US1216324A - Presser-foot for shoe-sewing machines. - Google Patents

Description

I. A. KELLY.

PRESSER FOOT FOR SHOE SE-WlNG MACHINES.

APPLICATION mzo NOV. 3. 19:3.

1,8163%. Patented Feb. 20,1917.

JokriAlfiaZQ ATTORNEYS JOHN A. KELLY, or PIV-IILADELPHIA,PENNSYLVANIA.

PRESSER-FOOT FOR. SHOE-SEWING MACHINES.

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Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Feb. 2Q, 1917.

Application filed November 3, 1918. Serial No. 738,799.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JOHN A. KELLY, a citizen of the United States, residing in the city of Philadelphia, county of Philadelphia, and State of Pennsylvania, have invented a certain new and useful Presser-Foot for Shoe- Sewing Machines, of which the following is a specification.

This invention is a presser foot for shoe sewing machines, the object being to so con duct the operation of stitching the upper and the sole as to secure a tight and uniform seam with less tension on the working parts.

The presser foot of this invention is char: acterized by a construction which presses the upper against the perpendicular face of the shoulder on the sole, and said presser foot not only retains the upper in engagement with the top face of the sole, but its primary purpose is to press the upper into the space between the flange and the perpendicular face of the shoulder while the stitching operation is being conducted, the upper and sole being held in the necessary firm relation while the sewing machine locks the stitch, whereby the machine is relieved of unnecessary or undue tension.

An important function of the presser foot is that it determines the path of the needle, thus preventing it from passing either too high or too low into the shoulder of the sole. This is due to the fact that when the presser foot acts to press the upper in the recess or space of the sole, the members of the presser foot are positioned next to and upon the shoulder, and thus the needle in its movement through the throat of the presser foot is compelled to pass into the shoulder at the point determined by the position of the presser foot.

Other features and advantages of the illvention will be pointed out in the following detailed description.

Figure 1 illustrates a last with a sole and an upper of a turn shoe applied thereto showing the relation of the new presser foot and of the needle before stitching.

Fig. 2 is a view similar to Fig. 1 with the presser foot in an operative position to force the upper into the space between the flange and shoulder of the insole, the needle being thrust through the upper and the sole for producing a seam.

Fig. 8 is a perspective viewof the improved presser foot removed from the machine.

A designates the presser foot consisting of a single piece of metal showing the form shown more particularly in Fig. 3. The operative end of this presser foot is forked at a so as to produce a recess or throat through which a needle C is adapted to operate in the usual way. By providing the fork in the operative end of the presser foot, two members A A are formed. The member A is provided with a curved face for contact with the upper in a manner similar to the ordinary presser foot of a shoe stitching machine, but the other member A is peculiarly constructed for the purpose of.

carrying out this invention. Said member A is recessed at Z) so as to form a toe piece 0 and a pressure shoulder (Z, the latter being positioned below the toe piece 0. The member A is somewhat longer than the corresponding member A so that the toe piece 0 extends upwardly and beyond the operative or free end of member A As shown, the presser foot is provided with a pivot e by which it is hung on or to an operating part of the machine, and said foot is provided, also, with an aperture f adapted to receive a pin from an operating part of the machine so that the presser foot will be operated in the required manner and at the required times.

The presser foot of this invention is employed on shoe sewing machines of the ordinary or standard construction. The presser foot is useful particularly on machines for sewing turn shoes and in the manufacture of such a shoe the sole D and upper E are lasted in the ordinary way upon a last F, as clearly shown in Figs. 1 and 2.

As is usual in the art the sole of a turn.

shoe is provided with a marginal flange g, a shoulder and a channel'i'producing a feather in which a part of the seam is adapted to lie. The sole is imposed upon the last for the flange g to be substantially flush with the outer surface of the last, the shoulder it being perpendicular to the last so that the sole is in a position for receiving the upper which is to be stitched thereto. The upper is lasted in the ordinary way to the flange and shoulder of the sole, but in the operation of stitching the upper and the sole the presser foot performs the important function of drawing the edge portion of the upper into tight engagement with the top surface of flange g and the perpendicular face of shoulder 71,. During the sewing operation the operative end of the presser foot is presented to the upper and the sole in the positions shown in Fig. 2, the member A and the shoulder (Z entering the space or recess between the flange 9 and shoulder h of the upper, whereas the toe piece 0 lies over the top edge portion of the sole. The presser foot thus applies pressure to the edge portion of the upper so as to press said upper into firm engagement with the perpendicular face of shoulder h and at the same time the upper is pressed downwardly upon the top face of flange g and the incised portion 11 of the sole, all as clearly shown in Fig.2. While the upper is retained in the described relation to the sole the needle C passes through the upper and the shoulder of the sole so as to produce a seam and at this time the parts are held in the described relation while the machine locks the stitch. As a result of these operations the upper and the sole are united by a tightly locked seam, and the machine is relieved of undue tension, it being apparent that the new presser foot acts to apply pressure to the parts in a way to preclude the common objection of a loose or slack seam.

While I have shown and described the presser foot as being especially adapted for producing a tight seam on that class of shoes known in the trade as a turn shoe, it is apparent that the presser foot may be used also on machines for sewing other styles of shoes so as to secure tight seams.

In the ordinary way of lasting and stitching, the upper is drawn over the sole and tacked against the top face of the sole, thus leaving the recess or space next to the shoulder unfolded by the upper, as shown in Fig. 1. Now, my invention acts upon the upper so as to press the same into this space or recess, as shown in Fig. 2, the result of which is that the upper is drawn or pressed tightly against the shoulder h, and is held in such firm tight position until the machine locks the seam.

As is usual in sewing machines of the kind I with which my presser foot is employed, a feeder or awl is positioned to travel in the channel on the opposite side from the presser foot, said feeder or awl acting as a support for the last against the thrust of the presser foot and serving, also, as a guide in the sew ing operation. I 1

Furthermore, the common method of stitching requires the thread to be placed under very considerable tension, but in my invention, the presser foot holds the upper so tightly against the shoulder and top face of the sole that the sole and upper can be stitched and the seam locked without requiring such considerable tension on the thread; in fact, the thread tension can be reduced at leastone-half and still secure a good tight seam.

to apply pressure thereto for forcing said upper into the recess of the sole and against the perpendicular face of the shoulder thereon, the other member of said presser foot being positioned for contact with that part of the upper which overlaps the sole, where by the presser foot acts directly upon the upper and the sole for drawing the upper into close contact with the shouldered part of said sole during the stitch forming operation and the position of the needle relatively to the shouldered part of the sole is determined with accuracy.

2. In a shoe sewing machine, the combination with a last adapted to carry an upper and a sole the marginal portion of which is recessed to produce a marginal flange and a shoulder, of a presser foot provided with two members one of which is longer than the other and is provided with a toepiece, said short member of the presser foot being positioned to enter the angle formed by the flange and shoulder of the sole so as to apply pressure to said upper for folding said upper into the recess and against the shoulder of the sole, and the other longer member of said presser foot being positioned for the toepiece to contact with the upper and press the latter upon the face of the sole, whereby the presser foot cooperates directly with the upper so as to draw it tightly'relatively to the flanged and marginal portion of the sole and the position of the needle relatively to the shouldered sole is determined with accuracy.

8. A presser foot for shoe sewing mal. A presser foot the operative end of which is provided with a plurality of members unitary w1th sa1d presser foot and separated relatively to each other by an intervening nee(.lle-tl1roat, one of said members being provided with a pressure shoulder and with a toe piece, said pressure shoulder being positioned. substantially in the plane of the operative face on the other of said 1,216,324 lei ,members and said toe piece extending forwardly with respect to the upper portion of said pressure shoulder, said toe piece being so related to the pressure shoulder that the contact of the pressure shoulder and the operative face of one member with an upper to force the latter into the angle of an insole brings said toe piece into position for pressing the marginal portion of said upper into contact with the top surface of the insole.

5. A presser foot the operative end of which is provided with two members unitary with said presser foot, one of said mem bers being provided with a pressure shoulder and with a toe piece the latter extending beyond said pressure shoulder, and the operative face of the other of said members being positioned rearwardly of said toe piece of the first named member.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

JOHN A. KELLY.

Witnesses:

H. I. BERNHARD, M. C. RODRIGUEZ.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents,

Washington, D. G.

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