US1241479A - Cuff. - Google Patents

Description

F.v M. Pfzsswvlcw.-

cuff,

APPLICATION ,FILED APR. 5| ISIS.

419mg. Y Pmndsapt. 25,1%7

2 's HEETsfs-HEET 1.

IHN

II u.

F. M` PRESTWICH.

cuff.

APPLICATION FILED APVLG. 19H5.

' 2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

Patented sept. 25,191?,

entran FRANK M. PRESTWICH, Ol NEWT "ZGRK, l', Y.

CUFF.

Leraars..

Application filed April 6, '1916.

of the cuff adhere together, they lack the attractive appearancel which they should have if they are to be widely used. I have discovered that an unstarched cuff can be made equally attractive if the interlining is .properly arranged, and this arrangement mainly resides in making the interlining in suchl a way that it will be less conspicuous when the cuff is folded. To obtain this result it is frequently advantageous to diminish the thickness of said interlining at the fold' of the cuff while giving it its full thickness elsewhere or to make the interlining heavier on the free flap of the cud.

Other features and advantages will hereinafter appear.

lin the accompanying drawings- Figurel is a perspective view of one of my cus as worn withthe eXtra face turned in. Fig. 2 is a side View of the cuff partly I broken away.

Fig. 3 is a view of a modification, but otherwise like Fig. 2. 1

Fig. 4 is a face View, partly broken away, of the cuff shown in Figs. 5 and 6.

Fig. 5 is a section of a cuff embodying all the advantages of the alternative forms,-- this view being largely diagrammatic and expanded for clearness.

.Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 5, but shows the ou folded. v.

My cud' is shown as stitched to a sleeve l and it comprises two faces each having a complete covering 2, 3, of the outside material,-said material being usually that of which the body of the shirt is made. To make the cuff, the outside thicknesses out to the right shapes, are iirstv stitched together, back sides out, by a seam 4, and then turned inside out. One or more interlinings are then placed inside the bag so formed, the interlinings closely conforming to the edges of the bagand placed between the inwardly peceation of Letters Patent.

Patented iiept. ,25, imi i?.

Serial No. 89,276.

projecting ends 6, 7 of the material. The interlinings are then stitched into place by running a seam' or stitching 8 near the edge of the bag, so that this seam will bind together the ends (Sand .7 and hold the interlinings l2, 13 and l5 between them, one long side however being left open. This long side is then stitched to the sleeve by an extension of the seam or stitching` 8 which passes through the sleeve.y and at the same time sews up the open cuil". ln order to get the proper effect the end of the sleeve is doubled over, and the seam S passes through the whole cuff and the sleeve. The seam 8 comes close to the end of the doubled over part of the sleeve, thus completely concealing it. By having the seam 8 set in from the edge of the cuff as is usual, the culi" edge l1 will seem to be the edge of a turned over cuff thus making the appearance of the free cuff identical whichever way it is folded and worn.

ln order to obtain the right kind of a fold where the cuff is folded. over, l modify the interlinings at this point. For this purpose 'I have found it advantageous to either eliminate one interlining at this point or to make the interlinings comparatively light. The utility of this arises partly from the fact that if the cuff is folded one way the outside face should be longer than the inside, while when the saine cuil is folded the opposite way that same face should be shorter. By providii'iga weak place in the interlining, l' make it possible for the outside face to draw itself taut across the inside face so as to avoid crinkling it. This avoiding of crinkling is apparently due to the fact that the relative weakness of the cuff at the fold makes all attempted crinkling take place in such a confined place that there is no crinkling at all properly so called, because ,the inside face of the cuff is pinched between the slightly distant thicker portions of the interlining. ln other words'one face becomes sort of a hinge for the other, of which the butts are formed by vthe eXtra thicknesses of the adjacent interlining. rlhese functions are possible because the unstarchedf culi' permits the faces to slide over the interlining and each other, and this would not be possible in a starched cuff, because the starch ceinents the feces to each other and to the interlining. r

ln Fig. 2 ll have shown this interlining iic I meet, thus forming' a equivalent 2a 21 makes the cuit appear a 35 This may be obtained by perforatin 4o cuii by a tension interlining 45 way over each. The outer faces completely 65 this iiap heavier.

as made from two entirely separate pieces of cloth 12 and 13, each of which, as seen at Figs. 2 and 3, covers almost half of the cuff; these pieces, however, fail to quite the inside covering 2 doubles up slightly and forms a pintle of a hinge. Each piece of interlining 12 and 13 is advantageously formed of a single piece of thin muslin or material, of which the edges 'are (caught 1n the outside seam 8. These inter'- lining pieces should be made of very light material, and should approximate in exibility to the covering material of the cu's 15 so that they will be inconspicuous.- Unless this is carefully provided for, the cuff will lose its natural soft edect. The interlining is advantageo'hsly kept in place by being v stitched to one face of the cud by a seam 2c 21v or else the interlining is kept in place by lighter material stitched by a seam 17 forming a holding means 18 extending from one interlining to the other. Where the interlin'ing is stitched to the other face the seam diderent style onv that face from what it does on the other thus .enablingthe wearer to give the impressionv ofwearin two different shirts when wearing the cu the two ways. Thus the interliu .0 is not a padding as it would be in Va starc ed cuii", but is a spring backing.

For some forms of material it isadvantageous to but to weaken it at the fold of the cuf. t e interlining along the edge of the cu I have shown in Fig. 3 how this maybe done with advantage by having interlinings 12` and 13 but not coming u'p' to the fold of the considerable fraction of an inch, oreven by a greater amount. The interlinin s 12 and 13 are stitched by a very inconsplcuous seam 17 to an intermediate or ex- 18 which extends part conceal vthese inside seams and thus glve the cud a very attractive appearance.

i In order to get the best effect, I iind 1t advantageous to have one part of the interl lining heavler than the rest, and to obtain this advantage this heavier lining must be on the Hap of the cuff which is free of the sleeve. This heavier section is formed by an extra or reinforcing piece 22 stitched by 55 seams 23 to the interlining bf which it forms a part. y

The Whole combination is shown in Fig. 4:, of which Figs. 5 and 6 are diagrammatic sectional views. In these iigures the' per- A'60 for-ated interlining 15 extends completely from one end of the cuff to the other and is perforated at 19. Adjacent along the rectangular perforations on the outer flap of the cui?, is the reinforcing piece 22 making This reini'krcingir piece little pocket in which make the interlining continuous,.

need not cover the Wholelap sinceits'principal function is to give stiffness to the free flap adjacent the fold.. The two half interlinings -12 and 13 are heid together by the intermediate weaker interlining, and mayin addition be stitched by the stitching 21 to the adjacent face of the cuff, thus combining the advantages of construction shown in Figs. 2 and 3, While the interlining 15 andreinforcing 22 give the advantages men-- tioned above for them. It will beA noted that' 'in Fig. 5) which overlaps the interlinings 12 and 13 on each side of the fold, reinforces the interlinings and thus stiens the culi".

at the fold without making it bulky' elsewhere. It'should be remembered that Figs. 5 and 6 are merely diagrarn'matifc, and that in the cuff as made the interlinings and Yfaces touch each other and lare Vstitchedto` gether at .the ends and to the sleeve as def' scribed above to get the flap effect wherethe' sleeve joins the'cui. The cuff includes two buttonholes along each edge of the usual form.

While I have described c rtain featurfs of' r my invention in great detai I have done. so

only to enable those skilled inthe art to appreciate some, advantages -of my invention, but what I lclaim as my invention is 1. A reversible cuff, foldable in either. direction' upon itself, so as to providea flap for attachment to a sleeve and a free flap.

adapted to lie against either Iface ofthe attachment Hap; said cuff comprising two outer faces stitched together along` ,their marginal edges, a separateinterlining'piece for each flap of the cuff, said' interlining pieces substantially comingup tolthe fold line of the cuit but slightly'l'spaced'apart at loc such line, and means within'the'cuiffkor holding saidinterlining piecesin place at. the fold and permitting saido'uter cuff faces tohsllide freely relative to'each other atthe 2. A reversible culi, folda'ble in either direction upon itself, so as toA provide a hap for attachment to a sleeve and a free flap adapted toy lie against eitheryface of 'the lattachment flap; said cuff comprising two outer faces stitched together along their marginal edges., an interlning piece for each flap of the cuff, said interlining pieces substantially coming up to the Afold line of the cuii but lightly spaced apart atsuch line, and an interlining. joining the first-mentioned interlinings for holding the Same in place at thefld and'permitting `said leo and stitched outer cuff faces to slide freely relative to each other at the fold, and which is per orated at the fold of the cui".

3. A reversible cuff, -foldable in either direction upon itself, so as to provide a flap for attachment to a sleeve and a free flap adapted to lie against either face' of the attachment Hap; said cuff comprising two outer faces stitched together along their marginal edges, a separate mterlining piece for each fiapj'of the cui, said interlining pieces substantially coming up to the fold line of the auf but slightly spaced apart at such line, and an additional interlining `piece bridging the space. between the'rst-mentionedinterlining pieces and overlapping to the latter to hold them in place. -1 f V4:. The combination with a sleeve, of a foldable cuii' having outer faces foldable on themselves, a reinforcement lying on the free iiap portion of said cuff and terminating along the folding edge, an interlining overlapping said reinforcement and stitching for holding said reinforcement and interlining in place.

5. A reversible cui, foldalole in either direction upon itself, so as to provide a iiap for attachment to a sleeve and a free ap adapted to lie against either face of the attachment ap; said cuff comprising two outer faces stitched together along their marginal edges, an interlining. piece -for each flap of the cu', said interlining pieces coming substantially up to the fold line of the cui but slightly spaced apart at said line, a weaker interlining joining the firstnamed interlinings for holding the same in place at the fold and permitting said outer cuff faces to slide freely'relative to each other at the fold, and an additional interlining covering substantially the entire face' of the cu", and which is perforated at the fold of the cu.

Signed at 39 E 4 st. in the county ofl New York and State of' New York this 3d day of AprilA. D. 1916.

FRANK M. Pnns'rwieri. Witnesses:

' KATHARINE A. MCNAMARA,

DAvm Fanno. r

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