following description and will be particularly defined in the appended claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a covered heelembodying features of the present invention whereby a. panel effect is obtained at the 7 heel breast;

I is illustrated as embodied in a heel H hav- Fig. 2 is a sectional view on an enlarged scale taken along the line llll of Fig. 1;

Figs. 3 to 7, inclusive, are fragmentary sectional views illustrating; successive steps in the improved method of heel covering hereinafter described;

Fig. 8 is a. fragmentary sectional view of a ing a side cover C and a breast covering B.

The side cover C extends around the rear and sides of the heel in the customary manner and has nd portions or extensions E which are-turned inwardly t the breast corners to overlap the lateral margins of the heel breast.

V The breast covering B is of less width than "sions E they do not entirely cover these extenthe heel breast and is applied so that while its lateral margins overlap the side cover extensions but leave narrow portions thereof exposed to view at each side of the breast covering so that a paneled heel breast effect is produced, the breast covering B constituting the panel and the side cover extensions serving to frame the opposite sides of the panel. In

" order to form flush joints between the breast covering l3 and the side cover extensions E- the latter are shown as being rabbeted to provide depressed surfaces l) for engagement with the margins of the breast covering and shoulders against which the edges of the breast covering abut. To avoid the presence of undesirable ridgesor bulges where-the breastcovering overlies the inner extremities of the side cover extensions, the depressed surfaces l) are beveled to form feathered iii-- ner edges sothat when the side cover extensions are laid in place against the breast edges of the heel the depressed surfaces D will blend with the transverse curvature of the breast face. The shoulders S are formed by cuts which, as shown in Fig. l, are parallel to the adjacent breast edges or corners of the heel. The breast cover B is trimmed to fit exactly wi hin the space between the shoulders S at the opposite sides of the heel breast and preferably the depth of the shoulder cuts is the same as the thickness of the breast cover sothat the outer surface of the breast cover is flush with the exposed surfaces of the side cover extensions.

In applying the side cover C itis coated with adhesive and wrapped around the rear and sides of the heel in the usual way, the opposite end portions or extensions E of the cover being left projecting beyond the breast corners, as shown in Fig. 3.

The rabbeting of each side cover extension may be effected, as shown in Fig. l, b the single stroke of a skiving knife such as a hand knife 12 having asingle fiat blade. To produce this result, as shown, the side cover extension is supported upon the beveled surface 14 at one end of a plate 16 which is laid against the uncovered breast surface of the heel. The knife, while being drawn across the side cover extension, is guided by the unbeveled upper surface of the plate 16 which is engaged by the free extremity of the knife blade. The angle between the beveled surface 14 and the unbeveled upper surface of the plate 16 is such that when the side cover extension is bent sharply over the end of the plate and made to assume the position shown in Fig. 4: the path of the knife, as determined-by the plane of the unbeveled upper surface-of the plate 16 is such as to cut through the outer surfaceof thecover extension along a line X located between the bend and the heel so that after the cut has been made the thickness of the bent-over portion of the cover extension, at its junction with the unbent portion thereof, is substantially less than the full thickness of the cover. Accordingly, when the bend is subsequently removed from the cover extension by laying it against the heel breast, as shown in ig. 5, the innermost portion of the skived surface will be disposed at an abrupt angle to the remainder of the skived surface, thereby forming the shoulder S. he thickness of the plate 16 serves to space the shoulder S from the corner of the heel breast and to insure that it will be parallel to the adjacent lateral edge of the heel breast. The distance between the shoulder S and the lateral edge of the heel breast may be varied by using plates 16 of different thicknesses. F urthermore, by employing plates having their end portions beveled at different angles, corresponding variations may be secured in the angle of bevel which is to be imparted to the side cover extensions. When the side cover extensions have been laid against the margins of the heel breast as above described they are firmly secured to the breast by the adhesive previously applied to the cover.

The breast coverings B are initially cut wide enough to overlap the unrabbeted portions of the side cover extensions and after being coated with adhesive and applied to the heel breast they appear as shown in Fig. 61 Subsequently the opposite lateral margins of the breast covering B are trimmed to adapt the covering to fit within the space between shoulders S, the paths of the trimming cuts being gaged from the adjacent lateral edges of the heel. For this purpose a hand trimming tool such as that shown at 18 in Fig. 8 may convenientlybe employed. As shown this tool comprises a rotary trimming knife 20 formed at one side of a gage roll 22 adapted to engage the outer edge of the breast covering to limit the depth of cut made by the knife 20 so that the knife will cut through knife 20 for determining tne path of trim-.

ming cutby engagement with the adjacent lateral edge or corner of the heel breast. By running this hand tool 18 alongthe breast corner from the top to the bottom of the heel the breast covering may be trimmed along lines coinciding with the lines of the shoulder cuts S. After being trimmed itis only necessary to press the lateral margins of the breast covering against the depressed surfaces D of the side cover extensions whereupon they will be securely held in place by adhesive previously applied to the breast covering.

If a breast covering is employed, having a thickness which is greater than the depth of the shoulders S, so that the margins of the breast covering project outwardly beyond the surfaces of the side cover extensions, this excess thickness may be reduced by the use of a buliing wheel such as that indicated at 26 in Fig. 8 thereby providing a flush joint between the breast covering and the side cover extensions.

In order to produce a paneled effect at the heel breast it is not essential, however,

that the margins of the side cover extensions f should be rabbeted as above described, inasmuch as a paneled effect may be obtalned by providing a breast covering which is narrower than the full width of the heel breast and applying the coveringso that its lateral margins overlap the side cover. extensions" but do not entirely cover them.

Preferably, as shown in Fig. 9, the margins of the breast covering and side c yer extensions are initially beveled or feather edged by means of slriving or bufling operations to insure that substantially flush joints will be produced. I

ll hile the invention is herein illustrated and described in connection with its appli-' cation to Cuban heels it is applicable also to Louis heels and the breast covering may be applied either before or after the heel is attached to a shoe. Moreover the breast covering may be an integral part of the shoe, e. g. a flap split from the sole and laid against the heel breast after the heel has been at tached. Accordingly, the claims are not to be construed as limited to unattached heels but as co "ering also heels which are attached to shoes and the breastsof which are covered by means such a flap which is integral with the sole of the shoe.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desireto secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. .A heel provided with a breast covering comprlsing frame and panel members having respectively portions overlapped upon the breast face of the heel and constructed and arranged to provide substantially flush joints between said members.

2. A heel having a paneled covering comprising fraineportions having beveled margins, and a panel portion located between said frame portions and overlapping the beveled margins only of the latter. 7

8'. A heel having a paneled covering coinp ising frame portions having their, inner mar ins rabbeted to provide shoulders spaced from the edges of said margins, and

a panel portion located between said frame portions and arranged with its opposite edges abutting the respective shoulders of said frame portions.

4. A heel having a paneled covering comprising a cover portion adapted to constitute a panel and another cover portion adapted to frame one side of the panel, one of said cover portions having a beveled margin and the other cover portion overlapping only the beveled margins of said cover portion.

.5. A heel having a paneled breast covering comprising frame portlonsoverlylng the lateral margins of the heel breast, and a panel potion partially overlapping said frame portions and having its exposed surface flush with the exposed surfaces of said frame portions.

6. A heel having a paneled breast covering comprising side cover extensions over-' lapping the lateral margins of the heel breast, said extensions being beveled and the outer edges of the beveled surfaces of said extensions being spaced from tne heel breast corners, and a breast cover having its lateral margins overlapping the beveled surfaces of the side cover extensions.

7. A heel having a paneled breast covering comprising side cover extensions overlapping the lateral margins of the heel breast, said extensions being beveled and the outer edges of the beveled surfaces of said extensions being spaced from the heel breast corners, and a breast cover having its lateral margins overlapping the beveled surfaces of the side cover extensions and reduced in thickness to provide flush joints between the breast cover and the side cover extensions.

8. A heel having a paneled breast covering comprising side cover extensions overlapping the lateral margins of the heel said extensions having their outer surfaces rabbeted to provide shoulders spaced from the heel breast corners and margins of less thickness than the unrabbeted portions of the side cover extensions, and a breast cover having its lateral margins of a thickness corresponding to the width of said shoulders seated in the rabbeted portions of the side cover extensions, the thickness of said lateral margins corresponding to the width of said shoulders so that the exposed surface of said cover is flush with the exposed surfaces of the side cover extensions.

10. A heel having a paneled breast covering comprising side cover extensions overlapping the lateral margins of the heel breast, each of said extensions having a shoulder formed in its exposed surface and spaced from the adjacent breast corner of the heel and having also a bevel d surface extending from said shoulder to the inner edge of the extension, and a breast cover having its lateral margins overlying the beveled surfaces of the respective side cover extensions and its lateral edges abutting the shoulders of the respective side cover extensions.

11. That improvement in methods of covering heels iich consists in rabbeting the margin of ieel covering, apply the rab beted portion of said covering to one face of heel to constitute a frame for a panel, applying a second covering to another face of the heel, and securing said coverings together with the margin of said second covering superposed upon said rabbete'd margin.

12. That improvementin methods of covering heels which consists in rabbeting the margin of a cover portion and applying said cover nortion to one face of heel to frame one side of a panel, applying to said heel ace second cover portion adapted to constitute a panel and positioning it with its nargin overlying the rabbeted margin of the frst cover portion, trimming the margin of tie second cover portion along the line of the inner edge of the channel formed by rabbetthe first cover portion, and fitting the margin of the second cover portion within said channel.

13. That improvement in methods of cove ing heels which consists in assembling wit a heel a cover portion adapted to constitute a panel and another cover portion adapted to frame one side of the panel, one of said cover )ortions havin one o' its marins of said shoulder, and fitting said margins to get-her with the trimmed edge of one abutting the shoulder of the other.

14. That improvement in methods of covering heels which consists in covering the rear and sides of a heel with a covering having marginal portions extending forwardly beyond the lateral breast ec ges of the heel, turning said'marginal covering portions inwardly and laying them against the lateral margins otthe heel breast, applying a breast covering to cover the uncovered portion of the heel breast and to overlap said inturned margins of the side covering, trimming each lateral margin of the breast covering along a line spaced outwardly from the inner edge of the respective inturned side cover margin and spaced inwardly a substantial distance from the ad acent lateral breast edge to provide a heel breast panel overlapping the inner portions of said inturned side cover margins and framed by the outer portions of said inturned side cover margins, and reducing the edge thickness of the margins of the breast coverings to make them substantially flush with said frame portions.

15. That improvement in methods of covering heels which consists in applying to the rear and sides of a heel a side cover having extensions adapted to overlap the lateral margins of the heel breast, rabbeting said cover extensions to receive the lateral edges of a. heel breast covering, applying said side cover extensions to the lateral margins oi the heel breast, applying to the heel breast a covering wide enough to extend outwardly beyond the rabbeted edge portions of the side cover extensions, trimming the lateral margins oi the breast covering along the lines of the outer edges of the rabbeted surfaces on the side cover extensions, and securing the trimmed edges of the breast covering to said rabbeted surfaces.

16. That improvement in methods of covering heels which consists in applying to the rear and sides of a heel a side cover havin extensions adapted to overlap the latera margins of the heel breast, slriving said cover extensions to produce beveled surfaces spaced from the lateral edges of the heel. breast, applying the skived side cover extensions to the heel breast, applying to the heel breast a covering wide enough to extend outwardly beyond the beveled edge portions of the side cover extensions, trimming the lateral margins of the breast covering along the lines the outer edges of the beveled surfaces on the side cover extensions, securing the trimmed edges of the breast covering to the side cover extensions, and butting the lateral margins of the breast covering to make them flush with the adjacent surfaces of the side cover extensions.

17. That improvement in methods of covering heels which consists in applying to the. rear and sides of a heel a side cover having extensions adapted to overlap the lateral margins of the breast face, forming in each of said side cover extensions a shoulder spaced from the adjacent breast corner of the heel and a beveled surface extending from the shoulder to the free edge of the cover ex tension, securing the beveled edge portions of the cover xtensions to the heel breast, applying to the heel breast a covering of a thickness equal to the depth of said shoulders and wide enough to extend outwardly beyond said shoulders, trimming the lateral margins of the breast covering along the lines of said shoulders, fitting the trimmed edges of the breast covering within said shoulders,

and securing them to the beveled surfaces of.

the side cover margins.

18. That improvement in methods of covering heels which consists in applying to the rear and sides of a heel a covering having extensions adapted to overlap the lateral margins of the breast face of the heel, rabbeting said extensions to provide recessed surfaces to be engaged by the lateral margins of a breast covering and shoulders to be en gaged by the edges of the breast covering, applying the rabbeted side cover extensions to skiving the outer surface of the inwardly bent portion of each side cover extension to pro vide a beveled surface extending from the inner edge of said inwardly bent portion to a location between the line of bend and the ad--' jacent lateral edge of the heel breast, laying the beveled side cover extension against the heel breast thereby eliminating the bend and causing a shoulder to be formed at the outer margin of the beveled surface, trimming a breast covering to lit the heel breast between said shoulders and applying the trimmed breast covering to the heelbreast.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

LEWIS J. BAZZONI.

the heel breast, applying to the breast a covering wide enough to overlie and extend beyond the rabbeted portions of the 'side' cover extensions, trimming the breast covering along the lines of the shoulders in the side cover extensions, and fitting the trimmed margins of the breast covering within the rabbeted portions of the side cover extensions.

19. That improvement in methods of cover ing heels which consists in applying to the rear and sides of a heel a covering having extensions ada ted to overlap the lateral marsins of the breast face. forming in each of said cover extensions a depressed surface extending outwa rdlv from the inner edge of the extension and a shoulder spaced inwardly from and parallel to the adiacent lateral edge of the heel breast and applvinrr the side cover ex ensions to the breast of the heel. applying a breast covering to the heel breast with the lateral margins of the breast covering overlvinn' the side cover extensions andextending o t 'ardlv bevond said shoulders. trimming the bre st covering to lit betweenlcaid sh oulders while engine the trimming cuts from the lateral edges of the heel breast. and securing the lateral margins of the breast coverin! in place against the depressed surfaces shoulders of the side cover margins.

20. That improvement in methods of covering heels which consistsin anplvine' to the rear and sides of a heel. a covering havin extensions adapted to overlap the lateral margins of the breast face, bending each of said cover extensions inwardly at a sharp angle along a line above and parallel to the adacent' lateral edge of the heel breast,

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