SK3972000A3 - Hair conditioning composition comprising high molecular weight ester oil - Google Patents

Abstract

The hair conditioning composition comprises: 1) a high molecular weight ester oil which is insoluble in water and has a relative molecular weight of at least 800 and is in liquid form at 25 ° C and which is selected from the group consisting of pentacrytritol ester oils of formula (I). trimethylol ester oils of formula (II) and mixtures thereof; 2) a hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant; 3) a high melting compound having a melting point of at least 25 ° C; and 4) an aqueous carrier

Description

Technique Area

The present invention relates to hair conditioning compositions comprising a high molecular weight ester oil. More specifically, the present invention relates to hair conditioning compositions comprising a high molecular weight ester oil, a hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant, and a high melting point compound.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Human hair is stained by its contact with the environment and skin fat secreted by the scalp. Dirty hair makes hair look dirty or greasy and unattractive. Dirty hair requires regular shampooing.

Shampoo cleans the hair by removing excessive soiling and skin fat. However, shampooing can leave hair wet, tangled, and generally untreated. When the hair dries, it often remains in a dry coarse, dull or curly state due to the removal of natural hair oils and other natural conditioning and moisturizing ingredients. Further, the hair after drying may remain with the increased effects of static electricity, which may interfere with combing and result in a condition commonly described as rising hair, or contribute to the undesirable phenomenon of broken ends, especially with long hair.

Various approaches have been developed to alleviate these problems after shampooing. These approaches range from the use of hair conditioner after shampooing, such as products that remain on or are washed out, to hair conditioner attempts to both clean and condition the hair in one product. Although some consumers prefer the ease and comfort of a shampoo that contains conditioners, a significant proportion of consumers prefer more conventional conditioning compositions that are applied to the hair in a step separate from shampooing, usually after shampooing.

The conditioning agents may be in the form of washing products or products remaining on the hair and may be in the form of an emulsion, cream, gel, spray and foam. These consumers who prefer conventional conditioning agents appreciate the relatively higher conditioning effect or the convenience of varying the conditioning level depending on the condition of the hair or part of the hair.

A common method of delivering hair conditioning benefits is through the use of hair conditioning agents such as cationic surfactants and polymers, silicone conditioning agents, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

Cationic surfactants and polymers, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols are known to increase hair shine and provide moisture, softness, and control the static charge of the hair. However, these ingredients may also impart tackiness or grease or an impression of waxiness, particularly when the hair is dried. Silicone conditioning agents are also known to provide conditioning benefits such as smoothness and ease of combing due to the low surface tension of the silicone compounds. However, silicone conditioning agents can cause a feeling of dryness or a curly hair condition, especially when the hair is dry.

According to the foregoing, there remains the object of obtaining hair conditioning compositions that provide improved conditioning benefits, such as when the hair is wet as well as when the hair is dried. Specifically, there is a need to provide long-lasting moisturizing, softness and controllability of the hair when the hair is dry, while not letting it look greasy.

Nothing in the art has all the advantages and benefits of the present invention.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a conditioning composition comprising

(1) a high molecular weight ester oil which is insoluble in water and has a molecular weight of at least 800 and is in liquid form at 25 ° C and which is selected from the group consisting of:

(a) pentaerythritol ester oils of the general formula I,

Ο

CH ₂ O — C — R ²

(I) wherein R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently branched, straight, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl and alkylaryl groups having 1 to 30 carbons, b) trimethylol ester oils of formula II,

_CH2-c R o συ ¹⁴ wherein R ¹¹ is an alkyl group of 1 to 30 carbons and the groups R ^12, R ^13, and

R ¹⁴ are independently branched, straight, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl and alkylaryl groups having 1 to 30 carbons and mixtures thereof,

2) a hydrophilic substituted cationic surfactant,

3) a high melting point compound having a melting point of at least 25 ° C; and

4) an aqueous carrier.

These and other features, aspects, and advantages of the present invention will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art when reading the present disclosure.

While the exact description ends with the claims that specifically disclose and clearly claim the invention, it is believed that the present invention will be better understood from the following description.

All references cited herein are incorporated by reference in their entirety. Citation of any reference is nothing more than an admission relating to any determination of its availability in the preceding sections in relation to the claimed invention.

The term "comprising" here means that additional steps and other ingredients that do not affect the end result may be added. The term includes "consisting of" and "consisting essentially of".

All percentages, parts and ratios are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise indicated. Since all of these weights are related to the ingredients, they are based on the active amount of the ingredient and therefore do not include carriers or by-products that may be included in commercially available materials.

The aspects and embodiments of the present invention disclosed herein have many advantages. For example, the hair conditioning compositions of the present invention provide a long lasting tactile moisturizing perception, a smooth feel, and a control of hair compliance when the hair dries but does not leave an impression of oily hair. The hair conditioning compositions of the present invention are suitable for forms of products that remain on or elute from the hair.

High molecular weight ester oils

The hair conditioning composition of the present invention comprises a high molecular weight ester oil selected from the group consisting of pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethyl ester oils and mixtures thereof. High molecular weight ester oils useful herein are those which are insoluble in water, have a relative molecular weight of at least 800, and are in liquid form at 25 ° C. The term water-insoluble, as used herein, means that the compound is not significantly soluble in water at 25 ° C when the compound is mixed with water at a concentration above 1.0%, preferably above 0.5%, temporarily dispersed to form an unstable colloid in water, then rapidly separated from the water to form two phases.

Here, the high molecular weight ester oil provides conditioning benefits such as moisturizing, softness, and control of hair styling when the hair dries and yet does not leave the hair feeling greasy. It is believed that the water-insoluble oily material is generally able to settle on the hair. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that due to its bulkiness, the high molecular weight ester oil covers the hair surface and, as a result, the high molecular weight ester oil reduces the friction of the hair while imparting smoothness and control of hair conditionability. It is also believed that because it has some hydrophilic groups, the high molecular weight ester oil provides moisturizing even when it is liquid, it does not leave the hair feeling greasy. High molecular weight ester oil is chemically stable under normal conditions of use and storage.

The high molecular weight ester oil is preferably present in the composition in an amount of 0.1 to 20 wt. %, preferably 0.2 to 10 wt. %, more preferably 0.5 to 5 wt. %.

Suitable pentaerythritol ester oils herein are those having the following general formula (I),

(D wherein R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently branched, straight, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl and alkylaryl groups having 1 to 30 carbons. Preferably, R ¹ , R ² , R ^3, and R 4 are ^4, independently, branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl groups having 8 to 22 carbons. More preferably, R ^1, R ^2, R ³ and R ⁴ defined as the molecular weight of the compound is 800 to 1200.

Suitable trimethyl ester oils herein are those having the following formula (II):

ABOUT

CH ₂ O (R ¹²

I ⁰

R ¹ * —CH ₂ —CH ₂ O — C — R ¹³ ρη

CH ₂ O -? - R H wherein R ¹¹ is an alkyl group having 1 to 30 carbons and R ¹² , R ¹³ and R ¹⁴ are independently branched, straight, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl and alkylaryl groups having 1 to 30 carbons. The group R ¹¹ is preferably an ethyl group and the groups R ¹² , R ¹³ and R ¹⁴ are independently branched, straight, saturated or unsaturated alkyl groups having 8 to 22 carbons. More preferably, R ¹¹ , R ¹² , R ¹³ and R ^{14 are} defined such that the molecular weight of the compound is 800 to 1200.

Particularly suitable pentaerythritol ester oils and trimethylol ester oils herein include pentaerythritetraisostearate, pentaerythritetra oleate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, trimethylolpropane trioleate, and mixtures thereof. These compounds are available from Kokyo Alcohol under the trade names KAKPTI, KAKTTI and Shin-nihon Rika under the trade names PTO, ENUJERUBU TP3SO.

Hydrofiine substituted cationic surfactant

The hair conditioning composition of the present invention comprises a hydrophilic substituted cationic surfactant. The hydrophiine-substituted cationic surfactant herein includes those having at least 2 hydrophilic groups wherein at least 1 substituent in the molecule is selected from aromatic etherester, amide or amine groups and at least 1 substituent is selected from alkoxy groups (preferably C 1 to C ₃ alkoxy groups) ), polyoxyalkylene (preferably Ci to C ₃ polyoxyalkylene), alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, and alkylester moieties. The hydrophilic substituted cardboard surfactants herein preferably contain from 2 to 10 nonionic hydrophilic groups.

The hydrophilic substituted cationic surfactant herein provides conditioning benefits such as hair smoothness, especially when the hair is dry. It is believed that by combining a hydrophiine-substituted cardboard surfactant with the above high molecular weight ester oil, a conditioning composition can be obtained that provides an improved conditioning effect when the hair is wet but also dry.

The hydrophilic substituted surfactant is preferably present in the composition in an amount of 0.1 to 20 wt. %, preferably 0.2 to 10 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 5 wt. %.

Suitable hydrophilic substituted cationic surfactants include those having the formulas III-IX below,

(H1) wherein the index n ¹ is 8 to 28, m ¹ + m ² is equal to 2 to 40, the group Z ¹ is a short chain alkyl group, preferably a C 1 to C ₃ alkyl group, more preferably a methyl group or a group (CH ₂₎ CHO) m3H, where m ¹ + m ² + m ³ is up to 60 and the group X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen radicals (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate, alkylsulfate and alkylsulfonate,

R ¹⁰⁶ R ¹⁰⁸ _R 5 - [1, R ₍ c _H ,) -] - R ¹⁰⁹ 2X- (IV)

^{107 107 110 110} wherein the index n ² is 1 to 5, one or more of R ¹⁰⁵ , R ¹⁰⁶ and R ¹⁰⁷ are independently up to C 30 alkyl, the balance being CH 2 CH 2 OH, one or two of R ¹⁰⁸ , R ¹⁰⁹ and R ¹¹⁰ is independently a C 1 to C 30 alkyl group and the remainder are CH ₂ CH ₂ OH and X is a salt-forming anion as defined above,

OH Z? HO It -'- C-N- _(CH2) ⁷ N - (CH,) N (R s · ¹¹² x _(A) n ³ n L ⁴ ''

Z * o Z? about

R ¹ —C — O— (CH ₂ ) —NMCH 3 - O — C — R ¹¹² X ⁿ i?

(VI) wherein, independently of the formulas V and VI, the group Z ² an alkyl group, preferably C 1 to C 3 alkyl, preferably methyl, and Z ³ is a hydroxyalkyl group with a short chain, preferably hydroxymethyl or hydroxyethyl, indexes n ^{3 and} n ⁴ are independently integers from 2 to 4 inclusive, preferably 2 to 3 inclusive, more preferably 2, R ¹¹¹ and R ¹¹² are independently substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon groups, C 12 to C ₂ alkyl or alkenyl groups, and X is a salt-forming anion as defined above,

FROM?

R — nHch ₂ cho> —H JLs Im ⁴

FROM? (VII) wherein R ¹¹³ is a hydrocarbon group, preferably a C 1 to C 3 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl group, the groups Z ⁴ and Z ⁵ are independently short chain hydrocarbon groups, preferably a C ₂ to C ₄ alkyl or alkenyl group a group, more preferably an ethyl group, an index m ⁴ is 2 to 40, preferably 7 to 30, and the group X is a salt-forming anion as defined above,

R ⁴ f f-A ¹ —CH, CHCH ₂ -AX (VIII)

A-Ah wherein R ¹¹⁴ and R ¹¹⁵ are independently C 1 -C 3 alkyl, preferably methyl, Z ⁶ is C 12 -C ₂₂ hydrocarbyl, alkylcarboxy or alkylamido, and A is protein, preferably collagen, keratin, milk protein, silk, soy protein, cereal protein or hydrolyzed forms thereof, and group X is a salt-forming anion as defined above,

116

HOCH ₂ - (CHOH) _{4 -} NH (CH ₂ ) - N - CH ₂ CH ₂ OH X R ¹¹⁷ (IX) wherein n ⁵ is 2 or 3, R ¹¹⁶ and R ¹¹⁷ are independently up to C3 hydrocarbon groups, preferably methyl and X is a salt-forming anion as defined above.

Non-limiting examples of hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants useful in the present invention include materials having the following CTFA designations: quaternium-16, quaternium-26, quaternium-27, quaternium-30, quaternium-33, quaternium-43, quaternium-52, quaternium-53, quaternium-56, quaternium-60, quaternium-61, quaternium-62, quaternium-70, quaternium-71, quaternium-72, quaternium-75, quaternium-76 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-77, quaternium-78, quatemium-79 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed keratin, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed milk protein, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed silk, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed soy protein and quaternium-79 hydrolyzed cereal protein, quaternium-81, quaternium-82, quaternium-82 , quaternium-84 and mixtures thereof.

Highly preferred hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants include the dialkylamidoethylhydroxyethylammonium salt, the dialkyloylethylenediammonium salt, and mixtures thereof, for example, commercially available under the following trade names: VARISOFT 110, VARISOFT 222, VARIQUAT 1215 and VARIQUAT 638 from MACKPRO Chemical, WACKPRO Chemical, MACKPRO NSP, MACKPRO NLW, MACKPRO WWP, MACKPRO NLP, MACKOPRO SLP by Mclntyre, ETHOQUAD 18/25, ETHOQUAD 0 / 12PG, ETHOQUAD C / 25, ETHOQUAD S / 25 ETHODUOAUAD by Akzo and DEHYQUAT SP from ICI Americas.

High melting point compound

The hair conditioning composition of the present invention comprises a high melting compound having a melting point of at least 25 ° C which is selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, hydrocarbons, steroids, and mixtures thereof. It will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that the compounds described in this section of the disclosure may in some cases fit into more than one classification, for example, some fatty alcohol derivatives may be classified as fatty acid derivatives. However, the classification is not intended to be limiting to the particular compound, but is done for convenience of classification and for nomenclature reasons. Further, it is clear to the skilled person that, depending on the number and position of the double bonds and the length and position of the chains, certain compounds with certain desired hydrocarbon atoms may have a melting point of less than 25 ° C. These low melting point compounds are not included in this section. Non-limiting examples of high melting point compounds are found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 5th Edition, 1993, and the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook,

2nd edition, 1992.

These high melting point compounds are believed to cover the hair surface and reduce friction, resulting in hair smoothness and combability.

The high melting point compound is preferably present in the formulation in an amount of 1 to 14 wt. %, preferably 3 to 10 wt.%, more preferably 4 to 8 wt. %.

Suitable fatty alcohols herein are those having 14 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols may be straight or branched chain alcohols and may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Suitable fatty acids herein are those having 10 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids may be straight or branched chain acids and may be saturated or unsaturated. Also included are diacids, triacids and other polybasic acids that meet these requirements. Also included are salts of these fatty acids. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Suitable fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives herein include fatty alcohol alkyl ethers, alkoxy-substituted fatty alcohols, alkoxy-substituted fatty alcohol alkyl ethers, fatty alcohol esters, fatty acid esters with compounds having esterifiable hydroxy groups, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives include materials such as methyl stearyl ether, compounds of the ceteth family, such as ceteth-1 to ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, where the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol groups present. 1 to steareth-10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of stearethalcohol, where the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol groups present, ceteareth-1 to ceteareth-10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetearethalcohol, i. a mixture of fatty alcohols containing predominantly cetyl and stearyl alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol groups present, Ciąża C30 alkyl ethers of the compounds just described ceteth, steareth, and ceteareth, polyoxyethylene behenyl alcohol, ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, myristyl myristate, polyoxyetyléncetyléterstearát, polyoxyetylénstearyltéterstearát, polyoxyetylénlauryléterstearát, ethylene glycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol distearate, trimethylol propane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl distearate.

Suitable hydrocarbons include compounds having at least 20 carbons.

Suitable steroids include compounds such as cholesterol.

Preference is given to compounds having a high melting point consisting of a single compound of high purity. Highly preferred are the individual compounds of pure fatty alcohols selected from the group of pure cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol. By pure is meant herein the compound has a purity of at least 90%, preferably at least 95%. These individual compounds of high purity provide good hair washability when the consumer washes the formulation.

Suitable commercially available high melting compounds include: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol having the trade names of the KONOL series available from Shin Nihon Rika (Osaka, Japan) and the NAA series available from NOF (Tokyo, Japan), pure behenyl alcohol with the trade name 1-DOCOSANOL available from WAKO (Osaka, Japan), various fatty acids with the trade names NEO-FAT available from Azko (Chicago, Illinois, USA), HYSTRENE, available from Witco Corp. (Dublin, Ohio, USA) and DERMA, available from Vevy (Genoa, Italy) and cholesterol under the trade name NIKKOL AGUASOME LA, available from Nikko.

Aqueous carrier

The compositions of the present invention include an aqueous carrier. The amount and type of aqueous carrier is selected according to compatibility with the other ingredients and other desired product characteristics.

Carriers suitable in the present invention include water and aqueous solutions of lower alkyl alcohols and polyalcohols. Suitable lower alkyl alcohols herein are monoalcohols having 1 to 6 carbons, more preferably ethanol and isopropanol. Suitable polyalcohols include propylene glycol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentadiol, glycerin and propanediol.

The aqueous carrier is preferably substantially water. Preferably, deionized water is used. It is also possible to use water from natural sources containing inorganic cations depending on the desired product characteristics. The formulations of the present invention generally contain 20 to 95%, preferably 30 to 92% and more preferably 50 to 90% water.

Tertiary amide-substituted amine and acid

The hair conditioning composition of the present invention may further comprise a tertiary amide-substituted amine having an alkyl group of 12 to 22 carbons.

Here, the tertiary amide-substituted amine also provides hair conditioning benefits such as smoothness, particularly when the hair is dry. It is further contemplated that by combining an amide substituted amine with a hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant and the high molecular weight ester oil mentioned above, a conditioning composition having a layered gel structure can be obtained.

The layered gel structure can be distinguished from spherical crystalline phase structures. Spherical crystalline phase structures by definition include, for example, the randomly surrounding solid crystal phase, the M-phase structure as defined on pages 83-84 of Physicochemistry of Cetyl Alcohol, published by Fragrance Journal Ltd. 1993 and onion-like spherical liquid crystal layers as described in Japanese Kokai (A) S61-286311. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that solid crystals and / or liquid crystals of high melting point compounds held in a spherical phase structure cannot be effectively distributed and deposited on the hair surface. As a result, the high melting point compounds included in the spherical crystalline phase structures contribute less to obtaining conditioning benefits for the hair than those contained in the form included in the layered gel structure.

The tertiary amide-substituted amine is preferably present in the composition in an amount of 0.1 to 20 wt. %, preferably 0.2 to 10 wt. %, more preferably 1 to 5 wt. %.

Here especially suitable tertiary amide substituted amines include: stearamidopropyl, stearamidopropyldietylamín, stearamidoetyldietylamín, stearamidoetyldimetylamín, palmitamidopropyldimetylamín, palmitamidopropyldietylamín, palmitamidoetyldietylamín, palmitamidoetyldimetylamín, behenamidopropyldimetylamín, behenamidopropyldietylamín, behenamidoetyldietylamín, behenamidoetyldimetylamín, arachidamidopropyldimetylamín, arachidamidopropyldietylamín, arachidamidoetyldietylamín, arachidamidoetyldimetylamín, dietylaminoetylstearamid. Also suitable are dimethyl stearamine, soy dimethylamine, soy amine, myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethyl stearylamine, N-substituted tallow propanediamine, ethoxylated (5 moles ethylene oxide) stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine and arachidylbehenylamine. Also suitable herein are those tertiary amide-substituted amines which are described in U.S. Patent 4,275,055 to Nachtigal et al.

These tertiary amide-substituted amines can also be used in combination with acids such as L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, L-glutamic acid hydrochloride, maleic acid acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, citric acid. The tertiary amide-substituted amine is preferably partially neutralized here by any of these acids in a molar ratio of the tertiary amide-substituted amine to acid 1: 0.3 to 1: 2, more preferably 1: 0.4 to 1: 1.

Silicone compound

The hair conditioning composition of the present invention may further comprise a silicone compound. Suitable silicone compounds herein include volatile soluble or non-volatile soluble or insoluble silicone conditioning agents. Solubility means that the silicone compound is miscible with the carrier of the formulation so that it forms part of the same phase. Insolubility is understood to mean that the silicone forms a separate, non-carrier phase, such that it is in the form of an emulsion or suspension of silicone droplets. The silicone compounds herein may be made by any suitable method known in the art, including emulsion polymerization. The silicone compounds may further be included in the present formulation in the form of an emulsion, wherein the emulsion is made by mechanical mixing or in a synthesis step by emulsion polymerization with or without the aid of a surfactant selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

The silicone compounds to be used preferably have a viscosity of 10 ^-3 to 2.m ² · s ^-1 (1000 to 2 000 000 centistokes) at 25 ° C, more preferably 0.001 to 1.8 m ² · s ^-1 (10 000 to 1 000 m 800,000) and even more preferably 0.1 to 1.5 m ² .s ^-1 (100,000 to 1,500,000 centistokes). Viscosity can be measured using a glass capillary viscometer disclosed in the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, July 20, 1970. The high molecular weight silicone compound can be made by emulsion polymerization. Suitable silicone fluids include poly (alkyl siloxanes), poly (arylsiloxanes), poly (alkylarylsiloxanes), poly (ether siloxane) copolymers, and mixtures thereof. Other non-volatile silicone compounds having hair conditioning properties may also be used.

The silicone compound is preferably present in the composition in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt. %, more preferably 0.05 to 10 wt. %.

Silicone compounds herein also include poly (alkyl-) or poly (arylsiloxanes) of the following formula X,

R ¹²³ R ¹²³ R ¹²³ z? —Oj-Si — z? (X)

^{123 123} R ¹²³ R ¹²³ wherein the group R ¹²³ is an alkyl or aryl group and the index p is an integer from 7 to 8000. The group Z ⁸ represents groups which block the ends of the silicone chains. The alkyl or aryl groups substituted at the siloxane chain (R ¹²³ ) or at the ends of the siloxane chains (Z ⁸ ) may have any structure as long as the resulting silicone remains liquid at room temperature, is dispersible, non-irritating or toxic or otherwise harmful when applied to the hair, is compatible with the other ingredients of the formulation, is chemically stable under normal conditions of use and storage, and is able to settle on the hair and condition it. Suitable Z ⁸ groups include hydroxy, methyl, methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, and aryloxy. The two R ¹²³ groups on the silicon atom may represent the same group or different groups. The two R ¹²³ groups preferably represent the same group. Suitable R ¹²³ groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl. Preferred silicone compounds are poly (dimethylsiloxane), poly (diethylsiloxane) and poly (methylphenylsiloxane). Poly (dimethylsiloxane), also known as dimethicone, is particularly preferred. Poly (alkylsiloxanes) which may be used include, for example, poly (dimethylsiloxanes). These silicone compounds are available, for example, from General Electric Company in their Viscasil® and SF 96 series and from Dow Corning in their Dow Corning 200 series.

Poly (alkylarylsiloxane) fluids may also be used and include, for example, poly (methylphenylsiloxanes). These siloxanes are available, for example, from General Electric Company as SF 1075 methylphenyl liquid or from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid.

Highly arylsubstituted silicone compounds, such as a highly phenyl-substituted poly (ethylsilicone) having a refractive index of 1.46 or more, particularly 1.52 or more, are particularly preferred for enhancing the radiant hair characteristics. When these high refractive index silicone compounds are used, they should be mixed with a coating agent such as a surfactant or silicone resin as described below to reduce surface tension and increase the film-forming ability of the material.

Silicone compounds which may be used include, for example, poly (propylene oxide) modified poly (dimethylsiloxane), although ethylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propyylene oxide may also be used. The amount of ethylene oxide and poly (propylene oxide) should be low enough not to interfere with the dispersing characteristics of the silicone. These materials are known as dimethicone copolyols.

Other silicone compounds include amino substituted materials. Suitable alkylamino-substituted silicone compounds include those represented by the following formula XI,

CH,

124

OH + ii — ΟΕ-4-— — O-1 H

L

W ·

NH (XI) _(CH2

NH, q ² where R ¹²⁴ is H, CH ₃ or OH, the indexes p ¹ , p ² , q ^{1 and} q ² are integers which depend on the molecular weight, the average relative molecular weight being approximately 5000 to 10 000. This the polymer is also known as "amodimeticone".

Suitable amino substituted silicone fluids include those which are represented by formula XII, (R ¹²⁵⁾ aG3.a-Si- (OSiG2) P 3 (OSiGb (R ^12S) 2.b) p4 -O-SiG ₃ .a (R ¹²⁵⁾ and (XII) wherein the group G is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, phenyl, OH, a C 1 -C ₃ alkyl group and preferably a methyl group, the symbol a denotes zero or an integer 1 and preferably equals 1, the sum of p ³ + p ⁴ is 1 to 2000 and preferably up to 150 and m ³ denotes the number 0 to 1999, and preferably from 49 to 149 and a p ⁴ denotes an integer of 1 to 2000 and preferably from 1 to 10, R ¹²³ is a monovalent radical of formula C _q 3H _2q 3L, wherein the index q ^{3 is} an integer from 2 to 8 and the group L is selected from the groups

- N (R ¹²⁶ ) CH 2 -CH 2 -N (R ¹²⁶ ) 2

- N (R ¹²⁶ ) ₂

- N (R ¹²⁶ ) ₃ X '

- N (R ¹²⁶ ) CH 2 -CH 2 NR ¹²⁶ H 2 X ', wherein R ^{126 is} selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, a saturated hydrocarbon radical, preferably an alkyl radical containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and X' denotes a halide ion.

A particularly preferred amino substituted silicone corresponding to formula XII is a polymer known as " trimethylsilylamodimethicone, wherein the R ¹²⁴ group is CH ₃ .

Other amino substituted silicone polymers that may be used are represented by Formula XIII,

128

R-CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ -N-R ¹²⁸ Κ12β \ ¹²⁸

128

R 1 -I 1 -O + J 1 -O-J-1-R 1 -R ⁶ -p ⁶ >

ραπ) where R ¹²⁸ denotes a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl or alkenyl radical such as a methyl group, R ¹²⁹ denotes a hydrocarbon radical, preferably a C 1 to C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a C 1 to C ₁₈ and more preferably Cl to _C8 alkylénoxyradikál group, Q * is a halide ion, preferably chloride, and m ⁵ denotes an average statistical value from 2 to 20, preferably 2 to 8 and m ⁶ denotes an average statistical value from 20 to 200 and preferably from 20 to 50th A preferred polymer of this class is available from Union Carbide under the name SILICONE ALE 56.

References describing suitable nonvolatile dispersion silicone compounds include U.S. Pat. No. 2,826,551 to Geen, U.S. Pat. No. 3,964,500, Drakoff, issued June 22, 1976; No. 4,364,837, Pader and GB patent no. Woolston. Silicon Compounds, distributed by Petrarch Systems, Inc, 1984, provides a comprehensive, though not the only list of suitable silicone compounds.

Another non-volatile dispersion silicone which may be particularly suitable is silicone rubber. The term "silicone rubber" as used herein means a polyorganosiloxane material having a viscosity greater than or equal to 1 m ² · s ^-1 (1 000 000 centistokes) at 25 ° C. It is understood that the silicone rubbers described herein may also overlap with the silicone compounds described above. This overlap is not meant to limit any of these materials. Silicone rubbers are described by Petrarch et al., Including U.S. Pat. No. 4,152,416, Spitzer et al. published May 1, 1979 and Noll, Walter, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones, New York, Adacemic Press 1968. Silicone rubbers are also described in General Electric Silicone Rubber Product Data Sheets SE 30, SE 33, SE 54, and SE 76. Silicone rubbers typically have a relative molecular weight greater than 200,000, generally 200,000 to 1,000,000. Particular examples include poly (dimethylsiloxane), copoly (dimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane) copolymers, dimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, and mixtures thereof.

Silicone resins, which are highly crosslinked polymeric siloxane systems, are also suitable. Crosslinking is accomplished by incorporating trifunctional and tetrafunctional silanes into monofunctional or bifunctional silanes, or both, during the production of the silicone resin. As is well known in the art, the degree of crosslinking required to obtain the resulting silicone resin varies according to the particular silane units incorporated into the silicone resin. In general, those silicone materials that have a sufficient level of trifunctional and tetrafunctional siloxane monomer unit and hence a sufficient level of crosslinking to dry to a solid or hard film are considered silicone resins. The ratio of oxygen atoms to silicon atoms is a measure of the level of crosslinking of a particular silicone material. Silicone materials having an oxygen atom to silicon atom ratio of at least 1.1 will generally be silicone resins. The ratio of oxygen to silicon atoms is preferably at least 1.2: 1.0. Silanes used in the production of silicone resins include monomethyl-, dimethyl-, trimethyl-, monophenyl-, dipheyl-, methylphenyl-, monovinyl- and methylvinyichlorosilanes and tetrachlorosilanes, with methylsubstituted silanes being most commonly used. Preferred resins are offered by General Electric as GE SS4230 and SS4267. Commercially available silicone resins are generally supplied in soluble form as low viscosity volatile or nonvolatile silicone fluids. Silicone resins for use herein should be supplied and incorporated into the composition of the present invention in a soluble form as will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that silicone resins can increase hair coverage by other silicone compounds and can significantly increase hair shine through high refractive index.

Other suitable silicone resins are silicone resin powders, such as the material listed under the CTFA designation as polymethylsilsequixane, which is commercially available as Tospearl ™ from Toshiba Silicones.

A method for producing these silicone compounds can be found in the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, second edition, pages 204-308, John Wiley & Sons, inc., 1989.

Silicone materials, and in particular silicone resins, can be conveniently identified by the abbreviated nomenclature system well known to those skilled in the art as MDTQ nomenclature. In this system, silicone is described according to the presence of various siloxane monomer units that form silicone. Briefly, the symbol M denotes the monofunctional unit (CH ₃ ) ₃ SiO 2, 5. D denotes the bifunctional unit (CH ₃ ) 2 SiO, T denotes the trifunctional unit (CH ₃ ) of SiO 1 _15, and Q denotes the tetrafunctional unit of SiO ₂ . Superscripts of unit symbols, e.g. M ', D', T 'and Q' designate substituents different from the methyl group and must be specifically defined for each occurrence thereof. Typical alternative substituents include groups such as vinyl, phenyl, amino, hydroxyl, and the like. The molar ratios of the various units, whether as subscripts for the symbols indicating the total number of each type of unit in the silicone or its diameter, or the specifically designated ratios in combination with the molecular weight, complete the description of the silicone material in the MDTQ system. Higher relative molar amounts of T, Q, T 'and / or Q' to D, D'M and / or M 'in the silicone resin indicate a high level of crosslinking. However, as discussed above, the overall level of crosslinking can also be indicated by the ratio of oxygen to silicon.

Preferred silicone resins for use herein are MQ, MT, MTQ, MQ and MDTA resins. MQ resins are preferred wherein the M: Q ratio is 0.5: 1.0 to 1.5: 1.0 and the average relative molecular weight of the resin is 1000 to 10,000.

Commercially available silicone compounds which are suitable include Dimethicon under the trade name D-13, cetylDimethicone under the trade name DC2502, stearylDimethicone under the trade name DC2503, emulsified poly (dimethylsiloxanes) under the trade names DC 1664 and DC1784, and an alkyl grafted copolymer emulsion silicone. DC2-2845, all available from Dow Corning Corporation and emulsion polymerized Dimeticonol available from Toshiba Silicone, as described in GB application 2 303 857.

Complementary ingredients

The hair conditioning compositions of the present invention may contain a number of different ingredients, which may be selected by one skilled in the art according to the desired characteristics of the final product. Supplementary components include, for example, hydrophobic cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, additional oil compounds, non-ionic polymers, and other additional ingredients.

Hydrophobic cationic surfactants

Suitable hydrophobic cationic surfactants herein are any known to those skilled in the art.

Among the suitable hydrophobic cationic surfactants there are those which correspond to the general formula XIV,

R'01

R ¹⁰ —N — R ¹⁰³ X '(XIV)

R ¹⁰⁴ wherein at least one R ¹⁰¹ , R ¹⁰² , R ¹⁰³ and R ¹⁰⁴ is selected from aliphatic of 8 to 30 carbon atoms or aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkyl amide, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl groups having up to 22 carbon atoms and residual the groups R ¹⁰¹ , R ¹⁰² , R ¹⁰³ and R ¹⁰⁴ are independently selected from an aliphatic group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or aromatic, alkoxy, poloxyalkenyl, alkyl amide, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl groups having up to 22 carbon atoms and X 'is a salt-forming group an anion such as those selected from halogen (e.g., chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate, alkyl sulfate, and alkyl sulfate radicals. Aliphatic groups may contain, in addition to carbon atoms, ether linkages and groups other than amino groups. Long chain aliphatic groups, e.g. those having 12 or more carbons may be saturated or unsaturated. It is preferred that the groups R ¹⁰¹ , R ¹⁰² , R ¹⁰³ and R ^{104 are} independently selected from C 1 to C ₂₂ alkyl groups. Non-limiting examples of suitable hydrophobic cationic surfactants herein are materials having the following CTFA designations: quaternium-8, quaterniun-14, quaternium-18, quaternium-18 metosulfate, quaternium-24, and mixtures thereof.

Among the hydrophobic cationic surfactants of formula XIV, those containing at least one alkyl chain having at least 16 carbons are preferred. Non-limiting examples of these preferred hydrophobic cationic surfactants include behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, available, for example, under the tradename INCROQUAT TMC-80 from Croda, and ECONOL TM22 from Sanyo Kasei, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, available, for example, under the tradename Nik-Chemicals CA-2350 hydrogenated alkyl tallow, dialkyl (14-18) dimethyl ammonium chloride, dimethyl ammonium chloride with a dialkyl tallow, di (hydrogenated tallow) dimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, dicetyldimetylamóniumchlorid, di (behenyl / arachidyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride, dibehenyldimethylammonium chloride, stearyl, stearylpropylénglykolfosfátdimetylamóniumchlorid, strearoylamidopropyl dimetylbenzylamóniumchlorid, stearoylamidopropyldimetyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride and N- (stearoylaminoformylmethyl) pyridine chloride.

Cationic polymers

The hair conditioning compositions of the present invention may comprise one or more cationic polymers. The term polymer, as used herein, will include materials made by either polymerizing one kind of monomer or made from two (i.e., copolymers) or more kinds of monomers.

The cationic polymer is preferably a water-soluble cationic polymer. By cationic, water-soluble polymer is meant a polymer that is sufficiently soluble in water to form a substantially clear solution to the common eye at a concentration of 0.1% in water (distilled or equivalent water) at 25 ° C. The preferred polymer will be sufficiently soluble to form a substantially clear solution at a concentration of 0.5%, more preferably at a concentration of 1.0%.

The cationic polymers herein will generally have an average relative molecular weight of at least 5000, typically at least 10,000 and less than 10,000,000. The relative molecular weight is preferably 100,000 to 2,000,000. The cationic polymers will have general nitrogen containing groups such as are quaternary ammonium or cationic amino groups and mixtures thereof.

The positive charge density is preferably at least 0.1 milliequivalents / g, more preferably at least 1.5 milliequivalents / g, even more preferably at least 1.1 milliequivalents / g, even more preferably at least 1.2 milliequivalents / g. The positive charge density of the cationic polymer can be determined according to the Kjeldahl method. Those skilled in the art will recognize that the charge density of amino-containing polymers may vary depending on the pH and isoelectric point of the amino groups. The charge density should be between the above limits at the pH of the intended use.

Any anionic groups can be used for the cationic polymers as long as the water solubility criterion is met. Suitable counterions include halides (e.g., chloride, bromide, iodide or fluoride, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide), sulfate and methyl sulfate. Other ions may also be used, as this list is not exclusive.

The nitrogen-containing cationic group will generally be present as a substituent on a fraction of all monomeric units of the cationic hair conditioning polymers. Thus, the cationic polymer may include copolymers, terpolymers, and the like. quaternary ammonium or cationic amino-substituted monomer units and other non-cationic units referred to herein as intermediate monomer units. Such polymers are known and varied in the art and can be found in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 3rd Edition, edited by Estrin, Crosley and Haynes, (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, DC, 1982).

Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amino groups or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water-soluble spacer monomers, such as acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl acrylamides, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamides, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl methacrylate, vinyl methacrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl methacrylate. The alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferably have C 1 to C 7 alkyl groups, more preferably C 1 to C ₃ alkyl groups. Other suitable spacer monomers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol (made by hydrolysis of polyvinyl acetate), maleic anhydride, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol.

The cationic amines may be primary, secondary or tertiary amines, depending on the particular species and pH of the formulation. In general, secondary and tertiary amines are preferred, especially tertiary amines.

The amino-substituted vinyl monomers can be polymerized in the form of an amine and then converted to ammonium by quaternization reaction. The amines can also be similarly quaternized after polymer formation. For example, tertiary amine functionalities can be quaternized by reaction with a salt of formula R ¹¹⁸ X, wherein R ¹¹⁸ is a short chain alkyl group, preferably a C 1 to C ₇ alkyl group, more preferably a C 1 to C 3 alkyl group, and X is a salt-forming anion such as as defined above.

Suitable cationic amino and quaternary ammonium monomers include, for example, vinyl compounds substituted with dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl, monoalkylaminoalkylmetakrylátom, trialkylmetakryloxyalkylamóniovou salt, trialkyl salt dialylovými quaternary ammonium salts, and vinyl quaternary ammonium monomers having a cycle comprising a cyclic nitrogen such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidone, for example, alkyl vinyl imidazolium, alkyl vinyl pyridinium, alkyl vinyl pyrrolidone salts. The alkyl portions of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C 1 to C ₃ alkyl, more preferably Ci to C 3 alkyl, more preferably C 1 and C ₂ alkyl groups. Suitable amino substituted vinyl monomers for use herein include dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylamide and dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamide, wherein the alkyl groups are preferably C 1 to C ₇ hydrocarbyl groups, more preferably C 1 to C ₃ alkyl groups.

The cationic polymers herein may include mixtures of monomer units derived from an amino substituted and / or ammonium substituted monomer and / or compatible spacer monomers.

Suitable cationic hair conditioning polymers include, for example, copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and 1-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt (e.g., chloride salt) (industry referenced by Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, CTFA, such as Polyquaternium-16). ), such as those commercially available from BASFF Wyandotte Corp. (Parsippany, NJ, USA) under the trade name LUVIQUAT (e.g. LUVIQUAT FC 370), copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (referred to by the CTFA industry as Polyquaternium-11) such as those commercially available from Gaf Corporation (Wayne, NJ, USA) under the trade name GAFQUAT (e.g., GAFQUAT 755a), cationic polymers containing dially quaternary ammonium groups, including, for example, a homopolymer of dimethyldialylammonium chloride and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldialylammonium in the industry, Polyquaternium 7 and mineral acid salts of aminoalkyl esters of homopolymers and copolymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, as described in U.S. Patent 4,009,256.

Other suitable cationic polymers are amphoteric terpolymers consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and methyl acrylate such as Polyqauternium 47. An example of a suitable commercial material is MERQUAT 2001® (XV), available from Calgon Corp., wherein the ratio n ⁶ : n ⁷ : n ⁸ is 45:10.

(XV)

Other cationic polymers that can be used include polysaccharide polymers such as cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic starch derivatives.

Cationic polysaccharide polymer materials suitable for use herein include those having the formula XVI,

R ¹²⁰

Zr-Of — R — N — R ¹²² ) X (XVI)

A ¹²¹ wherein Z ⁷ is an anhydroglucose residue, such as a starch or cellulose anhydroglucose residue, R ¹¹⁹ is an alkyleneoxyalkylene, poly (oxyalkylene) or hydroxyalkylene group, or a combination, R ¹²⁰ , R ¹²¹ and R ¹²² are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to 18 carbon atoms and the total number of carbon atoms for each cationic group (i.e. the sum of the carbon atoms in the groups R ¹²⁰ , R ¹²¹ and R ¹²² ) is preferably 20 or less; X is as previously described.

Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) in its polymer series JR® and LR® polymer, such as trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxy-reacted hydroxyethylcellulose in industry (CTFA) referred to as Polyquaternium 10. Another type of cationic cellulose includes polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose lauryldimethylammonium substituted epoxide, in industry (CTFA) referred to as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. < tb > (Edison, NJ, USA) under the trade name LM-200® Polymer.

Other cationic polymers that can be used include cationic guar gum derivatives such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, commercially available from Celanese Corp. in its Jaguar R series. Other materials include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers are described in U.S. Patent 3,962,418 and etherified cellulose-starch copolymers described in US Patent 3,958,581.

Particularly suitable cationic polymers herein include Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-47, and mixtures thereof.

Supplementary oily compounds

Suitable complementary oily compounds herein include fatty alcohols and derivatives thereof, fatty acids and derivatives and hydrocarbons thereof. Additive oils suitable herein may be volatile or non-volatile and have a melting point of not more than 25 ° C. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that additional oily compounds may penetrate the hair and modify the hydroxyl bonds of the hair, thereby providing the hair with softness and flexibility. The additional oily compounds of this section differ from the high melting point compounds described above. Non-limiting examples of additional oily compounds are found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 5th Edition, 1993 and the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, 2nd Edition 1992.

Suitable fatty alcohols herein include those having 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols may be straight or branched chain alcohols and may be saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated alcohols. Non-limiting examples of these compounds include oleyl alcohol, palmitooleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, undecanol, octadodecanol, octyldodecanol, octyldecanol, octyl alcohol, caprylalcohol, decyl alcohol and lauryl alcohol.

Suitable fatty acids herein include those having 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids may be straight or branched chain acids and may be saturated or unsaturated. Suitable fatty acids include, for example, oleic acid, linoleic acid, isostearic acid, linolenic acid, ethyllinolenic acid, arachidonic acid, and ricinoleic acid.

Fatty acid derivatives and fatty alcohol derivatives are defined herein to include, for example, fatty alcohol esters, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, fatty alcohol alkyl ethers, alkoxylated fatty alcohol alkyl ethers, and bulky ester oils such as pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, citrate ester oils, glycerate ester oils oils and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty acid derivatives, and derivatives of fatty alcohols include, for example, methyl linoleate, ethyl linoleate, isopropyl linoleate, izodecyloleát, isopropyl oleate, etyloelát, oktyldodecyloleát, oleyl oleate, decyl oleate, butyl oleate, methyl oleate, oktyldodecylstearát, oktyldodecylizostearát, oktyldodecylizopalmitát, oktylizopelargonát, oktylpelargonát, hexylizostearát, isopropyl isostearate and Oleth-2 . Suitable bulky ester oils such as pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethyl ester oils, citrate oils and glyceryl ester oils are those having a relative molecular weight of less than 800, preferably less than 500.

Suitable hydrocarbons herein include straight chain, cyclic and branched chain hydrocarbons, which may be either saturated or unsaturated, provided they have a melting point above 25 ° C. These hydrocarbons have 12 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Also included herein are polymeric hydrocarbons of alkenyl monomers, such as polymers of C ₂ to C 6 alkenyl monomers. These polymers may be straight or branched polymers. Straight chain polymers will typically have a relatively short length with a total number of carbon atoms as described above. The branched chain polymers may have substantially longer chain lengths. The average relative molecular weight of these materials can vary widely, but will typically be up to 500, preferably 200 to 400, and more preferably 300 to 350. Various classes of mineral oils are also suitable herein. Mineral oils are liquid mixtures of hydrocarbons obtained from petroleum. Specific examples of suitable hydrocarbon materials include paraffin oil, mineral oil, dodecane, isododecane, hexadecane, polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof. Preferred for use herein are hydrocarbons selected from the group consisting of mineral oil, poly (α-olefin) oils such as isododecane, isohexadecane, polybutene, polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof.

Commercially available fatty alcohols useful herein include oleyl alcohol with the trade name UNJECOL 90BHR, available from Shin Nihon Rika, various liquid esters with the trade names SCHERCEMOL, available from Scher, and hexyl isostearate with the trade name HIS and isopropyl isostearate having the trade name ZPIS, available from Kokyu Alcohol. Suitable commercially available bulky ester oils include trimethylolpropane tricrylate / tricalpate under the trade name MOBIL ESTER P43 from Mobil Chemical Co. Suitable commercially available hydrocarbons include isododecane, isohexadecane, and isoeicosene under the trade names PERMETHYL 99A, PERMETHYL 1082, available from Presperse (South Plainfield, New Jersey, USA), an isobutene-normal butene copolymer with the trade name INDOPOL H-100, available from Amoco Chemicals (Chicago, Illinois, USA), a mineral oil under the trade name BENOL, available from Witco, isoparaffin under the trade name ISOPAR from Exxon Chemical Co. (Houston, Texax, USA) and polydecene under the trade name PURESYN 6 from Mobil Chemical Co.

H (OCH ₂ CH-) Im. ^x

Nonionic polymers

Suitable nonionic polymers include cellulose derivatives, hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, ethylene oxide polymers, and ethylene oxide / propylene oxide based polymers. Suitable nonionic polymers are cellulose derivatives including methylcellulose under the trade name BENECEL, hydroxyethylcellulose under the trade name NATROSOL, hydroxypropylcellulose under the trade name KLUCEL, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose under the trade name POLYSURF 67, all available from Hercules. Other suitable nonionic polymers are polymers based on ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with the trade names CARBOWAX PEGs, POLYOX WASRs and UCON FLUIDS, all available from Amerchol.

Poly (ethylene glycols)

Poly (alkylene glycols) are characterized by the general formula XVII,

^Γ ΟΗ (XVII) wherein R ²⁰¹ is selected from the group consisting of H, methyl, and mixtures thereof. When the group R ²⁰¹ H, these materials are polymers of ethylene oxide, also known as polyethylene oxides, polyoxyethylenes and polyethylene glycols. When R ^{201 is a} methyl group, these materials are polymers of propylene oxide, known as polypropylene oxides, polyoxypropylenes, and polypropylene glycols. When R ^{201 is a} methyl group, it is understood that there may also be different positional isomers of the resulting polymers.

In the above structure, the index x3 has an average value of 1500 to 25,000, preferably 2500 to 20,000, and more preferably 3500 to 15,000.

Other suitable polymers include polypropylene glycols and mixed polyethylene / polypropylene glycols.

Polyethylene glycol polymers suitable herein are PEG-2M, wherein the group R ²⁰¹ is equal to H and the index x3 has an average value of 2000 (PEG-2M is also known as Polyox WSR® A-10, available from Union Carbide and PEG-2000). ), PEG-5M, wherein the group R ²⁰¹ is equal to H and the index x3 has an average value of 5000 (PEG5M is also known as Polyox WSR® A-35 and Polyox WSR® A-80, both available from Union Carbide and as PEG- 5000 and Polyethylene Glycol 300,000), PEG-7M, wherein the group R ²⁰¹ is equal to H and the index x3 has an average value of 7000 (PEG-7M is also known as Polyox WSR® A-750, available from Union Carbide), PEG- 9M, where R ²⁰¹ is equal to H and the index x3 has an average value of 9000 (PEG-9M) is also known as Polyox WSR® A-3000, available from Union Carbide).

Additional ingredients

The formulations of the present invention may contain additional ingredients which may be selected by those skilled in the art according to the desired characteristics of the finished product and which are suitable to impart a cosmetic or aesthetically more acceptable appearance to the formulation or provide them with additional benefits for use. These additional additive components are generally used in amounts of 0.001 to 10 wt. %, preferably up to 5 wt. % of the preparation.

A wide variety of additional ingredients can be incorporated into the present compositions. These ingredients include other conditioning agents such as hydrolyzed collagen under the trade name Peptein 2000, available from Hormel, vitamin E under the trade name Emix-d, available from Eisai, panthenol, available from Roche, pantenylethyl ether, available from Roche, hydrolyzed keratin, proteins, plant extracts and nourishing agents, hair fixation polymers such as amphoteric fixation polymers, cationic fixation polymers, non-ionic fixation polymers and silicone grafted copolymers, preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methylparaben, propylparabinyl and imide, propylparabinyl and imide, pH adjusters is citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, general salts such as potassium acetate and sodium chloride, coloring agents such as any of FD&C or D&C dyes, hair oxidizing (bleaching) agents such as is peroxide in thanks to peroxyborate and persulfate salts, hair reducing agents such as thioglycolates, perfumes and masking agents such as disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate, UV and infrared imaging and absorption agents such as octylsalicylate, anti-dandruff agents such as zinc pyridintion and optical zinc clearing agents for example, polystyrylstilbenes, triazinestilbenes, hydroxycoumarins, aminocoumarins, triazoles, pyrazolines, oxazoles, pyrenes, porphyrins, imidazoles and mixtures thereof.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The following examples further describe and demonstrate embodiments falling within the scope of the present invention. The examples are given for the purpose of illustration only and are not to be construed as limiting the present invention, since many variations thereof are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. The components are described by chemical or CTFA name or other definition below.

The compositions of the present invention are suitable for wash and hair-retention products and are particularly useful for the manufacture of emulsion, cream, gel, spray or foam products.

Examples 1 to 6 are hair conditioners of the present invention which are particularly preferred for use with hair wash.

preparations

ingredients pr.1 Pr.2 pr.3 An 4 Pr.5 pr.6 Pentaerythritetraisostearate * 1 1.0 - 0.5 - - - Pentaerythritetraoleate * 2 - 1.0 - 0.5 - - Trimethylol propane trioleate * 3 - - 0.5 0.5 1.0 1.0 Trimethylolpropantriisostearate * 4 - - - - - 1.0 Dihydrogenated amidoethyl tallow chain hydroxyethylammonium methosulfate * 5 1.0 2.0 1.5 Distearamidoetylhydroxyetylmónium methosulfate - - 1.0 2.0 1.0 - Cetylalkohoľ 6 4.5 4.5 4.0 4.0 4.5 4.5 Stearyl alcohol 7 2.5 2.5 2.0 2.5 2.5 2.5 Behenylalkohoľ 8 - 1.0 - 1.0 0.5 - Stearamidopropyl * 9 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 L-glutamic acid * 10 0.64 0.64 0.8 0.6 0.64 1.8 Hydroxyethylcellulose * 11 - - - - 0.5 0.1 Poly (oxyethylene) (2000) * 12 0.1 - 0.1 - - - Polyquaternium-10 * 13 - - - - 0.05 0.05

Polyquaternium-7 * 14 - - - 0.05 - - Preservatives 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 benzyl alcohol 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 perfume 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Silicone mixture * 15 2.0 2.5 4.2 2.5 2.5 2.5 Silicone emulsion * 16 - - - 0.5 0.5 0.5 Hydrolyzed collagen * 17 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 Vitamin E * 18 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 Panthenol * 19 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 Pantenyletyléter * 20 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Citric acid * 21 amount necessary to adjust pH 3 to 7 Deionized water up to 100%

Ingredient definition * 1 Pentaerythritetraisostearate: KAK PTI, obtained from Kokyu alcohol.

* 2 Pentaerythritetra oleate: available from Shin-Nihon Rika.

* 3 Trimethylol propane trioleate: Enujerubu TP3SO, obtained from Shin-Nihon Rika.

* 4 Trimethylolpropane triisostearate: KAK TTI, obtained from Kokyu alcohol.

* 5 Dihydrogenated amidoethyl chain of tallow-hydroxyethylmonium metosulfate:

Varisoft 110, obtained from Witco.

* 6 Cetyl alcohol: Konol series, purchased from Shin-Niho Rika.

* 7 Stearyl alcohol: Konol series, purchased from Wako.

* 8 Behenyl alcohol: 1-Docosanol (97%), obtained from Wako.

* 9 Stearamidopropyldimethylamine: Amidoamine MPS, purchased from Nikko.

* 10 L-Glumatic Acid: L-glutamic acid (cosmetic grade) obtained from Ajinomoto.

* 11 Hydroxyethylcellulose: available from Aqualon.

* 12 Poly (oxyethylene) (2000): WSR A-10, obtained from Amerchol.

* 13 Polyquaternium-10: UCARE LR 400 polymer, obtained from Amerchol.

* 14 Polyquaternium-7: Merquat S, purchased from Calgon.

* 15 Silicone mixture: SE76, obtained from GE.

* 16 Silicone emulsion: X65-4829. Obtained from Tosil / GE.

* 17 Hydrolyzed Collagen: Peptein 2000, purchased from Hormel.

* 18 Vitamin E: Emix-d, obtained from Eisai.

* 19 Panthenol: available from Roche.

20 * Pantenylether: available from Roche.

* 21 Citric acid: anhydrous citric acid, obtained from Haarman & Reimer.

Method of production

The formulations of Examples 1 to 6, as shown above, can be prepared by any conventional method well known in the art. Preferably, they are prepared as follows: when polymeric materials such as hydroxyethylcellulose, poly (oxyethylene), Polyquaternium-10 and Polyquaaternium-7 are contained in the composition, they are dispersed in water at room temperature to form a polymer solution. High melting point compounds, a hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant, tertiary amide-substituted amines, and a polymer solution, if present, are mixed and heated to above 70 ° C. The mixture thus obtained is cooled to below 50 ° C and the other ingredients are added with stirring and the mixture is further cooled to 30 ° C.

Or, high melting point compounds, tertiary amide-substituted amines, and polymer solution, if present, are mixed and heated above 70 ° C. The mixture thus obtained is cooled to 60 ° C when a hydrophilically substituted surfactant is added. The final mixture thus obtained is cooled to below 50 ° C and the remaining ingredients are added with stirring and further cooled to 30 ° C.

A three-way mixing cock and / or whipper can be used in each step if the materials need to be dispersed.

The described embodiments of the invention, represented by the preceding examples, have many advantages. For example, they can provide a long-lasting moisturizing effect, softness, and control of hair conditionability when dry, while not leaving the hair feeling greasy.

It is understood that the examples and embodiments described herein are for illustrative purposes only and that various modifications or changes will be proposed by those skilled in the art without departing from its spirit and scope.

Claims (4)

1) 0.1 to 20% high molecular weight ester oil; (1) a high molecular weight ester oil which is insoluble in water and has a molecular weight of at least 800 and is in liquid form at 25 ° C and which is selected from the group consisting of: (a) pentaerythritol ester oils of the general formula I, (I) wherein the groups R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently branched, straight, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl and alkylaryl groups having 1 to 30 carbons, (b) trimethylol ester oils of formula (II), (H) wherein R ¹¹ is an alkyl group having 1 to 30 carbons and R ¹² , R ¹³ and R ¹⁴ are independently branched, straight, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl and alkylaryl groups having 1 to 30 carbons and mixtures thereof, What is claimed is: 1. A hair conditioning composition comprising 2) 0.1 to 20% hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant, The hair conditioning composition of claim 1, wherein the high molecular weight ester oil is selected from the group consisting of pentaerythritol ester oils, wherein the groups R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently branched, straight, saturated or unsaturated alkyl oils. groups having 8 to 22 carbons, from trimethylol ester oils, wherein R ¹¹ is ethyl and R ¹² , R ¹³ and R ¹⁴ are independently branched, straight, saturated or unsaturated alkyl groups having 8 to 22 carbons and mixtures thereof. 2) a hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant, 3) 4 to 8% of a high melting point compound; and The hair conditioning composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of a dialkylamidoethylhydroxyethylammonium salt, a dialkylamidoethyldiammonium salt, a dialkylethylhydroxyethylammonium salt, a dialkoethyldiammonium salt and a mixture thereof. The hair conditioner of claim 1, wherein the high melting point compound is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. The hair conditioning composition according to claim 4, wherein the high melting point compound is present in an amount of up to 4% by weight of the composition. 6. The hair conditioning composition of claim 1, further comprising a tertiary amide-substituted amine having an alkyl group of 12 to 22 carbons. 7. The hair conditioning composition of claim 6, further comprising an acid selected from the group consisting of L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, L-glutamic acid hydrochloride. , tartaric acid, citric acid, and mixtures thereof, wherein the molar ratio of the tertiary amide-substituted amine to the acid is 1: 0.3 to 1: 2. The hair conditioning composition of claim 1, further comprising a silicone compound. A hair conditioning composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises 3) high melting point compounds having a melting point of at least 25 ° C; and 4) an aqueous carrier. 4) water.