US1204769A - Welting. - Google Patents

Description

E. O. HOOD.

WELTING.

F/ELZ- APPLICATION FILED JMLS. I916- Patelited Nov. 14, 1916.

uvvavwa I "EDWARD OAKMAN' noon, 0F WELLESLEY HILLS, MASSACHUSETTS.

Specification bf etters Patent. P t ted N 14, 1-91 Application filed January '3, i916. semi Nd. $9,805.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, EDWARD OAKM ANi HOOD, a citizen of the United States, res1ding at IVellesley Hills, in the county of Norfolk' and State of Massachusetts, have in-" vented new and useful Improvements in elting, of which the following is a specification.

to welting, or a welt strip for use in shoemaking.

The object of the invention is to provide welting having the particular usefulqualities and advantageshereinafter particularly described.

The precise nature of the invention fully appears from the following description of a particular embodiment thereof.

In the drawings, Figure l is a perspective view of a welt strip embodying my invention. Fig. 2 is a longitudinal side view of a fragment of such strip. Fig. 3 is a cross section on line 33 of Fig.1.

The improved welting which. I have produced by the present invention is two ply consisting of a body ply a and a face ply or veneer Z). Each ply is made as welt strips have heretofore been made, ofnarrow strips or pieces placed end to end to make a continuous strip of indefinite length, the joints between the successive pieces being beveled or scarfed and cemented. The two plies so made of pieces joined end to end are placed one upon the other and cemented or otherwise securely joined throughout theirentire length. In so connecting one-ply to the other care is taken that the joints 0, 0,. etc.,

between the pieces of one ply' are intermediate the joints (Z, (Z, d, etc, of the other ply.

It will be noted that the joints of the two plies are oppositely inclined; thatjis, that while the joints 0 between the sections of the lower ply are inclinedupward from right to left, when viewed as shown in the drawings, the joints cl'in the top ply are downwardly inclined from right to left when viewed in the same manner. Thereby the piece on the left'hand'side'of each joint overlaps the piece at the right hand side of the joint in each ply. This construction and arrangement of the joints is a feature of much importance in my invention for this reason.

the strips are pulled past knives or other cutting tools in contact with a guard or gage. It is highly important that the joints in the bodyply should pass the grooving and beveling knives in such direction that the thin 'edgeof the outer scarf is the last partof the joint to pass the knives, for, if the directionof feeding were the opposite of this, the knives would have The object of the present invention relates a tendency to dig into thejoint, pull up the overlapping scarf, and either tear open the jointor out too deeply, gouging or tea-ring out a part of the Strip and weakening it. That'is, referring to Fig. 2, the strip must 'be fed past the knives in the direction of tendency to bend back and pull the overlapping scarf and open the joint to a greater or less extent. \Vith the two ply strip, the

outer ply overlyingthe joints in the body ply prevents such joints from being pulled open by' the gage and guard members of machines in which the welting is operated upon, while the arrangement of the joints d on this ply on. the opposite inclination to the joints of the body ply, makes it impossible for such gages or scarfs to pull open these joints either, but causes them rather to smooth down and compact the joints.

I prefer to make what I call the body ply to furnish the main strength that is needed by the welting, using the outer or surface -ply to give an attractive finish and appearance, besides performing the office above'de scribed in protecting the oints'of the body ply. By thus using two plies am able to reduce the cost of manufacture to less than that required for the single ply welts as heretofore made, besides producing asuperior article. I may use split leather for the body ply, which is much less expensive than grain leather of the thickness required for welting. This statement applies even to splits from the best part of the hide, of

which the leather is better and stronger than in those parts of the hide, namely the shoul- Welt strips are groovedand, beveled before being incorporated into shoes. In being operated upon to this end .ders, from which welting is usually taken. Thus one useful result of my invention is to permit the use of better leather than is commonly used for welting at less cost.

The outer or face ply b is of grain leather which is either so thin or is of such a grade or qualityof leather that it is much less ex penslve than grain leather having the full thickness of welting. Without intending to limit the invention in regard to the material too soft and too. stretchy; but when built into a welt strip'as a veneer to the body, it

1 has exactly thequalities required. It is sufficientlysoft to enable the stitches which attach the outer sole to sink deeply into it, and later to receive deeply the impressions of the fudge wheel or indenting wheel, which is later used to impress and hide thestitches. Indeed with the use of this material it is possible to concealsuch stitches. almost completely. Sheepskin has a good, grain and I presents a smooth glossy finished appearance:

, after the stitches of the outer seam have beenconcealed by the indentations of the fudge wheel. It is for the purpose ofthis appearance primarily that welting has heretofore always been made of grain leather, and for which I provide a grain leather face ply in my composite welting. VVelting used with the flesh side outward, or made from split leather from which the grain has been removed, is rough and furry, particularly after sewing of the outer seam and indenting itwith the fudge wheel, whereby shoes having such welts are not acceptable to, the

trade.

Another advantage of sheepskin for the purpose described is that it is so very flexible and stretchy that it can be sharply bent and greatly stretched, as in passing around the toes of sharply pointed shoes, without breaking or cracking; at the same time it is firm, whereby the welter, .whlch term designates the workman in shoe factories who applies.

welts to shoes, is able to accomplish his work more easily and rapidly. The face ply also strengthens the joints in the body ply and aids them to resist the tendency to open when bent, as at the toe of a shoe. It will be. 50.

observed, however, that although sheepskin is a highly desirable material. for the face ply of the welt, and is preferred for many purposes, it is not the only useful or available material.

My invention contemplates welting made from a body ply of split leather and a face ply of grain leather, of whatever grade or quality or kind the grain leather may be. Among other sources for the grain leather maybe named machine bufiing, which is a skiving, about as thick as heavy paper,

' which is removed from the grain side of lea'ther, preparatory to the use of the leather for various purposes. However I may use tures or constructions, the plies have been so arranged that the joints between the sections ,of one ply have come intermediate similar joints in the adjacent ply. I there fore do not claim as my invention the funda mental idea of a two ply welt strip. lVhat I do claim is the particular character of such strip having the purposes and useful qualities hereinbefore described, and embodying the characteristics pointed out in the appended claims.

(What I claim and desire to protect by Letters Patent therefore is:

1. Atwo ply welt strip consisting of a body ply of split leather in which the strength of the welt is mainly contained, and a face ply of grain leather united to the body ply on one surface only thereof.

2. A welt strip comprising a body ply and a face ply, the body ply being of material having great strength but lacking the grain surface of leather, and the face ply being of grain leather on its outer surface and being attached to the body ply on one surface only thereof.

3. A welt strip comprising a body ply and a face ply, the body ply being of material having great strength but lacking the grain surface of leather, and the face ply being of grainleather on its outer surface, each of said plies being composed of sections having their adjoining ends scarfed and lapped one over the other, such scarfed joints of the two plies being relatively oppositely inclined.

4. A welting comprising a body ply of a relatively strong split leather lacking grain surface, and a face ply of relatively-soft and ,fiexible leather having its grain surface, and

EDWARD OAKMAN HOOD.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. G,

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