TWI354041B - Woven or knitted fabric and cloth containing crimp - Google Patents

Woven or knitted fabric and cloth containing crimp Download PDF

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Publication number
TWI354041B
TWI354041B TW94133493A TW94133493A TWI354041B TW I354041 B TWI354041 B TW I354041B TW 94133493 A TW94133493 A TW 94133493A TW 94133493 A TW94133493 A TW 94133493A TW I354041 B TWI354041 B TW I354041B
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Taiwan
Prior art keywords
fiber
water
crimped
woven fabric
fabric
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TW94133493A
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Chinese (zh)
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TW200615412A (en
Inventor
Satoshi Yasui
Takeshi Yamaguchi
Masato Yoshimoto
Shigeru Morioka
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Teijin Fibers Ltd
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Priority claimed from JP2004281494A external-priority patent/JP4414851B2/en
Priority claimed from JP2004283758A external-priority patent/JP4414854B2/en
Priority claimed from JP2005019486A external-priority patent/JP2006207065A/en
Application filed by Teijin Fibers Ltd filed Critical Teijin Fibers Ltd
Publication of TW200615412A publication Critical patent/TW200615412A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of TWI354041B publication Critical patent/TWI354041B/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • D04B1/20Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads crimped threads
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41BSHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B1/00Shirts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41BSHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B17/00Selection of special materials for underwear
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/04Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
    • A41D31/14Air permeable, i.e. capable of being penetrated by gases
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/292Conjugate, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, fibres or filaments
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/30Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the fibres or filaments
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/567Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/573Tensile strength
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/16Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41BSHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B2400/00Functions or special features of shirts, underwear, baby linen or handkerchiefs not provided for in other groups of this subclass
    • A41B2400/20Air permeability; Ventilation
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/02Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02Moisture-responsive characteristics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04Outerwear; Protective garments
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/30Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/3146Strand material is composed of two or more polymeric materials in physically distinct relationship [e.g., sheath-core, side-by-side, islands-in-sea, fibrils-in-matrix, etc.] or composed of physical blend of chemically different polymeric materials or a physical blend of a polymeric material and a filler material
    • Y10T442/3154Sheath-core multicomponent strand material

Description

1354041 九、發明說明: 【發明所屬之技術領域3 技術領域1354041 IX. Description of the invention: [Technical field 3 of the invention] Technical field

本發明係有關於一種含有捲縮複合纖維的編織物及衣 5 服,係可利用出汗等水濕潤,以提高透氣性,且降低悶熱 感者。更詳而言之,本發明係有關於一種由接合成並列型 或偏心芯鞘型之聚酯成分與聚醯胺成分構成,且含有具明 顯捲縮之複合纖維的編織物,並且係一種吸濕時之編織物 透氣性比乾燥時以效能更佳之方式可逆性地提高的編織物 10 及衣服。The present invention relates to a knitted fabric and a garment comprising a crimped conjugate fiber, which can be moistened with water such as sweating to improve gas permeability and to reduce sultry sensation. More specifically, the present invention relates to a woven fabric comprising a polyester component joined to a side-by-side or eccentric core-sheath type and a polyamide component, and comprising a composite fiber having a marked crimp, and is a suction. The woven fabric 10 and the garment are improved in breathability when wet, in a manner that is reversibly improved in a more efficient manner when dry.

【先前技術J 發明背景 目前,將含有捲縮纖維之編織物使用於滑雪裝、風雪 衣、戶外運動服等運動用衣物,或雨衣、男用/女用外套等 15 外衣用衣物等用途上是已知的。 但是,前述習知編織物在因出汗等而水濕潤時,會附 著於肌膚並產生不快感,且有其乾燥速度遲緩等問題。 為了解決前述問題,已有一種在水濕潤時透氣性升 高,且當乾燥時,透氣性降低之透氣性自行調節型編織物。 20 當穿著由前述編織物製成之衣服,並且因出汗而濕潤時, 可提高透氣性且迅速地乾燥去除滯留於衣服内之水分,並 且在乾燥後,由於衣服透氣性降低,且衣服保溫效果提高, 因此,不論在出汗時,或尚未出汗時,衣服肌膚觸感皆可 常維持為良好狀態。 5 例如,在特開2003-41462號公報(專利文獻丨)中,揭露 了一種由含有磺酸基之變性聚乙稀酯、耐隆等接合成並列 髮之複合纖維(A)、及尺寸對溫度變化不會有實質性變化之 纖維(B)構成的透氣性自行調節型編織物,又,雖該編織物 之透氣性在吸濕時比乾燥時更加可逆性地提高,但其透氣 性之變化量並不實用。 又,在特開平10-77544號公報(專利文獻2)中,揭露了 一種編織物,係利用吸濕性聚合物(例如,親水性化合物共 聚合之共聚合聚乙烯酯聚合物與聚醚酯醯胺聚合物等)形 成,且包含有加熱成具有6800〜26000撚係數之合成複絲, 並且該合成複絲之含有率為30重量%以上。 此外,特開2002-180323號公報(專利文獻3)中揭露了一 種編織物’該編織物係利用醋酸纖維素纖維(在濕度95%以 上時,顯現小於10%之捲縮率,且在濕度65%時,具有 15〜20%之捲縮率與25個/25.4mm以上之捲縮數,並且在濕 度45%以下時,具有20%以上之捲縮率)構成。 揭露於前述專利文獻2及3之編織物係藉由吸濕來提昇 透氣性,但其透氣性之變化量並不實用,因此希望能有透 氣性變化量更大之透氣性自行調節型編織物。 專利文獻1 特開2003-41462號公報 專利文獻2 特開平10-77544號公報 專利文獻3 特開2002-180323號公報 【發明内容】 發明之揭示 本發明之目的在於提供一種水濕潤時之透氣性比乾燥 時之透氣性於實用上提高至更充分之高程度,立藉由水濕 潤提高透氣性之含有捲縮複合纖維的編織物及含有該編織 物的衣服。 本發明之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有捲縮複合纖維 的編織物係由熱收縮性互異且接合成並列構造或偏心芯鞘 構造之聚酯樹脂成分與聚醯胺樹脂成分構成,並包含具有 藉由熱處理而顯現捲縮之複合纖維的紗條,而前述編織物 所包含之前述捲縮複合纖維含有率為10〜100質量% :又, 自前述編織物採取試驗用捲縮複合纖維試料,且將前述複 合纖維試料之1部分在溫度20°c、濕度65%RH之環境下放置 24小時而乾燥時,測量前述捲縮複合纖維的捲縮率 DCF(%) ’並且,將前述複合纖維試料之另1部分浸潰於溫度 30°C的水中2小時,並由水中拉起前述試料,在拉起後6〇秒 以内,於溫度30t、濕度90%RH之空氣中將其夾於丨對濾紙 之間’並在刚述試料上施加〇.69mN/cm2之壓力5秒後,測量 由前述試料輕輕拭去水分之前述捲縮複合纖維的捲縮率 HCF(%) ’此時’前述DCf(%)與HCf(%)可滿足下式: (DCf-HCf)^ 10(%) ° 在本發明之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有捲縮複合纖 維的編織物中’前述聚8旨樹脂成分細變性聚_脂構成 者為佳’且該魏㈣旨職以酸成分含量為基準係共聚合 有2.0〜4.5莫耳%之5·鈉磺異苯二甲酸。 本發明之利用水賴提高透氣性之含有捲縮複合纖維 1354041 的編織物_,前述含有前述捲縮複合纖維之紗條以具有 0〜300T/m以下之撚數者為佳。 本發明之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有捲縮複合纖維 的編織物中,前述編織物亦可含有前述捲縮複合纖維、及 5 與該捲縮複合纖維相異之其他纖維。[Prior Art J BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Currently, a knitted fabric containing crimped fibers is used for sports clothes such as ski wear, snow suits, and outdoor sportswear, or for raincoats, men's/women's outerwear, and the like. known. However, when the water is wetted by sweating or the like, the conventional knitted fabric adheres to the skin and causes an unpleasant feeling, and has a problem that the drying speed is slow. In order to solve the aforementioned problems, there has been a gas permeable self-adjusting braid which has an increased gas permeability when water is wet and which has reduced gas permeability when dried. 20 When wearing a garment made of the aforementioned woven fabric and moistened by sweating, the breathability is improved and the moisture retained in the garment is quickly dried, and after drying, the breathability of the garment is lowered, and the garment is kept warm. The effect is improved, so that the feeling of the skin of the clothes can be maintained in a good state regardless of sweating or sweating. For example, Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. 2003-41462 (Patent Document No.) discloses a composite fiber (A) which is joined by a sulfonic acid group-containing denatured polyethylene ester, a lanthanum or the like, and a size pair. The gas permeable self-adjusting braid composed of the fiber (B) whose temperature change does not substantially change, and the gas permeability of the knitted fabric is more reversibly improved when it absorbs moisture than when it is dried, but its gas permeability is improved. The amount of change is not practical. Further, Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. Hei 10-77544 (Patent Document 2) discloses a woven fabric using a hygroscopic polymer (for example, a copolymerized polyvinyl ester polymer and a polyether ester copolymerized with a hydrophilic compound). The guanamine polymer or the like is formed and includes a synthetic multifilament heated to have a coefficient of 6800 to 26,000 Å, and the content of the synthetic multifilament is 30% by weight or more. Further, Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. 2002-180323 (Patent Document 3) discloses a knit fabric in which a cellulose acetate fiber is used (when the humidity is 95% or more, a crimping ratio of less than 10% is exhibited, and humidity is exhibited. At 65%, it has a crimp ratio of 15 to 20% and a crimp ratio of 25/25.4 mm or more, and has a crimp ratio of 20% or more when the humidity is 45% or less. The woven fabric disclosed in the above Patent Documents 2 and 3 is improved in gas permeability by moisture absorption, but the amount of change in gas permeability is not practical, and therefore it is desirable to have a gas permeable self-adjusting woven fabric having a larger change in gas permeability. . [Patent Document 1] Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. Hei. No. Hei. No. Hei. No. Hei. No. Hei. No. Hei. No. Hei. No. Hei. A knitted fabric containing a crimped conjugate fiber and a garment containing the woven fabric, which are improved in gas permeability by drying in a practical manner, to a degree that is more sufficiently high. The knitted fabric containing the crimped conjugate fiber which is improved in water permeability by water wetting is composed of a polyester resin component and a polyamide resin component which are bonded to each other in a side-by-side structure or an eccentric core-sheath structure, and include a yarn having a composite fiber which is crimped by heat treatment, and the content of the crimped composite fiber contained in the knitted fabric is 10 to 100% by mass: Further, a test crimped composite fiber sample is taken from the knitted fabric. And when one part of the above-mentioned composite fiber sample was left to stand in an environment of a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours to dry, the crimping ratio DCF (%) of the crimped conjugate fiber was measured and the aforementioned composite was The other part of the fiber sample was immersed in water at a temperature of 30 ° C for 2 hours, and the sample was pulled up from the water, and it was sandwiched in the air at a temperature of 30 t and a humidity of 90% RH within 6 sec after the pulling up.丨 丨 丨 滤 滤 滤 滤 滤 滤 滤 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 'The aforementioned DCf (%) and HCf (%) can The following formula is satisfied: (DCf-HCf)^10 (%) ° In the knitted fabric containing the crimped conjugate fiber which is improved in water permeability by water wetting of the present invention, the above-mentioned poly 8 resin component is a finely modified poly-lipid component. Jia' and Wei (4) are responsible for the copolymerization of 2.0 to 4.5 mol% of sodium sulfoisophthalic acid based on the acid content. In the knitted fabric comprising the crimped conjugated fiber 1354041 which utilizes water to improve the gas permeability, the yarn containing the crimped conjugated fiber preferably has a number of turns of 0 to 300 T/m or less. In the knitted fabric comprising the crimped conjugate fiber which is moisturized and improved in water permeability by the present invention, the knitted fabric may further comprise the crimped conjugate fiber and the other fibers different from the crimped conjugate fiber.

本發明之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有捲縮複合纖維 的編織物中,前述其他纖維係選自不捲縮纖維、或具有前 述捲縮率差DCF — HCF係小於10%之纖維者為佳。 本發明之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有捲縮複合纖維 10 的編織物中,當前述含有捲縮複合纖維之編織物進行 JIS丄1096.8.14.1B法所規定之伸縮織物的伸縮性測量(但 是,將附加於試驗編織物實驗片之載重值變更為1.47N) 時,若前述編織物為織物,則其選自經方向及緯方向中之 至少1方向的伸縮率為10%以上,又,若前述編織物為編 15 物,則其選自橫方向與縱方向中之至少1方向的伸縮率為 10%以上者為佳。 本發明之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有捲縮複合纖維 的編織物中,前述含有捲縮複合纖維之編織物係具有多層 構造,且在其至少1層中亦可含有該層重量之30〜100質量% 20 之前述捲縮複合纖維。 本發明之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有捲縮複合纖維 的編織物中,前述編織物係具有圓編組織之編物,又,該 圓編組織之紗線圈亦可由含有前述捲縮複合纖維與前述其 他纖維的紗條形成。 8 1354041 本發明之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有捲縮複合纖維 的編織物中,前述編織物為織物,且前述含有捲縮複合纖 維之紗條係前述捲縮複合纖維與前述其他纖維之混紡紗 條,又,前述織物之經線與緯線、抑或是經線或緯線亦可 5 利用前述捲縮複合纖維與前述其他纖維之混紡紗條構成。In the knitted fabric comprising the crimped conjugate fiber which utilizes water wetting to improve gas permeability, the other fiber is selected from the group consisting of non-crimped fibers or fibers having a DCF-HCF system of less than 10%. . In the knitted fabric containing the crimped conjugated fiber 10 which is moistened with water and moistened by the present invention, the knitted fabric containing the crimped conjugated fiber is subjected to the measurement of the stretchability of the stretchable fabric specified in the method of JIS 丄 1086.8.14.1B (but When the load value attached to the test braid test piece is changed to 1.47 N), if the knitted fabric is a woven fabric, the stretch ratio is at least 10% selected from at least one of the warp direction and the weft direction, and When the knitted fabric is a woven fabric, it is preferably selected from the group consisting of at least one of the transverse direction and the longitudinal direction. In the knitted fabric comprising the crimped conjugate fiber which utilizes water wetting to improve gas permeability, the woven fabric containing the crimped conjugate fiber has a multilayer structure, and may contain the weight of the layer in at least one layer thereof. 100% by mass of the aforementioned crimped composite fiber. In the knitted fabric comprising the crimped conjugate fiber which utilizes water wetting to improve gas permeability, the woven fabric has a circular braided structure, and the circularly wound yarn loop may also contain the crimped conjugate fiber and The sliver of the other fibers described above is formed. 8 1354041 In the knitted fabric comprising the crimped conjugate fiber which utilizes water wetting to improve gas permeability, the knitted fabric is a woven fabric, and the yarn containing the crimped conjugate fiber is a blend of the crimped conjugate fiber and the other fiber. The sliver, in addition, the warp and weft of the fabric, or the warp or weft may be formed by the blended yarn of the crimped composite fiber and the other fibers.

本發明之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有捲縮複合纖維 的編織物中,在前述編織物中,由前述捲縮複合纖維構成 之紗條與由前述其他纖維構成之紗條亦可在選自經方向與 緯方向中之至少1方向、或在選自橫方向與縱方向中之至少 ίο 1方向上,配置成至少1支1支相互交錯。 本發明之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有捲縮複合纖維 的編織物中,前述捲縮複合纖維與前述其他纖維係形成為 芯/鞘型複合紗條者,且前述複合紗條之芯部係由前述複合 纖維構成,而鞘部則以由前述其他纖維構成者為佳。 15 本發明之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有捲縮複合纖維 的編織物中,前述其他纖維以選自聚酯纖維者為佳。 本發明之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有捲縮複合纖維 的編織物中,該編織物亦可經吸水劑加工。 本發明之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有捲縮複合纖維 20 的編織物中,該編織物亦可經施行撥水劑加工。 本發明之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有捲縮複合纖維 的編織物中,該編織物亦可經施行染色加工。 本發明之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有捲縮複合纖維 的編織物中,將前述編織物之試驗試料在溫度20°C、濕度 9 1354041 65%RH之環境下放置24小時並乾燥而調製成乾燥試料,另 外,將前述編織物之試驗試料浸潰在溫度30°C的水中2小 時,再由水中拉起前述試料,且在拉起後60秒以内,於溫 度30°C、濕度90%RH之空氣中將前述試料夾於1對濾紙之 5 間,並將前述試料置於490N/m2(50kgf/m2)之壓力下1分鐘, 輕輕地去除前述試料中的水分而調製成水濕潤試料,並對 前述乾燥試料與前述水濕潤試料進行依據 JIS.L1096_1998_6.27.1 A法(弗拉吉型(Frazi丨·type)透氣試驗 機法)之透氣性測量,由所得之測量結果,藉下式計算出之 10 透氣性變化率為30%以上者為佳。 透氣性變化率(%) = 〔(水濕潤試料透氣性)一(乾燥試料透氣性)〕In the knitted fabric comprising the crimped conjugate fiber which is improved in water permeability by water wetting, in the woven fabric, the yarn constituting the crimped conjugate fiber and the yarn constituting the other fiber may be selected from the group consisting of At least one of the direction and the weft direction, or at least one of the lateral direction and the longitudinal direction, is arranged such that at least one of the branches is interlaced. In the knitted fabric comprising the crimped conjugate fiber which is moistened by water and which has improved gas permeability, the crimped conjugate fiber and the other fiber are formed into a core/sheath type composite yarn, and the core of the composite yarn is It is composed of the above-mentioned composite fiber, and the sheath portion is preferably composed of the other fibers described above. In the knitted fabric comprising the crimped conjugate fiber which is moisturized by water and moisturizing according to the present invention, the other fiber is preferably selected from the group consisting of polyester fibers. In the knitted fabric comprising the crimped conjugate fiber which utilizes water wetting to improve gas permeability, the woven fabric can also be processed by a water absorbing agent. In the woven fabric containing the crimped conjugate fiber 20 which is moistened with water and moisturized by the present invention, the woven fabric can also be processed by applying a water repellent. In the knitted fabric comprising the crimped conjugate fiber which is moistened by water and which improves the gas permeability, the knitted fabric can also be subjected to dyeing processing. In the knitted fabric containing the crimped conjugate fiber which is moistened with water and moistened by the present invention, the test sample of the woven fabric is allowed to stand in an environment of a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 9 1354041 65% RH for 24 hours and dried to prepare a woven fabric. The test sample was dried, and the test sample of the knitted fabric was immersed in water at a temperature of 30 ° C for 2 hours, and the sample was pulled up from the water, and within 60 seconds after the pull-up, at a temperature of 30 ° C and a humidity of 90%. The sample was sandwiched between 5 pairs of filter paper in the air of RH, and the sample was placed under a pressure of 490 N/m 2 (50 kgf/m 2 ) for 1 minute, and the moisture in the sample was gently removed to prepare a water-wet. The sample was subjected to the gas permeability measurement according to the method of JIS.L1096_1998_6.27.1A (Frazi® type gas permeability tester method), and the obtained measurement result was taken from the dried sample and the water-wet sample. It is better to calculate a gas permeability change rate of 30% or more. Gas permeability change rate (%) = [(water wet sample gas permeability) - (dry sample gas permeability)]

(乾燥試料透氣性) xlQQ 本發明之藉由水濕潤可逆性地擴大尺寸,使透氣性提(Dry sample gas permeability) xlQQ The present invention reversibly expands the size by water wetting to improve the gas permeability.

问之衣服係包含有本發明之前述含有捲縮複合纖維之編織 物者。 15 科明之衣服中,前述含有捲縮複合纖維之編織物係 形成為該衣服之腋窩部、側體部、胸部、背部及肩部中至 少一者為佳。 ,發月之衣服中’由别述含有捲縮複合纖維的編織物 所形成之各部分係具有㈤以上的面積者為佳。 20 林明之衣服中’前述含有捲縮複合纖維之編織物以 選自圓編物及網狀粗孔編織物者為佳。 本發明之衣服包含有外衣用衣服、運動用衣服、及内 10 1354041 衣用衣服。The clothes to be coated are those comprising the aforementioned knitted fabric containing crimped composite fibers of the present invention. In the clothing of the kemin, the woven fabric containing the crimped conjugate fiber is preferably formed into at least one of the armpit portion, the side body portion, the chest, the back, and the shoulder of the garment. In the clothes of the moon, it is preferable that each portion formed of the knitted fabric containing the crimped conjugate fiber has an area of (f) or more. 20 In the clothes of Lin Ming, the knitted fabric containing the crimped conjugate fiber is preferably selected from the group consisting of a circular knitted fabric and a mesh coarse-woven fabric. The clothes of the present invention include clothes for outerwear, sports clothes, and clothes for clothing.

本發明之含有捲縮複合纖維之編織物所包含之捲縮複 合纖維中,其捲縮率具有在水濕潤時相較於乾燥時小於 10%以上之特性,因此,含有該捲縮複合纖維之編織物相 5 較於乾燥時,在水濕潤時其透氣性會顯著提高。此外,本 發明之含有捲縮複合纖維的編織物,在使用於作為構成外 衣、運動衣、及内衣用衣服之全體或一部分的材料時,在 因穿著該衣服時之出汗等而水濕潤時提高該衣服的透氣 性,且乾燥排出在衣服内滯留之水分,又,在衣服充分乾 10 燥時減低透氣性、提高保溫性,因此穿著者之穿著觸感可 常維持良好狀態,且對維持良好健康具有貢獻。 圖式簡單說明 第1圖係顯示一個本發明編織物所包含之並列型捲縮 複合纖維截面形狀例的截面說明圖。 15 第2圖係顯示其他本發明編織物所包含之並列型捲縮 複合纖維截面形狀例的截面說明圖。 第3圖係再顯示其他本發明編織物所包含之並列型捲 縮複合纖維截面形狀例的截面說明圖。 第4圖係顯示一個本發明所包含之偏心芯鞘型捲縮複 20 合纖維截面形狀例的截面說明圖。 第5圖係顯示由本發明編織物形成,且利用水濕潤提高 透氣性之複數個部分配置在前面之衣服(襯衫)的正面說明 圖。 第6圖係顯示由本發明編織物形成,且利用水濕潤提高 11 1354041 透氣性之單一部分配置在前胸之衣服(襯衫)的正面說明圖。 第7圖係顯示由本發明編織物形成,且具有利用水濕潤 提高透氣性之袖底部分與側體部分的衣服(襯衫)的正面說 明圖。 5 第8圖係顯示本發明(實施例1)之衣服(襯衫)與本發明The crimped composite fiber contained in the knitted fabric comprising the crimped conjugate fiber of the present invention has a crimping ratio of less than 10% or more when wetted with water, and therefore contains the crimped composite fiber. When the knit phase 5 is dry, its gas permeability is remarkably improved when the water is wet. Moreover, when the knitted fabric containing the crimped conjugate fiber of the present invention is used as a material constituting all or part of the outer garment, the sportswear, and the underwear, when the water is wet due to sweating or the like when the garment is worn, Improve the breathability of the garment, dry and discharge the moisture retained in the garment, and reduce the breathability and improve the heat retention when the garment is fully dry. Therefore, the wearer's wearing feel can be maintained in a good state and maintained. Good health contributes. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS Fig. 1 is a cross-sectional explanatory view showing an example of a cross-sectional shape of a side-by-side crimped composite fiber included in the knitted fabric of the present invention. Fig. 2 is a cross-sectional explanatory view showing an example of a cross-sectional shape of a side-by-side crimped composite fiber included in another knitted fabric of the present invention. Fig. 3 is a cross-sectional explanatory view showing an example of a cross-sectional shape of a side-by-side type crimped composite fiber included in another knitted fabric of the present invention. Fig. 4 is a cross-sectional explanatory view showing an example of a cross-sectional shape of an eccentric core-sheath type crimped 20-fiber comprising the present invention. Fig. 5 is a front elevational view showing a garment (shirt) formed of a knitted fabric of the present invention and having a plurality of portions which are moistened with water to improve the gas permeability. Fig. 6 is a front explanatory view showing a garment (shirt) which is formed of the woven fabric of the present invention and which is air-wet-enhanced to improve the air permeability of 11 1354041. Fig. 7 is a front elevational view showing a garment (shirt) formed of the woven fabric of the present invention and having a cuff bottom portion and a side body portion which are moisturized by water to improve the gas permeability. 5 Fig. 8 shows a garment (shirt) of the present invention (Example 1) and the present invention

外(比較例1)之衣服(襯衫)穿著於人體,且進行靜止(有風 1.5m/s)—慢跑—靜止(無風狀態)—靜止(有風1.5m/s)之穿著 實驗時,人體皮膚與襯衫間之空隙中的相對濕度變動圖表。 C實施方式3 10 實施發明之最佳形態 本發明之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有捲縮複合纖維 的編織物中所包含之捲縮複合纖維係由聚酯樹脂成分與聚 醯胺樹脂成分構成,且具有並列型或偏心芯鞘型複合纖維 構造者。 15 在並列型複合纖維方面,例如具有第1圖所示之大致圓 形截面形狀之情況下,由聚酯樹脂成分構成之部份1與由聚 醯胺樹脂成分構成之部份2係以並列關係接合,並且呈沿著 複合纖維長轴延伸之狀態,而形成為一體複合纖維。 在第2圖顯示之並列型複合纖維中,其截面形狀係橢圓 20 形,此時,部份1與部份2係沿著截面橢圓形狀之大致長軸 接合者為佳。 在具有第3圖所示之戴面形狀的並列型複合纖維中,包 含有由聚酯樹脂成分構成之部份1與由聚醯胺樹脂成分構 成之部份2,且部份2周面一部份2a向外側露出,剩餘周面 12 1354041 部分則與部份1接合。 在第3圖中,部份1係顯示成新月型截面形狀且由聚酯 樹脂成分構成,並且部份2係顯示成大致圓形截面形狀且由 聚醯胺樹脂成分構成,但是部份1亦可由聚醯胺樹脂成分構 5 成,部份2則可由聚酯樹脂成分構成。The outer (Comparative Example 1) clothes (shirts) were worn on the human body and were subjected to static (windy 1.5 m/s)-jogging-stationary (no wind)-stationary (windy 1.5 m/s) wearing test, human body A graph of relative humidity changes in the gap between the skin and the shirt. C. BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The preferred embodiment of the present invention comprises a crimped composite fiber comprising a crimped conjugate fiber which is moisturized by water and which is composed of a polyester resin component and a polyamide resin component. And has a side-by-side or eccentric core-sheath type composite fiber structure. In the case of the parallel type composite fiber, for example, in the case of having a substantially circular cross-sectional shape as shown in Fig. 1, the portion 1 composed of the polyester resin component and the portion 2 composed of the polyamide resin component are juxtaposed. The relationship is joined and stretched along the long axis of the composite fiber to form an integral composite fiber. In the side-by-side type composite fiber shown in Fig. 2, the cross-sectional shape thereof is elliptical in shape, and in this case, it is preferable that the portion 1 and the portion 2 are joined along a substantially long axis of the elliptical shape of the cross section. In the side-by-side type composite fiber having the wearing shape shown in Fig. 3, a portion 1 composed of a polyester resin component and a portion 2 composed of a polyamide resin component are contained, and a part of the surface is 2 The portion 2a is exposed to the outside, and the remaining portion of the peripheral surface 12 1354041 is joined to the portion 1. In Fig. 3, part 1 is shown in a crescent-shaped cross-sectional shape and is composed of a polyester resin component, and part 2 is shown in a substantially circular cross-sectional shape and is composed of a polyamide resin component, but part 1 It may also be composed of a polyamide resin component, and part 2 may be composed of a polyester resin component.

在具有第4圖所示之截面形狀的偏心芯鞘型複合纖維 中,部份2係由聚醯胺樹脂成分構成且包含於由聚酯樹脂成 分構成之部份1中,又,部份2之外周面並未朝外側露出, 且部份1之中心點1 a與部份2之中心點2 b不一致且相互八 10 離0 面輪廓形狀並不 角形、其他多角 由於聚酯樹脂成 :故在加熱前述 量互異,故在複 本發明編織物所包含之複合纖維的截 受限於第1〜4圖所示者,亦可為三角形、四 形等’或亦可為在内部具有中空部者。 在並列型與偏心芯鞘型複合纖維中, 15分與聚醯胺樹脂成分在熱收縮性方面互異 複合纖維時,由於部份丨與部份2之熱收縮 合纖維顯現捲縮狀態。 本發明之複合纖維截面形狀中,相互結合之部怜 份2的質量比以30:70〜7〇:3〇者為佳,又以與旬 20 佳 聚酯樹脂成分係包含有由丨種以上之芳香族一, 成的酸成分與由1種以上之烯二醇構成的二醇成分構 的縮聚生成物。 前述酸成分係包含有以 間 對苯二甲酸為主成分者 為佳, 13 1354041In the eccentric core-sheath type composite fiber having the cross-sectional shape shown in Fig. 4, part 2 is composed of a polyamide resin component and is contained in a portion 1 composed of a polyester resin component, and part 2 The outer peripheral surface is not exposed to the outside, and the center point 1 a of the portion 1 is inconsistent with the center point 2 b of the portion 2 and the mutual shape of the surface is not angular, and the other polygons are formed by the polyester resin: Since the amount of the conjugate fiber included in the woven fabric of the present invention is limited to the one shown in FIGS. 1 to 4, it may be a triangle, a quadrangle, or the like, or may have a hollow portion inside. By. In the side-by-side and eccentric core-sheath type composite fibers, when the 15 parts differ from the polyamide resin component in heat shrinkability, the heat shrinkage fibers of the partial enthalpy and the part 2 exhibit a crimped state. In the cross-sectional shape of the composite fiber of the present invention, the mass ratio of the portion 2 of the composite fiber is preferably 30:70 to 7:3, and the polyester resin component of the first and second layers is more than A polycondensation product of an aromatic component and a diol component composed of one or more kinds of olefinic diols. The acid component is preferably one containing terephthalic acid as a main component, 13 1354041

又,前述二醇成分係以乙二醇、丙二醇'丁二醇等為主成 分者為佳。此外,共聚成分係選自於績酸之驗金屬鹽基團、 鹼土類金屬鹽基團、及鎮鹽基團,且包含有具至少1個官能 基之化合物者為佳。即,聚酯樹脂成分最好包含聚乙烯酯 5 共聚物、聚丙烯酯共聚物、及聚丁烯酯共聚物等之變性聚 酯,而該等共聚物包含並以具有前述磺酸鹽基團為官能基 之芳香族二羧基作為共聚成分。又,具有前述磺酸鹽二醇 之共聚合用化合物在用以提高所得之聚酯樹脂成分對聚醯 胺樹脂成分之接合性方面相當有效。 10 本發明之編織物用捲縮複合纖維之聚酯樹脂成分為藉 由前述含有磺酸鹽基團之共聚成分產生變性之聚乙烯酯共 聚物,由於通用性優異、聚合物價格低廉,故特別適合使 用。 具有前述磺酸鹽基團之芳香族二羧酸係使用例如:5-15 鈉磺異苯二曱酸及其酯衍生物,並且,5-鱗異苯二甲酸及 其酯衍生物等,又,含有磺酸基基團之羥基化合物係使用 P-羥苯磺酸納等,且在該等化合物中,又以使用5-鈉磺異苯 二甲酸者為佳。此外,前述共聚成分含量係以其所包含之 聚酯聚合物的酸成分莫耳量為基本,且以2.0〜4.5莫耳%為 20 佳,又,前述共聚成分含量若小於2.0莫耳%,所得之複合 纖維性能雖然充分,但在所得之複合纖維内,由聚酯樹脂 成分構成之部份與由聚醯胺樹脂成分構成之部份間的結合 交介面會產生剝離。此外,前述共聚成分含量若超過4.5莫 耳%,在所得之未延伸複合纖維施加延伸熱處理時,會因 14 1354041 由聚酯樹脂成分構成之部份的結晶化不夠充分,而需要提 高延伸熱處理溫度,如此一來,則可能在延伸熱處理時常 發生斷絲。Further, the diol component is preferably a component such as ethylene glycol or propylene glycol 'butanediol. Further, the copolymerization component is preferably selected from the group consisting of a metal salt group, an alkaline earth metal salt group, and a salt group, and a compound having at least one functional group is preferred. That is, the polyester resin component preferably contains a modified polyester such as a polyvinyl ester 5 copolymer, a polypropylene ester copolymer, and a polybutene ester copolymer, and the copolymers contain and have the aforementioned sulfonate groups. The aromatic dicarboxy group which is a functional group is used as a copolymerization component. Further, the compound for copolymerization having the above sulfonate diol is effective for improving the bonding property of the obtained polyester resin component to the polyamide resin component. 10 The polyester resin component of the crimped conjugate fiber for a woven fabric of the present invention is a polyvinyl ester copolymer which is denatured by the above-mentioned copolymer component containing a sulfonate group, and is excellent in versatility and low in polymer cost. Suitable for use. The aromatic dicarboxylic acid having the aforementioned sulfonate group is, for example, 5-15 sodium sulfonyl isophthalic acid and an ester derivative thereof, and 5-quinoneisophthalic acid and an ester derivative thereof, etc. The hydroxy compound containing a sulfonic acid group is sodium p-hydroxybenzenesulfonate or the like, and among these compounds, 5-sodium sulfonate is preferably used. Further, the copolymerization component content is based on the amount of the acid component of the polyester polymer contained therein, and is preferably 2.0 to 4.5 mol%, and further, the copolymerization component content is less than 2.0 mol%. Although the obtained composite fiber has sufficient performance, in the obtained composite fiber, the interface between the portion composed of the polyester resin component and the portion composed of the polyamide resin component is peeled off. Further, when the content of the copolymerization component exceeds 4.5 mol%, when the obtained unstretched composite fiber is subjected to the elongation heat treatment, the crystallization of the portion composed of the polyester resin component of 14 1354041 is insufficient, and the elongation heat treatment temperature needs to be increased. As a result, it is possible to break the wire often during the elongation heat treatment.

聚醯胺樹脂係作為聚醯胺樹脂成分使用,且只要在其 5主鏈中具有醯胺結合,並具有纖維形成性即可,並不受限 於其種類,例如,在包含有耐隆-4、耐隆_6、耐隆_66、耐 隆-46、及对隆-12等該等種類中,以财隆·6與耐隆_66具有 通用性優異、聚合物價格較低、製造步驟穩定性高等優點, 相當適用於本發明。 10 前述聚酯樹脂成分與聚醯胺樹脂成分係分別相互獨 立,且亦可依需要包含有丨種以上之添加劑,例如:顏料、 去光劑、防污劑、螢光増白劑、阻焰劑、安定劑、靜電防 止劑、对光劑、及紫外線吸收劑等。 前述複合纖維之單纖維纖度與丨紗條所含之單纖維(單 15絲)之數(絲支數)雖並沒有特別限制,但單絲纖度以 1〜lOdtex之範圍内為佳,又以2〜5dtex者更佳,又,1紗條所 含之複合纖維的纖維數以1〇〜200支為佳,又以2〇〜100支更 佳。 此外’在本發明編織物内所含之複合纖維中,由聚醋 20樹脂成分構成之聚酯樹脂部份相較於由聚醯胺樹脂成分構 成之聚醯胺樹脂部份係具有較高的收縮性、及較高的吸濕 自行伸長性。 因此,一旦將本發明所使用之具有並列型或偏心芯鞘 型複合纖維構造的複合纖維加熱,由於聚醯胺樹脂部份會 15 1354041 較聚酯樹脂部份收縮更強,因此,可發現收縮量大之樹脂 部份位於内側,且收縮量小之樹脂部份位於外側之捲縮構 造。此外,將含有未捲縮纖維之紗條加熱,且在複合纖維 上發現捲縮時,所得之含有複合纖維的紗條會比未含捲縮 5複合纖維之紗條具有較南的蓬鬆·性’且其表觀紗長縮短。 一旦本發明所使用之捲縮複合纖維藉由水加以潤濕 時,在捲縮複合纖維中之聚醯胺樹脂部份會較聚酯樹脂部 份吸收更多量的水,且顯示更高之自行伸長值。(一般而 言,聚酯樹脂部份之利用水濕潤得到的自行伸長率幾近於 ίο 〇。)因此,經水濕潤之捲縮複合纖維的捲縮率低於乾燥捲 縮複合纖維的捲縮率,且經水濕潤之捲縮複合纖維的表觀 長度亦大於乾燥捲縮複合纖維之表觀長度。此外,當經水 濕潤之捲縮複合纖維乾燥後,聚醯胺樹脂部份雖會脫水收 縮,但聚酯樹脂部份幾乎沒有尺寸變化,因此在乾燥捲縮 15複合纖維中,其捲縮率會恢復原狀,且其表觀長度亦會恢 復原來的長度。 如前所述,本發明編織物所含之捲縮複合纖維係藉由 水濕潤減少其捲縮率,且增加纖維之表觀長度,並且利用 乾燥使捲縮率與表觀長度恢復原狀。因此,由含有具前述 20特性之捲縮複合纖維的紗條構成之編織物,其中捲縮複人 纖維捲縮率會因水濕潤而下降,使含有捲縮複合纖維之紗 條長度增加,且增加編織物中紗條間隙,因此其面積擴大 且其透氣性提高。 ' 前述編織物之透氣性可依據jIS L 1096-1998.6.27 ιΑ 16 1354041 法(弗拉吉型(Frazil-type)透氣性試驗機法)來測量。 在本發明之含有捲縮複合纖維的蝙織物中,其水濕潤 時之透氣性較乾燥時之透氣性要高這點相當重要,又,水 濕潤時之前述透氣性係以乾燥時之透氣性為基準,且以高 5於該麟時之透氣性的遞以上者為佳,Μ高於I5·。 者更佳。 透氣性變化率(%) = 〔(水濕潤試料透氣性氣丨土)〕 (乾燥試料透氣性) ><10〇 前述乾燥試料係指在溫度2(rc、濕度65%四之環境下 放置24小時後調製而成者,又,前述水濕潤試料係指浸潰 Π)在溫度赃的水中2小時’並由水中拉起前述簡,且在拉 起後60秒以内,於溫度3〇°C、濕度9〇%rH之空氣中,夾於i 對濾紙之間,並在前述試料上施加49〇N/m2(5〇kgf/m2)之壓 力1分鐘,且輕輕地去除前述試料中的水分調製而成者。 當前述透氣性變化率低於30%時,穿著含有經水濕潤 15之編織物的衣服且出汗時,衣服透氣性會不夠充分,此時, 使用者會因衣服而感到不通風感或悶熱感。 本發明之編織物所包含之前述捲縮複合纖維含有率為 10〜100質量%,且該含有率以4〇〜1〇〇質量%者為佳,又當 該含有率低於10質量%時,捲縮複合纖維之效果,即,所 20得編織物之水濕潤卜,乾燥以得透氣性增加<__>減少之可 逆變化則會不夠充分。 在本發明之編織物中,前述捲縮複合纖維係包含於構 17 成編織物之紗條中,且因水濕潤使捲縮複合纖維的捲縮率 降低,藉此,含有該捲縮複合纖維之紗條表觀長度增加, 結果,編織物面積擴大且紗條間隙增加。結果,透氣空隙 面積與透氣性會增加。 5 依據捲縮複合纖維之捲縮性降低或增加,含有前述捲 縮複合纖維之紗條則會有效率地增加或減少其表觀長度, 藉此,前述紗條係以具有0〜300T/m撚數之無撚紗條或弱撚 紗條者為佳,特別又以無撚紗條者更佳,以有效率地增加 或降低編織物之透氣性。一旦撚數超過300T/m時,由於紗 10 條内之捲縮複合纖維會相互限制其變形,故在水濕潤或乾 燥時,複合纖維之捲縮率變化亦會產生限制,因此,紗條 表觀長度變化亦會產生限制,進而限制編織物之透氣性變 化。 又,在含有捲縮纖維之紗條中,亦可施加交織空氣加 15 工及(或)假撚捲縮加工,此時,紗條内之纖維相互交纏數為 20〜60/m左右者為佳。 在前述含有捲縮複合纖維之紗條中,亦可含有與前述 捲縮複合纖維相異之其他纖維,且該其他纖維可選自於不 捲縮纖維、及前述捲縮率差DCF —HCFi值小於10%的纖 20 維。此外,構成前述其他纖維之聚合物種類並沒有特別限 制,可使用如:聚乙烯酯、聚三甲烯酯、聚丁烯酯等聚酯, 耐隆-6、耐隆-66等聚醯胺,聚乙烯、聚丙烯等聚烯烴,丙 烯酸、對位或間位芳香族聚醯胺及該等變性聚合物等。又, 前述其他纖維亦可選自於天然纖維、再生纖維、半合成纖 18 維等適用於衣料之纖維’其中,就濕潤時尺寸穩定性、與 則迷纖維之相性(混纖性、交編/交織性、染色性)等優點, 故以聚乙歸賴、聚丙稀醋、聚丁_,或由在該等中共聚 有則达共聚成分之變性聚醋構成的以纖維最為適合。 又,前述其他纖維之單纖維纖度、W條所含之單纖維數(絲 支數)雖沒有特別限制,但單纖維纖度以(U〜5dtex(又以 0.5〜2dtex者更佳)之範圍内者為佳,且丨紗條所含之單纖維 數錢〜200支(又以3(M⑻支者更佳)之範圍内者為佳以 提高編織物吸濕性,且高效率地提高賴時之透氣性。又, 亦可在其他纖維施加交織空氣加卫及(或)__般的假撚捲縮 加工’以使交纏數形成2〇〜60個/m左右。 在本發明之編織物中,前述捲縮複合纖維及其他纖維 分別由1種以上之紗條構成,且該等紗條亦可交錯編織,或 前述捲縮複合纖維與前述其他纖維亦可構成混纖紗條,因 此亦可使用空氣混纖法。此外,或是,前述捲縮複合纖維 紗條與其他纖維紗條亦可形成合撚紗或混紡紗’又,亦可 形成複合假樵捲縮加工、紗。 本發明編織物之編織組織與編織層數並沒有限制,且 該編織組織包含如:平織、斜紋織、锻紋織等織組織,平 針織、圓形羅紋針織、交替集圈針織、添紗編、單梳櫛經 平組織編、雙梳櫛經平組織編等編組織,又,前述編織組 織係包含有個別單層組織與2層以上之多層組織。 在本發明之編織物中,為確保編織物中之捲縮纖維可 動性、變形矸能性(捲縮變化可能性),故以具有朝經方向及 1354041 (或)緯方向之伸縮可能性者為佳,且該伸縮率為祕以上者 為佳(又以20%以上者較佳,又以25〜15〇%者更佳 接著,在本發明之編織物中,該編織物所含之前述複 合纖維係具有潛在捲縮性能顯現之捲縮構造,且前述複合 5纖維乾燥時之捲縮率為DCf(%)、吸濕時之捲縮率為He〆。〆。) 時 ’ DCf - HCf g 1 〇(%)(又以 5〇(%) 2 DCf — HCf ^ i 〇(%)者為 佳)這點極為重要,又,當DCf_HCf小於1〇%時,在吸濕時 則可能比乾燥時無法更高效率地提昇透氣性,而不適用。 在此’在編織物中之捲縮複合纖維捲縮率係藉由以下 10方法進行測量:首先,將編織物在溫度20°C、濕度65%RH 之空氣中放置24小時後,由該編織物裁斷出與編織物同方 向之30cmx30cm之小片(n數=5)。接著,由各個小片取出複 合纖維,且在該複合纖維試料上施加1.76mN/dtex(200mg/de) 之負重以測量纖維長LOf,且在除重1分鐘後施加 15 〇.〇176mN/dtex(2mg/de)之負重以測量纖維長Llf。然後,將 該複合纖維試料浸潰於溫度30°C之水中2小時,並由水中拉 起前述試料,且在拉起後60秒以内,於溫度30°C、濕度 90%RH之空氣中,將其夾於1對濾紙之間,並在前述試料上 施加0.69mN/cm2之壓力5秒後,輕輕地由前述試料拭去水 20 分,且在前述試料上施加1.76mN/dtex(200mg/de)之負重以 測量纖維長LOf’,且在除重1分鐘後,施加 0.0176mN/dtex(2mg/de)之負重以測量纖維長Llf’。根據前 述測量結果,由下式計算出乾燥時之捲縮率DCF(%)與水濕 潤之捲縮率HCF(%)。 20 乾燥時捲縮率 DCF(%) = ((LOf — L1 f)/LOf)x 100 吸濕時捲縮率 HCF(%) = ((LOf ’ 一 L1 f ’ )/L0f,)x 100 由前述DCF與HCF計算出其差(DCF —HCF),且此時n數 為5 ’並算出其平均值。 5 本發明之編織物亦可施加有吸水劑加工,且藉由對編 織物施加吸水加工,即使是少量汗量亦可輕易提高透氣 性,又,施加之吸水加工為一般吸水加工即可,在編織物 上附著有例如聚乙烯乙二醇二丙烯酸及其衍生物,或聚乙 缔Sb - 乙稀乙一醇共聚物等吸水加工劑,且該吸水加工劑 10相對編織物重量以附著有0.25〜0.50重量%者為佳。此外, 吸水加工方法包含有:如染色加工時將吸水加工劑混合於 染液之染浴加工法、乾熱終凝前浸潰於吸水加工液中且利 用軋輥碾壓之方法、凹版塗模法、網板印花法等利用塗布 之加工方法等。 15 又,本發明之撥水性編織物亦可施加撥水加工,且施 加一般撥水處理即可,例如,在特許第3133227號公報及特 公平4-5786號公報中揭示之方法則相當適用,即,一種使 用市售氟系撥水劑(例如,旭硝子(株)(ASAHI GLASS Co.,Ltd> 製、7甘匕方一 KLS-317)作為撥水劑,且依需要混合三聚 20 氰胺樹脂、催化劑而製成撥水劑濃度約3〜15重量%之加工 劑,且以壓吸率50〜90%左右來利用該加工劑處理編織物表 面之方法’又’利用加工劑處理編織物表面之方法亦可舉 例如壓吸法、喷霧法等,其中又以加工劑可浸透至編織物 内部之壓吸法最佳。 21 1354041 又,前述壓吸率係指相對加工劑之編織物(賦與加工劑 前)重量的重量比例(%)。 撥水加工後之編織物撥水性係依據JIS L 1092 6_2(噴霧 試驗)測量時之評價分為4分以上者為佳,又以5分(最高分) 5 者更佳。 如此所得之撥水性編織物中,由於在吸濕時有效率地 降低編織物所含之複合纖維捲縮率,故複合纖維紗長變 長’結果’編織物中之空隙變大且透氣性提高;另一方面, 由於在乾燥時提高複合纖維捲縮率,故複合纖維紗長變 10 短’結果,編織物中之空隙變短且透氣性降低。 本發明之編織物亦可為經染色加工者,且以下詳細說 明染色加工條件等。 在本發明中,編織物之態樣可舉例如:(1)編織物係2 層以上之多層構造編織物,且在該編織物之至少一層中包 15含有構成該層總纖維重量之30重量%以上的前述複合纖維 者’(2)前述複合纖維與其他纖維形成為圓編組織之複合紗 線圏者’(3)前述複合纖維與其他纖維加以混紡且編配成織 且織之經紗及(或)緯紗者;(4)前述複合纖維與其他纖維係 #個編織物之構造紗條,且編配成丨支相互交錯或複數支相 互交錯者,(5)編織物中包含有前述複合纖維與其他纖維, 且幵v成複合纖維配置於忍部且其他纖維配置於鞘部之芯鞘 型複合紗者等。 此外’若在編織物中包含有前述複合纖維與其他纖 、食在乾燥時’當複合纖維之纖維長度為(A),且其他纖維 22 1354041 之纖維長度為(B)時,在A<B之情況下,於濕潤睛透氣性可 輕易提高;相對地,在A>B或A = B之情況下,複舍纖維因 濕潤而捲縮率降低並伸張時,因沒有多餘量,其他纖維無 法隨之伸張,因此編織物空隙率降低,在濕潤時透氣性可 5 能無法提高。The polyamide resin is used as a polyamide component, and it is not limited to its kind as long as it has a mercapto bond in its 5 main chain, and is not limited to its kind, for example, it contains a rhenium- 4. Among these types, such as Nylon _6, Nylon _66, Nylon-46, and Dylon-12, Cailong·6 and Nylon _66 have excellent versatility, low polymer prices, and manufacturing. The advantages of high step stability and the like are quite suitable for the present invention. 10 The polyester resin component and the polyamide resin component are independent of each other, and may further contain an additive of more than one type, such as a pigment, a delustering agent, an antifouling agent, a fluorescent whitening agent, and a flame retardant. Agent, stabilizer, antistatic agent, light agent, and ultraviolet absorber. The single fiber fineness of the composite fiber and the number of single fibers (single 15 filaments) contained in the crepe yarn are not particularly limited, but the single yarn fineness is preferably in the range of 1 to 10 dtex, and 2 to 5 dtex is more preferable, and the number of fibers of the composite fiber contained in one yarn is preferably from 1 to 200, and more preferably from 2 to 100. Further, in the composite fiber contained in the woven fabric of the present invention, the polyester resin portion composed of the polyester resin component is higher than the polyamide resin component composed of the polyamide resin component. Shrinkage, and high moisture self-expandability. Therefore, once the composite fiber having the side-by-side or eccentric core-sheath type composite fiber structure used in the present invention is heated, since the polyamidamide resin portion 15 1554041 is more strongly shrunk than the polyester resin portion, shrinkage can be found. The resin portion having a large amount is located on the inner side, and the resin portion having a small amount of shrinkage is located on the outer crimping structure. In addition, when the yarn containing the un-crimped fiber is heated and the crimp is found on the composite fiber, the obtained yarn containing the composite fiber has a southerly fluffiness than the yarn without the crimped 5 composite fiber. 'And its apparent yarn length is shortened. When the crimped composite fiber used in the present invention is wetted by water, the polyamid resin portion in the crimped composite fiber absorbs a larger amount of water than the polyester resin portion, and the display is higher. Self-extension value. (In general, the self-elongation of the polyester resin portion by water wetting is close to ίο 〇.) Therefore, the crimp ratio of the water-wet crimped composite fiber is lower than that of the dry crimped composite fiber. The apparent length of the water-wet crimped composite fiber is also greater than the apparent length of the dried crimped composite fiber. In addition, when the water-wet crimped composite fiber is dried, the polyamide resin portion is dehydrated and shrunk, but the polyester resin portion has almost no dimensional change, so in the dry crimped 15 composite fiber, the crimp ratio thereof Will return to its original state, and its apparent length will also return to its original length. As described above, the crimped composite fiber contained in the woven fabric of the present invention reduces the crimp ratio by water wetting, increases the apparent length of the fiber, and restores the crimp ratio and the apparent length by drying. Therefore, the woven fabric comprising the yarn of the crimped conjugate fiber having the above-mentioned 20 characteristics, wherein the crimping rate of the rewound fiber is lowered by the wetting of the water, and the length of the yarn containing the crimped conjugate fiber is increased, and The gap of the sliver in the braid is increased, so that the area is enlarged and the gas permeability is improved. The gas permeability of the aforementioned woven fabric can be measured in accordance with JIS L 1096-1998.6.27 ιΑ 16 1354041 (Frazil-type gas permeability tester method). In the bat fabric containing the crimped conjugate fiber of the present invention, it is important that the gas permeability when the water is wet is higher than the air permeability when it is wet, and the gas permeability when the water is wet is the gas permeability during drying. For the reference, it is better to use a gas with a height of 5 higher than that of the lining, and Μ is higher than I5·. Better. Gas permeability change rate (%) = [(water wet sample gas permeable gas soil)] (dry sample gas permeability) ><10 〇 The aforementioned dry sample means the temperature 2 (rc, humidity 65% environment) After being placed for 24 hours, the water-wet sample is referred to as "immersed in water at a temperature of 2 hours" and pulled up by water, and within 60 seconds after pulling up, at a temperature of 3 〇. In the air of °C and humidity 9〇%rH, sandwiched between i and filter paper, and apply a pressure of 49〇N/m2 (5〇kgf/m2) to the sample for 1 minute, and gently remove the above sample. The moisture in the process is modulated. When the gas permeability change rate is less than 30%, when the clothes containing the knitted fabric of the water-wet 15 are worn and sweating, the breathability of the clothes may be insufficient, and at this time, the user may feel unventilated or stuffy due to the clothes. sense. The content of the crimped conjugate fiber contained in the woven fabric of the present invention is preferably 10 to 100% by mass, and the content is preferably 4 〇 to 1% by mass, and when the content is less than 10% by mass. The effect of crimping the composite fiber, that is, the wetting of the water of the knitted fabric of 20, drying to obtain an increase in gas permeability <__> reduction of the reversible change may be insufficient. In the woven fabric of the present invention, the crimped composite fiber is contained in a yarn of a woven fabric of 17, and the crimping ratio of the crimped conjugate fiber is lowered by water wetting, thereby containing the crimped conjugate fiber. The apparent length of the sliver is increased, and as a result, the area of the braid is enlarged and the gap of the sliver is increased. As a result, the air permeable void area and air permeability are increased. 5 According to the reduction or increase of the crimping property of the crimped composite fiber, the yarn containing the aforementioned crimped composite fiber can effectively increase or decrease the apparent length thereof, whereby the yarn is 0 to 300 T/m. It is preferred that the number of untwisted yarns or weak crepe yarns is particularly good, especially those without crepe yarns, in order to increase or decrease the permeability of the woven fabric efficiently. Once the number of turns exceeds 300 T/m, since the crimped composite fibers in the yarn 10 will mutually restrict their deformation, when the water is wet or dry, the crimping rate of the composite fiber also changes, so the yarn table There is also a limit to the change in length, which in turn limits the change in the permeability of the braid. Further, in the yarn containing the crimped fiber, interlaced air plus 15 and/or false twist crimping may be applied. At this time, the number of interlacing fibers in the sliver is about 20 to 60/m. It is better. The yarn containing the crimped conjugate fiber may further contain other fibers different from the crimped conjugate fiber, and the other fiber may be selected from the non-crimped fiber and the aforementioned DCF-HCFi value. Less than 10% of the fiber 20 dimensions. Further, the type of the polymer constituting the other fibers is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include polyesters such as polyvinyl ester, polytrimethylene ester, and polybutenyl ester, and polyamines such as Nylon-6 and Nylon-66. Polyolefins such as polyethylene and polypropylene, acrylic acid, para or meta-aramid, and such denatured polymers. Further, the other fibers may be selected from natural fibers, regenerated fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, and the like, which are suitable for clothing fibers, such as dimensional stability in wetness and phase compatibility with fibers (mixing properties, blending). The fiber/interlacing property, dyeing property, and the like are advantageous, and it is most suitable for the fiber composed of polyacetal, polypropylene acrylate, polybutylene, or denatured polyester which is copolymerized with the copolymerized component. Further, the single fiber fineness of the other fibers and the number of single fibers (the number of filaments) contained in the W are not particularly limited, but the single fiber fineness is in the range of (U to 5 dtex (more preferably 0.5 to 2 dtex). It is better, and the number of single fibers contained in the crepe bar is ~200 (more preferably 3 (M(8)) is better to improve the moisture absorption of the woven fabric, and to improve the efficiency efficiently. In addition, it is also possible to apply interlaced air to the other fibers and/or a false twist crimping process to form an interlacing number of about 2 to 60/m. In the woven fabric, the crimped conjugate fiber and the other fibers are each composed of one or more types of yarns, and the yarn yams may be interlaced, or the crimped conjugate fiber and the other fibers may constitute a mixed yarn. It is also possible to use the air-mixing method. Alternatively, the crimped composite fiber yarn and the other fiber yarns may form a twisted yarn or a blended yarn, and a composite false twist crimping process or yarn may be formed. There is no limitation on the number of braided tissues and braid layers of the inventive braid, and the braided tissue Such as: plain weave, twill weave, woven weave and other weave, jersey, circular rib knit, alternating tuck knit, add yarn weaving, single comb 栉 平 flat organization, double comb 栉 平 flat organization, etc. Further, the weave structure includes a single layer structure and a multilayer structure of two or more layers. In the woven fabric of the present invention, in order to ensure the detachability of the crimped fibers in the woven fabric, deformation versatility (volume change possibility) Therefore, it is preferable to have a tendency to expand and contract in the direction of the warp direction and the 1354041 (or) weft direction, and it is preferable that the stretch ratio is more than 20% or more, and 25 to 15% by weight. More preferably, in the woven fabric of the present invention, the conjugate fiber contained in the woven fabric has a crimped structure in which the crimping property is manifested, and the crimping ratio of the composite 5 fiber when dried is DCf (%). , the shrinkage rate when moisture absorption is He〆.〆.) When 'DCf - HCf g 1 〇 (%) (again 5〇(%) 2 DCf — HCf ^ i 〇 (%) is better) It is extremely important, and when DCf_HCf is less than 1〇%, it may not be able to lift more efficiently when it is wet. It is not applicable. Here, the crimping ratio of the crimped composite fiber in the braid is measured by the following 10 methods: First, the braid is placed in the air at a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH. After 24 hours, a small piece (n number = 5) of 30 cm x 30 cm in the same direction as the woven fabric was cut out from the woven fabric. Then, the conjugate fiber was taken out from each piece, and 1.76 mN/dtex (200 mg/) was applied to the conjugate fiber sample. De) The load was measured to measure the fiber length LOf, and a load of 15 〇.〇176 mN/dtex (2 mg/de) was applied after 1 minute of de-weighting to measure the fiber length Llf. Then, the composite fiber sample was impregnated at a temperature of 30 2 ° water in °C, and pull the sample from the water, and within 60 seconds after pulling, in the air at a temperature of 30 ° C, humidity 90% RH, sandwiched between a pair of filter paper, and After applying a pressure of 0.69 mN/cm 2 to the above sample for 5 seconds, the water was gently wiped off from the sample for 20 minutes, and a load of 1.76 mN/dtex (200 mg/de) was applied to the sample to measure the fiber length LOf'. And after removing the weight for 1 minute, a load of 0.0176 mN/dtex (2 mg/de) was applied to measure the fiber length Llf'. Based on the above measurement results, the crimp ratio DCF (%) at the time of drying and the curl ratio HCF (%) of water wetness were calculated by the following formula. 20 Crimping rate DCF (%) = ((LOf - L1 f) / LOf) when dry 100 Crimping rate HCF (%) = ((LOf '-L1 f ') / L0f,) x 100 by moisture absorption The DCF and HCF calculate the difference (DCF - HCF), and the n number is 5 ' at this time and the average value is calculated. 5 The woven fabric of the present invention can also be processed by applying a water absorbing agent, and by applying water absorbing treatment to the woven fabric, the gas permeability can be easily improved even with a small amount of sweat, and the water absorbing treatment applied can be generally water absorbing processing. A water-absorbent processing agent such as polyethylene glycol diacrylic acid and a derivative thereof, or a polyethylene-Sb-ethylene-ethylidene copolymer is attached to the woven fabric, and the water absorbing agent 10 is attached with a weight of 0.25 to the woven fabric. 0.50% by weight is preferred. In addition, the water absorption processing method includes: a dye bath processing method in which a water absorbing processing agent is mixed in a dyeing liquid during dyeing processing, a method of immersing in a water absorbing processing liquid before dry heat and condensing, and a method of rolling by a roll, gravure coating method The stencil printing method and the like use a coating processing method or the like. Further, the water-repellent woven fabric of the present invention may be subjected to a water-repellent process, and a general water-repellent treatment may be applied. For example, the method disclosed in Japanese Patent No. 3,133,227 and Japanese Patent Publication No. Hei. That is, a commercially available fluorine-based water repellent (for example, Asahi Glass Co., Ltd. (ASAHI GLASS Co., Ltd., 7 Ganzifang-KLS-317) is used as a water repellent, and trimeric 20 cyanide is mixed as needed. The amine resin and the catalyst are used to prepare a processing agent having a water repellent concentration of about 3 to 15% by weight, and the method for treating the surface of the knitted fabric by using the processing agent at a pressure absorption ratio of about 50 to 90% is further processed by a processing agent. The method of the surface of the fabric may also be, for example, a pressure suction method, a spray method, etc., wherein the pressurization method in which the processing agent can be impregnated into the inside of the braid is optimal. 21 1354041 Further, the aforementioned pressure suction ratio refers to a relative processing agent. Weight ratio (%) of the weight of the fabric (before the processing agent). The water repellency of the woven fabric after water repellency is better than 4 points or more according to the JIS L 1092 6_2 (spray test) measurement, and 5 points (highest score) 5 is better. In the water-repellent woven fabric, since the shrinkage ratio of the composite fiber contained in the woven fabric is efficiently reduced during moisture absorption, the length of the composite fiber yarn becomes longer, and the void in the woven fabric becomes larger and the gas permeability is improved; On the other hand, since the conjugate fiber shrinkage rate is increased during drying, the length of the composite fiber yarn becomes 10 short. As a result, the voids in the woven fabric become short and the gas permeability is lowered. The woven fabric of the present invention can also be a dyed processor, and Hereinafter, the dyeing processing conditions and the like will be described in detail. In the present invention, for example, (1) a multilayer structure knitted fabric having two or more layers of a woven fabric, and at least one layer of the knitted fabric contains a composition 15 30% by weight or more of the total fiber weight of the composite fiber of the composite fiber ('2) The composite fiber and the other fiber are formed into a composite yarn of a circular structure' (3) The composite fiber is blended with other fibers and knitted (4) the woven fabric of the woven fabric and the other woven fabrics, and the braided yarns of the other woven fabrics are arranged in a staggered manner or interlaced with each other. 5) The woven fabric includes the conjugate fiber and the other fiber, and the 幵v is a core-sheath type composite yarn in which the conjugate fiber is disposed in the forbearing portion and the other fibers are disposed in the sheath portion. When the composite fiber and other fibers and food are dry, when the fiber length of the composite fiber is (A), and the fiber length of the other fiber 22 1354041 is (B), in the case of A < B, the gas permeability of the wet eye can be Conveniently, in the case of A > B or A = B, when the folding fiber is reduced due to wetting and the stretch ratio is reduced, the other fibers cannot be stretched because there is no excess amount, so the void ratio of the knitted fabric is lowered. , when it is wet, the gas permeability can not be improved.

在此’藉由以下方法進行纖維長度之測量:首先’將 編織物在溫度20。(:、濕度65%RH之空氣中放置24小時後, 由該編織物裁斷出3〇cmx30cm之小片(η數=5)。接著’由各 個小片1支1支地取出複合纖維紗條與其他纖維紗條’測量 10 複合纖維紗條中之纖維長度A (m m)與其他纖維紗條中之纖 維長度B(mm)。此時,若為非彈性紗則施加 l,76mN/dtex(200mg/de)之負重,若為彈性紗則施加 0.0088mN/dtex(lmg/de)之負重加以測量。在此,由小片取 出之複合纖維紗條與其他纖維紗條需要在編織物中為同一 15 方向者’例如,若由織物之經紗(緯紗)取出複合纖維紗條 時’則需要由經紗(緯紗)取出另一方之其他纖維紗條。此 外’若利用複合纖維紗條與其他纖維紗條作為複合紗構成 編織物時,則由業經裁斷之小片(30cmx30cm)取出複合紗(η 數=5),接著由複合紗取出複合纖維紗條與其他纖維紗條 2〇 且與前述相同地進行測量。 如前述般,在複合纖維紗條與其他纖維紗條之間提供 纖維長度ΑΒ差之方法可舉以下方法為例。例如,使用複合 纖維紗條與其他纖維紗條,且編織前述編織物時,將其他 纖維紗條之沸水收縮率調整為丨5%以下(又以10%以下為佳) 23 1354041 之方法、或在複合加工複合纖維紗條與其他纖維紗條時, 使其他纖維紗條超喂之方法等。 在本發明之編織物中,為確保编織物中之複合纖維可 動性(捲縮變化),單位面積質量以300g/m2以下(又以 5 100〜250g/m2更佳)者為佳。 可藉由如以下製造方法容易地得到本發明之編織物。 首先,使用固有黏度〇.3〇〜〇 43(正氣酚溶液為溶劑且於 35 C下測量)之共聚合有2.〇〜4.5莫耳%之5-鈉磺異苯二甲酸 的變性聚酯、及使用固有粘度1.0〜1.4(間曱酚為溶劑且於30 10 C下測罝)之聚醯胺,且利用並列型或偏心芯鞘型複合纖維 用紡絲喷嘴進行熔融複合紡紗。此時,聚酯樹脂成分之固 有黏度為0.43以下這點特別重要。又,一旦聚酯樹脂成分 之固有黏度大於0.43時,由於聚酯成分黏度增加,複合纖 維物性會接近聚酯單獨紗,故無法得到本發明之目的編織 15物而不適用;相對地,一旦聚酯樹脂成分之固有黏度低於 0.30時,熔融黏度則會過低,而可能造成製紗性降低,並 且絨毛產生增加’及品質與生產性降低。 溶融纺紗時使用之紡紗喷嘴係如特開2〇〇〇_144518號 公報之第1圖所示,分離成高黏度側與低黏度側之吐出孔, 20且最好為降低高黏度側之吐出線速度(增加吐出截面積)的 纺紗喷嘴。又,以炫融聚酯通過高黏度側吐出孔,且炫融 聚醯胺通過低黏度側吐出孔並冷卻固化者為佳。此時,聚 酯成分與聚醯胺成分之重量比,如前述般,在 30:70-70:30(又以40:60〜60:40者更佳)之範圍内為佳。 24 1354041 此外,熔融複合紡紗之後,可採用暫時捲取後延伸之 部份延伸方式’亦可採用不暫時捲取之延伸熱處理的直接 延伸方式,此時,紡紗/延伸條件為一般條件即可,例如, 若為直接延伸方式,則在約1〇〇〇〜3500m/分中紡紗後,於 5 1〇0〜15〇°c之溫度下連續延伸捲取。此外,延伸倍率適當選 擇即可’以形成在最終所得之複合纖維切斷伸度10〜60%(以 20〜45%為佳)左右,且切斷強度為3·〇〜4.7cN/dtex左右者。 在此,前述複合纖維以同時滿足下列要件(1)與(2)者為 佳。 10 ⑴乾燥時之複合纖維捲縮率DC係1.5〜13%(又以2〜6% 為佳)之範圍内者。 (2)捲縮率DC與水濕潤時之複合纖維捲縮率hc之差 (DC-HC)係0.5%以上(又以1〜5%為佳)者。 但是’乾燥時意指將試料在溫度2(TC、濕度65%RH之 15環境下放置24小時後的狀態,另一方面,濕潤時意指將試 料浸潰於溫度30°C的水中2小時之後不久的狀態,又,乾燥 時之捲縮率DC與濕潤時之捲縮率HC係利用下列方法測量 出之值。 首先’使用框周l_125m之搖紗框,施加負重:49/50mN 20 x9x總支數(O.lgfx總丹尼)且以固定速度絡紗,並製成卷 數:10圈之小絞,且絞繞該小絞以形成2層輪狀者中施加 49/2500mNx20x9x總支數(2mgx20x總丹尼)之初期負重而放 入沸水中處理30分,在該沸水處理之後利用i〇〇°c之乾燥機 供乾30分’然後,再度施加初期負重並放入16〇°C乾熱中處 25 1354041Here, the measurement of the fiber length is carried out by: firstly, the braid is at a temperature of 20. (:, after standing in the air with a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours, a small piece of 3〇cmx30cm (n number=5) was cut out from the knitted fabric. Then, the composite fiber yarn and other pieces were taken out from each small piece. The fiber sliver 'measures the fiber length A (mm) in the composite fiber sliver and the fiber length B (mm) in the other fiber sliver. At this time, if it is a non-elastic yarn, apply 1,76 mN/dtex (200 mg/ The load of de), if it is an elastic yarn, is measured by applying a load of 0.0088 mN/dtex (lmg/de). Here, the composite fiber yarn strip taken out from the small piece and the other fiber yarn strips need to be in the same 15 directions in the braid. For example, if the composite fiber sliver is taken out from the warp (weft) of the fabric, it is necessary to take out the other fiber sliver from the warp (weft). In addition, if the composite fiber sliver is used as a composite with other fiber slivers. When the yarn constitutes a woven fabric, the composite yarn (n number = 5) is taken out from the cut piece (30 cm x 30 cm), and then the composite fiber yarn is taken out from the composite yarn and the other fiber yarns 2 〇 and measured in the same manner as described above. As mentioned above, in composite fiber slivers The method for providing the difference in fiber length between the fiber slivers can be exemplified by the following methods. For example, when a composite fiber sliver and other fiber slivers are used, and the knit fabric is knitted, the boiling water shrinkage ratio of other fiber slivers is adjusted. It is a method of 5% or less (more preferably 10% or less) 23 1354041, or a method of super-feeding other fiber slivers in the composite processing of composite fiber slivers and other fiber slivers, etc. In the woven fabric, in order to ensure the movability (coiling change) of the composite fiber in the woven fabric, the mass per unit area is preferably 300 g/m 2 or less (more preferably 5 100 to 250 g/m 2 ). The woven fabric of the present invention can be easily obtained. First, a copolymer having an intrinsic viscosity of 〇.3〇~〇43 (a gas phenol solution is measured as a solvent and measured at 35 C) has a 〇~4.5 mol% of 5-sodium. Denatured polyester of sulfoisophthalic acid, and polyamine which has an intrinsic viscosity of 1.0 to 1.4 (m-phenol is a solvent and measured at 30 10 C), and is used for spinning with a side-by-side or eccentric core-sheath type composite fiber. The wire nozzle performs the melt compound spinning. At this time, It is particularly important that the intrinsic viscosity of the polyester resin component is 0.43 or less. Further, when the inherent viscosity of the polyester resin component is more than 0.43, the viscosity of the polyester component is increased, and the physical properties of the composite fiber are close to the polyester individual yarn, so the present invention cannot be obtained. The object of the invention is not suitable for weaving 15; relatively, once the inherent viscosity of the polyester resin component is less than 0.30, the melt viscosity is too low, which may result in a decrease in yarn making property and an increase in fluff generation and quality and production. The spinning nozzle used in the melt spinning is separated into the discharge holes on the high viscosity side and the low viscosity side, as shown in Fig. 1 of JP-A No. 2144518, and is preferably lowered. A spinning nozzle that spouts at a high viscosity side (increasing the discharge cross-sectional area). Further, it is preferable to discharge the pores through the high-viscosity side with the dazzling polyester, and to melt the polyamine to pass through the low-viscosity side discharge hole and to cool and solidify. In this case, the weight ratio of the polyester component to the polyamine component is preferably in the range of 30:70 to 70:30 (more preferably 40:60 to 60:40) as described above. 24 1354041 In addition, after the melt composite spinning, a partial extension method of stretching after the temporary winding may be employed, and a direct extension method of the extension heat treatment without temporary winding may be employed. In this case, the spinning/extension condition is a general condition. For example, in the case of the direct extension method, after spinning in about 1 to 3500 m/min, the winding is continuously extended at a temperature of 5 1 〇 0 to 15 〇 ° c. In addition, the stretching ratio can be appropriately selected to form a cut length of 10 to 60% (preferably 20 to 45%) of the composite fiber finally obtained, and the cutting strength is about 3. 〇 to 4.7 cN/dtex. By. Here, the above composite fiber is preferably one which satisfies the following requirements (1) and (2) at the same time. 10 (1) The composite fiber crimp ratio DC is 1.5 to 13% (more preferably 2 to 6%). (2) The difference between the crimp ratio DC and the composite fiber crimp ratio hc when water is wet (DC-HC) is 0.5% or more (more preferably 1 to 5%). However, 'drying means the state in which the sample is allowed to stand in the environment of temperature 2 (TC, humidity 65% RH for 24 hours), on the other hand, when wet, it means that the sample is immersed in water at a temperature of 30 ° C for 2 hours. After a short period of time, the crimping rate DC during drying and the crimping rate HC during wetting were measured by the following methods. First, 'Use the frame of the frame l_125m to apply the load: 49/50mN 20 x9x The total count (O.lgfx total denier) and the yarn is wound at a fixed speed, and the number of rolls is made: 10 twists, and the total number of 49/2500mNx20x9x is applied to the strands to form a 2-layer round. (2mgx20x total Danny) was placed in boiling water for 30 minutes, and after the boiling water treatment, it was dried for 30 minutes using a dryer of i〇〇°c. Then, the initial load was applied again and placed at 16 °C. Dry heat in the middle 25 1354041

理5分。在該乾熱處理之後除去初期負重,且在溫度2〇。〇、 濕度65%RH之環境下放置24小時以上後,負載前述初期負 重與98/50mNx20x9x總支數(0.2gfx20x總丹尼)之重負重,以 測量絞紗長L0 ’接著僅除去重負重,以測量除重1分後之絞 5 紗長L1。再者,將該絞紗施加初期負重而浸潰於溫度2〇°c 之水中2小時後取出,且藉由渡紙以〇.69mN/cm2(70mgf/cm2) 之壓力輕輕地拭去水分之後,負載初期負重與重負重,以 測量絞紗長L0’,接著僅除去重負重,以測量除重1分後之 絞紗長L1’。由以上之測量數值利用下述計算式計算出乾燥 10 時之捲縮率(DC)、濕潤時之捲縮率(HC)、及乾燥時與濕潤 時之捲縮率差〇DC-HC)。 乾燥時之捲縮率 DC(%) = ((L0 — L1 )/L0)x 1 〇〇 水濕潤之捲縮率 HC(%) = ((L0,一 L1,)/L0,)χ 1 〇〇 前述濕潤時之複合纖維捲縮率HC係0.5〜10.0%(又以 15 1〜3%為佳)之範圍内為佳。 在此’若乾燥時之複合纖維捲縮率DC低於1.5%時,則 由於濕潤時之捲縮變化量變小,故編織物之透氣性變化量 亦可能變小;相對地’若乾燥時之複合纖維捲縮率DC高於 13%時’則因捲縮過強而難以產生濕潤時之捲縮變化,編 20織物之透氣性變化量亦可能同樣變小。又,若與乾燥時之 複合纖維捲縮率HC之差(DC —HC)低於0.5%時,編織物之 透氣性變化量亦可能變小。 接著’單獨利用前述複合纖維、或是同時使用其他纖 維以編織成編織物後,藉由染色加工等熱處理顯現出前述 26 複合織維之捲縮。 在此’在編織製成編織物時,如前述般,以重量為基 準相對蝙織物總重量為10重量%(以4〇重量%為佳)是重要 的又,編織組織並沒有特別限制,可適當選定前述者。 月1J述染色加工溫度為100〜140°c (又以110〜135°C為 佳)’且該時間為頂溫持續時間之5〜40分的範圍内為佳,且 於如此條件下,藉由編織物經染色加工,前述複合纖維會 因水酯成分與聚醯胺成分之熱收縮差而顯現捲縮。此時, 藉由選定前述聚合物作為聚酯成分與聚醯胺成分,可形成 聚醢胺成分位於内侧之捲縮構造。 在業經染色加工之編織物中一般施以乾熱終凝。此 時,乾熱終凝溫度為120〜2〇〇。0(又以140〜18(TC為佳),時 間則以1〜3分之範圍内為佳。如此一來,乾熱終凝溫度若低 於120C,則容易留下染色加工時產生之皺褶,又,完成品 之尺寸穩定性可能會變差;相對地,該乾熱終凝溫度若高 於200C $色加工時顯現之複合纖維捲縮則可能降低,或 纖維硬化造成質地觸感變硬。 此外,在本發明之編織物中,除了前述加工之外,亦 可適用於附加有_般方法之起毛毯加卫、紫外線遮蔽或抗 菌除臭劑、防蟲劑、夜光劑、再歸反射劑、負離子產 生劑、吸水劑等機能之各種加工。 本發明之編織物係藉由該編織物所含之捲縮複合纖維 的水濕_著降低其捲_,藉此,活㈣高域物透氣 性之特性’可職為如外Π衣服、運_衣服、及内衣 1354041 用衣服等衣服中至少一部份。 本發明衣服係前述本發明之利用水濕潤提高透氣性的 含有捲縮複合纖維之編織物者,其特徵在於其尺寸利用水 濕潤可逆性地擴大,且提高透氣性,並顯示透氣效果。 5 本發明之衣服包含有外衣用衣服、運動用衣服、内衣 用衣服等。 在本發明衣服之較佳實施態樣中,具有尺寸未利用水 濕潤改變之部分、與尺寸利用水濕潤可逆性地擴大(可逆性 地擴大面積)之部分。在該態樣中,由於利用水濕潤之面積 10擴大者為部份性者,故衣服整體尺寸不會過度擴大,且衣 服與穿著者肌膚之間隙亦不會過度地擴大,即,穿著前述 態樣之衣服,且當穿著者出汗時,利用汗水濕潤且尺寸(面 積)增加之部分朝外側膨脹突出,且增加穿著者之肌膚與該 部分之空隙,以達到濕潤部分之透氣性擴大,並且更加提 15 昇透氣效果。 在本發明衣服中,尺寸未利用水濕潤變化部分意指利 用水濕潤產生面積變化率低於5%之部分,又,尺寸利用水 濕潤變化部分意指利用水濕潤產生面積變化率為5 %以上 之部分。又’藉由下列方法測量衣服之部分面積率變化。 20 將編織物在溫度20°C、濕度65%RH之環境下放置24小 時(以下稱為乾燥時)後,裁斷出與編織物相同方向之試料 (經20cmx緯20cm之正方形),且作為乾燥時之面積(cm2)。 另一方面’將該試料浸潰於溫度3(TC之水中5分鐘後(以下 稱為濕潤時。),並拉起該試料,且在拉起後6〇秒以内,將 28 1354041 試料夾於2片濾紙之間,並加重490N/m2(50kgf/m2)之壓力1 分鐘’去除纖維間存有之水分後,測量濕潤試料之面積 (cm2)。又,面積因水濕潤而縮小之情形亦包含於「尺寸未 相對濕潤產生變化」者。 5 面積變化率(%) = ((濕潤時之面積)一(乾燥時之面積))/(乾燥 時之面積)X1005 points. The initial load was removed after the dry heat treatment and was at a temperature of 2 Torr. After being placed in a humidity of 65% RH for more than 24 hours, load the weight of the initial load and the total weight of 98/50mNx20x9x (0.2gfx20x total denier) to measure the skein length L0' and then remove only the heavy load. The length of the twisted yarn 5 is measured after the weight is removed by 1 minute. Further, the skein was subjected to an initial load and immersed in water at a temperature of 2 ° C for 2 hours, and then taken out, and the water was gently wiped off by a transfer paper at a pressure of 6969 mN/cm 2 (70 mgf/cm 2 ). Thereafter, the initial load and heavy load of the load were measured to measure the skein length L0', and then only the heavy load was removed to measure the skein length L1' after the weight was removed by one minute. From the above measured values, the crimping ratio (DC) at the time of drying 10, the crimping ratio (HC) at the time of wetting, and the crimping rate difference (DC-HC) at the time of drying and wetting were calculated by the following calculation formula. Crimping rate DC (%) = ((L0 - L1 ) / L0) x 1 The curling rate of wet water is HC (%) = ((L0, L1,) / L0,) χ 1 〇 It is preferable that the composite fiber crimp ratio HC is 0.5 to 10.0% (more preferably 15 1 to 3%) in the case of the above-mentioned wetting. Here, if the composite fiber crimp ratio DC is less than 1.5% when dry, the amount of change in the curling property of the knitted fabric may become small as the amount of curl change during wetting becomes small; When the crimp ratio of the composite fiber is higher than 13%, it is difficult to produce a curl change when wet because the crimp is too strong, and the change in the gas permeability of the knitted fabric may also be small. Further, if the difference (DC - HC) of the composite fiber crimp ratio HC during drying is less than 0.5%, the amount of change in the gas permeability of the knitted fabric may be small. Then, the conjugate fiber is used alone or after other fibers are used to knit the woven fabric, and then the crimping of the 26-composite weave is revealed by heat treatment such as dyeing. Here, when knitting into a woven fabric, as described above, it is important to use 10% by weight (preferably 4% by weight) based on the total weight of the bat fabric on the basis of weight, and the woven structure is not particularly limited. Appropriately select the aforementioned. The temperature of the dyeing process is 100 to 140 ° C (more preferably 110 to 135 ° C), and the time is preferably in the range of 5 to 40 minutes of the top temperature duration, and under such conditions, When the knitted fabric is dyed, the composite fiber is curled due to a difference in heat shrinkage between the water ester component and the polyamide component. At this time, by selecting the polymer as the polyester component and the polyamide component, a crimped structure in which the polyamide component is located inside can be formed. Dry heat finishing is generally applied to the dyed processed fabric. At this time, the dry heat final setting temperature is 120 to 2 Torr. 0 (again 140~18 (TC is better), the time is preferably in the range of 1~3 minutes. As a result, if the dry heat final condensation temperature is lower than 120C, it is easy to leave the wrinkles generated during dyeing processing. Pleating, in turn, the dimensional stability of the finished product may be deteriorated; in contrast, if the dry heat final setting temperature is higher than 200C, the composite fiber crimping which appears when the color processing is performed may be lowered, or the fiber hardening may cause texture touch change. In addition, in the woven fabric of the present invention, in addition to the foregoing processing, it can also be applied to a velvet blanket with a conventional method, an ultraviolet shielding or an antibacterial deodorant, an insect repellent, a luminous agent, and a return. Various processes such as a reflector, an anion generator, a water absorbing agent, etc. The woven fabric of the present invention reduces the volume _ by the water of the crimped conjugate fiber contained in the woven fabric, thereby, the living (four) high domain The characteristics of the gas permeability of the article are at least a part of the clothes such as clothes, clothes, clothes, and underwear 1354041. The clothes of the present invention are the above-mentioned crimping compound containing water moisturizing and improving gas permeability. Woven fabric, characterized by The size thereof is reversibly expanded by water wetness, and the gas permeability is improved, and the gas permeable effect is exhibited. 5 The clothes of the present invention include clothes for outerwear, clothes for sports, clothes for underwear, etc. In a preferred embodiment of the garment of the present invention In the case where the size is not changed by the wetness of the water, and the size is reversibly expanded by the water (we reversibly enlarge the area), in which the area is enlarged by the wetness of the water 10 is partial. Therefore, the overall size of the clothes will not be excessively enlarged, and the gap between the clothes and the wearer's skin will not be excessively enlarged, that is, wearing the clothes of the foregoing aspect, and when the wearer is sweating, moist and moist with sweat (size) The increased portion expands outward toward the outside, and increases the gap between the wearer's skin and the portion, so as to achieve an increase in the gas permeability of the wet portion, and further increase the gas permeability of 15 liters. In the clothes of the present invention, the size is not changed by water wetting. Partially refers to the use of water to create a portion of the area change rate of less than 5%, and the size of the use of water to wet the change means that the use of water is wet A portion where the area change rate is 5% or more is produced. Further, the change in the area ratio of the clothes is measured by the following method. 20 The woven fabric is left in an environment of a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours (hereinafter referred to as drying). After the time, the sample in the same direction as the braid (cut 20 cm x 20 cm square) was used as the area (cm2) when dry. On the other hand, the sample was immersed in temperature 3 (5 minutes in TC water). After (hereinafter referred to as wet time), and pull up the sample, and within 6 seconds after pulling up, clamp the sample of 13 1354041 between two pieces of filter paper, and increase the pressure of 490N/m2 (50kgf/m2) After 1 minute' removal of the moisture remaining between the fibers, the area of the wet sample (cm2) was measured. Further, the case where the area was reduced by the wetness of the water was also included in the case where "the size did not change relative to the wetness". 5 Area change rate (%) = ((area when wet) 1 (area when dry)) / (area when dry) X100

本發明衣服之前述態樣中,形成為尺寸未藉由水濕潤 變化部分之編織物係可選自於綿、羊毛、麻等有機天然纖 維,聚酯、耐隆、及聚烯烴纖維等有機合成纖維,醋酸纖 1〇 維素纖維等有機半合成纖維,及黏液嫘縈纖維等有機再生 纖維者,且其種類沒有特別限制。 其中,就纖維強度及使用性方面以聚醋纖維者為佳。 聚酯纖維係由二羧酸成分、及二醇成分製成。二羧酸成分 主要使用對苯二甲酸者為佳’且二醇成分主要使用選自於 15 乙二醇、三甲二醇、及四甲二醇中1種以上之稀二醇者為 佳。此外,聚g旨中亦可含有前述二叛酸成分與一醇成分之 外的第3成分。該第3成分可使用陽離子染料可染性陰離子 成分,如鈉磺異苯二甲酸;對苯二甲酸以外之二羧酸’如 異苯二磺酸、萘二羧酸、己二酸、癸二酸;及烯二醇以外 20之二醇化合物,如二乙二醇、具乙二醇、雙酚A、雙酚磺中 之1種以上。 在尺寸未藉由水濕潤變化之纖維中’亦可依需要含有 去光劑(二氧化鈦)、微細孔形成劑(有機磺酸金屬鹽)、著色 防止劑、熱安定劑、阻焰劑(三氧化銻酸)、螢光增白劑、抗 29 1354041 電劑(%酸金屬鹽)、吸濕劑(聚羥基烯 他無機粒子之1種以上。In the above aspect of the garment of the present invention, the woven fabric formed into a portion whose size is not wetted by water may be selected from organic natural fibers such as cotton, wool, hemp, organic synthesis such as polyester, lons, and polyolefin fibers. Organic semi-synthetic fibers such as fibers, cellulose acetate fibers, and organic regenerated fibers such as mucilage fibers are not particularly limited. Among them, polyester fiber is preferred in terms of fiber strength and usability. The polyester fiber is made of a dicarboxylic acid component and a diol component. It is preferred that the dicarboxylic acid component is mainly terephthalic acid, and the diol component is preferably one or more selected from the group consisting of 15 ethylene glycol, trimethyl glycol, and tetramethyl glycol. Further, the third component other than the above-mentioned two retinoid components and the monool component may be contained in the polyg. The third component may use a cationic dye-stainable anion component such as sodium sulfonate; a dicarboxylic acid other than terephthalic acid such as isophthalic acid, naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, bismuth An acid; and a diol compound other than the olefinic diol, such as diethylene glycol, one or more of ethylene glycol, bisphenol A, and bisphenol sulfonate. In the fiber whose size is not changed by water wetting, it may also contain a delustering agent (titanium dioxide), a micropore-forming agent (organic sulfonic acid metal salt), a coloring preventive agent, a thermal stabilizer, and a flame retardant (three-oxidation) as needed. Citrate), a fluorescent whitening agent, an anti-29 1354041 electric agent (% acid metal salt), and a moisture absorbent (one or more kinds of polyhydroxy olefinic inorganic particles).

尺寸未藉由水濕潤變化之纖維型態並沒有特別 可為長纖維(複絲)、短纖維中任—者,又以得到柔軟觸感之 長纖維者為佳。再者,亦可施加—般假撚加1、撚紗、六 織空氣加工’X,纖維纖度雖沒有特別限制,但以得^ 軟觸感之單纖維纖度(M〜3dtex、單絲數純G、總纖度 30〜3_teX者為佳。此外,單纖維之載面形狀並沒有限制二 除了-般圓形截面外,亦可為三角形、扁平形、十字形、 六邊形、或是中空形之截面形狀。The fiber type whose size is not changed by water wetting is not particularly suitable for long fibers (multifilament) or short fibers, and is preferably a long fiber having a soft touch. In addition, it is also possible to apply a general false twist, a crepe, a six-woven air processing 'X, although the fiber fineness is not particularly limited, but the softness of the single fiber fineness (M~3dtex, monofilament number pure) G, the total fineness of 30~3_teX is better. In addition, the shape of the single fiber carrier surface is not limited to two, except for the circular cross section, it may be triangular, flat, cross, hexagonal, or hollow. The cross-sectional shape.

一醇)、抗菌劑、及其 10 尺寸未相對水濕潤變化之前述編織物組織亦沒有特別 限制,為-般者即可。例如,織物之織組織可舉例如平織、 斜紋織、锻紋織等三原組織,變化組織、變化斜紋織等變 化組織’縱雙層組織、橫雙層組織等單面雙層組織,及縱 15絲絨等。又,編物種類可為橫編物亦可為縱編物。橫編电 織可舉較佳例如平編組織 ' 羅紋組織、雙羅紋組織、雙反 面組織、集圈組織、浮線组織、h域、花邊網眼組織、 及添毛組織等;縱編組織則可舉例如單梳梅經平电織、單 、雙梳櫛經⑽織、雙梳雜絨_經平組織、 2〇背面起絨組織、及提花組織等。 在本發明衣服之前述態樣中,尺寸藉由濕潤可逆性地 擴大部分係配置為局部性,且其他部分由尺寸未相對前述 濕潤產生變化之編織物構成。又,尺寸藉由濕潤可逆性地 擴大部分為出汗較多之部位者為佳。例如,編織物部分^ 30 最好配置於第5圖模式地顯示之前面部5及第6圖模式地顯 示之胸部7的編織物部分6與8,及第7圖模式地顯示之側體 部9、背部(未圖示)、袖底部10中至少丨部分,又前述尺寸 利用濕潤可逆性地擴大之編織物面積係以編織物部分其中 5之-的面積1Cm2以上、部分總面積5〇〇〜10000cm2者為佳, 且編織物部分之總計面積比例最好在相對衣服總面積之 5 70/。的範圍内。若該面積比例低於5%時則濕潤時衣服 與肌膚之間的空間體積不會變大’且無法得到充分之透氣 政果;相對地,該面積比例若大於7〇%時,則濕潤時衣服 10 整體尺寸會產生變化。 月J述本土明之編織物係使用於構成尺寸利用濕潤可逆 性地擴大部分之布帛。 在尺寸利用濕潤可逆性地擴大部分之編織物構造中, 其編織_、層數並沒有特別聞,可舉較佳例如:平織、 ’織I文織等織組織,或平針織、雙羅紋針織、圓形 羅、.、文針織、父替集圈針織、添紗編、單梳梅經平組織編、 =梳櫛、㉞平㈣編等編組織,特取以圓編物或網狀編 織物者為佳。 20 者為佳 述P刀之尺寸變化量係以前述面積變化率 10%以上 gdb 、 3〇/°者較佳,且若該面積變化率低於10% 法得==服與肌膚之間的空間體積不會變大,且無 到構点氣效果,x ’可藉由如前述製造方法輕易得 構=尺寸利用水濕潤變化部分之編織物。 务月之編織物亦可施加有吸水劑加玉,且藉由對編 31 1354041 織物施加吸水加 性,又,水加工並时^:可=提昇透氣 編織物上附著有聚一_ 义制可舉例如:在 乙烯酯-聚乙烯乙 乙一酵—Μ酸及其衍生物,或聚 :日t乙婦乙二醇共聚物等吸水加工劑且 合於染液之㈣Γ衫··域hi㈣財加工劑混 且利_二::::=:浸潰於吸水加… 塗布之加玉方法等。凹版•法、網板印花法等利用 10 15 本發明之衣服係使用尺寸未相對前述濕潤產生變化之 織物與尺寸藉由濕潤可逆性地擴大之編織物,且利用-又方法加以縫製。此時,各個編織物巾除了前述染色加 工、吸水加工之外,亦可適用於附加有—般方法之起毛禮 加工、紫韓遮蔽或抗_、除㈣、防錢、夜光劑、 再歸反射劑'負離子產生劑、吸水劑等機能之各種加工。 20 -旦穿著本發明之衣服’在出汗時,藉由濕潤可逆性 地擴大尺寸之部位尺寸會變大,且在運動中該部位會呈現 透氣效果(風箱效果),且可消除因出汗產生之悶熱感、黏腻 感’而得到優良之穿著舒適性。此外,在後述實施例4與比 較例3中’參照第8圖進-步說明本發明衣服之前述效能。 本發明之衣服可相當適用於外衣用衣服、運動用衣 服、内衣用衣服等’又,本發明之衣服中,亦可附屬有鈕 扣等附屬品。 實施例 32 本發明之編織物與衣服係利用後述實施例進一步說 . 明。 在後述實施例與比較例中,進行以下試驗。 <聚酯固有黏度> 5 使用正氣酚作為溶劑’且於溫度35°C下測量。 c聚醯胺固有黏度> 使用間甲酚作為溶劑’且於溫度3〇°c下測量。 " <斷裂強度'斷裂伸度> φ 將纖維試料在保持空氣溫度25°C、濕度60%RH之恆溫 1〇忸濕房間放置一日夜後,試樣長度100mm且裝配於(株) 島津製作所(Shimadzu Corporation)製拉伸試驗機亍>^:/口 > 且以200mm/min之速度伸張,而測量斷裂時之強度 (cN/dtex)、伸度(%),又,以η數5求出其平均值。 <沸水收縮率> 15 藉由JIS L ^^4998.7.15規定之方法測量沸水收縮率 (熱水收縮率)(%),又,以n數3求出其平均值。 φ <複合纖維捲縮率> 首先,使用框周1.125m之搖紗框,施加負重49/50mNx 9x總支數(O.lgfx總丹尼)且以固定速度絡紗,並製成卷數1〇 20圈之小絞’且絞繞該小絞以形成2層輪狀者中施加 49/2500mNx20x9x總支數丹尼)之初期負重而放 入沸水中處理30分,在該沸水處理之後利用1〇(rC2乾燥機 烘乾30分,然後,再度施加初期負重而放入丨的七乾熱中處 理5分。在該乾熱處理之後除去初期負重,且在溫度2〇它、 33 1354041 濕度65%RH之環境下放置24小時以上後,負載前述初期負 重與98/50mNx20x9x總支數(〇.2gfx20x總丹尼)之重負重,以 測量絞紗長L0,接著僅除去重負重,以測量除重1分後之絞 紗長L1。再者’將該絞紗施加初期負重而浸潰於溫度2〇〇c 5 之水中2小時後取出,且利用濾紙利用經5秒 0_69mN/cm2(7〇mgf/cm2)之壓力以輕輕地拭去水分之後,負 載初期負重與重負重,以測量絞紗長L0’,接著僅除去重負 重,以測量除重1分後之絞紗長L1,。依據以上之測量數值 並利用下式計算出乾燥時之捲縮率DC(%)、濕潤時之捲縮 10率HC(%)、乾燥時與濕潤時之捲縮率差(DC-HC)(%),又, 以η數5求出平均值。 乾燥時之捲縮率 DC(%) = ((L0 - L1 )/L0)x 100 水濕潤之捲縮率 HC(%) = ((L0, 一 LI,)/L0’)x 100 <編織物中之複合纖維捲縮率> 15 將編織物在溫度20°C、濕度65%RH之空氣中放置24小 時後’由該編織物裁斷出與編織物同方向之3〇cmx30cm之 小片(η數= 5)。接著,由各個小片取出複合纖維,且在該複 合纖維試料上施加1.76mN/dtex(200mg/de)之負重以測量纖 維長L2,且在除重1分鐘後施加〇.〇丨76mN/dtex(2mg/de)負重 20以測量纖維長L3。然後,將該複合纖維試料浸潰於溫度30 。(:之水中2小時後取出,且在取出後60秒以内將該試料夾於 1對遽紙(大小30cmx30cm)之間,並施加0.69mN/cm2之壓力5 秒後’輕輕地由前述試料拭去水分後,在前述試料上施加 1.76mN/dtex(200mg/de)之負重以測量纖維長L2’,且在除重 34 1354041 1分鐘後,施加〇_〇176mN/dtex(2mg/de)之負重以測量纖維長 L3’。根據前述測量結果,由下式計算出乾燥時之捲縮率 DCF(°/〇)與水濕潤之捲縮率hcf(%)。又,以η數5求出其平均 值〇 5 乾燥時捲縮率 DCF(%) = ((LOf — L1 f)/L0f)x 1 〇〇 吸濕時捲縮率 HCF(%) = ((LOf,一 LI f,)/L0f,)X 1 〇〇 <透氣性> 利用 JIS.L1096-1998.6.27.1A法(弗拉吉型(Frazil-type) 透氣試驗機法)測量乾燥時之透氣性(cc/cm2/s)與濕潤時之 10 透氣性(cc/cm2/s)。但是,乾燥時意指將試料在溫度2〇。〇、 濕度65%RH之環境下放置24小時後的狀態,另一方面,濕 潤時意指將試料浸潰於溫度3(TC的水中2小時後拉起,且在 60秒以内夾於1對渡紙之間(大小50cmX 50cm),並加重 490N/m2(50kgf/m2)之壓力1分鐘,呈去除纖維間存有之水分 15 的狀態,分別測量透氣性(η數=5),並求出其平均。又,由 下式計算出透氣性變化率。 透氣性變化率(%) =((濕潤時之透氣性)一(乾燥時之透氣 性))/(乾燥時之透氣性面積)χ100 <編織物之伸張率> 20 除了將負重變更為l/10(1.47N = 0.15kgf)之外,可利用 與JIS.L1096.8.14_1.B法之相同方法,求出編織物之經方白 與緯方向之伸張率(%)。又,以η數5求出其平均值。 <紗長測量> 首先’將編織物在溫度20°C、濕度65%RH之空氣中放 35 1354041 置24小時後,由該編織物裁斷出30cmx30cm之小片(η數= 5)。接著,由各個小片1支1支地取出複合纖維紗條與其他 纖維紗條,測量複合纖維紗條中之纖維長度A(mm)與其他 纖維紗條中之纖維長度B(mm)。此時,若為非彈性紗則施 5 加1.76mN/dtex(200mg/de)之負重,若為彈性紗則施加 0.0088mN/dtex(lmg/de)之負重加以測量。又,以η數5求出 平均值。 <撥水性> 利用JIS L 1092.6.2(噴霧實驗)測量撥水性。 10 <尺寸變化量> 將編織物在溫度20°C、濕度65%RH之環境下放置24小 時後’裁斷出與編織物相同方向之試料(經2〇cmx緯20cm之 正方形),且作為乾燥時之面積(cm2)。另一方面,將該試料 浸潰於溫度20°C之水中5分鐘後(以下稱為濕潤時^ ),將試 15 料夾於2片濾紙之間,並加重490N/m2(50kgf/m2)之壓力1分 鐘,且去除纖維間存有之水分後,測量試料面積,且作為 濕潤時之面積(cm2)。接著,利用下式定義之面積變化率計 算出尺寸變化量(%)。 面積變化率(%) = ((濕潤時之面積)一(乾燥時之面 2〇積))/(乾燥時之面積)xl〇〇 實施例1 分別以270°C、290。(:熔融固有黏度[7?]為1.3之耐隆 -6 '及固有黏度[77^0.39且共聚合有2.6莫耳%之5-鈉磺異 苯二甲酸的變性聚乙烯酯,並使用特開2〇〇(M44518號公報 36 揭示之並列型複合纖維用紡紗喷嘴(紡紗孔實質上係位於 同一圓周上,並打開間隔(d)且由配置成2個圓弧狀狹縫A及 B構成者,並且紡紗噴孔之該圓弧狀狹縫a的面積SA、狭縫 寬度A,、圓弧狀狹縫B的面積SB、狹縫寬度艮、及圓弧狀 5 狹縫A與B之内周面圍成的面積SC同時滿足下式①〜④。 ① B】<A丨 ② 1.1‘SA/SB$1.8 ③ 0_4g(SA+SB)/SCS10.0 ④ d/A^S.O) 10 分別利用12.7g/分之吐出量,前述聚乙烯酯由狹缝A侧 押出’且前述对隆-6由狹縫B側押出,而形成具有第1圖所 示載面形狀之並列型未延伸複合紗條。當該未延伸紗條冷 卻固化且賦與油劑之後,該紗條利用速度l〇〇〇m/分、溫度 60°C之預熱輥預熱’接著,在該預熱輥與速度3050m/分、 15 加熱至溫度150°C之加熱報之間施加延伸熱處理(延伸倍率 3.05倍)並加以捲取,以製成84dtex/24fil之複合纖維。 所得延伸複合纖維的斷裂拉伸強度為3.4cN/dtex、斷裂 伸長率為40%。又,在該複合纖維施加沸水處理測量捲縮 率時,乾燥時捲縮率DC為3.3%,濕潤時捲縮率HC為1.6%, 2〇 且乾燥時捲縮率DC與濕潤時捲縮率HC之差(DC — HC)為 1_7〇/〇。 僅使用前述複合纖維(未經沸水處理,且未顯現捲縮之 複合纖維無撚紗)’利用28號之雙層圓編機,編製成具有42 緯圈數/2.54cm、35經圈數/2.54cm之編織密度的雙羅紋組織 37 1354041 圓編物。 此外,該圓編物經溫度130°C、維持時間15分之染色加 工使複合纖維之潛在捲縮效能明顯化,此時,以吸水加工 劑(聚乙烯醋-聚乙烯二醇共聚物)相對染液為2ml/l之比例, 5且藉由在染色加工時施加同浴處理,以賦與吸水加工劑至 編物’並在該圓編物上施加溫度160 C、時間1分鐘之乾熱 終凝。 所得編物之單位面積質量為214g/m2、經方向伸張率為 70°/◦、緯方向伸張率為11()%、乾燥時透氣性為90ml/cm2/s、 10濕潤時透氣性為370ml/cm2/s、及透氣性變化率為311%,且 為可使濕潤時透氣性大幅提昇者。又,由該編物取出之複 合纖維中,乾燥時捲縮率DCF為68%、濕潤時捲縮率HCF為 22% ’且乾燥時與濕潤時之捲縮率差(DCf —hcf)為46%。 實施例2 15 利用實施例1中使用之複合纖維及一般聚乙烯酯複絲 紗條(84dtex/30fil) ’且使用與實施例1相同之28號雙層圓編 機,且在該圓編機上1紗條1紗條地交互供紗有複合纖維紗 條與聚乙烯酯複絲紗條’以編製成具有54緯圈數/2.54cm、 34經圈數/2.54cm之編織密度的雙羅紋組織圓編物,並在該 20 圓編物上施加與實施例1相同之染色加工、吸水加工、及乾 熱終凝。 所得編物之單位面積質量為206g/m2、經方向伸張率為 50°/。、緯方向伸張率為11 〇%、乾燥時透氣性為丨5〇ml/cm2/s、 濕潤時透氣性為280ml/cm2/s、及透氣性變化率為87%,且 38 為可使濕潤時透氣性大幅提昇者。又’由該編物取出之複 合纖維中,乾燥時捲縮率DCf為63%、濕润時捲縮率hcf為 20% ’且乾燥時與濕潤時之捲縮率差(DCF —HCF)為43%。 比較例1 5 分別以2<7〇。(:、290。(:熔融固有黏度U]為1.3之耐隆 -6、及固有黏度U ]為0.48且共聚合2.6莫耳%之5-鈉磺異苯 二曱酸的變性聚乙烯酯,並使用實施例1所示之並列型複合 纖維用紡紗噴嘴’且分別利用12.7g/分之吐出量押出,而形 成具有第1圖所示單橫截面形狀之並列型複合纖維,並將其 10 冷卻固化且賦與油劑。又,所得未延伸纖維紗條利用速度 1000m/分、溫度60〇c之預熱輥預熱,接著,在該預熱輥與 速度2700m/分、加熱至溫度i5〇°C之加熱親之間施加延伸熱 處理並加以捲取,以得到84citex/24fil之複合纖維。在該複 合纖維中’斷裂拉伸強度為2.3cN/dtex、斷裂伸長率為 15 41% °又’在該複合纖維施加沸水處理測量捲縮率時,乾 燥時捲縮率DC為1.2%,濕潤時捲縮率HC為3.9%,且乾燥 時捲縮率DC與濕潤時捲縮率HC之差(DC — HC)為一2.7%。 使用前述複合纖維,且編織製成與實施例1相同之圓編 物後’並在該圓編物上施加與實施例1相同之染色加工、吸 20水加工、及乾熱終凝。 所得編物之單位面積質量為170g/m2、經方向伸張率為 52%、緯方向伸張率為102%、乾燥時透氣性為230ml/cm2/s、 濕满時透氣性為160ml/cm2/s、及透氣性變化率為一30%, 且為濕潤時透氣性降低者。又,由該編物取出之複合纖維 39 1354041 中’乾燥時捲縮率DCF為54%、濕潤時捲縮率HCF為65%, 且乾燥時與濕潤時之捲縮率差(DCF —HCF)為一 11%。 實施你丨3The above-mentioned knit structure of the monool), the antibacterial agent, and the 10th dimension which is not wetted with respect to water is also not particularly limited, and may be any. For example, the weaving structure of the fabric may be a three-dimensional structure such as plain weave, twill weave, and woven weave, a changeable structure, a twill weave, and the like, a vertical double-layer structure, a horizontal double-layer structure, and the like, and a vertical double velvet structure. Wait. Moreover, the type of the knitting may be a horizontal knitting or a longitudinal knitting. The horizontal weaving can be preferably, for example, a woven structure, a rib structure, a double rib structure, a double reverse tissue, a tuck organization, a float structure, a h-domain, a lace mesh structure, and a hair-increasing tissue; For example, a single combed flat warp, a single and a double combed warp (10) weave, a double combed pile velvet woven fabric, a 2 〇 back piled structure, and a jacquard weave. In the foregoing aspect of the garment of the present invention, the size is reversibly enlarged by the wetted portion, and the other portion is composed of a braid having a size which does not change with respect to the aforementioned wetting. Further, it is preferable that the size is reversibly enlarged by moistening to a portion which is more sweaty. For example, the knitted fabric portion 30 is preferably disposed in the pattern of Fig. 5 to display the knitted fabric portions 6 and 8 of the chest 7 which are schematically displayed on the front face 5 and the sixth figure, and the side body portion 9 which is schematically shown in Fig. 7. The back (not shown), at least the crotch portion of the sleeve bottom 10, and the aforementioned size of the knit fabric which is reversibly expanded by the wetness is the area of the knit portion of which the area of 5 is more than 1 cm2, and the total area is 5 〇〇. Preferably, 10000 cm2 is preferred, and the total area ratio of the knitted portion is preferably 5 70/% of the total area of the garment. In the range. If the area ratio is less than 5%, the volume of space between the clothes and the skin does not become large when wet' and the sufficient ventilation effect cannot be obtained; relatively, when the area ratio is more than 7〇%, when wet The overall size of the garment 10 will vary. The woven fabric of the local syllabus is used to form a fabric that is expanded in size by wet reversibility. In the knit construction in which the size is expanded reversibly by wetness, the number of layers and the number of layers are not particularly smear, and preferably, for example, plain weave, 'woven I weave, or the like, or jersey or double rib knit. , round Luo, ., Wen Knitting, parental ring knitting, adding yarn knitting, single comb Mei Jingping organization, = comb, 34 flat (four) knitting, etc., specially made with circular or mesh braid It is better. 20 is the size change of the P-knife is better than the above-mentioned area change rate of 10% or more gdb, 3 〇 / °, and if the area change rate is less than 10%, == between the service and the skin The volume of the space does not become large, and there is no effect on the gas, and x ' can be easily formed by the manufacturing method as described above. The weaving of the moon can also be applied with a water absorbing agent and jade, and by applying water absorption to the fabric of 31 1354041, and processing the water at the same time: can improve the adhesion of the woven fabric to the woven fabric. For example, in the vinyl ester-polyethylene ethylene-yield-decanoic acid and its derivatives, or poly: day t-ethylene glycol copolymer and other water-absorbent processing agents and in the dyeing liquid (four) Γ · · · domain hi (four) financial processing Mixing and profiting _ 2::::=: immersed in water absorption plus ... coated jade method. The gravure method, the stencil printing method, and the like are used. The garment of the present invention is a woven fabric which is reversibly expanded by wetting with a size and a size which is not changed by the wetting, and is sewn by a method. In this case, in addition to the aforementioned dyeing processing and water absorbing processing, each of the woven fabrics can also be applied to the pilling processing, the purple ray shielding or the anti- _, the quaternary (four), the anti-money, the luminous agent, and the re-reflection. Various processes of the agent 'negative ion generator, water absorbing agent and the like. 20 - Wearing the clothes of the present invention 'When sweating, the size of the portion which is reversibly enlarged by wetting becomes large, and the part exhibits a breathable effect (window box effect) during exercise, and the elimination can be eliminated. The sultry and sticky feeling of sweat produces excellent wearing comfort. Further, the above-described effects of the clothes of the present invention will be described in the following Example 4 and Comparative Example 3 with reference to Fig. 8. The clothes of the present invention can be suitably applied to garments for outerwear, sportswear, underwear, and the like. Further, in the clothes of the present invention, accessories such as buttons may be attached. Example 32 The woven fabric and the garment of the present invention will be further described by way of examples described later. In the examples and comparative examples described later, the following tests were carried out. <Polyester inherent viscosity> 5 Using n-gas phenol as a solvent' and measuring at a temperature of 35 °C. c Polyimine intrinsic viscosity > Using m-cresol as solvent' and measuring at a temperature of 3 °C. "<breaking strength & rupture elongation> φ After the fiber sample was placed in a constant temperature 1 〇忸 humidity room maintained at an air temperature of 25 ° C and a humidity of 60% RH, the sample length was 100 mm and was assembled at Co., Ltd. Shimadzu Corporation's tensile tester 亍>^:/mouth> and stretched at a speed of 200 mm/min, and measured the strength (cN/dtex) and elongation (%) at break, and The average value is obtained by η 5 . <Boiling water shrinkage rate> 15 The boiling water shrinkage ratio (hot water shrinkage ratio) (%) was measured by the method specified in JIS L ^ 4998.7.15, and the average value was obtained by n number 3. φ <composite fiber crimping rate> First, a weighting frame of 1.125 m per frame is used, a load of 49/50 mNx 9x total count (O.lgfx total denier) is applied and the yarn is wound at a fixed speed, and the number of rolls is made. 1 〇 20 turns of small strands 'and twisted the small strands to form a 2 layer of rounds, the application of 49/2500mNx20x9x total count Danny) initial load, placed in boiling water for 30 minutes, after the boiling water treatment 1 〇 (rC2 dryer is dried for 30 minutes, and then the initial load is applied again and placed in the seven dry heat of the crucible for 5 minutes. After the dry heat treatment, the initial load is removed, and at a temperature of 2 〇, 33 1354041, humidity 65% After being placed in the RH environment for more than 24 hours, the weight of the initial load and the total count of 98/50mNx20x9x (〇.2gfx20x total Danny) are loaded to measure the skein length L0, and then only the heavy load is removed to measure the weight removal. After 1 minute, the skein length L1. In addition, the skein was applied to the water of the temperature 2〇〇c 5 for 2 hours after the initial weight was applied, and taken out by the filter paper for 5 seconds 0_69 mN/cm 2 (7 〇 mgf /cm2) pressure to gently wipe off the moisture, load initial load and heavy load to measure The yarn length L0', and then only the heavy load is removed, to measure the skein length L1 after removing the weight by 1 point. According to the above measured value, the following formula is used to calculate the crimping ratio DC (%) during drying, when wet The crimping rate is HC (%), the difference in crimp ratio between drying and wetness (DC-HC) (%), and the average value is obtained by η 5 . The crimp ratio DC (%) during drying = ((L0 - L1 ) / L0) x 100 Water wet crimp ratio HC (%) = ((L0, -LI,) / L0') x 100 <Composite fiber crimp ratio in the braid > 15 After the woven fabric was allowed to stand in air at a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours, a small piece (n number = 5) of 3 〇 cm x 30 cm in the same direction as the woven fabric was cut out from the woven fabric. The composite fiber was taken out, and a load of 1.76 mN/dtex (200 mg/de) was applied to the composite fiber sample to measure the fiber length L2, and a weight of 〇.〇丨76mN/dtex (2mg/de) was applied after 1 minute of weight removal. 20 to measure the fiber length L3. Then, the composite fiber sample was immersed at a temperature of 30. (: After 2 hours in water, the sample was taken out, and the sample was sandwiched between 1 pair of crepe paper (size 30 cm x 30 cm) within 60 seconds after removal. Between and apply 0. After a pressure of 69 mN/cm2 for 5 seconds, after gently wiping off the moisture from the above sample, a load of 1.76 mN/dtex (200 mg/de) was applied to the above sample to measure the fiber length L2', and in the weight removal 34 1354041 1 After a minute, a load of 〇_〇 176 mN/dtex (2 mg/de) was applied to measure the fiber length L3'. Based on the above measurement results, the crimp ratio DCF (°/〇) at the time of drying and the curling rate hcf (%) of the water wetting were calculated from the following formula. Further, the average value 求出5 is obtained by η 5 and the crimp ratio DCF (%) when dry is ((LOf - L1 f) / L0f) x 1 卷 The shrinkage ratio HCF (%) = (( LOf, a LI f,) / L0f,) X 1 〇〇 <breathability> The drying time is measured by the JIS.L1096-1998.6.27.1A method (Frazil-type gas permeability tester method) Gas permeability (cc/cm2/s) and 10 gas permeability (cc/cm2/s) when wet. However, drying means that the sample is at a temperature of 2 Torr. 〇, humidity 65% RH environment after 24 hours of standing, on the other hand, wet means that the sample is impregnated at temperature 3 (TC water is pulled up after 2 hours, and clamped in 1 pair within 60 seconds Between the papers (size 50cmX 50cm), and the pressure of 490N/m2 (50kgf/m2) is increased for 1 minute, the moisture content between the fibers is removed, and the gas permeability (η = 5) is measured. In addition, the gas permeability change rate is calculated by the following formula: Gas permeability change rate (%) = ((breathability when wet) - (breathability when dry)) / (breathable area when dry) Χ100 <stretching rate of knitted fabric> 20 In addition to changing the load to 1/10 (1.47N = 0.15kgf), the same method as JIS.L1096.8.14_1.B can be used to obtain the knitted fabric. The elongation rate (%) of the white and latitudinal directions is obtained. Further, the average value is obtained by η 5 . <Measurement of yarn length> First, the woven fabric is placed in air at a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH. After placing 35 1354041 for 24 hours, a small piece of 30 cm x 30 cm (n number = 5) was cut from the braid. Then, the composite fiber sliver was taken out from each piece by one piece. Fiber slivers, measuring the fiber length A (mm) in the composite fiber sliver and the fiber length B (mm) in other fiber slivers. At this time, if it is a non-elastic yarn, apply 5 plus 1.76mN/dtex (200mg/ The load of de), if it is an elastic yarn, is measured by applying a load of 0.0088 mN/dtex (lmg/de). Further, the average value is obtained by η 5 . <Water repellency > Using JIS L 1092.6.2 (spray) Experiment) Measurement of water repellency. 10 <Dimensional change amount> After the woven fabric was left in an environment of a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours, the sample in the same direction as the woven fabric was cut out (via 2 〇 cm x latitude) On the other hand, the sample was immersed in water at a temperature of 20 ° C for 5 minutes (hereinafter referred to as wet time ^), and the test material was clamped to 2 Between the pieces of filter paper, and the pressure of 490 N/m2 (50 kgf/m2) was increased for 1 minute, and the moisture remaining between the fibers was removed, and the sample area was measured as the area (cm2) at the time of wetting. Then, the following formula was used. The area change rate is calculated as the dimensional change amount (%). Area change rate (%) = ((area when wet) one (the surface when dry) 2 hoarding)) / (area when drying) x l 〇〇 Example 1 is 270 ° C, 290. (: melt intrinsic viscosity [7?] is 1.3 Nylon-6 ' and intrinsic viscosity [77 ^ 0.39 Further, a denatured polyvinyl ester having 2.6 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is copolymerized, and a spinning nozzle for a side-by-side type composite fiber disclosed in M44518 (36) (spun hole substance is used) The upper system is located on the same circumference, and the interval (d) is opened and is composed of two arcuate slits A and B, and the area SA of the arcuate slit a of the spinning nozzle hole and the slit width A, the area SB of the arcuate slit B, the slit width 艮, and the arc-shaped 5 slits A and the area SC surrounded by the inner peripheral surface of B satisfy the following formulas 1 to 4. 1 B] <A丨2 1.1'SA/SB$1.8 3 0_4g(SA+SB)/SCS10.0 4 d/A^SO) 10 The amount of sputter is 12.7 g/min, and the above polyvinyl ester is slit The A side is pushed out and the above-mentioned pair 6 is pushed out from the side of the slit B to form a side-by-side type unstretched composite yarn having the shape of the surface shown in Fig. 1. After the unstretched sliver is cooled and solidified and the oil is applied, the sliver is preheated by a preheating roll having a speed of 10 μm/min and a temperature of 60 ° C. Next, at the preheating roll and the speed of 3050 m / An extension heat treatment (extension ratio 3.05 times) was applied between the heating reports heated to a temperature of 150 ° C and coiled to prepare a composite fiber of 84 dtex / 24 fil. The obtained stretched composite fiber had a tensile strength at break of 3.4 cN/dtex and a tensile elongation at break of 40%. Further, when the composite fiber was subjected to boiling water treatment to measure the crimp ratio, the crimp ratio DC was 3.3% during drying, and the crimp ratio HC was 1.6% when wet, and the crimp ratio DC and the curl ratio at the time of drying were 2 干燥. The difference in HC (DC - HC) is 1_7 〇 / 〇. Only the above-mentioned composite fiber (composite fiber without twisting water and not crimped) was used. The double-layer circular knitting machine of No. 28 was used to have 42 latitudes/2.54 cm, 35 laps/ Double rib structure of braided density of 2.54 cm 37 1354041 Circular braid. In addition, the circular knitting material is dyed at a temperature of 130 ° C and a holding time of 15 minutes to make the potential crimping performance of the composite fiber obvious. At this time, the water-absorbing processing agent (polyethylene vinegar-polyethylene glycol copolymer) is relatively dyed. The liquid was in a ratio of 2 ml/l, 5 and was subjected to the same bath treatment at the time of dyeing processing to impart a water-absorbent processing agent to the knitted fabric' and a dry heat of 100 C was applied to the circular fabric for 1 minute. The mass per unit area of the obtained knitted fabric was 214 g/m2, the elongation in the warp direction was 70°/◦, the elongation in the weft direction was 11%, the gas permeability during drying was 90 ml/cm2/s, and the gas permeability at 10 was 370 ml/ The cm2/s and the gas permeability change rate are 311%, and the gas permeability can be greatly improved when wet. Further, in the composite fiber taken out from the knitted fabric, the crimping ratio DCF was 68% at the time of drying, the crimping ratio HCF at the time of wetting was 22%', and the crimping ratio (DCf - hcf) at the time of drying and wetting was 46%. . Example 2 15 The composite fiber used in Example 1 and a general polyethylene multifilament yarn (84 dtex/30 fil) were used, and the same 28-gauge double-layer circular knitting machine as in Example 1 was used, and the circular knitting machine was used. The upper yarn of the first yarn sliver 1 has a composite fiber yarn and a polyester multifilament yarn yarn 'to prepare a double rib with a weft density of 54 latitude/2.54 cm, 34 laps/2.54 cm. The circular knitting was organized, and the same dyeing processing, water absorbing processing, and dry heat final setting as in Example 1 were applied to the 20 circular knitting. The mass per unit area of the obtained knitted fabric was 206 g/m2, and the warp direction elongation was 50 °/. The tensile rate in the weft direction is 11%, the gas permeability during drying is 〇5〇ml/cm2/s, the gas permeability during wetting is 280ml/cm2/s, and the gas permeability change rate is 87%, and 38 is wet. When the breathability is greatly improved. Further, in the composite fiber taken out from the knitted fabric, the crimping ratio DCf was 63% during drying, the crimping rate hcf was 20% when wet, and the crimping ratio (DCF-HCF) at the time of drying and wetting was 43. %. Comparative Example 1 5 was 2 < 7 分别, respectively. (:, 290. (: melt intrinsic viscosity U) of 1.3 Nylon-6, and intrinsic viscosity U] of 0.48 and copolymerization of 2.6 mol% of modified sodium phthalate of 5-sodium sulfonate, Using the spinning nozzle for the side-by-side composite fiber shown in Example 1 and extruding with a discharge amount of 12.7 g/min, respectively, a side-by-side type composite fiber having a single cross-sectional shape as shown in Fig. 1 was formed and 10 Cooling and solidifying with oil agent. Further, the obtained unstretched fiber yarn is preheated by a preheating roll with a speed of 1000 m/min and a temperature of 60 〇c, and then heated to temperature at the preheating roll and speed of 2700 m/min. An extension heat treatment was applied between the heating members of i5〇°C and coiled to obtain a composite fiber of 84citex/24fil. In the composite fiber, the tensile strength at break was 2.3 cN/dtex, and the elongation at break was 15 41%. Further, when the composite fiber is subjected to boiling water treatment to measure the crimp ratio, the crimp ratio DC is 1.2% during drying, the crimp ratio HC is 3.9% when wet, and the crimp ratio DC and the curl ratio HC during wetting are dry. The difference (DC - HC) was 1.7%. The foregoing composite fiber was used, and the braiding was made in the same manner as in Example 1. After knitting, 'the same dyeing process, 20 water processing, and dry heat finishing coagulation as in Example 1 were applied to the circular composition. The mass per unit area of the obtained knitted fabric was 170 g/m2, and the warp direction elongation was 52%. The tensile rate in the direction is 102%, the gas permeability during drying is 230 ml/cm 2 /s, the gas permeability at the time of wetness is 160 ml/cm 2 /s, and the gas permeability change rate is 30%, and the gas permeability is lowered when wet. The composite fiber 39 1354041 taken out from the knitted fabric has a crimping rate DCF of 54% during drying, a shrinkage ratio HCF of 65% when wet, and a difference in crimp ratio (DCF-HCF) during drying and wetting. 11%. Implement your 丨3

製成與實施例1記載者相同之並列複合纖維紗條,且將 5該複合纖維紗條供應至一般28號翠可特經編機,並將前述 複合纖維紗條加以滿穿且通至前述編機之後箱,再將捲縮 率20%之一般聚乙烯醋複絲假撚捲縮加工紗(33dtex/36fn) 加以滿穿且通至前述編機之前筘,並編製成雙梳櫛經平組 織0 V夕10-12、7 口 >卜23-10(登錄商標))之編物,及具 10有80緯圈數/2.54cm機上密度之雙梳櫛經平組織編物。 此外’該圓編物經溫度130。(:、維持時間15分之染色加 工使複合纖維之潛在捲縮效能明顯化後,在業經染色之編 物上使用氟樹脂系撥水加工液加以壓吸處理,接著以溫度 100°C烘乾,並施加溫度160°C、時間1分鐘之乾熱終凝。 15 所得編物之單位面積質量為220g/m2、經方向伸張率為 13%、緯方向伸張率為30%、撥水性為5分、乾燥時透氣性 為45ml/cm2/s、濕潤時透氣性為64ml/cm2/s、及透氣性變化 率為42%,且為可使濕潤時透氣性大幅提昇者。又,由該 編物取出之複合纖維中’乾燥時捲縮率DCF為64%、濕潤時 20 捲縮率《(^為32%,且乾燥時與濕潤時之捲縮率差(dcf-HCf)為 32%。 比較例2 與比較例1相同,製成耐隆6/5-鈉確異笨二甲酸共聚合 聚乙烯酯之並列型複合纖維紗條。 40 利用該複合纖維紗條,編製成與實施例3相同之編物’ 且在該編物上施加染色加工、撥水加工'及乾熱終凝。 所得编物之單位面積質量為210g/m2、經方向伸張率為 12%、緯方向伸張率為22。/。、撥水性為5分、乾燥時透氣性 為54ml/cm/s、濕潤時透氣性為41 mi/cm2/s、及透氣性變化 率為一24%,且為濕潤時透氣性降低者。又,由該編物取 出之複合纖維中,乾燥時捲縮率DCF為56%、濕潤時捲縮率 HCF為62%,且乾燥時與濕潤時之捲縮率差(DCf — HCf)為一 6%。 實施例4 分別以270°C ' 29〇〇C熔融固有黏度[7?]為1.3之耐隆 -6、及固有黏度[7?]為0.39且共聚合2.6莫耳%之5_鈉磺異苯 二甲酸的變性聚乙烯酯,並使用實施例丨所示之並列型複合 纖維用紡紗噴嘴,且分別利用12.7g/分之吐出量押出,而形 成並列型複合纖維,並在冷卻固化、賦與油劑之後,將紗 條利用速度1000m/分、溫度6〇t之預熱輥預熱,接著,在 6亥預熱輥與速度3050m/分、加熱至溫度15〇°c之加熱輥之間 %加延伸熱處理並加以捲取,以得到84出以/24出之複合纖 維。在該複合纖維中,斷裂拉伸強度為3 4cN/dtex、斷裂伸 長率為40°/。。又,在該複合纖維施加沸水處理測量捲縮率 時,乾燥時捲縮率DC為3.3%,濕潤時捲縮率Hca〗6%, 且乾燥時捲縮率DC與濕潤時捲縮率之差(DC _ HC)為 1·70/〇 〇 僅使用前述複合纖維(未經沸水處理,且未顯現捲縮之 無撚紗),利用28號之雙層圓編機’編製成具有65緯圈數 /2.54cm ' 37經圈數/2.54cm之織造密度的平針組織圓編物。 此外,該圓編物經溫度130°C、維持時間15分之染色加 工使複合纖維之潛在捲縮效能明顯化’接著,在該圓編物 5 上施加溫度16(TC、時間1分鐘之乾熱終凝。 所得编物(尺寸藉由濕潤可逆性地擴大之編物)中,單位 面積質量為120g/m2、編密度為71緯圈數/2.54cm與61經圈數 /2.54cm、尺寸變化量為21〇/0(縱方向7%、橫方向13%) 另外,利用28號雙層圓編機,且使用聚乙烯酯假撚捲 10 縮加工紗(56dtex/72fil)以編製成具有45緯圈數/2.54cm、41 經圈數/2.54cm之編織密度的雙羅紋組織圓編物,並同樣地 經染色加工後,裁斷縫製該編物(尺寸相對濕潤未變化之編 物),且製成短袖襯衫4。 接著,僅剪去該襯衫4之胸部(縱15cm、橫20cm),且在 15該部位上如第6圖所示地縫製固定前述複合纖維紗條編物 切片於襯衫4之胸部。 實驗者穿著所得襯衫4,且在調整成溫度28°C、濕度 50%的室内,依循後述穿著步驟以進行穿著實驗,並測量 穿著時之衣服内部(肌膚與衣服之間)的濕度。結果如第8圖 2〇 之曲線A所示,即使在運動中,藉由配置於襯衫4胸部之複 合纖維編物片之透氣效果而不悶熱,且運動後亦可藉由迎 風透氣效果以大幅降低悶熱感而感到相當舒適。 穿著步驟: 靜止5分鐘(有風1.5m/s)—慢跑15分鐘(101011/11)4靜止 42 1354041 10分鐘(無風)—靜止20分鐘(有風1.5m/s) 比較例3 實驗者穿著僅由實施例1使用之聚乙烯酯假撚捲縮加 工紗條(56dtex/72fil)製成之襯衫4,且進行與實施例4相同之 5 穿著實驗。結果如第8圖之曲線B所示,在穿著運動中,因 幾乎無法呈現透氣效果故悶熱感強烈,且運動後悶熱感仍 持續很久而有不快感。 產業上利用之可能性A side-by-side composite fiber yarn of the same type as that described in Example 1 was produced, and 5 of the composite fiber yarn was supplied to a general No. 28 Greencoel warp knitting machine, and the composite fiber yarn was fully passed through and passed to the foregoing After the machine is machined, the general polyethylene vinegar multifilament false twisting and processing yarn (33dtex/36fn) with a crimping rate of 20% is fully worn and passed to the previous knitting machine, and is prepared into a double comb. Organize the composition of 0 V eve 10-12, 7 mouth > Bu 23-10 (registered trademark), and the double-bark warp-knitted fabric with 10 latitude and longitude/2.54 cm machine density. In addition, the circular composition is subjected to a temperature of 130. (:, after the dyeing process for 15 minutes, the potential crimping performance of the composite fiber is marked, and the fluororesin water-repellent working fluid is used for the pressure-sensitive processing on the dyed fabric, followed by drying at a temperature of 100 ° C. And applying a dry heat of 160 ° C for 1 minute, the final mass of the finished fabric is 220 g / m 2 , the warp direction stretch rate is 13%, the weft direction stretch rate is 30%, and the water repellency is 5 points. The air permeability during drying is 45 ml/cm 2 /s, the gas permeability at the time of wetting is 64 ml/cm 2 /s, and the gas permeability change rate is 42%, and the gas permeability can be greatly improved when wet. Further, the fabric is taken out by the braid. In the composite fiber, the crimping ratio DCF was 64% during drying and the crimping ratio was 20 when wet ((^ was 32%, and the shrinkage ratio during drying and dampness (dcf-HCf) was 32%. Comparative Example 2) In the same manner as in Comparative Example 1, a side-by-side type composite fiber yarn of a reinforced nylon 6/5-sodium succinimide copolymerized polyvinyl ester was prepared. 40 Using the composite fiber yarn, the same composition as in Example 3 was prepared. ' And apply dyeing processing, water-repellent processing' and dry heat final condensation on the braid. The unit area of the obtained knitted fabric The mass is 210 g/m2, the warp direction stretch rate is 12%, the weft direction stretch rate is 22%, the water repellency is 5 minutes, the air permeability during drying is 54 ml/cm/s, and the gas permeability during wetting is 41 mi/cm2. /s, and the gas permeability change rate is 24%, and the gas permeability is reduced when wet. Further, in the composite fiber taken out from the knitted fabric, the crimping ratio DCF is 56% when dry, and the crimping rate HCF is wet. 62%, and the difference in crimp ratio between drying and wetness (DCf - HCf) is 6%. Example 4 270 ° C '29 〇〇 C melting intrinsic viscosity [7?] is 1.3 Nile - 6. The modified viscosity [7?] is 0.39 and copolymerized 2.6 mol% of the modified polyvinyl ester of 5_sodium sulfonate, and the spinning nozzle for the side-by-side composite fiber shown in Example , is used. And using a discharge amount of 12.7 g / min to form a side-by-side type composite fiber, and after cooling and solidifying and imparting an oil agent, the gauze is preheated by a preheating roll having a speed of 1000 m/min and a temperature of 6 〇t. Next, a heat treatment between the 6-well preheating roll and a heating roll heated at a temperature of 15 ° C and a temperature of 15 ° C was subjected to elongation heat treatment and coiled to obtain 84 out / 24 In the composite fiber, the tensile strength at break is 34 CN/dtex, and the elongation at break is 40° /. Further, when the composite fiber is subjected to boiling water treatment to measure the crimp ratio, the crimp ratio DC during drying is 3.3%, the shrinkage rate Hca is 6% when wet, and the difference between the crimp ratio DC and the shrinkage ratio during wetting (DC _ HC) is 1.70 / 〇〇 only using the aforementioned composite fiber (not treated with boiling water) And the untwisted yarn without curling) was prepared into a flat stitch circular fabric having a weft density of 65 laps/2.54 cm '37 laps/2.54 cm using a double-layer circular knitting machine No. 28. In addition, the circular fabric is dyed at a temperature of 130 ° C and a holding time of 15 minutes to make the potential crimping performance of the composite fiber clear. Then, a temperature of 16 (TC, 1 minute dry heat is applied to the circular fabric 5). Condensation. The obtained fabric (the size is reversibly expanded by wetting), the mass per unit area is 120g/m2, the braiding density is 71 latitudinal number/2.54cm and 61 laps/2.54cm, and the dimensional change is 21 〇 / 0 (7% in the longitudinal direction and 13% in the horizontal direction) In addition, a 28-layer double-layer circular knitting machine was used, and a polyvinyl acetate false twist roll 10 shrink-processed yarn (56 dtex/72 fil) was used to prepare a latitude ring of 45 Number/2.54cm, 41 laps/2.54cm woven double rib weave, and after dyeing, cut the woven (sweet size unchanged) and make a short-sleeved shirt 4. Next, only the chest of the shirt 4 (15 cm in length and 20 cm in width) was cut, and the composite fiber sliver was sliced and fixed on the chest of the shirt 4 as shown in FIG. Wearing the resulting shirt 4, and adjusting it to a temperature of 28 ° C, humidity of 50%, according to The wearing step is followed by a wearing test, and the humidity inside the clothes (between the skin and the clothes) at the time of wearing is measured. The result is as shown in the curve A of FIG. 8 , even in the movement, by being placed on the shirt 4 The breathable effect of the composite fiber fabric on the chest is not sultry, and it can be quite comfortable after the exercise to greatly reduce the stuffiness by the windward ventilation effect. Steps to wear: 5 minutes of static (windy 1.5m/s) - jogging 15 Minutes (101011/11) 4 standstill 42 1354041 10 minutes (no wind) - still 20 minutes (windy 1.5 m / s) Comparative Example 3 The experimenter wears the polyvinyl acetate false twist crimping processing yarn used only in Example 1. A shirt 4 made of (56 dtex/72 fil) was subjected to the same 5 wearing test as in Example 4. As a result, as shown by the curve B of Fig. 8, in the wearing motion, the sultry feeling was strong because the gas permeable effect was hardly exhibited. And the feeling of sultry after exercise still lasts for a long time and there is a sense of discomfort. The possibility of industrial use

本發明之含有捲縮複合纖維之編織物及含有該編織物 10 之本發明的衣服係具有藉由水濕潤增加透氣性,且促進編 織物乾燥,並藉由乾燥減低透氣性、提高恆溫性之特性, 且作為外衣用、運動用、及内衣用衣料與衣服相當有用。 【囷式簡單說明3 第1圖係顯示一個本發明編織物所包含之並列型捲縮 15 複合纖維截面形狀例的截面說明圖。 第2圖係顯示其他本發明編織物所包含之並列型捲縮 複合纖維截面形狀例的截面說明圖。 第3圖係再顯示其他本發明編織物所包含之並列型捲 縮複合纖維截面形狀例的截面說明圖。 20 第4圖係顯示一個本發明所包含之偏心芯鞘型捲縮複 合纖維截面形狀例的截面說明圖。 第5圖係顯示由本發明編織物形成,且利用水濕潤提高 透氣性之複數個部分配置在前面之衣服(襯衫)的正面說明 圖。 43 1354041 第6圖係顯示由本發明編織物形成,且利用水濕潤提高 透氣性之單一部分配置在前胸之衣服(襯衫)的正面說明圖。 第7圖係顯示由本發明編織物形成,且具有利用水濕潤 提高透氣性之袖底部分與側體部分的衣服(襯衫)的正面說 5 明圖。The knitted fabric containing the crimped conjugate fiber of the present invention and the garment of the present invention containing the knitted fabric 10 have moisture permeability by water wetting, and promote drying of the knitted fabric, and reduce air permeability and increase thermostatic property by drying. It is also useful as a garment for outerwear, sports, and underwear. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS Fig. 1 is a cross-sectional explanatory view showing an example of a cross-sectional shape of a side-by-side crimping 15 composite fiber included in the knitted fabric of the present invention. Fig. 2 is a cross-sectional explanatory view showing an example of a cross-sectional shape of a side-by-side crimped composite fiber included in another knitted fabric of the present invention. Fig. 3 is a cross-sectional explanatory view showing an example of a cross-sectional shape of a side-by-side type crimped composite fiber included in another knitted fabric of the present invention. Fig. 4 is a cross-sectional explanatory view showing an example of a cross-sectional shape of an eccentric core-sheath type crimped composite fiber included in the present invention. Fig. 5 is a front elevational view showing a garment (shirt) formed of a knitted fabric of the present invention and having a plurality of portions which are moistened with water to improve the gas permeability. 43 1354041 Fig. 6 is a front explanatory view showing a garment (shirt) which is formed of the knitted fabric of the present invention and which is moistened with water to improve the gas permeability. Fig. 7 is a front view showing a garment (shirt) formed of the knitted fabric of the present invention and having a cuff portion and a side body portion which are moistened with water to improve the gas permeability.

第8圖係顯示本發明(實施例1)之衣服(襯衫)與本發明 -外(比較例1)之衣服(襯衫)穿著於人體,且進行靜止(有風 1.5m/s)—慢跑—靜止(無風狀態)—靜止(有風1.5m/s)之穿著 實驗時,人體皮膚與襯衫間之空隙中的相對濕度變動圖表。 10 【主要元件符號說明】Fig. 8 is a view showing that the clothes (shirts) of the present invention (Example 1) and the clothes (shirts) of the present invention (outer example 1) are worn on the human body, and are stationary (windy 1.5 m/s) - jogging - Static (no wind) - a graph of relative humidity variation in the gap between human skin and shirt during a static (windy 1.5 m/s) wearing test. 10 [Main component symbol description]

1.. .部份 la...中心點 2.. .部份 2a...周面一部份 2b...中心點 4.. .短袖襯衫 5.. .前面部 6.. .編織物部分 7.. .胸部 8.. .編織物部分 9.. .側體部 10.. .袖底部 11.. .編織物部分 441.. . Partial la... Center point 2.. Part 2a... Part of the circumference 2b... Center point 4.. Short-sleeved shirt 5.. Front part 6.. . Knitted part 7... Chest 8.. Knitted part 9.. Side body part 10.. Sleeve bottom 11.. Knitted part 44

Claims (1)

第94133493號申請案申請專利範圍修正本修王曰\ 曰严气4 十、申請專利範圍: 1' 種利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有捲縮複合纖維的編 織物,其係由熱收缩性互異且接合成並列構造或偏心芯 鞘構造之聚酯樹脂成分與聚醯胺樹脂成分構成,並包含 具有藉由熱處理而顯現捲縮之複合纖維的紗條,而前述 編織物所包含之前述捲縮複合纖維含有率為1〇〜1〇〇質 夏%;前述捲縮複合纖維之聚酯樹脂成分具有〇3〇〜〇39 之固有黏度;前述捲縮複合纖維之聚醯胺樹脂成分具有 i.O〜1.4之固有黏度;又,自前述編織物採取試驗用捲縮 複合纖維試料,且將前述複合纖維試料之i部分在溫度 20°c、濕度65%RH之環境下放置24小時而乾燥時,測量 前述捲縮複合纖維的捲縮率DCF(%),並且,將前述複 合纖維試料之另1部分浸潰於溫度3〇t的水中2小時,並 由水中拉起前述試料,在拉起後6〇秒以内,於溫度3〇 °C、濕度90%RH之空氣中將其夾於丨對濾紙之間,並在 前述試料上施加〇.69mN/cm2之壓力5秒後,測量由前述 試料輕輕拭去水分之前述捲縮複合纖維的捲縮率 此時,前述dcf(%)與HCF(°/〇)可滿足下式: (DCf-HCf)^1〇(%) ° 2.如申請專利範圍第1項之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有 捲縮複合纖維的編織物,其中前述聚酯樹脂成分係由變 性聚酯樹脂構成,且該變性聚酯樹脂以酸成分含量為基 準係共聚合有2.0〜4.5莫耳%之5-納確異苯二甲酸。 3’如申請專利範圍第1項之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有 1354041 第94133493號申請案申請專利範圍修正本修正曰期100.4.15 捲縮複合纖維的編織物,其中前述含有前述捲縮複合纖 維之紗條係具有0〜300T/m以下之燃數者》 4. 如申請專利範圍第1項之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有 捲縮複合纖維的編織物,其中前述編織物含有前述捲縮 5 複合纖維、及與該捲縮複合纖維相異之其他纖維。 5. 如申請專利範圍第1項之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有 捲縮複合纖維的編織物,其中前述其他纖維係選自不捲 縮纖維、或具有前述捲縮率差DCF_HCF係小於10%之 纖維。 10 6.如申請專利範圍第1項之利用水濕濶提高透氣性之含有 捲縮複合纖維的編織物,其中當前述含有捲縮複合纖維 之編織物進行JIS.L1096.8.14.1B法所規定之伸縮織物的 伸縮性測量(但是,將附加於試驗編織物實驗片之載重 值變更為1.47N)時,若前述編織物為織物,則其選自經 15 方向及緯方向中之至少1方向的伸縮率為10%以上, 又,若前述编織物為編物,則其選自橫方向與縱方向中 之至少1方向的伸縮率為10%以上。 7. 如申請專利範圍第1項之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有 捲縮複合纖維的編織物,其中前述含有捲縮複合纖維之 20 編織物係具有多層構造,且在其至少1層中含有該層重 量之30〜1〇〇質量%之前述捲縮複合纖維。 8. 如申請專利範圍第4項之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有 捲縮複合纖維的編織物,其中前述編織物係具有圓编組 織之編物,又,該圓編組織之紗線圈係由含有前述捲縮 46 1354041 第94133493號申請案申請專利範圍修正本修正日期100.4.15 複合纖維與前述其他纖維的紗條形成者。 9. 如申請專利範圍第4項之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有 捲縮複合纖維的編織物,其中前述編織物為織物,且前 述含有捲縮複合纖維之紗條係前述捲縮複合纖維與前 5 述其他纖維之混紡紗條,又,前述織物之經線與緯線、 抑或是經線或緯線係利用前述捲縮複合纖維與前述其 他纖維之混紡紗條構成。 10, 如申請專利範圍第4項之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有 捲縮複合纖維的編織物,其中在前述編織物中,由前述 10 捲縮複合纖維構成之紗條與由前述其他纖維構成之紗 條係在選自經方向與緯方向中之至少1方向、或在選自 橫方向與縱方向中之至少1方向上,配置成至少1支1支 相互交錯。 11 ·如申請專利範圍第4項之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有 15 捲縮複合纖維的編織物,其中前述捲縮複合纖維與前述 其他纖維係形成為芯/鞘型複合紗條者,且前述複合紗 條之芯部係由前述複合纖維構成,而鞘部則由前述其他 纖維構成。 12 ·如申請專利範圍第4項之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有 20 捲縮複合纖維的編織物,其中前述其他纖維係選自聚酯 纖維。 13.如申請專利範圍第1項之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有 捲縮複合纖維的編織物,其中該編織物係經吸水劑加工 者0 47 1354041 第94133493號申請案申請專利範圍修正本 修正日期100A15 14. 如申請專利範圍第1項之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有 捲縮複合纖維的編織物,其中該編織物係經施行撥水劑 加工者。 15. 如申請專利範圍第1項之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有 5 捲縮複合纖維的編織物,其中該編織物係經施行染色加 工者。 16 ·如申請專利範圍第1項之利用水濕潤提高透氣性之含有 捲縮複合纖維的編織物,其係將前述編織物之試驗試料 在溫度20 C、漏度65%RH之環境下放置24小時並乾燥而 10 調製成乾燥試料,另外’將前述編織物之試驗試料浸潰 在溫度30°C的水中2小時,再由水中拉起前述試料,且 在拉起後60秒以内,於溫度30°C '濕度9〇%RH之空氣中 將前述試料夾於1對濾紙之間,並將前述試料置於 490N/m2(50kgf/m2)之壓力下1分鐘,輕輕地去除前述試 15 料中的水分而調製成水濕潤試料,並對前述乾燥試料與 前述水濕潤試料進行依據JIS丄1096-1998.6.27.1 A法(弗 拉吉型(Frazil-type)透氣試驗機法)之透氣性測量,由所 得之測量結果藉下式計算出之透氣性變化率為3〇%以 上。 2〇 透氣性變化率(%) = j ^濕潤試料(乾燥試料透氣性)〕 (乾燥試料透氣性) xl0° π. -種衣服’係包含申請專利朗第卜16項怖—項之含 有捲縮複合_之編織物者,域衣服可藉由水濕潤而 48 1354041 第94133493號申請案申請專利範圍修正本修正日期100A15 使尺寸可逆性地擴大使透氣性提高。 18_如申請專利範圍第17項之衣服’其中前述含有捲縮複合 纖維之編織物係形成為該衣服之胺离部、側體部、胸 部、背部及肩部中至少一者。 5 I9.如申請專利範圍第Π項之衣服,其中前述衣服中之由前 述含有捲縮複合纖維的編織物所形成之各部分係具有 lcm2以上的面積。 2〇.如申凊專利範圍第17項之衣服,其中前述含有捲縮複合 纖維之編織物係選自圓編物及網狀粗孔編織物。 10 21.如申晴專利範圍第17項之衣服,其中前述衣服係選自外 衣用衣服、運動用衣服、及内衣用衣服。 «I 49Application No. 94133493, the scope of application for patent modification, Wang Xi, \ 曰 气 4 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 、 And a polyester resin component which is joined to a side-by-side structure or an eccentric core-sheath structure and a polyamide resin component, and includes a yarn having a composite fiber which is crimped by heat treatment, and the aforementioned roll included in the knitted fabric The shrinkage composite fiber content is 1〇1 to 1% of the summer%; the polyester resin component of the crimped composite fiber has an intrinsic viscosity of 〇3〇~〇39; and the polyacetamide resin component of the crimped composite fiber has iO And the intrinsic viscosity of the composite fabric of the test fabric, and the i-part of the composite fiber sample is allowed to stand in an environment of a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours to dry. The crimping ratio DCF (%) of the crimped conjugate fiber was measured, and the other portion of the conjugate fiber sample was immersed in water at a temperature of 3 Torr for 2 hours, and the sample was pulled up from the water, and pulled. After being trapped in the air at a temperature of 3 ° C and a humidity of 90% RH in the next 6 sec., and applying a pressure of 〇.69 mN/cm 2 to the sample for 5 seconds, the measurement was carried out. At this time, the above-mentioned dcf (%) and HCF (°/〇) can satisfy the following formula: (DCf-HCf)^1〇(%) ° 2. A knitted fabric comprising a crimped conjugate fiber which is improved in moisture permeability by water wetting, wherein the polyester resin component is composed of a denatured polyester resin, and the denatured polyester resin is based on an acid component content. The copolymerization has 2.0 to 4.5 mol% of 5-naphthalene isophthalic acid. 3', as claimed in the first paragraph of the patent application, the use of water-wet to improve the gas permeability of the 1354041 application No. 94,133, 493, the application of the patent scope, the amendment, the stipulation of the stipulation of 100.4.15, the woven fabric of the composite fiber, wherein the aforementioned crimping compound The woven yarn of the fiber has a burning number of 0 to 300 T/m or less. 4. The woven fabric containing the crimped conjugate fiber which is improved in water permeability by water wetting, wherein the woven fabric contains the aforementioned roll. The 5 conjugate fiber and other fibers different from the crimped conjugate fiber. 5. The knitted fabric comprising crimped conjugate fibers which utilizes water wetting to improve gas permeability according to claim 1, wherein the other fibers are selected from non-crimped fibers or have a DCF_HCF system of less than 10%. Fiber. 10. The knitted fabric comprising the crimped conjugate fiber using the water wet mash to improve the gas permeability according to the first aspect of the invention, wherein the woven fabric containing the crimped conjugate fiber is subjected to the law specified in JIS.L1096.8.14.1B When the stretchability of the stretch fabric is measured (however, when the load value attached to the test braid test piece is changed to 1.47 N), if the knitted fabric is a woven fabric, it is selected from at least one of the 15 direction and the weft direction. When the knitted fabric is a knitted fabric, the stretch ratio of at least one of the transverse direction and the longitudinal direction is 10% or more. 7. The knitted fabric comprising a crimped conjugate fiber which utilizes water wetting to improve gas permeability according to the first aspect of the invention, wherein the woven fabric comprising the crimped conjugate fiber has a multilayer structure and is contained in at least one layer thereof. The crimped composite fiber of 30 to 1% by mass based on the weight of the layer. 8. The knitted fabric comprising a crimped conjugate fiber which utilizes water wetting to improve gas permeability according to the fourth aspect of the patent application, wherein the woven fabric has a circular braided fabric, and further, the circular knitting yarn of the circular knitting fabric is The invention relates to the invention of the above-mentioned crimping 46 1354041 Patent Application No. 94,133,493, the entire disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference. 9. The knitted fabric comprising a crimped conjugate fiber which utilizes water wetting to improve gas permeability according to claim 4, wherein the woven fabric is a woven fabric, and the yarn containing the crimped conjugate fiber is the crimped conjugate fiber and The blended yarn of the other fibers of the above-mentioned fifth, and the warp and weft of the fabric, or the warp or weft, are composed of the blended yarn of the crimped composite fiber and the other fibers. 10. The knitted fabric comprising a crimped conjugate fiber which is improved in moisture permeability by water wetting according to item 4 of the fourth aspect of the invention, wherein in the woven fabric, the yarn consisting of the ten-coiled composite fiber and the other fiber are formed. The yarn is arranged in at least one of the warp direction and the weft direction, or at least one of the horizontal direction and the longitudinal direction, and is arranged such that at least one of the yarns is interlaced. [11] The woven fabric comprising a 15 crimped composite fiber using water wetting to improve gas permeability according to the fourth aspect of the patent application, wherein the crimped conjugate fiber and the other fiber system are formed into a core/sheath type composite yarn, and The core portion of the composite yarn is composed of the above-mentioned composite fiber, and the sheath portion is composed of the other fibers described above. A knitted fabric comprising 20 crimped composite fibers, which is selected from the group consisting of polyester fibers. 13. The woven fabric comprising a crimped conjugate fiber which utilizes water wetting to improve gas permeability according to the first aspect of the patent application, wherein the woven fabric is subjected to a water absorbing agent processor, and the application scope is amended by the application of the water absorbing agent 0 47 1354041 Date 100A15 14. A knitted fabric comprising a crimped conjugate fiber which utilizes water wetting to improve gas permeability, as in claim 1, wherein the woven fabric is subjected to a water repellent processor. 15. A knitted fabric comprising a 5 crimped composite fiber, which is water-wet and gas-permeable, according to the first aspect of the patent application, wherein the knitted fabric is subjected to a dyeing process. [16] A knitted fabric comprising a crimped conjugate fiber which utilizes water wetting to improve gas permeability according to the first aspect of the patent application, wherein the test sample of the woven fabric is placed in an environment of a temperature of 20 C and a leak of 65% RH. Hour and dry and 10 to prepare a dry sample, and 'the test sample of the aforementioned braid is immersed in water at a temperature of 30 ° C for 2 hours, and then the sample is pulled up from the water, and within 60 seconds after the pulling, at the temperature The sample was sandwiched between a pair of filter papers in an air of 30 ° C 'humidity 9〇% RH, and the sample was placed under a pressure of 490 N/m 2 (50 kgf/m 2 ) for 1 minute, and the above test 15 was gently removed. The water in the material is prepared into a water-wet sample, and the air-wet sample according to the method of JIS丄1096-1998.6.27.1A (Frazil-type gas permeability tester) is subjected to the above-mentioned dry sample and the water-wet sample. The measurement, the gas permeability change rate calculated from the obtained measurement result by the following formula is 3% or more. 2〇Vapor permeability change rate (%) = j ^Wetting sample (dry sample gas permeability)] (Dry sample gas permeability) xl0° π. - A kind of clothes' contains the patented Longdib 16 items For the woven fabric, the woven fabric can be wetted by water. 48 1354041 Application No. 94,133,493 Application No. Patent Revision No. 100A15 This reversibly expands the size to improve the gas permeability. 18_ The garment of claim 17 wherein the woven fabric comprising the crimped composite fiber is formed as at least one of an amine separation portion, a side body portion, a chest portion, a back portion and a shoulder portion of the garment. 5 I9. The garment of the ninth aspect of the invention, wherein the portion of the garment formed by the woven fabric comprising the crimped conjugate fiber has an area of 1 cm 2 or more. 2. The garment according to claim 17, wherein the knitted fabric comprising the crimped composite fiber is selected from the group consisting of a circular knitted fabric and a mesh coarse-woven fabric. 10 21. The garment of claim 17, wherein the garment is selected from the group consisting of garments for outerwear, sportswear, and underwear. «I 49
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JP2003239140A (en) * 2002-02-12 2003-08-27 Teijin Ltd Moisture sensitive crimped conjugated fiber and method for producing the same

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KR20070060097A (en) 2007-06-12
CA2579144C (en) 2013-04-02
EP1803844A1 (en) 2007-07-04
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EP1803844B1 (en) 2018-09-05
EP1803844A4 (en) 2014-05-14
CA2579144A1 (en) 2006-04-06
WO2006035968A1 (en) 2006-04-06
US20080132133A1 (en) 2008-06-05

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