US1069992A - Welt-attaching machine. - Google Patents

Description

J. V. ALLEN & P. E. BERTRAND.

WELT ATTACHING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 26, 1910.

Patented Aug. 12, 1913.

3 SHEBTSSHEET l.

J. V. ALLEN & F. E. BERTRAND.

WELT ATTAGHING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 26, 1910.

Patented Aug. 12, 1913.

3 SHEETSSHEET 2.

J. V. ALLEN & F. E. BERTRAND.

WELT ATTAGHING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 26, 1910.

1,069,992, Patented Aug. 12, 1913.

' 3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

' J as a? 50 ITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JOHN V. ALLEN, OF SOUTH WEYMOUTH, AND FREDERIC E. IBERTRAND, OF SWAMP- SCOTT, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNORS TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF IPATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

WELT-ATTACHING MACHINE.

Application filed March 26, 1910.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, JOHN V. ALLEN, of South VVeymouth, in the county of Norfolk, and FREDERIG E. BERTRAND, of Swampscott, in the county of Essex, both in the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, citizens of the United States, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Volt-Attaching Machines; and we do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

The invention relates to machines for attaching welts to shoes, and more particularly to a welt guiding and feeding mechanism which is well adapted for use upon sewing machines such as are employed in securing together the welt, upper and insole of welt shoes.

The invention is intended primarily as an improvement in the well known Goodyear welt and turn sewing machine, although it is not limited in its application to such machine, but may be embodied with advantage in other types of machines for sewing or otherwise securing welts to shoes.

Volt sewing machines as heretofore constructed have usually been provided with a welt guide arranged to hold the welt against the shoe close to the point of operation of the stitch forming devices. These guides are constructed to allow the welt to move freely through them during the feed of the shoe, or during the return stroke of the welt guide, in case the guide is mounted to move with the shoe during its feed. The welt is therefore liable to be drawn away from the upper during the return or loop drawing stroke of the needle, so that increased tension or strain must be put upon the thread in drawing together the welt, upper and insole. It is one of the objects of the present invention to avoid this objectionable action of the needle or loop carried thereby upon the welt. One feature of the invention accordingly contemplates the provision in a machine for attaching welts to shoes of means for gripping and holding the welt against forward movement through the welt guide. Any suitable means may be employed for thus gripping and holding the welt. In the simplest and most efficient form of the invention which we have de- Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Aug. 12,1913.

Serial No. 551,666.

vised, however, the welt guide is constructed and actuated to intermittently grip and release the welt, the guide being actuated to grip the welt during the return or loop drawing stroke of the needle, so that the welt is firmly held against movement away from the shoe.

It is customary to so shape the welt guide of welt sewing machines that the inner edge of the welt is bent to lie snugly against the upper along the outer edge of the sole of the shoe.

A further object of the invention is to provide means for causing the edge of the welt to more closely conform to the shape of the edge of the sole, so that the welt and upper may more readily be drawn tightly against the marginal portion of the sole, and thus a tighter seam be sewed.

A further feature of the invention accordingly contemplates the provision in a machine for sewing or otherwise attaching a welt to a shoe, of means for molding the welt and holding it against the shoe. For the sake of simplicity in the construction, and in order to minimize the number of parts required, we prefer to so construct the welt guide that it will operate to mold the welt when actuated to intermittently grip and release it.

A further object of the invention is to provide an improved means for feeding the shoe to secure the progressive attachment of the welt thereto.

A further feature of the invention accordingly contemplates actuating the welt guide to intermittently grip and advance the welt and the shoe to which it is attached. By thus feeding the shoe we are enabled to eliminate from the machine the feed point or awl which is usually employed for feeding the shoe, and which operates in the channel in advance of the channel guide, and interferes more or less with the swinging of the shoe in operating upon shoes having pointed toes. In case the feed point is retained, as may be found desirable upon some classes of work, the intermittent gripping and fgeding of the work relieves the strain upon the feed point, and results in a more accurate and uniform feeding of the work.

The forward feeding of the welt and shoe by engagement with the welt back of the point of attachment to the shoe, also results in a slight looping or bending of the welt between its point of attachment to the shoe and the point where it is gripped by the welt guide, so that the inner edge of the Welt is looped or puckered somewhat between successive needle holes. This is of .advantage, especially in sewing around the toe and other points of curvature along the edge of the sole.

In the simplest and most eificient construction embodying all the various features of the invention which we have yet devised, the welt guide is formed in two parts, which are constructed and actuated to intermittently grip and mold the welt and hold it firmly against the shoe during the operation of the stitch forming devices, to then release the welt and move in a direc tion opposite to that of the feed, and to then again grip and compress the welt and feed it and the shoe, preparatory to the next operation of the stitch forming devices. It will be understood, however, that it is not essential to the features relating to the gripping and holding of the welt, that the welt should be molded or that the feed should be effected by gripping and feeding the welt, and that it is not essential to the features relating to the molding of the welt that the feed should be effected by gripping and feeding the welt, although it is preferred to employ a construction embodying all these features.

The various features of the invention will be readily understood from an inspection of the accompanying drawings, and the following detailed description of the machine illustrated therein.

In the drawings Figure l is an end elevation showing the well known Goodyear turn and welt machine provided with a welt guiding and feeding mechanism em-' bodying all the various features of the pres ent invention in their preferred form; Fig. 2 is a front elevation of the mechanism shown in Fig. 1; Fig. 8 is an end elevation partly in section showing the parts illustrated in Fig. 1 on a larger scale; Fig. 4: is a detail view of the channel guide; Fig. 5 is a horizontal sectional view on line 5 5, Fig. 3; Fig. 6 is a detail of the welt guide actuating mechanism; Fig. 7 is a sectional detail on line 77, Fig. 5; Fig. 8 is a detail View of the welt guide with the parts in position to grip and mold the welt; and Fig. 9 is a detail of the front part or section of the welt guide.

The machine shown is provided with stitch forming devices similar in construction and mode of operation to the stitch forming devices of the Goodyear welt and turn machine above referred to, the curved hook needle of the stitch forming devices being indicated at 1, and the cooperating devices being omitted for the sake of clearness.

- attached. prises a rear section and a front section arranged to embrace and support the welt.

The machine is also provided with a back rest 2 similar to the back rest of the Goodyear machine, and with a channel guide 3. The channel guide is secured to the lower end of a carrier lever 4 which is mounted on a fixed pivot 5, and is operated to move the channel guide toward and from the bottom of the channel, by a cam (3 operating upon a roll 7 at the upper end of the lever. The roll is held in engagement with the cam by a spring 8.

The welt guide is formed in two parts, which are moved toward and from each other to grip and release the welt, and are reciprocated bodily to intermittently advance the welt and the shoe to which it is As shown, the welt guide com- The rear section comprises an upper plate 9 formed on the lower end of a lever 10,

and a plate 11, provided with a shoulder 12 for engaging the edge of the welt, and with a projecting lip 13 for underlying the welt.

The plate 11 is adjustably secured upon the plate 9 so that its position may be varied in accordance with the width of the welt being used. The front section of the welt guide comprises a curved plate 14 formed on the end of an arm 15 carried by a lever 16. The

g arm 15 is provided with a shank 17 which fits a split socket formed in the lower end of the lever 16. The arm 15 may be adjusted vertically to bring the plate lat into proper relation to the rear section of the welt guide, and is held in adjusted position by a clamping bolt 18. The front end of the upper plate 9 of the rear sect-ion of the welt holder is shaped and arranged to enter the groove near the inner edge of the welt, and the front plate or section 14L of the welt guide is so adjusted that when the sections of the welt guide are actuated to grip the welt, the edge of the welt will be bent over the end of the plate 9, as indicated in F ig. 8. The sections of the welt guide may be so actuated that they will apply suflicientpressure to the welt to bend and mold the welt so that it retains or partially retains its shape when the pressure is released. When thus molded and shaped, the welt conforms more closely to the shape of the shoulder or feather along the marginal portion of the sole of the shoe, so that the welt, upper and sole are more readily drawn together with a resulting increase in the tightness of the seam sewn.

The levers l0 and 16 which carry the sections of the welt guide are pivotally sup ported upon a bolt 19 which is mounted in the forward end of an arm 20 projecting from the feed slide 21. In order that the welt guide may be vertically adjusted to bring the welt into proper position against the shoe, the pivot bolt 19 upon which the levers 10 and 16 are carried is mounted in an eccentric sleeve 22. This sleeve is provided with a knurled head 23, and upon loosening the nut 24 on the end of the bolt 22, the sleeve may be readily turned to vary the vertical position of the work guide. The levers 10 and 16 are operated to move the welt guide toward and from the shoe, and to move the sections of the welt guide toward and from each other, through toggle links 25 and 26 connecting the upper ends of the levers. The inner ends of the links 25 and 26 are pivotally connected by a bolt 27 which passes through the links and carries a cylindrical sleeve 28 engaging a cam slot 29 in a lever 30. The lever 30 is pivotally mounted upon the bolt 19, and is provided at its upper end with a slot 31 which is engaged by a sliding block 32 carried by a pivot pin 33 at the lower end of a bell crank lever 34. The lever 34 is operated to swing the lever 30 about its pivot, and thus actuate the welt guide, by a cam groove 35 formed in a disk secured to the cam shaft of the machine, and engaged by a roll 36 on the inner end of the bell crank lever. The toggle link 26 is connected to the upper end of the lever 16 by a pivot bolt 37 which may be adjusted in a slot 38 in the lever to vary the relative movements imparted to the levers by the toggle links, and to thus regulate the pressure applied to the welt by the sections of the welt guide. The levers 10 and 16 are forced in a direction to hold the welt guide against the shoe by a spring 39, one end of which is connected to the projecting end of the pivot bolt 37, and the other end of which is connected to a pin 40 secured in the arm 20. The forward movement of the welt guide, 2'. 0., the movement toward the shoe, is determined by an adjustable screw 41 carried by the lever 16, and arranged to engage a fixed stop 42 on the arm 20. The feed slide 21 upon which the welt guide is mounted, is reciprocated to feed the welt and shoe, by a cam 43 connected with the slide through a lever 44 and connections similar to the lever and connections for operating the feed slide of the Goodyear machine above referred to.

In Figs. 1 and 2 the parts are shown in the position which they occupy after the welt guide has been advanced to feed the welt and shoe, and after the needle has advanced through the work into position to receive the loop of thread. At this time the sections of the welt guide firmly grip the welt, and the welt guide is held against the shoe by the spring 39. While the needle is in the work, the cam 35 operates the bell crank lever 34 to swing the lever 30 toward the left. During the first part of the movement of the lever 30 the cam slot 29 acts to raise the pivot 27 of the toggle links 25 and 26, thus separating the sections of the welt guide so that they no longer grip the welt.

Continued movement of the lever 30 brings the bearing face 45 on the side of the lever against the end of a stop screw 46 carried by the link 26. WVhen the lever engages this stop screw the continued movement of the lever swings the welt guide away from the shoe, as indicated in Fig. 3. While the welt guide is in this position the feed slide 21 is retracted, the welt guide moving freely along the welt. When the feed slide has completed its return movement the cam 35 swings the bell crank lever 34 and lever 30 in the opposite direction, or toward the right. During the first movement of the lever toward the right, the levers 10 and 16 which carry the welt guide move with the lever 30, so that the welt guide is moved against the shoe. When the stop screw 41 engages the stop 42, continued movement of the lever 30. causes the cam slot 29 to force the pivot 27 of the toggle links downward, thus operating the sections of the welt guide to grip and compress the welt. After the needle has been retracted to draw the loop of thread through the work, the feed slide is again advanced into the position indicated in Figs. 1 and 2. By this advance movement the welt and shoe to which it is attached are fed forward the length of a stitch, and the needle is again advanced to pierce the work.

In order that the welt may draw freely through the welt guide when the shoe is removed at the completion of the sewing operation, means is provided for actuating the welt guide to release the welt at the completion of the sewing operation. In the construction shown this means comprises a switch cam 47 arranged to direct the roll 36 on the bell crank lever 34 into a depression 48 in the cam groove 35 when the cam shaft is turned backward to relieve the tension on the thread, as is usual in Goodyear welt sewing machines. The switch cam 47 is pivoted on the cam disk in which the cam groove 35 is formed, and is held normally in such position that its outer surface forms one side of the cam groove by a spring 49. The switch cam is provided with a laterally projecting lug 50 at its free end, which is arranged in the path of a dog 51 which is mounted on the end of the bell crank lever 34. The dog 51 is pivoted on the bell crank lever, and is held yieldingly in position against a stop 52, by a spring 53. During the sewing operation the dog 51 rides idly by the lug 50, the spring 53 yielding to allow the dog to pass the lug. When the cam shaft is turned backward at the completion of the sewing operation, preparatory to the removal of the shoe, the dog 51 rides under the lug 50, lifting the switch cam 47 so that the roll 36 on the bell crank lever 34 rides under the switch cam and is directed into the depression 48. This rocks the bell crank lever and lever 30 in a direction to release the sections of the welt guide from the welt, and move the welt guide away from the shoe. The welt may now draw freely through the welt guide when the shoe is removed and the welt guide is held in its rearward position where itwill not interfere with the introduction of a new shoe. WVhen the cam shaft starts forward, the roll 36 rides out of the recess 48, and the switch cam returns to its normal position, where it remains during the sewing operation.

hile it is preferred to employ the specific construct-ion and arrangement of the parts shown and described, it will be understood that this construction and arrangement is not essential, and may be varied and modified without departing from the broader scope of the invention.

Having explained the nature and object of the invention, and specifically described one construction in which it may he embodied, what we claim is 2- 1. A welt securing mechanism, having, in combination, a welt guide comprising two members arranged to form a welt guiding opening curved transversely to the lead of the welt, and mechanism for moving the members toward and away from each other to grip and release the welt during the operation of the welt securing mechanism, substantially as described.

2. A welt sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a curved hook needle, a welt guide consisting of members arranged to form a welt guiding opening curved transversely to the lead of the welt, and means for causing the members to grip and hold the welt during each passage of the needle through the work, substantially as described.

3. A welt sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a welt guide, and mechanism for actuating the guide to intermittently grip and hold the welt, substantially as described.

41. A welt sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a needle, a welt guide, and mechanism for actuating the guide to grip and hold the welt during each passage of the needle through the work, substantially as described.

5. A welt sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, and means for intermittently gripping and holding the welt during the operation of the sewing mechanism by direct engagement with opposite sides of the welt, substantially as described.

6. A welt attaching machine, having, in combination, mechanism for attaching the welt to a shoe, a welt guide formed in two parts shaped to mold the edge ofthe welt,

and mechanism for actuating the parts to intermittently compress and mold the welt forward of its point of attachment, substantially as described.

7. A welt sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a welt guide, and mechanism for actuating the guide to intermittently grip and mold the welt, substantially as described.

8. A welt sewing machine, having, in com bination, stitch forming mechanism, a welt guide, and mechanism for actuating the guide to intermittently grip and advance the welt to feed the welt and shoe, substantially as described.

9. A welt sewing machine, having, in combinaticn, a welt guide, mechanism for actuating the guide to intermittently grip the welt, and means for actuating the guide to release the welt at the completion of the sewing operation, substantially as described.

10. A welt sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a channel guide mounted in fixed position with relation to the feed of the shoe, and means for intermittently gripping and advancing the welt to feed the welt and shoe, substantially as described.

11. A welt sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a channel guide mounted in fixed position with relation to the feed of the shoe, a welt guide,

and mechanism for actuating the guide to intermittently grip and advance the welt to feed the welt and shoe, substantially as described.

12. A welt sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a channel guide mounted in fixed position with relation to the feed of the shoe, mechanism for advancing and retracting the guide transversely of the direction of feed, a welt guide, and mechanism for actuating the guide to intermittently grip and advance the welt to feed the welt and shoe, substantially as described.

13. A welt sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism in cluding a curved hook needle, and a welt guide formed in two parts movable toward and away from each other to intermittently grip and release the welt during the sewing, substantially as described.

14. A welt sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a curved hook needle, a welt guide formed in two parts movable toward and from each other, and mechanism for actuating the parts to grip and release the welt and for reciprocating the guide to feed the welt and shoe, substantially as described.

15. A welt sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a curved hook needle, a welt guide formed in two, parts shaped to mold the edge of the welt, and mechanism for actuating the parts to intermittently compress and mold the Welt forward of its point of attachment, substantially as described.

16. A Welt sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a curved hook needle, a Welt engaging device formed in two parts movable toward and from each other, and mechanism for actuating the parts to grip and release the Welt and for reciprocating them to feed the Welt and shoe, substantially as described.

17. A Welt sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a curved hook needle, a Welt gripping device, and mechanism for actuating the device to grip and release the Welt and for reciprocating the device to feed the Welt and shoe, substantially as described.

JOHN V. ALLEN. FREDERIC E. BERTRAND. Witnesses:

LAURA M. GOODRIDGE, CHESTER E. ROGERS.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. C.

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