US1821471A - Arctic, shoe or overshoe - Google Patents

Description

Sept. 1, 1931. P. H. MARG ULIS ARCTIC, SHOE, 0R QVERSHOE Filed Oct. 28, 1926 2 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR P575? 414/9604 /s BY 7 7 MW Sept. 1, 1931.

P. H. MARGULIS ARCTIC, SHOE, OR OVERSHOE Filed Oct. 28, 1926 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Jig/0,

INVENTOR 1 576,? b. M40601 Patented Sept. 1, 1931 PETER I-I-.= MAR-GULIS, 1

Atacricisnonomovniesno'n;

Applioatidn'file'd October 28, 1926': Serial" no.- 144,709:

invention relates to" improvements" which areiespecially applicable to the class of foot' appiarel'commonly:called arctics, which i are usually; worn over shoes The *irnprove 5 ,111611'03, may, however,ib'eincorporatediin shoes of; otlier 'types such'; for: example," as types" analogous tolum'bermens; pacs,*iw h-ich are." wornover stockings-or sookswithout fan inner.- sho'e; vor 'in various work or sport shoesr 10; For brevity and; convenience; iitris 'sufiicient hereinafter toreferto overshoes-of the-arotic type;

155 a relatively. high lega'portion or upper with a novel bellows; formation, the front or 'b'ellows part of-whioh projects outward'land folds:

smoothly and compactly about the other leg:

folds which render the 'leg. structureincongven-ient,bulky; and unsightly;

A further'objectis'to provide, in connection with theyfeaturesrealizing the above stated object, simple and easily=operated fastening:

1116 ans A: further. object isto provide a leg 'or bellows 7 structure of the. closed type, that 153,111 which the legwalls are continuous and which at the-same time provides, when in open-position, and ample openinginto which the foot 357 is easily inserted; The folds of the bellows folds structure are relatively so shaped and.

proportioned that the natural tendencyof the bellows foldis to automatically fall or swing:

re'arwar'dly upon' the" acent" part of the. upper, and when it is fastened" in this posi tion, theupper and lower edges of the permanently set bellows fold are in close contact with theshoe.

A -more 5 particular obj e'ct is to provide an process of manufactureit is resilientlyset inapproximately, or permanently set with-a foldededge, so that its upper edges'm'ayeasily" and automatically 1 open a up, for the insertion or withdrawal of the foot with its shoe; and

The general object of: the invention is to r. provide anfi oviershoe ofthis :class; which has :5; upper'or'bellows structure','by-whioh in the V shoe infolded or fastened position and with wherrirel'eased from its fastening m'eans, said bellowswill naturally fa'll onspring back, ina near-lytcl'osedposition about the wearers leg,

therebyto facilitate its=instant'fastening into position.

The clraracteristics and advantages ofthe invention are further suliiciently explained iIrconnection with the followingdetai-l description of the accompanying drawings; which shows one" exemplifying i embo dim'ent of theinvention. After considering:this ex ample, skilled persons will understandthat many variations ma'yfi'b'e made, and" I contemplatel the employment of any structures that are properlywithiir the scope 'ofithe' zip-' pendrliclaim'si In: the drawings I E g1 leis; ai plan viewof a ina-in'topiblank;

Fig. Qis' a plan'view of 'a bellows liningzl Fig; is 'a-iflplan view of a rubber upper Fig. 4: is a=perspectiveview of a culfi lining; Fig, 5 isiai sideelevation' of thei shoe or oversh'oe structure upon. a: last,-. with parts" brokenuaway; to 'di-sclose the structure and preferred method of assembly. a

Fig: fi-i's a sideelevation of' the completed structure removed from thelast', with the bellows; portion and fastening flaps in open' orext'en'de'd position, and with parts broken awayf an'd in section. v

Eigt 7: is asection at 7 7, Fig; 6*showin'gu the bellows"swung inwardly-' to a semi-closed position.

Fig Sis a view similar to Fig, 6; with; the" bellows 1 structure folded "and secured, exceptfor one fastening.flap, which is'in extended I position;

Fig;i'9fis-a sid'e elevation' of'the top portion of the top structure incompletely folded and ed" or upright position.v

fastene'diposition and'with the 'cuff in unfold Fig: 10ii-s a similar view fromthe'opposite Sid'e 'of thestructure:-

- o F'g'all shows the completeshoe' or'overthe cuif'tunneddown' or folded,-

'Theove'rshoe :01 artic is convenientlybuilt upon a last In A'mainliningr1 of any. suit able fabric'is appliedto'the last, covering the may in some cases be in two pieces, butpreferably is as shown in a single piece, and when so made is conveniently designated as the rubber upper in distinction from the sole and other rubber portions of the overshoe. This rubber upper includes the vamp portion 5 'andthe rear or counter portions 6, which are extended to form heel portions 7. In this blank the edge 8 will define the foot opening and the rear edges 9 are shaped so that when they are brought together and secured by any known method, the rubber upper. or foot portion of the structure is completed in proper shape, as shown in Figs. 5 or 8. The rubber upper may be applied to the foot part of the last either before or after the top or leg portion is applied, and then secured to the latter, as referred to hereafter.

The tops or leg portions of artics or similar articles are usually of cloth or rubberized fabric. Such material is therefore preferably used for my top or leg structure which is, however, of novel and improved construction in many important respects. The main top blank 10 of cloth or rubberized fabric may be made in two or more parts, but, desirably, for economy and convenience of manufacture it is made in a single piece, as shown in Fig. 1, including the side or leg portions 11, 11a, cuff portions 12, 12a, fastener flaps or tongues 13 and l t, and bellows portions 21 and 22. Fig. 1 shows the inside or reverse face of the top 10 and dotted lines indicate lines upon which the material is to be folded or creased in process of manufacture or in theman1pula= tion of the completed overshoe. 1 Detailsof the top 10 are further explainedindescribing its incorporation into the overshoe or its form in the completed article. i In order to provide a thin, close-fitting bellows edgeof definite and permanent form, as furtherexfolded along line 15 which defines this outer bellows edge, and along other parallel lines 16, which define strips 17 of the fabric which are to be secured together to form a relatively thin or permanently secured outer bellows margin 18. For this purpose the blank may be placed upon a board having'a narrow slot and with a dull blade or similar implement the fabric is pressed into the slot so that the line 15 of Fig. 1 nowbecomesfthe bellows edge, as shown in Figs. 5 and 6, and; thezones or strips 17 are broughttogether and secured by adhesive'such as rubber cement to form the outer bellows margln 18, Flgs. 5

and 6. Desirably, although not necessarily in all cases, I also provide a bellows lining 20, Fig. 2. This provides for proper lining of the bellows portion of the cloth top structure, the side or leg portions 11, 11a being lined by the corresponding or underlying portions of the main lining 1, previously referred to. Fig. 2 shows the inner or reverse side of the bellows lining, which is dimensioned to correspond with the outline of the bellows portions 21 and 22 of the main or fabric top 10 after it has been creased and secured to form the edge-fold formation as just described. Thus the center line of the bellows lining, indicated by the dotted line 23, corresponds to the lines 16 of the top fabric after folding in the manner above described, and the bellows lining portions 24 and 25 at either side ofthe center line 23 correspond respectively to'the bellows portions 21'and 22 of the main top blank 10. Bellows lining portion 25 also has a projecting flap 26 to underlie and cor respond in outline to fastening flap 14 of the top blank bellows portion 22. Desirably, also, a cuff lining 30, Fig. 4 is provided, which may be integral with the main lining, or separate, as shown. If separate, it is usually of th e same material as to the top blank, although it may be of a different or contrasting material. The separate lining strip, such as 30, is applied to the last and the upper margins of the leg portions of the'main lining, which are cut off at about the line 43, Figs. 601' 8, are secured to the lower margin of the cuff lining. When the top blank is applied and secured, as later referred to, the

cuff lining is therefore. positioned ready to underlie and line'the upper parts of the top side or leg members 11 and 11a. When the therefore be in harmony with the other exposed portions of thetop or if, as stated, it is of a contrasting material, it will provide a novel and pleasing appearance of contrast with the rest of the cloth top. In some cases P ained hereafter, the blank is desirably f upper Portions of the Sides of the main lining may constitute the cuff lining, and in such cases the main lining sides or leg portions are cut so that their upper edges are alined with the upper edges of the top blank cuff portions 12 and 1211 when the top blank reenforcing or lining piece of the form of the blank section 32, of Fig. 1, may be applied to the fastening flap 13, or the main flap and its reenforcement may be made as shownin Fig.

1, as integral parts of the blank, these flaps being connected along the line 33 and the reenforcing flap 32 being separated from the adjacent cuff portion 12 by acut 34.. The

is applied, as later referred to. A separate I reenforcement: isfoldedover and adhesively' secured to the mainflap;

The fabric top 10",partly linedand formedas'above described; is nowa-ppli'edover the side. or leg portions of the main lining; and

properlyshaped about-said lining upon the last and "adhesi'vely secured tothe main lining: The loweredges of-the top structure are lapped over the upper margins of the foot openings ofthe rubber-u-pper,- and pres'sedor otherwise securedth-ereto. The edges 41 are 1 brought" together usually without 1 overlap, b'u-tclosely abutting to form aerearseam on line of" jomder of the topor leg structure,

andpressed' firmly-inposition upon themaih above described, andthelines 42a indicate the positions ofthe edges 42?) of th'e bellows lining after that has been appliedto the mainii top blank-1' Before the overshoe -is vulcanized, the bellows'folds structure-has been given the. per? manent set, whereby to impart the-{bias or tendency to automatically swing rearwardly back upon the adj acentupper: This tendency: or bias is due-to the relative shapeand proportion ofthe-folds of the bellowsyfolds,

so that-no lappingor foldi-ng operationis;

.moved; the bellows structure has permanecessary in placingthe shoe. When the-footisinsertedrwith the dress shoe thereon, theparts naturally tend, becauseof theirrelative shape and proportion, to assume the position ofFigures -8 and ll; in;suchposition-that f 111 F310. Th i th f te 1nd u mes m 1g Gr as back; into. the approximately closedflposition connection: or-fasteningis facilitated. The

edge 15 lies closealongthe surface--'of"thei leg portion of the shoe, andthe-upper edge of the bellows fOldflS somewhat below-thelower edgeof-the cuft fold-. The--up-perend? 4A: of the edge fold'15 wil-l then usually-lie" about at. the rear-seam of the cloth top structure, and the bellows fastening flap is carried around the; other. side-of tl'ie leg and overlies leg portion- 11a substantially in" 3 tlieposition shown in dottedlinesin Fig. 8'

flap 13 is then brought down against'theleg portion and ove'rlappedupon the fla -14, and

suitable'fasteners, such as- 50 and-51 are provided on therespeotiVe flapsto securethem together: VVhenthe fasteners-are, as: shown, of the ball and socket type, com-w monly knownas "snap fasteners ,.a plurality:

ofthe-ball or studinembers 51 arerdesirablyprovided on flap: 14? spacedirelation', and a single one of the a socket a members 50. may:

The side or leg portions 11, 11'atheir b'eprovided near the endof the; other flap '13 'to comperate with aselected one of? the st-t1dsand so to provide a: substantial range ofadjustment to fit difierent legrdimensions, orto'providethe desired snug-or loose fit around the leg.

It is now apparent that the different=for- {nations of-the upperiportions of the bellows sections: 21" and 22 are of substantial im-- portance. The'portion- 21' desirably is cut with-its upper edge 55 considerably below the upper edge 41a of th-e portion 22 whichis extended toform' the upper'edge contour: of. the-fastening-fiap 14. When the-bellows autos matically drops into position about the leg, as above described, the upper portion of the bellows pa-rt 22 eXtends-- above the. edge. 55 of the other-bellows section, orin other words, this upperportion of the folded bellows structures is'of single thickness, to avoid un due thickness or bulkinessof the bellows for:- mation adjacent the cufi. This arrangement" also leaves a singlethintop edge 41a, which will fit' snugly and tightly about the leg. p01".- tions, in direct contact with one. ofzthem, and aid mater-iallyin excluding dirt and moisture.

At any-ti'me after: the-rubber upper leis. applied to the foot portion of thelast' the rubber-outersole 60- is applied: and secured over the iuturned lower margins of the rubber: upper. The complete overshoe withthebellows structure foldedand secured in the described-manner, is thenvulcanized, and in this operation all the parts are permanently nent-flXible-setin its folded' position, or'in:

"othewwords, as best shown-in the-section View, Fig. 7 the-bellows parts naturally tend' tofall or spring into the approximate position' shown: in that figure, that is, to approximatelyclosed position. This is because the parts haVe beenoriginally folded-and fas- .tenedandEwulcaniZed in that position; which is the position that they" willhave when fas; tened .upon the leg of the wearer. There fore wheirthe bellows formation is extended substantially as shown in Fig: 6,to provide a very-wide and free opening into which the footiseasily inserted, the. bellows. structure will, .upon release, immediatelyspring ,or fall of.,Fig,..7 and fall in direct contact with the adjacent upper whenhsaidf arctic. or over;

shoeiisfreer from..the hands ofthe wearer f The -fi-nalclosing; and. fastening of I the bele lowsin correct position is thusgreatly facili- Evidently the cuff structure is such that the overshoe may be worn with the cuff turned up or down, and when turned down it partly or entirely covers and conceals the fasteners and adjacent portions of the fastening flaps.

I claim: a 1. An overshoe having at the front thereof a bellows structure formed by integral extensions from the upper, said extensions having the edges remote from the upper secured together in face to face relation to form a thin edge and to bias the extensions to lie face to face, a permanently set crease being provided at the junction of one extension with the upper to bias the structure to normally swing to that side of the overshoe provided with the crease and against the adjacent side of the upper, said structure of a length to extend to the rear of the upper and to lap upon the opposite side, and cooperating complemental fastening means in connection with the structure and the top of the overshoe, one of said means being at the upper outer corner of the bellows structure, and the other so positioned with respect to the upper that when said means are engaged the 7 free thin edge of the structure will be drawn and held close against the upper.

2. An article of footwear comprising a lower or foot portion and, a top structure extending therefrom, said top structure including leg portions connected at the rear and separated at the front and bellows portions extending from the front edges of the leg portions, said bellows portions being connected at their outer edge which flares diagonally upward and outward when the bellows structure is open to provide a wide top opening, the bellows portions being foldable rearwardly upon and about one of the leg portions to form a snug and close fitting closure, the upper margin of one of the bellows portions projecting substantially abovethe upper edge of the other bellows portion, providing a bellows top of reduced thickness forming a close, tight, moistureand dirt-excluding edge of the bellows structure when in closed position.

3. An overshoe having at the front thereof a bellows structure formed by integral extensions from the upper and a lining for the extensions, said extensions having the edges remote from the upper secured directly together in face to face abutting relation and with the lining extending across the connection to provide a thin edge and to normally hold said extensions face to face, a permanentlyset crease being provided at the junction of one extension with the upper to bias the structure to normally swing to that side of the overshoe provided with the crease and against the adjacent side of the upper, said structure of a length to extend to the rear of the upper and to lap upon the opposite side, and cooperating complemental fastening means in connection with the structure and the top of the overshoe, one of said means being at the upper outer corner of the bellows structure, and the other so positioned with respect to the upper that when said means are engaged the free thin edge of the structure will be drawn and held close against the upper.

34. An overshoe having at the front thereof a bellows structure formed by integral extensions from the upper, said extensions havingthe edges remote from the upper secured together in face toface relation to form a thin edge and to normally hold said extensions face to face, a permanently set crease being provided at'the junction of one extension with the upper to bias the structure to normally swing to that side of the overshoe provided with the crease and against the adjacent side of the upper, said structure of a length to extend to the rear of the upper and to lap upon the opposite side, and cooperating complemental fastening means in connection with the structure and the top of the overshoe, one of said means being at the upper outer corner of the bellows structure, the other so positioned with respect to the upper that when said means are engaged the free thin edge of the structure will be drawn and held close against the upper, and a cuff for concealing the fastening means.

5. A shoe of the class described having a bellows structure formed by integral. extensions from the upper, said extensions having the edges remote from the upper secured togetherin face to face relation to form a thin edge and to bias the extension to lie face to face, a permanently set crease being provided at the junction of one extension with the upper to bias the structure to normally swing to that side of the shoe provided with the crease and against the adjacent side of the upper, said structure being of a length to extend to near the rear of the upper and terminating in a fastening strap, and cooperating complemental fastening means in connection. with the structure and the top of the shoe, one of said means being at the upper outer corner of the bellows structure,

and the other so positioned with respect to,

the upper that when said means areengaged the free thin edge of the structure will be drawn and heldclose against the upper.

6. A shoe of the class described having a bellows structure formed by integral extensions from the upper, said extensions having the edges remote from the upper secured together in face to face relation to form a thin edge and to bias the extensions to lie face to face, a permanently set crease being provided at the junction of one extension with the upper to bias the structure to normally swing to that side of theshoe provided with the crease and against the adjacent side of the upper, said structure of a length to extend in rear of the upper, and adjustable means in connection with the upper and the structure to connect said structure to the upper.

7. An article of foot wear, including a vamp and an upper having an outside bellows structure extending from the front edges of the upper and having at the outer portion thereof an integral fastening means, the lower edge of said bellows secured at its throat to the vamp, said bellows having a permanently set straight line thin edge inclining upwardly and forwardly, and terminating below the fastening means, said bellows creased to automatically drop into a semi-closed position upon the adjacent upper preparatory to securing it in place.

8. An article of footwear, including a vamp, and an upper having an outside sub stantially triangular bellows structure extending from one side of the upper, said structure formed of inner and outer portions, the outer portion extending above the inner portion and having an extension provided with a fastener, and a fastener on the upper for cooperating with the fastener of the extension.

Signed at New York city in the county of New York and State of New York this 20th day of October A. D. 1926.

PETER H. MARGULIS.

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