US1703954A

US1703954A - Buttonhole-sewing machine

Info

Publication number: US1703954A
Application number: US280704A
Authority: US
Inventors: Franklin A Reece
Original assignee: Reece Button Hole Machine Co
Current assignee: Reece Button Hole Machine Co
Priority date: 1919-03-05
Filing date: 1919-03-05
Publication date: 1929-03-05
Anticipated expiration: 1946-03-05

Description

Mar 5, 1929. F ECE 1,703,954-

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Original Filed March 5. 1919 9 Sheets-Sheet 1 Fi .24. 40 54 g \nvenim'. FTunNin A. Reece by WSYMCL fiU/WM Afiys.

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Mar. 5, 1929. F. A. REECE 1,703,954

B UTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Original Filed March 5.- 1919 9 Sheets-Sheet 6 Fig 11 Mar. 5, 1929. F. A. REECE BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Original Filed March 5- 19 9 hee s-S ee 8 lie.

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BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Original Filed March 5. 1919 9 Sheets-Sheet 9 B5 I08 g \nventor. FranKhn A.Re.e. c e

Patented Mar. 5, 1929.

UNITED STATES 1,10 ,954 PATENT OFFICE.

FRANKLIN A. REECE, F CHESTNUT HILL, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE REEGE BUTTON HOLE MACHINE COMPANY. OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MAINE.

Application filed March 5, 1919; Serial N0. 280,704. Renewed October 5, 1927.

This invention relates to buttonhole sewing machines of the type illustrated in my Patent No. 1,343,278, granted June 15, 1920, and has a for its object to provide various improvements in the mechanism illustrated in said application which result in a greater accuracy and certainty in operation, which permit the machine to be run at an increased speed, and by which an improved product can be produced.

In order to give an understanding of my invention, 1 have illustrated in the drawings a selected embodiment thereof which will now be described, after which the novel features will be pointed out in the appended claims.

Fig. 1 is a side View of a sewing machine embodying my invention;

Fig. 2 is a view of the main cam developed;

Fig. 3 is an underside view of the sewing machine;

Fig. 4 is a vertical section through the head and bed of the sewing machine;

Fig. 4 is an enlarged section on the line' Fig. 5 is a front elevation of the head or- Fig. 13 is a section on the line 1313,-

Fig. 12;

Fig. 14 is a section on the line 14, Fig. 3, showing one of the actuating devices for the main cam;

Fig. 15 is a section on the line 15,-Fig. 8,

' showing the other actuating device for the main cam;

Fig. 16 is a reduced section on the line 1616, Fig. 18;

Fig. 17 is a detail of the cam-feeding device shown in Fig. 15;-

Fig. 18 is an enlarged sectional View on the line 18-18, Fig. 15;

Fig. 19 shows the character of the buttonhole made on my improved machine;

Fig. 20 is a View somewhat similar to Fig. 9, but showing the parts in different position;

Fig. 21 is a view similar to Figs. 10 and 11 showing the parts in different position;

Fig. 22. is a fragmentary view showing the connection between the switch cam and the needle carrier;

Fig. 23 is a section on the line 232'3, Fig. 7

Figs. 24 and 25 are views of the stop motion;

Fig. 26 is a view of the clutch and stop motion showing the clutch released but the stop motion not in operation.

1 indicates the frame of the sewing machine which is provided with the bed plate portion 2 that carries the work-holding means and with the head or overhanging arm 3 which supports the upper thread-handling mechanlsm.

The work-holding means is in the form of a clamp plate 4 which is slidably mounted in ways in the bed 2, and a work clamp 5 arranged to clamp the Work against the clamp plate 4 as usual in buttonhole sewing machines. The clamp plate 4 is given a feeding movement toward and from the front of the bed plate 2 during the formation of the edge stitches s on a buttonhole by means of a main cam 40 which is situated beneath the bed plate 2 and is operatively actuated from the driving shaft 10. .The connection between the clamp plate 4 and the main cam is similar to that shown in my said patent and comprises an elbow-lever 51 situated on the under side of the bed plate and pivoted thereto at 52, one arm of the elbow-lever being connected by a link 53 to the clamp plate 4 and the other arm of saidlever having a roll operating in a feed cam groove 54 formed in the main cam 40. This cam is provided at one end'with a hub 61 which is journaled in bearings 59 and at the other end it is supported on a center 402. 4

The upper thread-handling mechanism is in the form of the usual eye-pointed needle 6 which is carried by a vertically-reciprocating needle bar 7. The under thread-handling mechanism is in the form of the usual rotary hook which is indicated generally at 8 and which is situated beneath the work-holding around a bobbin confined within the bobbin 7 case 9, as usual in sewing machines of this type, thereby to produce an interlocking geared to a horizontal shaft 14 by means of suitable bevel gears 15, and the lower end of the shaft being geared to another horizontal shaft 16 by means of suitable bevel gears 17. The upper shaft 14 is that which operates to reciprocate the needle, said shaft carrying at its outer end a crank pin 18 which is connected by a link 19 to the needle bar 7 The lower shaft 16 is geared to a shaft 20 by means of gearing 21 and the hook 8 is carried by the shaft 20.

In order to provide means for adjusting the hook 8 so that it will operate in proper time with the movements of the needle 6, I propose to make the shaft 16 in sections and to use an adjustable coupling between these sections. This construction is shown in Fig. 4 wherein the shaft 16 is shown as having one section provided with the beveled gear. 17 and another section 16 which is provided with a spiral gear 21. The first-named section has asleeve 190 fast thereon which sleeve projects beyond the end of the shaft and is provided with the interior beveled surface 191. The end of the shaft section 16 extends into the end of the sleeve 190 and it has mounted thereon a split cone-shaped clampin memher 192 which is adapted to engage t e cone face 191 of the sleeve 190. 193 is a clamping nut screw-threaded to the sleeve 190 and adapted to bear against the end of the clamping member 192. When the nut 193 is tightened the clamping member 192 will be forced into the cone end 191 of the sleeve 190, this operation resulting in contracting the clamping member 192 and causing it to clamp firmly the shaft section 16*. If it is desired to make any adjustment m the relative position of the hook and the needle, this can be readily done by loosening the nut 193 thereby relieving the clamping pressure,-aft-er which.

the shaft section 16 is free to be turned relative to the other section of the shaft. When the proper adjusmentis made and the nut 193 is tightened the two shaft sections will be rigidly clamped together.

The stitching mechanism is of that type in which the needle 6 has a lateral jogging motion as it reciprocates so that the alternate needle thrusts are made at the center line of the buttonhole, and the other thrusts are made through the goods at a distance back from said center line thereby to form the edge stitches s of the buttonhole. The necessary jogging movement of the needle is accomplished by means somewhat similar to that shown in my above-mentioned application. The needle bar 7 reciprocates in bearings 22 formed in a frame or carrier 23 which is provided with arms 24 that are pivoted at 25 to two blocks br supports 26. Said carrier is connected by a link 27 to a horizontallyswinging arm 28 that is pivoted to the frame at 29, said arm carrying a shoe 30 which operates in a switch cam 31 of usual construction that is carried by the shaft 14. This switch cam operates 1n usual way to give the arm 28 a vibratory motion which is communicated through the link 27 to the carrier 23, said cam operating to vibrate the carrier at one-half the speed at which the needle is reciprocated, so that the alternate thrust of the needle will be through the goods at the slit of the buttonhole, and the other thrusts will be through the goods at a distance back from the slit.

The needle bar carrier not only has its jogging movement above described, but also has an added movement at the ends of the buttonhole by which the barring stitches b are formed and which results in shifting the needle from one side of the buttonhole to the other. This addedmovement is given to it by moving the blocks or carriers 26, as in my above-mentioned patent. said patent the movement of the blocks or carriers is a vibratory movement with the resultthatbarringstitches of different lengths are produced. In the device herein illustrated, however, such movement of the blocks or carriers at each end of the buttonhole is an intermittent movement in one direction with the result that the barring stitches are of the same length but have a progressive arrange ment transversely of the buttonhole. These blocks or carriers 26 are mounted in ways or rooves 32 and each is connected by a toggleeverconnection 34 to a vertically-extending rock-shaft 33 which is pivoted in the frame. The lower toggle-lever connection is connected by a link 35 to an arm 36 which is mounted on a vertically-extending rock-shaft an arm 38 carrying a roll that operates in a barring cam groove 39 formed in the main cam 40. The lateral swinging movement of the arm 38 will thus operate to straighten or buckle the toggle levers 34 thereby moving the blocks or carriers 26 in their grooves 32. In the present mechanism the barring cam groove 39 is utilized to control devices that operate to stop the machine at the correct time, and hence it has a greater throw than is necessary to produce the required bodily movement of the blocks or carriers 26. I, therefore, propose to employ a reducing connection between the shaft 37 and arm 36 by which the arm 36 will have a less swinging movement than if it were connected directly. to the shaft 37. This special connection is In the device of L shown in Figs. 7 and 8, and it comprises an oscillating member 41 loosely mounted on a stud 42 and provided with a pin 43 which operates in a recess formed in the under side of the arm 36 and also provided with a tooth -14 which is received in a notch 4-5 formed in the shaft- 37. This tooth 4i and notch 45 constitute a gear connection by which the oscillating movement of the shaft. 3? is transmitted to the rocking member ll, and the. rocking movement of the member 11 is in turn transmitted'to the arm 23) through the pin 43.

The above parts are so constructed that the amplitude of oscillating movement which is given to the arm 36 is less than that which it would have if it were made fast to the shaft. 37. It will not be necessary to use this re.- ducing connection except where the barring cam has athrow greater than necessary to produce the required movement in the blocks 26.

The cam groove 39 is so designed that it will turn the shafts 37 thereby to give a uni directional bodily movement to the blocks 26 and the carrier 23 at each end of the huttonhole. but will hold said shaft and blocks stationary ,duringthe formation of the edge stitches s.

' I have provided herein an adjustable connection between the link 35 and arm 36 by which the extent of the bodily movement of the blocks 26 and thus the length of the bar on the buttonhole may be varied. The arm 36 is provided with a slot 46 and the link 35 1s forked at its'end to embrace the arm 36, the two arms of the fork being connected by a pin t? which operates in the slot 46. The link 35 carries a nut through which is screw-threaded an adjusting screw 48 that is rotatably mounted in bearings 49 carried by the arm 36. This nut is slidably mounted on the link so that it can move longitudinally thereof as the link is adjusted towards the ends of the slot. The outer end of this screw 4-8 is'accessible through the side of the frame and is provided with a screw-driver slot by which the screw may be turned to adjust the position of the link 35 in the slot -16.

It will be remembered that the main cam lt) is provided with the feeding cam groove 5t by which the work is given its feeding 1novement and alsowith the barring cam groove 39 which operates the barring mechanism. These cam grooves are shown develo ed in Fig. The feeding cam groove has the two tion of barring stitches at the end of the buttonhole, in the other inclined portion durbuttonhole, and in the. other intermediate portion 56 during the barring at the other end of the buttonhole.

The barring groove 39 is provided with the two straight portions 57 which are situated opposite the feeding portions 55 of the feeding groove and with the inclined barring portions 58 situated between the straight portions 57. Hence when the feeding portion 55 of the feeding groove is acting on the lever. 51 to give the work clamp its feeding move ment one of the straight portions 57 of the bar ing groove 39 is acting on the follower on the arm 38 thereby holding, the barring mechanism inactive, and when the stitching on one side of the buttonhole is completed the follower on the elbow-lever 51 will pass into the portion 56 of the cam groove 54: and the.

follower on the arm 38 will pass into the barring portion 58 of the barring groove 39. While the follower on the arm 38 is traversing the portion 58 during the formation of the barring stitches, the arm 38 will be given a gradual swinging movement which will operate through the shaft 3?, arm 36 and toggles 3-]: to give the blocks 26 a gradual movement transversely ofthe line of feed or in the direction of the ogging movement of the needle. This gradual bodily movement of the blocks 26 produces the barring stitches Z). If the portion 56 of the cam groove 5% is straight, then there will be no feeding movement of the work during the formation of the barring stitches and'the barring stitches will be in the same transverse line. I-will preferably make this portion 56 of the came groove with a gradual rise toward the center so that during theformation of half the ha rring stitches there will be a very slow feeding movement of the work-holding means'in one direction, and during-the. formatitm'of the final barring stitches there. will be a slow feeding movement in the opposite direction. This will cause the barring stitches I) to have the arrai'igement shown in Fig. 19. The distance which the blocks or carriers 26 are moved forward at each step of the unidirectioi'ial forward movement is considerably less than the jogging movement of the needle and said movement is in a direction substantially par allel to the path of the needle during its jogging movement.

The main cam is actuated from the drivingshaft 16 by two separate actuating devices one of which is operative to drive said cam during the formation of the edge sitches s, and the other of which is operative to drive the cam during the formation of the barring stitches b. The actuating device for driving said cam during the formation of the edge stitches s of the buttonhole is shown in Fig. 14 and it comprises a clutch member 60 loosely mounted on the hub 61 of the cam member and having two dogs 62 pivoted ltltl llO lit)

thereto at 64 and the ends of which are adapted to engage the clutch surface 63 formed on the cam 10. These clutch dogs are so constructed that when the clutch member 60 is turned in the direction of the arrow in Fig. 14-, they will clutch the surface 63 so as to drive the cam forward, while when the clutch member turns in the opposite direction, they will ride over the surface 63. These dogs are held in their operative position by means of springs 65.

The clutch member is given an oscillatory movement from the main driving shaft- 10 by means of an eccentric 66 thereon, the eccentric strap 67 of which is provided with an arm 68 that is pivotally connected to the clutch member 60 at 69. This clutch actuator is operative continuously when the machine is running.

The other actuating device which operates to give the cam 40 its movement during the formation of the barring stitches is situated to operate on the other end of the cam and is illustrated in Figs. 3, 15, 16 and 18. The construction of the cam grooves in the cam -10 is such as to necessitate a faster turning movement of the cam during the formation of barring stitches than during the formation of the edge stitches. Hence when the cam is, rotated at the increased speed for the formation of the barring stitches, said cam will simply be carried ahead of the clutch dogs 62.

The actuator for operating the cam during the formation of the barring stitches comprises an eccentric 70 on the shaft 10 with. which co-operates an eccentric strap 71 having an arm 72 which leads to and actuates a clutch device that is arranged to become automatically operative when the edge stitches on the buttonhole are completed and to re maiii operative until the barring stitches are completed. The end of the cam 40 1s recessed and situated Within the recess is a floating ring '73 which is normally disconnected from the cam. Situated Within the rlng 1s an expansion clutch member 74 which is connected at 77 to the arm 72 of the eccentric and is thereby given an oscillatory movement. Means are provided for expanding this clutch member 74 thereby clutching it to the ring 73 during its movement in one direction and for unclutching it from said ring during its movement in the opposite direction. The ring 73 is thus'fed forward with an inter mittent movement. The clutch member 74 is expanded to clutch it to the ring 73 by means of two toggle elements 75 which are pivoted to the clutch member 7 4 at opposite sides of the split therein so that when the central pivotal point 76 of said toggle memhers is forced outwardly to straighten the toggle, the clutch member 74 will be expanded. The clutch member 74 is pivotally connected to the end of the arm 72 at 77 so that the operation of the eccentric 70 will give oscillation to the clutch member. Loosely mounted on the hub of the cam is a controlling member 78 which is provided with a cam surface 79 adapted to engage the toggle levers 75 at the point 76. This member 78 is provided with an arm 80 which is engagedby a pin 81 situated within and extending longitudinally of the eccentric arm 72. The inner end of this pin 81 is provided with a roll 82 which is adapted to engage a cam face 83 formed on the eccentric 70. This cam face has a high portion 86 and a low portion 85, and the arm 80 is acted on by a spring 84 which holds the roll in engagement with the cam face. During each rotation of the shaft 10 and eccentric 70 the entire cam face 83, including both the high portion and the low portion, will travel under the roll 82. When the roll is resting against the low portion 85 the action of the spring 84 will pull the arm 80 inwardly, thus turning the controller 78 sufficiently to withdraw the cam 79 from engagement with the toggle lever 75, thus allowing the toggle to break sufliciently to rclease the clutch 7 4 from its clutching engagement with the ring 73. hen, however. the roll passes onto the high portion 86 of the cam face, as shown in Fig. 15, the pin 81 is moved outwardly thereby acting against the arm 80 and turning the controller 78 so as to bring the cam 79 against the portion 76 of the toggle member 7 5 and straightening the latter thereby expanding the clutch and clutching the latter to the ring 73. Thus during One-half revolution of the shaft 10 and while the eccentric arm 72 is nnoving in one direction, the clutch member 74 will be clutched to the ring 73 thereby turning the latter, while during the other. half revolution of the shaft the clutch 74 will be free. The ring 73 is thus given an intermittent forward movement continuously while the machine is in operation. The construction of the cam face 83 on the eccentric 70 is such that the 'toggle levers 75 are not broken until the eccentric reaches the limit of its movement in one direction and, therefore. the. clutch 74 is connected to the ring 73 during the entire forward movement thereof and is not released until the ring has been brought to rest. Consequently the ring will be positively brought to rest at the end of each forward movement obviating the possibility of the ring overrunning. The clutch 74 is'thus brought into clutching engagement at the end of the return stroke and is maintained in clutching engagement until the end of the entire forward movement said clutch has a forward driving action on the driven member 73 during the first part of the forward stroke and a retarding action on the last part of the forward stroke thus bringing the memher 7 3 and the cam to rest at the end of the forward stroke. Such a clutch maybe described as a clutch having a two-way clutching engagement or may be described as a two-way clutch, by which ismeant a clutch that resists relative movement between the two clutch members either in a forward or backward direction. During the formation of the edge stitches on the buttonhole the ring 73 is free from the cam 4L0 and the cam is, therefore, given its forward movement through the actuating device shown in Fig. 14. When the edge stitching on either side of the buttonhole is completed, then the ring 7 3 is automatically clutched to the cam 40 with the result that the cam will be given a forward movement through the actuating device shown in Fig. 15. The eccentricity of the eccentric 70 is much greater than that of the eccentric 66, and, therefore, the cam will be moved further at each forward step during the formation of the barring stitches than during the formation of the edge stitches.

The means for clutching the ring 73 to the cam comprises an expanding clutch member 87 which is situated inside of the ring and is rigidly secured to the cam 40 by means of the screw 88. This expanding clutch member 87 is in the form of a split band and the two free ends are connected by a toggle member 89 which when straightened expands the clutch member 87 thereby clutching it to the ring 7 3. The controller 78 is made in two parts and one of them has two cam members 90 thereon which are situated to be engaged by the toggle member 89 as the cam 40 rotates. These cams are so constructed that when the toggle member 89' is brought onto either cam, the latter will straighten the toggle sufiiciently to expand the clutch 87 thereby clutching the ring 7 3 to the cam 40.- The controller, it will be remembered, has an oscillatory movement and the cams 90, therefore, have a vibratory movement due to the oscillations of the controller. When the cam 40 has reached such a position in its rotative movement due to the operation of the clutch member that the toggle 89 is about to ride onto one of the cam members 90, then during the next backward oscillation of the controller 7 8, said cam will be carried under the toggle 89 thereby straightening the latter and clutching the ring 73 to the cam 40. This operation of clutching the ring 73 to the cam 40 will occur when the controller 78 is approximately at its back dead center.

It will be remembered that the ring 73 is fed forward at each forward movement of the controller 78 and hence as soon as the clutch87 has been. expanded, as above defed from the ring 7 3 which in turn is oper ated from the eccentric 70. This feeding movement of the main cam will be an intermittent movement, said cam moving forward oscillation of the controller and remaining stationary when the controller moves backwardly. Consequently at each backward movement of the controller the operative cam 90 will have a backward movement relative to the toggle 89. After the main cam 40 has been fed forward a predetermined distance through the operation of the ring 73, the toggle member 89 will pass off from the cam 90 thereby releasing the clutch 87 and unclutching the main cam from the ring 73. Owing to the oscillating movement of the controller this release of the cam member 90 from the toggle 89 will always occur at the forward dead center of the controller 78 and thus the main cam 40 will always be brought into a predetermined position at the time it is released from'the clutch ring 7 3. As soon as the cam is thus unclutched from theclutch ring 73, then it will derive its feeding movement from the clutchmember 60. The rotative movement which the main cam 40 derives from the clutch 60 is less rapid than that which it derives through the ring 7 3, and it is, therefore, important that the time of changing the feed of the main cam 40 from the ring 78 to the clutch member 60 should always occur when the main cam is in a predetermined position and at a time when the barring stitches on the buttonhole are completed, for otherwise there would result a disarrangement of the stitches.

The construction above provided results in positively bringing the main cam 40 to the predetermined position when the change in feed is efiected from the ring 73 to the clutch member 60.

T have shown the controller 78 as providedally secured tothe main cam 40. These pawls are so situated on the main cam that they I come into engagement with thenotches 91 just as the toggle 89 is about to pass onto the end of either cam member 90. The purpose of these pawls 92 is to ensure a positive engagement of the toggle member 89 with each cam member 90, thus making positive the start of the barring operation at the proper time.

The eccentric 70 is" made adjustable in a direction transverse to the axis of theshaft 10 thereby to vary the throw thereof. For

this purpose, it is providedon each side with two dove-tailed ribs 93 that slide in grooves extending diametrically of. two flanges 94 that arefast on the driving shaft 1t). The

eccentric is held in its adjusted position by means of a pin 96 which is adapted to be received in any one of a number of holes 97 formed in the flanges and eccentric, said pin being locked in position by means of a locking plate 98.

For varying the speed of the feeding movement during the formation of the edge stitches s I have provided a device somewhat similar to that shown in my above-mentioned patent by which the eccentricity of the eccen trio 66 may be changed. This eccentric 66 is mounted on the inclined portion 99 of a sleeve 100 which is slidably mounted on the shaft 10. This inclined portion 99 is non-circular in cross-section and is inclined relative to the axis of the shaft, as clearly seen in Fig. 9. The sleeve 100 can be shifted longitudinally of the shaft 10 and by such shifting movement will operate to move the eccentric 66 transversely of the shaft thereby to increase or decrease its eccentricity. This eccentric 66' is confined between two retaining members 101 which are secured to the bed plate by means of screws or bolts 102 and which prevent movement of the eccentric in a direction axially of the shaft. The sleeve 100-may be shift ed longitudinally of the shaft by any suitable means. I have herein shown for this purpose a shifting lever 103 pivoted to the bed plate at 10 1 and having a forked end 105 which embraces the grooved hub 106 of the sleeve, said fork having projections entering the groove. The end 107 of the lever 103 extends beyond the edge of the base frame and is thus accessible to the operator. This arrangement permits the rate of feed during the stitching to be varied while the machine is in operation and by the simple movement of shifting the lever 103.

The shaft 10 is driven from a driving pulley 108 which is loosely mounted thereon and which is adapted to be clutched thereto by a suitable clutch indicated generally at 109. While any clutch may be employed without departing from the invention, I prefer to use a clutch such as illustrated in my Patent No. 1,244,079, datedOctober 23, 1917. This clutch comprises an expanding clutch member which is expanded into clutching engagement with the pulley by the swinging of a clutch lever 110 to the left in Fig. 9. Said lever is given its operative movement by means of a disk 137 on aclutch-actuating sleeve 111 which is slidably mounted on the shaft 10 and which is acted upon by a spring 112 that tends normally to throw the clutch into engagement. This sleeve is connected at 1141 to a. clutch-actuating lever 113 which is pivoted to the bed frame at 115. This clutchactuating lever 113 is provided atlts end with a thumb-piece 116 that extends beyond the bed frame and by which the lever may be actuated to disengage the clutch. The clutch 18 shown disengaged in Fig. 3, while 1n Fig. 9

it is shown in operative position. When the clutch is disengaged the lever 113 is held in the position shown in Fig. 3 against the action of the spring 112 by means of a latch 117 which is adapted to enter a notch 118 formed in the thumb-piece 116 of said lever 113. This latch 117 is rigid with the starting lever 119 which is pivoted to the frame at 120 and which is acted upon by a spring 121 that normally tends to hold the latch in position to engage the notch 118. To start the machine, the starting lever 119 is depressed, this operation withdrawing the latch 117 from the notch 118 thereby freeing the clutch-actuating lever 113 so that the expanding action of the spring 112 will throw the clutch 109 into operation, thus causing the shaft 10 to be driven from the driving pulley 108.

Means are provided for automatically disconnecting the clutch at the end of the stitching on a buttonhole, said means being controlled by the main cam 40. The mechanism for thus disconnecting the clutch and bring ing the machine to rest at the end of each buttonholc is so constructed that the clutch 109 will be disengaged just before the last stitches on the buttonhole have been completed, and the driving shaft will be brought to rest when said last stitches are completed. As a result of this construct-ion, the machine will run by its own momentum while the last stitches on the buttonholc are being formed and between the time that the'clutch is disengaged and the driving shaft is brought to rest. The advantage of this is that the ma.- chine has a chance to slow down somewhat between the disengagement of the clutch and the final stopping of the shaft and, therefore, the strain on the stop motion which brings the shaft to rest is considerably less than if the machine was stopped from its full speed. This construction enables the machine to be driven at a higher rate of speed Without sub-.

jecting it to any severe strain in stopping it. This clutch-actuating lever 113 is provided with a roll or projection 122 which is received in a grove 123 formed in the main cam 40. The main portion of this groove is relatively Wide so as to allow free movement of the lever, but one wall of the groove is provided with the rise 124 thereby making a narrow portion 125 in the groove. The opposite end of this narrow portion is provided with two steps or

shoulders

126, 127 for a purpose presently to be described.

Slidably mounted in the bed plate 2 is a slide 128 to the end of which is pivoted a latch 129 which in one position is adapted to engage the clutch lever 113. This slide 128 is provided with a slot in which is received a pin 130 carried by the arm 38 that controls the barring mechanism. This pin is adapted to engage a spring 131 which is confined in a recess in the slide 128. The latch 117 carries an arm 132 which is pivoted thereto at 133 so as to swing laterally, said arm being acted upon by a suitable spring 134. When the clutch is disengaged and is locked in its disengaged position, as shown in Fig. 3, the latch 129 will be in engagement with the clutch lever 113, as shown in Fig. 10, and the arm 132 will be situated underneath the latch. lVhen the starting lever 119 is depressed to release the latch 117 from the clutch-actuating lever 113, the arm 132 will raise the latch 129 out of engagement with said lever, as shown in Fig. 11. This frees the lever 113 so as to allow the spring 112 to throw the clutch into engagement and thereby swing the lever 113 into the position shown in Fig. 20. i In this position the latch 117 is over one end of the thumb-piece 116, so that when the starting lever is released, said latch will drop onto and rest on the thumb-piece of the lever 113. The parts remain in this position during the stitching down the first side of the buttonhole, and when the end of the buttonhole is reached and the barring stitches Z) are being formed, the arm 38 will be moved to the right, Fig. 3, into the position shown in Fig. 20. Since this arm is connected to the slide 128 by means of a pin 130, such swinging movement of the arm 38 will move the slide to the right in Figs. 3 and 9, such movement being sutiicient to carry the latch 129 beyond the lever 113 so as to allow the latch to drop down into the position shown in Fig. 21. After the barring stitches on the first end of the buttonhole have been completed, then the stitching down the other side of the buttonhole is performed, and when the barring stitches at the other end of the buttonhole are being made, the arm 38 has a swinging movering stitches are being formed, the projection 122 on the lever 113 is occupying the narrow portion 125 of the cam groove 123 and the wall 135 of this portion of the cam groove will hold the lever 113 from swinging movement. Consequently, the swinging movementof the arm 38 to the left during the formation of the barring stitches at the completion of the buttonhole will operate to'compress the spring 131. By the time that the buttonhole has been completed with the exception of the last two or three stitches, the cam 40 has been advanced to such a point as to allow the roll 122 to drop ofi the shoulder 126, and as this occurs the expanding action of the compressed spring 131 will give the lever 113 a partial movement. Such partial movement is sufficient to disengage the clutch 109, thus allowing the machine to run free. The momentum of the machine is suliicient so that it will complete the last stitches on the.

131 is allowed to expand further, thus giving the lever 113 a further movement, such further movement being sufiicient to bring the stop motion into action thereby to bring the machine to rest.

Vhile any suitable stop motion may be employed, I prefer that herein illustrated and which comprises a stop projection 136 carried by the disk 137 and a co-operating stop dog 138 yieldingly carried by a stationary support 139. This stationary support 139 has a circular recess 140 therein in which is received a relatively heavy spring 141 and a relatively light spring 142, said springs being separated by a movable separator 143. The recess also receives a slide 144 carrying the stop dog 138 which projects through a slot in the support 139. The stop dog 138 is so positioned as to be out of the'path of movement of the stop projection 136 when the clutch is engaged, as shown in Fig. 9, and also when the clutch is partially disengaged, as shown in Fig. 26, but when the clutch is entirely disengaged, then the disk 137 is in such position that the stop dog 138 occupies the path of movement of the stop projection 136. Hence when the clutch is first disengaged by the roll 122 dropping off from the shoulder 126, the disk 137 is in its midway position and the stop mechanism is inaffective. As soon as the roll 122 drops oft from the shoulder 127, however, the disk will be moved by the spring 131 into the position so that the stop projection 136 will engage the stop dog 138. The momentum of the parts will cause the stop projection to move the stop dog, thus compressing first the lighter spring 142 until the latter is compressed to its limit as determined by the core 145, and then compressing the heavy spring 141 until the disk is brought to rest. A latch 147 serves to prevent any recoil.

From the above it will be noted that the main cam 40, not only controls the feeding movement of the work and the operation of the barring, but also controls the operation of stopping the machine at the completion of the buttonhole.

The machine herein shown includes a buttonhole cutter 150 which is similar to that shown in my above-mentioned patent in that it is supported by a holder 151 slidably mounted in the frame and connected by a link 152 to a rocking member 153 which is pivoted to the frame at 154, said rocking memher in turn having one member 155 of a toggle element pivotally connected thereto, the other element 156 of said toggle being pivoted to the frame at 157. The pivotal connection 158 between the two

members

156, 155 is connected to the arm 159 of an eccentric strap 160 that encircles and is operated byan eccentric 161 that is loosely mounted on the driving shaft 10.

Means are provided whereby when the machine is brought to rest, as above described, the eccentric 161 will be given one rotation thereby to operate the buttonhole cutter. The eccentric 161 is carried on a sleeve 162 that is loosely mounted on the shaft 10 and which is adapted to be clutched to a driving pulley 163 also loosely mounted on said shaft 10 by means of a suitable clutch 164:. This c utch is acted on by a spring 165 which normally tends to throw it into engagement and it is controlled by a clutch-controlling lever 166 pivoted to the frame at 167. During the operation of sewing on the buttonhole, this lever 166 is locked in its inoperative position with the clutch disengaged by means of a latch lever 168 pivoted to the frameat 169 and adapted to engage a shoulder 170 formed on the lever 166. This latch lever 168 is acted on by a spring 171 which normally tends to hold it in engagement with the shoulder 170. The end 17 2 of said latch lever is situated adjacent the end of the slide 128 and said slide has at its end a cam projection 173' which is adapted to engage an inclined face 174 formed on the end 172 of said lever 168. When the slide 128 is in its retracted position and the latch lever 168 is in its operative position shown in Fig. 20, the cam projection 173 is in line with the inclined face 174. This cam projection and inclined face are so related that when the slide has its final movement at the time that the roll 122 on the clutch-controlling lever 113 drops off from the shoulder 127, said cam projection 173 will engage the face 17 1 thereby swinging the latch lever 168 to disengage it from the shoulder 10. Hence as soon as the machine is brought to rest the clutch-controlling lever 166 is released so that the spring 165 will become operative to cause the clutch 164 to be engaged. This clutch will rotate the sleeve 162 thereby operating the buttonhole cutter. The clutch 164 is of the one-revolution type and willftherefore, be disengaged automatically when the sleeve has made one rotation. lVhile any suitable clutch may be employed, I will preferably use one similar to that shown in my Patent No. 1,244,079, dated October 23, 1917, and since there is no novelty in this clutch per se, I have not thought it necessary to illustrate it in detail.

17 5 indicates a take-up arm having the usual eye 176 through which the upper thread extends. This take-up arm is formed on an eccentric strap 177 which encircles an eccentric 178 fast on the shaft 1 1. This arm 175 has pivoted thereto one end of a link 179, the other end of which is pivoted to the frame at 180. The rotation of the eccentric and the connection between the take-up arm and the link 179 causes said take-up arm to have the movement indicated in Fig. 6. The crank arm 18 lies against the face of the eccentric 178 so that the take-up arm occupies very little room.

180 indicates a tension for the upper thread comprising the usual pair of tension friction disks between which the thread passes. This tension is carried by a bracket 181 supported from the frame and the tension is controlled by a spring 182. This spring rests against a head 183 on a vertically-movable plunger 184: which operates in a suitable bearing 185. The lower end of the plunger extends through the bed plate and rests on the cam 40, said cam having two depressions or grooves 186 therein which are adapted to pass under the plunger 18% during the rotation of the cam. When the grooves come under the plunger 184, the latter will move downwardly thereby releasing the tension on the spring 182 and thus relieving the tension on the thread. These grooves are so arranged as to produce a different tension on the thread when the barring stitches are being formed from that to which the thread is subjected when the edge stitches are being formed.

I claim:

1. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with an oscillatory needle bar carrier, of a needle bar reciprocably carried thereby, means to vibrate said carrier in timed relation with the reciprocation of the needle bar, and other means to give said carrier an intermittent unidirectional bodily movementin addition to and in the direction of its vibratory movement.

In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with a vibratory needle bar carrier, of a needle bar reeiproeably carried thereby, means to reciprocate the needle bar, means to vibrate said carrier in timed relation with the reciprocation of the needle bar, and means to give said carrier periodically an intermittent unidirectional bodily movement in addition to and in the direction of its vibratory movement.

3. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holding means, of a reciprocating needle bar, means to reciprocate it, means to produce a. relative feeding movement between the work-holding means and needle bar first in one direction and then in the other, means to give the needle bar a jogging movement transverse to the direction of feed, and other means independent of the last-named means and operative at each end of the feeding movement to give said needle bar an intermittent unidirectional bodily movement in addition to and in the same direction as its ogging movement.

4. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holding means, of a reciprocating needle bar, means to reciprocate it, means to produce a relative feeding movement between the work-holding means and needle bar first in one direction and then in the other, means to give the needle bar a jogging movement transverse to the direction of feed, and other means independent of the last-named means and operative at each end of the feeding movement to give said needle bar an intermittent unidirectional bodily movement in addition to and in the same direction as its jogging movement, the intermittent movement at one end of the feeding movement being in the opposite direction from that at theother end of said feeding movement.

5. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holding means, of stitchforming mechanism including a reciprocating needle bar, a needle bar carrier in which the needle bar reciprocates, means to: give the needle bar carrier a vibratory movement of fixed length to effect the formation of edge stitches, means to produce a relative feeding movement between the work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism as said edge stitches are formed, and means to give the needle bar carrier an intermittent unidirectional bodily movement periodically in addition to and in the same direction as its vibratory movement thereby to form barring stitches.

6. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with a reciprocating needle bar and means to reciprocate it. of a needle bar carrier, means to vibrate said carrier in timed relation with the reciprocation of the needle bar, and means to give said carrier periodically a bodily intermittent unidirectional movement during and in the direction of it vibratory movement.

7. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holding means, of stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle bar, a vibratory needle bar carrier in which the needle bar reciprocates,

means to vibrate said carrier, means to produce a relative feeding movement between the work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism for the production of the edge stitches on the buttonhole, other means to give said carrier an intermittent bodily movement during and in addition to its vibratory movement thereby to form barring stitches, said'feeding means operating to produce a slow relative feeding movement during the formation of the barring stitches. I

8. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of work-holdingmeans, a combined feeding and barring cam, means actuated thereby to give feeding movement to the work-holding means, other means actuated thereby to effect the forn'iation of barring stitches, and actuating means for said cam operating to give it a slow, intermittent movement while the work is being fed and a more rapid intermittent movement while the barring stitches are being formed.

9. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the ombination with stitch-forming mechanism, of work-holding means, a cam by which the operation of said work-holding means and member, means actuated by said shaft to give intermittent movement to said member, and

means operating periodically to clutch said member to the cam.

11. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with a bed plate, of stitch-forming mechanism, Work-holding means, a cam controlling the operation of said work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism, a driving shaft situated beneath the bed plate, cam-rotating means actuated by said shaft and including a driving member situated coaxially of the cam, means actuated by said shaft to give intermittent movement to the driving member, and means to clutch the driving member periodically to said cam.

12. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with worleholding means, of stitch-forming mechanism, means to actuate the latter to produce edge stitches on a buttonhole, a cam, means actuated thereby to produce a relative feeding movement between the work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism during the formation of the edge stitches, means also actuated thereby to cause the stitch-forming mechanism to produce barring stitches at the ends of the buttonhole, means for rotating said cam during the production ofthe edge stitches, a driving member, means operative continuously to give operative movement to the latter, and means to clutch the driving member to the cam during the formation of the barring stitches.

13. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holding means, oi stitchforming mechanism, means to actuate the latter to produce edge stitches on a buttonhole,a cam, means actuated thereby to produce a relative feeding movement between the work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism during the formation of the edge stitches, means also actuated thereby to cause the stitch-forming mechanism to produce barring stitches at the ends of the buttonhole, means forrotating said cam during the production of the edge stitches, a driving member, means operative continuously to give operative movement to the latter intermittently, and means to clutch the driving member to the cam during the formation of the barring stitches.

14. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of workholding means, a rotary cam for controlling the operation of these parts, a ring situated coaxially with said cam, means for rotating said ring, and means operative periodically to clutch the ring to the cam whereby the cam is rotated by the ring.-

15. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of workholding means, a rotary cam for controlling the operation of these parts, a ring situated coaxially with said cam, means for rotating said ring, means operative periodically to clutch the ring to the cam whereby the cam is rotated by the ring, and other means to rotate said cam while the ring is unelutched therefrom.

16. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of Workholding means, a rotary cam for controlling the operation of these parts, a ring situated co-axially with said cam, means for giving said ring an intermittent rotative movement, means operative periodically to clutch the ring to the cam whereby the cam is rotated through the ring, and other means to rotate the cam intermittently while the ring is unclutched therefrom.

17. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holding means, of stitch-forming mechanism, a cam, means 0perated thereby to produce a relative feeding movement during the formation of the edge stitches on the buttonhole and to cause the stitch-forming mechanism to produce barring stitches at the ends of the buttonhole, a ring situated co-axially with said cam, an oscillatory controlling member, means to oscillate the same, means to clutch the controlling member to the ring during its movement in one direction and to release it from'the ring during its movement in the opposite direc tion whereby the ring is rotated intermittently, and means operative periodically to clutch the ring to the cam.

' 18. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holding means, of stitch-forming mechanism, a cam, means operated thereby to produce a relative feeding movement during the formation of the edge stitches on the buttonhole and to cause the stitch-forming mechanism to produce barring stitches at the ends of the buttonhole, a ring situated co-axially with said cam, an oscillatory controlling member, means to oscillate the same, means to clutch the controlling member to the ring during its movement in one direction and to release it from the ring during its movement in the opposite direction whereby the ring is rotated intermittently, and means actuated by the controller to clutch the ring periodically to the cam,

19. In a button hole sewing machine, the combination with work-holding means, of

stitch-forming mechanism, a cam, means operated thereby to produce a relative feeding movement during the formation of the edge stitches on the buttonhole and to cause the stitch-forming mechanism to produce barring stitches at the ends of the buttonhole, a ring situated co-axially with said cam, an oscillatory controlling member, means to oscillate the same, means to clutch the controlling member to the ring during its movement in one direction and to release it from the ring during its movement in the opposite direction whereby the ring is rotated intermittently, means operative periodically to clutch the ring to the cam, and other means to rotate said cam intermittently when the ring is unclutched from the cam.

20. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holding means, of stitch-forming mechanism, a cam, means operated thereby to produce a relative feeding movement during the formation of the edge stitches on the buttonhole and to cause the stitch-forming mechanism to produce barring stitches at the ends of the buttonhole, a ring situated co-axially with said cam, an oscillatory controlling member, means to oscillate the same, means to clutch the controlling member to the ring during its movement in one direction and to-release it from the ring during its movement in the opposite direction whereby the ring is rotated intermittently, means actuated by the controller to clutch the ring periodically to the cam, and other means to rotate said cam intermittently when the ring is unclutched from the cam.

21. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of a driving element, a clutch for operatively connecting said driving element to the stitchforming mechanism, buttonhole-cutting mechanism, a clutch for actuating the buttonhole-cutting mechanism, a lock to hold said clutch disengaged, a clutch-releasing spring for releasing the first-mentioned clutch, means operativeduring the stitching on a buttonhole to store up energy in said spring, means to release said spring to permit it to function upon the completion of the stitchingon a buttonhole, and means actuated by the clutch-disengaging movement of the spring to release said lock thereby to render the buttonhole-cutting mechanism operative.

22. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of a driving element, a clutch for operatively connecting the driving element to the stitch-forming mechanism, a clutch releasing spring, means operative during the stitching on a buttonhole to store up energy in said spring, means to release the spring to permit it to function upon the completion of a but tonhole, buttonhole-cutting mechanism, and

means to render said buttonhole-cutting mechanism operative by the clutch-releasing action of said clutch-releasing spring.

23. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of a driving element, a clutch for operatively connecting the driving element to the stitchforming mechanism, a spring tothrow the clutch into operation, a clutch-releasing spring capable of releasing the clutch against the action of the first-named spring, means operative during the stitching on a buttonhole to store up energy in the clutch-releasing spring, means to release said spring and permit it to function upon the completion of a buttonhole, buttonhole-cutting mechanism, and means to render said buttonhole cutting mechanism operative by the clutch-releasing action of said clutch-releasing spring.

24. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of a driving element, a clutch for operatively connecting said driving element to the stitchforming mechanism, barring mechanism, a clutch-releasing spring, means actuated by the barring mechanism to store up energy in said spring, means to permit said spring to function upon the com letion of a buttonhole, buttonhole-cutting mechanism, and means to render the sameoperative by the clutch-releasing movement of said sprin 25. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of a driving element, a clutch for operatively connecting said driving element to the stitchforming mechanism, barring mechanism, a clutch-releasing spring, means actuated by the barring mechanism to store up energy in said spring, means to permit said spring to function upon the completion of a buttonhole, buttonhole-cutting mechanism, a latch normally holding said mechanism inoperative, and means to release the latch by the clutch-releasing movement of said spring.

26, ln-apsewing machine, the combination with a needle-bar carrier, of means to vibrate said carrier, and means to give the carrier a bodily movement in addition to its vibrating movement, said means comprising a rockshaft, an arm loosely mounted thereon, connections between said arm and said carrier, an oscillating intermediate member connected to both the shaft and the arm and constructed to transmit the oscillation of the shaft to the arm, and a cam for oscillating the shaft.

27. In a sewing machine, the combination with a needle-bar carrier, of means to vibrate said carrier, and means to give said carrier a bodily movement in addition to its vibrating movement, said means comprising a rock shaft having a recess, an arm loosely mounted thereon, connections between said arm and carrier, an oscillating intermediate member having a tooth operating in said recess, connections between said oscillating member and said arm, and a cam for oscillating the rock shaft. i

28. In a sewing machine, the combination with a needlebar carrier, of means to vibrate said carrier, a toggle device connected to said carrier, a slotted vibrating arm, a link having one end connected to said toggle device and the other operating in the slot of the arm, an adjusting screw carried by said arm and by which the link is adjustedlongitudinally of the slot, and means to swing said arm thereby to move the needle carrier bodily.

29. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with wort-holding means, of stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle with a vibratory needle bar carrier, means to vibrate said carrier for the formation of the edge stitches on the buttonhole, means to produce a relative feeding movement between the work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism during the production of the edge stitches on a buttonhole, and means separate from the abovenamed carrier-vibrating means to give said carrier an intermittent bodily movement in addition to and in the direction of its vibrating movement to produce barring stitches at the ends of the buttonhole, said feeding means operating to produce a slow relative feeding movement during the formation of the barring stitches.

30. In a sewing machine, the combination with a cam by which the operation of the machine is controlled, of oscillatory feeding means to give said cam an intermittent feeding movement and to positively bring said cam to rest at the end of each forward step.

31. In a sewing machine, the con'ibination with a cam by which the operation of the machine is controlled, of oscillatory feeding means to give said cam an intermittent feeding movement and to positively bring said cam to rest at the end of each forward step, and means to cause said feeding means to become operative when the cam is in one predetermined position and to become inoperative when the cam has reached another predetermined position.

32. The combination with a controlling cam, of oscillatory feeding means to give said cam an intermittent feeding movement and to positively bring said cam to rest atthe end of each forward step. I

The combination with a controlling cam, of oscillatory feeding means to give said cam an intermittent feeding movement and to positively bring said cam to rest at the end of each forward step, and means to cause said feeding means to become operative'when the cams is in one predetermined position and to become inoperative when the cam reaches another predetermined position.

34. In a buttonhole sewing machine conlLZO