US1014651A - Coat. - Google Patents

Description

' M. KOHN.

COAT. APPLICATION FILED JAN.3; 1910. 1,014,651, 'Patented Jan16,1912.

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APPLICATION PILBD mum, 1-910. 1,014, 5 1 Patented Jan; 16, 1912.

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Specification of Letters Patent;

Patented Jan. 16, 1912.

Application filed January 3, 1910. Serial No. 535,918.

ful Improvement in Coats, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description.

This invention relates to the construction of convertible collars and the lapels for coats, overcoats, or similar garments; its

object is to so construct these parts that they may be adapted to present either one of two styles and be readily changeable from one style, a normal collar, to the other, a military collar, with perfect adaptation of the contiguous parts to either style and without wrinkles or other unsightly appearanceof being forced into strained or unnatural relations.

The invention consists of such construction and assembling of the parts as will admit of the collar being rolled low down and merging into a broad expanse of lapel on either side as in a normal collar, or of being rolled high and close to the neck of the user with the lapels lapped high and'buttoned close under the throat as in a military collar. r

The embodiment "of the invention at present considered most desirable is shown in the accompanying drawing and hereinafter fully described, and defined in the appended claims.

Figure 1 is a front elevation of the upper part of a coat illustratin the collar and lapels when the front'portions of the collar are rolled low and the broad lapels exposed to present the appearance of a normal collar. Fig. 2'is a similar view of the same with the front portions of the collar rolled high and the lapels lapped high and buttoned close under the collar to present the appearance of a military collar. Fig. 3 is a rear elevation of the top portion of a coat, with the collar standing and portions of the under-collar piece broken away to more clearly disclose the features of the invent1on. Fig; 4 is a cross sectional view on the line 514 of Fig. 3, showing the collar,

etc., turned over for the high roll or military collar of Fig. 2; and Fig. 5 is a similar view on the same line showing the collar,-

etc., turned for the low .roll or normal collar of Fig. 1. I i The main feature of the invention lies in so constructing a convertible collar with its stiflening lining, etc., that the collar structure as a Whole shall be sufliciently reinforced and that each of its convertible forms shall be so individually reinforced as to retain its perfect form, such individual stifi' ener linings being so disposed that each form will support the other and that a high degree of flexibility shall be secured along the lines of demarcation where the collar shall roll or be turned outwardly and down, the easy flexure along these lines making them the natural guide lines for the rolling of the collar to either of its two positions. The coat and collar may be made in accordance with any of the present day tailoring practices, that shown in the'drawings having the goods A, for the main outer body of the coat,.extendin over both sides of the lapels and over t e outside of the collar which is composed of a main part or stand and a supplementary part or leaf, the under ollar or lining B being usually of difl'erent and cheaper material and composed of a single piece which lines both the stand and the leaf. Between these outer facings of the collar is the usual canvas stiffener lining- C extending over both stand and leaf and secured by stitching in usual manner. In addition to the canvas stifl'ener C an inner additional stiffener strip D is used.

-fiThis strip is of the shape of the leaf of the,

collar as shown in Figs. 1 and 3, and it is securely fastened in place by suitable stitching. At each end of the stand of the collar there is another long, triangular, additional stiffener strip D, which is located between the leaf strip D and the upper edge of the line e of jointpre of the under collar B with the inner canvas stiffener C. These strips D are narrowed to a point near the middle of the stand andtheir wide ends extend to the points where the ends of the stand merge into the lapels.

Between the adjacent edges of the strips D and D is a line of demarcation (l which is more flexible than the adjacent parts, and formsa natural guide for the high roll d of the leaf'of the collar, Figs. 2 and 4. Between the lower edges of the stiffener strips D and the seam line e, of the canvas and.

the low roll f of the stand of the collar, Figs. 1 and 5.

of demarcation 1 which forms a guide for' This invention provides that a coat may Wise expressed, acollar capable of two dis tinct forms normal or military and readily convertible from one form to the other without disfigurement of the garment or particularly showing'the presence of the form of collar not in use-at any time. The canvas stiffener is applied to the whole collar as usual while the additional stiffener strips define with flexible demarcation lines, that do not show on the outside, the proper shape for each form of collar.

In use the turning over of the lapels will act to turn the leaf of the collar on its high roll as shown by Figs. 2 and 4 while the rolling or turning back of the lapels will return the collar to its low roll or normal position as shown in Figs. 1 and 5. When the collar is high rolled its stiffener strip D prevents any sagging of the collar within itself and the stiffener strips or pieces D of the stand serve to hold the other, D, of the leaf up in place against any sagging of the adjacent portions of the coat body either at front or back. In fact each strip aids and supports the other to a desirable extent.

Having described the invention, what is claimed as new and useful is:

1. In a coat collar, the combination of a collar convertible into alternative forms and having the usual outer cloth facings and an inner canvas stifiener reinforcing the entire collar structure secured thereto, additional inner strips of stiffener fabric shaped to conform with and extra reinforce the several respective, collar forms and secured in place therein'with sufiicient spaces between the'adjacent edges of said additional stiffener strips to form lines of easy flexure which define the several shapes into which the col have two distinct forms of collars, -or, otherlar may be folded.

2. In a coat collar, the combination of a collar convertible into alternative forms and having'the usual outer cloth facings and an inner canvas stiffener reinforcing the entire collar structure secured thereto, an additional inner strip ofstifl'ener fabric extending the length of the collar and secured thereto near its outer edge, with other additional inner strips'of stiffener fabric of desired shapes secured to the collar within the first mentioned long strip, all of said strips being suitably secured in place with sufficient spaces between them to form lines of easy flexure which define the several shapes into which the collarmay be folded.

3. In a coat collar, the combination of a collar convertible into alternative forms and having the usual outer cloth facings and inner canvas stlfi'ener reinforcing the entire collar structure secured thereto, an additional inner strip of stifi'ener fabric extending the length of the collar near its outer edge with other additional inner pieces of stifi'ener fabric of triangular shape with their opposed aplces toward the middle of the collar and their bases merging into .the lapels of the coat, all of said additional stiffener pieces being suitably secured in place with sufiicient spaces between them to form lines of easy flexure which define the several sectional shapes into which the collar may be folded.

In testimonv whereof, I hereunto aflix my signature in the presence of two witnesses. MAX KOHN.

Witnesses:

WM. A. SKINKLE, E. L. THURSTON.

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