US1067324A - Manufacture of laces. - Google Patents

Description

J. E. DUDSON.

MANUFACT'JEB 0F LAGES.

APPLmATloN FILED JUNB3,1912.

1,067,324. Patented July 15, 1913.

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J.E.DUDSON.

MANUFACTURE OY LACES.

APPLwATmN FILED JUNEs,1912.

Patented July 15, 1913.

4 SBBETS-BHEET L WhhLe R. D mm,

i E35 VM Narr/f I ATTDRNEY.

UNlTED STATES FFCE.

JOHN E. DUDSON, 0F RIVER POINT, RHOIDE ISLAND. ASSIGNE TO HARRY C. CURTIS, OF WARWICK. RHOBE ISLAND,

MANUFACTURE OF LACES.

Application filed June 3.1912.

To all whom t may concern.'

Be it known that I, JOHN E. DUDeoN, a subject of the King of Great Britain, residing at River Point, in the county of Kent and State ot Rhode Island, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in thelt'lamifactnre of Laces, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to improvements in colored lace; in the method of making the same; und in the mechanism used in connection therewith.

ln the manufacture of lace curtains, particularly those known as English lace curtains, in which the Weaving is elected in conjunction with jacqnards, it has hitherto been impossible to weave colored longitudinal strips in which more than two colors in .spool yarn have been employed; thereby making;Y it possible to produce only a two colored fabric, and even then without raised objects and tflluny effects.

The primaryT object of this invention is to enable the weaving of such articles as lace curtains. embroidery, braids, window shades. lace-edgine"w and insertions. Cluny laces. bedspreads.y panels, parasol covers. scaris, dress goods, eollarettes, shawls, table covers, fichas, lanibreqnins. vitrages and the like with any desired colored pattern of three or more interchangeable colors in each longitudinal strip: to roduceat will any desired pattern or com )ination of three, or more colors at any desired place, including also raised objects and ornamental open lace effects. 4

In the present and preferred embodiment of my invention the machine is provided with three full threaded guide bars; the front liar carrying the Warp threads, the middle one carrying spool threads of two ditlerent colors. entered alternately in every other guide, while in the back bar the thick Spool threads for the patterning etects are entered. Each of the jacks in the machine is connected to two double .litt jacquards. but. the number of jncquards employed may be varied, :ind these are Worked in such a Wav` that the iirst one lifts at the front, motionof the machine :ind the second jacquard at the back motion. During the aforesaid two jacquard motions the guide bars are l enabled to have. 4; movements: before and after the jacks have entered the threads at the front and the back motion of the ma- Specication o! Letters Patent.

Paf exited Ju ly i 5,191 3,

sono No. 791,125.

chine. As regards the colored threads the jacks are actuated in a double way, part of them stop the threads of one color and cause same to forni ties, while the remainder ot' the jacks are held clear of the threads of the other color to enable same to follow the movenient ot thex gnidebar and to be twisted to their own warp threads.

Y The work of the machine started with the carriages in the back combs. The front bar rises one ait.. the middle and back bar two gaits eac i. The jacks, selected the first` jacquard then enter the threads, upon which the middle liar falls one gait and the back bar rises two more gaits. The carn riages then pass into the front combs. At the beginning of the next motion the .front bar falls one gait, the middle bar two gaits. and the back bar three gaits, after which the jacks enter again, this time selected by the second jacquard. While the needles of the second jacquard are lifted, those of the first jacquard have fallen. After the entering of the jacks. the middle guide bar rises one gait, the lunch har -falls one gait, upon which the carriages pass heck to the back combs.

'lo produce a fabric having three inter changeable colors with raised objects and ornamental open etiects, two of the colored pool threads are threaded alternately into one ot' the three .guidefhars employed, While the remaining thick threads employed are for the production of the raised objects and are threaded in a second eiiideebar from a simfle spool. The warp. which may or may not be of colored material, is attached to the third gijlidebar ano fulfils its usual fano tions or either strengthening the fabric or forming a coniliination of ornamental open lacy effects.

To produce a fabric having tour interchangeable colors in spool yarn, or other mau terial. two of the colored .spool threads are threaded alternatelyr` into one of the three guide hers employed, and the other two colored snool threads are threaded into a second of the guide bars alternately, and the warn, which may or may not.3 be of colored material, occupies the third guide har t'ol` 105 lever, r lever golllimugh i` type wf l l twenty guide bars as; mrripzirml will) n :i

guide bar mi the prsent inwntimi.

In the nfcolnpanying huw/ings: whirl forni a part of this speci mimi and wlwrem like reference rharaotew inflicme like parir@ throughout the viewrLMAlfigisre l a {Qm' i grammzific representation partially in fwtion of a curtain lace mac/him, Fig, i), mi elevation of a cam, Figs. 4V, 5 @mil (L xiii tailed views of vari-Juta cams'a apte-.d use g in the present invention, Fig. E", :i matic representation of my xmifsliine in four spools :are used, :1mi lU pieces of laffe mardi @.Crnrdizzg; lo my tion.

Vliile on@ m' more jai-,minimis may 13? (imv 'ployed two are shown in the illnst-rulii'xai. lnthe drawing l5 2 nml 3 rfi/pi igen?, lli@ guide bars of a curtain machin@ fram has? ammini-ivm li iriver,N

tu from; 4, the jai-:fk seprrzitfnif; mid tlm f stop needlvs (fr jaclcb suppnrwl by ihr; pirla lever 7 operated by its cam S.

g5 l() are the combs in Wliivh 1i Urli; the cm2 l riages .l1 bearing the hobbiiis 1 2: :Jul i4 arr l the Catch liars by which the; carriages are l traversed back anni forth.

16 is the lwbbin thread 0r lwih/ ihre:

Adjafont llwA fave plaie 1T ar the ivm;

point. bars 1S bjr Whisk the. twifis ar? taken up.

20 is the poi'rupine rollinq which www "i Work away from the points and regni the quantity; and 51, the wml: mii;

the warp beam; L2-1l. the t arend 11m. and 2G, the spoql flirfad slays. The numeralsi i0 31 inclusive the actlizi'ting cams glarcrl i0 reffipr the bar 1. Cam 3Q the form el 1 ticularl;v ndupiecl To and for the Wuming 1, bars Q and 3` 'i'rlwz 'The warp threads. 33 which may Ur vin-wn lfmA f not be of coloredr'mlteiiill are carried by $.11- m" ih@ ri; guide bn r Guide liar 2 'carries he lir inw Il? l' 35 of tw@ ('lilexencolnrs: frmnllf im l E in zas-'fwn inf-r i The Spool 37 @n ries the, thick iliroa: ima patterning elleots. which may m' muy bei coli'red. The jacks nr slop needles zur@ of ilu; mi@ fliimry Shll.y nml more ai aairii lmf in of ilif muwliirw lwim'e exiierin@ (lm ilu-(Hi in muli ai mumwr ilizii, licjv ri tlm from lmll :m1-lion, nml fsm uw gu lic lfm'l'i hull" msiiim 0f liv iiimfhiiiuf fl: 5 is mnnwwl lu nii Upright. nur A lum' pimon the front motion the adjacent stop needle from the position a, to position, b, on'both 'back and front motions. Inother words, if'- the needle should assume., on either back or front motions, the positioma, theV needle will reverse its position on the followinlg motions'to position b,^and viceversa. t is therefore possible toweave five distinct interchangeable colors into each longitudinal strip in any desired pattern, with a combination-of open'lacy effects, or of four or more interchangeable colors with any d'esired pattern with raised objects. The multiple operation of any individual stop needle in producing five distinct colors with open effects by occupying the various positions in connection with the uiding bars is in detail as follows: Guide ar 1 supplies.two colors, say, red and green; guide bar 2, black and gold; while guide bar 3 supplies' one color, brown. A stop needle occupying in the first .instance position a on a back motion, and b on the following front motion would produce a red loop; and by occupying position b on a back motion anda on a front inot-ion would produce een; and by occupying position c on a bacir motion, and l on a front motion would produce a black; and I) on a back motion, and c on a front motion. wouldfproduce a gold; 'while by Ioccupying position d on two consecutive motions, would produce a brown; and by position b or c on any two consecutive motions an open effect, or hole willbe roduced. x

Colored loops known as gwiss effects,

cloth A and open work B in two different colors,' as shown in Fig; 8, are made, as already described, by stopping'the threads ot' the color wanted by means of selectors or stop needles and at the same time allowing the threads ofthe other color to pass, which by the movement of the'carriage thread will get twisted to their warp threads.

Two gait clothing and open Work effects4 C, E. and F are made bythe thick spool threads in the back guide `bar by' keeping the stop needles clear of all the threads. It is possible to make all effects appearing in ordinary double action goods because my machine forms both a single loop and a double loop F. Thick gait clothing effects D, as shown in Fig. 8. are also made by the thick spool threads. By taking `jacks clear of all the threads to position, a, the thick threads are allowed to follow the movement i of their guide bar in traversing 4 gaits. :i 60

and ti gait clothing effects are not' herein illustrated, since they will be readily understood from the description sind from the cams 29 and 30.

G, Fig. 9, shows open lacy effects, which are caused by the warp threads, 33, when the jacks 5 take position (l. two adjacent warp threads .to be bound by the bobbin thread.vl Another adjacent jack, in order to form the hole, takes either position b or c.

1. As a new article of manufacture, a lace coniprsi ng weavings of thi-ec or more colors in a' single longitudinal strip.'

2. As a new article of manufacture, a lace comprising multi-colored Aweavings interspersed with raised objects.

This caused' 5l. .\s a new article of manufacture, a lace more colored spool yarns, which consists in I reciprocating the threads alternately 1n mul- -tiple distinct colors and giving double mol tions thereto and interweaving the multi- -colored threads and producing a fabric haying three or four more colors at any desired place. Y l

' 5. The process of making multi-colored, lace which consists in employing three or gore colored spool yarns and warp` yarns, eciprocatingthe threads, giving double motions to the coloredl'threads, inserting the bobbin thread transversely of the spool threads, andV pattern-controlling the moveineut ofthe spool threads.

6. The process of making lace'of three or more colored spool yarns, which consists in threading alternately two of the colored spool threads, threading a thicker thread singly and-reciprocating said threads, inserting a bobbin thread transversely of the spool threads and pattern-controlling the movement of the spool threads and producing a fabric having raised objects and ornamental open effects.

7. The process ofmaking multi-colored lace, which consists in theemployment of multiple lift jacquards, reciprocating the.

threads alternatelyin multipledistinct colors and giving double motions thereto, causties with one color and ing part to fo causing the thregds of another color to trav` to'be twisted thereto, thus erse the same a. A forming an eveiifcolored fabric with colored Veffects produced at will.

In testimony, whereof Ihave affixed-my signature in presence .of two witnesses. Y

` JOHN-E. DUDFSON. Witnesses: t

y l'loamio E. BaLLows, Flinn l/V. PERKINS.

iis

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