US1164126A - Attachment for forming a french edge on velvet hats. - Google Patents

Description

F. L. SCRYMGEOUR.

ATTACHMENT FOR FORMING A FRENCH EDGE 0N VELVET HATS. APPLICATION FILED JULY 28. I915.

1,16%,126, Patented Dec. 14, 1915.

FEEL

FRANK L. SCRYMGEOUR, OF MANSFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS.

ATTACHMENT FOR FORMING A FRENCH EDGE ON VELVET HATS.

Application filed July 28, 1915.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, FRANK L. SCRYM- GEOUR, a citizen of the United States, residing at Mansfield, county of Bristol, State of Massachusetts, have invented a certain new and useful Improvement in Attachments for Forming a French Edge on Velvet Hats, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

The invention relates to a device for forming a so-called French edge or cigarette edge on velvet hats.

In the manufacture of velvet hats the rim is usually composed of three layers of fabric,-namely, a top and bottom layer of velvet and an intermediate layer of buckram or similar stiffening material, and frequently also the edge is wired. In the manufacture of the so-called French edge the upper layer of velvet and the in termediate layer of buckram are cut back for a short distance from the edge of the lower layer of velvet all the way around so that the lower layer of velvet projects out beyond the upper layer of velvet and the buckram for a sufficient distance. say perhaps about five-siXteenths of an inch, so that when the wire is laid upon the upper surface of the velvet near the edge, the said projecting portion or flange of the lower layer of velvet may be rolled over around the wire to form a head. It is usual to apply an adhesive to the wire and to the upper face of said projecting rim of velvet before the velvet is rolled around the wire so that when the velvet is rolled about the wire the two adhesive surfaces will come together and firmly cement the wire and the velvet together. In order to make a more nicely finished edge it is important that when the said flange of velvet is rolled over around the wire the edge shall be turned in under the wire so that the edge will be out of sight and make a more finished appearance to the roll. It is diflicult and expensive to do this by hand and it is also expensive to make a complete machine especially for that purpose.

The object of the present invention is to provide a device by which the folded flange of velvet will be properly rolled around the wire and tucked in and it is also the object of the invention to provide a device of such a character that it can be readily attached Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Dec. 1%, 1915.

Serial No. 42,405.

to an ordinary hat sewing machine, such for instance as a \Vilcox and Gibbs, or any one of a number of other makes of sewing machines on the market, and thereby to utilize a machine already on hand which when desired can be used as a sewing machine and which is readily adapted for use to form the French edge and, in which also the sewing machine feed will be utilized to feed the hat while forming the French edge.

The invention will be fully understood from the following description when taken in connection with the accompanying drawings and the novel features thereof will be pointed out and clearly defined in the claims at the close of this specification.

In the drawings,Figure 1 is a side elevation of a device embodying the invention attached to the foot bar of a sewing machine of the Wilcox and Gibbs type, the needle bar being removed and portions of the machine being broken away which are not necessary to illustrate the invention. Fig. 2 is a side elevation ofthe device embodying the invention detached from the machine. Fig. 3 is a plan view of a portion of a hat brim showing the wire in place and a portion of the flange of the lower layer of velvet turned over as it should be before application to the machine, a portion of the velvet flange being shown as it is before it is doubled over in order to show the location of the wire. Fig. 4 is a section enlarged on line ftl: of Fig. 3. Fig. 5 is a plan view of a portion of a hat brim and of the device embodying the invention applied thereto as in operation, the machine being omitted. Fig. 6 is a section on line 66 of Fig. 5 showing the position of the parts in the operation of forming the French edge. Fig. 7 is a plan view on an enlarged scale of the toothed grooved wheel which engages and tucks in the velvet around the wire.

Referring now to the drawings, the body of the device, which may be of a single block of metal, has a head portion 1, and a foot portion 2 which is curled up at the end forming an overhanging arm 3 which has a slot 4 whereby it may be connected with the foot bar 5 of a sewing machine. The foot bar 5 passes through the slot 4: and the device is secured to the foot bar by a nut 6 and washer 7 in the same way that the foot of a sewing machine is connected with the foot bar. In side elevation view the part thus far described closely resembles the foot of a sewing machine. The head 1 is under cut so that the foot portion 2 projects down lower than the under side of the head 1.

A grooved roll 10 is mounted on a pin 8 which extends up through the head 1 of the device. Said pin is secured and clamped therein by a set screw 9, said roll 10 having a. groove 11 which is somewhat like the groove of a pulley wheel, and which is of suflicient diameter to receive the wire with its velvet covering. The thin flange 12 which forms the lower end of the roll is preferably toothed on its periphery as clearly shown in Fig. 7, and the lower face of this flange should preferably be at substantially the same level as the lower face of the foot 2. Secured to the upper side of the head 1 is a spring presser member 13 whose under face is also on about the same level as the lower face of the flange 12 of the grooved roll. The under face of the foot 2 is formed with a longitudinal groove 19 to afford clearance for the covered wire.

When the device is attached to a sewing machine as in Fig. 1, the needle bar should be removed as it is not used in the wiring operation and it would extend down into the way of the tucking device during the operation of the machine. The feed 14: is the "toothed feed of the sewing machine of ordinary form and is actuated in well known manner which does not require description.

The brim of the hat to be wired has three layers of fabric, as already mentioned, and as shown in Figs. 3, 4c and 6, namely, a bot tom layer 15 of velvet, a top layer 16 of velvet and an intermediate layer 17 of buckram. The top. layer of velvet 16 and the layer of buckram 17 are both cut back for a short distance as clearlv shown in Fig. 3 exposing a flange portion of the lower layer of velvet 15 which extends all around the rim. Cement is applied to the upper face of this exposed portion, then the wire 18 is put in position on top of the upper layer of velvet, near the edge, and extending entirely around the rim and is also treated with cement. Then the flange of the lower layer of velvet 15 is by hand or by other suitable means turned over the wire as shown in Fig. 4. In Fig. 3 it is shown turned over part way of its length but it should be turned over all the way around before starting it in the machine. The cement will temporarily hold it in thisposition until the grooved tucker acts upon it. The meeting ends of the wire are clasped together as shown in Fig. 5 at 20, to more surely hold the ends from spreading apart. The hat is then ready to be introduced into the machine as shown in Fig. 6,

positioning it in such manner that the flange 12 of the roller 10 will engage the turned over portion of the flange of the lower layer layer of velvet 15 all the way around the hat. The roll 10 is revoluble on the pin 8. A grooved stationary guide might be employed, but it is better to have the guide in form of a roll or wheel and revoluble.

llhat I claim is:

1. An attachment for a machine for tucking in the covering of the edge wire ofa hat brim comprising a body portion, and a peripherally grooved roller mounted thereon,

the axis of the roller being perpendicular to g the plane of the feed, the groove of-said roller being adapted to receive the covered wire, said roller having a flange'which is adapted to engage the turned over portion of the covering for the wire and tuck it in under the wire.

2. An attachment for a machine for tucking in the covering of the edge wire of a hat brim, said attachment comprising a body portion, and a grooved roller mounted thereon, the axis of rotation of the roller being perpendicular to the plane of the feed of the hat brim, the roller being formed with a circumferential groove which is adapted to receive the covered wire, said roller ha"- ing a flange which forms the lower edge of the groove and is adapted to engage the turned over portion of the covering for the wire and tuck it in under the wire, said device being formed with a foot whereby it may be attached to a machine. 7

3. An attachment for a machine for tucking in the covering of the edge wire of a hat brim comprising a body portion, a grooved roller mounted thereon, the groove of said roller being adapted to receive the covered wire, said roller having a flange which is adapted to engage the turned over portion of the covering and tuck it under the wire, said device being formed with a foot portion whereby it may be attached to a machine, and a spring presser member secured to the body of said device in a position to engage the turned over portion of the covering in advance of the engagement of the said roll with the said wire and its covering.

4:. An attachment for a machine for tucking in the covering of the edge wire of a hat brim, said attachment comprising a body portion, and a grooved roller mounted thereon, the groove of said roller being adapted to receive the covered wire, said roller having a flange which is adapted to engage the turned over portion of the covering for the Wire and tuck it in under the brim, said attachment comprising a body portion, and a peripherally grooved roller mounted thereon, the axis of the roller being perpendicular tothe plane oftravel of the hat brim, the groove'of saidv roller being adapted to receive the covered wire, said 'roller having aflange parallel with the plane of travel of the hat brim which is adapted to engage the turned over portion of the'covering for the wire and tuck it in under the W128.

6. In combination with a machine having a foot bar and a rteed, an attachmentioi" tucking 1n the covering oi the edgewire of a hat brim, said attachment comprising a body portion, and peripherally grooved roller mounted thereon, the axis of the roller being vertical and the groove of said roller being adapted toreceive the covered wire, said roller having a peripheral flange borderingthelower side of the groove which is adapted to engage the turned over portion of the covering for the wire and tuck it'in under the wire.

7. In combination with a foot bar and feed of a sewing machine, an attachment for forming a French edge on a velvet hat, said attachment comprising a body portion having a foot constructed and arranged for attachment to said foot bar, and a peripherally grooved roller mounted on said body portion the axis of the roller'being perpendicular to the plane of travel of the hat brim, said roller having a horizontal flange at the lower end and being sopo sitioned that the groove of said roller is adapted'to receive the wire and its covering of velvet,

and said flange being adapted to engage and tuck the edge of the velvet beneath the wire while the hat is being moved by the feed.

8. In combination with a foot bar and feed of a sewing machine, an attachment for forming a French edge on a velvet hat, said attachment comprising a body portion havinga foot constructed and arranged for attachment to said foot bar, a grooved roller mounted on said body portion, said roller having a flange at one end and being so positioned that the groove of said roller is adapted to receive the wire and its covering of velvet, and said flange being adapted to engage and tuck the .edge of the velvet beneath the wire while the hat is being moved by the feed, and a spring presser member mounted on said body which engages the turned over portion of the hat brim in ad Vance of the engagement of the grooved roll with the wire.

9. In combination with a machine having a cloth feed, and a foot bar, an attachment for tucking in under the wire of a hat brim the turned over edge of the brim, said attachment comprising a body portion, a foot portion having a toe turned up and then backward and slotted for attachment to the foot bar, and a grooved roll revolubly mounted on a vertical axis on the under side of said body,'said roll having a circumferential groove and a thin horizontal flange on the under side which engages with a turned over edge of the hat brim and tucks it in under the wire while the hat is being moved by the said feed.

10. In combination with a machine having a cloth feed, and a foot bar, an attachment for tucking in under the wire oi a hat brim the turned over edge of the brim, said attachment comprising a body portion, a

footportion constructed for attachment to the foot bar, and a grooved roll revolubly mounted on a vertical axis on the under side of said body, said roll having a circumferential groove and a thin horizontal flange on the under side which engages with a turned over edge of the hat brim and tucks it in under the wire while the hat is being moved by the said feed, said flange for the roller being formed with teeth in its periphery.

11. In combination with a machine having a cloth feed, and a foot bar, an attachment for tucking in under the wire of a hat brim the turned over edge oi the brim, said attachment comprising a body portion, a foot portion constructed for attachment to the foot bar, a grooved roll revolubly mounted on the under side of said body, said roll having a circumferential groove and a thin flange on the under side which engages with a turned over edge of the hat brim and tucks it in under the wire while the hat is being moved by the said feed, said flange for the roller being formed with teeth in its periphery, and a spring presser secured to said body in a position to engage the hat brim in advance of its engagement by the said grooved roll.

12. A device to be attached to a machine for covering the edge wire of a hat brim, said device comprising a body portion, a roller rotatively mounted on the under side of said body on a vertical stud, said roller being formed with a. circumferential groove adapted to receive the covered wire, a horizontal flange on the lower end of said roll r, a presser member secured to said body and extending rearwardly tiereof and having a horizontal base portion which is in the same plane as the flangeof said roller, and a forwardly extending foot portion attached to said body, the bottom of said foot being in the same horizontal plane as said flange.

Incombination with a 'machine having afoot bar, and a feed5'an attachment for tucking -1n .the covering of the edge wire of a hatgbrim, said attachment comprlsing a body portion, a roller rotatablymounted on the under side of said body on a vertical stud, said roller being formed with a circumferential groove adapted to receivethe covered wire, a horizontal flange on the lowerend of said roller, a presser member secured to said body and extendlng rearwardly thereof and having a horizontal base portion which isin the same plane as the flange of said roller, and a forwardly extending foot portion attached to said body, the bottom of said, foot being in the same horizontal plane as said flange.

ll. In combination with a machine having afoot bar, an attachment to the foot bar for tucking 1n the covering of the edge wire of a hat brim, sald attachment com- 7 prising a body portion, a roller rotatably mounted on the under sideof said body and rotatable on a vertical axis, said roller beinguiormed with a circumferential groove, a horizontal circular flange on the lower end of said roller, and a feed located and movable in a plane parallel with and below the said flange on the roller.

15. In combination with a machine having a foot bar, an attachment for said foot bar, said attachment comprising a body portion, a roller rotatably mounted on the underside of said body and rotatable on a vertical axis, said roller being formed with a circumferential groove, a horizontal circular flange onjthe lower end of said roller, said flange being formed with teeth in its Copies of this patent may be obtained for -periphery and means fforattaching said deviceto said footbar 16. In combination with a; machine hav ing foot bar, an attachment for; said foot bar, said attachment comprising a body portion, a roller rotatably mounted on the under side of :said body'and rotatableon a ver-' tical .axls, said" roller be ng formed vnth a said ed roll. a

17. In combination with av maehine havmg a foot bar, an attachment for said foot bar for tucking in the covering "of the edge wire of a hat brim, said attachment compris 1" ing a body portion having a horizontal;

groove in one side thereof to receive and.

guide the covered wire, a' horizontal flange 'below said groove. adapted to -engage and tuck in the coveringof the-wire, a presser member in the rear of said fljange, a foot front of said flange, the bottom of sa d presser member, saidilange and said foot all being in substantially the same horizontal plane and a feed movable in a plane below and parallel with the plane of the bot tom of said flange.

In testimony whereof in presence of two w1tnesses V Witnesses 7 lVILLIAM A. COPELAND, LUCY F. COPELAND.

I aflilx mysignature,

FRANK L. sGR MGEOURY five cents each, by addressing the flo'lnmission er of Patents, Washington, I). G.

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