US1525287A - Vest construction - Google Patents

Description

Feb. 3. 1925.

1,525,287 H. J. GEMIGNANI VEST CONSTRUCTION Filed Dec. 19, 1923 15 Sheets-Sheet l Feb. 3. 1925.

1 H. J. GEMIGNANI VEST CONSTRUCTION Filed Dec. 19, 1923 3 SheetsSheet 2 mid I I I Feb. 3. 1925.

H. J. GEMIGNANI VEST CONSTRUCTION Filed Dec. 19, 1925 15 Sheets-Sheet 5 .l -llllllll Patented Feb. 3, 1925.

UNITED STATES HUGO JoHN GEMIGNANI, F BALTIMORE, MARYLAND.

VEST CONSTRUCTION.

Application filed December 19, 1923. Serial No. 681,500.

To all whom it may concem: V

Be it known that I, HUGO JOHN GEMIG- NANI, a citizen of the United States, residing the vest;

at Baltimore, State of Maryland, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Vest Constructions, of which the following is a description, reference being had to the accompanying drawing, and to the figures of reference marked thereon.

This invention relates to vests, and more particularly to skeleton-lined vests.

One object of the invention resides in providing a vest in which all raw edges are eliminated.

Another object of this invention resides in constructing a skeleton-lined vest which can be sewed entirely by machine in the -minimum of time and operation, thereby reducing the cost of production.

One of the several features of the invention comprises a facing for the vest'front having a curved free edge substantially opposite the point of the vest, of novel design, which permits the edge thereof to be continuously piped and makes possible envelop-= ing the front edge seam between the facing and the wigan.

Still another object of the invention resides in arranging the front, the facing and the wi an, so that all free edges are' concealed y a novel arrangement of stitching and piping.

Another feature resides in a construction wherein the facing around the neck is used in place of the usual yoke.

Still another feature resides in a new design of side seam extension equal on front and back to permit the facile alteration of the garment and yet preserving the finished appearance of this seam.

Yet another feature consists in the man ner of piping the arm-hole, side seam and lower back seam inone single operation.

A further feature lies in the construction of the side scam, the arm-holes and bottom seam, which makes alteration of size simple and easy.

These and other features not hereinbefore specifically enumerated will" be apparent from a perusal of the following specification when considered in connectionwith the accompanying drawings, wherein-- Figure 1 is a side view of the outside of Fig. 2 is a view of the inside or facing side of the vest;

Fig. 3 is a section on the line 3-3 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a section on the line 4-4 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 5 is a view of a modified form of construction of the neck portion of the vest;

Fig. 6 is a section on the line 6-6 of Fig. 5;

'ig. 7 is a section onthe line 77 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 8 is a similar section showing the vest let out at the side seam;

Fig. 9 is a perspective view. of the manner in which the piping of the side seam and -base seam is, continuous;

Fig. 10 is a detailed view of the inner side of the neck portion of the Vest, and

Figures 11, 12, 13.and 14 are successive views showing the manner in which the continuous piping for theside seam and fold for the lower edge of the vest back is folded at the base of the side seam.

Referring now to the drawings in detail, the vest comprises the front cloth portion 1 provided with the usual pockets 2 and buttons 3. 'In the form illustrated in Fig. 1, the front cloth portion terminates at the side seam 4 beneath the arm-hole 5 and at the shoulder seam 6. The back 7 which is -made of silk or other desirable material,

joins the front cloth portion 1 at these scams 4 and 6.

The main featuresof the present invention are concerned chiefly with the construc-' tion of the inside of the vest, and especially with the manner in which the seams are arranged and finished. In the present instance, the front cloth port-ion 1 is provided with a substantially narrow inner facing 8. As illustrated clearly in Fig. 4, the front edges of the front 1 and facing 8 are turned in as at 10 and "a wigan 11 is stitched in place with these turned-in edges by the stitching 9. The wigan 11 thus forms an inner facing for the inside of the facing 8 and the outer edges of this facing 8 and wigan are covered by the piping 12 which i inside seam between the facing 8 and the wigan 11 is covered, the inside seam between the front 1 and thewigan 11 is covered, and the seam 13 between the facing 8 and wigan 11 is covered by the piping 12. This cloth facing 8 extends from the base of the vest at the seam 14 upwardly along the front tion 7. The upper portion of this side seam edge of the vest as at 16, then across the back of the neck as at 17, and down the other side of the vest to the other side seam as in Fig. 9. Preferably this facin is in a plurality of pieces as indicated %oy the piece lines 18, 19 and 20.

Particular attention is drawn to the curvilinear formation of the facing, at the point denotedby arrow 21., I-Ieretofore, it has been the custom to cut this corner substantially squarely, due to piecing the front to the bottom facing, and, because of this,-it has been "impossible to pipe the seam in a continuous machine stitching operation. In

the present construction, this corner is cut on a gradually changing curve so that the machine presser foot can easily and quickly make the turn. This permits continuous piping at this point.

The back 7 is preferably made of two pieces stitched together along the middle seam 21, which seam is somewhat set back from the edges of these back sections so that there is some room for letting out this seam. These edges are covered by piping 22 terminating as shown in dotted lines at 23 and 24 at the bottom and top, respectively. The back 7 is stitched to the front cloth portion 1 along the seam line extending from the shoulder line 24 around the arm-hole and thence down the side seam 25. r

Particular attention is drawn to the man nor of constructing this side seam 25. As shown in Fig. 7, the cloth portions 1 .and the back portion 7 are stitched as at 25 and then are provided with extensions 26 and 27, preferably of equal width, which are I in turn covered by piping 28 stitched as at 29.

By means of this constructionfby rippingthe seam 25, the same can be let out as shown in Fig. 8, or taken in without ripping a single stitch. Attention is called to the fact that the piping covers the rough-edges of the front vest portion 1 and the back porterminates at the arm-hole 5, where it is covered by a fold 30 of the back 7 which forms one-half of the arm-hole opening. That is,

the half portion of the arm-hole formed by the back 7 is folded back on itself and the raw edge is piped'as at 28, the stitching 32' for the piplng serving to stitch. the fold down and also stitch the piping tothe folded back edge of the back 7. The lower forward edge 33 of the arm-hole portion of the back 7 covers one end of the pipi g 28. The line of stitching 32 which stitches down the fold 3'0 terminates at approximately the arrow 34 at the lower portion of the arm-hole, and the preferably separate stitching for the pip-ing alone continues to the lower forward edge 30 of the portion 33. In other words, the stitching 32 .does not pass through the folded edge of the piped ex- 30 of the arm-hole, so that by merely pull' ing down on the upper portion of the piped extension, the same may be pulled from under the lower arm-hole fold 30, and is freely accessible for letting out the extension side seam 25.

A very important feature of the invention relates to the novel construction of the junction of the back 7 and front 1 at the upper and lowermost sectionsof the side seam 25, and to the method of cutting and arranging these parts so that the raw edges of the side seam may be covered byv piping extending continuously about the arm-hole, down the side seam, and across the base of the vest and particularly to the arrangement which permits the folding. of this continuous strip of piping at the upper and lower portions' of the side seam and the covering of this folded piping so that the vest presents a finished appearance at these points.

With reference to this feature of the invention, particular attention is drawn to Figures 11 to 14, inclusive, wherein the construction of the lower portion of the vest at the base of the side seam is illustrated and the method of piping and folding the side seam and back base fold is clearly eluci dated by successive views of the operation. In order to permit continuous piping at this section, the back 7 is cut on a curve as at the point denoted by the arrow 50. This permits continuous machine stitching and an uninterrupted stretch of piping 28 extending along the free rough edges of the side seam 25 and along the free rough edge of the base fold 35 of the lower portion of the b ack 7. After the side seam and base 35 is now turned upwardly as viewed in Fig.

1-2; is folded over the facing 8 and is stitched along line 51 which thus forms a continuation of the side seam 25. The back 7 and front 1 are now laid out fiat as shown in Fig. 13, and the fold 35 is at the same time pulled to the right and the fold 35 is folded along the line 52 and permanently stitched alon the-line 36 as shown in Figures 2 and 14. articular attention is called to the fact that this stitching terminates at the point 38. This permits the piping 28 beneath this fold 35 to be pulled out and also gives free access to the lower portion of the side seam extension for purposes of alteration. Q

In Fig. 14, the fold 35 is shown slightly below the'upper line of. piping 12 at the left, merely to illustrate how the fold 35' covers this unfinished portion. In actua eonstruction, the fold 35 is arranged, so tha the piping 23 is on a line'with piping 12 .and covers the cut 'end of piping 12 and facing 8.

In a manner similar to that just described the junction ofthe back 7 and front let the lower arm-hole is also arranged to permit continuous machine stitching of the piping 28 up the side seam 25 and around the arm-hole, in the present instance, in a counter clockwise direction; To this end, the upper end of the side seam immediately under the armhole is rounded just as is the portion and folded beneath the portion 33 of arm-hole fold 30. The stitch for this fold terminates at arrow 34 to permit the piping 28 and the upper end of the side seam tobe freely pulled out and exposed for alteration.

By means of this arrangement, it.wlll be observed that a continuous line of piping 28 extends from the point 39 indicated by the arrow in Fig. 2, as immediately under the arm-hole 5, around the arm-hole in an anti-clockwise direction as illustrated, to

the other side of the lower portion of the arm-hole opposite point39, where the piping is folded under the overlap 33 in the same manner as describedwith relation to the overlap 40 of Figures 2, 12 and 13, andthence continues downwardly along'the side again folded in the same manner as shown at the point 40 of Fig. 2, and thence continues upwardly all as indicated in Fig. 9, which figure shows the left-hand side of the vest, and continuing upwardly the piping 28 runs along the opposite side seam to i the opposite arm-hole 5 where it folds again as described at the point 39 in Fig. 2, thence around the arm-hole and back to the other side of the arm-hole, where the.piping'28 again finally terminates. Thus it will be seen that a continuous line of piping extends from one point beneath one arm-hole, around the arm-hole, down the side seam, along the back fold, across the base of the vest back, up the other side seam, and around the other arm-hole where 'it terminates. .It is further evident that the piping 22 along the back seam folds under and is covered by fold 35. Furthermore, that the end of the facing Sis also covered by the fold 35 of the back 7 at the folded-over end of fold v35 as indicated in Figures 2 and 9. In all of these instances, the. raw edges are very skillfully concealed by piping or folding in such a manner as will permit the facile letting out or alteration of the garment.

The shoulder seam 24 between the upper portion of theafront 1 and back 7 is an have the front of the vest continuous across the neck, the construction illustrated in Figures 5, 6 and' 10 is adopted. In this design, the front 42 of the' vest is provided with a neck extension 43 which extends across the back of the neck in a narrow strip which is sewed substantially at the center,

back, seam as at 44 to join a similar extension 43 of the other front section of the vest. In order to hide the raw edges of the. junction between the back 7 and this facing extension 43 and 43, the upper neck portion of the back 7 is provided with an infold as at 47 and the extensions 43 and 43 are stitched to it at the upper seam 48 and I the lower rough edges of the infold 47 and the extension 43 are then covered by piping 50. which extends across the upper shoulder seam of one arm-hole to the upper shoulder seam of the other arm-hole. The facing extension 43 is turned inwardly as eat 51 and is sewed to a correspondingly inwardly turned portion 52 of facing 45 by a line of stitching 46. The facing-45 which extends across the back is widened as at 46' as shown in dotted lines in Fig. 5, and this widened portion depends downwardly and covers the piped seam 50. This facing 45 is constructed in a manner similar to the facing shown in Fig. 2, that is, it extends entirely across the back of the vest and is piped by a line of piping 12' which corresponds to the line ofpiping 12 shown inFig. 2.

I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters-Patent, is-

'1. In a skeleton-lined vest, the combination of a cloth front section, asubstantially narrow facing therefor, said front and facmg having their respective outer edges turned in,- a wigan disposed between said 2. In a skeleton-linedv'est, the. combina-- tion of the two cloth fronts and back section, a substantially narrow facing co-extensive with the border line of said front and extending entirely across the neck of the back section, a piping for the exposed edge of said facing, said piping extending substantially parallel" to the border line of the vest Without break from one end of said facing to the other end thereof.

3. In a skeleton lined vest, the combination of the two cloth front sections and back folded together at the side seamsbel'ow the armholes, a line of stitching along said folded. portions, said stitching being spaced from the free edges of said folded portions to provide an overlap,- said back being inwardly folded at thelower edge thereof, and acontinuous strip of piping covering the exposed edges of said armholes, said overlap and lower backinfolded portion.

4. In a skeleton-lined vest, the combination of the two cloth front sections and back, sewed together at the side seams, said front .and back sections being inwardly folded at the arm-holes, and said back being inwardly folded at the lower edge thereof, and a continuous strip of piping sewed to and covering the exposed edges, said piping beginning at and I extendlng around one arm hole, thence downwardly along one side seam,

across said back lower fold, up the opposite side seam, and around the other arm-hole.

5. In a skeleton-lined vest, the combination of a front cloth section and a back section, said sections beingsewed together at the side scam, the free edges of the cloth of each section extending beyond said side seam, and a piping covering said free edges said piping being attached thereto by a stitching passing through both free edges and said piping.

' 6. 'In a skeleton-lined vest, the combination of a front cloth section and a back sec- I tion stitched together at the side seam; said sections being inwardly folded at me armhole, a substantially narrow facing for said front section, said back section having an inturned basal fold, piping covering the exposed edge of said facing, and a continuous strip of piping covering the exposed edges of said basal fold, side seam and arm-hole, said continuous strip being folded at the junction of said. side seam with said basal fold and arm-hole fold and covered thereby. 7. In a skeleton-lined vest, the combination of front cloth and back sections sewed together at the side seam and infolded around the arm-hole, a continuous strip of piping covering exposed edges thereof, said piping extending aroundThe arm-hole and along the side seam, said piping at the junction of the side seam and arm-hole being folded under the arm-hole fold.

8. In a skeleton-lined vest, the combination of front cloth and back sections sewed together at the side seam and infolded around the arm-hole, the-free edges of said side seam e xtending therebeyond, a continuous strip of stitched piping covering the exposed edges of said front and back sections along said side seam and arm-hole, said piping being folded under the infold at the junction of said side seam and arm-hole, the stitching at said junction being arranged to permit the upper edge of said free edge side seam extension to be pulled from under the fold, a continuous strip of piping stitched to and covering the free edges of said basal fold and side seam extension, said piping being folded' at the junction of said basal fold and side seam and covered by said basal fold.

10. In a skeleton-lined vest, the c-oinbina- 7,

tion of front and back sections sewed together at the side seam and having their free edges extending beyond said side seam, a substantially narrow facing for said front,

the basal portion of said back having an infold, a. continuous strip ofpipin stitched to and covering the free edge 0 said basal fold and side seam extension, said piping' being folded at the junction of said basal fold and side seam and covered by said basal fold, the stitching permitting said piping (fold to be freely pulled from under said basal fold to expose the lower edge of said side seam extension whereby to facilitate alteration thereof.

11. In a skelton lined vest, the combination of cloth front sections, a rear section, substantially narrow facings for said front sections extending continuously along the front and bottom edges thereof, the free edge of saidfacing being cut on a gradual curve substantially opposite the point of the vest, and a continuous piping extending from the rear of one front section along the free edge of the facing and around the gradual curve, and continuing across the atop of the rear section and along thefree edge of the facing and gradual curve of the other front section, whereby said piping may be applied by machine in a continuous strip.

12. In a skeleton-lined vest, the combination of twofront cloth sections and a back section, a substantially narrow cloth facing for said front sections, said facing extending entirely across, the top of said 'back, the

free edge of said back topand facing portion extending thereacross being turned in and stitched together, said facing being of substantial width across the top? of said tion of two front clothse'ctions having portions extending across the top of the back,

a back section sewed to said front sections and front extensions, the exposed edges of said back and extensions being turned in and stitched through piping covering said edges, and a facing for said front sections extending entirely across the top of said back, the exposed edges of said front extensions and facing extensions being turned in and stitched at the top of the vest back, said facing extension being of sufficient width across the top of the back to cover the piped edge of said front extension, and piping covering the exposed edge of said facing.

14. In a skeleton-lined rest, the combination of front and back sections stitched at the side seam and provided with extensions to permit alteration, at least one of said sections having a folded portion adapted to cover one of the extremitiesof said extension, said one extremity of said extension being cut round at the corner and a continuous strip of piping covering the free edges of said free extension and the free edge of said folded portion, the piping at the junction of the side seam and folded portion being folded beneath said folded portion. I

15. The method of finishing the side seam of a skeleton-lined vest comprising stitching the side seam at a point spaced from the free ends of the front and back sections to provide a side extension, cutting the lower extremity of said back projecting below the front and facing with a rounded corner, stitching a continuous stri of piping to cover the free edge of sai the lower edge of the back section, folding the back and front face to face along the side seam, turning up the rounded pipedcorner of the back below the side seam over the facing and stitching the same in place along a lower extension of the side seam, arranging the front and back in a common plane, and folding the lower back section projecting below the front and facing upwardly on line with the lower edge of front and facing, and stitching the same in place to cover the lower extremity of the side seam.

extension and

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