US1662917A - Mokris caspx - Google Patents

Description

March 20, 1928.

M. CASPLER METHOD OF MAKING SLIPPERS Filed Sept. 28, 1927 Patented Mar. 2@, i928.

MORRIS CASPLER, OF SOUTH NORWALK, CONNEGTEC'UT.

METHOD OF MAKING- SLIPPERS.

Application filed September 28, 1927. Serial No. 222,474.

' This invention relates to the art of making shoes and more particularly to light weight turned shoes or slippers, and has for an object to provide an improved method of attaching the upper or vamp to the sole which does not require a last during the sewing operation, and therefore, does not require the'use of a special sewing machine for this operation; and in which the sewing operation is performed by stitching from the sole to the upper, and therefore, the line of stitching on the sole is always clearly visible to the operator and he may, therefore, easily place it in the exact proper position on the sole, and it is not necessary that the upper or the lining be accurately trimmed to the edge of thesole prior to the stitching operation. Thus the amount of equipment required is greatly reduced which reduces the cost of making the shoe or slipper.

With the foregoing and other objects in' view, I have devised the improved method the steps of which are illustrated in the accompanying drawing forming a part of this specification. In this drawing,

Fig.1 is a top plan view of a sole showing how it is channeled on its upper side to produce a lip to which the upper is stitched.

Fig. 2 is a transverse section substantially on line 2'2 of Fig. 1 but on a somewhat larger scale.

Fig. 3 is a top plan view of the front of the toe portion of the sole showing the edge of the sole folded over prior to the stitching operation.

Fig. 4 is a transverse section through one edge of the sole and the upper showing how the stitching operation is performed.

Fig. 5 is a top plan view of the toe portion of the completed slipper, and

Fig. 6 is a transverse section thereof sub-' stantially on line 6-6 of Fig. 5.

In carrying out my process the sole 9 is first out substantially to shape and then the top side thereof, which is the inner side of the finished sole, is channeled by cutting outwardly from a suitable distance inwardly of the edge of the sole toward this free edge of the sole, as indicated at 10, to form a lip 11 which, of course, is free from the sole at its inner edge but at its outer edge is integrally connected to the sole at the desired distance from the edge, leaving the edge 12 of the sole of the full thickness of the sole. This edge is then folded back tit? the lip 11 extending outwardly about the periphery of the sole and substantially in the plane thereof. At the short curves, such as at the end of the toe and heel, the lip may be cut, as shown at 13, so that it may lie in this horizontal position.

fter the free edge of the sole has been folded and hammered down to this position the upper or vamp 14 and the lining 15 are stitched to the under side of the lip 11, as shown in Fig. 4, stood that the finished side of the upper is toward the solo in this position and the lining is under the upper so as to bring them to the proper position after the shoe is turned. It will be obvious from an inspection of Fig. 4 that during the stitching operation the elements lie substantially flat in a horizontal plane and that the stitching is done from the sole to the upper and lining, that'is, the sole is on top during the stitching operation where the line of stitches 16 in this sole is always clearly visible to the operator, and he may, therefore, always place this line of stitching close up to the attached edge of the lip which is the most desirable position. Also with this method the stitching may be done on an ordinary sewing machine using a straight needle 17 if desired, and it is not necessary to place the shoe on a last before sewing. It is, however, preferred that the stitching be done with an inclined needle, as indicated at 18, so that the lower portion of the stitching will extend out further toward the edge of the sole as this places the line of stitches closer to the edge of the sole and holds the lower edge of the upper closely down against the top of the sole and sews it out close to the edge of the sole, giving a much better appearance and fastening the upper at the most advantageous position. It. will, therefore, be seen that with this method no special machine is needed for the sewing operation, and as the stitching is done from the sole to the upper it is not necessary to have the upper or the lining trimmed exactly to the edge of the sole, as even though they do extend over the edge of the sole, as shown in Fig. 4, they do not interfere with the stitching operation it being, of course, under- 1 as the sole is always on top, and therefore,

the position of the line of stitches is alwa s clearly visible. It is often desirable that t e lining be extended inwardly a distance fromthe edge of the sole.

After the stitching operation is completed the shoe is turned to bring the edges 12 of the sole back into the plane of the sole, as shown in Fig. 6, and then the shoe is placed on a last and shaped to fit this last. The sole may be trimmed off to the proper relation with the edge of the upper to give a neat and attractive appearance, and it will be clear the upper is stitched to the sole without any stitches appearing on the bottom thereof and these stitches do not extend sufficiently close to the bottom as to be worn off with a comparatively small wear on the sole.

A particular advantage of my method is that no last is needed for support during the stitching operation, the last being used merely to shape after the shoe is stitched and turned. It is, therefore, not necessary to have a large stock of lasts as where the shoe is supported on a last during stitching nor are the stitchers held up by a shortage of lasts. Any amount of the slippers may be stitched and then lasted as desired. This greatly reduces the cost of manufacture as does also the fact that it is not necessary to buy expensive special sewing machines.

Having thus set forth the nature of my invention, what I claim is: p

1. The method of making a turned slipper which comprises channelling the top side of a sole to produce a lip by cutting toward the edge of the sole, turning over the edge of the sole outside the lip onto the under side of the sole and hammering it down so that the lip lies substantially in the plane of the margln of the sole and extends outwardly therefrom, then sewing the upper or vamp to the under side of the outwardly extending lip, and then turning the slipper.

2. he method of making a turned slipper which comprises cutting a channel about the periphery of the solo from the inside outwardly toward the edge of the sole to produce a lip, folding over the edge outwardly of the lip onto the under side of the sole so that the lip will extend outwardly therefrom, sewing the upper to the under side of the sole, and then turnin the slipper.

3. The method of ma ing a turned slipper which comprises cutting a channel in the top of the sole from a position inwardly of the edge of the sole and outwardly toward this edge to form a lip, folding over the edge outside the lip to the under side of the sole so the lip will extend outwardly, and sewing an upper to the lip by sewing from the sole to the upper.

4. The method of making a turned slipper which comprises cutting .a channel in the top of the sole about its periphery from a line inwardly of the edge of the sole and outwardly toward this ed e to form a lip integral with the sole, fol ing over the edge of the sole outside the lip. onto the under side of the sole, sewing the upper to the under side of the lip by a line of stitches close to the connection of the lip to the body of the sole and inclined outwardly toward the free edge of the sole, and turning the, slipper and then lasting to shape.

Intestimony whereof I aifix my signature.

MORRIS GASPLER.

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