US1359847A

US1359847A - Manufacture of shoes

Info

Publication number: US1359847A
Application number: US108202A
Authority: US
Inventors: Stedler Heinrich Wilhelm
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1916-07-08
Filing date: 1916-07-08
Publication date: 1920-11-23
Anticipated expiration: 1937-11-23

Description

H. WQSTEDLER.

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES.-

APPLICATION man JULY a. 1916.

Patented Nov. 23, 1920.

3 SHEETS-SHEET I.

, ATTORNB S H. W. STEDLER.

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED JULY a. 1.916.

1,359,847. I Patented Nov. 23-, 1920;

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2- A TTOR/VEVS MW V I w H. W. STEDLER' MANUFACTURE OF SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 8.1916.

Patented Nov. 23, 1920.

a SHEER-SHEETS.

B Y I HEINRICH WILHELM S'IEDLER, or Loss mrz, ERZGEBIRGE, eERMAnY. V

MA UFACTURE or SHOES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed July a, 1916. Serial moi-108,202.

invention, reference being bad to the accompanying drawings, in which 7 Figure 1 is a side view of a" portion of a shoe as being made according to my invention, I

Fig. 2 is a bottom plan of a shoe in course of manufacture according to one form of my invention,

Fig. 3 is a plan view of shoe in course of manufacture similar to that used in Fig. 1,

Figs. 3 and 3 are sectional views showing modifications of abutments used,

Figs. 4 and 5 are sectional elevations showing manner of sewing parts of the shoe together and the machinery-used therefor.

Fig.6 is a perspective view of a finished front tip, a

Fig. 7 is a perspective view of a finished upper without the tip,

Fig.8 is a view showing an inner sole with a steel plate for use in pointed'shoes, or for shoes with a high spring or a high heel,

Fig. 9 Fig. 8, t

Fig. 10 is a vertical section of-a shoe upper showing the inner sole of Fig. 8 introduced into the upper. I

In the methods-used hitherto for manufacturing shoesit was customary to form an upper of a shoe from flat parts of soft leather and to pinch or last it over alast whereby the upper of the shoe was brought to a shape similar to that of the last. This practice has of late met with considerable difliculties owing to the modern requirements as to the exterior appearance of the is a longitudinal vertical section of shoes and because stiffening linings became necessary or were used for maintainingthe shape of the shoes, particularly at the tip.

Hitherto a junction with the inner sole was notpossible without the difficult pinching or lasting work and even then it could Price.)- a

Y Patented Nov. as, 1920.

only be effected after the shoe had again dried .after the moistening required for the pinchlng work.

The uniformity of the shoes was de-' pendent on the tensibility of the leather. If f the leather had an unequal tensibility and no damage was to occur to the appearance of the shoes, this caused a too. tighter too loose'pulling over, 2'. e. a too tight stretching of'the upper in longitudinal direction and resultedin the first case in torn or cracked tips and in the latter case in folds, or wrinkles at the'front tip, the elimination of which was in both cases a great drawback in'the manufacture;

According to my invention I first mold the front tip over the stiffening lining n and fasten it by glue.- Hereby the tipi obtains the shape or fashion of the last ex actly. The inwardly turned flange 70 forms a flat seaming-lap for the connection to the innersole.

The .finished' front tip 71 is then united with the upper aa according toithe dotted line 8 in Fig. 7 or'it is stitched in the same way to the vamp a before connection ofsame to the upper. Whether the shoes are to'be with or without a tip i it is essential to fix the front part of the vamp so that it will effect the upper aa as shown in Fig. 1, sub stantially as described. Along the seaming lap k of the upper a shoulder b is'provided consisting of a cord or any other suitable means. After this preparation the upper is fastened to the innersole by stitches or any other suitable fastening means. This process is done without the use of any last exclusively by guides.- In this fastening or stitching operation the innersole is guided by an edge guide f Fig. 4 provided on the machine. and a process similar to the pinching or lasting is caused now by the action 'of the presserfoot against the shoulder I) provided on the upper. When sewing and thus press ingor pulling down the upper leather by the presser foot of the machine the shoulder 6 draws the upper leather in the arrow direction as shown in Fig. 2 inwardly, the welting'd being fastened by the same stitches by means of aguide in the presserfoot which feeds the welt in a flat and natural way so that any compression or expansion of said welt is excluded.

In very pointed or ladies shoes the shoulder t Figs. 8 and 9 of the steelplate, temporarily attached to the inncrsole,. can be used as a guide in the fastening or stitching operation instead of the guide f Fig. lprovided on the machine. For this purpose and for the purpose of giving the innersole the wanted spring for a low or high heel a sinuous curved steel plate of smaller size than the innersole is used (Figs. 9 and 10). In using the edge t of the stcelplate as a guide the seaming-lap 7c of the upper has to cover the edge part of the innersole not covered by the steelplate, whereby the action of the fastening machine remains as described. v

By employing the shoulder L" of the steelplate exclusively as a guide in the fastening operation the shoulder 6 attached to the upper may be avoided and the feeding or inward drawing of the upper-leather to the ed e guide t be done manually.

l he pulling over or tight stretching of the upper in the longitudinal direction is usually eflected by the introduction of the last into the so formed shoe-casing before fastening the heel part and thus stretching the upper longitudinally before the heelpart is united with the innersole. But on the other hand the heelpart can also be treated like the front part of the shoe and thus the shoe can be sewn all around in position.

If desired this method may also be employed without the frame according to which final method either welt or McKay the shoes are now to be finished.

The manufacture of shoes according to my invention presents great practical and economical advantages. The time required for manufacturing the shoes is considerably shortened as the lasting or pinching process and the wet treament combined therewith are omitted. The expensive lasting, pullingover and welting machines are unnecessary; and a considerable saving of work, workmen and material is obtained and great waste is avoided.

On the vamp a of the upper aa of'the shoe is fixed by means of a seam 0 a shaped or molded front tip 2', as shown in Fig. 1. Sn the front tip 2' is to be seen on the lower side theturned in flange or seaming lap k. Along this turned in flange of the'vamp is fastened by sewing the abutment or shoulder in the shape of a cord 6.

Fig. 2 shows a shoe in the course of man ufacture seen from below, with the innersole a and the welt d. The parts are already united together by seams 39.

Fig. 3 shows the shoe ready sewn. The cord 5 which has been used only while sewing, hasnow been removed and the heelpart,

has been fastened. The turned in flange it is now also clearly to be seen laterally.

Figs. e and 5 show two different sections of thearrangement of the machine used for my improved method, together with the ably influence the effect upon the shoulder or the cord 6 or the like substitute.

Fig. 6. shows a front tip 2' consisting of the upper-leather Z and a stifieninglining a. The front tip has been shaped in its upper part to suit the last or it has been given a proper shape, as shown by shading in the drawing, and has in its lower part a flat flange 7c bent inwardly. .Owing to its qualities the stiffening lining a is capable of maintaining and holding the shape as well as the flange after a single pressing in the molding-operation. The upper-leather Z is covered beforethe molding operation witl a suitable glue and isthereby maintained on the shaped tip. On account of the ductility and the thin layers of both the materials Z and it any formation of bulged parts by the applied pressure is avoided.

Fig. 7 shows an upper act of a shoe, ready with the exception of the front tip. The inner lining on is bent backward to allow both edges r to project, by means of which the ready shaped front tip 2' is sewn to the proper place bya column-machine, as shown by the dotted line 8. I

In the sewing operation for uniting the upper, the innersole and the welt, the upper of the shoe. is drawn by the presserfoot inwardly in the direction of the arrows shown in- Fig. 2, just as it would otherwise occur in the pinching or lasting operation. But the substantial feature consists herein that this inward-drawing or pressing. is per-,

formed by the employment of the guides (f or t) solely in the sewing or fastening process and. by the. respective part of the sewing or fastening machine.

The abutment or shoulder b (for the presser foot) by which the upper part is drawn inwardly as described, could also be formed by other means than by a sewn. on cord. For instance the leather could be provided at certain intervals or points with clips which could afterward be easily removed, as shown in Fig. 3 V

' The upper could. also be turned or. bent around and the bent part be fixed temporarily, as shown in Fig. 3 It is only essential to use means which during the sewing operation allow the presserfoot'to catch hold of the upper and to draw it inwardly, as described.

For shoes with a high spring, the execution shown in Figs. 8 to 10 is applied.

Fig. 8 shows a top View of the innersole c with a .steelplate t. This steelplate is provided with clips or points a or the like, pressed through at various places and by means of which the innersole is held, as Fig. 9 shows in section. As further shown in Fig. 9, the steelplate ,t has a spring corresponding to the heel to be used for the respective shoe. By laying and pressing the steelplate upon the innersole, this latter which consists of leather or the like, assumes the same spring as the steelplate. The thus elevated innersole is then introduced into the finished upper aa, as shownin Fig. 10 and the edge t of the steelplate shown in Figs. 8 and 9, can then be used as V a guide in the described stitching operation or for temporarily fastening the upper to the innersole by means of pins 12, as shown in Fig. 10. After this preliminary fastening the welt can then be sewn on in the previously described way or be left away according to whether the outersole is now to be fastened by the McKay or welt method.

The assembling by means of the wire pins or tacks 1) would be sufiicient to maintain the upper in the proper position until a final assembling with the sole can be effected.

After the uniting operation of upper and whenusing only one of the fastening seams 7) (Fig. 2) or using one of the two seams for connecting the upper to the innersole I and the other for connecting the welt to the already united upper and innersole.

I claimz- V 1. The method of making shoes having a previously formed "tip with an inwardly bent flange or seaming lap, an insole, and an upper, comprising providing an abutment member on the outer edge of the up,-

per, positioning the upper by pressing the previously formed tip with an inwardly extending flange or ecuring lap, an insole, and an n per, comprising providing a detachable exible abutment. member adjacent the outer edge of the upper, positioning the up-:

per by pressing the abutment inwardly over the bottom of the insole and parallel to the edge thereof, seeuringthe upper and insole together, and removing the abutment.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name in the presence of two subscribing witnesses. a

HEINRICH WILHELM STEDLER;

Witnesses: 1 Y

RENE DE'WOLF, W. H. MUEOKEY.