US1147486A - Sewing-machine. - Google Patents

Description

C. A. DEARBORN.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED 050.15.1914.

Patented July 20, 1915.

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c. DEARBORN. SEWING MACHINE. I APPLICATION FILED DEC-{15' 19M.

Patented July 20, 1915.

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UWIVILIHIHIH'VII 6. A. DEARBORNL SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATIdN map DEC. 15. 1914,

1,147,486.. Pa tentedJuly 20,1915." I

5 SHEETS'SHEET 3v.

c. A. DEARBORN." SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION HLEb m-zc. 15.1914. 1,147,46. Patented July 20,1915.

5-SHEETS-SHEET51 a citizen of the United States, residing in the CHARLESA. DEAR/BORN, OF NEW YORK, i i-Y,

SEWING-MACHINE. i ii Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented July 20,1915.

Application filed December 15, 1914. Serial No. 877,339.

' To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, CHARLES A. DEARBORN,

borough of Manhattan, city, county, and State of New York, have invented certain new and'useful Improvements in Sewing-5' Machines, of which the following is a full and clear specification.

The present invention is an improvement upon the machinecovered by an application filed by me on October 7th, 1914, Serial No. 865,514, and in common with the machine of said application, hasfor its primary pur-' pose the sewing of what are commonly known as turned seams, such as are formed upon the finished edges of coats and other garments. a v v In the preparation of a turned seam, as

heretofore commonly practised, the tailor manipulates the seam edge of the work by bending and rolling it'back and forth between his thumb and fingers, while pressing upon the seam to bring the turned seam outwardly as near as possible to the turned back edges of the upper and lower layers of cloth,-

and while holding the manipulated work he bastes it along the turned edges preparatory to the final stitching operation.

The'machine of the present invention is designed to rapidly and accurately perform the same work as that heretofore done entirely by hand. In accomplishing the desired result, I provide a sewing machine having the customary stitch forming and feeding mechanisms with a pair of cloth engaging plates or fingers disposed so as to engage the work above and below. and provided with operating mechanism for rapidly reciproeating them transversely of the line of feed, while in engagement with the ,work to cause rolled back and forth upon'theturned seam 1 and-be gradually "worked awayfrom the :seam which will be presented at: the extreme edge, of the turned upper and lower layers. In the preferred embodiment of the inven tion,'I have arranged the operating mechafnism so as toiimp art to the cloth engaging plates or fingers,-a plurality-of quick recip- Li rocating-movements for each penetration of the needle in the sewing operation, the cloth being manipulated-during the action of the feed as well' ias during the penetration ofthc needle. i 'my invention may be'--f ully understood I, will first-describe the same In order that V journaled in the ha with reference to the accompanying drawin'gs, and afterward point out the novelty more particularly in the annexed claims.

In sald drawings, Figure I-ishjfront ele-' 'vation of my improved sewing" machine; thesame.

55 and 6 6 of Fig.4. Fig. 7,,is an err-.-

larged' detail, horizontal, sectional'yiew, and

Fig. 8 is an enlarged detail, front lelevation.

of the eccentric operatingm'echani'smof said work manipulating jaws or:- fing er's', Fig. 9

is a detail perspective view of af'fpiece of work, such as performed by the improved machine. Fig. 1.0 is a detail view of a slight modification.

The machine is built upon any suitable frame, such as shown in which 1 is a base and 2the usual sewing machine arm, extending-up from the base. Journaled in the arm 2 and in the usual bearing standards upon the base -1, is the main shaft 5 which extends horizontally and longitudinally through the machine and is provided at one .endwith the fly wheel 6 and-the main driving pulley '7. At .thelopposite end of the shaft 5 is mounted a rotary hook (not shown) v of theordinary stitch-forming mechanism, or, if preferred, the ordinary rotary shuttle of well known form may be suitably mounted upon the shaft 5. y l

lOis a common form of ,needle barcarrying the usual needle 11, operating in bearingslQ of the arm 2, and actuzited by the usual rockeilever 13, journaled upon the arm-2 at 14, and driven by the eccentric link 'mechanism actuated by the eccentric 16 upon the shaft5. I

20 i'sa cloth supporting plate of any shitable design, rigidly mounted upon one of the bearing standards of the machine frame.

25 is theusual feed dog operating in the slots of the cloth supporting pl teau and .rlgidlymounted at 2t) upon the horizontal rocker arm 27, which is journaled upon bearing pin ZS carried in t g' i ipe-lyeml of the vertical rocker 111111329. Mn l till'lithf at its lower end the bearing pix .30 suitably se fra-lne of'tl inzu-hinc. The forward and back movement of rnglwr arm 29.1w: effected by means occ'cntrio 35 upon shaft?) and eccentric link 36 v Operating upon the eccentric and pivoted at its opposite end upon the ournal pin 28. Up and down movements of rocker arm 27 are effected by'the cam 40 on shaft 5 "and the .arm 41 projecting from rocker arm 27 and resting upon the cam -10.

45 isv the usual spring actuated presser foot mounted upon the vertical rod 16, which has bearings in the sewing machine frame arm and is actuatedand controlled to cooperate with the work supporting plate and feed dog in the usual manner.

Thestitch-forming and feeding mechanisms above described are of the common construction in sewing machines in general use today. Their specific form is not essential to the present invention but they are described only as illustrating the principles of the necessary elements of the 1m-. proved machine. the novelty m which comprises the. combination with suitable work feeding and stitch-forming mechanisms of devices for engaging the upper and lower layers of work adjacent to a turned seam and manipulating the work to roll the layers back and forth upon the seam to cause the seam to be brought as closely as possible into alinement with theturned edges of the work. I

is a forward section or extension of the cloth supporting plate .mounted upon a bracket arm .51, which extends up from the base 1 of the. machine frame. This plate section 50 is separated from the main cloth supporting plate QOto form a space in the plane of feed for the operation of the cloth manipulating plates or fingers which will now be described.

is a bracket horn projecting up from the base 1 of the machine frame between the I feed plates 20 and 50 and upon the inner side of the line offeed.

beneath the plane of feed-1T he forward face of the horn and head 56 constie tutes a guide surface for thetransversely reciprocating clot-h manlpulatmgplates or fingers.

60 and 61 are the cloth manipulating plates extending longitudinally of. the, ma-

chine at the front. These plates 60 and 61 are supported with. their vertical faces adjacent to their jaw endsv against the guide frontface of the horn-55 and head The winder plate. 60 is formed .at its outer end with a horizontal .cloth engaging ]flW: 65,

-. .toreiceivezan antiefriction roll 67.;supported vwhose cloth engaging surface is ribbed or serrated as shown at' 65 A horizontal slot uponia pin, .68.,which is mounted in an .opening, 69.of thehead. 56. This plate 60 reciprocates transyersely' of the line of feed upon the-anti-friction roller 67.

This bracket horn. 55 has a head or enlargement 56. pro ecting j 63 of plate .61.

A guide plate, shaped to correspond with the horn 55 and head 56 is secured to the horn and head by means of pins 68 and 75, the heads 68 and of said pins engaging the guide plate 70 forholding it in place. and said pins entering the openings 69 of head 56 and '76 of horn55 and being held .therein by set screws 77 and 78. I prefer to employ the cylindrical pins (38 and 75 held by set screws 77 and 7 8 for securing the guide plate 70 in place, since by these means I am able to secure the plate 70 in the exact position desired for confining and guiding the plate 60 in proper position. without danger of binding a it too ClOSQl against the'plate. By these means there is less chance of an unskilled operator destroying the adjustment of the guiding plate 70 as would possibly happen were ordinary set screws employed for securing the plate 70 in place.

The cloth engaging plate 61v is formed at its free end with a horizontal jaw 62 which is presented above the plane of feed in operative relation to the under jaw of plate 60. The cloth engaging face of the jaw 62 is formed with ribs or serrations 62 similar to those of the jaw 65. The ribs or ser rations of the two cloth engaging jaws extend approximately parallel with the line of feed, but in some cases I have found it desirable to form 'them on a slight angle to the line of feed to give a slight stretching action to the upper and lower layers of cloth away from the line offseam during the moments that the jaws are in engagement with the cloth, while the feed is taking place. This inclination ofthe ribs of the cloth engaging jaws to the line of feed is illustrated ,in Fig. 10 of th e'drawings.

80 is a limit pin formed with eccentric heads 81and 82'at its inner and outer ends. .The eccentric. heads of this limit pin rest in the circular recess 83 of born 55 and circular opening 8& of the guide plate 70. so as to support thecentralbearing portion of 'the pin between horn 55 and plate 70 in'position to engage the horizontal guide edge The pin 80 supports the plate 61 in its reciprocating movements in proper relation to the lower plate '60 when there is no work in the machine. The pin 81 has a niche 85 in'i'ts outer end by means ofwhich it can be turned in its support to raise or lower the central bearing portion of the pin so as to. present cloth engaging jaw 62farther away or closer to the cloth engaging jaw 65. This adjustment-is not essen- The plates 60 and 61 have, adjacent to J 9 collar 110. In the rotation of the the jaws 62 i I to suit the their jaw ends, rearwardly presented lugs 90 and 91, which are connected by a contractile spring 95 which yieldingly holds and 65 together, and allows the 62 to automatically adjust itself thickness of the work presented between the jaws.

The cloth manipulating plates 60 and 61 upper aw are provided at their inner ends with eccenitric drivlng mechanism for impartlng to them rapid reciprocating movements in opposite directions. The preferred form of such eccentric operating mechanism is illus- '60is formed at its trated in the drawings and shown in particular detail in Figs. 7 -and 8. The plate 'n'ner end with an integral circular strap or ring 100, which rests upon a cylindrical collar 101 against an ancentric 105 nular flange 102, to which it is-secured by a hexagonal nut 103, screwed upon the threaded portion 104 of the collar 101. This collar 101 encircles and operates upon an ecsecured to a shaft 106 freely jou'rnaled in the horizontal bearing 107 of the machine frame. A pin 108 passes through the eccentric 105 and shaft 106 for securing the eccentric in place upon the shaft, the collar 101 extending over the pin 108, so as to-prevent its accidental displacement. The collar placement upon the eccentric 105 by an outer I centric, then the ed upon the shaft and the outer member mountedupon'its eccentric and the whole mechanism secured in place by the outer collar 110, mounted upon the 106 and secured by 0nd eccentric 115,

end of shaft a setscrew 111.

- Formed integrally with the eccentric 105 and ofi'set therefrom diametrically, is a secupon which is mounted a collar 116, formed with an annular flange 117 and secured upon this collar.116 is the strap or ring 120 formed integral with the inner end of the upper cloth manipulating plate 61. A nut 121 confines the ring 120 against the flange 117 of collar 116. In as-, sembling the eccentric operating mechanism jilst described, it will be observed that the inner member is first mounted upon its ecdouble eccentric is mountshaft 106 the connected eccentrics 105 and 115 rotate in the ringslOO and 1200f plates 60 and 61,

Y to cause said plates It will be understood that the main driv-Q auxiliary driving pul ing pulley 7 and 125 are so proportioned with regard ower mecha ism, that operates them, L the shaft 106 will be driven much more idly than the main shaft 5 of the mac n I have found in demonstrating my im Jve that anachine that excellent results: p ii @91 i a i byoperatmg the shaft 91 06 ing mechanism whil The machineof 101 is held against dishis scam in place is pi'es'ented in he machine wlth the upper and l'qw' r; lay 'lfof cloth turned into approximately the j 're d position. The machineisffst artedW" engaged by the feedin and by the cloth, ailiplila-tin jfii A the work is fed in o "the machinegfthe jaws 62 and 65 rapidly" ove backfandforth upon the upper and lowe layers of'cloth' to effect a rolling of the "ork upon thei seam. In practice I find'it; es'irable't iih art about 4 of these rolling 'ove ing stroke and abo ti f mo're' movements during' the" pe let needle. This roll i go f tl" the se in causes [the cloth t from he seami and; in in lin with the oi xp os of the upper andjlowe sition he work ishe echanism designed for the)" the machine of my appl' v eferred to, Serial- No. 865,5 common principleuinv olv A m mach nes'in that both efl'ect the Sp g upper and lower layers of ti} 'a fromh the seam, soa s to bring the! oselyj'as possible to the folded edges ofthelayers of cloth. Aside from these ,v feat ures,however, which are common to both, achines,,there is an important novel principled involved, in the machineoffjmyprese t happlication, in that thejcl' oth"engaging members of the present machine effect a ,rolling of the work upon the tiii'ned seamlmeffectingilie desired result. 1;;

I claim: a machine 5. stitching 1. In a'sewing p5 turned seams, the combination with suitable work feeding mechanism, and suitable stitchformingmechan' f QilIlSwildilPted to engage theturned ayer material and roll each-of saidlayerstbac and forth upon the seamrli pppsit directions for the purpose; 1th.; {gn- I 2. In a sewing achine fonfstitching turned seams, the com nation .itli suitable work feedi gfmehanism,

ofth e. can be I work feeding mechanism, and suitable stitch forming mechanism, of ,means adapted to' engage the turned layers ofmaterialabove and below and roll the same back and forth upon the seam line in opposite'directions during the feeding operation.

4. In a sewing machine for stitching turned seams, the combination with suitable work feeding mechanism, and suitable stitch 1 forming mechanism, of means adapted to j engage the turned. layers of material above and below and roll the turned layers back and forth upon the seam line in'opp osite '(llI'GCtlOIlS during the operation of the stitchforming mechanism.

5. In a sewing machine for stitching turned seams, the combination with suitable work feeding mechanism and suitable stitch forming mechanism, of apair of oppositely acting clothengaging members engaging the work above and below theplane of feed adjacent to the seam line and means for re-v ciprocating said members transversely of the line offeed in opposed directions. I

6. In a sewing machine for stitching turned seams, the combination with suitable work feeding mechanism and suitable stitch forming mechanism, of a pair ofopposi-tely acting cloth engaging members engaging the work above and below the plane of feed adjacent to the seam line means forrelatively adjusting said members, and means for operating said members in opposed directions.

7.1 In a sewing machine for stitching turn ed seams, the combination with suitable,

work feeding mechanism, and suitable stitch forming mechanism, of apa irof cloth engaging members movable transversely of the line of feed and engaging the work above and below the plane of feed, yielding means maintaining the operative relation of said cloth engaging rm'embers, and operating means for oppositely reciprocating said cloth engaging members in opposite directions.

8. In a sewing machine for stitching turned seams, the combination. with suitable work feeding mechanism, and suitable stitch formmg mechanism, of a pan of cloth ena in members movable transversely of the C b.

line of feed and engaging the work above :andbelow the plane-of feed, a spring yieldingl'y maintaining the ope-rative relation of said cloth engaging me nbers, means for rel- --atively -,adj1 sting; @sa'id; Jmembers, and operatm'g;

ITGtIIlSiiifQI oppositely reciprocating said-wclothnerigaging members to, roll the I turned seams, the,

work vback audio 9. In" asewinrt -htupon; the seam-line;

v or stitching 1th suitable work; vfeeding mecha a1 and su forming mechanism, of a p an 'ploth 'en ,ae apted to engage the work abovefand below the; of feed, means f uidin stea j an angle toth'e direction means for reciprocating said jaws transversely of the lineof feed in opposed directions.

V 10. In a sewing machine for stitching turned seams, the combination with suitable wor I feeding mechanism and suitable stitch forming mechanism, .of a guiding horn arranged adjacent to the line of feed, a pair of cloth engaging plates operating in contact with said guiding horn, and formed with cloth engaging jaws, means for coinining said plates upon said horn, andmeans for reciprocating said plates-in opposite directions.

' 11. In a sewing machine forv stitching turned seams, the combination with a suitable frame, work feeding.mechanism, and stitch forming mechanism, of a guiding horn projecting from saidframe adjacent to the vline of feed, a lower. clothengaging plate formed with a work engaging jaw, a guide upon said horn engaging said lower plate for supporting its jaw beneath the plane of feed, an upper cloth engaging plate formed with a aw, a guide upon said horn engaging said upper plate for presenting the jaw of the upper plate in operative relation to the jaw of the lower plate, a spring acting upon said upper plate for yieldingly holding it in position, and means forreciprocating said plates in opposite directions.

12. In a sewing machine, thecombination with a suitable frame, work feeding mechanism and stitch forming mechanism, of a guide horn mounted upon said frame adj acent to the line of feed, a pair of'cloth en, gaging members guiding upon said horn and adapted to engage the work above and below the plane of feed, a guide plate removablv attached to said horn for confining said members in operative position, means for relatively adjusting said cloth engaging members, and means 'for' operating said members. I

1 3.In a sewing machine for. stitching turned seams, the combination-with a suitable frame, work feeding mechanism, and stitch forming mechanism, of a pair of cloth engaging plates movable transversely of the line of 'feed and engaging th'e"workiabove and below the plane of feed,.a guiding horn mounted upon said frame for supporting said members adjacent to the work. and eccentric driving mechanism acting upon said members for reciprocating them in engage ment'with the work.

. turned seams, the combination with suitable work feeding mechanism and suitable stitch I forming mechanism, of a pair of cloth-eni tz ble. stitch Y W jof feed and engaging the work above and below the plane of feed, said jaws being gaging jaws movable transversely of the line forinediwith ribs or serrations extending at of feed, and means for reciprocating said jaws in engagement with the work. Q

15. In a sewing machine for stitching turned seams, the combination with suitable workfeeding mechanism and Suitable stitch' forming mechanism, of a pair of itransversely reciprocating plates having cloth. en-

' trio ends resting in sockets in the machine frame and means for operating said plates.

16. In a sewing, machine for stitching turned seams, the combination with suitable Work feeding mechanism and suitable stitch forming mechanism, of a pair ofoppositely "acting cloth engaging members movable transversel of the line of feed and engaging the work a ove and below the plane of feed, I a main operating mechanism for the work' mechanism, and an auxiliary operating mechanism for saidclothengaging members,

feeding mechanism and stitch forming. 1

said main and auxiliary operating mecha- I nisms being arranged to impart a plurality v of active-movements to the cloth engaging members for each complete feeding and 30 stitch forming operation.

iCI-IARLES A; DEARBQRN. Witnesses:

WM. E. KNIGHT, WM. A OOURTLAND.

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