US1660763A - Last for pump shoes - Google Patents

Description

Feb. 28, 1928. 1,660,763

.vi PARKER ms"? FOR PUMP SHOES Filed'March 23. 1926 XIX/2% a INVENTORQ MALCOLM W PARKER- Patented Feb. 28,1928.

UNITED STATES MALCOLM WILLIAMr KEE oF EAST MALVERN, mada es-min a PATEN oF icEf.

-LAST FORIBUMP SHOES.

Application filed March 23, 1926, Serial No.'9 $,734,yand in Australia May 1 1,fi92:5'.; U

My invention relates to improvements in lasts for the. manufacture of pump shoes (which are also known as turn shoes) which are more particularly in use as footwear for 5 women, and the object of my: improvements is to provide means for obtaining the desired shapes of shoes without undue. straining or distortion of the material so as to minimize the percentageof rejects and in-' crease the ease ofre-lasting during manufacture and so as to facilitate the designing of the upper. T attain this object by the means illustrated drawings in which, I

Figure '1. is a diagrammatic elevation of the last used in the first lasting of the shoe, according to my invention, the shape of the normal last being shown in dotted lines and the allowance whichjwould be made for the sole if there were no contra allowance for i the shank being shown in chain lines.

Figure 2 is an enlarged cross-section on the line 22 of Figure 1, showing in dotted lines the positions of the turned shoe and of the last used in the secondlasting process.

Figure 3 is a fragmentary cross-sectional view, still further enlarged, showing the relative positions of the sole, upper and last during the second lasting process.

In the manufacture of a shoe, the normal practice is followed of first channeling the sole 16 on the inside so as to form a shoulder 20 and an inside channel 21. The'solelG is then placed with its outer side resting on the last 17 and the upper 18 is then drawn secured to the inner face of the sole by tacks 19. The stifiener (or heel support), toe (or toe support) and the lining are also positioned temporarily by the same side in relation to the last. The shoe is then sewn, the temporary tacks removed, and the surplus materials trimmed off. It

shank (or waist support), is pulled on to the last 23. The toe, stiffener and 'shank are formed generally of sole leather or of a synthetic preparation.

When the shoe is first lasted inside out, the stiflener, toe and lining are on the outside of the shoe, and when turned and the shank inserted the stiffener, toe, lining and shank will be on the inside. According to previous practice the lasts 17 and 23 were the same size and shape with the ex- 7 in the accompanying over the last and its edges are temporarily means, as is well known, being on the out is next turned and, after insertion of thecept ion that the last 17 used inlasting might be made larger'thanthe last 23by an amount equivalent to the shank, v

or distorted by displacement during the second lasting by an amount equal tofthe spaces occupied by the .stiifener, toe and lining. On the other hand, Ihave realized] that, as the upper 18 during the firstlasting is secured to; the side of the sole 16 which is further from the last 17, the space between the upper 18 andthe sole 1 6 .whenEthe shoe is turned willjbe larger than the-last 17. i

According to my invention, the normal last 23 shew n in dotted line in Figures 1 and 2" is used in the'second lasting while the last 17 used in the first lasting is shaped as shewn in full lines in Figure 1. In this 'figure the space 1, 2, '3, irepresents 'verti ,cally the deduction which I make from the first-lasting last in order to allow for the subsequent out-turning of ,the sole. The

space 1, 5, 6, 7 represents vertically theenopposite allowance 9, 13, 3, 4 forthe outturning of the corresponding portion of the sole, leaving adifierential space '13, 12, 11,

The:

3 representing theamount byv which such last must be enlarged at this part.

enlargement 14, 11,15 provides for the sub it is not usually necessary to make allows ance for the subsequent in-turning of the lining, this feature is not illustrated.

sequent in-turning of the stiffener. As;

The

allowance for the toeis not usually so important asthatfor the stiffener.

This invention, accordingly, results in the production of stronger footwear of this type, with a much smaller percentage of rejects, andwith greater ease of re-lasting during manufacture. 'Further, the invention facili tates the designing ofthe upper, becausethe I form taken off this firstlastinglast is. true to the final shape on account of such provision for the thickness of the stiffener. and

, other parts above mentioned; It is obvious that, accordingto this methoththe first-lasting last is usually an exact reproduction of r the normal last, (Whichin this method is not used until the second lasting) with a reduction which makes allowance for the sole and v enlargements which make allowance for the other parts abovementioned. Theenlargements Will. norma1ly be integral With the ment thereon at a position corresponding to 7 2. Means for the first lasting of pump shoes, comprising a last having enlargements thereon at'positions corresponding to the stiffener and toe of. the: shoe incombination With a reduction corresponding to the position of the fore part of the sole of the shoe, substantially as descri'bed.

In testimony whereof I aflix my signature.

: M LC LM W. PARKER;

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