US1230216A

US1230216A - Shoe.

Info

Publication number: US1230216A
Application number: US863129A
Authority: US
Inventors: Adam H Prenzel
Original assignee: United Shoe Machinery Co AB
Current assignee: USM Ltd; United Shoe Machinery Co AB
Priority date: 1912-10-12
Filing date: 1914-09-23
Publication date: 1917-06-19
Anticipated expiration: 1934-06-19

Description

A. H. PRENZEL.

SHOE. I

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 23. I914.

Patented June 19, 191?.

2 SHEETS-SHEET I.

A. H. PRENZLL.

SHOE.

m n mama/mow min SEPT. 23, 1924. D T 1 l'iu i fi ag 55 mtenmhune 19, 1917 2 SHEETSSHEET 2.

warren snares earner enri ADAM H. PRENZEL, OF HALIFAX, PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIG-NDR T0 UNITED SHOE TEACHIZIER-Y COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NETN SHOE.

rea ers.

Specification of Letters Iatent.

Patenteddune 19. 191?.

Original application filed October 12, 1912, Serial lilo. 725,478. Patent No. 1,117,688, dated November 10, 19141. Divided and this applieationfiled September 23, 1914. Serial 1101863329.

. the upper, commonly termed stitch-down shoes.

One of the objects of the present invention is to produce a stitch-down shoe which shall be conformed properly to the last, in the shank as well as at the heel end and around the forepart, and which in this and every other way shall present as neat an appearance as a shoe of pny other type, which shall I be so constructed as to retain its original neat appearance after long wear, and which can be manufactured with a minimum of labor and expense.

An important feature of the invention is the location of the angle of the upper relatively to a sole located inside the upper and supporting the upper upon the inside and a second sole having a margin extending beyond the edge of the first sole and to which the flange is secured. Inithe construction herein shown as illustrating a preferred embodiment of the inventiontthe angle of the upper is located between the margin of the insole and the upper face of the outsole, whereby both the angle of the upper and the inner edge of the welt as well may be brought into the crease formed between the marginal portions of the insole and the outsole thereby improving the appearance of the shoe and providing a firm support for the upper upon the inside of the shoe so that it does not draw back from the welt as in stitch-down shoes as heretofore made.

The invention is herein shown as embodied in a stitch-down shoe of the type in which a portion of the upper is lasted in over an insolc or over a heel seat piece while the remaining portion is turned out and stitched down in the usual manner, as dis tinguished from stitch-down shoes of the type in which a continuous flange is formed upon the upper and stitched down upon the sole all the way around, and another object of the invention is to obviate the difficulty heretofore experienced in the manufacture of stitch-down shoes of the type illustrated in making a satisfactory joint where the outturned and inturned portions of the upper meet. To this end, the invention aims to produce a stitch-down shoe in which the upper shall be lasted in; only at the heel seat and shall be turned out and stitched down upon the sole thr dugh the shank and about the forepart winch shall have a tight and neat appearing joint where the outturned and inturned portions of the upper meet. It is to be understood, however, that the applicability of various features of the invention including features hereinbefore mentioned is not limited to stitch-down shoes of the type shown.

Other objects and novel features of the invention will appear from the following description and claims when considered in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which:

Figure 1 is a perspective view showing the novel last and the novel insole employed in making the shoe of this invention;

Fig. 2 illustrates the outsole employed when the shoe is either a no-heel shoe or a 1slice having an outside heel built up of i ts;

Fig. 3 shows the formation of the outsole for a spring heel shoe;

Fig. 4 shows the arrangement of the upper and lining and the contour of the lining at the toe end of the shoe;

Fig. 5 illustrates the shoe after the lining has been turned in and cemented down upon the insole and after the heel end of the upper and counter have been turned in and lasted down upon the insole;

Fig. 6 is a detail perspective, partly in section, showing the lasting of the upper through the shank'and forepart region and the location of the Welt abutting lift with respect to the outturned portion of the upper; 1

Fig. 7 is a detail section showing the relative locations of the different parts of the completed shoe while it is still upon the last; and

Fig. 8 is a side elevation of a completed shoe.

To facilitate obtaining from the lasting operation the desired location of the angle of the upper beneath the edge of the innersole whereby the inner edge of the welt may also be brought beneath the edge ofthe insole or in the crease of the upper, the last 2 employed in making this shoe is preferably beveled along the bottom edge, as shown at 4., in Figs. 1 and 7, and a bevel (3 is preferably also provided upon the insole 5. It will be understood, however, that in some cases one of these bevels may be dispensed with, particularly when the insole is comparatively thin. The outer edge of the in sole, when it has been placed upon the last, is preferably substantially flush with the side of the last and the insole is temporarily secured upon the last in this position by any suitable fastening means, such as stay tacks 8 shown in Fig. 1.

After the insole has been placed upon the last, an upper 10 having a lining 12 is placed upon the last, the lining 12 of the upper preferably projecting beyond the edge of the upper in order to provide for a considerable margin to be turned in and cemented down upon the insole. About the toe end the lining is preferably notched, as

shown at 14., so that when it is turned in over the edge of the insole it may be cemented down smoothly upon the insole, as shown in Fig. 5. The upper and insole having been placed upon the last, the lining is drawn tight over the edge of the insole and cemented down upon the insole all the way around.

A convenient mode of effecting this cementing operation is to prepare a number of insoles by spreading glue over the bottom face of each, 'n'eferably over the whole of the bottom face, and then allowing the glue to dry upon the insoles until they are ready for use. l/Vhen the operation of lasting in the. lining over the insole is to be performed, the insole may then be passed over a jet of steam to soften up the glue, after which the cementing operation can easily be performed by simply pressing the lining into the glue upon the bottom face of the insole.

lhe lining having been t'urned in and l cemented down upon the bottom face of the insole, the heel end 15 of the upper and the counter l6 are'turned in and lasted down upon the insole, preferably by means of lasting tacks inthe usual manner. After the heel seat has been lasted in, an outsole -17 is placed on the last and the lower margin of the forepart and shank of'the upper is then turned outand lasted down upon this outsole. In order to permit the upper to be turned in at the heel end and lasted down upon the insole and turned out in front of the heel and lasted down upon the outsole, the upper is preferably cut in from the edge upon each side, as shown at 18 and 20, to the line where the flange is to be turned out.

From an inspection of 'Fig. 6 it will be noted that the outturned flange of the upper will form a thickness upon the upper face of the sole margin which Will not extend around the. heel end of the sole. Moreover when the welt has been laid upon this outturned flange and the parts have been united.

by stitches in the usualvmanner, another.

thickness of material will appear upon the sole margin through the shank and about the forepart which will not appear upon the heel end of the sole. The thickness of the edge of the sole will, therefore, appear to be much greater through the shank and about the forepart than at the heel end. Moreover the appearance of the joint where the inturned and outturned portions of the upper meet will be very unsatisfactory be cause of the abrupt tern'iination of the welt at this point.

To improve the appearance of the joint at this point, and at the same time to provide a better joint at this point, the outsole is preferably provided upon the upper face.

of its heel end with a raised welt abutting portion which may be in the form of a lift 22 of such a thickness upon its outer edge that the exposed upper face of this lift will lie substantially flush with the upper face of the welt. ,In Fig.2 is shown an outsole provided with such a lift upon the upper face of its heel end, this outsole. beii'ig adapted especially for u'se either with a shoe having no heel or with a shoe having a heel built up on (he outside or bottom face of the outsole. lVhen the invention is to be embodied in spring heel shoes, the outsole is preferably built up, as shown in Fig. 3, the underwedge or spring lift 24being inserted between the weltabutting lift 92 and the upper face of the heel end of the sole, and the sole being then pressed down or sprung, as shown at 26, so that the front edge of the outer margin of the well. abutting lift 2;

will project above the shank portion of the sole sufficiently to cause the exposed edge of this lift to lie substantially flushvvith the upper face of the welt in the finished shoe.

In preparing the outsole for lasting, the

Welt aiputting lift 22 is preferably cemented I, upon he upper face of the heel end of the outsole and is then pressed firmly in position, the center of this lift being preferably depressed, as shown in Fig. 2, to bring its upper surface near the upper surface of the remaining portion of the outsole. The outsole is preferably also prepared. for the lasting operation in a manner similar to the preparation ofr-"the insole hereinabove described, that is, the outsole is preferably provided over its whole upper face with a coating of glue which is allowed to dry upon the outsole until the outsole is ready for use. When the outsole is to be used, its coating of glue is exposed to a jet of steam and softened and the outsole is then located carefully upon the last with the forward edge of the welt abutting lift 22 abutting against the rear edges of the outturned flange 30 of the upper, the out-sole being pressed down so that it adheres to the insole and to the inturned lining. lhe lower margin of the upper along the shank and about the forepart is then turned out and the upper is drawn tightly over the last and secured in lasted position, preferably by staples 32 inserted in the angle of the upper close to the side of the last. This lasting operation may conveniently be performed upon a'machine of the type disclosed in my co-pending application Serial No. 725,477, filed October 12, 1912, upon which United States Letters Patent No. 1,117 ,087 were granted November 10, 1914:.

Inasmuch as the edge of the last has been beveled, as shown at 4, and, in the illustrated shoe, the edge of the insole has also been beveled, as shownat 6, during this lasting operationthe angle of the upper may be forced in between the edge of the insole and the outsole, thus forming a deep crease in the upper into which the inner edge of the beveled welt 34 may be thrust, thereby forming a tight joint between the welt and the upper and also insuring proper support for the upper upon the inside of the shoe.

It will be noted from an inspection of Fig. 7 that the staples 30 are driven into the angle 31 of the upper at such an inclination to the face of the sole that the legs of the staples extend beneath the edge of the last and beneath the edge of the insole. staples are thus inserted in directions substantially transverse to the direction of pull of the stretched upper and in such directions that when the heads of the staples are cov ered by the welt, as shown in Fig. 7, there is substantially no opportunity for the staples to work loose.

The insole being cemented firmly down upon the outsole within the bounds of its beveled edge, a shoe is produced in which the upper is firmly supported in its lasted condition and which will keep its shape after the last is removed and even after long wear. As suggested above, the welt 34 is preferably beveled so that it is thinner upon its inner edge than upon itsouter edge. An important reason for beveling this welt, in addition to that of permitting it to be thrust easily beneath the overhanging part of the upper into the crease or angle 31 formed be- The tween the upper and the outturned flange, is the desirability of covering the outer edge 36 of this flange in order that it may not be egzposed to interfere with the finishing operation upon the edge of the sole. After the lasting operation, this edge of the upper is preferably trimmed back from the edge of the sole, as shown in Fig. 6, so that when the beveled welt 3a is placed upon the edge the thicker outer edge of this welt will overhang the edge of the upper flange and the lower face of the welt will contact with the upper face of the sole margin, thus making a tight joint along the edge of the sole for the finishing operation.

When the welt is placed upon the upper margin 30, one end of the welt is carefully abutted against the exposed portion of the front edge of the welt abutting lift 22 upon one side of the shoe and the other end, as the stitching operation is completed, is carefully cut to abut against the other exposed portion of the front edge of said lift 22. The stitches 38 are preferably inserted close to the side of the upper so that they will pass through the welt, upper flange and sole and so that they will also insure maintenance of the upper in shape after the last has been removed.

After the welt, theoutturned ange of the upper and the outsole have been stitchen together and the ends of the welt have been abutted against the exposed portions of the front edge of the lift 22, the heel end of the sole is attached to the insole, upper and counter, preferably by nails driven through these parts and clenched upon the inside of the shoe in the usual manner. These nails are preferably so located that the edge of the heel end of the sole and the edge of the lift 22 may be trimmed close to the side of the upper in the manner usual in the making of the better grades of shoes. If an outside heel is employed, such as shown in Fig. 8, the nails are preferably inserted through this heel also. When nailing the parts together, care is taken to have the parts securely nailed near the junction of the out turned and inturued parts of the upper so that a tight joint may be secured at this point.

In Fig. 8 of the drawings is shown in side elevation a finished shoe. From this figure it will be noted that the exposed sole edge has an appearance of uniform thickness all th way around, that the heel seat end of th sole does not differ in appearance from the heel seat end of any of the better grades of shoes, such for example as the Goodyear shoe, and that the creasing under of the upper about the forepart and particularly about the toe serves further to improye the appearance of the shoe and to produce a shoe which can scarcely be distinguished.

from a Goodyear shoe. Not only is the apsit:

' this shoe and of its construction it will be ties of the shoe are substantially equal to apparent that. both the lit and wearing qualithose of the better grades of shoes.

It will be noted from tin-inspection 0t Figs. 4 and 5 that the shoe illustrated in the drawings comprises, besides the upper 10 and the lining 12, a toe cap 4-0 and a strip of stiffening material l2. As shown in the drawings, these parts are lasted into their final shape together with other parts of the shoe. It will be understood, however, that the toe part of the upper together with the toe stifi'ener and toe cap may be molded into substantially their final shape before the upper is placed upon the last. The invention contemplates also a shoe in which the counter and the heel end of the upper are molded into substantially their final shapes before the lasting operation upon these parts.

The novel process of making the shoe oi the present invention, which process has been described in'considerable detail here inabove, is not herein claimed but is made the subject matter of my co-pending application Serial No. 725,478, filed October 12, 1912, for Letters Patent for improvements lIl processes of making shoes, upon which.

application Letters Patent No. 1,117,088 were granted November 10, 191-1, and of which the present application is a division.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters I Patent of the United States is 1. A stitch-down shoe comprising an upper having an outturned flange, a sole locatcd inside said upper and supporting the upper upon the inside above the plane of the flange, and a second sole having a margin extending beyond the edge of the first sole and to which the flange is secured, the angle of the upper being located between the lower 1 face of the first sole and tlre upper face of the second sole, and said second sole being also secured to said first sold.

2. A stitch-down shoe comprising an upper having an outturned flan e, an insole having an inclined marginal ace, an outile having a margin projecting beyond the edge of the insole and between which and the inclined marginal face of the insole the angle of the upper is located, staples secun ing the upper in said location, and a welt covering the heads of the staples and said upper flange. and united to the upper and outsole by stitches. Y

3. A shoe comprising an upper having an outturned llange at the shank and about the l'orepart, an insole over the heel end of which the counter and heel end of the upper are lasted, a second sole having a margin v lining which is turned in and secured upon the bottom 01 the insole, an outso'le having a margin projecting beyond the edge of the insole in the angle between which and the insole. the angle of the upper is located,

staples securing the upper in said location,-

and a welt covering the heads of the staples and said upper flange and united to the up per and outsole by stitches.

5. A shoe comprising an upper having an outturned flange at the shankfand about the forepart, an insole over which the counter and heel end of the upper are lasted, an

outsole having upon its upper face a raised portion extending substantially to the front end of the turned-in part of the upper and abutting: the outturned part of the upper,

and a welt laid upon the outturi'ied upper" and abutting said raised portion of the sole, said welt, upper and sole being permanently secured together. v

6. A shoe comprising an upper having an out-turned flange at the shank and about the forepart, an insole over the heel end of which'the counter and heel end of the upper are lasted, an outsole having upon its upper face'a raised portion extending substantially to the front end of the turned-in part of the vupper and abutting the outturned part of the upper, the angle of the outturned part of the upper being located between the lower face of the insole and the upper face of the outsole, staples inserted through the vertex of said angle for securing the upper to the outsole, and a welt extending into said angle and covering the heads of the staples and the outturned flange of the upper and abutting said raised portion of thesole, said sole, upper and outsole being permanently se cured together. 1 v

7. A stitch-down shoe comprising an up per having an outturned flange, an insole having an inclined marginal face, an outsold having a "margin projecting beyond the edge of the insoleintoithe space between which and the inclined marginal face of the insole the angle of the upper is creased, staples securing the upper in'said location, and a welt covering theheads of the staples and said upper flange and having its inner edge located in the crease of the upper, said welt being united to the upper and outsole by stitches.

8. A. stitch-down shoe comprising an upper having an outturned flange, an insole, an

outsole having a margin rejecting beyond the edge of the insole and spaced from the marginal gortion of the insole, the angle of the upper eing located in the space between the marginal portion of the insole and the outsole, means for securing the angle of the upper in said location, and a welt overlying said means and said upper flange and united to the upper and outsole by stitches.

ADAM H. PBENZEL.

Witnesses:

L. W. RYAN, G. W. SHULTZ.