US1030880A - Sewing-machine. - Google Patents

Sewing-machine. Download PDF

Info

Publication number
US1030880A
US1030880A US27574105A US1905275741A US1030880A US 1030880 A US1030880 A US 1030880A US 27574105 A US27574105 A US 27574105A US 1905275741 A US1905275741 A US 1905275741A US 1030880 A US1030880 A US 1030880A
Authority
US
United States
Prior art keywords
needle
thread
lever
machine
stitch
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
US27574105A
Inventor
Andrew Eppler
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
USM Ltd
United Shoe Machinery Co AB
Original Assignee
United Shoe Machinery Co AB
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by United Shoe Machinery Co AB filed Critical United Shoe Machinery Co AB
Priority to US27574105A priority Critical patent/US1030880A/en
Priority to US705169A priority patent/US1128670A/en
Priority to US705170A priority patent/US1114240A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of US1030880A publication Critical patent/US1030880A/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

Links

Images

Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B15/00Machines for sewing leather goods

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an improvement .in sewing machines and more particularly to that type of sewing machines employing. a curved hook needle adapted for fair stitching mock weltsand'McKays.
  • the object of the invention is'to re-orgauizeand improve the construction of sewing machines and especially to produce a high speed fair stitch sewing .machine provided with stitch separating devicesand to these 'ends the present invention consists of the sewing machine hereinafter described and particularly defined in the claims.
  • Fig. 4 is a 'scctional elevation showing the looper and needle guide actuating devices.
  • -Fig-. is a sectional pian taken on the line ,r-.r Fig. 4, showing the loopcr and its actuating device. in plan
  • Fig. is a sectional plan showing thework support locking devices and the thread finger actuating mechanism
  • Fig. 8 is a detail section on the line y-y Fig. 7,
  • Fig. 9 is a right hand side elevation to a portion of the head of the machine illustrating the presser foot and its support- Fig. 10', is a front elevation of a portion of the machine showing the feed slide and the presser footadjustingdevices.
  • Fig. 11 is a left hand side levation of the feed lever
  • Fig. 12 is a Specification of Letters Ztatcnt. Application filed August 25, 1905. Serial No. 275,741.
  • Fig. -l is a' the main shaft 9.
  • FIG. 13 is a detail of a portion of the stitchseparator actuating mechanism hereinafter referred to and Fig. 14, is a plan of the stitchseparator actuating mechanism and asso-;
  • Fig. 15 is a detail sectional view of the device for stripping ⁇ "ax from the thread.
  • the needle N is carried by the needle segment 1 mounted on the needle stud 2 seniachine.
  • the needle segment 1 isactuated cured in a portion 3 of the frame of theIGfi by thenccdle lever 4: provided upon end with a segmental gear which engages the segmental pinion of the
  • the needle lever is pivoted upon the stud 5 secured in supports 6 and 7 on the head of the machine.
  • the needle lever i is provided'upon its side with a stud, carrying a cam roll engaging a cam path in the cam disk 8 mounted upon the main shaft 9 of the machine.
  • the above described arrangement and the shape of the cam path are such that in timed cooperation with the other parts of the machine, the needle is caused to move forwardly up through an opening in the work support and thence through the n'iaterials and back again.
  • the needle guide G which embraces the needle segment
  • the needle guide disk 10 is provided upon a portion of its periphery with teeth forming a segmental pinion and anothersegmental pinion 11 mounted upon the shaft 12 engages therewith.
  • the shaft 12 is mounted in a bearing in the head of the machine and upon its other end carries another segmental pinion 13 which is engaged with a segmental. gear 11 of the hell crank lever 15 pivoted upon the stud 16 secured in thehead of the machine.
  • the other arm of the bell crank lever 15 carries the block pivotally mounted upon the pin 17 which is engaged by the jaw in the end of the needle (guide lever-18 pivoted upon the shaft 5 an fee provided upon itsside with a cam roll which engages a campathfli'n the side of the cam disk 19 mounted upon
  • the abovedescribed-ar rangement. and-theshape otthe cantpath are such that the needle guide advances, with the advancingmovement of the needle, until it reaches 'a point below the lowest position occupied by the work support, when it comesto rest and remains at rest.
  • cam path otally mounted upon the shaft 5 and provided upon its side with a cam roll engaginga cam path in the cam disk 24, mounted upon the main shaft 9 of the machine.
  • the abovedescribed construction and the shape of the cam path are such as to cause the awl to advance and puncture a hole through the g materials then to move .to the left, looking at "the machine from the front as shown in Fig. 1, and then towithdraw as the needle i the feed slide 22.
  • the feed slide 22 is actuated by the feed lever 25- pivotally supported upon the stud26. in a stationary part of the machine and carrying upon its lower end a cam roll 26 which engages the cam path 27 in the cam disk 19.
  • the lever 25 is slotted and adjustably secured in the slot is a stud which carries upon its outer end the block 29 which engages a vertical groove in. the rear of the bracket 30 secured by bolts '31 to By adjusting the stud 29 up and down in the slotof the lever-25 the stroke of the feed slide and consequently the length of the stitch is varied.
  • the bolt 32 having collars thereon is received in a notch in the car 33 projected forward from the bracket 30 and is screwed into the end of the feed slide 22.
  • the looper L is mounted upon the right hand end of the looper lever 38 being secured thereto by a cap bolt 39 having provision for adjustment of the position of the looper with relation to the looper lever so as to correctly positionthe looper with respect to the needle and the other stitch forming instrumentalities.
  • Thelooper lever 38 is pivotally mounted at 40 upon the auxiliary looper lever 41 in turn pivotally mounted at 42 upon. a stationary part of the machine. All movements of the looper are secured by means of two cams, the timed cooperation of which causes the loo er to be positively actuated.
  • the auxiliary ooper lever 41 has upon its side the jaw 43 which receives a block 44 piv'otallymounted upon the front end of the slide 45 mounted in a guide way in-a portion of thenrrachineand lls carrying uponiils rear end a cam roll which engages a cam path in the side of the camdisk 1%).
  • lever is projected a pin -16 which passes through a hole in the stud 47, in turn ivotally mounted in the front end of the s ide 48 supported in a guide way in a stationary part of the-machine and having upon its rear end a cam roll which engages a cam path-in the side of the ram disk 19..
  • the above described constrtuztiou and the shape of the cam paths are such,' that after-the awl has withdrawn from the materials and the needle has uauclratcd thou-lh.rough, thc.-
  • the take-up consists of a thread truck 49, mounted upon the-end of a take-uplever 50, which is of bell crank form and pivoted upon'the stud 51 mounted in a statlonary part of the machine and to which the downwardly extended arm 52 is connected by a link 53 with the end of a takerelation to forming instrumentalities as hereinafterdeup cam lever 54, pivotally mounted upon thestud 5.
  • the arm 52 is slotted and the endof the link 53 is adapted to be secured therein at the desired point whereby the stroke of the take-up may be adjusted.
  • the work support W is mounted upon the work support carrier 56. It is slotted at 57 to receive the needle and provided at 58 with a grooving knife 59.
  • the work support 7 is secured to the work support carrier 56 by a tongue and groove connection and the cap screw 60.
  • the work support carrier 56 is so supported that it moves toward and from the presser foot in the arc of the circle of which the axis of the needle is the center.
  • This feature of construction by virtue of which the work support always moves along the path of movement of the needle is of advantage because of the reduced width of the needle opening necessary in the work sup port and for the further reason because of the maintenance of the work engaging surface oi the work support in a horizontal plane irrespective of variation of thickness in the materials.
  • This latter feature is par-- ticularly important taken in connection with a stationary presser foot, the angle of inclination of which is invariable.
  • the work is always grasped firmly between two supporting surfaces which engage considerable arcas of the work and hold it from tipping, as distinguished from constructions in which, when the material increases in thickness beyond the normal, the workis engaged only upon one surfacewhich circumstances the tendency of the pressure-upon the. materials 18 to push the work out of the machine.
  • the distance from the pivot (32 tothe pivot 63 being the same as the distance finger gives up the thread to the needle is apparent that, the upper surface of the ment of the needle, the work support will which the axis-of theneedle is the center;
  • The-bell crank lever 64 by which the spring.
  • the bell crank lever 64 is also provided with a jaw which engages a block pivotally mounted upon the front end of the work support slide 68 mounted in a guideway in the frame of" the machine and nor- 'mally pulled rearwardly by a spring 69 attached at its .forward end to the said slide 7 (S8 and at its rear end to the threaded eye pin 7 0 which, by means of its hand nut, may be adjusted to vary the tension of the It will be seen that although the thickness of the work maybe varied, the work support is always held firmly thereagainst by the spring 69 and when it is desired to enter and remove the work the work support may be depressed by the treadle connection referred to.
  • -Means are provided for locking the work support imposition against the material and such means comprise the rack 71 secured to the side of the slide 68 and adapted to be engaged by sliding pawls 72 ressed. normally in the direction of the rac I by springs 73.
  • Four pawls are provided with their rack engaging faces separated from each other fractional parts of the width of a rack toothso thatthe slide will be held in adjusted position within such fractional portionsof the length of a rack tooth.
  • the lever 74 pivoted at 75 upon a stationary portion of the machine and having a dog 76 which enters rec'esses in the underside of the pawls 72. ⁇ Vhen the lever 74, see Fig.- 8, is pressed downward the dog 76 engages the ends of the recesses iiithe pawls 7:2 and withdraws them so that they cannot. engage the teeth of the rack 71.
  • the lever 74 may be engaged and operated by hand when it is defiiredbut the automatic release of the work support is effected by means of the lever 77 pivoted at 78 upon a stationary part of the qnachinc the front end of which engages the end of the adjusting screw 79 secured in an upwardly projected portion of the portion 80 of the lever 74.
  • spring 81 connects the end of the lever 77 with the projection 80 and serves normally to hold the lever 74 up so as to permit the springs 73 to force the pawls into engagement with the teeth of the rack 71.
  • This lever 77 carries upon its rear end a cam roll which engages the cam path 82 in the face of the cam disk 24.
  • the above described arrangement and the shape of the cam path are such that while the and is back and justbefore it starts downward the work support is released. During the movement ,of'the awl l'rom its rcarmost position to a.
  • the presser foot P is mounted upon the forward end of the presser foot slide-83,
  • a friction device 94 is provided for the presscr foot slide 83 which applies sufficient friction thereto to prevent accidental ⁇ HIQYO' FIIt thereof and 133 1 has herein called upon an eccentric tated upon a lever to move the work guide ,backward and forward with relationto the; the seam in f This feature of the present-invention con-.
  • the slide 98 is dovetailed iiIsec-'
  • the tool S is mounted on the shaft which is secured to p 97 m.
  • the tongue machine and having a stitch separating tool to advance toward the work without engagement with the upper.
  • the machine is provided with a waxpot' -l- 105 consistin of a steam chamber 106 havmg a centra wax pot'space for receiving. the wax pot proper 107.
  • the wax pot 107 is made smaller than the central chamber in the wax pot and a damper 108 at the bottom afi'ords means for admitting air through holes therein to the wax pot chamber. By opening the damper more or up through the wax pot chamber and thus the temperature of the wax may be very nicely regulated and boiling thereof be prevented.
  • Thethread passing 'up from the wax pot passes through the stripper 109 consisting of a rubber gasket and a 'follower the rubber gasketto cause it tostrip more or-less wax from the thread.
  • the follower110 is provided with a groove in its upper end which is adapted to receive the-collar of the adjusting bolt 111.
  • By screwing the adjusting bolt 111 up and down the follower 110 israised and lowered.
  • a tension spring adapted to be compressed by 110 for compressing the hand wheel 11 3 is employed for applying resistance to the wheel, and a lever 114 is provided by .means' of ,which' the tension may be thrown oil.
  • An accessory of utility comprises a contrivance for heating the take-up lever which consists of a steam less a larger or smaller amount of air is permitted to pass,
  • thread truck 116 thence chamber .117 mounted upon the head of the plane surface 118 adapted to lieclose to, if notjin actual contact witlnla corresponding surface upon the side of th take-up lever 50.; r
  • the thread finger then moves to the right and to the rear'of the 'needle while the looper moves forward past the left hand side of the needle, upon which side of the needle-is located the barb, to a position beyond the plane of the needle so that the -.thread extending from the looper to' the thread finger is laid in the barb of-the needle.
  • the awl moves back to its original position ready to make ts ⁇ vork puncturing stroke.
  • the take up continues its descent giving up .threadto them but main aining it: taut at all times.
  • the needle begins its descent, the looper-moving slightly farther to the right in order to hold the thread securely in the barb of the needle and the thread finger retracts giving up thread to the needle upon the stitch side thereof while the take-up continues its descent giving up' thread to the needle upon the supply side thereof.
  • the downward movement of the take-up ceases before the retracting movement of the needle is completed, in order to" cause the needle to exert a slighttwitcliff upon the thread in order to pull it into its" final position inthe' work.
  • the thread fin er again moves to the right in order to me e roonrfor the rstitch separating tool
  • a chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, a needle, a looper, a-
  • a chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination a needle, alooper, a presser foot and stitch separating tool, and means for varying the position of the presser foot and the stitch separating tool t-ion of the machine, substantially as scribed,
  • a chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, a hook needle, a looper, a work support, movable toward and from the work, a normally stationary presser toot, a stitch separating tool, means for actuating the parts and connected means for adjusting the position of the presser foot and stitch separating tool'transversely of the seam during the operation of the machine, substantially as described.
  • a chain stitch shoe sewing machine having. in combination, a hook needle, alooper, a threa'dflin'ger, a take-up acting while the needle is'in the'workand consti tutiug the only slack thread controlling means between the thread supply and the looper, and. means for actuating the take-up to give up thread to the" looper-and to hold the thread taut during the looping operati'on, substantially EIS'dCSCllbUd.
  • a sewing machine having, in combination, a needle, a'looper, a work' support, air awl, means for supporting the awl and amon it laterally to feed the work, a. stitch-separating tool, means-for supportii'ig'and actuating the stitch separating tool to move laterally into position over a needle hole and to descend and indent the'work" and move lat erallv' from the field" of movement of the stitch forming instrumcntalities, substantially as described.
  • a shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a. gage stationary presser foot and means for 'mov- 5 transversely of the seam, during the opera- 95 v to determine the position of the seam, a stitch separating tool and means for moving the gage and stitch separating tool transversely of the scam, substantially as described.
  • a shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a gage to determine the position of the seam, a stitch separating tool, a lever, and connections between the lever and the gage and stitch separating tool to move the gage and stitch separating tool transversely of the seam, substantially as described.
  • a shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices. a gage to determine the position of the seam, a stitch separating tool, means for actuating the tool to cause it to move toward the work in an inclined path to clear the shoe upper and 11 ans tor adjusting the stitch separating tool in a right line transversely of the seam, substantially as described.
  • a shoe sewing machine having, in combination. stitch forming devices, a gage to determine the position of the seam, a

Description

A. .EPPLbIt.
SEWING MACHINE.
APPLICATION PIL'ED AUG. 25, 1905.
Patented July 2, 1912 6 SHEETS-SHEET 1.
fiva'elcdorx A. EPPLER. SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED AUG. 25, 190
Patented July 2, 1912 6 SHEETS-SHEET 2.
1500a) 1': MW @449 5' A; w a, 0M yVM A. EPPLER.
SEWING MACHINE.
APPLICATION FILED AUG. 25, 1905.
6 SHBETS'SHBET 3.
Patented July 2, 1912.
A. EPPLER.
SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED AUG. 25, 1005.
Pate nted July 2, 1912.
G SHEETS-SHEET 4.
A. EPPLER.
SEWING MAGHINE.
APPLICATION FILED AUG.25, 1905.
Patented July 2, 1912.
6 SHEETS-SHEET 5.
z is
A. EPPLER.
SEWING MACHINE.
APPLICATION FILED AUG. 25, 1905.
Patented July 2, 1912.
6 SHEETS-SHEET 6.
ANDREW EPPLER, or BOSTON, 'mAssAcHUsE'r'rs,
MACHINERY' COMPANY, or PATERSOK, NEW
NEW JERSEY,
ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE JERSEX, 'A CORPORhTION F SEWING-MACHINE.
. To all 'ivhom'it may concern;
plan. Fig.
showing the releasing-lever for ing and actuating devices.
Be-it known that I, Anmucw EPPLER, a I citizen of the United States, residing at Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines;-and I do hereby declare thefollow- 'ing to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, suchas will enable others skilled in the art to whichit appertamsto make and usethe same.
The present invention relates to an improvement .in sewing machines and more particularly to that type of sewing machines employing. a curved hook needle adapted for fair stitching mock weltsand'McKays.
The object of the invention is'to re-orgauizeand improve the construction of sewing machines and especially to produce a high speed fair stitch sewing .machine provided with stitch separating devicesand to these 'ends the present invention consists of the sewing machine hereinafter described and particularly defined in the claims.
- In the accompanying drawings illustrat in; the preferred form of the invention, Figure 1. is
3, isa right side elevation, the right hand bearing and hand wheel being removed. Fig. 4, is a 'scctional elevation showing the looper and needle guide actuating devices. -Fig-. is a sectional pian taken on the line ,r-.r Fig. 4, showing the loopcr and its actuating device. in plan, Fig. (i, is. a sectional elevation .showing the thread finger actuating mechanism, the needleactuating mechanism, a portion of the needle guide-"actuating mechanism and a portion of the work table supporting means, Fig. is a sectional plan showing thework support locking devices and the thread finger actuating mechanism, Fig. 8, is a detail section on the line y-y Fig. 7,
releasing the pawls of the. work support holding device Fig. 9, is a right hand side elevation to a portion of the head of the machine illustrating the presser foot and its support- Fig. 10', is a front elevation of a portion of the machine showing the feed slide and the presser footadjustingdevices. Fig. 11, is a left hand side levation of the feed lever, Fig. 12, is a Specification of Letters Ztatcnt. Application filed August 25, 1905. Serial No. 275,741.
.a front elevation, Fig. -l is a' the main shaft 9.
Patented July 2, 1912.
sectional elevation showing the stitch separator and its actuating mechanism, Fig. 13, is a detail of a portion of the stitchseparator actuating mechanism hereinafter referred to and Fig. 14, is a plan of the stitchseparator actuating mechanism and asso-;
ciated parts and Fig. 15 is a detail sectional view of the device for stripping \"ax from the thread. The needle N is carried by the needle segment 1 mounted on the needle stud 2 seniachine. The needle segment 1, isactuated cured in a portion 3 of the frame of theIGfi by thenccdle lever 4: provided upon end with a segmental gear which engages the segmental pinion of the The needle lever is pivoted upon the stud 5 secured in supports 6 and 7 on the head of the machine. The needle lever i, is provided'upon its side with a stud, carrying a cam roll engaging a cam path in the cam disk 8 mounted upon the main shaft 9 of the machine. The above described arrangement and the shape of the cam path are such that in timed cooperation with the other parts of the machine, the needle is caused to move forwardly up through an opening in the work support and thence through the n'iaterials and back again.
The needle guide G which embraces the needle segment,
needle N and a'll'ords support therefor, is
carried by the disk 10 pivotally mounted upon the needle stud 2 alongside the needle segment 1. The needle guide disk 10 is provided upon a portion of its periphery with teeth forming a segmental pinion and anothersegmental pinion 11 mounted upon the shaft 12 engages therewith. The shaft 12 is mounted in a bearing in the head of the machine and upon its other end carries another segmental pinion 13 which is engaged with a segmental. gear 11 of the hell crank lever 15 pivoted upon the stud 16 secured in thehead of the machine. The other arm of the bell crank lever 15 carries the block pivotally mounted upon the pin 17 which is engaged by the jaw in the end of the needle (guide lever-18 pivoted upon the shaft 5 an fee provided upon itsside with a cam roll which engages a campathfli'n the side of the cam disk 19 mounted upon The abovedescribed-ar rangement. and-theshape otthe cantpath are such that the needle guide advances, with the advancingmovement of the needle, until it reaches 'a point below the lowest position occupied by the work support, when it comesto rest and remains at rest.
, during the time the needle is penetrating the materials, receiving its threadand until the needle has moved rearwardly far enough to bring its barb close to the needle guide,
gear upon the end of the awl lever 23, piv-.
otally mounted upon the shaft 5 and provided upon its side with a cam roll engaginga cam path in the cam disk 24, mounted upon the main shaft 9 of the machine. The abovedescribed construction and the shape of the cam path are such as to cause the awl to advance and puncture a hole through the g materials then to move .to the left, looking at "the machine from the front as shown in Fig. 1, and then towithdraw as the needle i the feed slide 22.
advances and move again to the right ready to uncture a'n'ew hole and to feed the materlals the distances required for the next stitch. The feed slide 22 is actuated by the feed lever 25- pivotally supported upon the stud26. in a stationary part of the machine and carrying upon its lower end a cam roll 26 which engages the cam path 27 in the cam disk 19. The lever 25 is slotted and adjustably secured in the slot is a stud which carries upon its outer end the block 29 which engages a vertical groove in. the rear of the bracket 30 secured by bolts '31 to By adjusting the stud 29 up and down in the slotof the lever-25 the stroke of the feed slide and consequently the length of the stitch is varied. The bolt 32 having collars thereon is received in a notch in the car 33 projected forward from the bracket 30 and is screwed into the end of the feed slide 22. By turning the bolt--32,
in a. groove in a portion of the frame of'the machine and having formed upon its rear end a rack 370 which meshes with gear teeth formed on the lower end of a pivoted lever 371 which is "oscillated by means of a cam roll 372 which is carried on the side of the lever 137i and engages a cam path in the ing stroke of the needle giving up thread to the needle as it retracts, it then, moves to the right again after ha\-'ing disengaged itself from the thread in order to avoid interference with the stitch separating tool during the time such tool is making its work indenting stroke and; thereafter it again moves to the left to its original position. This additional movement of the thread finger is necessary solely for the purpose of avoiding interferences Withthe stitch separating tool and has no functional utilityin the formation of the stitch by the stitch forming instrumentalities.
vThe looper L is mounted upon the right hand end of the looper lever 38 being secured thereto by a cap bolt 39 having provision for adjustment of the position of the looper with relation to the looper lever so as to correctly positionthe looper with respect to the needle and the other stitch forming instrumentalities. Thelooper lever 38 is pivotally mounted at 40 upon the auxiliary looper lever 41 in turn pivotally mounted at 42 upon. a stationary part of the machine. All movements of the looper are secured by means of two cams, the timed cooperation of which causes the loo er to be positively actuated. The auxiliary ooper lever 41 has upon its side the jaw 43 which receives a block 44 piv'otallymounted upon the front end of the slide 45 mounted in a guide way in-a portion of thenrrachineand lls carrying uponiils rear end a cam roll which engages a cam path in the side of the camdisk 1%). lever is projected a pin -16 which passes through a hole in the stud 47, in turn ivotally mounted in the front end of the s ide 48 supported in a guide way in a stationary part of the-machine and having upon its rear end a cam roll which engages a cam path-in the side of the ram disk 19.. The above described constrtuztiou and the shape of the cam paths are such,' that after-the awl has withdrawn from the materials and the needle has uauclratcd thou-lh.rough, thc.-
From the rear end of the looper looper moves rcarwm'dl-y to luv the thread 19.0
.arid'to the right', as the thread finger moves to "the right to'form its'bight of thread,
.thei'eby 'stretching the thread between the looperand the thread finger across the left -..handside of the needle and, in positi t .bB engaged by l" needle retracts.
4 "fit the barb thereof when the The looper then stands still during the retracting stroke of the needle and during the work indenting movement of the separator and then with the retract-- ingmovement of the stitch separator it moves rearwardly and to the left to a position outside of the path of movement of the awl segment and awl clamp and then as the awl begins its retracting movement, the loo er moves forwardly and-slightly to the rig t to the position from which it started.
receive the cam paths which actuate the two slides which actuate the looper the thickness of the cam disk may be reduced from construction employing cam paths cut in the faceor edge of a cam disk. This machine being adapted to practice the Briggs method oftorming chain stitches (which forms the subject matter of the Briggs patent No. 461,793), is provided with a take-up indicated'in' a general way by the reference character T. The take-up consists of a thread truck 49, mounted upon the-end of a take-uplever 50, which is of bell crank form and pivoted upon'the stud 51 mounted in a statlonary part of the machine and to which the downwardly extended arm 52 is connected by a link 53 with the end of a takerelation to forming instrumentalities as hereinafterdeup cam lever 54, pivotally mounted upon thestud 5. The arm 52 is slotted and the endof the link 53 is adapted to be secured therein at the desired point whereby the stroke of the take-up may be adjusted. The
scribed in connection with the operation of the machine.
Sofar as the applicant is aware, he is the first to produce a machine for carrying out the Briggs method of forming chain stitches which has not employed a spring auxiliary take-up for holding the thread taut during 'the loopingof the needle. The elimination 3 of spring actuated parts is recognized as def jAccording to the 'sir'able as it'contributesto the certainty and correctness of the operation of the machine, .and as well contributes to increased speed of operation,
resentinvention the applicant'hasso timed lation to' the movements of the thread -fin;-'
By employing the sides of a cam disk to the take-up with re-- ger, looper and needle, that the thread is held tautby the take-up during the time the looper and the thread finger are laying the thread in the hook of the needle, then after the needle begins'toretreat drawing with it by the looper and thread finger, the thread upon one side while the falling take-up gives up thread to the needle upon the other side.
The work support W is mounted upon the work support carrier 56. It is slotted at 57 to receive the needle and provided at 58 with a grooving knife 59. The work support 7 is secured to the work support carrier 56 by a tongue and groove connection and the cap screw 60. The work support carrier 56 is so supported that it moves toward and from the presser foot in the arc of the circle of which the axis of the needle is the center. A link (31 iivoted at 62 to the work support carrier an at (33 to a stationary portion of the machine and thebell crank lever pivoted at (35 to the lower end of the work support carrier 56 and at (36 ton stationary part of the machine attordssuch support for the of the pivot (55 from the pivot (36 and' equal to the radius of curvature of the needle it work support being in the path of movemove downwardly along a curved path of thus the work is always correctly positioned with relation lo the needle irrespective of variations in the thickness thereof. This feature of construction by virtue of which the work support always moves along the path of movement of the needle is of advantage because of the reduced width of the needle opening necessary in the work sup port and for the further reason because of the maintenance of the work engaging surface oi the work support in a horizontal plane irrespective of variation of thickness in the materials. This latter feature is par-- ticularly important taken in connection with a stationary presser foot, the angle of inclination of which is invariable. Bythis' means the work is always grasped firmly between two supporting surfaces which engage considerable arcas of the work and hold it from tipping, as distinguished from constructions in which, when the material increases in thickness beyond the normal, the workis engaged only upon one surfacewhich circumstances the tendency of the pressure-upon the. materials 18 to push the work out of the machine.
work support is actuated, is provided upon the thread which has been laid in its barb,
carrier, the distance from the pivot (32 tothe pivot 63 being the same as the distance finger gives up the thread to the needle is apparent that, the upper surface of the ment of the needle, the work support will which the axis-of theneedle is the center;
The-bell crank lever 64:, by which the spring.
its front-end with a hook 67 adapted to be engaged by a link'connected with a treadle (not shown by which the work support may be depressed to enter and remove the work. The bell crank lever 64 is also provided with a jaw which engages a block pivotally mounted upon the front end of the work support slide 68 mounted in a guideway in the frame of" the machine and nor- 'mally pulled rearwardly by a spring 69 attached at its .forward end to the said slide 7 (S8 and at its rear end to the threaded eye pin 7 0 which, by means of its hand nut, may be adjusted to vary the tension of the It will be seen that although the thickness of the work maybe varied, the work support is always held firmly thereagainst by the spring 69 and when it is desired to enter and remove the work the work support may be depressed by the treadle connection referred to.
-Means are provided for locking the work support imposition against the material and such means comprise the rack 71 secured to the side of the slide 68 and adapted to be engaged by sliding pawls 72 ressed. normally in the direction of the rac I by springs 73. Four pawls are provided with their rack engaging faces separated from each other fractional parts of the width of a rack toothso thatthe slide will be held in adjusted position within such fractional portionsof the length of a rack tooth. Periodically in-the operation of-the machine the pawls are required to be withdrawn fromengagement with the rack and for this purpose t-here' is provided the lever 74 pivoted at 75 upon a stationary portion of the machine and having a dog 76 which enters rec'esses in the underside of the pawls 72. \Vhen the lever 74, see Fig.- 8, is pressed downward the dog 76 engages the ends of the recesses iiithe pawls 7:2 and withdraws them so that they cannot. engage the teeth of the rack 71. The lever 74 may be engaged and operated by hand when it is defiiredbut the automatic release of the work support is effected by means of the lever 77 pivoted at 78 upon a stationary part of the qnachinc the front end of which engages the end of the adjusting screw 79 secured in an upwardly projected portion of the portion 80 of the lever 74. spring 81 connects the end of the lever 77 with the projection 80 and serves normally to hold the lever 74 up so as to permit the springs 73 to force the pawls into engagement with the teeth of the rack 71. This lever 77 carries upon its rear end a cam roll which engages the cam path 82 in the face of the cam disk 24. The above described arrangement and the shape of the cam path are such that while the and is back and justbefore it starts downward the work support is released. During the movement ,of'the awl l'rom its rcarmost position to a.
position where it is about to engage the materials the pawls again lock-the work support until the feeding movement is about'to begin, at which time the work support is again released and remains released during the feed movement of the awl while the awl is retracting and the needle advancing through the materials and..until" aft e'r the looper has laid the thread'in the hook ofthe needle and the needle is about to begin its retracting stroke when the pawls are again permitted to engage the rack and lock the work support until the and has completed. its back feed and it-is again about to make its movement toward the materials. 0,
It will be observed that the times of release of the work support occur,"the one,
during the time the feed is taking place andthe thickness of the material between the presser foot and the work support is liable to vary. This latter'o'f course, contributes to the ease of feeding the work. The presser foot P is mounted upon the forward end of the presser foot slide-83,
.which is dovetailed in cross section and received in a correspondingly shaped groove in the side'of .the feed slide head 21. The upper side the p'resserfoot slide 83 is provided at it's rear end with rackteeth which are engaged by the teeth of apinion 84 mounted upon a' stud 85 secured to the feed slide head. The pinion 84 is engaged by a segmental pinion 86 secured to the short shaft 87 supported in a bearing in the feed slide head. Upon the end of the shaft 87 is secured the hand lever 88 whichis split and clamped upon the shaft, 87 by the cap screw 89. The upper-end of the handlever 88 is extended between two stop bolts 90 and 91 which limit the movements of the hand lover. The above described arrangement is such that the presser foot may be move'dforward and back transversely of the seanrto vary the position of the seam inthe work,
the foot bearing against thcshoe upper and constituting a gage to determine the position of the work witlrrclation to the needle. When the lower end of the lever 88 is pushed rearwardly it forces the presser foot forward and thereby causes the seani to be sewed-at the proper vdistance fromthe upper. Upon the shaft 87 there is also mounted a segmental. pinion 92 which engages with the rack upon the lower side of the slide block 93, see F ig.- 13, which is articulated with the stitch separating mechanism so as to vary the position of the stitch separating tool with the variations in the position of the presser foot. A friction device 94 is provided for the presscr foot slide 83 which applies sufficient friction thereto to prevent accidental\HIQYO' FIIt thereof and 133 1 has herein called upon an eccentric tated upon a lever to move the work guide ,backward and forward with relationto the; the seam in f This feature of the present-invention con-.
presentappl cant, August 2,
which consists of a clip arranged to bear irgamst thesideof the slide as best shown in stitutes an improvement upon the construc- =t-ion illustrated in the patent granted to the 608,373 in which is illustrated a construct-ion comprising what is termed a work-guide (which corresponds to what the applicant a presser-foot) mounted stud adapted to be roneedle tovary the position of the sole. In this construction, however, the turning of the eccentric stud to advance and retract thework-guide results in changing the angle of the work engaging face of the "cording to the present sive stitches and form an indentation-in the mica-in front of thefeed slide.
" f the lower. end'of which is carried a cam roll which engages the cam {of the cam "oscillations are imparted ing the time theyare .vided with a groove shoes in that work, which makes the seam more uniform inappear'ance;
.;ao y
,.96 in turn mounted in a bearing fslide 98." The slide 98 is dovetailed iiIsec-' The tool S is mounted on the shaft which is secured to p 97 m. the
its carrier 95 tion and is received in vertical guides lov To the end of the shaft 00 is secured the arm 0!) upon path 100 in the face disk.8'." By; this means lateral to the stitch separating tool S. These oscillations are'for the urpose of getting tlur-tool out of the way of the stitchforming instrumentalities durperforming their operations'and bringing it back into position to perform its indenting work. Thchnh upon the upperend of the lever 09 is pro- 101 which is engaged by a tongue 102 projected from the side of the slide 93. The tongue 10). fits .loosely in the groove 101. The slide 08is pivotally connected by a link 103 with the upper end of a cam lever. 10% pivoted upon the stud 51 and carrying upon its rear end a' cam roll which engages a cam path in the side of the cam disk 8. By this means vertical work indenting movements are imparted, to the stitch separating tool S. and groove connection 101 and 102 causes the stitch separating tool to be moved down: ward in the direction of the tongue and groove when the slide 08 is dc )ressed. This atl'ords provision for moving the stitch separating toolin an inclined direction toward the materials and facilitates the sewing of itaffords: provision for the ing machine.
The tongue machine. and having a stitch separating tool to advance toward the work without engagement with the upper.
By this means close edge soles may be 1ndented \Yltll Ollll danger of per. It is believed that the present construction is the first to embody a stitch separating means in a-ci'u'ved-needle chain-stitch sew- The feature of connecting the presscrfoot and stitch separator so as toadjust them both with one adjusting lever is of utility because it is desirable in a machine of this character, tions of the stitch separator should maintain a constant relation to the upper, irrespective of variations in sole edge.
injury to the upthat the indentathe width of the;
The machine is provided with a waxpot' -l- 105 consistin of a steam chamber 106 havmg a centra wax pot'space for receiving. the wax pot proper 107. The wax pot 107 is made smaller than the central chamber in the wax pot and a damper 108 at the bottom afi'ords means for admitting air through holes therein to the wax pot chamber. By opening the damper more or up through the wax pot chamber and thus the temperature of the wax may be very nicely regulated and boiling thereof be prevented. Thethread passing 'up from the wax pot passes through the stripper 109 consisting of a rubber gasket and a 'follower the rubber gasketto cause it tostrip more or-less wax from the thread. The follower110 is provided with a groove in its upper end which is adapted to receive the-collar of the adjusting bolt 111. By screwing the adjusting bolt 111 up and down the follower 110 israised and lowered. 'Thisis regarded as "an improve-- ment over the use of a screw thread on the follower which has in the past caused considerable trouble by the sticking of the gasket in the thread. From the stripper the thread passes over the tension wheel 112, a tension spring adapted to be compressed by 110 for compressing the hand wheel 11 3 is employed for applying resistance to the wheel, and a lever 114 is provided by .means' of ,which' the tension may be thrown oil. The thread from the tension wheel runs through the thread tube 115 to the stationary over the thread truck 4.) of the take-up and thence to the looper. An accessory of utility comprises a contrivance for heating the take-up lever which consists of a steam less a larger or smaller amount of air is permitted to pass,
thread truck 116 thence chamber .117 mounted upon the head of the plane surface 118 adapted to lieclose to, if notjin actual contact witlnla corresponding surface upon the side of th take-up lever 50.; r
The operation of the machine is described as follows :-Beginning with! the parts in the positions which they occupy when the as released.
work is .entered in the machine, the work support treadle is depressed to lower the worksupport and the edge of the sole is laid upon the work support and the trcadle The hand .lever 88 is then moved to properly position the presser foot with relation to the work support so as to bring the seam int-he proper position to cause the seamto be sewed. The machine the needle has entered the materials, the
take-up completes its rising movement thereby exerting a pull upon the thread and drawing the previously formed loop up taut around the shank of the needle, after which it pulls ott thread for the next stitch from the tension. After the needle has reached its advanced position the looper moves back to present'the thread to the thread finger,
the take-up atthe same time beginning its descent, the thread finger then moves to the right and to the rear'of the 'needle while the looper moves forward past the left hand side of the needle, upon which side of the needle-is located the barb, to a position beyond the plane of the needle so that the -.thread extending from the looper to' the thread finger is laid in the barb of-the needle. During the looping of the needle by the thread finger and looper, the awl moves back to its original position ready to make ts \vork puncturing stroke. During -these movements of the thread finger and looper, the take up continues its descent giving up .threadto them but main aining it: taut at all times. Then the needle begins its descent, the looper-moving slightly farther to the right in order to hold the thread securely in the barb of the needle and the thread finger retracts giving up thread to the needle upon the stitch side thereof while the take-up continues its descent giving up' thread to the needle upon the supply side thereof. The downward movement of the take-up ceases before the retracting movement of the needle is completed, in order to" cause the needle to exert a slighttwitcliff upon the thread in order to pull it into its" final position inthe' work. During the latf i ter part of the retracting stroke of thei needle and after the thread has disengaged itself from the thread finger. the thread fin er again moves to the right in order to me e roonrfor the rstitch separating tool,
which, during the last part of the retracting stroke of the needle, has been moving to the right into position over the needle hole. After the needle has reached the limit of its retracting stroke, the stitch separating tool descends moving forwardly at the same time so that it is projected into the crease be tween the upper and the welt. After the work indenting movement of the separator is completed it rises and again moves out ot' the way to the left. It will be observed that the'threadisheld taut at all times by the needle, looper, thread finger, and takenp during" theloopingof the needle.
Having thus described the invention, what is claimed is 1. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, a needle, a looper, a-
1 spring supported work support, a normally ing the presser foot back and forward in a straight line in relation to the work support, r to' vary the position of the seam, substan tially as described. v
2. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination a needle, alooper, a presser foot and stitch separating tool, and means for varying the position of the presser foot and the stitch separating tool t-ion of the machine, substantially as scribed,
3. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, a hook needle, a looper, a work support, movable toward and from the work, a normally stationary presser toot, a stitch separating tool, means for actuating the parts and connected means for adjusting the position of the presser foot and stitch separating tool'transversely of the seam during the operation of the machine, substantially as described.
4-. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine, having. in combination, a hook needle, alooper, a threa'dflin'ger, a take-up acting while the needle is'in the'workand consti tutiug the only slack thread controlling means between the thread supply and the looper, and. means for actuating the take-up to give up thread to the" looper-and to hold the thread taut during the looping operati'on, substantially EIS'dCSCllbUd.
I 5. A sewing machine, having, in combination, a needle, a'looper, a work' support, air awl, means for supporting the awl and amon it laterally to feed the work, a. stitch-separating tool, means-for supportii'ig'and actuating the stitch separating tool to move laterally into position over a needle hole and to descend and indent the'work" and move lat erallv' from the field" of movement of the stitch forming instrumcntalities, substantially as described. i
6. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a. gage stationary presser foot and means for 'mov- 5 transversely of the seam, during the opera- 95 v to determine the position of the seam, a stitch separating tool and means for moving the gage and stitch separating tool transversely of the scam, substantially as described.
7. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a gage to determine the position of the seam, a stitch separating tool, a lever, and connections between the lever and the gage and stitch separating tool to move the gage and stitch separating tool transversely of the seam, substantially as described.
8. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices. a gage to determine the position of the seam, a stitch separating tool, means for actuating the tool to cause it to move toward the work in an inclined path to clear the shoe upper and 11 ans tor adjusting the stitch separating tool in a right line transversely of the seam, substantially as described.
9. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination. stitch forming devices, a gage to determine the position of the seam, a
stitch separating tool, means tor actuating,
the tool to cause it to move. toward the work in an inclined path to clear the shoe upper, and a lever and suitable connectionsfor adjusting the gage and tool transversely of the seam. substantially as described.
In testimony whereof] atiix my signature, in presence of two witnesses.
A NDREV IGPILER. lVitness s:
Jos. \VARREN, Amman It. I'IILDRE'II].
fit)
US27574105A 1905-08-25 1905-08-25 Sewing-machine. Expired - Lifetime US1030880A (en)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US27574105A US1030880A (en) 1905-08-25 1905-08-25 Sewing-machine.
US705169A US1128670A (en) 1905-08-25 1912-06-22 Thread-waxing device.
US705170A US1114240A (en) 1905-08-25 1912-06-22 Sewing-machine.

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US27574105A US1030880A (en) 1905-08-25 1905-08-25 Sewing-machine.

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
US1030880A true US1030880A (en) 1912-07-02

Family

ID=3099172

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
US27574105A Expired - Lifetime US1030880A (en) 1905-08-25 1905-08-25 Sewing-machine.

Country Status (1)

Country Link
US (1) US1030880A (en)

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
GB493628A (en) Improvements in or relating to sewing machines
US1030880A (en) Sewing-machine.
US473564A (en) Buttonhole sewing-machine
US1785412A (en) Label-sewing machine
US1923562A (en) Shoe sewing machine
US1030774A (en) Sewing-machine.
US1106800A (en) Sewing-machine.
US2198391A (en) Shoe sewing machine
US1291661A (en) Machine for operating upon leather.
US707094A (en) Lock-stitch shoe-sewing machine.
US922048A (en) Sewing-machine.
US240307A (en) And andrew eppler
US1738778A (en) Sewing machine
US2502629A (en) Machine for making stitchdown shoes
US1459388A (en) Wax-thread sewing machine
US2327125A (en) Shoe sewing machine
US616314A (en) Shoe-sewing machine
US1357237A (en) Presser-foot mechanism for sewing-machines
US1733515A (en) Presser-foot mechanism for sewing machines
US55029A (en) Improvement in sewing-machines
US1466341A (en) Welt-guide and stitch-indenting mechanism
GB191304259A (en) Improvements in the Method of Making Boots and Shoes.
US59715A (en) Improvement in sewing-machines for sewing together the soles and uppers of shoes
US135032A (en) Improvement in sewing-machines for boots and shoes
US902828A (en) Machine for sewing buttons to the uppers of boots or shoes.